This is the way 'how to' videos are supposed to be made. Thank you. I've had my eye on this system for my CB750 but was skeptical as to whether it was a gimmick or not. I'm sold. Purchasing soon and Revival is definitely on my watch list. You guys rock.
building a ducati 750 ss project, I was going to use the original harness. Now that I have seen this I am definitely going to get one. well made, thorough piece of electronics. thanks for the videos. !!
Wow!!! This seems to be an AWSOME product. Just in the fact it labels the in/outputs, protects all circuits and customizable with the configuration button. I'm totally interested in replacing my load equalizer. This video has me saying "you are BRILLIANT" If it works like demonstrated for me on my bike all my problems will be solved and dreams have come true.
I know that feeling, and had the same reaction the first time I saw one. It does take a bit of work to complete an installation, but in my opinion it is far better, faster, and easier than doing a traditional wiring install. This is the coolest piece of moto electrics to come out in the last decade.
superb videos you guys have; im building a little honda cafe racer and i am looking for components for it, im a total noob in fact this is my first bike but this video playlist of motogadget producst its amazing, a little pricy , but i think its worth every penny from what ive seen in your vids, ty not for sharing the products but for sharing the knowledge with people like me who are trying to get their bikes running and looking good and helping us make informed choices on how to achieve that!!
I don't put out a lot of comments out simply because of the immense number of bike videos out there but this was awesome. Thank you for making this so much easier to understand actually playing around with the pieces vs. just a conceptual explanation. Great video and I will no question be going through you guys for my M-unit soon. Easy subscribe & like.
Have always wondered how the "M" unit works and this video has answered all my Questions, thank you very much, will be saving up to buy one for my next build, regards Doc Cox.
That's the kind of video that just convinced me to order all my M-Gadget stuff from you guys. So damn helpful. Expect a large order for a Guzzi this year...
This is great! I was dreading the electrial part of the build (isn't everyone?) and the m-unit sounded like a good solution, but I wans't sure it was worth it until I saw this great video. Now I know for sure what I'm getting :)
Great video. I was wondering how the idiot lights, e.g. for the turn signals (indicators in the UK!) and hi / lo beam headlight, connected up in this system?
+Adam Connolly The best explanation for the idiot light wiring is on the m-Unit manual page 11. motogadget.com/media/downloads/manual/munit_v2_manual_en_3.2_k.pdf. But basically the neutral and oil pressure lights are switching the ground side of the electricity and this means that you connect power from the AUX output to the light, and then from the light to the respective switch, then when the switch is activated the light turns on. Then for the turn indicators and headlight high beam, power to the dash light is tapped off the power going to the actual light, and then goes through the dash light and then to ground. The one point that is different about the turn indicators is if you only have one dash light for both indicators then you need to use two diodes to prevent power from crossing from one side to the other at the dash light. On the other hand if you have two dash lights for right and left turn indicators then they can be wired directly in parallel to the primary turn indicators.
Great video, and not dry IMO. One question, at 11:50 you talk about the m wave blinker config. Does this work with LED lights? Or just regular indicator bulbs? Thanks!
The m-Unit Blue is on the list, we've got one that we are starting to test, once we get a few extra minutes we will shoot a new video. As far as connecting the speedo and tach, that all depends on what type of speedo / tacho you have. In 90% of cases, the speedo/tacho are just getting power from the m-Unit via the AUX output, the m-Unit has nothing to do with the sensing or measurement.
I suppose the M unit does also work with other buttons and switches instead of the "M-button" and such? Like everyone said reaaaaally good how to video !! thanks !!!
Yep, the m-Unit will work with virtually any type of switch you want to use. That is part of what makes it so cool is that the input side of the m-Unit doesn't handle any current, and are just signals that tell the m-Unit what to turn on. Any device that can turn on and off a connection to ground will work for the input side of the m-Unit.
You should give lessons on how to do a how-to video. This wasn't "dry" in the least, very informative and well thought out, no filler or shitty music, you obviously prepped before filming-bottom line, I'm coming to you when I buy one of these.
Typically I like to use the AUX output for the number plate light. That way if the ignition is turned on and the engine is ready to run the number plate light is on.
On your installs do you have fuse between the M-unit and the battery? If so what rating? The 10mm^2 cable they supply to power it is really hefty. Thanks!
+Tim Flannery The m-Unit doesn't need a fuse between it and the battery, but the charging system needs a fuse between it and the battery. So as long as the charging system is fuse protected you are good. The rating of this fuse depends on the gauge of the wire coming from the charging system, most the time these are 16 gauge wire and a 20 amp fuse is appropriate. But this will depend on your specific bike. On our installs we do not use the 10mm^2 wire because it is unnecessarily large, instead we use a very high quality 12 Ga copper wire with a cross-linked high temp insulation.
Thanks for the order, and I hope you've already got this info, but in case you are still wondering. The best way to deal with this is to switch to a negative earth system. It sounds worse than it is, and you really just need to take a look at the charging system and the ignition system and rearrange how they are wired. Most ignition systems can be setup to work both ways, same is true for the regulator/rectifier in the charging system. But worst case you may need to get a new reg/rec.
Hi, and thanks for great videos. I have a FXSTB 2001 engine and frame, and are wondering how do you connect the m-unit, motoscope mini and motosign mini, and what would you keep from the old wiring harness when conncting it with the TwinCam? Or would you throw it all in the bin?
If you don't have a button there should be no problem in just attaching a wire to config and connecting it to ground for push? right? - thanks for a nice product and great videos!
Yep, that totally works, and its exactly how I do it on our builds. Its usually faster to just grab a scrap wire off the bench than to walk across the shop to find a button. Its also temporary, so no need to use a real button.
Excellent Asger. This is the answer to my question! I take it you just tap the wire on the frame to change the settings? Or am I talking shite? Your help is appreciated.
I think it's already answered in the video , but just to confirm when running LEDs instead of incandescents with the M-Unit you don't need resistors correct?
The m-Unit doesn't require load balance resistors with LED's, and the built in flasher relay is compatible with any type of 6 or 12 volt light. However, depending on what type of LED's you are using you might need current limiting resistors. Most LED's sold for vehicle applications have this built in, but if you are building a DIY light with raw LED's you'll need some type of current control, and the easiest way is a simple current limiting resistor.
Im a Motorcycle Mechanic and a customer is brnging me a bike next week with a "M" unit installed. He,s having charging system problems, intermittent charging. Anything in the unit i should be looking at? You mentioned the aux port as having a charge wire going into it? The bike in question is a 1975 cb 550 honda.
The m-Unit really doesn't have much to do with the charging system, and the only connection between the charging system and the m-Unit is the reference or excitation voltage for field excited systems. The AUX output is just a solid state switch that provides power for the ignition system and any other circuit that needs power when the ignition is active, like the charging system. So with the 550 I think those are field excited, so there should be connection between the reg/rec and the AUX output, but if that connection is solid there isn't anything the m-Unit can do to affect charging.
With the m-Unit you do not need a starter relay. The start output is capable of delivering 30 amps to the stater solenoid and that is much more power than the solenoid will need. Also the m-Unit has built in load shedding relays so everything that can be off is turned off when starting so the starter has maximum available power.
Thank you heaps for the reply, also just wondering with the + input for the m-unit it comes with the 10mm cable. do I need to fuse it from the + battery to the + input of the M-Unit or can just directly connect it to the + battery terminal, because in the manual shown as 'main fuse' and not sure what actual fuse to use like 30amp? and is it worth fusing the regulator with a fuse (not sure witch fuse to use) to the same 10mm batter wire that came with the m-unit. thank you hoo much for the help. And for those reading unsure if they should grab one of the m-units and clean up the wiring on your own pride and joy, nervously riding hoping the wiring they did or the previous owners did risking shorts and other things to happen. small out lay for major peace of mind was well worth it for me. Also very easy to wire up even for me that has no experience, worked it out and any questions these guys have been heaps of help ^^^.
Technically the m-Unit does not need a fuse for the main power input. However, the charging system should have a main fuse to protect the battery from a short circuit failure in the charging system or reg/rec. The 10mm cable that comes with the m-Unit is sized to make you feel good, and to cover the worst case scenario, but not based on the actual electrical requirements. In this type of application 12 gauge TXL wire is rated to 40 amps, and for 90% of bikes that is more than the electrical system could possibly use or produce. NOTE: if you are using 12 Gauge you really need to use a main fuse for the m-Unit connection. But by switching to 12 gauge wire it is much easier to find a main fuse holder that works. And on our bikes I'll setup a main fuse close to the battery and use that to connect both the m-Unit and the charging system. We use either the IP67 waterproof main fuse holder that comes in our wiring kit, or the built in main fuse of the universal starter solenoid we sell. Just depends on what type of starter the bike has.
Hey, i ordered a m-unit with the m-button, but my bike is batteryless kickstart only. Will i need to stick a small battery in there? Like maybe the one you guys are using in the video?
Awesome product, wish there was some more info out on them, I purchased one through you guys, maybe you would know, what is the output on the AUX terminal? I've got one of those PAMCO units and for some reason I think it's only supposed to be fed 7.5 amps. Thx in advance
+TheGreatWhiteNorthTV The output on the AUX is 16a so you shouldn't have any issues with the Pamco ignition. Page 7 in the manual provides the max amperage for each of the outputs. motogadget.com/media/downloads/manual/munit_v2_manual_en_3.2_k.pdf
Can you program the m-unit to keep the turn light on for a few seconds without the need to keep the button pushed like on the old Harley-s? Or it can just turn them off on newer models after a programmed interval?
The way that the turn signals work with an m-Unit and momentary push buttons for inputs, is as follows: 1) A very short press will flash the turn signals 3 times and then stop 2) A press for more than 1 second will activate the turn signal and it will stay active until the programmed timer count down is complete. This timer can be set at 10 sec, 20 sec, 30 sec, 40 sec, 50 sec, or no automatic cancel. Also note that activating the brake switch will reset this timer. This means the self canceling feature will only work if you are not using the brakes for the duration of the timer count down. 3) Pressing BOTH left and right buttons at the same time will activate the hazard four way flashers and turn on both left and right signals at the same time, with no self canceling timer. This will also stay active if the m-Unit is shut down and the key is removed.
It depends on what you mean by CDI...that term gets used too often to describe an ignition control module, but it actually means Capacitor Discharge Ignition, and that is far less common these days. With the dyna 3000 you would just need to determine which wires are getting switched power and connect those to the AUX output or the ignition output.
Awesome product... Quick Question. Are you wiring your ignition module and regulator to this unit as well, or there a separate unit for it??? I'm working on an 80 XS850 and it is a birdsnest. So I'm trying to figure out the best and cleanest way to rewire everything.
+fluffyD110 Both the ignition module and regulator are tied into the m-Unit. For reference, you can visit page 10 of the m-Unit manual at this link: motogadget.com/media/downloads/manual/munit_v2_manual_en_3.2_k.pdf Your ignition will pull power from the AUX output on the m-Unit and the regulator ties into the Positive Main Terminal on the m-Unit. If you have any more questions about your project, feel free to send us an email at websales@revivalcycles.com and we can help you out with specific wiring questions!
This may be a topic for a future video, but it is difficult to address the nuance of each different bike. The best advice I can offer is to trace out the connections from the CDI on the wire diagram. Then look for the wire that is connected to the kill switch or ignition switch, track that back and make sure it is sourcing +12V and then that is the wire that gets connected to the AUX out on the m-Unit. The rest should be connected the same as it was on the original setup.
Yes, the m-Unit can be setup to self cancel turn signals. You can program from a selection of count down times, but also the count down timer waits to start until after you let off the brake lever.
in a previous video you mentioned that if a resistor went out, it may destroy and void the warranty of the m unit. I'm not very good with Electrical but when running your own wires would the direct line from the battery be the place to put a resistor?
I'm not sure which video you are referring too, but I'm guessing it was discussing a regulator / rectifier (reg/rec) and not a resistor. Regulators are used to limit the voltage that the charging system produces. The m-Unit has built in protections for situations where the regulator fails, by honking the horn and turning on lights to try to use up the excess power. But that will not protect the battery from a charging system or reg/rec short circuit, and this is the reason we recommend installing a main fuse between the battery and the regulator/rectifier.
hit it right on the head. exactly what i was talking about haha. sorry for the miscommunication. Ill definitely be ordering this unit and a few other bits from you in the next couple of months. this web series is incredibly helpful. Thanks!
Nice presentation of a great product. I'm looking to get rid of both my clunky OEM instrument clusters on my 2013 Ducati 1100 EVO ABS. How would the m-Unit control, scroll and select the finer functions of the OEM display? Such as changing miles to kilometers, changing Rider ABS intervention level, display brightness for example? These are currently controlled by a rocker switch you move forward and backward, holding each down respectively to confirm a wanted change in preference. Thank you, Caswa
This is not a straightforward question, and really a bike that is sophisticated enough to have different riding modes, and ABS settings should have very high quality wiring that makes the use of an m-Unit un-necessary. Specifically with ducaiti's removing the OEM instruments and dash panel can be very problematic as they incorporate that into the anti-theft system in many cases. We haven't re-worked the electrical on that generation of monster yet, so you may find more accurate info on the duc forums. It may be possible to remove the gauges, on your bike, but I know the bikes from the early 2000's through 2008 cannot have the gauge removed with out reprogramming or replacing the ECU to eliminate the anti-theft system. If this is something you really want to do email techsupport@revivalcycels.com and we can help you come up with a plan, and try to give a gist of what to expect for challenges along the way.
Hi I need help! I've purchased a universal switch ignition which has 4 terminals. Three have two parallel contacts and the other just one. Which one connects to the battery and which one connects to the m-unit lock? Thanks in advance.
+Louis Emina I don't fully understand your description of the terminals on your switch, if the switch included a wire diagram of how it is setup that would help a lot. The other way is to use a multi meter and check the terminals and find a pair that is open when the switch is in the off position and closed when the switch is in the on position. This way one is connected to battery and the other is connected to lock input. With an m-Unit you should not need more than two wire connected to the ignition switch. There are a few exceptions to this, like magneto bikes, and certain dirt bikes that can run with out a battery.
When using the M-button with the M-unit, do you need an additional wire/button connected to the configure terminal to access the setup menu? I didn't see this mentioned in the manual download you referenced. Or do you use one of the six switches connected to the M-button? I'm getting ready to purchase the M-unit and switches but am unsure if I need to buy 2 three button units or 1 three button and a two button set. Thank you for your time
supersportimpalass There's no need to buy an additional button, we generally use one of the buttons on the switches for programming and connect it to the proper function once we complete our configuration of the m-Unit.
Can the one wire tail/brake light function also include rear turn signals? I'm not sure I've asked that correctly, I want my stop tail led to be my turn signal as well. Thanks
+Shaun Walters This is something that has come up a few times, but the m-Unit is not setup to work this way. Although, it will work if you use another device called a tail light integrator. There are several motorcycle specific units and they usually cost about $80. There are also some simple versions that are intended for installing in a car to create a trailer light harness and these are frequently available at an auto parts store. With a little creative wiring you can make that work for about $40
you said it's 6-24v compatible? I have a 1975kz900 that needs to batteries to start (14:1 comp). could i just run 24v all the time assuming my lights and coils can handle it?
Rewiring my GSXR1100 and have questions about hi/low beam wiring with a stock switch. Menu 5, config C seems to retain the first position low, second position high switch functionality? Is it the low beam wire that runs from the switch to the m-unit headlight input, and the high beam wire that is no longer needed? Thanks
Yes, you are correct. When using factory toggle switches to control headlight function with the m-Unit you connect the low beam wire to the light input on the m-Unit, and then make sure the factory switch is switching to ground (not positive the way it was originally wired) and then there is no connection for the high beam switch. The manual doesn't cover this in much detail but it is referenced at the bottom of page 4 and top of page 5. Also menu 5, option C is the correct configuration for this switch combination.
Great informative video folks. I've ordered the V2 plus the button but would like to know is there a button you use to configure the settings? If I lived in the US, I'd be over to you guys in a heartbeat. Wiring a sporty chop btw.
In general I don't use a dedicated button for m-Unit configuration, but instead just use a short length of wire and simply attach one end to the config input and tap the other to ground which simulates the switch but is faster than doing a permanent install. Normally we only need to do the config once.
Thank you for educating me for I am new to this work. I plan to transform all my lights units, ignition system and the regulator rectifier into 12Volts system. I am pretty sure know how to hook up the m-unit v2 to the ignition system, lights, turns signals, brake lights. Where will I hook up the regulator rectifier to and from? Will the link that i sent to you would work if i follow that schematic? Or to you have any suggestion? Thank you for your help.
Quoc Luu Using the wiring diagram you sent to us, you would hook up the regulator rectifier as referenced in the diagram. To reiterate though, you will need to have a regulator rectifier compatible with the new engine.
if like to order one of these for my 1980 Yamaha XS650 project. I don't trust the crappy fuse box it has right now and need to add tail light. could you provide a how to guide to get installation done myself?
Hey guys i'm having a problem with the ignitionsystem and the Munit blue, my 74 hd xlh ironhead has the OEM mechanical breaker points witch got 1 wire going to the ignition coil (instead of 2 wires like electrical ignitions). M unit says that with electrical ignition you go with wire #1 to the coil and wire #2 has to be split to coil and ignitionunit before going into the ignition Output.
my observation is that the M Unit is decades newer technology from the old fuse box design.. this is so much safer when a short happens and the fuse blows. Also it seems to me that it would also be impossible to fry wires with the M Unit almost making it impossible to burn your bike up.. I am really wanting to rewire my Kawasaki ZRX using this technology
Great video and thanks for posting! Just a quick question about the turn signals. I noticed that you only set up one signal. If you had both a left and right turn signal would you still control them with the one button? How does that work? I'm asking because I am thinking of using this set up on my bars and want to know if I should order a 2 or 3 button m-Switch. Thanks!
Saturdays Wrench We just set up one signal for the purposes of demonstration. The m-Unit has input and output terminals for both Left and Right side signals. So, using the m-Switch setup would require a button for each, left and right indicators. If you check out the product listing on our website, there's an image with all of the inputs and outputs documented for reference: revivalcycles.com/products/motogadget-m-unit-controller. (Just for clarification, use of the m-Switch does require an m-Unit to work properly.) If you have any more questions, feel free to shoot us an email at websales@revivalcycles.com for more assistance!
Revival Cycles Yes, I figured it was just for demonstration. I guess what I'm asking is, you would set it up in a way that you would have one button on the left for the left signal and one on the right for the right signal? or would you have 2 on the left side of the bars? Thanks for the link, I will check it out. Thanks for replying also, I appreciate you guys taking the time to get back to people, it's cool.
Saturdays Wrench Apologies for the confusion! You can set the m-Switch buttons up really however you like, if you prefer a more traditional configuration with both left and right signals on the left side of your bars, you can do that. Generally, we set it up with one button on the left side of the bars for left signals and one on the right side of the bars for right signals.
Awesome video and product. Question though, when you switch the hi beam on it's just a tap on the button then you hold the button to turn the head light totally off. If you wanted to switch back to a low beam from the hi beam, would it just be another tap on the button? Probably a silly question but just want to clarify. Thanks again for the awesome video.
+Ros ariff Roslan The m-Unit does not include a configuration button. However, configuration button is only used during setup and it is not absolutely necessary to purchase one separately. On all our builds we just use a short length of wire to make a temporary switch, one end of the wire is inserted into the config terminal, the other is touched to a chassis ground to create a switch, just use this the same way you would a button. There is no current that flows from the config terminal so there is no risk of getting shocked, just be sure you are touching ground and not positive voltage. Once the configuration is complete, you remove the wire from config. Its quick and dirty but it gets the job done and you don't waste money on another switch. The m-Unit does replace the fuse block. It has preset current limits for all the outputs on the m-Unit and if the current exceeds these values the m-Unit will shut down that output. There are a couple exceptions to this. First, you still need a main fuse to protect your battery from a charging system failure. And second, if you are connecting thin gauge wire to the outputs, they should be fused to the appropriate amperage for the gauge wire you are using. As an example of this, if you are using a Motogadget gauge, the wire is very small gauge and it gets power from the AUX output. The AUX output can supply 16Amps and that gauge wire should be fused at 1Amp, and therefore a fuse is required to protect the thin wire that goes to the Motogadget gauge.
+Revival Cycles great video series, helped out a lot.. a quick question .... when i have the m button installed the config input is used and when i tried to use the config button it did not work... when i removed the m button config cable i could configure the m unit as normal... this causes a problem as it is not that great to have to keep removing the m button to re configure the alarm for example... anyway i could put a switch that isolates teh m button but i was wondering if you had a better idea?
Hi, I'm thinking of getting one of the m-units for my custom built bike, imported from the States. Only problem is that the bike was wired with 0.5mm2 wiring, rated at 11amp, but the m-unit states it requires 1.5mm2 output wiring. Is 1.5mm2 wiring strictly necessary given that the headlight is the greatest draw at 5amps which is less than half the wire rating?
+Barry Taylor The short answer is, if your wire is rated at 11 amps you should be just fine, as the m-Unit provides 10 amps to the headlight circuit. The long answer is... Sizing wire is not a simple task. The main dependence is what the insulation of the wire is, the cross-linked high temp wire that we use its is capable of carrying higher current than general purpose wire of the same gauge or mm2. This is because the insulation withstands both the temperature increase coming from the engine, but also the temperature increase coming from the electricity flowing in the wire. The important part of sizing wire is not really how much power the device is using, but how much power can be supplied to wire in case of a short circuit. Using the headlight output as an example, the m-Unit will supply 10 amps, before tripping. That means the wire needs to be sized to handle the heat produced by 10 amps plus the ambient heat in the area the wire is installed, plus some safety factor. For us we have found that 18 gauge TXL copper wire meeting SAE-J1128 specification is adequate for m-Unit outputs and very compact.
Hi I wonder if you can help me. I've connected the m unit on my cb550 all is good except one issue. When I put the headlight on the rear also comes on BUT when I push high beam the tail light goes off. Iam scratching my head. Can't figure this one out. Everything else works. Indicators,break lights. Iam also using the 3 button mswitch
+Misdemeanor Customs It sounds like you have your tail light getting power from the low beam. This is typical of how they are wired from the factory, but with the m-Unit I think it might be easier to use the 1-wire tail light feature. You disconnect the tail light wire from the bike side of the harness and connect it to the brake light wire so that the tail light only has two connections to the bike harness (one ground, the other brake light wire connected to brake and tail wire on the bulb side). With it setup this way, you should have the original tail light wire on the bike side of the connector open and not connected to anything, this wire is not used anymore and can be taped up so it doesn't short out. Then in the m-Unit configuration setup menu 2 as configuration C. This way the tail/brake light will get 50% power to both circuits of the tail/brake light when the brake is not active. Then when the brake is active, both circuits will have 100% power. This is all controlled in the m-Unit, and this should solve your problem. If you have more questions or need additional clarification on how to do this email us at techsupport@revivalcycles.com
The key switch for the m-Unit is the same as it is on any of the installs, the switch provides power to the lock input. When the lock input is not powered, the m-Unit it off, when the lock input has power it is turned on. The m-Unit does not work with bikes that don't have a battery. With a CDI type ignition system, I use the AUX to power a normally closed relay. Then the relay is used to ground the kill wire from the ignition control module. That way, when the AUX is off, the relay is closed and the kill wire is grounded (no spark). When the AUX is powered the relay is open so the CDI will generate a spark.
I really appreciate you taking the time to respond to my dumb questions! My worry is that by send high DC to the CDI via the aux output as in the motogadget wiring diagram, would I not damage it seeing as it's normally powered by the magneto?
Just to clarify, the AUX does not connect directly to the CDI. Instead, the CDI is wired up as shown on the factory diagram, so the magneto still powers the CDI, and the coils are powered by the CDI, and the pickup coils tell the CDI when to spark. But the AUX is used to control a normally closed relay that replaces the manually operated kill switch or key switch.
Got it !! That diagram with aux spliced into the ignition coil feed confused the hell out of me. Just got the headlight low/high beam with oem controls and m-button to suss now. Thanks again for your help.✌️
Take a look at the manual on the bottom of page 4 and the top of page 5, that explains the hookup for stock controls on the headlight. But basically it uses the stock toggle switch like a true / false input, if the llight input is grounded, that tells the m-Unit low beam, if the light input is not grounded that means high beam. So you only connect the low beam wire from the switch to the input, and the high beam wire from the switch is not connected to anything. The m-Button is wired up exactly as shown in the diagrams, there is nothing special about using stock switches. The magic happens in the m-Unit when you setup the configuration of menu 5. Make sure the configuration matches the type of switches you are using.
Can this be used on an Escooter if I have a battery pack? How much battery voltage would I need and how would I know the voltage I would need? Do I add up the wattage of the headlights, turn signal lights etc.? I'm interested in using the motogadget handlebar turn signal lights, probably a high lumen bicycle head light and a battery operated horn. How can I do that?
Low beam wire does not connect to anything. The best plan is to use some heat shrink to cap the end so it can't accidentally touch something and cause problems
We have one available on our store revivalcycles.com/products/universal-under-tank-ignition-switch If you are looking for a way around it, you can use a simple toggle switch, or latching push button. But details depend on exactly what you are trying to do.
Hi Stephen, Looking on internet i cannot figure out the output specs in "one wire tail light mode", i see that you can choose bulbs or leds in the menu, but is it amps or voltage regulation with leds? have you got some specs to give? Also, regulators are running aroud 13,5v in use, so, do the m-unit realy deliver 12v or is it just a value given in usual admittance (as for batteries when we know they are "normaly" around 12.85v), to resume do the m-unit provide 12v ? or do outputs follows the régulator tension in input? Great video Bro, thanks a lot!
We don't have the detailed specs for the 1-wire tail light, but I can give some general info on the subject. The 1-wire mode will perform some pulse width modulation to reduce the total power sent to the tail light and then when the brake input is grounded by the brake switches, the m-Unit sends full power to the tail light. The difference between the LED and Standard bulb mode is the frequency of the pulse width modulation. The standard bulb uses a slower rate than the LED because if the LED was pulsed at the standard bulb rate it would be noticeable as a flickering. The m-Unit will output the same voltage as what is provided to it, it does not change the voltage to the outputs. So if your battery or regulator is at 13.5v then the outputs will be 13.5v. I have tested this and found only a very small difference between the input and output, but it is so small it can be ignored. To be clear the m-Unit does not do any regulation of the voltage or the current in the system. BUT in the case of the 1-wire tail light it does use pulse width modulation (turn on/off very quickly) to reduce the brightness of the light.
The m-Unit is not compatible with battery eliminator capacitors. But these days with the incredibly small size of LiFePO4 batteries, there is not much need for the eliminator capacitors on kick only bikes. If you would like to discuss the details of an application or spec a battery for your bike email us at techsupport@revivalcycles.com Thanks!
Thanks for the request, the C5 ignition tech talk is on the list, but we haven't scheduled it yet...we will move it up on the priority list. This is the best ignition system we've found, simple to install, simple to time, extremely effective, and perfectly accurate. We have installed many aftermarket ignitions and this is the C5 is the best.
wow thank You for the fast respons i all ready orderd the 'm unit because of this video for my virago i 'm looping for werd for the c5ig for the virago alle ready thanks
Yea those C5 ignitions are great, and while we don't have all the models listed on our webstore, we are an official dealer and can get you whatever you need. We can also program custom ignition curves if you want to do something specific. We've got the C5 on the list for tech talks, but there are a few topics that are ahead of it.
Revival Cycles I want to add a horn brake and indicator lights on my off road bike , just powers by a single antigravity battery , and m unit is this possible ? Thanks
+Alex Carter The m-Unit does not replace the starter solenoid, but in most applications that is the only relay that needs to be retained. Let us know if you have any other questions, you can also direct them to websales@revivalcycles.com and we'll be happy to help you out.
+Masayoshi Terada While you can use your stock switches with the m-Unit we don't generally recommend it. One of the primary benefits of installing an m-Unit is to eliminate variables that could cause a failure and the OEM controls on vintage bikes are a frequent source for electrical gremlins. Here's a link to a PDF of the manual, motogadget.com/media/downloads/manual/munit_v2_manual_en_3.2_k.pdf Page 8 section 7.7 shows which configuration is required for Japanese bikes, configuration (C) Modification to the wiring is required for the headlight switch to function correctly, you can find the description at the bottom of page 4 and a diagram at the top of page 5
In theory you could add an m-Unit and a battery and run it as a total loss system. But if you want to go this route, I strongly suggest using LED lighting, the LED's draw a lot less power and that will make it so the battery lasts longer. Also, you should do some research there may be an aftermarket stator and reg/rec for your bike so you can actually add a charging system, that way you won't have to run as a total loss and it will work more like a normal street bike.
Very nice video. I am sold and I will purchase ALL my motogadget gear from your website! I have a two questions, is it possible to set it up so all the turn signals flash at the same time? It would be useful for lane splitting. Also, can I connect the handlebar signals on top of the other 4 turn signals to the M-Unit? Thank you!
Yes there is a "hazzard" flashing feature on the m-Unit, just push both left and right turn signal buttons at the same time. That does mean you need to have momentary push button controls for the turn signals, and you would not be able to use a stock style toggle switch for the turn signal control.
Its not completely clear what you are referencing, but we have been able to find solutions to every lighting setup so far. If you are talking about a combination tail/brake/turn LED setup, then the best solution we've found is to use a hopkins LED trailer light converter to manage the brake/turn interaction.
@@RevivalCycles if I wanted to wire in a relay would I do that through the AUX? Yes I am referring to exactly that, thanks for the quick response, you guys should get on reddit!
Right with the original V2 m-Unit you would power a relay coil off the AUX output. But with the new m-Unit Blue or Basic, you have two new AUX outputs in addition to the ignition output so you might be able to just use AUX 1 or AUX 2 instead of adding a relay.
@@RevivalCycles Awesome thanks for the information! Seriously look into getting on reddit you'll probably be able to push some product and gather some attention to this through it!
Thx for the tips, we'll get the media guys to take a look at that. It does get tricky to manage all the different social platforms, but hey if it was easy everyone would do it.
Yes the fuel pump can be connected with the m-Unit, and it would be supplied power via the AUX output. However, the fuel pump should still be controlled by the ECU and that means you'll need a fuel pump relay. Once you have to add a fuel pump relay back into the system, then its just as easy to power the fuel pump directly from the battery. It is good practice to have the fuel pump controlled by the ECU so that it doesn't run the entire time the bike is on even when the engine isn't running.
Yep, the m-Unit will do 4-way flashers if you are using momentary push button switches for the turn signal inputs. The 4-way function cannot be activated if using a stock style toggle switch for the turn signals, because the m-Unit needs to see both inputs pressed at the same time and that isn't possible with the stock switch.
Ive got a 1994 sportster 883. Just bought the motogadget m-unit. Couple of questions, because the schematic isnt as straight forward as it seems! It shows a wire going from the ignition module to aux (m unit). which wire do i select? Ive kept the electronic ignition and will re run cable for oil sender. That i can deal with. Also, do i now just bin the voltage regulator at the front of my bike? Comments appreciated. In the UK, so its not so harley orientated!! Cant just zip down the mechanics shop and pick his brain.....
+Dwayne Moss Thanks for your question! There are two parts to the answer. Hope this helps! a) Ignition system. The ignition system remains as it was from the factory, any sensors, CDI's, fuel pump relays, or ECU's are still maintained. The way they integrate with the m-Unit is by getting power from the "AUX" output. The specific wires that you need to deliver power to are the ones that would have originally been powered by the ignition key switch. With out having a clear wire diagram for your specific bike it is not possible to determine which wires need to be connected to "AUX". b) Charging system. The regulator rectifier is still retained, and is connected as it was on the original bike. In some cases the reg/rec needs to get a switched reference voltage and this provided by the "AUX" output. In the case of a Harley Sportster my recolection is that this is a simple single phase permenant magnet system and there are 4 wires that come from the reg/rec. Two come from inside the engine and this is where the AC power comes from, then the other two are the DC side, one will connect to ground (either at the battery or on the frame) the other should be the regulated +12 V and this connects to the positive terminal of the battery via a main fuse.
hello. I've fitted the v2 to my bobber build - all new wiring. I'm have an issue with when I've got the lights on, it works fine. when I put on high beam it turns off my tail light. it's a twin wire, twin bulb rear lamp. how do stop the tail light turning off when I go on to high beam? thank you.
This sounds like you may have your tail light wired into the low beam of the headlight, like some OEM setups do. I usually find it is easier to set up the tail light using the 1-wire feature. To do this disconnect the tail light wire from the rest of the bike and then tie the tail light wire and the brake light wire together , and then configure menu 2 as option B for LED bulbs or C for standard incandescent bulbs. This will allow the m-Unit to control the tail/brake functions. Just to be clear you tie the power wire for the brake light and the power wire for the tail light together, the ground wires still connect to ground. If you need more details or have more questions, email techsupport@revivalcycles.com Thanks!
This is one of the greatest How-To videos I've ever seen. Motogadget should make these by default!
They are not great with dealing with end customer. This would really help them.
This is the way 'how to' videos are supposed to be made. Thank you. I've had my eye on this system for my CB750 but was skeptical as to whether it was a gimmick or not. I'm sold. Purchasing soon and Revival is definitely on my watch list. You guys rock.
building a ducati 750 ss project, I was going to use the original harness. Now that I have seen this I am definitely going to get one. well made, thorough piece of electronics. thanks for the videos. !!
Nice work on the video. Concise. Informative. No BS. No bad music or cheesing intro.
Brilliant and clear demo as per normal. Your video has convinced me that the M-Unit v.2 is the way to go for my CB550 build.
Love the 2001 Odyssey throwback with the monolith scene! Well done!
I can see a visit to Revival Cycles in my near future. Thanks for the excellent video!
This is really trick. Then I saw the fuse box capabilities and my mind was blow. Very nice video.
Wow!!! This seems to be an AWSOME product. Just in the fact it labels the in/outputs, protects all circuits and customizable with the configuration button. I'm totally interested in replacing my load equalizer. This video has me saying "you are BRILLIANT" If it works like demonstrated for me on my bike all my problems will be solved and dreams have come true.
I know that feeling, and had the same reaction the first time I saw one. It does take a bit of work to complete an installation, but in my opinion it is far better, faster, and easier than doing a traditional wiring install. This is the coolest piece of moto electrics to come out in the last decade.
superb videos you guys have; im building a little honda cafe racer and i am looking for components for it, im a total noob in fact this is my first bike but this video playlist of motogadget producst its amazing, a little pricy , but i think its worth every penny from what ive seen in your vids, ty not for sharing the products but for sharing the knowledge with people like me who are trying to get their bikes running and looking good and helping us make informed choices on how to achieve that!!
I don't put out a lot of comments out simply because of the immense number of bike videos out there but this was awesome. Thank you for making this so much easier to understand actually playing around with the pieces vs. just a conceptual explanation.
Great video and I will no question be going through you guys for my M-unit soon. Easy subscribe & like.
Great how to video! I'm definitely putting an m-unit on my project bike. I look forward to seeing more videos.
I love that you guys are now making these vids!!! fantastic.
As a genuine Electronics Dummy, I gotta say, this might even be simple enough for me! Excellent demo, thank you!
Have always wondered how the "M" unit works and this video has answered all my Questions, thank you very much, will be saving up to buy one for my next build, regards Doc Cox.
Great video. I am getting an M-unit for my 1979 Honda CX500 project.
That's the kind of video that just convinced me to order all my M-Gadget stuff from you guys. So damn helpful. Expect a large order for a Guzzi this year...
This is great! I was dreading the electrial part of the build (isn't everyone?) and the m-unit sounded like a good solution, but I wans't sure it was worth it until I saw this great video. Now I know for sure what I'm getting :)
This is an awesome product and you are an excellent teacher I appreciate your service! Thankyou
So awesome!!! I want this for my old 175 Honda cb project.. brilliant!
Thank you for this demonstration
Thank you for explaining how to wire Msystems I am forever Grateful
Great video thanks so much for taking time out to demystify the M-unit. Love ya work!
Omg best video....Thank You sooo muchhh! You def help an inspired many trying to built bikes. A million Thanks
the reference to kubric is brilliant. :)
cracking vid guys, I've been thinking about this for a while and youve just made up my mind.
Your videos are so bloody helpful. Thankyou. Great stuff.
holy sweet baby jesus.....i love the channel...i love your bikes....this just blew my mind...order me up scotty!!
this is ridiculously awesome. i love you guys
saving up for my m-unit, little pricey but it looks well worth the money. Great vid!!
Excellent video, thanks for the demo.
You deserve more subscribers ...
This M unit looks very promising.
Thanx. so much information in a short amount of time. creat video.
Thanks so much for making this video :D Really helpful
Such a fantastic video. Definitely got a new subscriber out of me. Great stuff!
great demo, great product
That is bad ass! Thanks for the video
Great video. I was wondering how the idiot lights, e.g. for the turn signals (indicators in the UK!) and hi / lo beam headlight, connected up in this system?
+Adam Connolly
The best explanation for the idiot light wiring is on the m-Unit manual page 11. motogadget.com/media/downloads/manual/munit_v2_manual_en_3.2_k.pdf. But basically the neutral and oil pressure lights are switching the ground side of the electricity and this means that you connect power from the AUX output to the light, and then from the light to the respective switch, then when the switch is activated the light turns on. Then for the turn indicators and headlight high beam, power to the dash light is tapped off the power going to the actual light, and then goes through the dash light and then to ground. The one point that is different about the turn indicators is if you only have one dash light for both indicators then you need to use two diodes to prevent power from crossing from one side to the other at the dash light. On the other hand if you have two dash lights for right and left turn indicators then they can be wired directly in parallel to the primary turn indicators.
Great video, and not dry IMO. One question, at 11:50 you talk about the m wave blinker config. Does this work with LED lights? Or just regular indicator bulbs? Thanks!
***** The m-Wave blinker functionality on the m-Unit works with both LED and incandescent lighting, so you're covered either way!
Revival Cycles saweeeet!
will you do a video about the m-unit blue? also how do you connect the speedometer and tacho to this system?
The m-Unit Blue is on the list, we've got one that we are starting to test, once we get a few extra minutes we will shoot a new video. As far as connecting the speedo and tach, that all depends on what type of speedo / tacho you have. In 90% of cases, the speedo/tacho are just getting power from the m-Unit via the AUX output, the m-Unit has nothing to do with the sensing or measurement.
Thanks, this Will help Me alot.
I suppose the M unit does also work with other buttons and switches instead of the "M-button" and such? Like everyone said reaaaaally good how to video !! thanks !!!
Yep, the m-Unit will work with virtually any type of switch you want to use. That is part of what makes it so cool is that the input side of the m-Unit doesn't handle any current, and are just signals that tell the m-Unit what to turn on. Any device that can turn on and off a connection to ground will work for the input side of the m-Unit.
Love the beard brother... I'm envious.
You should give lessons on how to do a how-to video. This wasn't "dry" in the least, very informative and well thought out, no filler or shitty music, you obviously prepped before filming-bottom line, I'm coming to you when I buy one of these.
Hi i just bought an M-Unit because of how great these videos are!! can you advise me on which output i should use for a numberplate light?
Typically I like to use the AUX output for the number plate light. That way if the ignition is turned on and the engine is ready to run the number plate light is on.
On your installs do you have fuse between the M-unit and the battery? If so what rating? The 10mm^2 cable they supply to power it is really hefty. Thanks!
+Tim Flannery The m-Unit doesn't need a fuse between it and the battery, but the charging system needs a fuse between it and the battery. So as long as the charging system is fuse protected you are good. The rating of this fuse depends on the gauge of the wire coming from the charging system, most the time these are 16 gauge wire and a 20 amp fuse is appropriate. But this will depend on your specific bike.
On our installs we do not use the 10mm^2 wire because it is unnecessarily large, instead we use a very high quality 12 Ga copper wire with a cross-linked high temp insulation.
Thank you for your help.
I have ordered one for my ‘69 Bonnie ....the question is : how to manage the positive ground on that wiring ? Thanks a lot !
Thanks for the order, and I hope you've already got this info, but in case you are still wondering. The best way to deal with this is to switch to a negative earth system. It sounds worse than it is, and you really just need to take a look at the charging system and the ignition system and rearrange how they are wired.
Most ignition systems can be setup to work both ways, same is true for the regulator/rectifier in the charging system. But worst case you may need to get a new reg/rec.
Hi, and thanks for great videos. I have a FXSTB 2001 engine and frame, and are wondering how do you connect the m-unit, motoscope mini and motosign mini, and what would you keep from the old wiring harness when conncting it with the TwinCam? Or would you throw it all in the bin?
If you don't have a button there should be no problem in just attaching a wire to config and connecting it to ground for push? right? - thanks for a nice product and great videos!
Yep, that totally works, and its exactly how I do it on our builds. Its usually faster to just grab a scrap wire off the bench than to walk across the shop to find a button. Its also temporary, so no need to use a real button.
Excellent Asger. This is the answer to my question! I take it you just tap the wire on the frame to change the settings? Or am I talking shite?
Your help is appreciated.
I think it's already answered in the video , but just to confirm when running LEDs instead of incandescents with the M-Unit you don't need resistors correct?
The m-Unit doesn't require load balance resistors with LED's, and the built in flasher relay is compatible with any type of 6 or 12 volt light. However, depending on what type of LED's you are using you might need current limiting resistors. Most LED's sold for vehicle applications have this built in, but if you are building a DIY light with raw LED's you'll need some type of current control, and the easiest way is a simple current limiting resistor.
Im a Motorcycle Mechanic and a customer is brnging me a bike next week with a "M" unit installed. He,s having charging system problems, intermittent charging. Anything in the unit i should be looking at? You mentioned the aux port as having a charge wire going into it? The bike in question is a 1975 cb 550 honda.
The m-Unit really doesn't have much to do with the charging system, and the only connection between the charging system and the m-Unit is the reference or excitation voltage for field excited systems. The AUX output is just a solid state switch that provides power for the ignition system and any other circuit that needs power when the ignition is active, like the charging system. So with the 550 I think those are field excited, so there should be connection between the reg/rec and the AUX output, but if that connection is solid there isn't anything the m-Unit can do to affect charging.
Ok thanks for the reply. I will look at the usual suspects.
Hi Great Vid, I have a 1979 XLH 1000 sportster and im wondering if I need to use the starter relay?
With the m-Unit you do not need a starter relay. The start output is capable of delivering 30 amps to the stater solenoid and that is much more power than the solenoid will need. Also the m-Unit has built in load shedding relays so everything that can be off is turned off when starting so the starter has maximum available power.
Thank you heaps for the reply, also just wondering with the + input for the m-unit it comes with the 10mm cable. do I need to fuse it from the + battery to the + input of the M-Unit or can just directly connect it to the + battery terminal, because in the manual shown as 'main fuse' and not sure what actual fuse to use like 30amp? and is it worth fusing the regulator with a fuse (not sure witch fuse to use) to the same 10mm batter wire that came with the m-unit. thank you hoo much for the help.
And for those reading unsure if they should grab one of the m-units and clean up the wiring on your own pride and joy, nervously riding hoping the wiring they did or the previous owners did risking shorts and other things to happen. small out lay for major peace of mind was well worth it for me. Also very easy to wire up even for me that has no experience, worked it out and any questions these guys have been heaps of help ^^^.
Technically the m-Unit does not need a fuse for the main power input. However, the charging system should have a main fuse to protect the battery from a short circuit failure in the charging system or reg/rec.
The 10mm cable that comes with the m-Unit is sized to make you feel good, and to cover the worst case scenario, but not based on the actual electrical requirements. In this type of application 12 gauge TXL wire is rated to 40 amps, and for 90% of bikes that is more than the electrical system could possibly use or produce. NOTE: if you are using 12 Gauge you really need to use a main fuse for the m-Unit connection. But by switching to 12 gauge wire it is much easier to find a main fuse holder that works. And on our bikes I'll setup a main fuse close to the battery and use that to connect both the m-Unit and the charging system. We use either the IP67 waterproof main fuse holder that comes in our wiring kit, or the built in main fuse of the universal starter solenoid we sell. Just depends on what type of starter the bike has.
Hey, i ordered a m-unit with the m-button, but my bike is batteryless kickstart only. Will i need to stick a small battery in there? Like maybe the one you guys are using in the video?
Awesome product, wish there was some more info out on them, I purchased one through you guys, maybe you would know, what is the output on the AUX terminal? I've got one of those PAMCO units and for some reason I think it's only supposed to be fed 7.5 amps. Thx in advance
+TheGreatWhiteNorthTV
The output on the AUX is 16a so you shouldn't have any issues with the Pamco ignition. Page 7 in the manual provides the max amperage for each of the outputs.
motogadget.com/media/downloads/manual/munit_v2_manual_en_3.2_k.pdf
Can you program the m-unit to keep the turn light on for a few seconds without the need to keep the button pushed like on the old Harley-s?
Or it can just turn them off on newer models after a programmed interval?
The way that the turn signals work with an m-Unit and momentary push buttons for inputs, is as follows:
1) A very short press will flash the turn signals 3 times and then stop
2) A press for more than 1 second will activate the turn signal and it will stay active until the programmed timer count down is complete. This timer can be set at 10 sec, 20 sec, 30 sec, 40 sec, 50 sec, or no automatic cancel. Also note that activating the brake switch will reset this timer. This means the self canceling feature will only work if you are not using the brakes for the duration of the timer count down.
3) Pressing BOTH left and right buttons at the same time will activate the hazard four way flashers and turn on both left and right signals at the same time, with no self canceling timer. This will also stay active if the m-Unit is shut down and the key is removed.
Great tutorial... i just got my m unit blue. What happens to the CDI? I have a Dyna tech 3000 plugged into the factory wire harness. Thanks in advance
It depends on what you mean by CDI...that term gets used too often to describe an ignition control module, but it actually means Capacitor Discharge Ignition, and that is far less common these days. With the dyna 3000 you would just need to determine which wires are getting switched power and connect those to the AUX output or the ignition output.
Awesome product...
Quick Question. Are you wiring your ignition module and regulator to this unit as well, or there a separate unit for it???
I'm working on an 80 XS850 and it is a birdsnest. So I'm trying to figure out the best and cleanest way to rewire everything.
+fluffyD110
Both the ignition module and regulator are tied into the m-Unit. For reference, you can visit page 10 of the m-Unit manual at this link: motogadget.com/media/downloads/manual/munit_v2_manual_en_3.2_k.pdf
Your ignition will pull power from the AUX output on the m-Unit and the regulator ties into the Positive Main Terminal on the m-Unit.
If you have any more questions about your project, feel free to send us an email at websales@revivalcycles.com and we can help you out with specific wiring questions!
Hey there xs buddy. Got an xj1100 and yes the wiring is indeed a birdsnest haha. Hope your builds going well
Cool videos.
could you guys go into some details on how to wire the munit to the c.d.i.?
This may be a topic for a future video, but it is difficult to address the nuance of each different bike. The best advice I can offer is to trace out the connections from the CDI on the wire diagram. Then look for the wire that is connected to the kill switch or ignition switch, track that back and make sure it is sourcing +12V and then that is the wire that gets connected to the AUX out on the m-Unit. The rest should be connected the same as it was on the original setup.
Revival Cycles thanks guys!
Question: is the m-unit self canceling for the turn signals? If they are that would be awesome...Thank you
Yes, the m-Unit can be setup to self cancel turn signals. You can program from a selection of count down times, but also the count down timer waits to start until after you let off the brake lever.
in a previous video you mentioned that if a resistor went out, it may destroy and void the warranty of the m unit. I'm not very good with Electrical but when running your own wires would the direct line from the battery be the place to put a resistor?
I'm not sure which video you are referring too, but I'm guessing it was discussing a regulator / rectifier (reg/rec) and not a resistor. Regulators are used to limit the voltage that the charging system produces. The m-Unit has built in protections for situations where the regulator fails, by honking the horn and turning on lights to try to use up the excess power. But that will not protect the battery from a charging system or reg/rec short circuit, and this is the reason we recommend installing a main fuse between the battery and the regulator/rectifier.
hit it right on the head. exactly what i was talking about haha. sorry for the miscommunication. Ill definitely be ordering this unit and a few other bits from you in the next couple of months. this web series is incredibly helpful. Thanks!
Wow. Clever. None of this about when i sold up my shop in 2003... about a day to wire a custom bike back then....
Nice presentation of a great product.
I'm looking to get rid of both my clunky OEM instrument clusters on my 2013 Ducati 1100 EVO ABS.
How would the m-Unit control, scroll and select the finer functions of the OEM display? Such as changing miles to kilometers, changing Rider ABS intervention level, display brightness for example?
These are currently controlled by a rocker switch you move forward and backward, holding each down respectively to confirm a wanted change in preference.
Thank you,
Caswa
This is not a straightforward question, and really a bike that is sophisticated enough to have different riding modes, and ABS settings should have very high quality wiring that makes the use of an m-Unit un-necessary. Specifically with ducaiti's removing the OEM instruments and dash panel can be very problematic as they incorporate that into the anti-theft system in many cases.
We haven't re-worked the electrical on that generation of monster yet, so you may find more accurate info on the duc forums. It may be possible to remove the gauges, on your bike, but I know the bikes from the early 2000's through 2008 cannot have the gauge removed with out reprogramming or replacing the ECU to eliminate the anti-theft system.
If this is something you really want to do email techsupport@revivalcycels.com and we can help you come up with a plan, and try to give a gist of what to expect for challenges along the way.
Hi I need help! I've purchased a universal switch ignition which has 4 terminals. Three have two parallel contacts and the other just one. Which one connects to the battery and which one connects to the m-unit lock? Thanks in advance.
+Louis Emina I don't fully understand your description of the terminals on your switch, if the switch included a wire diagram of how it is setup that would help a lot. The other way is to use a multi meter and check the terminals and find a pair that is open when the switch is in the off position and closed when the switch is in the on position. This way one is connected to battery and the other is connected to lock input. With an m-Unit you should not need more than two wire connected to the ignition switch. There are a few exceptions to this, like magneto bikes, and certain dirt bikes that can run with out a battery.
When using the M-button with the M-unit, do you need an additional wire/button connected to the configure terminal to access the setup menu?
I didn't see this mentioned in the manual download you referenced. Or do you use one of the six switches connected to the M-button?
I'm getting ready to purchase the M-unit and switches but am unsure if I need to buy 2 three button units or 1 three button and a two button set.
Thank you for your time
supersportimpalass There's no need to buy an additional button, we generally use one of the buttons on the switches for programming and connect it to the proper function once we complete our configuration of the m-Unit.
Can the one wire tail/brake light function also include rear turn signals? I'm not sure I've asked that correctly, I want my stop tail led to be my turn signal as well. Thanks
+Shaun Walters This is something that has come up a few times, but the m-Unit is not setup to work this way. Although, it will work if you use another device called a tail light integrator. There are several motorcycle specific units and they usually cost about $80. There are also some simple versions that are intended for installing in a car to create a trailer light harness and these are frequently available at an auto parts store. With a little creative wiring you can make that work for about $40
you said it's 6-24v compatible? I have a 1975kz900 that needs to batteries to start (14:1 comp). could i just run 24v all the time assuming my lights and coils can handle it?
Rewiring my GSXR1100 and have questions about hi/low beam wiring with a stock switch.
Menu 5, config C seems to retain the first position low, second position high switch functionality?
Is it the low beam wire that runs from the switch to the m-unit headlight input, and the high beam wire that is no longer needed?
Thanks
Yes, you are correct. When using factory toggle switches to control headlight function with the m-Unit you connect the low beam wire to the light input on the m-Unit, and then make sure the factory switch is switching to ground (not positive the way it was originally wired) and then there is no connection for the high beam switch. The manual doesn't cover this in much detail but it is referenced at the bottom of page 4 and top of page 5.
Also menu 5, option C is the correct configuration for this switch combination.
Great informative video folks. I've ordered the V2 plus the button but would like to know is there a button you use to configure the settings?
If I lived in the US, I'd be over to you guys in a heartbeat. Wiring a sporty chop btw.
In general I don't use a dedicated button for m-Unit configuration, but instead just use a short length of wire and simply attach one end to the config input and tap the other to ground which simulates the switch but is faster than doing a permanent install. Normally we only need to do the config once.
Thank you for educating me for I am new to this work. I plan to transform all my lights units, ignition system and the regulator rectifier into 12Volts system. I am pretty sure know how to hook up the m-unit v2 to the ignition system, lights, turns signals, brake lights. Where will I hook up the regulator rectifier to and from? Will the link that i sent to you would work if i follow that schematic? Or to you have any suggestion? Thank you for your help.
Quoc Luu
Using the wiring diagram you sent to us, you would hook up the regulator rectifier as referenced in the diagram. To reiterate though, you will need to have a regulator rectifier compatible with the new engine.
if like to order one of these for my 1980 Yamaha XS650 project. I don't trust the crappy fuse box it has right now and need to add tail light. could you provide a how to guide to get installation done myself?
Hey guys i'm having a problem with the ignitionsystem and the Munit blue, my 74 hd xlh ironhead has the OEM mechanical breaker points witch got 1 wire going to the ignition coil (instead of 2 wires like electrical ignitions).
M unit says that with electrical ignition you go with wire #1 to the coil and wire #2 has to be split to coil and ignitionunit before going into the ignition Output.
my observation is that the M Unit is decades newer technology from the old fuse box design.. this is so much safer when a short happens and the fuse blows. Also it seems to me that it would also be impossible to fry wires with the M Unit almost making it impossible to burn your bike up.. I am really wanting to rewire my Kawasaki ZRX using this technology
Great video and thanks for posting! Just a quick question about the turn signals. I noticed that you only set up one signal. If you had both a left and right turn signal would you still control them with the one button? How does that work? I'm asking because I am thinking of using this set up on my bars and want to know if I should order a 2 or 3 button m-Switch. Thanks!
Saturdays Wrench We just set up one signal for the purposes of demonstration. The m-Unit has input and output terminals for both Left and Right side signals. So, using the m-Switch setup would require a button for each, left and right indicators. If you check out the product listing on our website, there's an image with all of the inputs and outputs documented for reference: revivalcycles.com/products/motogadget-m-unit-controller. (Just for clarification, use of the m-Switch does require an m-Unit to work properly.)
If you have any more questions, feel free to shoot us an email at websales@revivalcycles.com for more assistance!
Revival Cycles Yes, I figured it was just for demonstration. I guess what I'm asking is, you would set it up in a way that you would have one button on the left for the left signal and one on the right for the right signal? or would you have 2 on the left side of the bars? Thanks for the link, I will check it out. Thanks for replying also, I appreciate you guys taking the time to get back to people, it's cool.
Saturdays Wrench Apologies for the confusion! You can set the m-Switch buttons up really however you like, if you prefer a more traditional configuration with both left and right signals on the left side of your bars, you can do that. Generally, we set it up with one button on the left side of the bars for left signals and one on the right side of the bars for right signals.
Revival Cycles No worries.. Ok thanks again for everything!
Awesome video and product. Question though, when you switch the hi beam on it's just a tap on the button then you hold the button to turn the head light totally off. If you wanted to switch back to a low beam from the hi beam, would it just be another tap on the button? Probably a silly question but just want to clarify.
Thanks again for the awesome video.
You got it right. Each tap cycles through the high/low and a long press cuts the light off.
hi..is the configuration button included with the m-unit?or do i have to buy it separately? and does the m,-unit technically replaced the fuse?
+Ros ariff Roslan
The m-Unit does not include a configuration button. However, configuration button is only used during setup and it is not absolutely necessary to purchase one separately. On all our builds we just use a short length of wire to make a temporary switch, one end of the wire is inserted into the config terminal, the other is touched to a chassis ground to create a switch, just use this the same way you would a button. There is no current that flows from the config terminal so there is no risk of getting shocked, just be sure you are touching ground and not positive voltage. Once the configuration is complete, you remove the wire from config. Its quick and dirty but it gets the job done and you don't waste money on another switch.
The m-Unit does replace the fuse block. It has preset current limits for all the outputs on the m-Unit and if the current exceeds these values the m-Unit will shut down that output. There are a couple exceptions to this. First, you still need a main fuse to protect your battery from a charging system failure. And second, if you are connecting thin gauge wire to the outputs, they should be fused to the appropriate amperage for the gauge wire you are using. As an example of this, if you are using a Motogadget gauge, the wire is very small gauge and it gets power from the AUX output. The AUX output can supply 16Amps and that gauge wire should be fused at 1Amp, and therefore a fuse is required to protect the thin wire that goes to the Motogadget gauge.
+Revival Cycles great video series, helped out a lot.. a quick question .... when i have the m button installed the config input is used and when i tried to use the config button it did not work... when i removed the m button config cable i could configure the m unit as normal... this causes a problem as it is not that great to have to keep removing the m button to re configure the alarm for example... anyway i could put a switch that isolates teh m button but i was wondering if you had a better idea?
Amazing video.....
THIS IS AMAZING!!!!
Hi,
I'm thinking of getting one of the m-units for my custom built bike, imported from the States. Only problem is that the bike was wired with 0.5mm2 wiring, rated at 11amp, but the m-unit states it requires 1.5mm2 output wiring. Is 1.5mm2 wiring strictly necessary given that the headlight is the greatest draw at 5amps which is less than half the wire rating?
+Barry Taylor
The short answer is, if your wire is rated at 11 amps you should be just fine, as the m-Unit provides 10 amps to the headlight circuit.
The long answer is... Sizing wire is not a simple task. The main dependence is what the insulation of the wire is, the cross-linked high temp wire that we use its is capable of carrying higher current than general purpose wire of the same gauge or mm2. This is because the insulation withstands both the temperature increase coming from the engine, but also the temperature increase coming from the electricity flowing in the wire. The important part of sizing wire is not really how much power the device is using, but how much power can be supplied to wire in case of a short circuit. Using the headlight output as an example, the m-Unit will supply 10 amps, before tripping. That means the wire needs to be sized to handle the heat produced by 10 amps plus the ambient heat in the area the wire is installed, plus some safety factor. For us we have found that 18 gauge TXL copper wire meeting SAE-J1128 specification is adequate for m-Unit outputs and very compact.
the m-unit is so cool, its awesome, i thing i have to save some money to buy it, did you have send products to mexico?
+Harry Postres We do send products to Mexico. You can see shipping costs at the checkout screen. Thanks!!
Hi I wonder if you can help me. I've connected the m unit on my cb550 all is good except one issue. When I put the headlight on the rear also comes on BUT when I push high beam the tail light goes off. Iam scratching my head. Can't figure this one out. Everything else works. Indicators,break lights. Iam also using the 3 button mswitch
+Misdemeanor Customs It sounds like you have your tail light getting power from the low beam. This is typical of how they are wired from the factory, but with the m-Unit I think it might be easier to use the 1-wire tail light feature. You disconnect the tail light wire from the bike side of the harness and connect it to the brake light wire so that the tail light only has two connections to the bike harness (one ground, the other brake light wire connected to brake and tail wire on the bulb side). With it setup this way, you should have the original tail light wire on the bike side of the connector open and not connected to anything, this wire is not used anymore and can be taped up so it doesn't short out.
Then in the m-Unit configuration setup menu 2 as configuration C. This way the tail/brake light will get 50% power to both circuits of the tail/brake light when the brake is not active. Then when the brake is active, both circuits will have 100% power. This is all controlled in the m-Unit, and this should solve your problem.
If you have more questions or need additional clarification on how to do this email us at techsupport@revivalcycles.com
If you got a cdi powered by your generator at the flywheel, how would you go about wiring the key switch and what would Aux output be powering?
The key switch for the m-Unit is the same as it is on any of the installs, the switch provides power to the lock input. When the lock input is not powered, the m-Unit it off, when the lock input has power it is turned on. The m-Unit does not work with bikes that don't have a battery.
With a CDI type ignition system, I use the AUX to power a normally closed relay. Then the relay is used to ground the kill wire from the ignition control module. That way, when the AUX is off, the relay is closed and the kill wire is grounded (no spark). When the AUX is powered the relay is open so the CDI will generate a spark.
I really appreciate you taking the time to respond to my dumb questions! My worry is that by send high DC to the CDI via the aux output as in the motogadget wiring diagram, would I not damage it seeing as it's normally powered by the magneto?
Just to clarify, the AUX does not connect directly to the CDI. Instead, the CDI is wired up as shown on the factory diagram, so the magneto still powers the CDI, and the coils are powered by the CDI, and the pickup coils tell the CDI when to spark. But the AUX is used to control a normally closed relay that replaces the manually operated kill switch or key switch.
Got it !! That diagram with aux spliced into the ignition coil feed confused the hell out of me. Just got the headlight low/high beam with oem controls and m-button to suss now. Thanks again for your help.✌️
Take a look at the manual on the bottom of page 4 and the top of page 5, that explains the hookup for stock controls on the headlight. But basically it uses the stock toggle switch like a true / false input, if the llight input is grounded, that tells the m-Unit low beam, if the light input is not grounded that means high beam. So you only connect the low beam wire from the switch to the input, and the high beam wire from the switch is not connected to anything.
The m-Button is wired up exactly as shown in the diagrams, there is nothing special about using stock switches. The magic happens in the m-Unit when you setup the configuration of menu 5. Make sure the configuration matches the type of switches you are using.
Can this be used on an Escooter if I have a battery pack? How much battery voltage would I need and how would I know the voltage I would need? Do I add up the wattage of the headlights, turn signal lights etc.? I'm interested in using the motogadget handlebar turn signal lights, probably a high lumen bicycle head light and a battery operated horn. How can I do that?
Hi, we're using a two way 3 wire rocker switch for the headlight, scratching our heads how we wire low high beam switch in.
Low beam wire does not connect to anything. The best plan is to use some heat shrink to cap the end so it can't accidentally touch something and cause problems
Thank you.
where is a good place to find a key with ignition, or a good way around it?
We have one available on our store revivalcycles.com/products/universal-under-tank-ignition-switch
If you are looking for a way around it, you can use a simple toggle switch, or latching push button. But details depend on exactly what you are trying to do.
Hi Stephen,
Looking on internet i cannot figure out the output specs in "one wire tail light mode", i see that you can choose bulbs or leds in the menu, but is it amps or voltage regulation with leds? have you got some specs to give?
Also, regulators are running aroud 13,5v in use, so, do the m-unit realy deliver 12v or is it just a value given in usual admittance (as for batteries when we know they are "normaly" around 12.85v), to resume do the m-unit provide 12v ? or do outputs follows the régulator tension in input?
Great video Bro, thanks a lot!
We don't have the detailed specs for the 1-wire tail light, but I can give some general info on the subject. The 1-wire mode will perform some pulse width modulation to reduce the total power sent to the tail light and then when the brake input is grounded by the brake switches, the m-Unit sends full power to the tail light. The difference between the LED and Standard bulb mode is the frequency of the pulse width modulation. The standard bulb uses a slower rate than the LED because if the LED was pulsed at the standard bulb rate it would be noticeable as a flickering.
The m-Unit will output the same voltage as what is provided to it, it does not change the voltage to the outputs. So if your battery or regulator is at 13.5v then the outputs will be 13.5v. I have tested this and found only a very small difference between the input and output, but it is so small it can be ignored.
To be clear the m-Unit does not do any regulation of the voltage or the current in the system. BUT in the case of the 1-wire tail light it does use pulse width modulation (turn on/off very quickly) to reduce the brightness of the light.
Thanks a lot....
Can you wire it up using a battery eliminator capacitor?
The m-Unit is not compatible with battery eliminator capacitors. But these days with the incredibly small size of LiFePO4 batteries, there is not much need for the eliminator capacitors on kick only bikes. If you would like to discuss the details of an application or spec a battery for your bike email us at techsupport@revivalcycles.com Thanks!
hallo is it possible You make a video a bout the c5ig ignition i woud like tot sees hoe it work with special for a virago
Thanks for the request, the C5 ignition tech talk is on the list, but we haven't scheduled it yet...we will move it up on the priority list. This is the best ignition system we've found, simple to install, simple to time, extremely effective, and perfectly accurate.
We have installed many aftermarket ignitions and this is the C5 is the best.
wow thank You for the fast respons i all ready orderd the 'm unit because of this video for my virago i 'm looping for werd for the c5ig for the virago alle ready thanks
Yea those C5 ignitions are great, and while we don't have all the models listed on our webstore, we are an official dealer and can get you whatever you need. We can also program custom ignition curves if you want to do something specific. We've got the C5 on the list for tech talks, but there are a few topics that are ahead of it.
Revival Cycles I want to add a horn brake and indicator lights on my off road bike , just powers by a single antigravity battery , and m unit is this possible ? Thanks
Is the switch in this video the two position switch that y'all offer?
Also, do I still need a starter solenoid or is that built in as well?
+Alex Carter
You got it, that is the same switch we offer on the site and use on most of our builds. There's also a 3 position available if you need.
+Alex Carter
The m-Unit does not replace the starter solenoid, but in most applications that is the only relay that needs to be retained.
Let us know if you have any other questions, you can also direct them to websales@revivalcycles.com and we'll be happy to help you out.
Hello, first of all great video!
Very informative!
I have a question can I use stock handle bar switches (Honda CB750K)on this m-unit?
Thanks
+Masayoshi Terada
While you can use your stock switches with the m-Unit we don't generally recommend it. One of the primary benefits of installing an m-Unit is to eliminate variables that could cause a failure and the OEM controls on vintage bikes are a frequent source for electrical gremlins.
Here's a link to a PDF of the manual, motogadget.com/media/downloads/manual/munit_v2_manual_en_3.2_k.pdf
Page 8 section 7.7 shows which configuration is required for Japanese bikes, configuration (C)
Modification to the wiring is required for the headlight switch to function correctly, you can find the description at the bottom of page 4 and a diagram at the top of page 5
Can I use this with just a battery to add a horn brake and indicator light on my off road. Ike ? Thanks
In theory you could add an m-Unit and a battery and run it as a total loss system. But if you want to go this route, I strongly suggest using LED lighting, the LED's draw a lot less power and that will make it so the battery lasts longer.
Also, you should do some research there may be an aftermarket stator and reg/rec for your bike so you can actually add a charging system, that way you won't have to run as a total loss and it will work more like a normal street bike.
So, If I use the M-Unit I'm not going to need to use a fuse box and a starter relay/solenoid?
Very nice video. I am sold and I will purchase ALL my motogadget gear from your website! I have a two questions, is it possible to set it up so all the turn signals flash at the same time? It would be useful for lane splitting. Also, can I connect the handlebar signals on top of the other 4 turn signals to the M-Unit? Thank you!
Yes there is a "hazzard" flashing feature on the m-Unit, just push both left and right turn signal buttons at the same time. That does mean you need to have momentary push button controls for the turn signals, and you would not be able to use a stock style toggle switch for the turn signal control.
Hey did you guys finally get the M unit working with the LED taillight blinker combo?
Its not completely clear what you are referencing, but we have been able to find solutions to every lighting setup so far. If you are talking about a combination tail/brake/turn LED setup, then the best solution we've found is to use a hopkins LED trailer light converter to manage the brake/turn interaction.
@@RevivalCycles if I wanted to wire in a relay would I do that through the AUX? Yes I am referring to exactly that, thanks for the quick response, you guys should get on reddit!
Right with the original V2 m-Unit you would power a relay coil off the AUX output. But with the new m-Unit Blue or Basic, you have two new AUX outputs in addition to the ignition output so you might be able to just use AUX 1 or AUX 2 instead of adding a relay.
@@RevivalCycles Awesome thanks for the information! Seriously look into getting on reddit you'll probably be able to push some product and gather some attention to this through it!
Thx for the tips, we'll get the media guys to take a look at that. It does get tricky to manage all the different social platforms, but hey if it was easy everyone would do it.
hi mate , its possible to connect a fuel pump to the m unit? if so, where in the m unit will go?
Yes the fuel pump can be connected with the m-Unit, and it would be supplied power via the AUX output. However, the fuel pump should still be controlled by the ECU and that means you'll need a fuel pump relay. Once you have to add a fuel pump relay back into the system, then its just as easy to power the fuel pump directly from the battery.
It is good practice to have the fuel pump controlled by the ECU so that it doesn't run the entire time the bike is on even when the engine isn't running.
i know this is an old video but can you set this up for 4 way flashers to
Yep, the m-Unit will do 4-way flashers if you are using momentary push button switches for the turn signal inputs. The 4-way function cannot be activated if using a stock style toggle switch for the turn signals, because the m-Unit needs to see both inputs pressed at the same time and that isn't possible with the stock switch.
Ive got a 1994 sportster 883. Just bought the motogadget m-unit. Couple of questions, because the schematic isnt as straight forward as it seems!
It shows a wire going from the ignition module to aux (m unit). which wire do i select? Ive kept the electronic ignition and will re run cable for oil sender. That i can deal with.
Also, do i now just bin the voltage regulator at the front of my bike?
Comments appreciated.
In the UK, so its not so harley orientated!! Cant just zip down the mechanics shop and pick his brain.....
+Dwayne Moss Thanks for your question! There are two parts to the answer. Hope this helps!
a) Ignition system. The ignition system remains as it was from the factory, any sensors, CDI's, fuel pump relays, or ECU's are still maintained. The way they integrate with the m-Unit is by getting power from the "AUX" output. The specific wires that you need to deliver power to are the ones that would have originally been powered by the ignition key switch. With out having a clear wire diagram for your specific bike it is not possible to determine which wires need to be connected to "AUX".
b) Charging system. The regulator rectifier is still retained, and is connected as it was on the original bike. In some cases the reg/rec needs to get a switched reference voltage and this provided by the "AUX" output. In the case of a Harley Sportster my recolection is that this is a simple single phase permenant magnet system and there are 4 wires that come from the reg/rec. Two come from inside the engine and this is where the AC power comes from, then the other two are the DC side, one will connect to ground (either at the battery or on the frame) the other should be the regulated +12 V and this connects to the positive terminal of the battery via a main fuse.
hello. I've fitted the v2 to my bobber build - all new wiring. I'm have an issue with when I've got the lights on, it works fine. when I put on high beam it turns off my tail light. it's a twin wire, twin bulb rear lamp. how do stop the tail light turning off when I go on to high beam? thank you.
This sounds like you may have your tail light wired into the low beam of the headlight, like some OEM setups do. I usually find it is easier to set up the tail light using the 1-wire feature. To do this disconnect the tail light wire from the rest of the bike and then tie the tail light wire and the brake light wire together , and then configure menu 2 as option B for LED bulbs or C for standard incandescent bulbs. This will allow the m-Unit to control the tail/brake functions. Just to be clear you tie the power wire for the brake light and the power wire for the tail light together, the ground wires still connect to ground.
If you need more details or have more questions, email techsupport@revivalcycles.com Thanks!