@@mylarmelodies Yes, the fundamentals are all there. I wish I could say that without exception, I use ventilation, but I often get carried away when I get a new kit on the table. Hahaha
quick comment: most better soldering stations like weller temperature controlled ones already come with a cleaning sponge that's inside (below) the holder for the iron. they also have holes for multiple tips, so you can quickly change out tips if you need to. that being said; you're absolutely right. 95% of the time you'll want to use one that kinda looks like a flat screw tip. they come in various sizes, bent or straight etc. depending on how fine (small) the work you're doing is. these are awesome and can be very useful if you need to switch from soldering an audio part to an electronics part thats much smaller like a usb connector etc. - a really good weller station that you can set on 1 degree centigrade steps costs like 250eu when I bought it, recently checked: they're now less than 180eur. so if you're planning on doing this long term, don't buy three soldering irons but a good one where you have standardized tips you can change. weller has a catalouge of a few hundered different tips for different purposes from very very very small smd stuff to big electrical wire soldering. just my input. it will set you back 100eur/usd more probably but it's well worth it as replacement parts are actually very cheap (like the metal cleaning sponge). I actually bought a second one just like the one you have in case I ever need to change mine or want to have a "cleaning station" on the right where my solder iron holder and temperature control is and on the left. getting a heat resistant soldering mat is also a very cheap and worthwhile investment. they cost 20eur/usd from amazon and have small pockets for parts, resistors, a few rows of intendations to plug in tweezers, clippers and other tools you may need at some point to bend a resistor, clip the remaining connector wire etc. you can even find soldering mats with magnetic "charging" stations so you can magnetize your tools to easily grab screws and other parts that may have fallen into the unit you're soldering or in case the screw is so small you want to magnetize it to keep it straight when screwing in a front plate, some knobs or whatever. all in all this will set you back maybe 40eurs including a nice pack of tweezers and a good wire clipper and stripper. I recommend getting a small fan with a filter for the solder smoke. they really help, you can build them yourself from computer fans and active charcoal. but a finished unit in a nice housing also will only cost 30-40eur/usd depending on where you buy. that's it from me. thanks for putting up a video like this as an introduction, i'll use it to get some of my more tech savvy customers aquainted with soldering so they can fix basic things themselves without having to pay anyone for a 15min job. :)
oh one more thing: if you stay with building audio DIY kits it's a good idea to get a proper multimeter and testing kit for the parts you're building.. the shop that sells the kit will have these parts for sale (e.g. a stereo 500 dual slot unit for calibration with measurement points easily accesible, a breakout cable if you want to work out of your 500 series chassis etc.). I can also HIGHLY recommend the picoscope 2204a - it's the cheapest of their USB osciloscopes and comes with software for win, osx and linux including datalogger, serial decoding and a lot of other things you'd expect from 700eur/usd MSO oscis. they work great and are small and portable. you can take them along to a customers studio if you need to check some signals/waveforms etc. and are 20% smaller and lighter than most common multimeters. they cost around 130eur/usd and it's been one of the best investments in the past few years. The software and UI/UX is incredible. if you're a developer, it has a full sdk to automate or extend functionality. but the basic osci interface is already VERY sophisticated and you can do everything by mouse/trackpad instead of fiddling with knobs on a 8kg oscilloscope, for audio the 2000 series is more than enough if you're not planning on building a ADC DAC with madi and toslink any time soon: www.picotech.com/oscilloscope/2000/picoscope-2000-overview - 2204a is the cheapest option and right for the job. don't worry about getting a high bandwidth or super big sampling rate / depth one. you won't need to decode a computer bus or interface nor VHF communications :)
Perfect timing for me. Just got my first DIY kits in the mail a few days ago. Your explanation of the basic technique is very clear. While searching for brass cleaner, I also came across tip tinnier. Have you ever used that?
@@mylarmelodies So, I finished soldering a 2HP attenuator after watching the first 20 minutes of this, and it worked! Went much smoother with your advice. Hershey's kisses, man. Thanks.
“Pee-quid”? Haha! You are unequivocally a brilliant fella, I’ve learned so much from your videos and appreciate it so much but sometimes you crack me up with your pronunciation of certain words(“Geer-row” also stands out in past vids I’ve dug of yours). Really thank you for all the help, you are such a great resource and fount of information-no disrespect but you will crack me up every once in a while. Cheers and THANK YOU. NAI
Tip: Use a multimeter to measure the resistance of the resistor. Much faster and more secure identification.
As someone who has trained soldering soldiers many times, I am thoroughly pleased with this introduction.
Thanks!! Do you agree with the points?! Other than using a multimeter to check resistor values, I'm grateful for any tips
@@mylarmelodies Yes, the fundamentals are all there. I wish I could say that without exception, I use ventilation, but I often get carried away when I get a new kit on the table. Hahaha
quick comment: most better soldering stations like weller temperature controlled ones already come with a cleaning sponge that's inside (below) the holder for the iron. they also have holes for multiple tips, so you can quickly change out tips if you need to. that being said; you're absolutely right. 95% of the time you'll want to use one that kinda looks like a flat screw tip. they come in various sizes, bent or straight etc. depending on how fine (small) the work you're doing is. these are awesome and can be very useful if you need to switch from soldering an audio part to an electronics part thats much smaller like a usb connector etc. - a really good weller station that you can set on 1 degree centigrade steps costs like 250eu when I bought it, recently checked: they're now less than 180eur. so if you're planning on doing this long term, don't buy three soldering irons but a good one where you have standardized tips you can change. weller has a catalouge of a few hundered different tips for different purposes from very very very small smd stuff to big electrical wire soldering. just my input. it will set you back 100eur/usd more probably but it's well worth it as replacement parts are actually very cheap (like the metal cleaning sponge). I actually bought a second one just like the one you have in case I ever need to change mine or want to have a "cleaning station" on the right where my solder iron holder and temperature control is and on the left. getting a heat resistant soldering mat is also a very cheap and worthwhile investment. they cost 20eur/usd from amazon and have small pockets for parts, resistors, a few rows of intendations to plug in tweezers, clippers and other tools you may need at some point to bend a resistor, clip the remaining connector wire etc. you can even find soldering mats with magnetic "charging" stations so you can magnetize your tools to easily grab screws and other parts that may have fallen into the unit you're soldering or in case the screw is so small you want to magnetize it to keep it straight when screwing in a front plate, some knobs or whatever. all in all this will set you back maybe 40eurs including a nice pack of tweezers and a good wire clipper and stripper. I recommend getting a small fan with a filter for the solder smoke. they really help, you can build them yourself from computer fans and active charcoal. but a finished unit in a nice housing also will only cost 30-40eur/usd depending on where you buy.
that's it from me. thanks for putting up a video like this as an introduction, i'll use it to get some of my more tech savvy customers aquainted with soldering so they can fix basic things themselves without having to pay anyone for a 15min job. :)
Thanks for all the info Aaron 🙌
oh one more thing: if you stay with building audio DIY kits it's a good idea to get a proper multimeter and testing kit for the parts you're building.. the shop that sells the kit will have these parts for sale (e.g. a stereo 500 dual slot unit for calibration with measurement points easily accesible, a breakout cable if you want to work out of your 500 series chassis etc.). I can also HIGHLY recommend the picoscope 2204a - it's the cheapest of their USB osciloscopes and comes with software for win, osx and linux including datalogger, serial decoding and a lot of other things you'd expect from 700eur/usd MSO oscis. they work great and are small and portable. you can take them along to a customers studio if you need to check some signals/waveforms etc. and are 20% smaller and lighter than most common multimeters. they cost around 130eur/usd and it's been one of the best investments in the past few years. The software and UI/UX is incredible. if you're a developer, it has a full sdk to automate or extend functionality. but the basic osci interface is already VERY sophisticated and you can do everything by mouse/trackpad instead of fiddling with knobs on a 8kg oscilloscope, for audio the 2000 series is more than enough if you're not planning on building a ADC DAC with madi and toslink any time soon: www.picotech.com/oscilloscope/2000/picoscope-2000-overview - 2204a is the cheapest option and right for the job. don't worry about getting a high bandwidth or super big sampling rate / depth one. you won't need to decode a computer bus or interface nor VHF communications :)
Ben's Cameo is the best thing that happened in the last couple weeks
What a great idea to a have a module in a module. Its eurorack inception lol
I hooked an old computer case fan to a USB and keep it on the desk to blow the smoke away without cooling the part.
Ooh great shout! Need me one of those. Or maybe just a USB fan?
Perfect timing for me. Just got my first DIY kits in the mail a few days ago. Your explanation of the basic technique is very clear. While searching for brass cleaner, I also came across tip tinnier. Have you ever used that?
Nice one! I haven't, no! Seems to be fine with basic solder and keeping the end tinned with a blob of solder.
@@mylarmelodies So, I finished soldering a 2HP attenuator after watching the first 20 minutes of this, and it worked! Went much smoother with your advice. Hershey's kisses, man. Thanks.
sounding good through my 8" woofers
“Pee-quid”? Haha! You are unequivocally a brilliant fella, I’ve learned so much from your videos and appreciate it so much but sometimes you crack me up with your pronunciation of certain words(“Geer-row” also stands out in past vids I’ve dug of yours). Really thank you for all the help, you are such a great resource and fount of information-no disrespect but you will crack me up every once in a while. Cheers and THANK YOU. NAI
I build a lot of stuff by DIYRE and it’s fenomenal but I will not compare to my FCS germanium limiter
Wooooooaa yeeaaaah hi!
Please. Can you get Geoff Barrows on the show? He’s be such an interesting guest!
Hah, that would be something...
mylarmelodies it’d be controversial...I know...but interesting. Wonder what the old man yelling at the sky thinks about bleepiby bloops :)
@@piotr803 Two hours of him roasting me, pretty much - maybe we should just give it a go
Stupid person here: what’s the beef there? Old Geoffy hate modular?