How to Build a Gate - Homax Easy Gate Kit
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- Building a gate can be simple with a system like the Homax Esay Gate Kit and with the instruction of this video you will have yourself a strong long lasting gate.
What we used:
-Homax Easy Gate: amzn.to/3iIhXDt
-2x4 Pressure treated wood
-72” Cedar dogeared pickets
-2” Ring shank galvanized nails
For more instruction on how to remove posts watch: • How to Remove a Fence ...
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Next time hang the gate frame on place first and just add the wood pickets once installed.
That was good advice including trimming the board so it will fit the hardware, big thumbs up.😂 I also subscribed liked and maybe I’ll share with my boss, but this kit is so simple he probably doesn’t need to look at it. Ether way I’ll be the one using the kit, lol 😂 take care.😊
Its always easier to build the fence hanging, then when your done you can just cut the 2 x4 with a sawzall, and you dont have to hold the fence up when trying to screw it in the post just a tip !!
very true! thanks for watchin!
Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge sir
no problem thanks for watchinn👍
Looks good. I'd have probably used Adjust-A-Gate for this job, since that post was right there and the screw-in lag bolts will prevent sag a lot longer than hinges, but.. no doubt, you're a carpenter and you'll fix er' up if that becomes an issue. Hoping for all the best for you and J-Lo.
thank you! il check out out the adjust a gate!
I would mount the frame on the post first (without helper 😄) then nail the boards after frame completely set
I'd work with his helper anytime.
not sure i would add a horizontal support because it would just be more weight, which hinges don't need, but I do appreciate the time you took to make this video for someone who is considering using this product. p.s. love the "coffee, coffee, coffee" T shirt. If I gave blood, it would be 50% coffee. p.p.s. I gave you a subscribe for supporting veterans. I have a son who's in the Navy on a submarine.
I sorry i overlooked your response but thanks for watching and subscribing!! 🇺🇸👍
Great Video.straight to the point.
Lee Townson Thanks for watching , i hope your gate turns out great! I would also recommend picking out Dry lumber so that you don’t have warping issues.
WorknDirt On this note about dry wood, what are your thoughts about using non - pressure treated pine for the gate if I’m planning on painting/using a heavy duty deck stain when I’m finished? I’m in the desert by the way, so moisture isn’t much of a problem. We deal with sun damage more than moisture damage.
@@unionrunner1 You nailed it, deck paint/stain on non-pressure treated wood is a great option.
Great video !!!!! Thank you !!
Milton Gradillas hope it helped ya, thanks for watchin!
Why did you attach hinges on the outside of the fence instead of the inside of the post like you would when hanging a door?
Rick Hammell ,Very good question Rick, you can definitely mount to the inside of the post but i chose not to because generally, your wider heavy gates will tend to pull the hinge plate away from the post putting tension on the screws. (hinge plates start to bend over a long period of time especially cheap ones)
If you mount on the front side, the screws will be under a shear load rather than in direct tension because the hinge or load is pulling at 90degrees. So it will last longer. The trade off is , you the aesthetics of an exposed hinge and the lack of security because people now have access to the screws but i’ve never known someone to unscrew a gate to break into a house... At the end of the day its tomato tomata . thanks for watching
@@WorknDirt Great answer. I had the same question. Question: If I didn't want to see the hinge, could I use longer (3 inch) decking/galvanized screws? It seems like 4 screws per hinge would over engineer the shear load. (I'm just looking for a nice clean front of my fence)
@@BFSilenceDogood yes longer would be better and try to make the gate as light as possible👍
Also I found that mounting to the outside allows the gate to open all the way. When you mount on the inside the pickets will bind at the half way point, just a choice
What are you going to do when you have to replace the siding?
probably uninstall and reinstall the post.. thanks for watchin!
Awesome video thanku. I just bought that exact stuff to redo my gate. I have absolutely no clue what I'm doing so this will be funny. What tyoe of nails did you say to use? I know i didn't get t he kind you said. I also bought circular saw ive never used😮.
Its great to try new things!! I used ring shank nails but you can use some exterior rated screws👍
@@WorknDirt hi thanku. Quick reply awesome 👌 ill get those. I really appreciate it. This is definitely a new thing lol. My girls said ma u better be careful. I got to try i don't have the money to pay ppl . New subscriber too
how much of a gap did you leave on the hinge side and on the latch side?
I installed my fence board flush with the edge of the wood frame. Thanks for watch'n
Can you attach the pickets after installing the frame to the fence?
MrHornm12 hi yes you can, but i would suggest putting a support block on the ground on the opposite end of the hinges so that you dont risk installing the pickets on the gate while it could possibly be slightly out of square” . the brackets are sturdy but its extra insurance.. thanks for watchin!
Here is my experience with the kit.
The kit is four brackets. Two brackets have hinges on one side to attack to a four by four.
You will need your own screws for the hinge side to attach it to the four by four. They are not included
.
You will have just enough screws and not one extra.
The screws are of the star drive variety. They looked cheap but seemed to be very strong.
There is a really crappy drill bit included to pre-drill for the screws so you don't bust the wood.
The drill bit is garbage and it is not hardened and soon it was wobbly. You can actually bend it.
I finished the project by cutting the head off of a large galvanized finish nail. I burned holes instead of
drilling them out.
You will need a drill and a driver for the screws. I had to use a hand driver and I broke it and had to do it by hand. It was a CHORE.
You will need some clamps to hold it together while building it.
It is NOT a 20 minute job, not for this 58 year old.
Notice I had attached one bracket with
the hinge on it and then I noticed the brace weld had not even been welded, so I had to return the bracket to Lowes. They were kind enough to replace the bracket but where is quality control? And I think this product said it was made in Pennsylvania.
I think I am going to put a cross brace in the middle of the gate because the total distance of the frame is 59 inches. Those cheap Lowes fence slats need support in the middle. ((((DON'T buy them at LOWES)))) (((the slats are thicker at Home Depot)))
On top of that I had to return a dime store $44 "Chicago brand "circular saw that I bought at Harbor Freight. The lever that you use to raise and lower the deck on the saw was useless. It was BRAND NEW. I used it to make just a couple of cuts. I got a REFUND and I have a new appreciation for my very heavy Skillsaw brand circular saw. It's heavy and huge, but it isn't total garbage.
These details you mentioned will definitely help other viewers out so thank you. sorry to hear about the troubles but im curious how you “burned the holes” out for the screws? im also curious what saw you used from Harbor freight as they are starting to carry better models/brands. thanks for watchin!
@@WorknDirt Maybe it's a trick that some people don't know, but once the cheap drill bit was all twisted up I had to find a new bit. I didn't have a bit that small but I had some large galvanized finish nails about three inches long. I merely cut the head off of the nail and put it in the drill bit. When I say I burned the holes, I mean the nail doesn't have an edge. The friction of the nail spinning fast basically burns a hole. You have to force it it with drill at high speed, but I was taught to do that at a young age in my dad's sign shop. Sometimes you have to improvise. The circular saw that I am talking about is the Chicago model, the $44 dollar model. It is sort of an off red/pastel rose color. It has a laser thing on it. You have to put batteries in it. I wanted a lighter saw, something a little more modern. I got my money back. Even the screw hole where you put the batteries in was already stripped out. The screw simply goes into plastic, no metal thread insert, nothing. I looked at the next model up which is $59 and the base would lock down well but I decided not to try another Harbor Freight circular saw. I bought a cheap Chicago grinder for about $16 and that was a good deal of course. I figured that if I am going to put out over $44 for a circular saw then I would invest in a better brand. I was pretty pissed. I was all covered in saw dust from cutting the overlap of the fence panel at the gate opening. I merely trimmed the 1/2 fence panel and then I realized that saw was junk and that the base wouldn't lock. I had sawdust all in my hair, all over my face, down my back. I still had sawdust all over me when I was in the store. And I was dirty when I had to return the bracket for the Homax Gate Kit too. I wasn't a happy craftsman yesterday. I got the frame together though and today I will try to put the gate in.
Never seen a hinge installed on the outside.
How much of a gap on the hinge and latch side?
I installed my fence board flush with the edge of the wood frame. Thanks for watch'n
Great video! What kind of fasteners did you use to secure the fence board to the 2x4?
howdy partner! i used 2" galve ring shank nails👍 but ext screws can work too just slower.. thanks for watchin
$35 bucks for that? In my state they cost $48 bucks! Great video.
meatmaster 86 thanks, im glad it was helpful, thanks for watchin!!!!
Awe what state are you in? I would say $48 is still worth it. Check out Amazon, looks like it is $37 right now.
$34 in Saint Petersburg Florida....
Lowes
$28 bucks @ home depot now
Just paid $34 for mine today at Home Depot.
Did u build that old fence with the 2x4’s laying down on top of the posts??? 🤦♂️
No, i did not build that old fence, it was already there. I'm a lic contractor and engineer and know of better building practices. thanks for watching!
why not put the hing on the inside like a door
By placing the hinge parallel with the gate (on the post) puts the lag bolts perpendicular to the force and makes it a little stronger (if they're inline with the force, they have a tendancy to work themselves loose over a long period of time). It also keeps the "hinge plate" inline with the force because hinge plates can bend if someone were to jump on the gate (if mounted on the inside).. Thanks for watchin!
@@WorknDirt I just did one this way but it was because I didn’t have second hands I guess I can see probably better to leave the end pickets off so you can cover the hinges
Hinges inside. Not visible.
that is a nice position as well but over time the face of the hinge can pull away.
On the Woodprix website, you buy access to thousands of projects once.
I don't appreciate the backwards flag on his shirt... the American flag should always be point forward, because in America we never retreat or back down.
yea i agree! I wasnt aware until someone told me about it. new shirts will be different! thanks!
Garbage, I just bought this kit from lowes 1 week ago for a 6 ft tall, 40 inch wide gate, two things occured, rusting and it started to sag!!!! waste of time and money.The hinges are poorly designed and very thin
Sorry to hear, to fix the sag i would suggest lifting the gate up on the sagging end and then nail or screw on a diagonal board over the brackets, like a 1x6 but use fastners with a big head or lag screws with washers to offer more clamping force.
I'm Sorry, WHY do we need rock music in an instructional video. I would rather listen to you do a step by step commentary
note taken , thanks for the feedback, we are still working on our editing skills, but if have a question il do my best to answer it👍 thanks for watching