Chevy Colorado / GMC Canyon, Transmission, Transfer Case, & Differential Service. (The Shudder Fix)
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- Опубліковано 3 лип 2024
- Chevy Colorado / GMC Canyon 45K Mile Transmission, Transfer Case, & Axle Service. In this video we are going to do the 45k mile "severe" service on my 2017 Colorado. Under ordinarily driving conditions this maintenance is due at about 90k miles. I'm doing this service earlier than what is required because maintenance is far cheaper than replacing parts. Also, the shift quality in my 6L50 transmission has started to decline slightly. This service made the transmission shift better than when it was new.
This video is going to cover, how to change the transmission fluid & filter on both the 8 speed transmission ( 8L45 )and the 6 speed ( 6L50 ) transmission found in both the gasoline and diesel Colorado and Canyon. The transmission fluid that I used is the updated TSB replacement fluid to help fix the torque converter shutter problems. We are also going to change the fluid in the transfer case, as well as both differentials.
Parts and fluids:
Transmission "shudder fix" Fluid (Case of 6): amzn.to/3WqA0Pe
Transmission "shudder fix" Fluid (Single QT): amzn.to/3YPza0k
Transmission Filter 6 Speed ( 6L50 ): amzn.to/3PRQygE
Transmission Filter 8 Speed ( 8L45 ): amzn.to/3FSzrqs
Transfer Case Fluid: amzn.to/3VnM5Dy
(The Mobil transmission fluid works as well but this is far cheaper per QT)
Gear Oil: amzn.to/3I5uvkL
Tools used for this service:
Fluid Pump: amzn.to/3FWIfLW
Extended Transmission Drain Pan: amzn.to/3C0mLgi
"No Splatter" pad for transmission drain pan: amzn.to/3C2EIup
My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek
Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
I source all of my service data from the same place that professional shops do. You can as well: www.pntrac.com/t/SENKSUZKRktD...
Questions? Shoot me an email at repairgeek365@gmail.com
00:00 Intro
00:17 What truck am I working on specifically?
00:48 Why I'm changing fluids so early
1:22 Products used and quantities required
5:36 Rear differential service
9:15 Front differential service
11:55 Transfer case service
15:26 Removing the transmission pan
22:16 Cleaning out the pan
23:26 Changing the transmission filter
24:58 Installing the transmission pan
25:36 Filling the transmission
27:53 Why I changed the fluid in the pan 2x
29:17 How to set the fluid level correctly
30:50 Final Thoughts
31:38 Outro
Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user Repair Geek makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. Repair Geek shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by Repair Geek and therefore, Repair Geek does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge Repair Geek or anyone affiliated with Repair Geek, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law. - Авто та транспорт
![[HOW TO] 8L45 - 8 Speed Transmission Fluid & Filter Change for 2017-2022 Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bjKnVjXaGOo/mqdefault.jpg)
Parts and fluids:
Transmission "shudder fix" Fluid (Case of 6): amzn.to/3WqA0Pe
Transmission "shudder fix" Fluid (Single QT): amzn.to/3YPza0k
Transmission Filter 6 Speed ( 6L50 ): amzn.to/3PRQygE
Transmission Filter 8 Speed ( 8L45 ): amzn.to/3FSzrqs
Transfer Case Fluid: amzn.to/3VnM5Dy
(The Mobil transmission fluid works as well but this is far cheaper per QT)
Gear Oil: amzn.to/3I5uvkL
Tools used for this service:
Fluid Pump: amzn.to/3FWIfLW
Extended Transmission Drain Pan: amzn.to/3C0mLgi
"No Splatter" pad for transmission drain pan: amzn.to/3C2EIup
My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek
Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
since I've been researching the trans fluid/filter replacement procedure on my '17 Colorado diesel, the YT 'algos' recommended your video! and fully glad it did! thank you!
Thanks for these videos. I changed my fuel filters on my Canyon diesel after your other video now I know how to do the fluids. Thanks!
Good video, well done. I have the Canyon version of yours, same engine and the 6L50 transmission. I used Amsoil for everything, maybe a little more pricey but 6x more wear protection than even Mobil1. I bought a pump to get the fluid out of the transmission and only had about half a liter left in the pan that I couldn't get out, much less mess when taking the pan off.
Excellent video. Thanks for taking the time to make it and showing all fluid exchanges in detail.
You did an amazing job explaining each phase and clear video with instructions.
Thank you so much for this great video. I have GMC of same version and now I feel super confident I can care for it the right way. Saving this video.
As most weekend warriors, I dont have access to a lift so the harbor freight hand pump is a cleaner safer option then spilling fluid all over my floor. This was a great tool of knowledge. Thanks!
Great how to for us Colorado guys, thanks!
Great Video. You explain the steps really well. Thank you.
Great shudder fix info.
Dang very very good video!! Merry Christmas to you and your family !! Thanks for sharing. Really enjoy your videos !!
I have the 2.8L Duramax 6speed. It started to shudder around 45 MPH. Replaced tranny fluid with the mobile 1 along with the filter and the shudder went away immediately! Crazy how fluid can have such an effect.
excellent video. love how detailed you were doing these services on your truck. I have a 2017 diesel Colorado as well. I am currently setting at about 259k miles on the odometer and gonna be doing the timing belt soon, but I haven't changed the transmission fluid to what you went with and I have experienced what you are talking about for the past 150k miles. The next time I do a trans service I will give that a shot.
What a great video! So in depth and knowledgeable! Thank you for all you do!
I switched my transmission fluid on this diesel with Amsoil. It shifts so smooth now.
Great video, I was going to take my ZR2 in to get this service, but after getting the price I think I'll just do it myself :) Thankfully everything looks cut and dry.
Great video buddy. Keep up the superb job
Dude, you’re awesome! Thank you for the video
Had the shudder. I used Amsoil fluids to service transfer case, transmission, and front and rear diffs. Pricey, but I definitely would recommend. Only problems I've had with my truck since service are emissions related.
I have 2019 3.6 with 40k, after watching your video, I'm waiting to 50k, I may have dealer do tran filter not looking forward to dropping exhaust.. I'll be on my back.. 👍 great truck The only problem I had was with the power steering under warranty
Outstanding video , TY
Great info!!
Thanks for a great video
Great how to! Thank you
Great video. Thank you
Great video .Thanks..
Great review I have a 2020 colorado z71 4x4
Very good. Thank you
I know my comment here is a bit late to the game, but I finally got a chance to add some LubeGuard to my 6L50 tranny (2016 Z-71 Diesel) with over 185K miles on it. I added it last night and drove all day today from Northern Virginia to Atlanta, and I have not had ONE shudder! I have no idea how long this will last, but I certainly did not expect it to work so fast. Many videos I have seen on this report an improvement but not usually an outright elimination of the issue. As I said, we shall see how long this lasts. Good thing I bought a big bottle of the stuff!
Right on!
They make an aftermarket transmission dipstick for those trucks. Will make servicing them much easier.
Where can you buy that dip stick and how do you install ?
Link?
That's sad that it's needed 😢
3 words…Instant Shudder Fix. Added 2 tubes directly into relatively clean fluid (20k since last change) and completely got rid of the shudder. 2018 GMC Canyon w/88k miles. A $20 fix (2 - 2oz tubes) Couldn’t be happier!
Two tubes of what? The shutter drives me crazy. The dealer changed the fluid at about 55k but it’s still there.
Thanks!
Appreciate it. Thanks!
Great video! Thank you for this. Quick question, if you have a level kit on the front will this change the level for the transmission? On a level surface the rake would be different so I would assume too much would drain out.
Also would keeping a little more transmission fluid in the pan be bad for day to day operation??
Mine - fortunately- was still under warranty and a trans flush fixed it.
Great video! If at all possible, can you do a Honda 9 speed (ZF 9 Speed)... they had them in Passports, Odyssey's and Pilots (some). I know you did a Honda video on timing belt not too long ago. Hoping that vehicle has a 9 speed and could use a trans-fluid change? I wish 2 things all manufacturer's did... 1. Put drain and fill plugs on serviceable items. 2. Use bigger pans so you don't have to rely on "trans temps" to check fluid.
If I run across one I'll film it. I don't own one so it probably isn't going to happen anytime soon.
My GMC Canyon has now been in the dealer shop for a week. They had to pull out the transmission to replace the torque converter . What a engineering nightmare, the truck runs terrible and I’m looking forward to getting ride of it and leaving the American auto industry for good!
I'm currently looking at getting another (slightly used) Mid sized truck.
I'm looking at 2019 to 2020 Chevrolet Colorado and Nissan Frontiers.
What year and mileage is your truck?
I'm hearing alot of negative information on GM's transmission torque converters.
Thank you
@@johnlopez3001 highly recommend looking into another brand other then GMC of Chevy way to many transmission issues and they don’t want to fix it because it’s a big job
Really top of the line video, I wish I had a lift like that to fix my 8 speed tranny. So am I understanding correctly that I will have to change the ATF at least twice to fix the ungodly shifts in my 8 speed?
Tremendous service to all the Colorado/Canyon owners with the Duramax. I have a 2016 Canyon with the 2.8L. It had around 25K miles on it. It just turned over 70K. It’s never given me an ounce of trouble. I’m going to get the owners manual out and check the maintenance schedule for all the other fluids. I’m going to have the engine oil changed in February. I want to be up to speed when the time comes. Do you follow GM‘s recommendations for fluid change intervals yourself? Thank you!
This video is perfect! not even GMC could have done t better. That said, I only have one question; What is the torque for the level bolt? Thanks
Ya know you should look at RAT540 engineering blog for motor and gear oil wear ranking test. In a nutshell, Mobil1 Synthetic ATF Multi Vehicle Formula (grey bottle black label) performed even better than Amsoil SS and OE lines of ATF. Also his #1 rec engine oil for all liquid cooled engines is Quaker State Full Synthetic 5W30 (NOT Ultimate Durability). Just wish he tested the LV version of Mobil1 Synthetic ATF…
We'll done geek good job so mobile is good oil
I had same problem with transmission it was low on fluid after the service the secound time i did it it was a processes 7 qts and alot of time
Can you explain how to check fluid level again? Over fill it and drain it, do I remove the drain bolt and stop once it’s stop dripping for a V6? Is the level bolt the same as the drain bolt (plug)
How many Quarts for the transmision and the transfer case?
What kind of tool do you use to remove the bolt for rear and front differential?
No flush?
What about the old fluid in the converter and radiator?
Hi coming in kind of late to this what is the shudder is it when your turning on an apex of a corner and it feels like the engine or something is pulsing or a lack of gas getting to the engine and would it cause the engine to ping.
New to the channel I have a 2016 chevy Colorado have had any issues with the stereo
if i add the full 7 quarts why do i have to drain it till its level what would it hurt if i dont drain it to lvl to me leaving in that extra small amount of fluid wouldn't do anything except find its way around the trans
Hey mate my rubber seal is abit damaged from trying to remove it but I gave up and just installed the new filter and now im depressed because I’ve ruined the rubber. But its been 2 days but no issues yet. Will I be able to last until my next service? Thanks in advance.
Does this video show how to remove transmission of the 4x4 model?
I had a 2020 Colorado that the dealer couldn't fix the transmission shuttering problem. They bought it back at 16k miles. No more Chevrolets for me.
What's the torque for the trans pan?
I have a 8speed 2020 canyon about to hit 50k miles i do notice a slight jerk at cold at cold starts and goes away when drive it for a while is it time for Transmission fluid change?
Thank you for the video.. I have a 4 cylinder gas does it have the same 6 speed transmission ?
You should already know that.. How the hell do you own a truck and not know what transmission it has 😂. Go buy a Tesla.
I still haven't gotten used to diff fluid and friction modifier..ugh that smells the worst.
Excellent VID. Unfortunately this GMC /Canyon I have with this trans and is a disastrous tranny design. Enough said. One note: many do the same process when dealing with torque fluid. Next time, with the truck in the air, turn it on. Leave in park, it will engage the TQ and spin out the old fluid through the open filter pan into your pan. NO damage will occur. It last for less than a minute. Then when you fill you avoid the added process and will not contaminate the new fluid. BTW, that fluid you drained was perfect. But like you said, better to change fluid then trans. Do you know that BMW X5/5speeds were French built GM trans? Ask me how I know.
Don't start the truck with the pan removed. You will destroy the pump in the transmission.
@@RepairGeekhow can you get all of the fluid out of the torque converter thx
Would a leveled/lifted truck affect pan angle much? Or do I have to lift the rear to compensate for factory rake?
Usually tilt the axel towards the output shaft of trans case. The make angled shims
Update - post fluid change: ‘19 ZR2 with 6-speed did not have the drain plug on the rear diff (which we knew) but the front diff thankfully did.
How does it shift with the non blue label fluid?
@@RepairGeek Well...my Amazon order history showed a black label box but my garage floor revealed a blue label box had been delivered. I guess it changed colors whilst it waited on me a month later lol.
On a different note, I was not able to use the 7th quart. Not sure why. My driveway is not level, so I drove on ramps to level the frame and I had fluid draining once I opened the plug (6 qts, truck running and at temp). Thoughts?
Weird... Mine definitely should have had more than 6 in it. Did you change the filter?
@@RepairGeek I did. Put in close to the full 6 quarts after refilling. Drove to get it to temp and then checked. Opening the plug allowed a steady amount to come out…Still confused and a little nervous 😬
As you saw in the video I checked mine at ride height with the truck on the ground. No idea if that's how yours was done. If it's real low it will be delayed going from Park to Drive or Drive to Reverse. If you got fluid out of the level bolt with the engine running and it's not shifting weird... I'd just run it.
Thanks for the video. Going to be making these fluid changes now with 142,000 miles. I am having Diesel Exhaust Filter issues. Have you done any repairs on the exhaust filter or any sensors yet? I think I will be replacing my exhaust filter…
I haven't had to touch it yet. 😅
@@RepairGeek my exhaust filter started acting up in February and the dealer spent $1,500 trying to get it to work (new sensors, forced regen) and couldn’t. Now, I blow black smoke (with heavy acceleration) and need it fixed by Sept (registration and emissions). Dealer wants $3,000 to replace it :(
any updates?
I just did my diffs & transfer case fluids at 30 000, and wish I had of done it at 10 000. Came out so full of metal dust that the fluids were grey.
Same with my transfer case on a Mazda. The diff didn't seem too bad though. From now on I'm draining and filling the transfer case, but probably also diff and transmission very early on a new car.
Hey this comment is completely unrelated to this video, but I was wondering if I don’t have access to an air compressor will the aerosol cans of wool wax work just as well for undercoating my truck?
Yep.
I have a 2016 Colorado with the V6 with 70k miles. How important is it to replace the filter and clean the magnet? I am considering just pulling the fluid out with a vacuum pump instead of dropping the pan and then filling as normal. Great video. Thanks.
I would pull the pan and change the filter. Thats like taking a shower and putting on your old socks haha.
I did a fluid swap on my 2016 3.6.no filter was around 50k.at 100k I will change filter this time.no problem here just throwing it out there with my experience. Hope this helps.
So I have the '16 Colorado. Exact same as yours except mine is the Z71 trim. But I got mine used and it currently has approximately 230k on the odometer. No idea if any fluids other than oil has been changed. Ya'll think I need it change them or just beat to leave them alone?
Change your rear diff at the very least.
Bring your transmission up to temp and unscrew the plug...let some drain out and check it. Worst case you're good and only need to add a little back in
Can you describe the transmission shudder you refer to in the video? I have an odd feeling in my transmission when I try to maintain 50 to 51 mph. I'm wondering if that's what you're referring to.
It feels like your driving thru constant rumble strips that they put on the side of roads.
@Hoggywartz007 the feeling I was getting was more like a hiccup as I deccelerated and attempted to maintain a speep between 49 and 51 mph.
How's that fluid working in your trans? I have a '20 Z71 4wd 2.8l currently @ 40K and am curious for your feedback. Thanks!! BTW - how much will a two inch front/ one inch rear lift affect trans services? In your opinion....
Still shifting smooth. No complaints.
@@RepairGeek thanks again for your knowledge. I have worked on all my vehicles before but this being my first diesel was a bit hesitant. But now... Thanks again!!
I'm in Australia, and I have a 2014 Colorado 2.8, and it has the 6L50e transmission and no DPF or DEF fluid. No shuddering, I have 200,000km
What is a shudder??
Is there a way to add a transmission dip stick to this tranny?
Can you be sure the Dealer will do as good of a job as you have?
How do you know transmission fluid temp? Do you just take an IR reading off the pan? Or did the cluster tell you?
Read it on the cluster. Don't IR the pan. It may not be accurate depending on where the sensor is located.
How do you access the temp in the cluster?
ON MY 2015 @@rocknral oN MY 2015 YOU SCROLL THROUGH THE MENU ON THE LEFT HAND STAlk
24:25 this is exactly what I did, way too hard to get it out.
I can't seem to find the proper gear oil for the rear axle with the G80 locking rear differential. An oil is needed that doesn't have a "limited slip friction modifier", which I've had zero sucess in finding. My 2017 Z71 has the G80.
The ZR2 rear axle probably uses a different oil since it has a different style locker.
You can buy it from rock auto. I ordered some a couple weeks ago and came in like 2-3 days
AC Delco 104108
@@RepairGeek you do not want a friction modifier with a G80. It will cause it to lock up pre maturity.
@@Bpf1893 yep my mistake. Just checked my owners manual. Removed the modifier. Wasn't sure about the G80...
@@RepairGeek All good, thanks for the video. Going to be Huge help for doing the trans.
Did you change the timing belt in the Diesel at a hundred thousand miles like recommended.
Manual calls for it at 150k miles
I bought the same Mobil1 transmission oil, but the black label. I've since read they updated the formula to the blue label. I can't return it, should I just take the hit and buy the blue label stuff?
I can only give you feedback on what I've used. The blue label stuff works great. Without trying them both I can't tell you one way or the other.
@@RepairGeek To keep it short, I didn't mention before that I did a fluid swap without dropping the pan about 1k miles ago. I plan to drop the pan and replace the filter now that it's been driven with new fluid. I used the black label stuff before and noticed an immediate improvement in shifts (as you described). Its since then that I read about the Blue Label bottle but had already purchased a case of black label :(
I have a 2017 Canyon v6 with the 8 speed. Having the 8 speed, I have done a lot of research on the shutter problem. At first the problem was thought to be an additive problem. The black label Mobile 1 was developed to fix that but it was found that it was not a 100% fix. The Mobile 1 engineers determined another issue was the 8 speed’s total lack of tolerance for any moisture in the fluid. The blue label fluid was developed to have very low moisture absorbing qualities. Based on the production date of my Canyon, it should have come with the black label fluid. I live in the desert and have never experienced any problems. I have to think that if I lived in an area of high humidity, things may have been different. My Canyon is not driven a lot, but when it hits 50k it will have the blue label fluid. Hopefully then the fear of shutter issues will be a bad memory.
That stuff didn't help my 8 speed Transmission now it's sitting at a storage slot waiting for the lawyers to get done with it.
I have a 2016 Colorado 2wd. It has 97k and I have never changed any of the fluids you are changing in the video. Is it safe for me to change it now or just leave it alone? I hear if you have a lot of miles and never change the fluid to just leave it alone cause the tranny could start slipping. What should I do?
Bought a baby Duramax with 90k miles.
Two weeks after I purchased it I changed the transmission fluid and filter. Glad I did, it was sour. Once completed I could tell a difference with the Mobil fluid. Much smoother. Since the fluid was so dark I ended up taking 2 more quartz out after about 5k miles. Fluid looked good but a bit cloudy. Checked again and it was good as new. I also noticed my transmission temp dropped considerably. Sits around 170 degrees in the summer now.
Change you're rear diff. Mine was silver. Same drill, change it twice. The second time I took the cap off and cleaned the hell out of it.
Truck is running great. Have 120kish miles on it now.
You let the transmission on N or P to check the level??
P
i wonder why it took so long for makers to put drain plugs in these parts....of course, they probably wanted no plug so you could inspect gears and things but it sure is easier and no gaskets and sealers needed
I wish my 21 ZR2 had a drain plug on the rear differential.
how do you change the fluid in the transmission converter???
Drive a few hundred miles and change the fluid again.
You should be able to get it flushed if you wanted to change all of it at once
You could always just drop the pan change the filter then overfill the transmission with 8 quarts.
And then disconnect the output line on the transmission cooler connect a piece of hose to the cooler and disconnected line and run the engine until you see cherry red fluid. Then reconnect the cooler line and add back what you drained out. Then run the transmission up to temp and set the level.
Then repeat as necessary.
Doing this will get all of the old fluid out of both the cooler and the torque converter and it won’t mix in with your new fresh fluid as much.
What is a fair price for a shop or dealership to do this work?
Free if you tell them it sounds like you are driving over rumble strips. GM,s service manual tells them to not even ask questions if the customer talks about rumble strip sounds
Looked like water in the gear oil.
Did you do research on the Lucas ? It's not very good . I've always been supportive of your videos but not on the Lucas decision, hope you have a happy holiday 👍
I did some. Here's an excellent article on diff oils from a company that actually reman's axles:
eastcoastgearsupply.com/ft-2536-ecgs-gear-oil-recommendation.html
ECGS has a great reputation for quality work. I’d trust their recommendations.
@@RepairGeek ok I'll read it thanks . Myself I use Amsoil .
@@kenj.8897 Nothing wrong with that stuff at all. Just a little pricey for me. Merry Christmas.
@@RepairGeek Another question, like you and because of you I'm a Surface Shield fan . I use old clothes of coarse when doing it , but what in the hell do you use to wash it off . I have tried adding some liquid dish soap with laundry detergent and still won't come off shirts and pants . Lol
You must drive your truck super hard to be changing fluids ! so early ! fluids get hot when driven hard !
What a stupid place for that transmission drain plug. It’s not at the lowest point of the pan. 😂
It is not a drain plug. It is the location for checking the fluid level. Level Check hole.
Don’t put 75w-140 in there 🤦
Why?
Yeah, why?? I see no problem with that at all.
Why is your undercarriage all full of oil ? Bad seal !
I have a 2020 colorado, last month 26,700km, it's appear in a transmission shudder at 80km/h,
I'd like to sell this fuking truck
Wow why shudder so early ?
OK for a noob but before you make another video you should watch some videos about how lubricants actually work. You are NOT "stepping up" by using thicker gear oil. If the mfg. specifies 75-90 then that is what you need to use. The thicker viscosity is for a different temp operating range and different clearances. It does not offer a better film strength it is just for a different application. When designing a mechanical system you also design the clearances and materials for a certain lubricant and operating range. You also design the hydrodynamics of the internal flow of lubricant. In some cases the thicker oil can be a detriment because it doesn't flow properly and instead of constantly resupplying the friction surface with new protection it backs up or can flow around where it is needed. It is a disservice to tell people that thicker oil offers more protection. This is a lie. You need to stop injecting your ignorance into the public.
Okay well make sure you let the people that rebuild differentials for a living know about your "expertise" as well:
eastcoastgearsupply.com/ft-2536-ecgs-gear-oil-recommendation.html
Show me 1 example of an automotive differential failure directly correlated with using a 75-140 instead of 80-90.
I'll wait.........
Apparently humiliation is preferable to education. How many examples do you want? Tremex will void your warrantee if you use anything thicker than ATF in their transmissions because it starves the bearings of oil. The Porsche 944 engine will lose the #2 main bearing if you use thick oil as it doesn’t make the sharp bend in the oil gallery. The V8 in the M3 will chew up the rod bearings if you use thicker oil than recommended because of the tight clearances. Want more? Just watch “customer states” videos. Lots of videos where knuckle dragging wannabe mechanics thought they were smarter than the design engineers.
I’ll dumb it down for you. A splash lubricant system relies in a phenomenon called replenishment. Imagin a gear tooth dipping in a puddle of oil. It pushes the oil out of the way. It takes time for the lube to flow back for the next tooth. The faster the teeth pass the puddle the sooner the next tooth presents itself to the puddle leaving less time for the oil to replenish. The thicker the oil the slower it replenishes this actually reduces the amount of oil on the surface. At 60 mph the axle spins at a little over 800 RPM. Approximately 30 teeth on a ring gear. 24000 teeth per minute. This means the oil has .0025 seconds to replenish. That’s why engineers spec thinner oil and doofus shade tree wrench turners don’t consider this so they think thicker is better. There are more things in play but I’ll leave it at that. BTW: 75-140 oil is for applications that run hotter so they don’t suffer from over thinning as they get hot. It’s for temperature not better surface film strength which is what you really want in a hypoid gear. In fact a GL5 90 wt. has a better surface film than a GL4 140. One final note is that ALL oils are based on the lower viscosity rating for their base. They use additives to reduce thinning at higher temps. That means that the 75-90 and the 75-140 are the same base product. They just have different additives to keep them from thinning out at higher temps. Same with motor oil. If you want to be helpful in your videos you should recommend the factory specified products instead of your “opinions”. The brand isn’t as important the specs.
Also coating suspension parts with undercoating is especially stupid. It creates an impermeable bowl that traps moisture. Even if by some miracle you gave it a perfect coating on top it will crack for expansion and contraction. Moisture will get sucked in when it cools and cannot escape. Years from now when the undercoating comes off you will find moisture and rust under it. I restore muscle cars from the ’60 and ‘70s. When I remove the undercoating there is always rust underneath. A good primer and paint offers much better protection.
@@RepairGeek
Let's try this again... Show me 1 example of an automotive *DIFFERENTIAL* failure directly correlated with using a 75-140 instead of 80-90. Because you never answered the question haha. "That’s why engineers spec thinner oil" Yep I'm sure it has nothing to do with CAFE standards and additional drag due to viscosity. Rubicon Wranglers use the same diff and spec a 75W-140. Just FYI.
"A good primer and paint offers much better protection" Yeah because so many people drive restored muscle cars though a foot of snow...
I have 6 years of video documented results from using lanolin undercoating on this channel. You're talking about rubberized undercoating that dries. It's impossible for a coating that never dries to chip, flake, or peel. Primers and paints require prep work. I've tested those as well and POR15 is garbage the videos are on the channel. The lanolin products I use on a daily driver requires no prep, no masking, no drying. The vehicle can be treated in about an hour once a year. So 50 hours of paint labor gives 10-20 years of protection. 50 hours of lanolin labor yields 50 years of protection. Would I want a restored car covered in it? Nope but, it works excellent on a daily.
LOL! Are you really that obtuse? You mean do I have an example of a diff exploding in flames because the wrong fluid was used? That is a really stupid question. Using the wrong fluids manifest themselves in premature wear, excessive fuel consumption sludge buildup and etc. You ignored my recommendation to watch the "Customer states" videos. Lots of examples of well meaning DIYers looking to hacks like you for guidance. Derp. 140 is a "step up" from 90. Derp. Spray your suspension with undercoat to protect components that heat cycle even though it is not made for that. Show me one differential that lasted longer because you used the wrong heat range lube. I'll even answer this one for you. If you extensively tow in hot climates the 140 would be a better choice. Like I said originally... You need to learn a LOT more about lubes before makeing more derpy videos.
@@RepairGeek
"Show me one differential that lasted longer because you used the wrong heat range lube." I linked lube information from a VERY reputable diff shop 3 comments ago. 🙄
Go argue with them. We're done here...
Thanks!
Greatly appreciated. Thanks!