Steve, here in the uk i use a dishwasher rinse aid called "Finish" to reduce surface tension on the water in the base collector, I'm sure you can find something similar in your location, only one or two drops is necessary to achieve desired effect, much less in bubbling usually only about half a dozen bubbles or so, much easier to dispel these bubbles, hope it helps.
Woah this is pretty complicated, I can see how it took so long to perfect, but the results are gorgeous, wow! And you've got a very strong neck, that wimpy Electroboom guy is clearly envious.
Timestamps: 1:10 What is a double drop 2:20 System overviews 3:28 Liquid reservoir 7:27 Drop solenoid 10:31 Drop zone 14:36 System controller 16:35 Camera and flashes 21:21 Conclusion
@@antoninmignot3723 Took me about 2 years...but this doesn't really reflect the actual time put into it as I only worked on it in my spare time (day job and all). You can be up and running with a purchased system in an afternoon. The time for me was in designing and building the circuit board, and sourcing all the bits and pieces. I would suspect, building from scratch and ordering parts etc...you could be up and running in a month or two.
@@SteveKazemir Finally getting there, due to my health I purchased a ready made solution, but I am having great fun. Is there a way I can show you some of my results.
Indeed...other than extremely shallow water, I found the depth of the container had little or nothing to do with Jet height. Likewise, I was surprised to see that the height that I drop from had little effect too, once you get passed a certain height. What really seemed to help, was reducing the surface tension of the water, with a bit of soap (not too much). But then you need to deal with bubbles forming in the dish!
Nice setup, great video. I shot a sub to Patreon. In the process of gathering parts to start a setup for myself. I dabbled years ago, but that was a pinhole in a bag of water and me trying to fire the shutter on time with a remote. Looking to take it to the next level.
Fantastic! Thank you so much for your support! I too tried the manual drip and click...you can get some good results, but I found you need to take a LOT of images, and get lucky to get a good one. Good luck with the next level, and let me know if I can help in some way.
Hi Steve, Fantastic video. My wife has recently decided that she wants to do some splash photography and has asked if I could build a setup like yours. Is it possible to get a copy of your schematic, pcb layout and source code?
Paul, I am glad you (and/or your wife) found the video helpful! I would be glad to provide you with help/documentation, and answer any specific questions. This is offered to any of my Patrons. www.patreon.com/KazemirPhoto
That looks fantastic great work . Could you please tell me where and the name of the circuit board I’m thinking of looking into it . Thanking you Michelle
Michelle, I am glad you enjoyed the video. There are three circuit boards in the video, all stacked together. The LCD board on the top, and that is plugged into a Nucleo board. Links to both of these are in the description of the video. The third bottom board is a circuit board I made myself, so you can't really buy it. I would be happy to share the schematic and board layout, but that is only useful if you understand electronics, can build your own board, and write firmware. If that is the case, let me know. If not, then there are many double drop systems commercially available that would probably do a better job than my setup. Good luck! and let me know if I can help some way.
Brilliant video, so much information thank you very much. My electronic skills are not too hot, so I don't think I would be confident to build the "brain" myself. I am tempted by a Pluto (or some other) trigger, but I am not sure if that would interface smoothly with a "homemade" solenoid valve set-up. Any thoughts?
I haven't used nor really researched the Pluto, so I can't say for sure. With electronics, there is always a way to do it, but it may be complicated. I took a quick look at the web page and saw there is a "Pluto Valve" available for $32 (on sale from regular $40, plutotrigger.com/products/pluto-valve). At that price, I think this is the easiest approach. Guaranteed to work with your Pluto trigger! Anyone from Pluto our there? Maybe you would like to send me a system for evaluation? I would love to try it out and make a video of my experience!! :)
@@SteveKazemir You're right :( I just don't know enough to do it and Pluto have not been helpful. What I want to do it multiple drops, but I had better walk before I run I suppose and dust off my old electronics books - I should have paid more attention in class!!
@@suenix1179 As I mentioned, I haven't tried Pluto...but I suspect UA-cam is your friend. I did find this overview of Pluto (ua-cam.com/video/2nVB8D6jfBM/v-deo.html). I would assume the trigger will come with a manual explaining how to use it...but I know manuals vary in quality :(. Good luck on your venture! Let me know if you ever have any specific questions and I will help where I can.
Thank you for sharing your experience - just a small point, it is depth of field, not depth of focus. Depth of focus relates to using microscope objectives, which do not have a depth of field. Another point where newcomers get confused is what is macro photography, it is making small objects larger from a 1:1 ratio up to 30 X magnifications, photomicrography is extending the magnifications from low power macro, up to several hundred X (times). Micro photography is making large things smaller than Life-size, such as landscapes, portraits, including micro dot imaging is again reducing say an A4 document to a pinhead size image. Many non scientific imagers often get confused by the correct definitions .
I must have misspoke...I meant Depth of Field...as that is what photographers generally talk about in the acronym DOF. Thank you for the clarification. I did not know there was a technical definition for "Depth of Focus". I found this definition online: "depth of field concerns the image quality of a stationary lens as an object is repositioned, whereas depth of focus concerns a stationary object and a sensor’s ability to maintain focus for different sensor positions, including tilt." So in one case the object is "moving" and in the other, it is the sensor that is moving. Seems to me this really depends on your "frame of reference" :)
@@SteveKazemir In another medical /scientific working lifetime, this sort of imaging was a daily routine -making tiny objects bigger, and the terminology was one of the first things I learnt when starting my university courses in this speialist field. Funny what sticks in the mind sometimes. Anyway, enjoyed your presentation and looking forward to my Pluto Trigger experience at age 82+. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the info. The soap I used was Nature Clean...Environmentally safe, "green" etc. But I am sure there may be better stuff out there. I would be interested in hearing a specific brand/name if you have it. Any soap that is less "bubbly" would be better. I heard that the bubbles are not necessary for cleaning, but are actually added to make us humans think it is cleaning better. I could use soap without any bubbles....that would be the best!
To get rid of the foam and soap bubbles, either add a very small amount of a siloxane based defoamer, or pup then all using flame of a propane hand torch.
@@SteveKazemir Glad it is helpful... I came across the use of a torch when I was once getting lots of foam after pouring a resin mixture in its mold, the torch was a life saver! In terms of defaoming additives, usually they are either oil based or siloxane based. The oil based ones are weaker in breaking foams and therefore you'd need more to use, which could then lead to solubility issues... The siloxane based ones are super effective at very low doses and therefore don't cause solubility issues at their effective use doses.
@@H2O2FA Now I just need to go buy a torch and try and find some siloxane based defoamer! Torch should be easy, but is the defoamer easy to find? I haven't searched yet. If I find some online, I will post it here for others.
@@SteveKazemir Try torch and see if you like it, Ir will work but you have to use it after every run. The defoamer option would be more automatic per se, Evonic manufactures a wide variety of defoamer under the brand name Tego. Best for this application could be Tego Antifoam 4-88 (www.polymer-dispersions.com/product/polymer-dispersions/en/products/product-search/brand/pages/product-details.aspx?xd_co_f=OTBlYmY2NDgtZGJkZi00YzFjLWI1NWEtYjRlN2E3NGMwNTNh&productId=70192#) you can request for a free sample from their website, which should last a very long time since extremely low concentration of it will deliver the defaming performance!
They key items are in the video...build away! If you become a Patron, I would be glad to assist with any specific questions you may have as you build. (www.patreon.com/KazemirPhoto)
Very good observation...I should have included this in the video! I did try this previously with limited success, but I think at the time I was limited by the ceiling of my garage! (Didn't want to drill holes in the ceiling to get it higher :) )
Good question...unfortunately, I have no idea! Only use this system for short periods of time. Good luck with your project. I would love to see the results when you are done!
Good point, and you are absolutely right. However, this also means you would need more space, and a bigger background. I could probably give myself more space, and I am sure I could move my foam boards back further. However, the foam boards are only so big, so I would hit a limit. Thanks!
There are several suppliers of these types of systems, thanks for letting us know about this one. Do you have a link? I searched and only found one for $399 (Cognisys). Would be great if the company would lend me one to try/review! :) I am cheap...and I like projects, so built my own. Thanks for watching!
This guy is amazing he just RE INVENTED the wheel, lets all praise him, Miops system in existence, Splashart in existence and many more
Steve, here in the uk i use a dishwasher rinse aid called "Finish" to reduce surface tension on the water in the base collector, I'm sure you can find something similar in your location, only one or two drops is necessary to achieve desired effect, much less in bubbling usually only about half a dozen bubbles or so, much easier to dispel these bubbles, hope it helps.
Run into this video for pure case. Loved it. Very detailed. Thanks for sharing 👏👏👏👏
Awesome video and very entertaining. You give lots of information and it's easy to understand in video format. Very impressed!
Thank you so much Corrie! For the comment, and all the information in your eBook!
Wow! Very impressive! Thank you for sharing Steve!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Woah this is pretty complicated, I can see how it took so long to perfect, but the results are gorgeous, wow!
And you've got a very strong neck, that wimpy Electroboom guy is clearly envious.
My neck thanks you for the compliment!
Timestamps:
1:10 What is a double drop
2:20 System overviews
3:28 Liquid reservoir
7:27 Drop solenoid
10:31 Drop zone
14:36 System controller
16:35 Camera and flashes
21:21 Conclusion
Thanks! I will do this myself for others next time!
Fantastic tutorial . Thanks bro
so mister ElectroBoom, this man will be ur rival
Rival?!?!? I wish! :)
yeah good luck mr Kazemir
A very well explained video,thanks for sharing.
Glad you liked it!
So much engineering that s awesome!
Thanks! A lot of work, but enjoyable, and I am happy with the resulting images I get!
@@SteveKazemir I am curious. How much time did it take to do it entirely from the concept to the finished "product"
@@antoninmignot3723 Took me about 2 years...but this doesn't really reflect the actual time put into it as I only worked on it in my spare time (day job and all). You can be up and running with a purchased system in an afternoon. The time for me was in designing and building the circuit board, and sourcing all the bits and pieces. I would suspect, building from scratch and ordering parts etc...you could be up and running in a month or two.
Thank you for a very interesting video, I will be trying to construct a system of my own in the near future.
Excellent. Let me know if I can help, or if you have any questions. Would love to hear about your system and see results. Good luck!
@@SteveKazemir Finally getting there, due to my health I purchased a ready made solution, but I am having great fun. Is there a way I can show you some of my results.
Thank you, very informative & easy to follow... Are you saying the depth of the container has little to do with jet height?
Indeed...other than extremely shallow water, I found the depth of the container had little or nothing to do with Jet height. Likewise, I was surprised to see that the height that I drop from had little effect too, once you get passed a certain height. What really seemed to help, was reducing the surface tension of the water, with a bit of soap (not too much). But then you need to deal with bubbles forming in the dish!
Nice setup, great video. I shot a sub to Patreon. In the process of gathering parts to start a setup for myself. I dabbled years ago, but that was a pinhole in a bag of water and me trying to fire the shutter on time with a remote. Looking to take it to the next level.
Fantastic! Thank you so much for your support! I too tried the manual drip and click...you can get some good results, but I found you need to take a LOT of images, and get lucky to get a good one. Good luck with the next level, and let me know if I can help in some way.
Hi Steve, Fantastic video. My wife has recently decided that she wants to do some splash photography and has asked if I could build a setup like yours. Is it possible to get a copy of your schematic, pcb layout and source code?
Paul, I am glad you (and/or your wife) found the video helpful! I would be glad to provide you with help/documentation, and answer any specific questions. This is offered to any of my Patrons. www.patreon.com/KazemirPhoto
Granville Island Brewing...Nice choice. Just across the water from me. I’m in Victoria, BC.
Love Granville Island! Love Victoria too!
I was told that a dishwasher drying agent (like jet dry) lowers the surface tension but don't create the bubbles
Thanks for the tip! I will try it!
That looks fantastic great work . Could you please tell me where and the name of the circuit board I’m thinking of looking into it . Thanking you Michelle
Michelle, I am glad you enjoyed the video. There are three circuit boards in the video, all stacked together. The LCD board on the top, and that is plugged into a Nucleo board. Links to both of these are in the description of the video. The third bottom board is a circuit board I made myself, so you can't really buy it. I would be happy to share the schematic and board layout, but that is only useful if you understand electronics, can build your own board, and write firmware. If that is the case, let me know. If not, then there are many double drop systems commercially available that would probably do a better job than my setup. Good luck! and let me know if I can help some way.
Brilliant video, so much information thank you very much. My electronic skills are not too hot, so I don't think I would be confident to build the "brain" myself. I am tempted by a Pluto (or some other) trigger, but I am not sure if that would interface smoothly with a "homemade" solenoid valve set-up. Any thoughts?
I haven't used nor really researched the Pluto, so I can't say for sure. With electronics, there is always a way to do it, but it may be complicated. I took a quick look at the web page and saw there is a "Pluto Valve" available for $32 (on sale from regular $40, plutotrigger.com/products/pluto-valve). At that price, I think this is the easiest approach. Guaranteed to work with your Pluto trigger! Anyone from Pluto our there? Maybe you would like to send me a system for evaluation? I would love to try it out and make a video of my experience!! :)
@@SteveKazemir You're right :( I just don't know enough to do it and Pluto have not been helpful. What I want to do it multiple drops, but I had better walk before I run I suppose and dust off my old electronics books - I should have paid more attention in class!!
@@suenix1179 As I mentioned, I haven't tried Pluto...but I suspect UA-cam is your friend. I did find this overview of Pluto (ua-cam.com/video/2nVB8D6jfBM/v-deo.html). I would assume the trigger will come with a manual explaining how to use it...but I know manuals vary in quality :(. Good luck on your venture! Let me know if you ever have any specific questions and I will help where I can.
Super! Thank you for this.
You're welcome! Glad you liked it!
I learn more,thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for sharing your experience - just a small point, it is depth of field, not depth of focus. Depth of focus relates to using microscope objectives, which do not have a depth of field. Another point where newcomers get confused is what is macro photography, it is making small objects larger from a 1:1 ratio up to 30 X magnifications, photomicrography is extending the magnifications from low power macro, up to several hundred X (times). Micro photography is making large things smaller than Life-size, such as landscapes, portraits, including micro dot imaging is again reducing say an A4 document to a pinhead size image. Many non scientific imagers often get confused by the correct definitions .
I must have misspoke...I meant Depth of Field...as that is what photographers generally talk about in the acronym DOF. Thank you for the clarification. I did not know there was a technical definition for "Depth of Focus". I found this definition online: "depth of field concerns the image quality of a stationary lens as an object is repositioned, whereas depth of focus concerns a stationary object and a sensor’s ability to maintain focus for different sensor positions, including tilt." So in one case the object is "moving" and in the other, it is the sensor that is moving. Seems to me this really depends on your "frame of reference" :)
@@SteveKazemir In another medical /scientific working lifetime, this sort of imaging was a daily routine -making tiny objects bigger, and the terminology was one of the first things I learnt when starting my university courses in this speialist field. Funny what sticks in the mind sometimes. Anyway, enjoyed your presentation and looking forward to my Pluto Trigger experience at age 82+. Keep up the good work.
Soo cool! Thank you for the science!
Glad you liked it!
I heard using some of the green soap not colour but green environment etc.. works better with suds
Thanks for the info. The soap I used was Nature Clean...Environmentally safe, "green" etc. But I am sure there may be better stuff out there. I would be interested in hearing a specific brand/name if you have it. Any soap that is less "bubbly" would be better. I heard that the bubbles are not necessary for cleaning, but are actually added to make us humans think it is cleaning better. I could use soap without any bubbles....that would be the best!
Great video, I learned a lot!
Thanks!
To get rid of the foam and soap bubbles, either add a very small amount of a siloxane based defoamer, or pup then all using flame of a propane hand torch.
Great suggestions! I haven't heard of the siloxane before, nor had I thought of a propane hand torch. Thanks!!
@@SteveKazemir Glad it is helpful... I came across the use of a torch when I was once getting lots of foam after pouring a resin mixture in its mold, the torch was a life saver! In terms of defaoming additives, usually they are either oil based or siloxane based. The oil based ones are weaker in breaking foams and therefore you'd need more to use, which could then lead to solubility issues... The siloxane based ones are super effective at very low doses and therefore don't cause solubility issues at their effective use doses.
@@H2O2FA Now I just need to go buy a torch and try and find some siloxane based defoamer! Torch should be easy, but is the defoamer easy to find? I haven't searched yet. If I find some online, I will post it here for others.
@@SteveKazemir Try torch and see if you like it, Ir will work but you have to use it after every run. The defoamer option would be more automatic per se, Evonic manufactures a wide variety of defoamer under the brand name Tego. Best for this application could be Tego Antifoam 4-88 (www.polymer-dispersions.com/product/polymer-dispersions/en/products/product-search/brand/pages/product-details.aspx?xd_co_f=OTBlYmY2NDgtZGJkZi00YzFjLWI1NWEtYjRlN2E3NGMwNTNh&productId=70192#) you can request for a free sample from their website, which should last a very long time since extremely low concentration of it will deliver the defaming performance!
@@H2O2FA Thank you! You are my hero!
Hi neckless Steve...!
Cool content...😍👍🏼
Thanks!
how did you actually built it? i too wanna build one for me
They key items are in the video...build away! If you become a Patron, I would be glad to assist with any specific questions you may have as you build. (www.patreon.com/KazemirPhoto)
Instead of moving tve nozzle up, you could move the reservoir up (longer tubing) to increase the pressure
Very good observation...I should have included this in the video! I did try this previously with limited success, but I think at the time I was limited by the ceiling of my garage! (Didn't want to drill holes in the ceiling to get it higher :) )
Pretty cool
Thanks!!
Hey, this is pretty good!
Thanks!
what is the life span for continuous water drop running 24/7? want to make a water drop clock.
Good question...unfortunately, I have no idea! Only use this system for short periods of time. Good luck with your project. I would love to see the results when you are done!
I you moved the plain backgrounds further back then they would not get splashed so much.
Good point, and you are absolutely right. However, this also means you would need more space, and a bigger background. I could probably give myself more space, and I am sure I could move my foam boards back further. However, the foam boards are only so big, so I would hit a limit. Thanks!
We are at yo back
Thanks for the support!
Good taste in beer!
You got that right! :)
I use a drinking straw to blow the bubbles out of the way.
Good idea. I may try that, however, I suspect it may only move the bubbles around, and not actually pop them.
@@SteveKazemir Once you have blown them to the side of the container and out of frame they will stay there.
great video! ( it was a bit uncomfortable to watch with the weird face sculpture thing)
Hmmm...not sure what you are talking about. ;)
#MehdiRaid!
SpashArt sells a complete system for about $230 that works like a champ.
There are several suppliers of these types of systems, thanks for letting us know about this one. Do you have a link? I searched and only found one for $399 (Cognisys). Would be great if the company would lend me one to try/review! :) I am cheap...and I like projects, so built my own. Thanks for watching!
Hi I have send a message on your FB.
Who’s better:
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