Thank you for taking the time to make the video. I would highly recommend safety glasses and ear plugs anytime you are pounding on things. Ask me how I know. Dry ice is readily available at the grocery store for freezing the shaft.
Smart changing the bearings. I dont wait for parts to fail either. Good job👍To ad I had a hell of a time replacing my rear bearings on my 1972 Datsun 510!
Your welcome glad it helped. I saw a couple vids on this but nothing really similar to a more stock/oem diy replacement and leaving it on the car. So I figured.. maybe this will help ppl in the future.
Fantastic instruction. I encourage anyone doing this to invest in a cheap press. Packing the bearings to 50-75% is probably a good idea. Grease needs somewhere to go and the balls generate friction pushing the grease around. The inner hub should have a coating but not packed full.
I have to do this on my '82 Datsun 280zx 5 speed slicktop coupe. As my driver's side rear wheel bearing literally grenaded and ground up causing all kinds of smoke. I barely got my Z home as it looked like it was on fire. lol Anyway I didn't think of getting another rear wheel nut. Do you think I can reuse the old one? Great video and quite in depth!
That pos bearing on the stub axle is the worst. I eventually gave up trying to make it come off using what I had, bought a humongous bearing puller and pressed it off. Thanks for demonstrating how you did it :)
Hah thanks for the comment. Yea it wasn’t fun, and like I said - on the passenger side it stayed in the housing and I just hammered out with a punch. Much easier! But next time I’ll probably buy that bearing thing you put on the press. While I don’t have a press - I know someone who does. I’m just always in a hurry though 😁
Lot of folks put that outer bearing on the stub axle (same as you) then end up beating into place. IMHO this is incorrect as the pounding into place will stress the balls. On mine I press in the bearings (both inner and outer) into the housing using the outer races, then heat up the entire assembly and freeze the stub axle, this lets it just drop into place with minimal stress to the balls. there is no mention in the FSM on the correct procedure, and I suppose the fit is light enough that it does not matter. Its just the way I learned how to install bearings.
Also the torque spec is in between 180-240 the reason is for the preload set on the bearing the preload needs to be around 18-22 inch pounds simply guessing what it should be is not correct. bearing preload is very important. It’s basically like setting a differential pinion needs to be set correctly or else it will fail prematurely
When I pulled the bearing out of the package it said real quietly, but quickly, “Give me all the torque”. Kinda seductive like. Kidding aside, it does mention this in the manual. The preload. So for anyone reading. Torque yours to 180 first, then check preload. Keep upping the torque till preload is where you like it. I didn’t. Likely many don’t. Prolly fine.
Nice info! I'll be doing this when I rebuild mine. I'm doing the z31 turbo axle swap on mine too. What LSD did you go for? Please make a video on the LSD install! Would be a huge help. I went for the z31 3.9 diff. Great work as always 👍👍
I didn’t. Figured it’s been a long time since they first came out they may have fixed it. And I reached out to the company and they said I will be fine and that those were rumors created by competitors. Not saying I believe that... but I ended up not opening it up
@@StewartMotoring speak to Jessie from boost Shack.. he's done the install and the washer mod. For the sake of a few washers.. I'd be installing them dude. Piece of mind.
You can grease it or use some oil just to help it slide on. I had grease on it already but it was frozen. It’s such a tight fit tho I doubt any grease or oil stays between the bearing and the shaft. And I’m not sure you want any between the 2. You sure don’t want that inner race of the bearing spinning because you lubed it up too much. So no need to go out of your way to make sure it’s lubed excessively. Just my opinion.
There just isnt any good method to install these without damaging the bearings😮. I wish these were rollerbearings, that way you would have some way to install them without transferring the forces through the balls. And also it would give you the chance to "service" them like changing grease and tightening as needed.
Yuup, I had to purchase that torque wrench to do it. My original one only went to 150. From what I see in the manual - rear axle bearing lock nut 181 to 239 ft lbs. So 200.. nice easy number lol. Could be higher tho.
Pay attention to what this man is using for bearings. Timken are the ONLY WAY to go! They are a true top quality Japanese bearing. Dont go cheap!
Really, really well done video, clean explanations and great filming of each step.
Thank you 👍
Thank you for taking the time to make the video. I would highly recommend safety glasses and ear plugs anytime you are pounding on things. Ask me how I know. Dry ice is readily available at the grocery store for freezing the shaft.
Seriously thank you for this. The level of detail was so so helpful.
Smart changing the bearings. I dont wait for parts to fail either. Good job👍To ad I had a hell of a time replacing my rear bearings on my 1972 Datsun 510!
Wow you have come a long way, a long way from the start.
Great to see you still at it GREAT!
This is a lifesaver - so helpful and hard to find this level of detail. Appreciate it man
Your welcome glad it helped. I saw a couple vids on this but nothing really similar to a more stock/oem diy replacement and leaving it on the car. So I figured.. maybe this will help ppl in the future.
Fantastic instruction. I encourage anyone doing this to invest in a cheap press. Packing the bearings to 50-75% is probably a good idea. Grease needs somewhere to go and the balls generate friction pushing the grease around. The inner hub should have a coating but not packed full.
I have to do this on my '82 Datsun 280zx 5 speed slicktop coupe. As my driver's side rear wheel bearing literally grenaded and ground up causing all kinds of smoke. I barely got my Z home as it looked like it was on fire. lol Anyway I didn't think of getting another rear wheel nut. Do you think I can reuse the old one? Great video and quite in depth!
Great video dude. Really appreciate the insight on how to properly get the job done
That pos bearing on the stub axle is the worst. I eventually gave up trying to make it come off using what I had, bought a humongous bearing puller and pressed it off. Thanks for demonstrating how you did it :)
Hah thanks for the comment. Yea it wasn’t fun, and like I said - on the passenger side it stayed in the housing and I just hammered out with a punch. Much easier! But next time I’ll probably buy that bearing thing you put on the press. While I don’t have a press - I know someone who does. I’m just always in a hurry though 😁
You can cut the bearing off or cut a slot then hit it with a chisel to split the race. Get an air hammer Stewy, very useful.
Nice vid, very informative. Left me hoping my bearings are ok! Now I know what to do if they aren’t. Thanks
i made the same mistake with hammering the bolt and messing up the threads, I found that if you just regrove the threads with a file it works perfect
Do you know if the little copper looking washers are required? Looks like there were some on mine in between the inner bearing and seal.
After fighting the stub axle for hours I finally pulled out the Mini Ductor and it came out with one pull of the slide hammer 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️
Lot of folks put that outer bearing on the stub axle (same as you) then end up beating into place. IMHO this is incorrect as the pounding into place will stress the balls. On mine I press in the bearings (both inner and outer) into the housing using the outer races, then heat up the entire assembly and freeze the stub axle, this lets it just drop into place with minimal stress to the balls. there is no mention in the FSM on the correct procedure, and I suppose the fit is light enough that it does not matter. Its just the way I learned how to install bearings.
Hi Dave, if I can ask, how did you heat up the assembly?
Use a hot plate but be carefull not to ruin the red rubber seal!@@jason5031
Ya there is no need to cut the nut impact will take it off with min damage
Metal to metal to re install the bearing is the correct way. Don't use the wood. Make sure the metal pipe is squarely to the inner race.
Also the torque spec is in between 180-240 the reason is for the preload set on the bearing the preload needs to be around 18-22 inch pounds simply guessing what it should be is not correct. bearing preload is very important. It’s basically like setting a differential pinion needs to be set correctly or else it will fail prematurely
When I pulled the bearing out of the package it said real quietly, but quickly, “Give me all the torque”. Kinda seductive like.
Kidding aside, it does mention this in the manual. The preload. So for anyone reading. Torque yours to 180 first, then check preload. Keep upping the torque till preload is where you like it. I didn’t. Likely many don’t. Prolly fine.
Nice job. Nice video. Thanks.
Can you post the link of your flange adapters?
Well done!
Thanks for the vid!
Question… did you happen to have a copper washer?
Mine comes with it and sorta forgot where it went.
Thank you !
Ummmm not that I remember. But I do tend to forget.
Came for the same reason, forgot aswell I'm guessing it goes on before the flange
Nice info! I'll be doing this when I rebuild mine. I'm doing the z31 turbo axle swap on mine too. What LSD did you go for? Please make a video on the LSD install! Would be a huge help. I went for the z31 3.9 diff. Great work as always 👍👍
Yep I’ll cover it pretty good for someone to be able to diy. I went with obx lsd from eBay for the z31
@@StewartMotoring awesome!! So exactly what I'll be doing then I guess. Did you get those special washers that are needed also?
I didn’t. Figured it’s been a long time since they first came out they may have fixed it. And I reached out to the company and they said I will be fine and that those were rumors created by competitors. Not saying I believe that... but I ended up not opening it up
@@StewartMotoring speak to Jessie from boost Shack.. he's done the install and the washer mod. For the sake of a few washers.. I'd be installing them dude. Piece of mind.
Did he break his washers? Do you know anyone who did?
What size is the large nut holding the axle?
The nut is 27mm.
no need for cutting disc , just did mine and just hit it with the impact.
I should have tried that first 🥲
So you don’t need to grease the stub when hammering in the outer bearing? 14:35
You can grease it or use some oil just to help it slide on. I had grease on it already but it was frozen. It’s such a tight fit tho I doubt any grease or oil stays between the bearing and the shaft. And I’m not sure you want any between the 2. You sure don’t want that inner race of the bearing spinning because you lubed it up too much. So no need to go out of your way to make sure it’s lubed excessively. Just my opinion.
Thank you!
There just isnt any good method to install these without damaging the bearings😮. I wish these were rollerbearings, that way you would have some way to install them without transferring the forces through the balls. And also it would give you the chance to "service" them like changing grease and tightening as needed.
200ft lbs.???
Yuup, I had to purchase that torque wrench to do it. My original one only went to 150. From what I see in the manual - rear axle bearing lock nut 181 to 239 ft lbs. So 200.. nice easy number lol. Could be higher tho.