I thought this was an output problem, seeing that a few old PCI cards of mine are having the same issues. I’ll start replacing those capacitors too. Thanks! :D
2 роки тому+1
@@Inject0r The thing is that the caps are there to filter the voltage to make it more stable for our IC's as you know, but the voltage ripple is due to the IC switching in the first place, for example the VSA100, or a ram chip. We do know that we want good stable voltage to our IC's but a side effect of bad caps is that the ripple goes else where to. So I suppose you can look at the caps as both filters for the chips there meant to serve but also guards making sure other parts of the circuit is not effected by ripple the IC's produces. I saw this with my oscilloscope when designing some stuff my self with a 555 timer. So I suppose thats the take away from this repair, bad caps effect more then what it was meant to protect and supply clean voltage to. I have an also ISA card with leaky caps on the way in to that has bad image to, did not have that 2 months ago the owner say, probably the same problem. So yea bad image quality on analog output seems like a possible indicator for bad caps.
I have the exact same issue with my Voodoo 5 card too! Did a recap, and whilst it did slightly improve the artifacts, unfortunately they still persist.
2 роки тому+1
Did you replace the 10uf only or did you also do the 470 and 100 polys? I have seen people measuring those as bad. I did replace those after I did the last oscilloscope measurement mostly as a precaution. I think there are some other caps on the board to but sadly not everything is cause by bad caps, I use to say 80% bad caps, then 10% traces repair and the last 10% is bad IC's, mosfets, voltage regulators, SMD ceramic resistors and caps. I dont have a Voodo5 so this is the only one I worked on and picture quality was perfectly solid both on capture card and monitor after the replacing the 10uf, but usually with bad caps on GFX cards what I see is 3D rendering being highly unstable, 2D not so much or image quality.
Great work! I'm repairing a 5500 right now and plan to do a full recap on it also. I don't have any symptoms like this, but at 22 years old, I think special cards like this deserve proactive maintenance 🙂 .. I was going to skip the two big polymer caps, but ended up ordering them anyway. I've used side-cutters to just decapitate the smaller electrolytics for removal, but will give the twist method a try as well. Does twisting work on the larger polymer caps also? I've never removed polymers before. Thanks!
2 роки тому+1
The big once I would use hot air the legs are thicker, you can use hot air on any caps you want to remove because there dead anyways and heating the board from the bottom a bit first helps. But sometimes the twist back and fort is desirable if there is plastics and stuff next to it. People in the comments dont like the twist method tough the people that ask for help dont mind because it worked so fare but I tend to use hot air to remove them nowadays, it might cause a spill of electrolyte if the caps are bad where the o-rings sometimes leak but it can be cleaned up. You can check out a later video where I use hotair to remove them ua-cam.com/video/ygvR_2Jsb84/v-deo.html Its time stamped. Polymers are "dry" so should not leak tough. I did the big polymers because someone removed his and measured very high esr on them and I did have two bigger really good once, there 1000uf BUT if you measure and check all they do is filter incoming voltage from the molex so its bulk filtering so not to woried about capacity as long as there at least as good as the original. I dont have an esr meter yet so replacing them was the the only way to know they would be good and one was damaged a bit from a hit so figured better safe then sorry. Also no mater what method you use you need to practice it on something of no value, I prefer old dead router boards and such, things might work in your head but how things "react" when you actually do it might not be what you expect so practice is the most important thing. You can buy some extra caps and practice solder and desolder on something of no value first. Then the risk of breaking stuff is a slot lower once you know what works for you and how it feels doing it.
@ Thanks for the tips! I never considered removing caps with hot air but your video makes it look really easy. I may give that a try. On a positive note, I was able to repair the Voodoo 5 successfully. It had a long list of problems that needed to be fixed - three missing SMD components, solder bridges caused by the previous owner, bad TSOP SDRAM chip and bad solder joints on the power regulation chip. It is finally running stable on both VSAs now after fixing all of those problems. After watching your video, I noticed my card also has a small amount of "noise" on the VGA output. Especially in text modes (BIOS POST screens etc). It's not nearly as bad as the card you repaired, but I'm going to do the full recap and see if it disappears. Thanks again.
2 роки тому
@@vswitchzero Sounds like a lot of work but it paid of at the end. Have fun with the Voodoo5!
Great video, man. We need more content like that. Just ignore the FUD-loving know-it-alls. Say, what oscilloscope do you use with your computer?
2 роки тому
TY! Its the Hantek 6022BE, its 20Mhz if I recall, 2 Channels, its not the best by any means but its portable, you get 2 probes with it, its low cost, around 80€. Its the difference between seeing and being blind. You can use the sigrok.org/ software with it so should work with most OS/Computers. Im happy with it, its very basic but gets the job done on a budget, saves me space not having the extra screen. There is a version of the Hantek scope with a built in logic analyzer to BUT last I checked it did not work properly with the sigrok software, seems to be a more problematic version so I would probably buy a separate logical analyzer if that's of interest.
@ To be honest, I was impressed it even had Linux support, so I'm definitely getting one of those
Рік тому
Did you ever get a scope? Im have been trying out "openhantek" openhantek.org/ github.com/OpenHantek/OpenHantek6022/releases With that program it works more like an oscilloscope, sigrok is useful but cant use the continuous mode so. ua-cam.com/video/8xSnUUgV1VE/v-deo.html The only decent video I found about it. Only problem I noticed having sigrok and openhantek installed at the same time is that openhantek cant find it if sigrok ran before it, power cycling it is then needed.
No no no you never twist off caps, you risk lifting or tearing the lands/ traces. All you need is a reflow gun station and tweezers.
2 роки тому
Who wrote that rule? I used this method with 100% success rate for 3 years now. Think I stick with what works. ua-cam.com/video/X8N9O3a9jiM/v-deo.html There are plenty of people using this method with good reliable results.
@ ipc certifications. I work in the field professionally for a company. I am class3 smt/ aoi/ rework/ wave solder/ selective solder trained. The lans are litterally held on by glue and the lands themselves are only .02mm thick copper foil that is nickel/silver/gold plated. You may have done it the first time on each individual board but when it comes to the second time it will lift. This is because the bond between surfaces has been broken and now exposes these surfaces to moisture in the air which will effect the pcb underneath as time passes.
2 роки тому
@@FullMetal-Tech I have done it a second time for testing/practice and nothing lifted then. Good you have training, some of us mere morals just have to get by I suppose.
OK, I now understood that I need to unsubscribe this channel. You are literally not the type of "content creator" that I want to follow. Good riddance!
The twisting method should not be attempted on leaded through-hole caps! Only surface mount electrolytics.
2 роки тому+1
There are no trough holes on this board. Just to clarify. Never considered twisting trough holes, fun getting whats left of the legs out then then XD The easiest way I find with normal trough hole caps is a tip wide enough to touch bot legs, that way the can even fall out due to gravity.
That behavior is not indicative of a capacitor problem. It’s something that I often see on LCD monitors and it always goes away with an “Auto image configuration” which adjusts the clock and phase.
2 роки тому+2
So your saying my friends countless numbers of CRT's and LCD monitors being one of the biggest collectors of retro hardware in Sweden is all by chance having the same issue, CRT's included? And your saying my LCD plus my capture card all have the same fault and it went away when I replaced the caps, yea maybe your logic here is broken. You honestly think that I dont know where the auto adjust button is on a monitor after 20 years with LCD's, and you think that no one tried it and the V5 still gives poor image on ANY type of monitor.
@ I am not saying that, I'm saying that I've seen this exact same behavior hundreds of times, including today with a Radeon 9800 PRO. In my specific case, it always happens whenever I test many video cards and I swap them (which always requires a readjustment of the LCD clock/pitch and phase). PS: you are a bit jumpy, my friend, not sure why. 🙂I didn't mean to offend you or anything, I'm just stating my own experience.
2 роки тому+1
@@ruxandy You are implying that people are morons, your also forgetting that the prof is in the video, also that no "auto" adjust exist on my VGA to HDMI adapter and capture card so nothing but caps changed in between. IT dose the same thing on my NEC 274WMi monitor, that is extremely forgiving on VGA single Enterprise monitor with auto adjust. Also the owner has tested multiple computers and monitors being a big collector, biggest I know of of PC retro hardware. Most people using an LCD know how to use the auto adjust, This is NOT an adjustment issue! This is ripple propagating to the VGA signals and port.
@ No, sorry you understood it like that, it was not my intention to imply that anyone is a "moron". I was simply mentioning the fact that most of the time I'm seeing the same behavior under different circumstances, I'm definitely not disputing that in your particular case the cause might very well be faulty caps.
You are the best 3dfx expert on UA-cam looking forward to see anew video :-)
Very sucessful repair, I love 3dfx hardware
Fantastic video! Really cool to see your methodology. Great stuff as always :)
Thank you. This is literally the problem that I have with my Voodoo5 PCI as well. A cap replacement should be a very simple fix for me.
Yea its relatively easy fix as fixes goes so good luck!
I thought this was an output problem, seeing that a few old PCI cards of mine are having the same issues.
I’ll start replacing those capacitors too.
Thanks! :D
@@Inject0r The thing is that the caps are there to filter the voltage to make it more stable for our IC's as you know, but the voltage ripple is due to the IC switching in the first place, for example the VSA100, or a ram chip.
We do know that we want good stable voltage to our IC's but a side effect of bad caps is that the ripple goes else where to.
So I suppose you can look at the caps as both filters for the chips there meant to serve but also guards making sure other parts of the circuit is not effected by ripple the IC's produces.
I saw this with my oscilloscope when designing some stuff my self with a 555 timer.
So I suppose thats the take away from this repair, bad caps effect more then what it was meant to protect and supply clean voltage to.
I have an also ISA card with leaky caps on the way in to that has bad image to, did not have that 2 months ago the owner say, probably the same problem.
So yea bad image quality on analog output seems like a possible indicator for bad caps.
I have the exact same issue with my Voodoo 5 card too! Did a recap, and whilst it did slightly improve the artifacts, unfortunately they still persist.
Did you replace the 10uf only or did you also do the 470 and 100 polys? I have seen people measuring those as bad. I did replace those after I did the last oscilloscope measurement mostly as a precaution.
I think there are some other caps on the board to but sadly not everything is cause by bad caps, I use to say 80% bad caps, then 10% traces repair and the last 10% is bad IC's, mosfets, voltage regulators, SMD ceramic resistors and caps.
I dont have a Voodo5 so this is the only one I worked on and picture quality was perfectly solid both on capture card and monitor after the replacing the 10uf, but usually with bad caps on GFX cards what I see is 3D rendering being highly unstable, 2D not so much or image quality.
Great video and thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Best regards
Great work! I'm repairing a 5500 right now and plan to do a full recap on it also. I don't have any symptoms like this, but at 22 years old, I think special cards like this deserve proactive maintenance 🙂 .. I was going to skip the two big polymer caps, but ended up ordering them anyway. I've used side-cutters to just decapitate the smaller electrolytics for removal, but will give the twist method a try as well. Does twisting work on the larger polymer caps also? I've never removed polymers before. Thanks!
The big once I would use hot air the legs are thicker, you can use hot air on any caps you want to remove because there dead anyways and heating the board from the bottom a bit first helps. But sometimes the twist back and fort is desirable if there is plastics and stuff next to it.
People in the comments dont like the twist method tough the people that ask for help dont mind because it worked so fare but I tend to use hot air to remove them nowadays, it might cause a spill of electrolyte if the caps are bad where the o-rings sometimes leak but it can be cleaned up.
You can check out a later video where I use hotair to remove them ua-cam.com/video/ygvR_2Jsb84/v-deo.html
Its time stamped.
Polymers are "dry" so should not leak tough.
I did the big polymers because someone removed his and measured very high esr on them and I did have two bigger really good once, there 1000uf BUT if you measure and check all they do is filter incoming voltage from the molex so its bulk filtering so not to woried about capacity as long as there at least as good as the original.
I dont have an esr meter yet so replacing them was the the only way to know they would be good and one was damaged a bit from a hit so figured better safe then sorry.
Also no mater what method you use you need to practice it on something of no value, I prefer old dead router boards and such, things might work in your head but how things "react" when you actually do it might not be what you expect so practice is the most important thing. You can buy some extra caps and practice solder and desolder on something of no value first.
Then the risk of breaking stuff is a slot lower once you know what works for you and how it feels doing it.
@ Thanks for the tips! I never considered removing caps with hot air but your video makes it look really easy. I may give that a try. On a positive note, I was able to repair the Voodoo 5 successfully. It had a long list of problems that needed to be fixed - three missing SMD components, solder bridges caused by the previous owner, bad TSOP SDRAM chip and bad solder joints on the power regulation chip. It is finally running stable on both VSAs now after fixing all of those problems. After watching your video, I noticed my card also has a small amount of "noise" on the VGA output. Especially in text modes (BIOS POST screens etc). It's not nearly as bad as the card you repaired, but I'm going to do the full recap and see if it disappears. Thanks again.
@@vswitchzero Sounds like a lot of work but it paid of at the end. Have fun with the Voodoo5!
That is one rare card, not to mention PCI version.
Great video, man. We need more content like that.
Just ignore the FUD-loving know-it-alls. Say, what oscilloscope do you use with your computer?
TY!
Its the Hantek 6022BE, its 20Mhz if I recall, 2 Channels, its not the best by any means but its portable, you get 2 probes with it, its low cost, around 80€.
Its the difference between seeing and being blind.
You can use the sigrok.org/ software with it so should work with most OS/Computers.
Im happy with it, its very basic but gets the job done on a budget, saves me space not having the extra screen.
There is a version of the Hantek scope with a built in logic analyzer to BUT last I checked it did not work properly with the sigrok software, seems to be a more problematic version so I would probably buy a separate logical analyzer if that's of interest.
@ To be honest, I was impressed it even had Linux support, so I'm definitely getting one of those
Did you ever get a scope? Im have been trying out "openhantek"
openhantek.org/
github.com/OpenHantek/OpenHantek6022/releases
With that program it works more like an oscilloscope, sigrok is useful but cant use the continuous mode so.
ua-cam.com/video/8xSnUUgV1VE/v-deo.html
The only decent video I found about it.
Only problem I noticed having sigrok and openhantek installed at the same time is that openhantek cant find it if sigrok ran before it, power cycling it is then needed.
@ Still haven't got it. Thanks though, I'll keep it in mind
No no no you never twist off caps, you risk lifting or tearing the lands/ traces. All you need is a reflow gun station and tweezers.
Who wrote that rule?
I used this method with 100% success rate for 3 years now. Think I stick with what works.
ua-cam.com/video/X8N9O3a9jiM/v-deo.html
There are plenty of people using this method with good reliable results.
@ ipc certifications. I work in the field professionally for a company. I am class3 smt/ aoi/ rework/ wave solder/ selective solder trained. The lans are litterally held on by glue and the lands themselves are only .02mm thick copper foil that is nickel/silver/gold plated. You may have done it the first time on each individual board but when it comes to the second time it will lift. This is because the bond between surfaces has been broken and now exposes these surfaces to moisture in the air which will effect the pcb underneath as time passes.
@@FullMetal-Tech I have done it a second time for testing/practice and nothing lifted then.
Good you have training, some of us mere morals just have to get by I suppose.
OK, I now understood that I need to unsubscribe this channel.
You are literally not the type of "content creator" that I want to follow. Good riddance!
@@ruxandy Just unsubbed as well. Way too dense.
The twisting method should not be attempted on leaded through-hole caps! Only surface mount electrolytics.
There are no trough holes on this board.
Just to clarify.
Never considered twisting trough holes, fun getting whats left of the legs out then then XD
The easiest way I find with normal trough hole caps is a tip wide enough to touch bot legs, that way the can even fall out due to gravity.
@ I want to donate a Quadro FX1000 to you for your channel, are you interested? I can send it at my expense, it's yours to keep.
That behavior is not indicative of a capacitor problem. It’s something that I often see on LCD monitors and it always goes away with an “Auto image configuration” which adjusts the clock and phase.
So your saying my friends countless numbers of CRT's and LCD monitors being one of the biggest collectors of retro hardware in Sweden is all by chance having the same issue, CRT's included?
And your saying my LCD plus my capture card all have the same fault and it went away when I replaced the caps, yea maybe your logic here is broken.
You honestly think that I dont know where the auto adjust button is on a monitor after 20 years with LCD's, and you think that no one tried it and the V5 still gives poor image on ANY type of monitor.
@ I am not saying that, I'm saying that I've seen this exact same behavior hundreds of times, including today with a Radeon 9800 PRO. In my specific case, it always happens whenever I test many video cards and I swap them (which always requires a readjustment of the LCD clock/pitch and phase).
PS: you are a bit jumpy, my friend, not sure why. 🙂I didn't mean to offend you or anything, I'm just stating my own experience.
@@ruxandy You are implying that people are morons, your also forgetting that the prof is in the video, also that no "auto" adjust exist on my VGA to HDMI adapter and capture card so nothing but caps changed in between. IT dose the same thing on my NEC 274WMi monitor, that is extremely forgiving on VGA single Enterprise monitor with auto adjust.
Also the owner has tested multiple computers and monitors being a big collector, biggest I know of of PC retro hardware.
Most people using an LCD know how to use the auto adjust, This is NOT an adjustment issue! This is ripple propagating to the VGA signals and port.
@ No, sorry you understood it like that, it was not my intention to imply that anyone is a "moron". I was simply mentioning the fact that most of the time I'm seeing the same behavior under different circumstances, I'm definitely not disputing that in your particular case the cause might very well be faulty caps.
@ Jeez man, relax. Way to alienate viewers.