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@JamesWillson008 That's a pretty decent idea! You could drop the hops and replace it with the ginger, just note that the ginger will add some (not much) sugars, and you "may" see the abv go up a little. I'd also suggest adding it to the boil at flame out to pasteurise the ginger and not let it bring any extra bacteria/yeast.

@@UltraLowbrewing would hops not work with ginger then? my idea is to have a nice standard ipa but with a ginger kick.

@JamesWillson008 I suppose they would, I have heard of people dry hopping their ginger beer, but I think I would find the tropical/pine flavours mixed with the ginger confusing on the palate. Though it may also work out really well! You could also try some noble hops (saaz, styrian, hallertau etc.) That have more earthy/spice flavours to compliment.

@nathanr2912 that's great to hear! I do the full volume as it's easier to just do it all at the start. But it does also sterilise the water as a bonus. You're welcome! Hopefully it helps to make some fantastic NA beers 😁

@diederiklegrange7248 Thank you! No, I haven't done any work in the commercial setting. Everything is self-taught 🙂

@@UltraLowbrewing what sort of lab equipment have you got? 1)Do you only use a refractometer to measure gravity, or would you use a hydrometer sometimes? 2)To alter your water composition, does RO make the water basically be distilled with no minerals? Or do you know your water by now, from doing previous lab analysis? 3) How do you measure you end alcohols? Do you like have an ebulliometer, or would you determine it from the refractometer reading?

@diederiklegrange7248 1. I use both, I like the refractometer for the brew day and the hydrometer for during fermentation. 2. The RO water gives you a clean profile to start with no minerals. Making it easier to monitor my salt additions. 3. For measuring my final alcohol, I use a hydrometer and use an abv calculator to determine the abv.

@@thfccfht Why not?

@@UltraLowbrewing tried it, its bollocks, cup of tea for me.

Thanks David! We really appreciate the kind words. Hopefully we'll have some new videos up in the second half of the year as we try to balance creating video content with other commitments 😁

You assume correctly! I'm on the north side, right up the top. I highly recommend it, it's a great beer. I do have some other styles (Pale Ales, IPA, Lager/Pils etc.) as well if hazies aren't his thing. pH plays an important role, not just in stability, but in the overall experience of the beer. A good pH can emphasise the beers taste, mouthfeel and clarity. If the pH is out of range, you can end up with a not so good beer. So I'd say definitely, it's quite important.

@@UltraLowbrewing awesome, cheers for the heads up! He usually drinks Cooper's 0 but it's pig swill to me, all non alcoholic beers I've tried are just too sweet. Have you played around with any of the targeted low attenuation yeast yet? I'm up Bullsbrook way so up the tippy top too

@haydenkirkby I agree, especially the lagers, they're often far too sweet. I like to brew mine to be on the drier/bitter side. The maltose negative strains? I have, I've used LA-01 previously and currently working my way through a very large amount of LoNa. They're both good strains, but I do prefer the LoNa over LA-01. Oh nice! I'm Alkimos, hop skip and a jump away haha.

I'm sorry to hear it's too complicated, I find it quite simple and very much similar to regular all grain brewing myself.

Absolutely, there is not a lot of ester formation with no/low alcohol beers, so pressure fermentation would be fine.

Alcohol is a great extraction solvent, though you can also make an alcohol free alternative using glycerine and water (3:1). I've not used the hopzoil or the Yakima products, but I have tried some hop extracts from 'HopZero'. I wasn't a fan of the results, so it wasn't something I revisited. There has been some great developments in the hop oil extract products in recent times, so I may look into it again at some point. I know some larger brewers have switched to using them in place of their dry hop to reduce enzyme activity (hop creep).

Thank You!

Not completely alcohol free, but its 0.4% abv, so a non alcoholic beer (<0.5%)

@@UltraLowbrewing is it possible for it to be completely free

@@user-fn9gs9hf5q the only way to be completely free of alcohol on the homebrew scale is to not ferment the wort. This means a completely different flavour profile, as you'll have all of the sugars present, and no fermentation profile from the yeast. This results in a beverage that doesn't really taste like beer at all.

@@UltraLowbrewing thank you❤the important thing is that it is not harmful

0.0% abv isn't achievable on the homebrew scale unless you skip the fermentation cycle. Which then leaves a beer tasty worty and unbalanced. Unfortunately there's no processes viable to reach the full zero mark without very expensive equipment (as used by large commercial breweries). What you can do is adjust the recipe to lower the starting gravity, in turn lowering the abv, or using a maltose negative yeast strain to further reduce the abv. By doing so, you can lower the abv down to 0.1-0.2% abv which is about the lowest possible alcohol content a homebrewer can reach.

You're welcome!

You're welcome! Thank you very much. 🍺

Be sure to let us know how it turns out!

You can drink it right away if desired, or you can lager it further. I generally have it sit for 2-3 weeks while it's carbonating before I start drinking it. The extended lagering does help with the melanoidin malt in terms of it balancing out, as those bready/toasty notes can be quite prominent at the start, and will smooth right out to a malty flavour with age.

You're welcome! We try to continue to upload more videos when time permits, so be sure to subscribe to the channel to receive updates when new videos are released!

I took the 1 litre sample from the boil kettle once it had cooled down to an appropriate temperature and let it sit separately to cool down further (No-chill brewing) But it can also be taken from the fermenter if preffered.

@@UltraLowbrewing thanks mate. What batteries do you use for your pH meter? I have the same I think, but couldn't find the correct batteries

@@Robust2013 You're welcome, I use the Energizer A76 button batteries.

Normal water will be fine, as will bottled spring water. Both will change the water chemistry some, so if you have an up-to-date water report, you can adjust to suit your profile. Or simply just brew with the water "as-is"

@@UltraLowbrewing Thanks. I need to bottle. How long will it last in bottles? Is there anything I should add when bottling?

@@Robust2013 I can't speak for bottles as it's been many years since I used them, but I've had beers for over 6 months in kegs that are still great. I would recommend, once they reach the carbonation level intended, cold store them to maintain freshness (as you would any craft beer).

@@UltraLowbrewing Hi. Is there any reason for just covering the fermenter with plastic? Can one use a airlock?

@@Robust2013 It's just a personal preference of mine, I haven't used airlocks for years as I find this way simpler and cleaner. But you can certainly use a lid and airlock if you'd rather. 🙂

That would've made a thinner beer, lacking in mouthfeel due to the higher rate of dilution. Using more grain with the low efficiency increases the body/mouthfeel to emulate a higher abv beer.

Hey mate. The original recipe for this brew called for a 7.7kg grain bill and a projected 1.064 OG. I dialled it back to 3.2 kg and 1.008 OG. I have done other versions of this recipe since then that came out better by taking the spent grains from the cold mash, remashing them at 77⁰c and adding 300g of lactose in the boil. I then added 50ml of glycerine/19L at kegging. It came out at 1.8% abv and was delicious. I did another at 2.8% with a lower temp remash and honestly the flavour wasn't any better for the extra alcohol.

Happy to help 👍

It is yes and can be done later in your process, but fermentation only sees a drop of around 0.3-0.5 pH units in sub 0.8% beers, and with the lack of ethanol and Co2 during fermentation (compared to higher abv beers) this creates an ideal medium for the pathogens/bacteria to flourish if they're present. So mitigating any issues early will benefit well, it also reduces post fermentation handling and potentially spoiling the beer.

@@UltraLowbrewing very interesting -had no idea that ph drop was so low in low abv -explains everything -well done & thank u

You're welcome 👍

Thank you! Other than the initial pH adjustment prior to pitching, I don't do any extra steps for stability, just cold store in the kegerator and drink away.

Agreed, very beneficial!

You're welcome. I hope you try it and enjoy. 🍻

There are plenty of fermentable sugars in the extract. I just added some cold mashed body to it to bring the abv right down.

@@UltraLowbrewing id love to give it a try when you are home next, Ive been smashing that milk stoutI made.

That's awesome to hear! I hope we can help where we can, be sure to check out our website www.ultralowbrewing.com and the Facebook group "NA Homebrewers" for some great info! Yeah pretty much! I brew full volume/no sparge, so I don't usually require dilution for pre boil, but if my numbers are a little high, I will do a quick top up before the boil the keep the SG low.

@UltraLowbrewing awesome mate, ill be in touch if i have any questions..

​@UltraLowbrewing i usually ferment my beer under pressure, have you tried doing this? I cant imagine it building much pressure to be effective and gain the benifits..

@@JoshOB21 I don't do pressure fermentation as I don't have the equipment for it, but there are a few brewers that do pressure ferment with their LA/NA beers. You won't see a lot of pressure building, similair to that of bottle conditioning really. You also don't get a whole lot of ester production due to the short fermentation, so you won't see a great deal of difference in overall flavour.

Thank you! I have a video covering the acid adjustment coming soon, I just have to do the audio for it and I'll be uploading it :) There are 2 ways you can approach the adjustment: - Titration: Decant a measured amount of wort (eg 1ltr) and using a dropper, 1ml syringe or micro scales, add small amounts of acid until you reach your target pH. Then scale up to your batch size and add the required amount of acid. - Software: Using the Brewfather brew day tab, fill in your batch numbers (OG, FV volume, etc.), then using the "adjusted recipe" section you can adjust the water chem pH to your current pH, then using "Acid (Mash)", input your acid type and strength %, then increase the amount until you reach your target pH. Once reached, add about 75% of the acid, recheck the pH and add the remaining as required to hit target. The second one is a little more complicated and only a ballpark, but it should make sense in the video. Titration is the simplest and quickest method.

@@UltraLowbrewing thanks for the quick response! 👍

Noticed that too... i have fitted a female universal ball lock connector to the end of my transfer hose which i connect to fermenter, open tap and, and release a few ml of beer before connecting to the 'out' post on the keg.. for the sake of $3 for the part its saved hundreds of L of beer from oxidization

I haven't had it tested, but Brewfather predicts the beer at 6 calories/1.1 carbs per 100ml.

Thanks! It's taste fantastic. The recipe is actually designed around no-chill, so bo need to adjust to suit. But you would need to adjust the hops if you were chilling the wort to increase the bittering addition (though my suggestion is to run it as is to get an idea of the outcome, and adjust from there).

@@UltraLowbrewing understood! It's great it is already adjusted, I don't use a chiller.

@@GodlessPrick Awesome! Bear in mind, the larger the batch, the longer it'll take to cool and the higher the rate of conversion of AA into bittering compounds.

Thank you, you're welcome!

Hi Phillip, the reason behind the change is the NEM method is used by Ben (The other half of the team), whereas I prefer the High Temp method. Ben hasn't had a chance to do any updated videos since this beer, but I've been filming some of my brew days for the channel. His efficiencies were getting to around 25-30% for mash efficiency, which is pretty low, meaning you can use bigger grain bills.

@@UltraLowbrewing thanks for the quick response and all the great content, also on your website! So NEM can reach as low as 30% mash efficiency, 80-82°C is rather around 45%? And the Windsor Yeast, S-33 negative maltotriose yeast are also around 45-47% efficient. So in theory with a NEM mash + S-33 one can plan the grain bill for a typically 1.020 (5°P) beer and it will end up at 0,45% ABV? Starting gravity after mash/boil 1.008 and post ferment 1.004… For a hot mash + S-33 it would be more like 1.014 (4°P) to reach 0,47% ABV -> 1.008 starting gravity, 1.004 final gravity. I want to give all methods a go but would like to use as mush grain as possible to stay below 0,5% ABV in order to have as mush body in the beer.

@@philliptaud9464 You're welcome, we're glad you enjoy everything we're sharing and working on :) Correct, NEM can achieve very low mash efficiency, and the high temp can be between 35-65% depending of the grain bill (more base malt and finer crush, the higher the number). In theory yes, that would be a good estimate on the brew numbers and a great starting point for designing a recipe. A good way to boost body in either process is the use of oats and flaked barley, I use these in nearly every beer, as well as wheat (in complimenting styles of course). Higher chloride water will also boost the mouthfeel, and if you find it's still lacking, small additions of glycerine to the packaged beer will really boost the overall mouthfeel and body.

You're welcome, I'm glad you enjoyed the video. I mash at 82°C to reduce the fermentability of the wort by favouring the short (but efficient) life span of the alpha amylase enzyme and produce a wort with higher molecular weight sugars (maltotriose, dextrins, B-Glucans etc.) Rather than have them broken down into more fermentable sugars (maltose, glucose, sucrose, fructose etc.). By doing this I can increase body and mouthfeel, while limiting my conversion, creating a lower OG, and lowering my rate of attenuation, thus making a lower abv beer.

And pasturising the AA enzymes @@UltraLowbrewing ??

@andrewbayley1689 they do become denatured at this heat, but they are still active on a rapidly descending scale, so for the first 15-20, you'll still get some conversion happening. The Beta Amylase, on the other hand is completely inactivated at these temperatures.

Thank you!!! I'll be sure to keep posting :) NA beers are such a great style to make.

Sure thing, the low grain bill = low OG, so that's the starting point, then I coarsely mill the grain to reduce my efficiency, combined with a high mash temperature of 80C for 30 minutes, favoring the alpha amylase range to produce a higher dextrin and maltotriose sugar beer with less glucose and maltose production. I love the M54, such a great choice for quick and easy lagers with minimal effort, and it taste great! If you're aiming for some great mid-strength beers, try dropping some of your base malt in favor for some more spec grain and/or adjuncts such as flaked oats/barley/wheat to increase body and mouthfeel. Also try raising your mash temperature up to around 72-76C and reduce your mash time, this will slow down the conversion of complex sugars into simple sugars such maltose and glucose.

Thanks Andy! We appreciate the great feedback. we'll certainly be investigating plenty of styles as time goes on!

Thank you for the kind words! I'll be sure to add some more tasting notes in the coming videos :)

Thank you! As simple and basic as this style is, it's easily one of my favourites and completely under rated.

No worries. Good luck with it !