Great video and a relief to see how simple this is compared to the whole rack replacement I feared I needed. Thanks for making this and taking the time to share
Thankyou for making this video, it's given me confidence to tackle the job myself! Just to note, these parts are different on the E46 M3 and I believe only supplied by Lemforder.
2000 BMW 323i. 80,000 miles. Original owner. Took car into local BMW “stealer” about 7 months ago for four wheel alignment. Same dealer I purchased it from. They did a good job at a relatively fair price (considering IT IS BMW). Now with only about 500 miles since then it pulls slightly to the left. After checking the obvious things (tire pressures, dragging brake, etc.) I made an appointment to have it aligned along with my third airbag recall. After three days they said car is ready. I took an Uber to them and when I arrived was told alignment couldn’t be done as tie rods were heated and frozen. I sad “your shop did the alignment 500 miles ago and no mention of any difficulty”. They hemmed and hawed and I asked for the price for inner and outer tie rods to be replaced plus fresh alignment. $800 plus cost of alignment. But they would give me a “ courtesy discount of 10%”. Crazy! If I didn’t love BMWs so much ( and my non-turbo / non-supercharged 2010 R56 N12 Mini) I would never buy one again. But I don’t think the.raping is only at BMW dealers. Probably most. After I returned home just for s & g’s I came across your video and immediately ordered the parts and a couple of special tools. I have my Mini and a 20 year old Ford F-150 so I can take my time and replace both l/r inner and outer tie rods for about $100 in parts and tools. I will find an independent shop with the proper tools for the post installation alignment. Thank you so much for making this video. Have a safe and healthy Holiday and New Year.
Thank you for sharing your story. I had twice bad experience with BMW service. After that, I come to BMW parts only if I need antifreeze or some bolts. Now I work in a small car shop, and I can do alignment by myself. I can tell you that alignment is very sensitive and if your inner or outer tie rod ends is loose it's not possible to finish alignment correctly.
Very good video I have a 2005 BMW 330xi I have a problem that when I install the intec and I already took it off and put the original on it loses strength. and I feel the car slow
Do you mean air intake? If yes, make sure all the clamps is tight and everything is back in place correctly. It may have air sucking somewhere. Maybe air intake tube has crack.
@@mikes.garage hey thank you very much for your help the intake was broken a small hose that comes out of there that's why it was the slow car thank you and very good videos very well explained
Good video. I'm not understanding how an alignment is performed. Does the technician have to remove the ball joint from the knuckle if an adjustment is needed?
5:00 My issue is, the piece on the left will not come apart from the piece on the right. I already loosened the nut, but the left piece will not turn AT ALL.
That's why I replaced inner and outer tie rod ends together at the same time. It maybe can get loose if you will heat it up with torch. But no warranty at all.
Great video but you definitely don't need the ball joint separator. Just use a sledgehammer and hit it until it just drops down or cut it off with the angle grinder
Reason being is that you have far more use of a good sledgehammer or angle grinder then a ball joint separator if you need to make this purchasing choice. No need to collect tools which you are going to use once every 100 years
What’s up my bro. I’ve gotta ask because I’m always very hesitant to jack the car without using the 4 points provided, so where did you put that jack in the center of the car? At what point did you use?
Question, a friend of mine just replaced his rack & pinion himself and when he brought his 2003 BMW 325i to us for an alignment we noticed his tie rods ran out of thread adjustment. We did have to recenter the rack to the steering wheel but still have tie rod adjustment issues. One mechanic is saying that it might be wrong rack & pinion. I'm thinking it might be the wrong outer or inner tie rods. Any ideas?
This is could be possible. He may be bought tie rod ends from e36 they have a different lengths. Also maybe he bought outer tie rod ends from all wheel drive model. But this is definitely something wrong with the parts.
Mike's Garage Ah ok, thanks. I'll let him know. We're just hoping it's not the rack and pinion that has to be replaced again. Maybe the tie rods are interchangeable. Poor guy had to replace his rack on the street in not the best neighborhood.
Im having this same exact problem with my e46 when you full lock the steering the wheels turn way too much and it just locks up the tie rods have also run out of thread so im not really sure...going to change the tie rod and ends and see if that helps
@Yxzxy Need to check all the parts which was replaced. Take the part numbers from those part and Google for what car they are. You maybe bought some parts for e36. This is usually happens because e36 and e46 was made at the same years at 1998-1999 they have different parts but they're looks similar. Check your invoices.
Replaced both tie rods and control arms on my e46. Post align, the steering has a minor but annoying dead spot at center. We inspected the components which again, are all new, and noticed it's possible the roll/turn forward the new left side tie rod, but the right is fixed. Is this correct, or could the new rod be bad?
I can't even imagine, how can it be. If you bought parts for your car and installed right side on right side and left on left, it should not touch anything.
Do the ZHP models come with a bigger steering rack? These kits’ boots don’t fit on my rack. Clam(p)s are too small too so it’s not just a rubber issue.
@@mikes.garage 2005 E46 330i ZHP. The new boots fit inside the ones I took off the car. Definitely not a match. The boot part I removed has 7820040744 on it. Can only find reference to it in Russia... not where I live. My Steering Rack is 6757651.
I had great impact gun at work it was MAXIMUM 20V Max Brushless Hi-Torque Impact Wrench. On the video Dewalt cordless drill which I would never buy again.
If only "technicians" (and I use that word loosely) would reassemble stuff like this with a little copper grease then owners of these cars would not have problems down the line with seized nuts and track rod ends.
Great video and a relief to see how simple this is compared to the whole rack replacement I feared I needed. Thanks for making this and taking the time to share
Thank you for watching!
This is soothing to watch good choice of music 😆 I don’t even need mine replaced but I watched the whole thing anyway 😂
Thank you! I hope you enjoyed it 😁
At 3:27 Before you remove the tie rod, BMW says to turn the wheel back the other way so that as little as necessary steering rack is poking out...
Thankyou for making this video, it's given me confidence to tackle the job myself! Just to note, these parts are different on the E46 M3 and I believe only supplied by Lemforder.
Thank you for watching! Yes, for M3 parts is different.
“Other side was fine.” Well yeah, once it saw what you did to the first side, it’s like “Ah hell naw! Ima cooperate then”😂
2000 BMW 323i. 80,000 miles. Original owner. Took car into local BMW “stealer” about 7 months ago for four wheel alignment. Same dealer I purchased it from. They did a good job at a relatively fair price (considering IT IS BMW). Now with only about 500 miles since then it pulls slightly to the left. After checking the obvious things (tire pressures, dragging brake, etc.) I made an appointment to have it aligned along with my third airbag recall. After three days they said car is ready. I took an Uber to them and when I arrived was told alignment couldn’t be done as tie rods were heated and frozen. I sad “your shop did the alignment 500 miles ago and no mention of any difficulty”. They hemmed and hawed and I asked for the price for inner and outer tie rods to be replaced plus fresh alignment. $800 plus cost of alignment. But they would give me a “ courtesy discount of 10%”. Crazy! If I didn’t love BMWs so much ( and my non-turbo / non-supercharged 2010 R56 N12 Mini) I would never buy one again. But I don’t think the.raping is only at BMW dealers. Probably most. After I returned home just for s & g’s I came across your video and immediately ordered the parts and a couple of special tools. I have my Mini and a 20 year old Ford F-150 so I can take my time and replace both l/r inner and outer tie rods for about $100 in parts and tools. I will find an independent shop with the proper tools for the post installation alignment. Thank you so much for making this video. Have a safe and healthy Holiday and New Year.
Thank you for sharing your story. I had twice bad experience with BMW service. After that, I come to BMW parts only if I need antifreeze or some bolts. Now I work in a small car shop, and I can do alignment by myself. I can tell you that alignment is very sensitive and if your inner or outer tie rod ends is loose it's not possible to finish alignment correctly.
Very good video I have a 2005 BMW 330xi I have a problem that when I install the intec and I already took it off and put the original on it loses strength. and I feel the car slow
Do you mean air intake? If yes, make sure all the clamps is tight and everything is back in place correctly. It may have air sucking somewhere. Maybe air intake tube has crack.
@@mikes.garage hey thank you very much for your help the intake was broken a small hose that comes out of there that's why it was the slow car thank you and very good videos very well explained
I'm glad you found the problem 😉
Very professional tutorial thank you
Thank you for watching 😊
Good video. I'm not understanding how an alignment is performed. Does the technician have to remove the ball joint from the knuckle if an adjustment is needed?
Thank You! No, you don't need to remove the ball joint. It has an adjusting nut.
Great video very informative I’ll be doing this one mine soon.
5:00 My issue is, the piece on the left will not come apart from the piece on the right. I already loosened the nut, but the left piece will not turn AT ALL.
That's why I replaced inner and outer tie rod ends together at the same time. It maybe can get loose if you will heat it up with torch. But no warranty at all.
Great video but you definitely don't need the ball joint separator. Just use a sledgehammer and hit it until it just drops down or cut it off with the angle grinder
Thank you for watching!
Reason being is that you have far more use of a good sledgehammer or angle grinder then a ball joint separator if you need to make this purchasing choice. No need to collect tools which you are going to use once every 100 years
@@pianothatilove In Canada you can use all the special tools for free if you return them in 3 days.
Now this was a well done video and job.
Thank you!
Thanks. Good to see before I do it. Liked the simple just show me approach. Well done. Cheers from Down Under.
Thank you for watching! 😉
What’s up my bro. I’ve gotta ask because I’m always very hesitant to jack the car without using the 4 points provided, so where did you put that jack in the center of the car? At what point did you use?
I use subframe center point to jack up car and put jack stands under subframe by control arm bushings.
Question, a friend of mine just replaced his rack & pinion himself and when he brought his 2003 BMW 325i to us for an alignment we noticed his tie rods ran out of thread adjustment. We did have to recenter the rack to the steering wheel but still have tie rod adjustment issues. One mechanic is saying that it might be wrong rack & pinion. I'm thinking it might be the wrong outer or inner tie rods. Any ideas?
This is could be possible. He may be bought tie rod ends from e36 they have a different lengths. Also maybe he bought outer tie rod ends from all wheel drive model. But this is definitely something wrong with the parts.
Mike's Garage Ah ok, thanks. I'll let him know. We're just hoping it's not the rack and pinion that has to be replaced again. Maybe the tie rods are interchangeable. Poor guy had to replace his rack on the street in not the best neighborhood.
@@blueblade455 Good luck to him )
Im having this same exact problem with my e46 when you full lock the steering the wheels turn way too much and it just locks up the tie rods have also run out of thread so im not really sure...going to change the tie rod and ends and see if that helps
@Yxzxy Need to check all the parts which was replaced. Take the part numbers from those part and Google for what car they are. You maybe bought some parts for e36. This is usually happens because e36 and e46 was made at the same years at 1998-1999 they have different parts but they're looks similar. Check your invoices.
Replaced both tie rods and control arms on my e46. Post align, the steering has a minor but annoying dead spot at center. We inspected the components which again, are all new, and noticed it's possible the roll/turn forward the new left side tie rod, but the right is fixed. Is this correct, or could the new rod be bad?
Are you sure the top bolts on control arms are tight? Try to re-tight them as this could be your issue.
Also this is could be steering rack it self or strut bushings.
Thank you, will look into your comments.
can you add the link to all the parts
www.amazon.ca/dp/B07LGLGB7M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Gf4FDb8D2879G
Also you can check Rockauto
I just changed my e36 tierods and they now touch the rims of my wheel and grind any solutions to fix it? I got the correct size and everything.
I can't even imagine, how can it be. If you bought parts for your car and installed right side on right side and left on left, it should not touch anything.
Do the ZHP models come with a bigger steering rack? These kits’ boots don’t fit on my rack. Clam(p)s are too small too so it’s not just a rubber issue.
Do you have e46? E36 has different parts.
@@mikes.garage 2005 E46 330i ZHP. The new boots fit inside the ones I took off the car. Definitely not a match. The boot part I removed has 7820040744 on it. Can only find reference to it in Russia... not where I live. My Steering Rack is 6757651.
@@frankryan8100 check out Ebay or Amazon.
Just bought a 325xi for $1700 And I think it needs new tie rods. The boots on both inners are split in half. Not sure how long it’s been that way
$1700 this is good price. Replace both sides at the same time for best result.
How big of adjustable wrench I need for inner tie rod bolt? I see ppl use 12 /but is it 10 enough?
Just about 1 1/2 inch, one inch is not enough.
Thanks for the video
Thank you for watching! 😊
I know this video is old but what brand impact gun do you use?
I had great impact gun at work it was MAXIMUM 20V Max Brushless Hi-Torque Impact Wrench. On the video Dewalt cordless drill which I would never buy again.
Is this procedure the same for a E36?
Almost exactly the same.
@@mikes.garage Whats the difference?
Mike's Garage any differences?
@@baitfool5906 Could be different size of tool's and looks a little different.
@@djc2874 Could be different size of tool's and looks a little different.
The ranch didn’t work on my car
Really fucking funny in here trying to replace my outer tie rod.. deffo not rusted at all...
If only "technicians" (and I use that word loosely) would reassemble stuff like this with a little copper grease then owners of these cars would not have problems down the line with seized nuts and track rod ends.
This is make sense 😉
I like to hear what he has to say and not listen to music.