I'll give an update here. I've been running this amp for roughly 5 or 6 years now. It began acting up (more than usual) when I play on it before it's completely warmed up. The volume between channels acts goofy until the tubes are up to temp. It also did this prior but it became more and more common. What happened is the bias had dropped down to 24mV over time. Once I adjusted back up to 35mV it's like a new amp again! But the goofy volume change between channels is still there but goes away once warmed up. So what I've learned is that the bias needs to be checked on maybe once every 6 months or so depending on your amp usage.
Awesome video with great visual demonstration. Thanks for that :) This may seem like a foolish question, but I am a complete novice at this and while very handy and careful, I will have very novice questions haha. Regarding your 2x 12v DC fan + 12v power supply modification: What did you connect/plug the 12v power supply to? A separate cable that plugs into the wall to power the fans? (seems silly for only 2x 12v fans) Or did you connect it to the internal power supply for the amp somehow?
3 questions: I don't think I've seen anyone mention replacing the speaker(s), so I'm guessing the current speaker(s) are great or there's no upgrade that would significantly help sound quality? My 112 has a Celestion G12 "Vintage 30" loudspeaker, has anyone upgraded this speaker? I read on a forum that 12AX7EH might have less noise, is this true? I ordered 2 from amazon, which hopefully wasn't a mistake. Thanks for reading
2 questions. 1, why the different tubes? 2, I've seen bias adjustments made on some fender amps different from stock. Supposedly about sound. What do you think. Great video. I have no problem working with high voltage but in a commercial environment. Excellent idea to use female blade terminals as apposed to just alligator clips.
Have a question regarding the standby, may be a question for Line 6 directly though. I know per the manual it says to use it during power on, so I’ll be doing this. However I thought the standby’s purpose was just for servicing? Here’s the quote from manual for reference: “ Use this switch to silence the on-board speakers without turning the amp off. For optimum tube life, it’s important to use this switch when powering up the amp as follows: • Set the Standby switch to the Standby (down) position. • Set the Power switch to the On (up) position. • Let the amp warm up for at least a minute. • Set the Standby switch to the On (up) position • Rock out! “ I’m not sure how the whole system is designed so I’ll follow their recommendation. Just curious if you have any input here! Thanks 🙌🎶
Great informative video man. I'd like to know more about the 12 volt fan how you mentioned in the comments that you were able to add and how you connected it 😊
Sorry for the late response. I simply used any old 12-volt AC/DC power supply and directly connected the DC output to the fan wiring in the correct polarity. I fastened the power supply inside the back of the amp with some screws and random brackets.
How's the amp holding out? After 2years , change tubes again? Did you modify the digital board by adding heat sinks To the DSP chip and the voltage regulator standoffs?
I rocked this amp on stage since the creation of this video in 2017 until the band was no longer. I never did a thing but cut holes to add 12V DC fans plus a 12v power supply to keep some airflow above the board.
@@markfothebeast hows it sound with JJ and tungsol... Did you notice a difference... Thanks for the video.. Ahh nvmd I just read your description... Awesomeness... Yeah these amps are something else. Excellent effects and fbv board is fantastic.... Don't have to hookup extra pedals with batteries and stuff and the amp itself by Bogner has warm tube sound.
@@JesusOurKing Keep in mind, this is the MKI and not the MKII version of the Spider Valve 112. I don't know how the MKII would react to having different tubes.
Would you have any idea why one of the blue screwdriver adjustments for the tubes on my amp doesn’t react to the milivolt meter but the other one does? I can twist one to 35mv but the other one gives no reading when adjusting.
@@markfothebeast Interesting. Line 6 told me it’s possibly one of the tubes that’s blown. I’ll switch the tubes around and do another millivolt test and see
@@markfothebeast I kept blowing the slow blow fuse on the circuit board and then I would get no sound from my speaker. There is also a rectangular white resistor that seem to have fallen off the circuitboard which I soldered back on. But when I decided to test the tubes with the millivolt tester, I could get one reading on one side but zero on the other. So that’s when line 6 told me it’s possibly the preamp tube is blown or one of the tubes is blown. I guess the only way to find out is to take the existing tubes and switch them around to do a test. Then if the opposite side gives a reading and the other side is zero then I guess it’s the tubes.
@@mermaidengine That rectangular white resistor sounds like a screen grid resistor, and I would recommend replacing it with a brand new one. When a tube goes south, it sometimes takes out the SGR with it. New tubes, new SGR, then you'll likely get your reading on that one spot.
I have 3 spider valves. I used mesa boogie tubes in all 3 and they rock. Reinhold Bogner says to use only chinese & sovtek because they are voiced to the design of the PCB and Spider III section. I might try those next change-out just to see if I hear a difference. Here's the manual: Tubes The Spider Valve 112 and 212 combo amps include (2) Chinese 12AX7-B preamp tubes and (2) matched Sovtek 5881 power amp tubes. The Spider Valve HD100 head features (2) Chinese 12AX7-B preamp tubes and (4) matched Sovtek 5881 power amp tubes. Keep in mind that tubes are like car tires - they get worn out through use and need to be replaced. How loud you play and how long you play for affects how often you need to retube your amp. If you play a lot, changing the power tubes once a year is normal. Preamp tubes can often last twice as long, even longer. For the preamp tubes, we recommend that you only use Chinese 12AX7-B tubes to maintain the original tone of your amp. Always change both tubes at the same time, since one bad tube can often “take down” a good tube. When changing power tubes, you must only use matched sets of Sovtek 5881 tubes and have them properly biased for optimum tone and tube life.
💪🏽
Awesome video my friend. Informative it was 🙏
I'll give an update here. I've been running this amp for roughly 5 or 6 years now. It began acting up (more than usual) when I play on it before it's completely warmed up. The volume between channels acts goofy until the tubes are up to temp. It also did this prior but it became more and more common. What happened is the bias had dropped down to 24mV over time.
Once I adjusted back up to 35mV it's like a new amp again! But the goofy volume change between channels is still there but goes away once warmed up. So what I've learned is that the bias needs to be checked on maybe once every 6 months or so depending on your amp usage.
Thanks for this. Does bias matter if I’m just running into the power amp and treating this like a fancy tube monitor?
Awesome video with great visual demonstration. Thanks for that :)
This may seem like a foolish question, but I am a complete novice at this and while very handy and careful, I will have very novice questions haha.
Regarding your 2x 12v DC fan + 12v power supply modification: What did you connect/plug the 12v power supply to?
A separate cable that plugs into the wall to power the fans? (seems silly for only 2x 12v fans)
Or did you connect it to the internal power supply for the amp somehow?
3 questions:
I don't think I've seen anyone mention replacing the speaker(s), so I'm guessing the current speaker(s) are great or there's no upgrade that would significantly help sound quality?
My 112 has a Celestion G12 "Vintage 30" loudspeaker, has anyone upgraded this speaker?
I read on a forum that 12AX7EH might have less noise, is this true? I ordered 2 from amazon, which hopefully wasn't a mistake.
Thanks for reading
Thanks! This was very helpful.
2 questions. 1, why the different tubes? 2, I've seen bias adjustments made on some fender amps different from stock. Supposedly about sound. What do you think. Great video. I have no problem working with high voltage but in a commercial environment. Excellent idea to use female blade terminals as apposed to just alligator clips.
Have a question regarding the standby, may be a question for Line 6 directly though. I know per the manual it says to use it during power on, so I’ll be doing this. However I thought the standby’s purpose was just for servicing? Here’s the quote from manual for reference:
“ Use this switch to silence the on-board speakers without turning the amp off. For optimum tube life, it’s important to use this switch when powering up the amp as follows:
• Set the Standby switch to the Standby (down) position.
• Set the Power switch to the On (up) position.
• Let the amp warm up for at least a minute.
• Set the Standby switch to the On (up) position
• Rock out! “
I’m not sure how the whole system is designed so I’ll follow their recommendation. Just curious if you have any input here! Thanks 🙌🎶
You may be correct.
Great informative video man. I'd like to know more about the 12 volt fan how you mentioned in the comments that you were able to add and how you connected it 😊
Sorry for the late response. I simply used any old 12-volt AC/DC power supply and directly connected the DC output to the fan wiring in the correct polarity. I fastened the power supply inside the back of the amp with some screws and random brackets.
@@markfothebeast Easy enough I can do that thanks for the info very helpful.
How's the amp holding out?
After 2years , change tubes again?
Did you modify the digital board by adding heat sinks
To the DSP chip and the voltage regulator standoffs?
I rocked this amp on stage since the creation of this video in 2017 until the band was no longer. I never did a thing but cut holes to add 12V DC fans plus a 12v power supply to keep some airflow above the board.
@@markfothebeast hows it sound with JJ and tungsol... Did you notice a difference... Thanks for the video..
Ahh nvmd I just read your description... Awesomeness... Yeah these amps are something else. Excellent effects and fbv board is fantastic.... Don't have to hookup extra pedals with batteries and stuff and the amp itself by Bogner has warm tube sound.
@@JesusOurKing I'll say it again anyway 😀. It is a night and day difference!
@@markfothebeast I'm going try it then. I don't want to install same crappy original tubes. Have a good evening
@@JesusOurKing Keep in mind, this is the MKI and not the MKII version of the Spider Valve 112. I don't know how the MKII would react to having different tubes.
Thanks You, man
Is it easy to replace the control knob?
Did you drain the capacitors before replacing the tubes? I noticed you were wearing heavy duty rubber gloves.
I did not drain capacitors.
The rubber gloves are actually electrician gloves rated for up to 600-volts of protection. I tend to use them at times when in doubt.
Would you have any idea why one of the blue screwdriver adjustments for the tubes on my amp doesn’t react to the milivolt meter but the other one does? I can twist one to 35mv but the other one gives no reading when adjusting.
It sounds like there may be a problem with the board.
@@markfothebeast Interesting. Line 6 told me it’s possibly one of the tubes that’s blown. I’ll switch the tubes around and do another millivolt test and see
@@mermaidengine That could be a possibility. I was under the assumption that you'd installed new tubes.
@@markfothebeast I kept blowing the slow blow fuse on the circuit board and then I would get no sound from my speaker. There is also a rectangular white resistor that seem to have fallen off the circuitboard which I soldered back on. But when I decided to test the tubes with the millivolt tester, I could get one reading on one side but zero on the other. So that’s when line 6 told me it’s possibly the preamp tube is blown or one of the tubes is blown. I guess the only way to find out is to take the existing tubes and switch them around to do a test. Then if the opposite side gives a reading and the other side is zero then I guess it’s the tubes.
@@mermaidengine That rectangular white resistor sounds like a screen grid resistor, and I would recommend replacing it with a brand new one. When a tube goes south, it sometimes takes out the SGR with it. New tubes, new SGR, then you'll likely get your reading on that one spot.
Link to the tubes used? Are they the same for the 212?
I bought the tubes from a local music shop I'll have to take a peek and see what I installed. It's been several years.
I have 3 spider valves. I used mesa boogie tubes in all 3 and they rock. Reinhold Bogner says to use only chinese & sovtek because they are voiced to the design of the PCB and Spider III section. I might try those next change-out just to see if I hear a difference. Here's the manual:
Tubes
The Spider Valve 112 and 212 combo amps include (2) Chinese 12AX7-B preamp tubes
and (2) matched Sovtek 5881 power amp tubes. The Spider Valve HD100 head features
(2) Chinese 12AX7-B preamp tubes and (4) matched Sovtek 5881 power amp tubes.
Keep in mind that tubes are like car tires - they get worn out through use and need to be
replaced. How loud you play and how long you play for affects how often you need to retube your amp. If you play a lot, changing the power tubes once a year is normal. Preamp
tubes can often last twice as long, even longer.
For the preamp tubes, we recommend that you only use Chinese 12AX7-B tubes to
maintain the original tone of your amp. Always change both tubes at the same time, since
one bad tube can often “take down” a good tube.
When changing power tubes, you must only use matched sets of Sovtek 5881 tubes and
have them properly biased for optimum tone and tube life.