Replacing leaking prop shaft oil seals on an outboard motor
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- Опубліковано 7 вер 2024
- When the gearbox oil on an outboard either leaks out entirely or gets emulsified, it is generally because on or more of the oil seals have failed. In this case it is the oil seals around the prop shaft of a Yamaha outboard have been damaged by fishing line.
This video covers removing the bearing carrier from the gearbox, removing the oil seals and then installing the new ones. The final step before putting new oil back in the gearbox is to pressure test the gearbox to make sure the fix has worked.
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I’m sure you know this but for those who don’t, remove one or both of the oil filler screws as these create a vacuum if in place and makes it much harder to remove the oil seal/bearing housing.
I own a Mobile Marine Business in Maine and have watched alot of videos over the years. Yours are balanced, focused, and extremely helpful. Thank you.
+Seth Richardson Thanks Seth, great to hear that the videos have been of value. :)
What a nostalgic video for me! When I was a younger man, I had acquired a boat with a 1972 85 HP Evinrude electric shift motor. I made my own truarc pliers and home made pulley pullers to get the thing torn down just to adjust the electric shift controller. I spent many late Friday nights tearing the lower unit apart so I can make it to the lake for the weekend. Needless to say, Evinrude finally discontinued the electric shift and went back to manual shift. I would have loved to had a video like this back then! It would have saved me many headaches of trying to figure it all out. Keep up the good work!
I know you put this up a long time ago, but I wanted to thank you for the info on the pressure testing! You've saved me a TON of money! Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU!!! I can't find anyone to work on the older engines, especially 2 strokes! Your channel had helped me out IMMENSELY!!!
You're welcome mate, glad the vid helped you. :)
great video Dangar. thanks so much. you helped me all the way thru a complete rebuild of my 1992 Evinrude 60hp 2 stroke. did it all myself and watching your videos. never did it before and the motor runs fantastic now. had to re-sleeve the cylinders, new piston/rings, re-build carbs, everything. set the timing, and it runs better than ever. now the oil seals leak, so no problem, i'll get right on it. thank you so much, your methods and instruction are superb. fyi....i bought this old 1992 bass tracker with 60hp evinrude, knowing it needed re-build on the motor, total purchase 1000 $, after complete restoration of motor, spent 1909 $ on re-building the motor, did it all myself. total cost for the complete boat restored 2909 $, that's it. its a 14,000 $ boat new or 7,000-8,000 used. too cool !!!
Nice work on the restoration Paul. Glad the vids helped you. :)
I'll tackle this with cautious confidence now Stu! Many thanks.
Your videos are the best resource out there in my opinion. I haven't had a boat for 30 years and just ventured back in with a 'Project'. If only I had this resource in 1988!
Thanks David, good luck with the job. :)
Great video. Thank you for taking the time to share your skills with us.
Thanks Christopher, you're most welcome. :)
This was the first video i watched.
It was the start of my obsession with This channel. 😂😂
Been watching since and love every bit of this channel.
#teamdangarstu🤙
Thanks mate, glad you've been enjoying the vids. :)
Chrisco maggi ค
Great videos great eye opener for people that own a boat but have no skills on repairs at least you know what your local shop is talking about and not getting ripped off thanks
Thanks Eduardo, glad the videos have been helping you. As you say, even if you don't do the job yourself it is always great to understand what is involved so you can talk about it with the mechanic.
Good service to the boating community this channel is.
Thanks mate. :)
Hi mate, just some feedback that your vids are bloody awesome. Your a legend and thanks for taking the timeout to share them.
+bundaberg440ml Thanks mate, you're welcome, glad you like the vids. Have a Bundy for me! ;)
Once again, a great help to me! Thanks for sharing all of your expertise! Your videos are making it a lot easier for me to service and fix my three outboard motors!
You're welcome Greg, I'm glad the vids have been helping you.
Excellent video Stu. Last time I had this done on a mercuiser out drive, I dropped the lower unit off at the dealer and had them reseal it. If my Yamaha ever needs it I'll now do it myself and use this video as a guide!
Thanks mate, sure hope the vid helps you with your Yamaha. :)
You are so good and your videos are carefully explained. Me and some friends bought a boat with an evinrude 140 with practically little experience with outboards. However your videos are teaching us so much that we look forward to learning and maintaining our engine. Thanks so much for your efforts
Thanks Juan, glad to hear the videos are teaching you. Have fun with your new boat! :)
Oh the joys of salt water corrosion! Worked on these motors when I was young, we groaned every time a lower end job came into the shop! Good job Dangar Marine! :)
+FSAUDIOGUY Yes, particularly these boats that live their entire life in salt water, never being pulled out and put on a trailer except to be fixed. ;)
Watching your entire series! You do great work..your videos are very informative and well done! Cheers from the Salty East Coast U.S.A.!
Thanks mate, glad you are enjoying the vids. Have fun out on the water this spring! :)
Another excellent video. I must comment on your patience and ingenuity in tackling this task. I think I would have exhausted a large part of my less-polite vocabulary when encountering such problems. I also appreciate the use of purpose built home tools in this application. Thank you for posting this.
+David Holmes Hi David. I just edit out my more colourful explosions. ;) It's also a coincidence that you should mention the tools as just yesterday I bought the original Yamaha ones. Of course that doesn't mean it isn't still going to take a whole load of head and huffing and puffing! Thanks for watching, Stu
Excellent video! We're doing 'surgery' on the lower unit of our 70 hp '04 Yamaha. Got to get the Woodruff key out first...it's being stubborn. We're going to re-seal everything since it appears to have never been into, plus it started leaking oil out of the water inlet holes.
Top videos Stu, keep them coming, you have increased my knowledge of outboards, particularly two strokes. As the previous person mentioned you have started a bit of an obsession. Being a boater here in the UK I have always paid someone else to do what I am perfectly capable of doing myself. Your videos show “the hows” perfectly and I now feel confident in tackling most tasks.
Your videos have been helpful. Very helpful. Just did year end service and discouraged to find water in lower unit oil. This video is very encouraging will get on it with a lot more confidence. Thanks so much. Jay
Bowdoinham Maine USA
You're welcome Jay. It's a very common problem and no big deal to fix.
First, thanks for taking the time to record and share this video. My 1996 Evinrude 88 is leaking oil at the prop shaft. I'm going to pull the prop and take a look at the seals (as best I can) and make a decision on which way I need to go with this issue.
This doesn't look to difficult, if I don't get in a hurry. Cheers.
Hi mate, as you say, it isn't rocket science, it can just be stubborn and patience is the only way.
Thanks you really helped us out man. Great lesson keep it up. Hi from TEXAS
Glad to help!
Youre a legend ive learnt so much watching you. I found you a few weeks ago when looking for hesdgasket on a 2 stroke 15hp 99 johnson. Which i just completed the head gasket replacement with some help from a knowledgeable friend. But did the waterpump proudly all on my own . Thanks mate. Love the vids your style of delivery and always fun when adrian comes along 😄 ill watch any thing youve made. Must of watch over 50 videos since finding u . Thanks Stu
Where has this channel been? FANTASTIC! THANKS FRIEND from USA MICHIGAN.
It is hard to find the channels you need sometimes. Viewers sharing the link with other boaters is the best way to get the word out there. ;)
Nice job. I purchased a boat many years ago that the lower unit leaked. I did the job myself and i still have the boat. I wish i watched your video first lol. I looked it up because i have another to do. The evinrudes I have worked on have a special sealant and not the small orings like the Yamaha you worked on.Wish me luck!
Thanks Paul, good luck! :)
just started watching your videos. I enjoy them and find your procedures very helpful. Would like to ask you about a problem I encountered (years ago now). I purchased a new (to me) boat and outboard motor in 1997 to be used fishing in Florida. Boat had been used around New foundland. Everything about the boat was excellent except the stainless steel prop. When I accepted delivery I couldnt remove the prop. No problem, i thought, just get it home and use some proper tools to remove it. I couldnt. Many years later, and multiple dealers later, still unable to remove prop. So, finally I said to myself, I really should get at those seals now. This motor is a 75 hp Honda 4-stroke, and I love it. Out came my torch and big old rubber mallet. I applied heat to that pretty stainless steel hub, more heat, hit from behind with mallet, smoke and fire everywhere, more heat and then pfft a flame shot out and that rubber hub was a smoldering mess on my shop floor. Lower unit has been fully serviced and there is an aluminum prop on the shaft, which probably wont last too long in that sandy water the boat runs in. My question to you is about rehubbing that $400 SS prop I now use for a paper weight. Is this a DIY project, or is it best to send it out? If possible to DIY are you familiar with procedure?
+Conrad Bruckert From what I've been told this is very tricky to do. I spoke to a very experienced Yamaha mechanic and he said that even with an alignment tool he couldn't push the new one in and have the prop run without bad vibration.
just a fyi,at the factory when these are installed new,grease is applied to the inner lip to lubricate at start up,first rotation.it adds longevity to the seals.ive seen this at the mercury plant...thank you for the videos!
Yeah, a little bit of start up lubrication is a good thing, I should have mentioned it.
Terrific video Bud,, just as it happens with the odd gnarly thrown in. Very much appreciated.
Thanks Gary, it sure doesn't often go to plan when salt water is in the equation.
Great vid, however, I would recommend when tapping in new seals place carrier on a piece of wood, not so good having the gear on the concrete floor and hammering down the new seals...ouch.
Nice work buddy..lots of info and delivered in a sensible way...no B.S.....love your work....
Thanks Brian! :)
Hi, thank you for your video.
I had oil leakage problem few days before Greek vacation, so I did it without removing the end flange. I bought just one sealing, drilled hole to old sealing with 2mm drill, I screwed the wood bolt to this hole and pull the sealing out. It is quick way to repair leakage, when you dont have time for complete demontage.
+Michal Rimmerak Hi Michal. Yep that sure is another option. It is a little risky if you aren't careful, but when the bearing carrier is this hard to get out it might be a better option. When you are dealing with old outboards there is always the risk that something will break and which parts you risk over others will depend on their relative values and availability in your area. Glad to hear you got yours fixed. :)
Thrust me, I´m glad to fixed it too :-)
S
Michal Rimmerak
Excellent videos, very well done. Your detail is much appreciated unlike many of the others that don't take you through the compete procedure. I am about ready to replace the drive shaft on an old Mercury 9.8 that is pitted at the seal point, I may replace the other seals also after seeing your videos. Thanks
Glad the to hear the videos have been helping you. It is probably worth replacing them all while you have the leg off. It is always a nice feeling to know everything is in top shape and ready for another couple of years of boating. :)
Since it's not a bearing surface, would JB weld or similar, applied to pits, then smoothed down, work/hold up sealing a prop shaft?
RichE
Thank you! This will help tremendously in looking into the gearbox for a Honda BF225, they look pretty similar. However, with the terrible grinding noises it made coming back into the slip and metal bits coming out with the water when drained, I may be beyond replacing the oil seals. (Heavy mono fishing line was the culprit)
Ouch, yes, that doesn't sound great. Once you've got it appear you will be able to see what is going on though. All the components are available for separate purchase so it will be fixable.
You have the best marine channel....hands down. Can you make a video about setting the shift shaft to the proper position?? Often times, the lower unit will not get in or will be installed in gear if that shift shaft moves. Just seems to jump into forward gear. Then you need to find neutral (if removed in neutral). To do this, the shaft needs to be set in neutral to match the shifter. It seems you did this but it was not shown in the video. Great job with your videos. You explain tasks clearly and concisely.
You can also replace the seals without removing the casting as you did. Tap 2 screws into the seal (opposite) then screw in the screws a turn or 2 then simply pry out~ do this with both seals. I would recommend using the right size PVC pipe to drive in the new seals to prevent damage. This is all done with the prop shaft in place, as well as the carrier (casting)
New subscriber here from Oklahoma. Thank you for all your time and effort you put into your videos it is really appreciated...👍
Welcome aboard!
thanks for the quick response. it was a white can that had orange numbers on it I couldn't make out the first part but the last numbers were something -56. you sprayed it on the gear case housing to get the bearing carriage out after attaching the pully
It was this stuff www.gotstock.com.au/crc-5005-07-5-56.html?gclid=CjwKEAjw8da8BRDssvyH8uPEgnoSJABJmwYoD6iOr-yi9xGMQuzJcwTSlML7lSzkjEA2pqT51w_cJBoCqQLw_wcB
Good job that happen to me ALL the time something so easy.Get so hard, patient is a venture. Just take your time 😉. Keep up the good work love the Challenge..
Thanks . Just mountet new lower unit gasket kit, on my 8 hp yamaha. Super video . Bedst regards from Denmark 🇩🇰🇩🇰🇩🇰
you were first a car mechanic. then you made money. then got a house and a boat, then you love tinkering.
im the exact same! great videos. love the real step by step!
lets see a video welding up dog teeth in the stripped forward etc and back filing with a little jig?
Thanks mate, tinkering is always good fun. :)
marine mechanics are way more fun and somehow feels more rewarding 👍
Awesome videos.. thanks!! I just replaced my impeller and the gears are not engaging. Guess I'll have to take it back down and check my alignment or the gear selector. Thanks for the Ratchet strap idea too. Heavy 115 hp lower unit .
Hey mate in the process now best video iv seen are you just heating with a blow torch
Thank you. Great to see how this is done and even though I have a manual watching someone do it is terrific...have a great new year and thanks again
Thanks mate, happy New Year!
Hi Stu, Great tutorials :) Thanks for sharing youre time and knowledge,very generous of You :)
Thanks Trevor, glad you've been enjoying the vids. :)
Great video and a wonderful summary at the end. I'm so glad I found this channel. You have a new subscriber. Thank you
Thanks mate, great to have you on board! :)
I'm out trolling fishing and watching your videos while fishing and cruising along hahah and just have the danger shirt on speaking of
Enjoy! And thanks for supporting the channel. :)
good video it was a pain in the ass but u did it. thank u for the time u expend showing us how to do it right...
Thanks Manny, glad you liked it. :)
your a gentleman and a scholar for what you do
G'day Stu. Great to see your sharing the info with general public. As we all know a little bit of knowledge can be dangerous. I've spent the 54 years working on marine engines , drives , installations, servicing, general maintainence and also running my own business in the last 28 years. I notice your having a bit of a problem removing the bearing carrier. Would you be interested in owning quite an assortment stern drive/ outboard McM , Merc, Omc, etc service tools. A fair variety actually. They do make life very easy. Negotiable
Great video, real to the way things often go with a salty outboard, the only thing I do different is I coat all the seals, O-rings and mate surfaces with RTV-black, just that little extra bit of insurance. I think it also helps things slip back into place. kodi
That's a great tip Kodi. I agree that you can't have too much protection from water getting in that gearbox.
Thank you once again for doing an excellent job in explaining everything, very, very helpful
Thanks Gilbert!
Hats off mate!
Cheers from Colorado
Love the vice grip hammer puller❤ cheers mate
I looked at the manual and the cups are actually supposed to be as you said, one with the cup side in and one with it out.
Yes, they are essentially orientated with one to keep oil in and one to keep water out.
I thought I saw that as well. He put them both in cup facing the prop side right? dont they go in back to back so each cup side is facing outward?
oooooops you did it again! Best vids on the net...... you deserve a cold one. Thanks!
Thanks Jim, I think I will have one!
Perhaps you could ask the Machinist that repaired the shift dog, if he could make a slide puller, that would slide just over the prop shaft and two holes on either side of the prop shaft.
Thank you for sharing all your fantastic videos.. iv'e enjoyed them all and have learnt allot at the same time :)
Thanks Paul, glad you've been enjoying the vids. :)
Good video. Like the way you kept your thumb over the broken edge of the bearing carrier when pushing new seals. If you have time can do a vid on connecting the gear rod to the dog on a Suzuki dt55 as you prob know they get pulled out when people remove gear box and drop it down without disconnecting rod at engine side and the ball bearings and springs drop in the bottom. Got two that need repair.
A Bench and a large vice will work wonders under a good light...
my friend just thought I would feel you in I like to learn something every day .Today I learned it's best to leave one plug out drain or fill.Mine made a vacuum sound after she broke free ges seals was good ayy .live learn was a R&R man at a transmission shop yrs ago.never to wise..
Hey Derrick, that's a great tip. If that o-ring is still sealing really well the vacuum will only make it harder. Nice one!
Awesome video, very thorough. Learned allot. Thank you sir!!!
Thanks Stu! Another good vid, keep them coming !!!
+Paul Skinner Thanks Paul, will do!
I noticed antifouling paint on the lower and transom bracket. My lower is seriously corroded because the previous owner used a copper based bottom paint on my aluminum alloy lower unit. The dissimilar metal created an electrolysis condition that accelerated corrosion.
bonsoir merci pour tout ce que vous faites pour nous remettre a niveau
Vous êtes les bienvenus. :)
Ah ok is that it. Cheers.
Brilliant videos mate, thanks for your help.
Damn your good enjoy your great help .take care Chris from Vandalia ohio USA
May have to try the hammer technique. Replaced my prop shaft. Noticed after some runs that the fluid in the lower unit was completely emulsified when I pulled it. Replaced it and ran some seafoam through the motor to clean out some carbon. Had one of the bolts on the bearing carrier pop off. When I torqued those bolts back down, the prop didn't spin easily at all when in neutral. So I took the gearbox and prop off and have been trying to remove the bearing carrier. Really really stuck! Guess it may be time for heat or hammers. Am already using wd40 to try to get it loose.
yes the bearing carrier can be a problem,i have seen corrosion crack the housing
It sure can, it's amazing how bad it can get some times.
Thanks a lot you cut my guesswork
You're welcome. :)
my lower unit is definitely fried, grinding quite a bit in neutral. based of how it sounded i just ordered another lower unit when i looked at the parts list part are quite expensive.
Yes, parts like that are very expensive. Outboard wreckers generally are the way to go.
thanks for that boat engine knowledge course I knew that the escape was to and that I was
Love the vid mate, question do I need to put any oil, or grease on the seals before put them in.. Thanks for another great video!!! Thanks Robert
You can put a bit of either for sure to help with any wear on startup.
Nice work, bet you enjoyed that beer. Q. Is it possible loosen up that housing by twisting it around the prop shaft?
It is physically possible, but there is the risk of breaking whichever part you lever against.
Hi stu great thumb placement lol
Great video... needed to know what I was getting into. I haven't got the tools (gear puller/torque wrench et al) and will have to take it in. grrr....
It can be tough, or it can go quite smoothly. Bear in mind this is a was about as stuck as bearing carriers get and that pullers can be found for under $100.
Nice video. I'm doing the same job on my Johnson 15. My oil seal is giving me all kinds of grief.
Nevermind. Heat motivated it.
Glad you got it sorted (sorry, it takes me a while to get through comments)
Heat and a hammer.. it's like magic.
It would be nice to point it out that puller tool on some Yamahas only useful on standard (RH) rotation unit. In case when we get LH (counterrotating) unit. we have to pull out prop shaft and carrier all together. After that we have to disassemble it with press and few other tools. In other words, prop shaft and carrier bolted together. Given that, trying to disassemble it with puller tool which is pushing into prop to pull out carrier shell could result on breaking ether tool or prop shaft carrier case (that I almost did).
After all. it would be nice to get a video showing what it takes to change a prop seals on counterrotating unit of Yamaha (let us say F225 2004)
Good work around. MONEY SAVER!
very useful
Thanks Mirko. :)
If a "fishing line cutter plate" is at the back of propeller, it may help not trapping fishing line into the shaft seal. (steel line is an issue)
I've never experimented with one myself but I'd be keen to give one a try.
Old video i know, but be careful torquing the prop nut like you did there. You’ve over torqued that nut as you choked down on the torque wrench handle. With a click style torque wrench it’s important you hold the wrench on the knurled handle bit for an accurate reading. The more you choke down your grip the more you are over torquing the fastener.
I mean just looking into the housing after I pull it out of water. Maybe it's the o-ring letting oil around to the outside? Been watching your videos. Great job. TY!
If the gearbox oil isn't cloudy inside the gearbox then it may just be oil from the fuel, particularly if it is a two stroke.
I have always installed pil seaps back to bqck or the lipss facing water & other facing oil. Saw this and questioned it. I can't the answer for a 01 honda bf90 lol.
again great help, thanks for sharing
You're welcome Pierre.
Just took one bearing cover out with an angle grinder and drill. It came out.
Good video mate👌
Thanks 👍
Another great video, thanks
I have a used 1992 60hp Johnson, it runs strong and shifts fine. The other day I was going to change the oil in the lower unit and nothing but water came out. Should I now change all bearings and seals?
Thanks for the video you explain so nice 👍
You're welcome Hector.
Having trouble with my 200 Johnson oil seals bearing housing has broken down and no real OD for oil seals to seat. 2004 having trouble finding new replacement. Going to try to remove and machine to smooth end on housing. I plan to braze weld a machined piece to this surface that will house the new oil seals. I have never seen a housing break down like this leaking really bad. Hope this method works. Please offer suggestions if any better ideas are available. Thanks Terry
some great videos, Thankyou very helpful
Thanks Billy, glad to hear the videos are helping you. :)
I have gear oil spatter coming out of the water pump while it’s running . Does that mean my upper seals are pooched and need to be replaced? It then leaks out of the drain hole in the lower drain hole .
Thanks for the videos. Very detailed and easy to follow. You know your stuff.
Hey Stu, question for you, if you removed the gearbox in forward gear. Can you remove the bearing carrier and replace seals then put all back together and leave in forward gear ?
The seals come out without having to take the bearing housing out. I make a lot of money charging hours to do a 30 min job because you get fishing line in the prop shaft and don’t no any better
It’s “know,” not “no.”
thank you for posting
Thanks for watching!
Does it Matter that you cracked the top piece of the housing? You did a fantastic job hiding it with your thumb but just wondering if that would effect the performance at all.
No, any chip aft of the oil seal won't affect performance at all.
Good job for Hacks.. but hack or not ,you should grease up the new seals. And install with some gasket sealer..😉
Your a champ Stue😊😊
Champions champions champions!!!
Try after seals in that you use soap and water pressure testing with the prop off the shaft. You forgot to test the prop shaft for out of roundness otherwise you will take your seals out
I sometimes use soapy water to find which seal is leaking, but prefer a straight 10PSI test for checking integrity of the seals. With reasonably new outboards where the seal has clearly been cut by fishing line I'm not worried about roundness, a sharp nick would be something I look for.
Make a video and show us please!