BMW 330i 325i E46 Changing Engine and Transmission Mounts DIY
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- Опубліковано 12 бер 2015
- See how I changed the engine and transmission mounts on my 2002 330i E46 BMW in this video with an extremely helpful tip on how to remove the hard to get at nuts on the top of the transmission mounts.
Why would you want to change these mounts, you ask? Well, does your car vibrate like crazy when you're idling at a stoplight? Does it drive you crazy? Well it drives me crazy for sure and I put a stop to it by changing my mounts. Seriously, it feels like a brand new car now!
Harbor Freight Universal Joints #67920:
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Harbor Freight 3/8" Impact Extensions #67926:
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When I buy harbor freight I usually buy the impact stuff because if the steel is cheap and gonna "fail", at least it'll fail by twisting rather than shattering. - Авто та транспорт
The trick is to only unbolt one side at a time. Keep one side bolted, unbolt the other, jack engine up and replace mount. Tighten and then do the other side. You'll have more room to take the mounts out and it will be an easier job. Thanks for vid.
Nice trick, that sounds a lot easier than struggling with a ratchet strap!
You may want to loosen the other side to help get the last few mm of clearance. but they both went in & out w ease. and I did pass side first as driver side is way easier. no need to take tires off either.
Your term of driver side and passenger side kept throwing me off, EU over here eh, good vid. thanks.
Some EU drive on the correct side of the road... 'Murica! ;-)
Everyone in the EU drive on the correct side of the road exept England
I love your videos because you hit speed bumps like the rest of us and don't edit it out. Working on your car isn't always a 30 min episode of Monster Garage, sometimes its a miserable, frustrating, & just a pain in the ass.
Good Work!
Helps to see the real world of it all.
That 13mm - 1/2" break bar combo is genius, gonna have to remember that one!
I just finished this job with the help of this video. Thanks for posting it.
In the interest of adding to the knowledge base, the reason the engine doesn't come up as far on the passenger side likely is not because your driveway is slanted. It's because the engine is slanted and there is a huge weight bias to the right side.
I couldn't get the new mount in on the right side with the engine as high as it would go. So rather than using the come-along method, I removed three of the four bolts holding the aluminum bracket that connects the mount to the engine block.
Nearly 4 years old but still helpful for guys like me struggeling with the questions liek "how the heck is it supposed to be done...?" Thanks a lot for your effort! I'd never have the patience to film and comment while fighting with unbearable mounting positions or unwilling bolts... :-)
About to do this job myself. Thanks for your videos!
For anyone interested in torquing the transmission mounts please read along... Using a 13mm wrench as a crow's foot on a torque wrench will add leverage, thus you will need to do some math depending on your setup. Fortunately there are calculators online, just search "torque crows foot calculator". For example, a 12" wrench attached to a 4" crows foot would require a setting of 12 ft/lbs in order to properly torque a nut to 16 ft/lbs.
Great video! Nice to see that you actually show when the tactic doesn't work, that way it's easier for us to do ourselves at home.
Love your videos. My son got a 2001 325xi for his 16th. We are in the process of installing a new mass air flow sensor and new spark plugs. We are going to change out the motor mounts and shocks and struts. Ive watched a number of your videos. Thanks for making them
Nice DIY video, amazing lighting!!
You also showed case all the emotions we go through while getting our machines serviced, video very well done.
+Luis Hernandez Haha, yep I really did go through all the emotions on that one!
This is on my E46 to do list. Thanks for the great video. Nicely done!
For the transmission mounts I used a long flex head 13mm ratcheting wrench and had no issues. And for the back bolt for the transmission crossmember, I took off the 3 10mm locking nuts holding that section of exhaust shield on and just removed the shielding completely. Then you are able to stick a socket in between the exhaust pipes to get to it. 2002 330i
You make the best e46 videos my man, thank u for your efforts
One hell of a video, definitely going to help me out. Super informative and straight to the point, Love your work 🤟🏼
Good video brother..I have an 04 330i ZHP that I love tinkering with..I remember ppl saying "oh you have a BMW, good luck when it breaks down".. Haha to be honest I've never had a car that was so mechanically friendly. Mine is a manual trans with electrical fan so it's easier to remove it to work in the engine bay.
My car isn't vibrating yet but I think this is the next project for me so thanx for posting this. Sub'd
Jason, you are to much. You really know the e46 to the maximum.
I, have seeing almost all of your videos you are by far the BEST.
CONGRATULATION. !
Hey, your videos are great. Have relied on several of them and my E46 is, consequently, very happy. Thanks!
Thank you!
Thanks a ton for the cargo strap trick. I would have never thought about that and it was definitely necessary. I tried just jacking up one side of the motor while leaving the opposite side mounts still in place (fasteners loosened) but I still couldn't get enough room. 👍🏽👍🏽
Another great video. I know it's a little old but I did mine today - and regarding the engine mounts, as others have said, definitely do the driver's side first. Attach the nuts snug and raise the engine again. I removed the cabin filter housing and there was plenty of room to do the passenger's side. My transmission is a GM and it's a little different. There is no way to access the upper bushing nuts in the transverse direction. I had to lower the transmission so that the nuts were slightly lower than the driveshaft heat shield. Then, I was able to get a short 13mm box wrench in the longitudinal direction to loosen. Not too bad. Tightening actually took longer as my 13mm box wrench is not a ratchet. It is 12 point (which I think helped) and I could only tighten +/- 1/16 of a turn at a time. Anyway, I thought I'd mention that the GM transmission is a little different. Thanks for all you hard work and videos.
Love it that you show the problem areas.
Dude! Amazing video. Every time I want to do something in my 330ci I check your videos, you really take time to explain us how to do it. Keep doing this plz jajajaja.
Congrats from Chile. 👏
Can’t tell you how many times I’ve watched and learned from you, thank you.
Motor Mounts on the E46 are do. Glad I found this Thank You! Wondering if the Engine support bar would do the trick also. Yes as Preston Rahn stated, 1 side at a time.
Great video, thanks for posting. The trick about using the breaker bar was key. I actually used a stubby 13mm wrench which gave more room for the breaker bar
Thanks for your video, I'll tackle the mounts on an X5.
Great Tip on that 13mm-breaker bar combo !!
You saved me with that ratchet strap trick. Z4M engine would just not have enough clearance for the mount due to it leaning heavily towards the passenger side. I put a microfiber cloth between the strap and the fender just in case to protect the paint. Thanks!
Thanks for your help doing this repair. just did this job. Passenger side was super easy and I was surprised. May be it's because my driver side mount and transmission mounts were all broken allowing the motor to tilt freely.
So any one who is struggling to get some clearance may be it's a good idea to loosen up transmission bracket which allows the motor to tilt ( this is my assumption)
BMW Doctor's hate him, use this one weird trick to get your motor mounts out.
Lmaooo!
Sounds like Click Bait
Great tip with the 13" and breaker bar, I was struggling with that same bolt tonight!
that 13 mm half trick is awesome! love ur vids very informative & spot on! thx
+Sean Podrats Yeah I love tricks like that
Thank you for the very helpful video!
I went out and bought an engine support bar just for this job. I'm doing mine with ramps and a creeper in the street. Getting the bottom 16mm wasnt bad with a flex head 1/2" ratchet and a shallow 16. I wasn't getting a 16mm flex impact in there with the suspension compressed. I'm using the support bar and a trolley jack.
Well done, have the parts, going to do it this weekend
13 mm wrench into a 1/2 in breaker bar ... nice. Great video as always.
Nice work! Really appreciate your video series on the E46 and even one or two on the E53 X5. We've got one of each, so thanks!
+Ron Hipwell Hey thanks for watching!
Great vid. I so appreciate seeing the struggle. Helps ease my ego, sometimes I feel like it’s only me that encounters issues. Thanks.
Excellent video , Keep 'em coming .
Yes sir. Good stuff in this video. I have always referred to your videos. You are the king of the E46. I have a 2002 325 but I wouldn’t know what to do if it wasn’t for you completely hit the nail on the head always great video. Keep up the good work.
this saved my ass when i was pulling out a junkyard motor. also not to mention all the other videos that saved my ass when i pulled the engine out in the first place
Excellent presentation as always; thank you! 😎🇩🇪🚙
Great DIY video like always.
Excellent work, will be doing within next couple of months on a e46 ZHP, really appreciate your through approach to all videos and jobs...SUBSCRIBED!!!
thanks!
I'm a fan of your vids! About to do the trans mounts and this vid probably will save me major time and aggravation :-)
Thats a really good tip with the breaker bar and torque wrench!!!
Good shit man good thoses e46 Beamer vids coming 👌
Real cool stuff, you work that like a pro.
I always enjoy your videos...
Thank you very much
And congrats
Great video
The "strap" attached to the wheel saved my bacon today on my 2001 325i Wagon! BTW... My floor was level so I'm not sure why you and I had the same issue with the passenger side motor mount clearance! Thanks again!
+oshis1 Nice!
I waited the whole video for the restart of the car with your words on the background saying, amazing, no more vibration blah blah... :(
Thanks for the video, and yeah, just bolt in the left mount first and all the jacking force will automagically lift the right hand side one ;)
Thank you very much I just loosen up engine mounts and I guess I will finish that part first and then move to the transmission side. Thanks
Very good video. Thanks!
great upload and thanks
Thanks for the help
Good job !
Thanks for the tips. I just replaced someone's entire cooling system and then a few days later they said the all the coolant leaked out turns out one of the pulleys rubbed a hole in the expansion tank. It thought i put the radiator in wrong so i reinstalled it and noticed the engine mounts were broken and the engine came forward
I learned a new from you with that 13mm amd 1/2 trick
love your video help me a lot
Thank you brother . doing coolant hard pipes motor trans diff and subframe bushings in the next couple of days all with your videos. Let me know when your in vegas and I'll buy you a cold one!
damn you. i have to change those too now and i find you again on youtube!
Same exact thing happened to my trans mounts. Crazy thing tho was that my metal trans brace was split in half !?!?! It flabbergasted me considering that the car is just a daily commenter and is completely stock. Regardless, amazing vid thank you ! :)
Wow. Dangerous
Great thanks for knowledge
I got the same problem with the transmission mount. I’ll try tomorrow using your technique. Thanks
Bless you sir.
The engine mount section is very good. However I don't recommend you put transmission mount together. If the transmission mount is not as bad as yours, you won't be so easy to take them off since the top of the mount is bolted. I suggest replace them when you doing driveshaft service such as Guibo replacement. You could reach the transmission mounts from rear.
I'll leave the broken ones on then
Hey Jason, am experiencing what feels like driveline vibration under hard acceleration right around shift points. I just replaced the driveline guibo and center support bearing...could it be transmission mounts? Really appreciate your attention to detail in your videos
Hi, I really like very much your videos. Can you please tell me, if the procedure for the amounts replacement, is the same for de E46 320D 136hp of 2001 ? Thank you very much.
About to tackle these mounts. Will be doing thermostat and water pump next
Unbolt and replace one side at a time. Having the opposite side bolted will force it to til enough for clearance.
You are the man! thats why i subxcibed. thank you again
I had the same problem with the passenger side not getting enough clearance to take it out. Tried the racket strap method and tried bolting the other side down and wasn’t getting close. I ended up taking the jack that came with the car and placed it in between the mount arm and the frame and started jacking it up and that gave me plenty of clearance.
well done m8
Hi 50'skid and others. Just got an E46 330xi. Under Motor mounts part of MD inspection, I've not seen it but I'm told the "transfer case mount" is broken, is that an easy junk yard swop out or more complicated? Inspection station was shaking his head at me. Any assistance welcome, Maurecara
Nice video do you know what is the end torque of nieuw engine mounts ?
Dude u r awesome u made me laugh so bad I cried lol
Usually when I'm working on my car I'm in that mode or the cursing mode lol
Really appreciate your videos. Excellent practical approaches and tool versatility (1/2 breaker on 13mm wrench) is inspired. Would the use of a torque wrench give a correct reading if extended by the combo box end and open end wrench employed? I think that you would be exerting greater torque than the wrench would be set at but I am not sure?
This is correct. You have to adjust the torque wrench setting when using an extension. Set the torque to the desired torque x (torque wrench length / extended wrench length). For example, to get 100 inch pounds from a 10 inch wrench with a straight 10 inch extension (20 inch total length), 100 x 10 / 20 = 50. Set the torque wrench to 50 inch pounds to get 100 at the bolt. So, torque increases with an extension. In the example in this video, the direction of the extension reduces the overall length. Let's say the total length becomes 5 inches: 100 x 10 / 5 = 500 inch pounds. Quite a difference! Note, the angle affects the overall length, so you would measure from the center of the handle to the perpendicular intersection of the bolt head. Not sure how well I explained that, but you get the idea. Best to watch some videos if you really want to understand it. Here's one: ua-cam.com/video/fjiffIV7w-o/v-deo.html
I would recommend PITTSBURGH® AUTOMOTIVE
1000 Lbs. Capacity Engine Support Bar if you are doing the motor mounts. You can buy it at Harbor Freight for sometimes as low as $60. Its much safer and easier to do it that way. I wouldn't trust my jack stands to put my fingers under my motor. That thing drops on your hand you can say goodbye to it if you are lucky enough not to bleed to death.
Am I gonna be able to replace my passenger side motor mount bracket with this method or am I gonna need more clearance?
Is that okay to jack up the engine while it is connected to the transmission? (Since the transmission has its own mounts as well and they are still in place).
Thanks for this great video and your time as always.
hard work but you made it!
I did my engine mounts yesterday using the HF support bar and got the transmission mounts done too. Most difficult part on the engine mounts was getting the top nuts off. I attempted to use the 13mm + breaker bar for the transmission mount top nuts but found that my small HF 3/8 inch ratchet and stubby 13mm socket worked.
+tyler951 Nice
I changed my motor and transmission mounts but the car still sakes at idle?
What brand would you buy Lemforder, Corteco or BMW Genuine? (Corteco are half price than genuines and I've read they are the same?
Could you please let me know, when changing just auto trans mounts can I just jack up tranny with a jack? Or do I have to have engine mounts off first and engine hooked up like you did?
For those with manual transmissions you'll find the transmission mounts are much much easier :)
hey man this is a follow up question for you regarding motor mounts i had originally asked you if the shaking i was getting was due to bad motor mounts well i changed mine ran into the same problem you had and thanx to you i used the rachet strap and it worked for me also thanx for that however i still have the same shake while in drive with my foot on the break not only do i still have that but im getting a clunking noise when i go from drive to reverse and from reverse to drive i have a 2001 330 xi do i even have transmission mounts and if so do you think they are bad? also could be a vacum leak? what do you think?
+John Harris You do have a transmission/transfer case support bracket that has a rubber "mount" or bushing. www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=ES53-USA-01-2001-E46-BMW-330xi&diagId=22_0059 You might have deteriorated rubber giubos where the rear drive shaft bolts to the transfer case and the rear differential (#1 in this: www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=ES53-USA-01-2001-E46-BMW-330xi&diagId=26_0182 -- one on each end of the drive shaft) Same goes for the front drive shaft. If you had a vacuum leak bad enough to cause a vibration, aka driveability problems (rough running engine), you'd have a check engine light. Same goes for a misfire.
I have a question.
I have 2 different brackets that the sellers say are for the same car, one has a screw in the center and the lower anchor point is more open and the other has the screw on one side and the anchor point more in the center, which is the one indicated for the 330i model?????
Hi. great DYI
+Jorge Martinez-DeAnda Thank you
What do you think when doing cheng of speed from the first to the second and the third makes a noise after no on BMW x3 2.5l 04
Thanks, I have a little vibration in parked but much more in drive, what does that mean?
Great! video! , i m thinking that if i should loose the trans bracket too , before lifting the engine up , cuz i seeing the whole thing (eng &trans) is kinda rigid one piece , until/before reaching the first flex joint @ the drive shaft. let me know how u think . Thanks again for great video , i did subscribed =)
You rock!!!
+Christiann Lall Thanks!
Hi I have a E46 325i with a multitronic gear box. I changed the Motor of the E 46 325i with a E46 330i Motor. I did not change the gear box from the 325i and it is giving me problems. How can i solve the issue and have it change it smoothly
What would you say is the average time to do something like this? What difficulty rating would you give this project? I plan on doing this soon
This should take about 2-3 hours I think. I would have to rate this as easy since there are only a couple bolts involved. Nothing to get too mixed up about. Good luck!
Just curious if it would be possible to just loosen the fan shroud and have an assistant guide the shroud up as you raise the engine, as it's only going up a few inches? Obviously the preferred method is to just pull them both out, and inspect the pulley's, tensioners and belts while your there, as well as do a little degreasing.
The problem is that the engine tilts up at an angle so the bottom of the fan blades will contact the radiator. You have to remove the fan.
Are you editing out the cursing? No way you stay so calm through all that. Nice job.
I did the engine mounts. Getting ready to start the transmission mounts, just noticed at 16:10 you mentioned turning the drive line, to get a nut out of the way. Did you just put it in neutral to do this? Did you have to have the rear wheels off the ground? I haven't got under there yet, was just curious. i may need a 2nd set of jack stands, if so.
Marty Meyer Good question--I should have mentioned that the car was jacked up on all 4 jackstands. I almost always do that. Just didn't think about mentioning it. Yes I did shift to neutral in order to rotate the drive shaft a little and you do have to have the rear wheels off the ground to do that. Or you can temporarily jack it up in the back and move the axle to the right place and then let it back down, however it's a whole lot easier to do the job if it's jacked up on all fours as you have more clearance and room to work. Don't only use your jack to support the vehicle though--that's very unsafe.
Went out and bought a second set of jack stands earlier today :)
Hi 50sKid, just checking the jacking points - can you use the normal rubber jacking points all round to support the vehicle - I'm worried that they are not strong enough to hold the whole weight of the car?
Yes they are strong enough and yes you're supposed to do that. I put my jackstands under them every time I work on my car.
Im dreading this repair on my 2009 c350 which is 4matic.. 260k on original mounts and still no movement, lets hope they get too 300!Probably only made it this far because I spray the engine bay plastic and rubbers with silicone spray and 303 aerospace protectant
Hi guy's i have question.
Is it possible that the rear transmission mount throw the limp mode on my e46 320d?