In this video, we take a look at the new Arken Optics EP5 7-35X56 and use it as an important talking point that I don't think gets brought up enough and that is, is there such thing as having "too much" magnification on your rifle scope? Hopefully this video gives you insight you maybe haven't considered before. In any case, this new EP5 is amazing at any price but you can check it out here and save $200 using code "texasplinking" at checkout: bit.ly/3Tvg4vt (That code works to save you the most on any product on Arken's site) A lot of yall were asking about the rear stock bag. Here’s a link for it: amzn.to/3Mwtz9X
@TexasPlinking what do you think about the little nub on the bottom of the optic. Is that where they shoot in the gas? Does it get in the way on low rings or with mounts?
A reason for loading by hand instead of the mag is because some guys don’t seat their bullets all the way down and don’t crimp the bullet. Adjusting the bullet further forward can give you better accuracy by positioning it a certain distance from the rifling. This gives it a certain amount of thousandths jump to the rifling. And sometimes it lengthens the entire round to much to fit into the magazine. And if fed from the magazine can move the bullet placement within the case.
there might not be too much magnification but there is certainly too much weight and this scope weighs 50 ounces in a mount ...thats 3 pounds at the highest point
You get more shimmer with high magnification. Everything has to do with light and shadow and the position of the sun and the time of day which way the wind is blowing Because that will effect your target in the shimmer. If it is late in the day & the temp is dropping in Deep South Texas from a 100 who knows what temp and your looking at over a mile with the sun at your back at a 2"x2" survey hub and he drives it into the ground where you tell um Then he places the tack on the hub the tack is an 1/8" and you say go left 2 hundredths and he says you can see that? As if I was standing right next to you buddy I reply. It also has to do with air quality and dust particles and pollen and parts per million stuff like that. We used to do the same thing at West Ave Rifle Range in the summer as kids hot as hell no clients no range guy to be found anywhere nothing but grasshoppers and a lot of shimmer. We couldn't shoot the paper that cost money. So we'd take coke bottles down to 200 and 300 yards sit at our favorite covered bench with one kid on a spotting scope and the other on a .22 with probably the cheapest 2x scope ever made probably made in the 50's. I got to where I would put a spotting scope close to me and because of the flight time I could move from behind the rifle to the spotting scope and see the impact. I don't know if we had 400 yards or not. We're talking 1965-1968 folks I'm an old codger tater
@sstevens7 my guess would be if you're using too high of magnification when you shoot it's harder to see and spot your shots compared to when your zoomed out a bit more. But I could be way out to left field on that
@@sstevens7finding targets quickly is much slower when using too much magnification, and with target transitions. Spotting splash is also harder with too much mag. FOV is worsened at higher mag. For DMR/PRS/and team matches, I am never above 10x. The only time I used max magnification is to confirm zero or adjust for parallax for a specific target distance.
@@jrbullock he said the problem is using magnification when you don’t need to use it. Where do you draw that line? I shot this challenge back in June at 36 power with zero issues spotting misses. Plenty of range of view around target to spot misses. I’d argue that if you can’t spot your misses you need to rein in your expectations on what distance you are allowing yourself to shoot at. Train on your rifle and know your dope allowing the range of your miss to be smaller. My main argument is to restrict your magnification, not necessarily for spotting misses better but for ease of target capture and less movement within glass with unintentional firearm manipulation. F Class John talks about this on his 80 powered glass…. He said he had to retrain himself on how he manipulates his rifle when utilizing higher power on the glass due to the tiniest movements making it hard to maintain a good sight picture. Think he said he usually stays within the 50-60 power range, not utilizing its full power potential.
You have no idea how much this has helped. Was literally scratching my head why it seemed like more practiced shooters could "see splash" and put round after round quickly on target.... or walking it in... I on the other hand was never seeing splash so I was bewildered at how you guys were doing it. Zooming out enough so i can see impact makes sense, so i should only be zoomed in as far as need be.
The key is exit pupil. The human eye has a minimum eye pupil diameter of 2 mm, and that's the minimum on the brightest day. To calculate your scope's exit pupil, you simply divide the objective lens diameter by the magnification. If your scope's exit pupil is smaller than 2 mm, it means that the image will easily vignette; the image of the scope will turn into black instantly if you're off center at ALL. Arken's highest magnification is 35x. With a 56mm objective lens, the exit pupil at highest magnification is 1.6 mm. This means that at 35x, the image will turn into black if you're not absolutely still, and you will absolutely lose the image once you fire due to the recoil instantly throwing you off the image. With a 56 mm objective lens, you should back off the magnification to 28x AT MINIMUM. *I say at minimum because your eye's pupil will grow in size at dusk to gather more light, which means your scope will need to back off of magnification to gather more light as well.
I am not a scope guy, I am a telescope guy, I spend most my time on a really nice 12 inch Dobsonian.....after all the years spending long nights with really smart people, actual Doctors....I have never heard this explained in such a simple way. I have heard it explained in really convoluted, complex ways....that I didn't fully get....but you put it out there in a very simple way. Great Job Amigo.
Speaking for those who reload, there are several reasons why we prefer or even have to single-feed each round. Oftentimes, when working up loads meant for long range, we run very long COALs or case overall length, which makes the rounds too long to feed properly with most stock magazines. Even if they will feed, I am so accustomed to pulling that brass to check for over pressure signs, as well as inspecting each and every spent primer and primer pocket. Not something most shooters are concerned with, but to us every detail matters. Just like you said when running a wider neck tension, rounds can also be tweaked if not fed properly. Just food for thought!
I do not reload (yet), so I can't speak from experience, but I've heard that many precision reloaders use lighter neck tension (i.e. the "strength" holding the bullet in the casing), and as a result the recoil could affect the seating depth (i.e. how far the bullet is pushed in the casing) of ammo in the mag, which in turn have a negative effect on accuracy.
@@triggermoviesI shoot 80 grain VLD’s from my AR in 600 yard slow fire, single round feed, prone stage of US Service Rifle Competition where the bullet is seated for an OAL which is not magazine tolerant for need to have bullet about .20 off lands to get best accuracy.
@triggermovies if you have a heavy recoiling rifle it can move the bullet. Most of us single feed because our handloads are just too long to fit in mags. Having said that, all of my hunting loads are mag compliant.
I just got my 3rd Arken EPL-4 I used your CODE again.. I am blown away with the quality. This time around i got the complete setup. Titanium rings, throw lever, bubble level. So impressed, I just ordered 2 more complete setups.
I am exactly the person that you mentioned first. I recently got into reloading, shooting the EP5 and at 200m (about 220 yards) I set it to 25 power and then missed half the hits. Makes sense. I wish you also had the reticle on this video to show your holdovers on these mile shots. This is the video I’ve been looking for the last 2 years plus. Magic! Thanks for the content!!
Great video and the scope at a great price point. I was taught both in the military and shooting champion rifle matches to load up your magazine with ammo so that you can keep the same sight picture during your shooting sessions with no interruptions as you fire each shot.
Great job Brandon. Have watched you from the beginning. You have come a long way and you have the intellect to still learn every day. Great reviews and I love the honesty. Keep it up and I will 100% keep watching.
Hey Brandon, just wanted to show some love and support. I look forward to the 1000 yard competition every month but i also watch the many videos you post about long distance shooting. I know you put a lot of time and effort into the videos and i just want you to know its not going unnoticed. As i type that, i see you are 1.12M subscribers so im happy your work is doing well.
Great topic! as a new shooter myself.. I had all these questions a few months back.. I like your explanation about scope zoom and dialing back to get more mills on long range shots. Makes total sense to me. Will def influence my next scope selection.. That arken looks pretty sweet too! Cheers
I learned this when I took my 5-25x56 deer hunting. Although I live in the west and there are lots of wide open spaces, I did find myself in the woods at times wishing I had something that bottomed out more like 4 or 3x in case a shorter range opportunity presented itself. However I could always slap on a canted red dot 😆
Low power with a large objective also increases brightness during low light times. I have a 3-9 x 50 and it is great for overcast or late afternoon shooting.
High Magnification means shallow depth of field, so you can use the focuser as a range finder. It’s a rule bender for Field Target competition (air rifle targets at unknown ranges). I use a 10-50x scope. You can range down to the nearest yard for under 75yd shots. We use giant side focusing wheels to make it easier to read off the range. Once you have the range, you back off the magnification to something sensible.
You addressed my reasoning. I don't have a spotter ,so I zoom in to look at the target. I'll also use it to look at deer moving in at longer distances for ID. The 7-35x56 is what I wanted before I bought the earlier 5-25x56. Didn't realize they would go this high in magnification with any budget scope. Arken breaking the mold !
Great video. With regard to reasons to single feed: I have had F-Class shooters tell me they prefer to not use a lot of neck tension and the recoil of the rifle can change the seating depth of cartridges in the magazine due to the low neck tension. Also, like you said, if the cartridge hangs up a little on the feed ramp it can also change the seating depth if there is low neck tension. Another reason my brother in law gives is that on some cartridges he shoots, the projectile is seated out far enough that the OAL is longer than what the magazine will accept. Also, I am really looking hard at the Arken scopes. I had not given them much consideration, but am reading some GREAT field reports from several different sources.
1x is fantastic. I'm happy with 1-8s and 1-6s. It's all about what you need it for. My range goes out a little past 300yards. 6x and 8x feel alright to me
This video absolutely needed to be made, thanks for informing newer shooters of what to look for and what to avoid. Currently I'm rocking a ffp 5-30 and love it for hunting and long range sport shooting. Making PID at range (# of tines on a buck, or spotting hits on steel) is the #1 reason you go with higher magnification. It prevents you going from scope to binos or spotting scope and keeps you behind the gun at all times. However, when I'm spotting steel at 500+ yds I will always back out the magnification to 18-20 so I can spot trace and splash if I miss.
I discovered Arken scopes from watching your videos. It was the luckiest thing that’s happened to me in a while. I’ve never seen any scopes that are as high quality as these in that price range. Since they are less expensive I grabbed a couple of the EP5s so I didn’t have to switch them around to different rifles. the Gen 2 has the same awesome quality. Thanks for pointing me to Arken!
Magnification is only good if you have the glass quality to support it. IOR had top ends of 40-40x but had the glass to make it work. March has an 8-80x56
Im genuinely excited for this scope. I have a Leupold Mark 5 7-35 and its a fantastic scope, but its not cheap. Im really hoping that this scope will give that magnification for precision out to a 1000 yards and have a clear picture on the target. The magnification is what you make of it. Sometimes that super high magnification is great, but sometimes you need to turn it back to clean up the target due to a host of reasons.
I've never done any long distance shooting, but I appreciate the way you explain things about it. Now I need to find a long enough range near me to try it out. Nice scope, by the way!
Good advice..I think you just talked me into an EP5! Frankly I was going to go lower, something with a 2.5-4 low range, 12-18 on the high range. Now I see the need for 25X.
Thanks for the video. I am getting ready and set up for some long-distance shooting for the first time pretty excited about it and this was very helpful. Good information.
I appreciate you doing full disclosure on your relationship, and btw, I think most people will not mind or will completely understand you wanting to have an affiliate program with Arken because they legitimately do offer good scopes for the money. Like the Stryker scopes or the Primary arms latest scopes, I think everyone is in agreement that they are surprisingly solid for the money
Good video. I own a few Arken scopes… all great scopes and value. I find high magnification is a big aid for: 1. Load testing at 100 yards… the high magnification shows all your movement (error in fundamentals); while letting you really pinpoint your hold. 2. Dry firing… no better way to see the slightest movement when the power is maxed out. I frequent Badlands Tactical in Grandfield, OK and in their LR courses, they keep you at a max of 12x… more than adequate to shoot 1000 yards!
Great video. Lucky you can use silencers, not possible everywhere here in Europe. Valid points. Also to keep clarity you need lots of $$$ for good glass. Nice set up you got there. Greetings from Malta 🇲🇹
Always impressed by your ability to shoot at distance. I have been debating for awhile now about getting a scope with higher magnification then some of my Redfield and Leupold 18x and 24x magnification scopes because I only have ranges around me out to 300yds. But a older shooter told me years ago. "scopes allow old shooters with bad eyes to keep shooting". Now I am the older shooter with not so good eyes. So last week when I saw Arken had a 7x35 I ordered it. I got the scope within days but I am still waiting on the rings I guess because of the way I ordered it. The scope seems to have good quality, time will tell.
Thanks to you I own 6 5-25 ep 5 s and live every one of them and a friend told me at the first of getting in to target shooting buy a scope you can afford if you want multiple scopes because learning how to operate multiple scopes is a problem you don’t need.all my scope are the same and all operate identical thanks to arken I can now put the same operating scope on my other ne mile guns. Thanks for the info love you videos
As an addition thing to think about, lenses typically tend to distort the closer you get to their extremes. With a 35x you may get a cleaner picture at 20-28x. If you have a 25x you are more likely to experience distortion at the upper limits 22-25x. Having a lower limit at 7x may be pushing it for most people if they are using it for hunting, if you’re strictly shooting long range that shouldn’t be an issue.
My Dad said your sharp and knowledgeable with your explanation of this sort of thing and know how to talk, alot of the others here on YT have big mouths and throw stuff out there and have no clue what it means, with my Dad being ex military and a Marksman, he said really a person doesn't really need magnification over 16 power unless shooting long range, but 16 power will get you to 800 yards, even a mile away with the SH4 Gen 2 4-16x50mm
Astronomy telescope, love the brutal honesty! 🤣 Being a Long Range Virgin, this series of videos has been very helpful and informative. Trying to decide on the right glass for a new MPA 300PRC on order. Going to start out at my property which I can do up to 500yds and then venture out to some ranges w/in a reasonable distance that have 1000yds and mile. Plan to do some PRS in the future. Aside from the cost, I'm considering the new Arken you just demo'd, the Athelon Cronus BTK and Nightforce ATACR. I know I have a steep learning curve ahead and that any of those scopes will do the job, but considering low light situations and being able to withstand being banged around a little in the real world are big concerns as well. Any and all advice appreciated.
It was nice to see Henry from nine hole reviews. Say that he usually shoots 1000 yards at 10 power. Heck if I remember right, he’s even done it with iron sights
Same but at 200-800yd. S&B 6-36 6.5PRC 3000+fps easy to control recoil. He makes good points around spotting misses. That can be a challenge. But that’s where field of view at higher mag is pretty important too
The best way I've heard this topic explained, though perhaps not the easiest to follow at first, is that it is possible to either out-shoot your zoom or out-zoom your shoot. Meaning: If you're only going to shoot out to 250 yards, you don't want to use max zoom on a 10-50 scope. That's too much and you're out zooming your shoot. Alternatively, if you're shooting out to 2,500 yards, you damn sure don't want minimum zoom out of a 3-9 scope. That's out shooting your zoom. Personally, I like the 3 sight picture approach. This is where you choose a scope for the max distance at which you plan to shoot. Once you determine your max distance, you will want to figure out the size & how large it will appear in your objective at max zoom. On max zoom, you'll want to be able to see as close to and at least 3 times the size of your target. If your target is deer for example, at your max distance and on max zoom, you should be able to see 3 deer standing nose to tail.
I have that scope and am looking at the 5-30 for my 6gt build. I've never looked through an Arken. I was gonna comment about how their glass compares to a steiner, but you kind of answered my question. I have vortex razors and nightforce scopes, and they don't compare in glass quality to the steiner. The vortex is close, but the nightforce is definitely not. I do like the durability of the nightforce and its accuracy. Steiner has some of the best glass in the business, in my opinion. I'm gonna have to look at Arken if you're saying it's comparable.
@@michaelcerrone1482 I looked through both at the same time at 400 yds, 700 yds and 1145yds.. the Arken is not as good but its not far off. My Steiner is not 4 times better, not even 2 times better. My Steiner definitely tracks well. Arken tracks well too. Glass quality for me Steiner is a 9, in comparison to a Tangent Theta or a S&B. The Arken is like a 7 or 7.5 in glass quality compared to a Tangent.... My only gripe is I dont like the reticle. imo.. the T6Xi is my fav scope period.. the turrets are amazing, it tracks perfect, glass is great. Lifetime warranty as well. Arken EP5 is best sub $1000 scope Leupold MK4HD and Steiner T6Xi are the best sub $2000 scopes and the best ever is Tangent Theta..
Shooting 300 WinMag on a light weight hunting rifle, made me learn to shoot with 10x at 1,500 yards, and 12x at 1 mile. I use the high magnification only for target verification.
So far, my first gen ep5 has been great. I had got it for my ar10 6.5 cm build. Very rarely do I ever shoot at 25x on that thing, and it's less recoil then my 7mm or 300, and those have gen 3 razors, which is 36x. I definitely agree it's nice if you need more, but realistically, I'm not shooting on such high magnification. Awesome video. I hope it helps a lot of newer shooters coming into high magnification optics. Also i hate how arken automatically has a 25% discount code on their page to use. I always tp code and tell others to make sure to use also. That way you get the coin!
I've never shot out past 400 because its hard to find a range longer than 100 here in Indiana without driving well over an hour and I'm a busy guy. Id like to see a video from you on dialing out to 1k with a zero of 1-200. I feel like you'd put it in terms that I could understand better than the other videos I've seen. Ive been watching your stuff for a few years now and I've enjoyed every one you put out.
G'day, I have one on a Desert Tech SRS A2 in .300win, with this exact scope in milrad, shooting at 1000m I only wind it up to around x20 to 25x, where the x35 comes in handy is checking the fall of shot on target, you don't need a spotting scope, just wind the scope up to x35 you can see the hits on the target.
Very high magnification has two downsides. 1. It compresses a lot of air/atmosphere into the image, over long distance, which causes terrible mirage and makes the image dark and fuzzy. 2. It massively amplifies the smallest movements, making the image incredibly jittery, which then makes it difficult to see the image and can be hard on the eyes. I shot a 16x scope to 2000 yds and had no issues with it. IMO, 24x or so is about the realistic max magnification that is usable in the field or at very long distances. I'm sure a whole ton of people who never shoot past 500 yds are gonna come along and tell me I'm wrong though.
I am of the thought that you can’t use extra magnification if you don’t have it. Whether it’s a 6-24x or a 8-42x, BOTH have 24x. But the 8-42x has much more if needed. No one is forcing you to use it.
@@sirtango1 Weight, complexity, and depending on the quality of the scope, overall clarity and eye box suffers by having that higher magnification available.
@@JimYeats Gotcha, to me the weight doesn’t matter that much. Complexity unless you’re using a certain magnification for ranging you have to pay attention. It’s easy to range something at a higher power and forget to turn it back down for ranging. I have done that before just plinking. Thankfully I have never done that in a tournament or match. YET! Clarity goes with the quality of the glass, but light transmission decreases as higher power magnification settings are used. The eye box is pretty minimal, thankfully I’ve never suffered from scope eye from any of my bigger bores. I just like having the option to crank up the scope and have a closer look if need be. I run heat shields on my long range guns to cut down the mirage effects. But to me i’m the better to have it and not need it crowd. I have a 42x power scope on my match .22. It’s far more impressive watching a “huge” hole get blown in the target than punching holes with a Lahti or Solothurn! 😂 And the .22lr has SLIGHTLY less recoil than the 20mm’s! 🤣🤣 Keep ‘em in the 10 ring!
@@sirtango1 I mean the complexity of the scope increases and internals have to be adjusted as significant magnification range changes occur. So, durability suffers is what I meant.
I have a vortex razor gen 3 6-36 on my 300 PRC. I love maxing it out to group at 100 yards. It’ll let you know real quick if you’re having any fundamental issues that need to be addressed.
I'm a big fan of Arken myself. I own 3 of their scopes. My only concern is that they need more personnel. Every scope I've ordered from them has taken 6 to 8 weeks delivery time. Other than that, you can't beat the quality, especially for the price.
Recently got the EP 8 for my 14.5" 5.56 build and it's been an awesome LPVO so far. Only complaint is the reticle takes a little bit of getting used to. Overall very impressed with the quality and feature set for the price point
totally agree that to much magnification can be a problem but when combined with field of view. my lr scope is the leupold mk4 8-25 and 25 is to narrow at a mile. my magic number is 18 but if i had a scope with a wider field of view a higher magnification would be good.
I don’t shoot very long range or worry about groups less than 10” (usually 600 yards or less). I follow Ryan Cleckner’s recommendation and stick with 10x (not-variable).
My view is if you have a high magnification you utilize it as a spotting scope application on your targets to view in. Besides that you cant see where your bullet is landing.
For shooting 22lr past 100y I take all the magnification I can get. Usually shooting at paper, so it's the only way to see holes. At 200m, 30x is just adequate for me to see holes, anything beyond I'd need to check with a spotting scope. Getting parallax properly adjusted at full magnification at that range is a challenge... it focuses slightly better at 25x. Centerfire shooting 300-1000y I was surprised how unusable 25x (max mag.) was. FOV was so small misses were nearly impossible to see unless they were right next to the plate. Mirage became a real issue after just a few shots. Backing it off to 16x I could walk it out to 1000y no problem.
I think buying more magnification that you need is important when buying mid-tier to budget optics. Every scope generally suffers from a decrease in optical clarity when you get close to the maximum magnification. So if you really want to shoot at 15x but you don’t want to pay for the super high quality glass then getting a max range of up to 25x is a good plan. The optical clarity in that scope will probably be at its best around 15x. Also, many first focal plane scopes are near unusable below 10x power because the reticle becomes so fine. Now for the real high power scopes look at the F-Class guys. March makes one that goes to 80x. Good video btw. I need to get my hands on that new arken to see how it compares to the Bushnell Match Pro ED. If it’s near the optical clarity of the Bushnell it is one heck of a deal at the discounted price.
Just saw a video a few days ago about the March X Majesta, with the highest Magnifification available at 8-80x56. March would probably send you one for testing.
It’s a $4300 scope. Not sure how many they’d be sending out for testing. Seems like they designed it specifically for F-Class since it’s got 1/8” MOA adjustments.
@@lethPointer totally fair. I’d be stoked if someone handed me one to play with for a while. If Texas Plinking wants one I hope they send him one. Just thought it was such a specialized scope the company might be stingy. But you better bet if he makes a video on one I’d be watching.
Idk if you are into testing a gun theory. But could you test out group size differences when placing a foregrip in the middle of the rail and when its closest to the magazine and post a video on it. All you would need is 2 different target papers, stand up shooting at 100 yards too see if foregrip position really does change group sizes and I guess 20 bullets per target. Thanks for reading this. I know this effect has some merit to it because if you place a bipod on a rifle it changes the accuracy of the rifle, but since gun fighting is more common at less than 100 yards than at 300 yards it would be a more practical video.
I like to watch me shooting the orange out of the target at 200 yards with centerfire and 100 yards at 100... I have the Arken at 25 power and only complaint is the eye box, but nothing one can't adjust to and like it as it is a value... Also, like their 20-moa mount.
The reason for large magnification or something similar to 7-35x magnification is not only that you can use 35x (which you shouldnt use 99 percent of the time) but because you can put your scope in middle range of that magnification which in this case would be (7+35)/2= 21 so in other words you could now use your scope on magnifications close to 21x (20;19;18) which is way more workble magnification while having the best eye relief and picture quality on your scope. When you use your scope on max magnification there is a point where you start decreasing the eyebox size as well as decreasing the picture quality. So basicslly if you prefer shooting using lets say 10x magnification, than you should get something in range of 4-16x mag.
What brand hat is that? Living in Texas I’m sure you have some American hat company ones? Straw hats are underrated for how cool they keep you outside in hot weather.
If you can see 5 on your scope but you need 10 you can aim with your 5 and look up at your cross hair and then put your 5 where your cross hair was. Now its 10. Like using your 60 yard pin on a bow as an 80 yard pin.
Handloaded rounds may not fit in the mag because some load to have the projectile sitting closer to the lands when chambered. This makes the cartridge to long to fit in the mag.
The main reason people single load cartridges has nothing to do with cool, number of rounds predicted, or jarring the bullet. Handloaders tend to seat bullets closer to the lands and grooves as they dial in seating depth. Most magazines will not hold these longer cartridges and force you to load without a magazine.
In this video, we take a look at the new Arken Optics EP5 7-35X56 and use it as an important talking point that I don't think gets brought up enough and that is, is there such thing as having "too much" magnification on your rifle scope? Hopefully this video gives you insight you maybe haven't considered before. In any case, this new EP5 is amazing at any price but you can check it out here and save $200 using code "texasplinking" at checkout: bit.ly/3Tvg4vt (That code works to save you the most on any product on Arken's site)
A lot of yall were asking about the rear stock bag. Here’s a link for it: amzn.to/3Mwtz9X
@TexasPlinking what do you think about the little nub on the bottom of the optic. Is that where they shoot in the gas? Does it get in the way on low rings or with mounts?
Looking for a good rear bag what is the one you are using in this video ?
A reason for loading by hand instead of the mag is because some guys don’t seat their bullets all the way down and don’t crimp the bullet. Adjusting the bullet further forward can give you better accuracy by positioning it a certain distance from the rifling. This gives it a certain amount of thousandths jump to the rifling. And sometimes it lengthens the entire round to much to fit into the magazine. And if fed from the magazine can move the bullet placement within the case.
there might not be too much magnification but there is certainly too much weight and this scope weighs 50 ounces in a mount ...thats 3 pounds at the highest point
You get more shimmer with high magnification. Everything has to do with light and shadow and the position of the sun and the time of day which way the wind is blowing Because that will effect your target in the shimmer. If it is late in the day & the temp is dropping in Deep South Texas from a 100 who knows what temp and your looking at over a mile with the sun at your back at a 2"x2" survey hub and he drives it into the ground where you tell um Then he places the tack on the hub the tack is an 1/8" and you say go left 2 hundredths and he says you can see that? As if I was standing right next to you buddy I reply. It also has to do with air quality and dust particles and pollen and parts per million stuff like that. We used to do the same thing at West Ave Rifle Range in the summer as kids hot as hell no clients no range guy to be found anywhere nothing but grasshoppers and a lot of shimmer. We couldn't shoot the paper that cost money. So we'd take coke bottles down to 200 and 300 yards sit at our favorite covered bench with one kid on a spotting scope and the other on a .22 with probably the cheapest 2x scope ever made probably made in the 50's. I got to where I would put a spotting scope close to me and because of the flight time I could move from behind the rifle to the spotting scope and see the impact. I don't know if we had 400 yards or not. We're talking 1965-1968 folks I'm an old codger tater
Having the high magnification is not the problem. Using the high magnification when you do not need to use the high magnification is the problem.
How so?
@sstevens7 my guess would be if you're using too high of magnification when you shoot it's harder to see and spot your shots compared to when your zoomed out a bit more. But I could be way out to left field on that
@@sstevens7finding targets quickly is much slower when using too much magnification, and with target transitions. Spotting splash is also harder with too much mag. FOV is worsened at higher mag. For DMR/PRS/and team matches, I am never above 10x. The only time I used max magnification is to confirm zero or adjust for parallax for a specific target distance.
@@sstevens7 smaller field of view and mirage are two issues using high mag when not needed.
@@jrbullock he said the problem is using magnification when you don’t need to use it. Where do you draw that line? I shot this challenge back in June at 36 power with zero issues spotting misses. Plenty of range of view around target to spot misses. I’d argue that if you can’t spot your misses you need to rein in your expectations on what distance you are allowing yourself to shoot at. Train on your rifle and know your dope allowing the range of your miss to be smaller. My main argument is to restrict your magnification, not necessarily for spotting misses better but for ease of target capture and less movement within glass with unintentional firearm manipulation. F Class John talks about this on his 80 powered glass…. He said he had to retrain himself on how he manipulates his rifle when utilizing higher power on the glass due to the tiniest movements making it hard to maintain a good sight picture. Think he said he usually stays within the 50-60 power range, not utilizing its full power potential.
You have no idea how much this has helped. Was literally scratching my head why it seemed like more practiced shooters could "see splash" and put round after round quickly on target.... or walking it in... I on the other hand was never seeing splash so I was bewildered at how you guys were doing it. Zooming out enough so i can see impact makes sense, so i should only be zoomed in as far as need be.
The key is exit pupil.
The human eye has a minimum eye pupil diameter of 2 mm, and that's the minimum on the brightest day. To calculate your scope's exit pupil, you simply divide the objective lens diameter by the magnification. If your scope's exit pupil is smaller than 2 mm, it means that the image will easily vignette; the image of the scope will turn into black instantly if you're off center at ALL.
Arken's highest magnification is 35x. With a 56mm objective lens, the exit pupil at highest magnification is 1.6 mm. This means that at 35x, the image will turn into black if you're not absolutely still, and you will absolutely lose the image once you fire due to the recoil instantly throwing you off the image. With a 56 mm objective lens, you should back off the magnification to 28x AT MINIMUM.
*I say at minimum because your eye's pupil will grow in size at dusk to gather more light, which means your scope will need to back off of magnification to gather more light as well.
WOW you made that incredibly simple to understand
good info!!!
Gee...thanks for that info😊
I am not a scope guy, I am a telescope guy, I spend most my time on a really nice 12 inch Dobsonian.....after all the years spending long nights with really smart people, actual Doctors....I have never heard this explained in such a simple way. I have heard it explained in really convoluted, complex ways....that I didn't fully get....but you put it out there in a very simple way. Great Job Amigo.
This is the best explanation for exit pupil I have ever seen. I understand, and I'm an idiot, lol. Thanks for the comment
Speaking for those who reload, there are several reasons why we prefer or even have to single-feed each round. Oftentimes, when working up loads meant for long range, we run very long COALs or case overall length, which makes the rounds too long to feed properly with most stock magazines. Even if they will feed, I am so accustomed to pulling that brass to check for over pressure signs, as well as inspecting each and every spent primer and primer pocket. Not something most shooters are concerned with, but to us every detail matters. Just like you said when running a wider neck tension, rounds can also be tweaked if not fed properly. Just food for thought!
I do not reload (yet), so I can't speak from experience, but I've heard that many precision reloaders use lighter neck tension (i.e. the "strength" holding the bullet in the casing), and as a result the recoil could affect the seating depth (i.e. how far the bullet is pushed in the casing) of ammo in the mag, which in turn have a negative effect on accuracy.
@@triggermoviesI shoot 80 grain VLD’s from my AR in 600 yard slow fire, single round feed, prone stage of US Service Rifle Competition where the bullet is seated for an OAL which is not magazine tolerant for need to have bullet about .20 off lands to get best accuracy.
@triggermovies if you have a heavy recoiling rifle it can move the bullet. Most of us single feed because our handloads are just too long to fit in mags. Having said that, all of my hunting loads are mag compliant.
I just got my 3rd Arken EPL-4 I used your CODE again.. I am blown away with the quality. This time around i got the complete setup. Titanium rings, throw lever, bubble level. So impressed, I just ordered 2 more complete setups.
Love your videos, especially the long range shooting competition. Keep it up!
Thanks for the support!
Im in canada and would love to come one day for Texas plinking chalange. Stay safe and groups tight.🤚♠️🤚
I am exactly the person that you mentioned first. I recently got into reloading, shooting the EP5 and at 200m (about 220 yards) I set it to 25 power and then missed half the hits.
Makes sense. I wish you also had the reticle on this video to show your holdovers on these mile shots.
This is the video I’ve been looking for the last 2 years plus.
Magic! Thanks for the content!!
Great video and the scope at a great price point.
I was taught both in the military and shooting champion rifle matches to load up your magazine with ammo so that you can keep the same sight picture during your shooting sessions with no interruptions as you fire each shot.
Great job Brandon. Have watched you from the beginning. You have come a long way and you have the intellect to still learn every day. Great reviews and I love the honesty. Keep it up and I will 100% keep watching.
Hey Brandon, just wanted to show some love and support. I look forward to the 1000 yard competition every month but i also watch the many videos you post about long distance shooting. I know you put a lot of time and effort into the videos and i just want you to know its not going unnoticed. As i type that, i see you are 1.12M subscribers so im happy your work is doing well.
Great topic! as a new shooter myself.. I had all these questions a few months back.. I like your explanation about scope zoom and dialing back to get more mills on long range shots. Makes total sense to me. Will def influence my next scope selection.. That arken looks pretty sweet too! Cheers
I learned this when I took my 5-25x56 deer hunting. Although I live in the west and there are lots of wide open spaces, I did find myself in the woods at times wishing I had something that bottomed out more like 4 or 3x in case a shorter range opportunity presented itself. However I could always slap on a canted red dot 😆
Low power with a large objective also increases brightness during low light times. I have a 3-9 x 50 and it is great for overcast or late afternoon shooting.
High Magnification means shallow depth of field, so you can use the focuser as a range finder. It’s a rule bender for Field Target competition (air rifle targets at unknown ranges). I use a 10-50x scope. You can range down to the nearest yard for under 75yd shots. We use giant side focusing wheels to make it easier to read off the range. Once you have the range, you back off the magnification to something sensible.
Lol, I had no idea what those big wheels were for on scopes.
You addressed my reasoning. I don't have a spotter ,so I zoom in to look at the target. I'll also use it to look at deer moving in at longer distances for ID. The 7-35x56 is what I wanted before I bought the earlier 5-25x56. Didn't realize they would go this high in magnification with any budget scope. Arken breaking the mold !
Great video. With regard to reasons to single feed: I have had F-Class shooters tell me they prefer to not use a lot of neck tension and the recoil of the rifle can change the seating depth of cartridges in the magazine due to the low neck tension. Also, like you said, if the cartridge hangs up a little on the feed ramp it can also change the seating depth if there is low neck tension. Another reason my brother in law gives is that on some cartridges he shoots, the projectile is seated out far enough that the OAL is longer than what the magazine will accept. Also, I am really looking hard at the Arken scopes. I had not given them much consideration, but am reading some GREAT field reports from several different sources.
This is a GREAT explanation! Really appreciate the effort on this one!
1x is fantastic. I'm happy with 1-8s and 1-6s.
It's all about what you need it for. My range goes out a little past 300yards. 6x and 8x feel alright to me
This video absolutely needed to be made, thanks for informing newer shooters of what to look for and what to avoid.
Currently I'm rocking a ffp 5-30 and love it for hunting and long range sport shooting. Making PID at range (# of tines on a buck, or spotting hits on steel) is the #1 reason you go with higher magnification. It prevents you going from scope to binos or spotting scope and keeps you behind the gun at all times. However, when I'm spotting steel at 500+ yds I will always back out the magnification to 18-20 so I can spot trace and splash if I miss.
I discovered Arken scopes from watching your videos. It was the luckiest thing that’s happened to me in a while. I’ve never seen any scopes that are as high quality as these in that price range. Since they are less expensive I grabbed a couple of the EP5s so I didn’t have to switch them around to different rifles. the Gen 2 has the same awesome quality. Thanks for pointing me to Arken!
Magnification is only good if you have the glass quality to support it. IOR had top ends of 40-40x but had the glass to make it work. March has an 8-80x56
Another awesome, informative video. I hope you enjoy making these because you are REALLY good at it.
Im genuinely excited for this scope. I have a Leupold Mark 5 7-35 and its a fantastic scope, but its not cheap. Im really hoping that this scope will give that magnification for precision out to a 1000 yards and have a clear picture on the target.
The magnification is what you make of it. Sometimes that super high magnification is great, but sometimes you need to turn it back to clean up the target due to a host of reasons.
It does I got a nf also. Been out to 2k.clear..
I’ve got one too! Great scope but I’m almost thinking of selling it and buying this so I’ll have more ammo funds
I've seen a few videos of bench rest shooters using that 80x March SFP, specialized business for sure. Great video, love this stuff.
I've never done any long distance shooting, but I appreciate the way you explain things about it. Now I need to find a long enough range near me to try it out. Nice scope, by the way!
Good advice..I think you just talked me into an EP5! Frankly I was going to go lower, something with a 2.5-4 low range, 12-18 on the high range. Now I see the need for 25X.
For those who hand load sometimes the projectile is seated to far forward to fit in a standard magazine, especially with heavy (long) projectiles.
The Arken EP5 looks like a solid piece of gear, but I’d love to hear more about how it performs in different scenarios.
Thanks for the video. I am getting ready and set up for some long-distance shooting for the first time pretty excited about it and this was very helpful. Good information.
I appreciate you doing full disclosure on your relationship, and btw, I think most people will not mind or will completely understand you wanting to have an affiliate program with Arken because they legitimately do offer good scopes for the money. Like the Stryker scopes or the Primary arms latest scopes, I think everyone is in agreement that they are surprisingly solid for the money
Excellent discussion on pros and cons of magnification
Good video. I own a few Arken scopes… all great scopes and value. I find high magnification is a big aid for:
1. Load testing at 100 yards… the high magnification shows all your movement (error in fundamentals); while letting you really pinpoint your hold.
2. Dry firing… no better way to see the slightest movement when the power is maxed out.
I frequent Badlands Tactical in Grandfield, OK and in their LR courses, they keep you at a max of 12x… more than adequate to shoot 1000 yards!
I do love your honesty
😂
Great video. Lucky you can use silencers, not possible everywhere here in Europe. Valid points. Also to keep clarity you need lots of $$$ for good glass. Nice set up you got there. Greetings from Malta 🇲🇹
Just used your code with Arken to save money on my first NV scope. Love watching the long range challenge videos!
Always impressed by your ability to shoot at distance. I have been debating for awhile now about getting a scope with higher magnification then some of my Redfield and Leupold 18x and 24x magnification scopes because I only have ranges around me out to 300yds. But a older shooter told me years ago. "scopes allow old shooters with bad eyes to keep shooting". Now I am the older shooter with not so good eyes. So last week when I saw Arken had a 7x35 I ordered it. I got the scope within days but I am still waiting on the rings I guess because of the way I ordered it. The scope seems to have good quality, time will tell.
I definitely appreciate and respect your HONESTY!!!
Gosh thanks for this video! Saved me alot of heartbreak, money, and time!
Thanks to you I own 6 5-25 ep 5 s and live every one of them and a friend told me at the first of getting in to target shooting buy a scope you can afford if you want multiple scopes because learning how to operate multiple scopes is a problem you don’t need.all my scope are the same and all operate identical thanks to arken I can now put the same operating scope on my other ne mile guns. Thanks for the info love you videos
I totally enjoy these type of videos. I wish you would do more often.
Great video.. makes total sense and answered a lot of questions I had as a new shooter. thanks!
I agree I learned that running high magnification will affect your groups. I only use what I need for the given distance.
As an addition thing to think about, lenses typically tend to distort the closer you get to their extremes. With a 35x you may get a cleaner picture at 20-28x. If you have a 25x you are more likely to experience distortion at the upper limits 22-25x.
Having a lower limit at 7x may be pushing it for most people if they are using it for hunting, if you’re strictly shooting long range that shouldn’t be an issue.
Great video. I started with the more is better idea.. but over time.. I realize less mag gives you better visibility overall
Completely agree, my background is benchrest. I’ve seen Hunter class Benchrest shooters, shoot a half minute with a six power
My Dad said your sharp and knowledgeable with your explanation of this sort of thing and know how to talk, alot of the others here on YT have big mouths and throw stuff out there and have no clue what it means, with my Dad being ex military and a Marksman, he said really a person doesn't really need magnification over 16 power unless shooting long range, but 16 power will get you to 800 yards, even a mile away with the SH4 Gen 2 4-16x50mm
Astronomy telescope, love the brutal honesty! 🤣
Being a Long Range Virgin, this series of videos has been very helpful and informative. Trying to decide on the right glass for a new MPA 300PRC on order. Going to start out at my property which I can do up to 500yds and then venture out to some ranges w/in a reasonable distance that have 1000yds and mile. Plan to do some PRS in the future.
Aside from the cost, I'm considering the new Arken you just demo'd, the Athelon Cronus BTK and Nightforce ATACR. I know I have a steep learning curve ahead and that any of those scopes will do the job, but considering low light situations and being able to withstand being banged around a little in the real world are big concerns as well.
Any and all advice appreciated.
It was nice to see Henry from nine hole reviews. Say that he usually shoots 1000 yards at 10 power. Heck if I remember right, he’s even done it with iron sights
I run my ATACR on 35x, even at 100 yards. For me, personally, it doesn't hurt at all. And yes, I shoot 1,000 yards often, as well.
What rifle setup & caliber?
Same but at 200-800yd. S&B 6-36 6.5PRC 3000+fps easy to control recoil. He makes good points around spotting misses. That can be a challenge. But that’s where field of view at higher mag is pretty important too
Wtf, that's crazy lol. Field of view is definitely not in your vocabulary
The best way I've heard this topic explained, though perhaps not the easiest to follow at first, is that it is possible to either out-shoot your zoom or out-zoom your shoot.
Meaning: If you're only going to shoot out to 250 yards, you don't want to use max zoom on a 10-50 scope. That's too much and you're out zooming your shoot.
Alternatively, if you're shooting out to 2,500 yards, you damn sure don't want minimum zoom out of a 3-9 scope. That's out shooting your zoom.
Personally, I like the 3 sight picture approach. This is where you choose a scope for the max distance at which you plan to shoot. Once you determine your max distance, you will want to figure out the size & how large it will appear in your objective at max zoom. On max zoom, you'll want to be able to see as close to and at least 3 times the size of your target. If your target is deer for example, at your max distance and on max zoom, you should be able to see 3 deer standing nose to tail.
I have a 3-18 T6Xi.. the Arken is very close in glass quality. Was very surprised
I have that scope and am looking at the 5-30 for my 6gt build. I've never looked through an Arken. I was gonna comment about how their glass compares to a steiner, but you kind of answered my question. I have vortex razors and nightforce scopes, and they don't compare in glass quality to the steiner. The vortex is close, but the nightforce is definitely not. I do like the durability of the nightforce and its accuracy. Steiner has some of the best glass in the business, in my opinion. I'm gonna have to look at Arken if you're saying it's comparable.
@@michaelcerrone1482 I looked through both at the same time at 400 yds, 700 yds and 1145yds.. the Arken is not as good but its not far off. My Steiner is not 4 times better, not even 2 times better.
My Steiner definitely tracks well. Arken tracks well too.
Glass quality for me Steiner is a 9, in comparison to a Tangent Theta or a S&B.
The Arken is like a 7 or 7.5 in glass quality compared to a Tangent.... My only gripe is I dont like the reticle.
imo.. the T6Xi is my fav scope period.. the turrets are amazing, it tracks perfect, glass is great. Lifetime warranty as well.
Arken EP5 is best sub $1000 scope
Leupold MK4HD and Steiner T6Xi are the best sub $2000 scopes
and the best ever is Tangent Theta..
@@michaelcerrone1482 Eurooptic I
think has the 5-30
Shooting 300 WinMag on a light weight hunting rifle, made me learn to shoot with 10x at 1,500 yards, and 12x at 1 mile. I use the high magnification only for target verification.
Agreed, less magnification and prioritize better glass clarity
Mark from Mark and Sam after work shoots amazing distances with scopes that generally top out at less than 20x. Even out to a mile and beyond.
Yes, but they hold over using the reticle to achieve greater range.
@@sdpy15 Magnification has nothing to do with holdovers. Overall elevation travel is what limits that.
@@gamelord1000did you even watch the video? lmao. magnification most certainly affects how much you can hold over
Mark and Sam are legends at extreme long range❤
@@sdpy15doesn’t matter holdover or full dial….if you know what you are doing you could do either no issues
So far, my first gen ep5 has been great. I had got it for my ar10 6.5 cm build. Very rarely do I ever shoot at 25x on that thing, and it's less recoil then my 7mm or 300, and those have gen 3 razors, which is 36x. I definitely agree it's nice if you need more, but realistically, I'm not shooting on such high magnification.
Awesome video. I hope it helps a lot of newer shooters coming into high magnification optics. Also i hate how arken automatically has a 25% discount code on their page to use. I always tp code and tell others to make sure to use also. That way you get the coin!
I've never shot out past 400 because its hard to find a range longer than 100 here in Indiana without driving well over an hour and I'm a busy guy. Id like to see a video from you on dialing out to 1k with a zero of 1-200. I feel like you'd put it in terms that I could understand better than the other videos I've seen. Ive been watching your stuff for a few years now and I've enjoyed every one you put out.
I was just about to get started on my precision shooting journey and asked this question yesterday because I know literally nothing 😂 Perfect timing
Get a 5-25x56 ep5 with good rings! You’ll be set.
G'day, I have one on a Desert Tech SRS A2 in .300win, with this exact scope in milrad, shooting at 1000m I only wind it up to around x20 to 25x, where the x35 comes in handy is checking the fall of shot on target, you don't need a spotting scope, just wind the scope up to x35 you can see the hits on the target.
Great discussion. For me, I want my scope to have 3x - 5x on the low end, and as high I can get on the high end of the zoom range.
I have a Vortx 65 36 x 55. I think I love the thing I use it to spot for other people they can’t see where their shots are going.
Very high magnification has two downsides.
1. It compresses a lot of air/atmosphere into the image, over long distance, which causes terrible mirage and makes the image dark and fuzzy.
2. It massively amplifies the smallest movements, making the image incredibly jittery, which then makes it difficult to see the image and can be hard on the eyes.
I shot a 16x scope to 2000 yds and had no issues with it. IMO, 24x or so is about the realistic max magnification that is usable in the field or at very long distances. I'm sure a whole ton of people who never shoot past 500 yds are gonna come along and tell me I'm wrong though.
I am of the thought that you can’t use extra magnification if you don’t have it. Whether it’s a 6-24x or a 8-42x, BOTH have 24x. But the 8-42x has much more if needed. No one is forcing you to use it.
That can come with downsides. No free lunch.
@@JimYeats other than cost, I don’t really see any downsides. Please elaborate.
@@sirtango1 Weight, complexity, and depending on the quality of the scope, overall clarity and eye box suffers by having that higher magnification available.
@@JimYeats Gotcha, to me the weight doesn’t matter that much. Complexity unless you’re using a certain magnification for ranging you have to pay attention. It’s easy to range something at a higher power and forget to turn it back down for ranging. I have done that before just plinking. Thankfully I have never done that in a tournament or match. YET! Clarity goes with the quality of the glass, but light transmission decreases as higher power magnification settings are used. The eye box is pretty minimal, thankfully I’ve never suffered from scope eye from any of my bigger bores. I just like having the option to crank up the scope and have a closer look if need be. I run heat shields on my long range guns to cut down the mirage effects. But to me i’m the better to have it and not need it crowd. I have a 42x power scope on my match .22. It’s far more impressive watching a “huge” hole get blown in the target than punching holes with a Lahti or Solothurn! 😂 And the .22lr has SLIGHTLY less recoil than the 20mm’s! 🤣🤣 Keep ‘em in the 10 ring!
@@sirtango1 I mean the complexity of the scope increases and internals have to be adjusted as significant magnification range changes occur. So, durability suffers is what I meant.
I have a vortex razor gen 3 6-36 on my 300 PRC. I love maxing it out to group at 100 yards. It’ll let you know real quick if you’re having any fundamental issues that need to be addressed.
This is a great "Why didn't I think of that?" video.
Your videos are consistently high quality.
May I ask what microphone and camera you are using?
I'm a big fan of Arken myself. I own 3 of their scopes. My only concern is that they need more personnel. Every scope I've ordered from them has taken 6 to 8 weeks delivery time. Other than that, you can't beat the quality, especially for the price.
Recently got the EP 8 for my 14.5" 5.56 build and it's been an awesome LPVO so far. Only complaint is the reticle takes a little bit of getting used to. Overall very impressed with the quality and feature set for the price point
I was just requesting you to review this scope on the comments on another of your videos! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I wish arken had a 2-10/12 x30ish...i would pick one up !
totally agree that to much magnification can be a problem but when combined with field of view. my lr scope is the leupold mk4 8-25 and 25 is to narrow at a mile. my magic number is 18 but if i had a scope with a wider field of view a higher magnification would be good.
I don’t shoot very long range or worry about groups less than 10” (usually 600 yards or less). I follow Ryan Cleckner’s recommendation and stick with 10x (not-variable).
My view is if you have a high magnification you utilize it as a spotting scope application on your targets to view in. Besides that you cant see where your bullet is landing.
For shooting 22lr past 100y I take all the magnification I can get. Usually shooting at paper, so it's the only way to see holes. At 200m, 30x is just adequate for me to see holes, anything beyond I'd need to check with a spotting scope. Getting parallax properly adjusted at full magnification at that range is a challenge... it focuses slightly better at 25x.
Centerfire shooting 300-1000y I was surprised how unusable 25x (max mag.) was. FOV was so small misses were nearly impossible to see unless they were right next to the plate. Mirage became a real issue after just a few shots. Backing it off to 16x I could walk it out to 1000y no problem.
I think buying more magnification that you need is important when buying mid-tier to budget optics. Every scope generally suffers from a decrease in optical clarity when you get close to the maximum magnification. So if you really want to shoot at 15x but you don’t want to pay for the super high quality glass then getting a max range of up to 25x is a good plan. The optical clarity in that scope will probably be at its best around 15x.
Also, many first focal plane scopes are near unusable below 10x power because the reticle becomes so fine.
Now for the real high power scopes look at the F-Class guys. March makes one that goes to 80x.
Good video btw. I need to get my hands on that new arken to see how it compares to the Bushnell Match Pro ED. If it’s near the optical clarity of the Bushnell it is one heck of a deal at the discounted price.
We normally hang out around 16x around 1000 yards but have also shot
With a fixed 10 power at 1k easily.
Just saw a video a few days ago about the March X Majesta, with the highest Magnifification available at 8-80x56. March would probably send you one for testing.
It’s a $4300 scope. Not sure how many they’d be sending out for testing. Seems like they designed it specifically for F-Class since it’s got 1/8” MOA adjustments.
@@austinkroe the guy in the Video did not have many followers. Like 5k. Might be worth a shot for Education purposes.
@@lethPointer totally fair. I’d be stoked if someone handed me one to play with for a while. If Texas Plinking wants one I hope they send him one. Just thought it was such a specialized scope the company might be stingy. But you better bet if he makes a video on one I’d be watching.
Great explanation and video; thanks.
It's been crazy hot in Texas, stay safe brother
Love the channel, greetings from Sweden!
This is a very good video! Budgets are not always robust.
Really good info for new distance shooters.
Idk if you are into testing a gun theory. But could you test out group size differences when placing a foregrip in the middle of the rail and when its closest to the magazine and post a video on it. All you would need is 2 different target papers, stand up shooting at 100 yards too see if foregrip position really does change group sizes and I guess 20 bullets per target. Thanks for reading this.
I know this effect has some merit to it because if you place a bipod on a rifle it changes the accuracy of the rifle, but since gun fighting is more common at less than 100 yards than at 300 yards it would be a more practical video.
I was definitely expecting something like a March 8-80x, not a 7-35x 😂 have been very tempted by the new Arkens!
"donating money to the berm" 🤣 I'm gonna have to start using that
great stuff, definitely considering this glass for a new 6.5 build
was about to buy the ep5 . glad i saw this video, but they're not available in the uk yet so guess ill have to wait.
The telescope joke was me too 😂
I like to watch me shooting the orange out of the target at 200 yards with centerfire and 100 yards at 100... I have the Arken at 25 power and only complaint is the eye box, but nothing one can't adjust to and like it as it is a value... Also, like their 20-moa mount.
The reason for large magnification or something similar to 7-35x magnification is not only that you can use 35x (which you shouldnt use 99 percent of the time) but because you can put your scope in middle range of that magnification which in this case would be (7+35)/2= 21 so in other words you could now use your scope on magnifications close to 21x (20;19;18) which is way more workble magnification while having the best eye relief and picture quality on your scope. When you use your scope on max magnification there is a point where you start decreasing the eyebox size as well as decreasing the picture quality. So basicslly if you prefer shooting using lets say 10x magnification, than you should get something in range of 4-16x mag.
This video hits differently now. Knowing the Series will be changing next year
Time for a scope cam!
What brand hat is that? Living in Texas I’m sure you have some American hat company ones? Straw hats are underrated for how cool they keep you outside in hot weather.
If you can see 5 on your scope but you need 10 you can aim with your 5 and look up at your cross hair and then put your 5 where your cross hair was. Now its 10. Like using your 60 yard pin on a bow as an 80 yard pin.
I'd love to see a review of the 8-80x56mm Majesta..
Another great Video
Thank you Brandon
Handloaded rounds may not fit in the mag because some load to have the projectile sitting closer to the lands when chambered. This makes the cartridge to long to fit in the mag.
i bought one regardless., may as well. i love arken scopes. i have 4 so far. 5 when i get this one. :)
I have a 4-16x. If I’m target shooting I’m at 16. If I’m hunting I’m at 6. Both at 100 yards.
The main reason people single load cartridges has nothing to do with cool, number of rounds predicted, or jarring the bullet. Handloaders tend to seat bullets closer to the lands and grooves as they dial in seating depth. Most magazines will not hold these longer cartridges and force you to load without a magazine.
Slick setup, wondering what stock brand that might be?