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Brewing a Non Alcoholic Beer | Lager | Low & No Alcohol Brewing with Ultralow Brewing
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- Опубліковано 18 сер 2024
- Welcome to another brew-day with Ultralow Brewing. In this video, we’ll be going through the step-by-step process to brew this incredible tasting non-alcoholic Lager. With a tasty malt backbone and a smooth balanced bitterness, this is sure to be a hit all year round.
Brew-day notes to help you brew this great beer:
- High temperature mash (80°C) focusing on a more dextrinous wort for less fermentable sugars.
- Grains milled coarsely to reduce efficiency.
- No Sparge, squeeze bag.
- Hot cubed/no chill.
- Due to processes used, the beer can be quite hazy and hot-side finings such as Whirlfloc/Irish Moss, or cold-side finings such as gelatine/Biofine etc. are required to help clear the beer.
- OG 1.006 FG 1.004
- Mash pH: 5.33
- Fermenter volume 8.5 ltrs
- Post-boil pH: 5.42, 1.7 ml 88% lactic acid added to target of 4.6.
- Post fermentation pH 4.46
- pH is important, be sure to acidify the wort to at least a pH of 4.6-4.8 before pitching the yeast. You will only observe a drop of around 0.3-0.5 pH with such a low attenuation, so manual intervention is necessary for extended shelf life, overall flavour and most importantly, food safe levels (below 4.6 is safe against most pathogens).
Results may vary.
For more information on brewing ultralow and non-alcoholic beers, be sure to visit our website for plenty more information, guides and experiments.
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Brewfather recipe link:
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Recipe:
BIAB (No Sparge) 78-80°C
23.3% efficiency
Batch Volume: 8.5L
Boil Time: 30 min
Mash Water: 12.59 L
Total Water: 12.59 L
Boil Volume: 12.2 L
Pre-Boil Gravity: 1.005
Vitals:
Original Gravity: 1.006
Final Gravity: 1.004
IBU (Tinseth): 19
BU/GU: 3.22
Colour: 11.2 EBC
Mash:
Mash - 80 °C - 30 min
Malts (732 g)
228 g (31.2%) - Simpsons Pale Ale Finest Maris Otter - Grain - 5 EBC
204 g (27.9%) - Joe White Maltings Munich, Light - Grain - 17.7 EBC
102 g (13.9%) - Weyermann Carapils/Carafoam - Grain - 3.9 EBC
102 g (13.9%) - Simpsons Crystal Light - Grain - 104 EBC
96 g (13.1%) - Blue Lake Maltings Barley, Flaked - Grain - 3.3 EBC
Hops: (23.5 g)
3.5 g (14 IBU) - Super Pride 13.3% - Boil - 30 min
20 g (5 IBU) - Saaz 3.2% - Boil - 5 min
Miscs:
1 g - Calcium Chloride (CaCl2) - Mash
.3 g - Canning Salt (NaCl) - Mash
0.2 g - Epsom Salt (MgSO4) - Mash
1.6 g - Gypsum (CaSO4) - Mash
Yeast:
0.5 pkg - Mangrove Jack's M54 California Lager
Fermentation:
Primary - 19 °C - 7 days
Cold Crash - 4 °C - 2-4 days
Carbonation: 2.5 CO2-vol
Water Profile:
Ca2+: 52 Mg2+: 2 Na+: 17 Cl-: 57 SO42-: 78 HCO3-: 16
![Homebrewing a Low Alcohol Beer [Secrets Revealed!] - Brew Dudes](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/aN9ywninxfw/mqdefault.jpg)
Awesome video! Just subbed, been wanting to make some more NA beers and will be returning to your channel to keep learning
Thank you!!! I'll be sure to keep posting :) NA beers are such a great style to make.
Good one mate, looks like you’ve perfected this style.
Thank you! As simple and basic as this style is, it's easily one of my favourites and completely under rated.
Thanks for an awesome production. I really appreciate the content. I was wondering why you mashed at 82C?
You're welcome, I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
I mash at 82°C to reduce the fermentability of the wort by favouring the short (but efficient) life span of the alpha amylase enzyme and produce a wort with higher molecular weight sugars (maltotriose, dextrins, B-Glucans etc.) Rather than have them broken down into more fermentable sugars (maltose, glucose, sucrose, fructose etc.). By doing this I can increase body and mouthfeel, while limiting my conversion, creating a lower OG, and lowering my rate of attenuation, thus making a lower abv beer.
And pasturising the AA enzymes @@UltraLowbrewing ??
@andrewbayley1689 they do become denatured at this heat, but they are still active on a rapidly descending scale, so for the first 15-20, you'll still get some conversion happening. The Beta Amylase, on the other hand is completely inactivated at these temperatures.
Enjoy your content a lot! You explain things very well. I just wonder what tool you use to calculate the amount of lactic acid before pitching yeast... Can you please explain?
Thank you! I have a video covering the acid adjustment coming soon, I just have to do the audio for it and I'll be uploading it :)
There are 2 ways you can approach the adjustment:
- Titration: Decant a measured amount of wort (eg 1ltr) and using a dropper, 1ml syringe or micro scales, add small amounts of acid until you reach your target pH. Then scale up to your batch size and add the required amount of acid.
- Software: Using the Brewfather brew day tab, fill in your batch numbers (OG, FV volume, etc.), then using the "adjusted recipe" section you can adjust the water chem pH to your current pH, then using "Acid (Mash)", input your acid type and strength %, then increase the amount until you reach your target pH. Once reached, add about 75% of the acid, recheck the pH and add the remaining as required to hit target.
The second one is a little more complicated and only a ballpark, but it should make sense in the video.
Titration is the simplest and quickest method.
@@UltraLowbrewing thanks for the quick response! 👍
Just a bit of constructive criticism... You are actually adding oxygen when transferring to the keg, as the tube isn't "emptied" from oxygen.
Noticed that too... i have fitted a female universal ball lock connector to the end of my transfer hose which i connect to fermenter, open tap and, and release a few ml of beer before connecting to the 'out' post on the keg.. for the sake of $3 for the part its saved hundreds of L of beer from oxidization
Can you explain the principle behind how you get it low alcohol? I may have missed something. That M54 is the bomb btw its my go to lager yeast, makes a great lager at high temperatures. I guess thats mostly the high strike temperature and the coarse grains? What does that cool down too when you put the grains in?
I'm trying to figure out how to make low, like 3.4% alcohol brew, because I like to guzzle lots of beer but not get trashed until I'm done
Sure thing, the low grain bill = low OG, so that's the starting point, then I coarsely mill the grain to reduce my efficiency, combined with a high mash temperature of 80C for 30 minutes, favoring the alpha amylase range to produce a higher dextrin and maltotriose sugar beer with less glucose and maltose production. I love the M54, such a great choice for quick and easy lagers with minimal effort, and it taste great!
If you're aiming for some great mid-strength beers, try dropping some of your base malt in favor for some more spec grain and/or adjuncts such as flaked oats/barley/wheat to increase body and mouthfeel. Also try raising your mash temperature up to around 72-76C and reduce your mash time, this will slow down the conversion of complex sugars into simple sugars such maltose and glucose.
Ive just in the last month decided to give up the grog, but dont want my brewing equipment and passion for brewing to go to waste, i am all over this!!
So basically i can scale this up to 30L (the capacity of my unitank).. am i correct in saying i mash at that 30L and rather than fly sparge i simply raise the basket and let it drain, then water the wort down to my preferred pre boil gravity?? Seems so dang easy!!
That's awesome to hear! I hope we can help where we can, be sure to check out our website www.ultralowbrewing.com and the Facebook group "NA Homebrewers" for some great info!
Yeah pretty much!
I brew full volume/no sparge, so I don't usually require dilution for pre boil, but if my numbers are a little high, I will do a quick top up before the boil the keep the SG low.
@UltraLowbrewing awesome mate, ill be in touch if i have any questions..
@UltraLowbrewing i usually ferment my beer under pressure, have you tried doing this? I cant imagine it building much pressure to be effective and gain the benifits..
@@JoshOB21 I don't do pressure fermentation as I don't have the equipment for it, but there are a few brewers that do pressure ferment with their LA/NA beers.
You won't see a lot of pressure building, similair to that of bottle conditioning really. You also don't get a whole lot of ester production due to the short fermentation, so you won't see a great deal of difference in overall flavour.
is it completely alcohol free
Not completely alcohol free, but its 0.4% abv, so a non alcoholic beer (
@@UltraLowbrewing is it possible for it to be completely free
@@user-fn9gs9hf5q the only way to be completely free of alcohol on the homebrew scale is to not ferment the wort. This means a completely different flavour profile, as you'll have all of the sugars present, and no fermentation profile from the yeast. This results in a beverage that doesn't really taste like beer at all.
@@UltraLowbrewing thank you❤the important thing is that it is not harmful
have you calculated calories?
I haven't had it tested, but Brewfather predicts the beer at 6 calories/1.1 carbs per 100ml.