Going to be interesting to see how your bent / fescue lawn does over the winter period. Seen a shift with a few UA-camrs this year pushing this type of lawn. I can't help but think it's all marketing ... we shall see come spring
Do you have problem with drainage on your upper lawn? I remember you’ve only put a french drain at the raised planters and patio, and a few through the bottom lawn.
It’s not great at the top. That’s the one thing I wish I’d have done with the initial renovation, putting a drain in. But hoping to combat it to an extent this year with hollow tining 🤞
The higher grass blade coupled with the added moisture that winter brings, doesn't that trap the moisture in the lower depth of the lawn and promotes disease?
Not necessarily. With my lawn being quite shady, if I leave the lawn too short, it’ll result in more die back. The length you leave it will be dependent on loads of stuff - type of soil, grass species, amount of sunlight, etc
Careful with scarifying the Rye this period of time. September & oktober is Poa's peak germination time, it has been creating seeds all year and weather conditions allow for good germination.
@@nijasan5630 Well there are multiple things at play. If you have poa in your lawn at any point in time, my policy is to just always get rid of it as soon as you are able to identify it. The longer it is in there, the bigger it grows, creates seeds and spreads in its direct suroundings (your lawn). If your lawn is relatively free of poa (no big areas), and you pick them all out whenever you see, then for autumn I would recommend a scalp and overseed, possible hollow tine aerate. But not scarify because it opens up the whole sward. Poa can germinate, and also Poa grows actively in cold temps, it usually is able to grow in temps lower than your own lawn. So then the next advice is to keep an eye on the lawn during winter, basically whole year round. If right now you have areas of poa, I would say get them all out by shovel or something. Dont scarify, as you will spread all the seeds. If you want to scarify and poa is indeed always an ongoing issue, scarify in early spring, maybe march or april depending on the temperatures. Overseed to fill in as soon as possible. But this only if you keep an eye on it during winter. In winter, poa will not create new seed heads. But if they were there already, they will continue to develop & drop. Resulting in seeds ready to germinate in spring as well. But if you kept removing it untill spring, then there has been a period where no new poa seeds have been created. Some info: Poa can create seedheads in temps ~ higher than 9 c. Poa can germinate in temps higher than 8 c. Poa can Grow in temps higher than 3c !
If at any point of time you have bare patches, especially from autumn going forward until spring, you can also overseed. Just to compete with the poa seed. For Rye lawns you have specialised mixes for this, Barenbrug SOS for example. They provide examples of overseeding in november and january.
I'm not sure on the height of cut that i'll keep my fescue / bent. anything over 20mm always ends up getting diseased during warm nights. i'm at 16.5 mm right now after spraying fungicide and verticutting in crossing directions. I may go up to 18mm. Golf courses only add 2mm in winter. If it's dense then going beyond 20mm won't expose more grass blade to sun light but instead will result in longer stems which creates issues when lowering the height of cut again.
It’s all trial and error with this stuff. First time having a bent/fescue lawn so it’s now just about figuring out what’s best for the space. It will take a few years to really get a good grip on what will be best to be honest, but it will be worth it in the long run!
Another great video mate, get that shrub ripped out on the front lawn! It’s begging to be an open space👍🏻
🤣 I almost got rid of it this summer, but thought against it in the end! Love/hate relationship with it!
Excellent & informative 👍
Going to be interesting to see how your bent / fescue lawn does over the winter period. Seen a shift with a few UA-camrs this year pushing this type of lawn. I can't help but think it's all marketing ... we shall see come spring
Not marketing on my end 👍🏻
Do you have problem with drainage on your upper lawn? I remember you’ve only put a french drain at the raised planters and patio, and a few through the bottom lawn.
It’s not great at the top. That’s the one thing I wish I’d have done with the initial renovation, putting a drain in. But hoping to combat it to an extent this year with hollow tining 🤞
The higher grass blade coupled with the added moisture that winter brings, doesn't that trap the moisture in the lower depth of the lawn and promotes disease?
Not necessarily. With my lawn being quite shady, if I leave the lawn too short, it’ll result in more die back. The length you leave it will be dependent on loads of stuff - type of soil, grass species, amount of sunlight, etc
Careful with scarifying the Rye this period of time. September & oktober is Poa's peak germination time, it has been creating seeds all year and weather conditions allow for good germination.
When would you say is a good time? POA been a nightmare this year. Any advice appreciated.
@@nijasan5630totally agree. Went on holiday and came back to a lawn full of it
@@nijasan5630 Well there are multiple things at play. If you have poa in your lawn at any point in time, my policy is to just always get rid of it as soon as you are able to identify it. The longer it is in there, the bigger it grows, creates seeds and spreads in its direct suroundings (your lawn). If your lawn is relatively free of poa (no big areas), and you pick them all out whenever you see, then for autumn I would recommend a scalp and overseed, possible hollow tine aerate. But not scarify because it opens up the whole sward. Poa can germinate, and also Poa grows actively in cold temps, it usually is able to grow in temps lower than your own lawn. So then the next advice is to keep an eye on the lawn during winter, basically whole year round.
If right now you have areas of poa, I would say get them all out by shovel or something. Dont scarify, as you will spread all the seeds.
If you want to scarify and poa is indeed always an ongoing issue, scarify in early spring, maybe march or april depending on the temperatures. Overseed to fill in as soon as possible.
But this only if you keep an eye on it during winter. In winter, poa will not create new seed heads. But if they were there already, they will continue to develop & drop. Resulting in seeds ready to germinate in spring as well. But if you kept removing it untill spring, then there has been a period where no new poa seeds have been created.
Some info: Poa can create seedheads in temps ~ higher than 9 c. Poa can germinate in temps higher than 8 c. Poa can Grow in temps higher than 3c !
If at any point of time you have bare patches, especially from autumn going forward until spring, you can also overseed. Just to compete with the poa seed. For Rye lawns you have specialised mixes for this, Barenbrug SOS for example. They provide examples of overseeding in november and january.
@@Arietjegreat advice. Thank you.
😀😀😀😀😀
Hi, what liquid iron do you use on your lawn?
I use one I got from A1 last year, but not sure they still sell it. Lots out there though
I'm not sure on the height of cut that i'll keep my fescue / bent. anything over 20mm always ends up getting diseased during warm nights. i'm at 16.5 mm right now after spraying fungicide and verticutting in crossing directions. I may go up to 18mm. Golf courses only add 2mm in winter. If it's dense then going beyond 20mm won't expose more grass blade to sun light but instead will result in longer stems which creates issues when lowering the height of cut again.
It’s all trial and error with this stuff. First time having a bent/fescue lawn so it’s now just about figuring out what’s best for the space. It will take a few years to really get a good grip on what will be best to be honest, but it will be worth it in the long run!
How comes you haven't verticut the bent fescue lawn?
It’s not needed it. The seeded space definitely doesn’t need it. The turfed area just about does now though.
30 mm is not that high for Rye, a normal rotary cut lawn can be 4.5 cm or even higher.
Loads of variables will go into it, just whatever is best for each lawn 👍🏻
Top video, was thinking about exactly this while listening to a load of thunder in cloudy Warrington..this video has definitely confirmed it👍🍁🕰️