Honda CRV VTEC Pressure Sensor Delete P1259
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- Опубліковано 22 лют 2021
- After trying everything we continued having a P1259 engine code on this 2003 honda CRV. The car would not make it around the block twice without going into limp mode. The engine would cut out at 3000rpm. We reached the point the car was going to end up at the scrap yard. I was able to find some information on bypassing this in the older hondas, but nothing for anything newer or similar to this vehicle. I am not a mechanic and I didnt even stay at a holiday inn last night so take anything in this video with a grain of salt. Just putting this out there in the Hope's it will save someone some time and money.
I was REALLY hoping to see vid of the CRV running after the fix!
Hi, I just wanted to thank you for this video! I just purchased a 2003 crv 3hrs away from home and could NOT drive on the freeway because of the code. Thankfully I found your video and made it home unscathed. Thanks again!
Glad it was helpful!
Good evening Mr. Dickson, Just taking the opportunity to say, Thank You !!!! Was able to finally get my 2003 Honda Accord LX 2.4 liter engine, running again!! Had tried every possible solution, to no avail. Most of the solutions you yourself had tried. , Was able to follow your very simple steps, on your very instructional video. Once again, thank you!!! Car started right up, without the (Cel) check engine light, & out of Limp Mode!!!
Blessings to you & your loved ones Sir.
There is no doubt this isn’t truly fixing whatever the problem is but serves as a profitable semi permanent band aid. Thank you so much! I’ve been battling this code and new Pressure switches for a year now and may end up resorting to this
Thank you so much for making this video. I was going down the path of replacing parts with no success. I tried your solution and now the 03 crv runs flawlessly. Saved me a bunch of money and aggravation. God bless 🙌🏿
Glad to hear it got you back on the road!
Your the man!! Thank you for saving me the headache I been dealing with for a month now.
Found your video after spending a couple hundred dollars replacing vtec assembly and code continuously coming back... so far so good.. seams to have fixed the issue
Glad you found it helpful!
Thank you! I have been fighting, replacing parts, and searching the internet for over a year now. Your fix took care of it immediately!
So glad to here this kept your car on the road!
Is it still working ok?
@@eighty1977I would like to know this as well I have an 03 CRV all-wheel drive that has been throwing the VTEC system malfunction code for over a year I've replaced every part possible and it still happens I'm literally about to show this video to my mechanic and have them do this exact same thing tired of hunting for needle in a haystack.
@@Brad.W it does work. I did it to my element and it’s still going strong
Had all the same issue's with my 2002 crv. replaced everything according to the code and vtech system. more than frustrating. found this video, showed it to my mechanic friend. he did exactly what this gentleman did and bang!!!! done...
thank you for your video!!!
Awesome! Glad it kept your car on the road!
Thank you. Thank you. Worked great for my 03 CR-V. Was going to junk it but I think it's got a lot of life left now!
Awesome! Glad to hear!
Mr. Dickson I just wanted to Thank You for helping me. I've been dealing with the same problem on my daughter's 03 CRV and have swapped out the VVT Solenoid 4 or 5 times, change the oil and filter numerous times only to have the check engine light come on over and over again, sometimes within 100 miles. Anyway, this solved the issue. No More Problems!!!! Thank You, You ROCK!
So glad this worked for you!
I prayed this solution fix my car for free.
I'm going to try this out tomorrow and give feedback on it.
My crv 2003 have over 265K miles on it. Had vtec issues before but all fixed. Oil 5-20w all the time with original filter. All screens are clean with new oem vtec module also Vtec plugs pigtails are new... but this time the problem persist. Did your bypass and worked like a charm!!! Thanks
Awesome! Glad you will get some more miles out of that thing
I did all the things to my wifes CR-V,vtec solenoid,freash oil and even tried a computer that I'm sure was junk from a shady ebay seller.But then I found this video and I cant thank you enough!Back to a nice driving car again!Check engine light is gone !
Glad to hear it worked for you!
Same garbage on my 2003 crv.
Now You are my hero!! thank you!!!!!!!!!
Thanyou for this video i was going crazy with this. now my 2002 civic its back in the road thanks again.
This worked for my 99 accord. Thank you!!
Thank you so much it works like a charm can finally drive it without that light coming on
Just a follow-up, I just did this job to my 2006 Honda Element EX (same engine as the crv) and works so far. I drove about an hour into the city and it's driving as if its brand new off the dealer lot. Hopefully this will be the end of this saga I've been dealing with for the past 5 years. Thanks to Jeremiah for making this video or else I'd be looking at selling this car today.
That's great! Did I give you the code every time you drove it or just intermittently?
@@jeremiahdickson569 Yes, for me it started about 5 years ago. At first, it was mostly intermittent, but gradually became almost non-stop. I did just about everything you could think of, but after putting in a replacement vtec assembly and a new VTC Solenoid, on top of repeatedly cleaning oil screens and all that, I just stopped trying. The codes for the elements is a P2646 or P2647, I've had both back and forth over the years. At one point it stayed off for close to a year, but right at the end of a very long road trip, boom, came back on and never went away.
@Christopher Williams
Is it still holding up for you?
@@thekalechipsvendetta yep, still going strong
@@The_Frost_Boss I’ve had the same issue for last 5-6 yrs. Cleaned and replaced several vtec solenoids, replaced all of the screens/filters many many times. Running correct oil, multiple engine oil flushes. This would fix the problem for a short while. Then it would be intermittent and progress to all of the time or every other Drive or after 5-30 mins of driving. Def trying this option.
Great work this worked for my 03 crv
Great video! I wish I'd seen it a few hundred of $$$ ago. My car was on it's way to the junk yard unil I saw your video. I also notice that the wires going into the solenoid connector were both Corroded and one wire broke off while I was separating the connector from the solenoid. I replace the connector and add both wires spliced together... ***problem finally fixed***
Glad to hear you're back on the road!
Thank you for the video. Worked for now! Hopefully will last a looooooong time!
The one in the video is still on the road over a year later.
After fighting with three vtech solenoids the past 6 months I finally did this on my 2008 CRV. So far so good. Not sure if it “fixes” whatever the original problem is, but at 300,000 miles I really don’t care. Drives fine so far
Is the vehicle still working as it should after the oil pressure switch bypass?
Dude... Where have you been all my life....? Or the last 6 months. I have been on the struggle bus with the P2646 code and limp mode on my 2006 crv with 225k on it. New Honda parts for everything, cleaned screens, changed connectors etc.... I've now been running 5w-40 and it's seemed to help, But it still comes back. I saw your video today and figured what do I have to lose...? I've only driven it 20 miles so far but no light. Will be driving more soon. Thanks for the video. You should really rename the title and add P2646 code in it. I bet you'd get a ton more traffic. I found your video on a Honda Element forum. Same motor. There is a thread with 500 or so entries on this exact problem. Name it with something like P2646 bypass or something. Good job man. Thanks again.
Glad to hear it was useful!! Thanks for the feedback!
Thank you sir for your video that was very helpful thank you very much
tq man you the best..solve my problem.
Was having this code issue. I replaced the oil filter with an Honda oem, replaced oil pressure switch, replaced v tech solenoid with a dorman from autozone, clean oil and now runs way better.
It worked on mine. Muchas gracias
Awesome!
Does anyone know what the blue or purple connector at the end of the harness plugs into? My accessory drive belt broke and took out a couple of plugs connectors and part of that harness.
So pretty much cap the yellow wire off & connect the blue& black wire to the green ?
Hi thanks for the tip ! Will it work on a 2002 CRV 2.0L (K20 not K24) ?
So is the Blue wire on the Oil pressure switch positive or ground?
I am having this exact problem and I have tested the solenoid and the switch, both work fine, I even cleaned the screen on the front of the block and on the vtec solenoid along with the vtc solenoid but still having the problem after the oil temp gets warm enough. I am coming to the conclusion that oil pressure is either not high enough to engage vtec properly which could be an internal bleeding problem or a blockage problem.
Love this video and i myself am going through this issue... im about to do this but have a couple of questiions... does vtec kick in or its totally disabled?
Still Working. Thanks.
Awesome!
After replacing the VVT, changing the oil multiple times, flushing with Seafoam etc I was ready to dump this car. By soldering the blue wire on the pressure switch harness to the green wire on the solenoid harness, the P2646 code is good and gone!
saved my ep3 for sure 🤙🏽
Does your VTEC still work after doing this?
@@athiam152 yup
Hi jerimiahdickson when you listed previous attempts at fixing the code and you said you “cleaned out the screens” what screens do you refer to? I’m aware of the screen in the gasket to the vtec module, but I am curious if there are any other screens that you are talking about. Thank you
It's been a couple of years since I have messed with this so forgive my memory. There is another pen cap sized screen on the vtec oil control assembly at the end of the cam on the left hand side of the engine. Usually it would give a different code if that is the problem, but it can still constrict the oil flow through the system.
I just found your video. I am looking at doing this today since I have nice weather here in central indiana. My only question is there is a single wire connected to something just below the VTEC solenoid. Can’t seem to get it disconnected, any ideas or guidance. Just don’t want to break anything and can see it very well.
Going from memory it's likely your oil pressure sensor for your dash indicator. I broke it while trying to get it disconnected and had to replace the connector on the end of the wire.
Do you need to ground the oil pressure switch ?
Thanks for the video. Im in the process of trying it out on my 2002 crv. Why would you not just jump the sensor wires? Just curious.
The voltage coming into the vtec module turns on the vtec and the voltage coming back through the other wire to the ecm is the confirmation that the vtec engaged. If you just combined those two wires the vtec would never actually turn on and off. You would only be tricking the ecm but loose vtec functionality.
I'ma try this today, I'll have an up date later
Did it get you back going?
Roughly 2 months later and this CRV is still running fine. I'm glad it didnt end up in the junkyard. Has this worked for anybody else? Any feedback?
How has this impacted acceleration? Does it run just as it did before these codes are thrown?
@@The_Frost_Boss When I added in the jumper, I had already replaced the entire VTEC assembly twice and cleaned all the screens that the oil passes through. We ran some seafoam in the oil to remove deposits and put in fresh oil. The code continued but the VTEC seemed to be functioning normal. This jumper sends the "turn on" voltage back down the "is it on" wire. Since we split the wire the voltage also continued to turn on the unit when the ECM requests it. Your VTEC should work as it was but the ECM would not recognize if it stopped working.
Did you try just using a good oil filter cuz I was having the same issue and I put a good oil filter on it it had 13 holes instead of eight it was an STP oil filter and the code went away and that's on two Acuras
@@jeremiahdickson569 haha, literally the way it should have been designed in the first place, going into limp mode for something stupid like this is actually very dangerous for basically a few extra horses. Booooo Honda boooooo. I’m giving my mechanic one more shot to fix it then I’m doing this trick. Thanks for a very useful video helping so many people.
Did it work? Do yu have another video testing out the car?
Though you did all that should check vts and cleaned it also recheck your vtec solenoid filter cus it probably got clogged
I have this same exact issue . first i had long starts and i changed the crank shaft sensor and it went away, also i have this issue that couldnt go above 3k rpm after running a couple mile then it would start bucking and wouldn't go above 3k rpm.... how has this hold up for you?
It's going on about 5 months now with no repeat issues.
I haven't got the time to this fix yet, but mine would do it when going on longer trips, also its would buck and hesitate to go over the 3k rpm but if i would shut it down and start it goes away for a while
Does the oil pressure sensor light come on after the oil pressure sensor bypass
The oil pressure sensor that turns the dash light on and off is a separate sensor near the vtech, but not part of the vtech assembly. The pressure switch with the dash indicator is unaffected by the bypass.
Try changing your oil filter with an oil filter that has more than eight holes it's got to be a Honda OEM or STP cuz they have 13 holes I was having the same code I swapped the oil filter code went away it was restricting oil flow
I did an oil change with the recommended oil in the manual after a flush with some seafoam. I cant remember which filter was used for that oil change, but I generally use mobile1. Not sure how many holes are in a mobile 1.
I will try this bro , where did you get the Stp filter ?
Will the vehicle still be able to pass smog when repaired like this? Thnx
There is no reason that I know of that it could effect emissions at all. The CRV in the video passed emissions without problems and I don't think the emissions test is performed at an RPM high enough for the vtec to even have a chance to kick in but maybe someone that knows more about that could chime in.
So why doesn’t replacing the solenoid and switch make the code go away? Internal engine damage? One thing I notice is my oil often has air bubbles when I pull the dipstick, I’m not expert but air bubbles can’t create the same hydraulic pressure as oil alone, again, perhaps from internal engine damage (compression, tolerances, etc..). I just want to make sense of it rather then find a non factory loophole.
That is a quest most of us in this comment section went on until eventually getting tired of replacing parts, trying things, and spending money that didn't fix the problem. If you find the answer please come back and let us know. You are correct this isn't a fix its a workaround for the problem born out of frustration.
hows my year later? I just bought used and driving back went into limp..........this code came up. Should i replace vtec solenoid etc before doing this?
The CRV in the video is still running fine after 1 year. I would definitely try all the normal means to fix the vtec before doing this. Jumping this out will not make the vtec work if one of the components is failing, it will just make sure the code doesn't trigger the ecm to start limp mode.
@@jeremiahdickson569 Sweet thanks for reply.
Does this work with F series too? I'm gonna try this on my accord
I don't know about anything other than the CRV we did it on. Maybe someone has tried it and can chime in.
@@jeremiahdickson569 Looks like I'm gonna be the first! I'll let you know how it goes
I have this issue once the car hits 3k in final gear. I switch the ignition off and on while driving and get my vtech back again until I hit 3k in final gear again. Will buck in every gear after this happens. I've replaced all the vtech components.
Will vtec go back to working after this ?
It will keep doing whatever it was doing before you did this. Your not disabling the vtec function just sending the "working as needed" signal back to the ecm, even if it's not working.
Does the VTEC still work with this?
It will do whatever it was doing before you split this wire. If it was working before it will keep working after. If it was not working before it will be not working after.
@@jeremiahdickson569 glad to hear that
@@athiam152 No vtec is not working if you do this, the reason you lost vtec is because your not making enough oil pressure to trip the vtec switch to verify to the ecu vtec is working, you are simply fooling the ecu into thinking the verification is there which will not throw limp mode. this fix is a band aide to keep your car running, it is not the proper fix and vtec is likely not working before or after this fix. This fix is simply eliminating the limp mode issue.
I don't see the purpose of doing this if your Vtec oil switch isn't working then replace the VTEC oil switch I'm guessing that the VTEC is not kicking in and causing issues it happens like I said just replace the VTEC oil switch it cost me $20 on eBay
In my case we had replaced the VTEC assembly including the sensor multiple times. First time was aftermarket and the other was honda. We had changed all the VTEC components, cleaned all the internal screens that tend to clog up on this model vehicle, checked wiring, flushed the engine with seafoam and did an oil change and still had the same code. You are correct in saying you should fix the problem correctly. This car was gonna go to the scrap yard if this didnt work.
This is going to be a last resort. I love my element but this is the persistent issue with the vtec throwing the codes. I was advised that a bypass may result in potential consequences, though I'm not entirely sure what can happen by doing this. I've about had it and have contemplated selling it.
So I think there is a difference (I am not an expert at anything) between jumping out the VTEC which would make the VTEC not work at all and mess with the timing of the engine and what I did which was deleting the function of the VTEC pressure switch which is used as a confirmation by the ECM.
@@jeremiahdickson569 understood. I am not an auto expert, so while I get that this rewire would not prevent the vtec from functioning, I'm curious to know what "could" happen i guess. Perhaps so long as oil is routinely changed and general pressures are sustained, it should be fine?
@@The_Frost_Boss My thought is that if the VTEC quit working the ECM wouldnt know so no code would be thrown so the worst case would be a non working VTEC so it wouldnt change the timing at higher loads and rpms. The only problems I could think of is if the VTEC was stuck on which is not likely to happen but I guess could. Again I'm not a mechanic so maybe someone that knows more will chime in.
@@jeremiahdickson569 thank you for the responses. This seems fairly simple, do you recall where you got that particular 3 way splitter? Did you solder the wires down or are those being held by the blue caps?
@@The_Frost_Boss That is a crimped connector I grabbed in the electrical section at advanced auto. I'm sure soldering would make a better connection but this has held up so far.
This!
Does the Check Engine Light go away after doing this hack??? Thanks
After you reset the check engine light, it will not come back on for the P1259 code again ever. It will come on for other codes though if they present.
@@jeremiahdickson569Thanks bro it helps me greatly after doing the waring
I just did this on my 2000 Accord; this fix is confirmed to work on F series engines.
ua-cam.com/video/MuyESTHJPZg/v-deo.html
Glad to hear!
There's another solenoid on the front of the engine. It's held on by 1 bolt.
Where
That's the VVT solenoid,it's in the upper middle of the timing cover. It has nothing to do with VTEC though,it controls your cam phaser on the intake.
HELLO JERIMIAH, HOPE YOU CAN READ THIS. DO YOU THINK YOU CAN MAKE IT BY PASS ON MY HONDA ELEMENT ? I'M SO SICK OF REPLACING 2-3 SOLENOIDS RECENTLY, AND I AM IN VIRGINIA (I GUESS YOU ARE BASED OUT IN NORTH CAROLINA). IF YOU CAN DO IT FOR A FEE, PLEASE LET ME KNOW. I CAN DRIVE DOWN THERE TO SEE YOU. THANK YOU & PLEASE HELP !!!!