Must have mods for the DRZ400 | On Two Wheels
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- Опубліковано 18 чер 2024
- The #Suzuki #DRZ is an awesome #dualsport #motorcycle ! Here's are a list of the #mods for the #DRZ400 that can benefit you!
#bikemods #DRZmods #Suzuki #DRZ #DRZ400 #dualsport #Rallykit #RallyProject #bikeProject #DIYmechanic #DIYpaint #ADVbike #ADVBike #adventureRiding #Adventurebike #EnduroRiding #EnduroBike #vinylWrap #vinylwrapping
#OnTwoWheelsAU #onTwoWheels #australia #victoria #melbourne - Авто та транспорт
This is the Best DRZ Video conversion on You Tube. Very well explained.
Wow, thanks! I'm humbled to hear that!
Awesome breakdown of the 3x3! Thanks for posting👌🏽
Thank you, clear and to the point. Waiting on my first drz, low miles , all stock. Cant wait to follow your suggestions, subscribed.
Great video. I have the Keihin FCR-MX39 which is fantastic. One thing to note is if I went to a bigger tank I wouldn't be able to reach the choke, it's even hard now as it is! But I have the SM model so I'll stick with the stock tank. Also if you do the 3X3 plus a full exhaust system and Keihin carb look up the jetting. I took my bike to Dynoverks and they jetted it for me. 40hp at the rear tyre isn't near the European motards but it's enough to have a lot of fun without reliability issues. Also, a lithium battery is a great addition for the DRZ. The battery sits up high at the back of the bike and the stock battery feels like a 6 pack of beer where a lithium battery feels like a pack of cigarettes.
I'd say must have mods should include
• bypassing/eliminating the kickstand kill switch, and the neutral kill.
• Free power mod - (as power routing and mgmnt become issues down the road including battery, instrument display, etc. But are an easy fix)
• Water pump fix (before it become issue)
• Manual cam chain tensioner - (just do it early so you don't risk missing that window of suck in the future when it let's loose because procrastination)
• Petcock swap to manual, (and add a sticker near keys witch that reminds you to turn the damn thing off when turning the bike off)
• CS nut locktite mod if you change the tooth number on front sprocket, which depends on where/how you ride (street urban / highway, vs singletrack/dirt/climbing etc.)
• Basically lookup the essential mods and FAQ sections on Thumpertalk forums.
Very good clear videos!!!
Great video bud. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it
Just hate when I drop my DRZ outside my favourite kebab shop! ;)
Great video, just got my DRZ400s a month ago - Thanks!
That came from an instance where I almost DID drop the bike outside a kebab shop, when I was impatient to run inside to get a Kebab!
Nice list of DRZ tips, all good stuff for sure. I used to have an E model and I loved that thing, extremely reliable and very fun for the 5 years I abused it.
Here's a couple little tricks you can do to your FCR carb that you may not have known about that will provide some improvements.
#1: The accelerator pump has a very long squirt, unnecessarily long in most cases. There are various ways to adjust this squirt with some sort of clamp on the push-rod or you can purchase a fancy bowl from R&D Racing that is adjustable. I personally drilled and tapped the bottom of the accelerator pump cover and installed a small allen head bolt along with a lock nut that allowed me to adjust the squirt duration. I'm sure you could find various techniques for this online probably. Anyway, with this mod you will get a little bit sharper throttle response along with less chance of a bog when you open the throttle very quickly such as trying to wheelie over a big rut or log or something like that. As an added bonus you will conserve a tiny bit of fuel for every time you twist the throttle (which could be hundreds of times during a ride) so you will get more mileage from your tank. Not a ton of extra mileage but it does make a difference. I think I ended up changing the needle position by a clip or two also to make it perfect but can't remember cause it was a long time ago that I did this.
#2: Adjust your accelerator pump squirt timing. You want the squirt to spray the fuel when the slide begins to move, but not so soon that it sprays onto the slide itself. There's a little screw you can use to adjust this, its located near the throttle cam under the cover where the throttle cable attaches. This can make a huge difference especially if the timing is off to begin with for whatever reason.
#3: O-ring your accelerator pump linkage. The same area where the above mentioned adjusting screw is located is a place where you can install a small rubber o-ring so that the accelerator pump push-rod will always press down on the diaphragm when it needs to. You can find a better explanation of this online, look up FCR O-ring mod. It's super easy to do and It works good.
#4: Get a Flex-Jet from R&D Racing. This little guy will make it so you can very easily adjust your fuel screw for different conditions so you can keep that throttle response just right as you make big changes in elevation during your rides.
I may ride a KTM 350XCF nowadays but once a DRZ owner always part of the DRZ brotherhood at heart for me so I'm happy to see people enjoying the good ol' DRZ still after 20+ years :)
wow! that's some pretty in depth analysis and work you've done on the carb!! This is super useful! Thanks!!
Great video, just bought myself a 2020 drz.
Good choice! I'm sure you'll thoroughly enjoy it over the years!
I bought a 2020 drz last October. I enjoy it!
I put Horses reins on my DRZ. Now I run behind it and this saves my tyres.
🎶 Under the Seat! [un-der the seat]
Under the Seat! [un-der the seat]
Carbs breathe much better,
Where it’s less wetter,
Under the Seat !!!! 🧜♀️ 🐠 🎶
yepp!!!
Though if you drown the bike, water collects at the bottom of the hose and doesn't drain out.. so you need to point them down a bit.
I have a DRZ 400 "kicker" or "K" model, the one with kickstart only. I raced Sonora Rally with mine. I like this particular "k" model because, as I understand, it has a light flywheel, hot cam, and FCR carb as standard. I have NOT done the big bore kit but I did open the airbox, free flowing exhaust, and rejet the carb. The motor pulls so strong now! It doesn't feel like a 450 enduro bike but it certainly pulls hard with immediate throttle response. I don't feel the need to increase displacement with the big bore. Power is a function of engine speed and you get higher engine speed by flowing more air. It's a no brainer. If you want more power you need 3 things: 1. adjust the air/fuel mixture (3x3 airbox, jetting, and exhuast) 2. flow more air through the head (hot cams) and 3. allow the engine to wind up quicker (light flywheel). I suppose there is a 4th thing: keep it pinned!!! BRAAAAAAAAAAP
Yes, I think the US E model with the kicker was pretty hardcore compared to the S/SM.
It's nice to hear first hand info on how the mods actually affect the bike! Thanks mate!
Thanks for the info bro
Hope it helped!!
Most other markets/countries have a different carb on the S model, the CV vacuum carb. if you don't rejet after opening the air box it will run bad. JD or Dynojet, the needle being the critical thing. Or fit the FCR carb ;)
Great vid Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it! Hope you find it useful!
Well done!
thanks! Hope you found it useful!
With bigger gastank, have you had any space issues with air cooler ventilator on the left side?
Nice vid mate 👍🏻
Cheers mate! I hope you find it useful!
Could you give me the purchase reference of the chassis protectors to avoid rubbing against the boras?
Great Ideas. did the case guards and lowered mine. stock jetting works fine 3000 ft elevation. with more air 2005 e model, and I remove the exhaust tip. That spark arrestor needs to be modified. I just remove it for now.
Yeah if you're happy with the deeper louder exhaust note, you can easily run without the spark arrester. I feel the bike is a bit more responsive with it.
Re jet if you do the air box and exhaust also the hot cams are good but you need to service more often
I've recently heard (from a couple of people) that the hot-cams while good, are not as big an upgrade over the stock E-model cams. I'm really curious to see a quantifiable comparison (in performance)
Good Video!......you are correct, 3x3 does NOT require a re-jet with Stock Exhaust!! Period......the Stock exhaust Hole diameter is still restricting to the factory limitations, regardless of how much Air comes in!....so you're Only getting a Throttle Response difference, but Not any power gains......but IF you get an aftermarket Exhaust with Wider exit hole....then you need to Re-jet.
Right on! Personally, I feel that even right now the limiting factor is my riding skill and not the bike itself. The day it's the other way around, that's when i need to look at an exhaust!
Unless you use a hole saw and cut out the core of the stock exhaust. It opens up quite well and not only flows much much better, but also power and sounds much better too.
Have a hard time thinking that you would have a big boar kit without a bigger exhaust system. I would recommend it if anyone hasn't. Thanks for your honest opinion on the mods.
Great point! I was pondering over the items to talk about in this video, but I can't believe I missed out on exhaust! And the exhaust deserves a video of its own, don't you think!!
I was thinking the exact same thing
Great video man. Thx for sharing. Definitely gonna do the fuel line mod and fcr carb kit. Can't wait. If ya have any tips for that lmk. Thx
Will do. I'll surely share what I learn about these bikes!
Excellent video, thanks man. Having done it, would you recommend the big bore mod (power vs reliability)?
Yes, definitely! The big-bore has the feel of having an extra gear by letting you stretching out the ratios more (with a 15T front sprocket). But I wouldn't recommend throwing away a good cylinder to put this in, but if you are due for a new cylinder/piston, might as well throw in the extra $$ and go big-bore
I have a drz 400 e stock brings a fcr carb a cames like hot cames and a big compression head gasket and exaust pipe is larger diameter , and air box intraque stock is like 3x3 mods , stock is 48 hp its ok
Yeah, the stock E model is a pretty capable bike, but depending on our individual riding styles, and the types of rides we do, there's always ways to improve. So if anything there's no one-perfect-setup.
When I did my 3x3 and rejetted I gained tons of power and my gas mileage went from 65-85 miles per gallon on stock to 100-120 mpg after definitely best mods I have did to mine
Thanks for sharing. That's a pretty big change!! wow!
What jet sizes to you go to? What sea level are you at?
Very good, comprehensive, useful video. One improvement suggestion: add some prices for the mods like the carb. Just as a guideline for us, toddlers :) Cheers
Glad you enjoyed it mate! The reason I stayed away from the prices is because it could change depending on the market. In Australia you can get a used carb for about $300. A new big bore kit is abou$600, The Safari tank new is about $470, and if you're lucky you can get one 2nd hand for about 250. Hope that helps :)
@@OnTwoWheels Thanks a lot, mate. Sure helps. Greetings from Portugal.
@@GabrielAlmeidaSoares cheers mate! Happy to help!!! It's amazing how the DRZ riding community stretches to all corners of the world :)
@@OnTwoWheels Indeed! That's one of reasons I wanna get one for myself..Hurray for Internet!
Awesome stuff, mate. Thanks for sharing all that info. Whereabouts are you located, dude? I thought you were in Australia but I didnt think they had the DRZ400S here?
Also, it's worth mentioning... technically you are actually affecting the fuel mixture by increasing air flow. In aspirated engines, the air flow affects the amount of air that gets into the engine every cycle, consequently affecting the air/fuel mixture. So, technically, the air was not "gonna go in anyway", it will go in as an effect of the less restrictive flow.
Brilliant work though! I love the vids!
Cheers, mate
Thanks for the continuous support mate!
Yes, I'm in Melbourne, but I used to live in Singapore and I rode a S-model there. On the topic of S-models I think Australia DID get them for a very brief period. I remember seeing some 2009-2010 bikes hit the 2nd hand market a couple of times. But in AU where you can get a proper road legal E-model, there's no real benefit in going for an S, which is why I assume they discontinued it here.
On the air-fuel mixture, wouldn't the amount of fuel being dispensed from the jet be proportionate to the amount of air? so if there's more air going there's more petrol leaving the jet. Let me take some numbers for demonstration. Let's say the ideal air-fuel mixture is 90 parts air and 10 parts fuel. This is controlled by the jets. And with the restricted airbox, 100 parts of air-fuel mixture is pulled into the cylinder. But now with the 3x3 mod we get 50% more air.... so instead of the 90 parts of air we now get 135 parts. But as the 135 parts go through the carb it pulls the proportion of fuel as per jet (i.e 90/10 mix) so 15 parts of fuel come out. So the mixture ratio is 135/15, same as 90/10, but the difference is now we're sending in 150 parts of mixture instead of 100, hence where the more power comes from. BUT this didn't need a rejet.
This is my train of thought.. I'm open to being proven wrong... what do you think?
@@OnTwoWheels awesome mate... might hit you for a ride next time I am in Melbourne. I hope the lock down isn't driving you crazy.
Answering to your question, no, the increase in air flow will not drive the same level of increase in fuel flow.
The amount of fluid which will enter the cylindre is defined by the negative pressure (or positive if it was a turbo charged engine) and resistance to flow. The negative pressure depends on piston size and valve opening, therefore it stays unchanged. However, as you are reducing the resistance to flow on the air end, the amount of air entering the engine will increase while the amount of fuel will remain virtually the same. To allow for more fuel to enter you will need to reduce the flow resistance on the fuel side, which is done by increasing the opening of the jets.
Opening the air flow will not increase the negative pressure in the cylindre, thus it will not naturally increase fuel flow. In fact, depending on how much you open the air intake, you can actually reduce the negative pressure and reduce fuel flow.
Sorry, it's worth mentioning we are talking about a basic carby. The DRZ400E actually has a priming pump which will squirt fuel when you start throttling. That flow also remains unchanged.
In an EFI engine the flow of fuel will be adjusted to compensate the extra air though.
@@alexcouto1818 This sounds logically correct! Based on what you mentioned I was reading even more on the Venturi effect, and you're right, the pressure at which petrol is pulled from the float bowl will change as the volume (and velocity) changes. So the mixture can change! I must def do more reading up on this... maybe a whole video perhaps :)
Love your accent!
Thanks mate! haha!
I know this is an older video, but I’d rather have a factory opened airbox, then have to cut mine and butcher it, I need to dig into the Suzuki parts catalog and find out!
Nice, how's the rims holding up with that new paint?
With Covid lockdown, I've not had a chance to take it out in the dirt yet! But we're getting out of lockdown next week, so time to put it to test!!
Hello, thanks for the info. I just bought a 2021 drz400sm, I have changed the rear sprocket from a 41 tooth to a 38 tooth, and I love it, I am putting a Joshi rs2 carbin full pipe, and I am looking to get the lectron 38mm carb. Because of the no jetting.
I have looking to see if lector makes a 39 or 40mm carb "but" i can't seem to find that info.and I will also be looking at the big bore kit. It a new bike, I have had it a week, got over 500 miles on it from riding to work,
Which is a total of 42 miles 1 way ,
With that said 13 miles are canyon riding till I get to the freeway then 25 miles of freeway ,and 4 mile of city streets , 1 way.
I really like how you take about the mods,
Thanks.
Be Safe, Take Care, Love and Respect be with You and Yours. Bruce
Yeah, if the bike is new pulling out a perfectly fine piston and cylinder almost sounds wasteful.. maybe give it a few more years before you go big-bore :)
@@OnTwoWheels i installed the Joshi rs2 this weekend, made i big improvement,
Now I am waiting on the Lectron carb to arrive, can't wait to see what that will do.
Yeah a couple friends of mine told me also that I should wait on the big bore kit,
I will debate with myself after I put the carb in, my lower kit comes today, the new seat for some reason, will take till a total of around 38 business days to ship out ,
I don't really understand why, it has been paid for March 17th , but that what the place that I bought it from said , .
Have you tried actually contacting Lectron? Their contact info is on their website.
Nice video and recommendations, I have a question, I am about to change my front sprocket to 15 teeth one, but I will still have the same engine, is it worth it? My objective is to get more speed, but do you think I will need a 440 big bucket upgrade?
Spricket change is absolutely worth it mate. So I have 2 wheelselts my road wheel has a 44T sprocket at the back and the off road wheel has a 47T. I have the stock 14T front sprocket. On my offroad road wheel the bike's highest comfortable highway cruising speed is about 90kmph. But with the road wheel it cruises at about 100kmph at the same RPMs. So the 44vs47 rear sprocket is the same difference as a 14vs15 front sprocket. While you're theoretically getting less off road torque, personally I barely feel it. So if highway is your main focus go upro 15t. Cheaper and easier than putting in a big-bore that you dont 'need'
That being said there are some people who do even lower at the back. So uo8 can probably even pull off 15/44 or 15/41. Might not be the most aggressive start in stop/go traffic but bike will feel less buzzy on the highways.
Is the fcr carb the mx39? Also My first dual sport im learning a lot. Does that carb come jetted? And can I install this carb and just take off that boot instead of cutting a hole? One more thing. Can I run the stock exhaust with those mods? And if I end up getting a better exhaust do I have to rejet the fcr carb?
Yes it's the mx39. Carb and jetting will depend on where you live/aquire it. Just be prepared to manually check the jet sizes when getting an FCR carb, and checking the forums to understand how to match jetting and also fuel screw settings for the elevation (and climate/weather) you live in.
Regarding the 3x3 mod, if it's an older model, it won't have the removable *top boot* at the top of the airbox. It'll be solid plastic with a much smaller breather hole. Those are the models where you cut a 3"x3" hole in top of airbox - the newer models have a rubber boot in top instead, and when you pull that out, it leaves a roughly 3"x3" hole just as if you'd cut it in.
Yes you can run the stock exhaust regardless of whichever carb... But you'd be smart to take a small hole saw (you'll have to lookup the diameter, I cannot recall), and cut the inner core out of the stock exhaust (through the exhaust hole)
You'll end up with MUCH better airflow through the whole system (esp with the 3x3 because it DOES flow much more air through). Do to this higher airflow, you'll need to (most likely) rejet regardless of carb choice, and depending on what jet sizes currently running.
BTW, once you cut out the exhaust core, you'll usually feel the increase in power and it actually sounds quite decent.
Upgrading exhaust system can save you a lot of weight tho, the stock exhaust is a bit of a pig.
FMF also makes a powerbomb replacement header which adds some grunt and good sound to the setup.
So much you can do with these bikes. Thumpertalk forum has an entire dedicated forum to key mods and fixes every drz owner should read & consider doing...
@@AdaptivePrep hey man thank you!
pronounciation tip for acerbis is Ah-chair-beez
Thanks! clearly my guess was wayyy off :D
Can you tell me where to get a service manual, Dilly? LBS don’t seem able to sell me one. Cheers, mate.
Easiest is download the "DRZ400 companion" app. It has the service manual as a PDF as well as a indexed view which makes it easy to find stuff!
What’s your honest opinion on using this bike as an adventure touring bike? Can you and should I buy one for this or go another route?
If you can deal with the height of the bike, it is excellent.
I have a DRZ set up with panniers, large fuel tank, FCR carb, a windscreen, slip on FMR exhaust, bash plates, Seat Concepts saddle, Pirelli Rallycross tires, engine guards, and a Rekluse clutch. I added a kick start to this bike as it cannot be push started due to the clutch.
It is an excellent adventure bike as long as you feel that 70mph is adequate for highway use. Many of the roads I ride on are about 100 miles to get to the dirt trails. It is far better on rough trails than a V-Strom, KLR, or BMW1200 due to the lower weight and superior suspension travel. Power is more than adequate.
As a new DRZ400s owner, I have been working on making mine into an adventure bike, slowly. I started w a Parabellum rally windscreen which in hindsight isnt quite adequate for highway use. The DRZ seems most comfortable at 73 mph on the freeway, so if that is fast enough for you, then great. The lack of a 6th gear and watching other bikes fly by me makes me wish I had held out for a KTM 690 Enduro R. But my bike is still breaking in. I only have 200 miles on it.
I will do the JD jet kit and 3x3 mod to eek out more power ,- I just wish I didnt have to.
1 all s and sm models need a 3x3 mod and rejetting. no such thing as a 3x3 for drz400e they are 3"x3.75" stock and do not need jetting as they have an entirely different bigger carb (fcr39mm) that's jetted properly stock and only needs fine tuning to suit exhaust but does not need new jets.
2 the fcr carb already has two t pieces on the carb run two lines one from each side of carb up the frame behind the headlight.
3 the side stand switch is dangerous piss it off.
4 the stock headlight is decent everywhere and doesn't wash out hollows like led.
5 over 10yrs riding drz's no case guards no issues.
6 28l safari needing a pump is complete and utter bullshit.
7 a big bore kit will make absolutely no difference to revs or gearing the stock motor will pull any gearing you'd want to run
8 stage 2 hot cams are basically identical to stock E cams stage 3 will lose bottom end.
9 wide ratio gearset is like using !5/44 gearing for top speed but still keeping the low 1st gear that the stock 14/47 provides or you can run 15/47 + wide ratio for even lower highway cruising speed than 15/44 without wide ratio and still keep a lower 1st for tight trails.
Thank you very much for sharing that!! ! It's absolutely great information! I've followed some of your feedback responses on Facebook too!! Very useful!! cheers mate!
@@OnTwoWheels small mistake in my reply 15/47+ wide ratio would give lower cruising revs or faster top speed than 15/44 without wide ratio.
Hi Michael, thankyou for clarifying what is needed for drz400e (late models?). So many people just repeat what they have heard. I would be interested in what other fixes are required for late model drz400e as there are suggested fixes to alternator, regulator, gearshift spline, main drive gear also floating around on the internet. Surely Suzuki has done some of these over time?
Regards
Garry
I have a 5 e model and I modify the exhaust tip, It is kinda small. I just take it off for now lol. One mod that nobody has mentioned. and you are right the 3x3 mod doesn't matter on a newer model. I also add a kawaski kz 650? not sure the model petcock and add a fuel filter. It faces forward but gives room to do a 180 with the hose and add a fuel filter.. disabling the vacume operated fuel petcock. just cap a vac port on the carb.
@@rodneyl7271 E model doesn't have a vacuum petcock. or a vacuum port on the carb for one. unless it's what california called an e model but really had an s model motor and carb.
no true E model needs a 3x3 mod they all have bigger openings standard.
If you have the money, skip the FCR and get the Lectron carb instead.
I've heard that from a couple of guys, though I've not seen many for sale around AU.
700-800 bucks to waste you mean 😂
But Suziki not launch yet in India, I like Drz400sm n S ...
That's too bad. The E is more of a 'hyped' up version of the S with the FCR carb.
where are u from ?
How do you remove rear fender
you need to take the seat off, then there's a couple of bolts that go through the tail light assembly on the side, then a couple bolting onto the subframe, then a couple of bolts towards the engine side (exposed under the wheel arch).. the trickiest bit is getting the rear light/blinker wires out of the hole right under the seat.
hope that helps and hope I didnt miss anything. It's fairly intuitive i think..
Good video.But no mention of exhausts.Everyone changes them.
That's a very good point mate! I totally forgot about it. That being said, I think exhausts deserve a whole video by itself. I should do some more research on that first, because I've only been using stock exhausts and the only "mod" I did was remove the spark arrester on it.
Thanks again for bringing up exhausts!
After 3x3 and rejet my deezer wellies on second gear only from throttle
Cool! Did you ride the bike after the 3x3 and before the rejet? did the rejet make a difference?
Much better throttle response
Stock drz very restricted
Approx +0.7l per 100km fuel consumption
@@DenisASW so it takes a burns a bit more fuel? i guess it makes sense... cos it now sucks in more air/fuel mixture, right?
Where to buy the fcr carb ?
I think the best way is to keep an eye out on the 2nd hand market. It's pretty common in Australia because the E model is popular, but I dont think it's as common elsewhere (with the SM and S)
💁🏻♂️I really hate when I drop my KLX400SR in front of kabob shop..😒
Let's just say I've heard of more than one person who's done it :D
Hard not to like that accent.
Unless it's customer support 😂
@@bubbleballs6200 😁
Part it out
haha! yeah mate! Let's just say I've been there and done that! Check it out!
ua-cam.com/video/QAYAtbooY2M/v-deo.html
@@OnTwoWheels already watched that video. I watch your videos as they are published. Love your content man keep em coming!
@@Trenislife That's awesome mate! Thanks for the support!!
You should not be allowed to own motor vehicles of any kind . Here's a bicycle.
Three comments on three different videos all being a knob. Pull ya head in.
You should not be able to access the internet. Fucktard.
I do cycle too, but a bicycle's too bullet proof for me to kill easily and have a story to tell. haha!