Great video! Thank you for showing me how to fix the transmission. I went from a very very noticeable clicking to no clicking whatsoever. I appreciate you good sir!
Awesome thanks for letting us know that's how we keep our rigs going,people like you sharing and taking time to make a great video with great information
Thank you so much for sharing the clicking fix for the trx-4 sport. My rig, trx-4 sport, still plastic housing, one gear, had the same problem after around 6 months. Solved the problem just as you described with in total 6x 5x8x0.1mm shims.
Thank you for this video. I like your detailed explanation. I did a first attempt at Shimming but still had the click. Added 0,2mm more shims and now the click is gone. Thanks 😊👍🏻
You da man! Had the same problem with a Vanquish transmission and that small amount of play with the pin inside the gears was it! Thanks for all your hard work!
Great to hear you were able to solve it in your Vanquish trans. This style of pin driven, slip fit transmission gear is very common across many RCs. So this method of shimming to reduce side gear clearance could reduce clicking noise in those as well.
Thanks! I didn't exactly followed your instructions because I found there was already a washer in the short shaft you showed (still has some play but a bit less than yours), it was an RTR Sport so maybe recently Traxxas added some washers from factory. What I had was a lot of play in the Spur shaft, and there I added a washer behind the locker shaft. That, and new grease in all the gears brought and absolutely silent and smooth tranny now! Thanks for your video, it really helped me identify the issues!
Damn, I have just de-assembled, greased, assembled and mounted the gearbox. After that, I'm relaxing on the couch and watching this. Now I have to take it all apart again to make sure I don't have that grinding 😂 I have a trx-6 and it of cause have two gears, so it is a little different. But will still have to see if it has this grinding 🙂 Thanks for the tip 👍🙂
JUST SUBBED TO UR CHANNEL,,GREAT VIDEO MY GUY,I LITERALLY JUST GOT THE TRX4 SPORT UNASSEMBLED KIT FROM MY WIFE FOR CHRISTMAS,AND IRONICALLY I ORDERED 2 SETS OF TRAXXAS #1985 2 WEEKS AGO TO SHIM THE SMALL DRIVESHAFT IN THE GEN8 TRANSFER CASE,SO THOSE SHIMS BY TRAXXAS ARE ON MY WORKBENCH,GREAT EXPLAINING IN THE DETAIL AND WHEN I START MY BUILD IM MOST DEFINITELY DOING THIS TO THE PLAY AREA,THANKS MAN!🤜🤛👍
Awesome fix ... I already ordered all the shims to crack down on it, but hear me out. ( maybe a stupid idea ). Drill a 2-3mm hole in the end of the deep case where the shaft has play. Put a screw in to push the shaft forward. BAM ... adjustable. Not sure on the longevity of the threads in the plastic.
Very good approach! Thanks for your share. There is one question. Can I know the reason why the shims outside need? If the inside shim assembled with supporter, this clearance causing clicking can be eliminated, I think. The outside shims are for preventing deformation of pin in advance?
Due to the direction of the shaft pin pockets in the gears, the shims are required on both sides to reduce the shaft movement/clearance. If only skimmed one side, the shaft can still shift within the gears and clicking/noise can still occur.
I used the Arrma shims because they are thinner than the Traxxas shims and I had them on-hand. A better choice would be to get the Yokomo set to have multiple thicknesses to choose from.
I see more and more people using drills to do maintenance on thier RC's. In my thirty years of the hobby I've tried every different type of driver you can imagine. I've set the clutches and speeds on the lowest settings possible. My findings have always been that the plastics on 90% of RC's are heated and thread damaged by anything other than a manual hex driver. Thier were a few cases of Factory team AE plastics and Team Losi plastics held up better using a powered driver. To the naked eye the damage is not noticeable, but under magnification you can see the damage get progressively worse around 10 to 12 cycles of in and out. At around 12 to 15 cycles I found that most threads were almost completely gone, and the screws would generally not tighten fully anymore. The high end racers would last a bit longer around 30 cycles in and out. I have found that if you use a manual hex driver the plastics will generally last 200 to 300 cycles if you take care to not overtighten the screws. I have a Tamiya grasshopper, a Golden Arrow, and a Stampede that has a mechanical ESC that are original and still have good threads in the plastics I'm not trying be ignorant or judging you in anyway. I just want to know if the Plastics may have changed in the last five years ago or so. So much that I may need to run this test again on some of my newer Traxxas vehicles. It sure would make maintenance easier to just hook my bits up to my power drill and zip them in and out. I definitely don't want a bunch of ruined plastics though, as I do methodical and regular maintenance on all my vehicles.
Thanks. I’ve had no issues with the driver I use. If you were to make a video detailing your experiment and findings I’m sure there would be a lot of people interested in those results.
Hi just got this clicking noise. Very helpful thanks for this. What would happen If I ignore the clicking noise? Would it grind down the transfer case housing groove/pocket all the way in? Thanks
I don’t know what the long term affect is so I can’t for sure...but I don’t think anything detrimental would happen if you ignore it. It would only wear away as much material as the clearance allows and I suspect the clicking would be worse as that clearance increases from wear.
Odd issue! I wonder if this is also an issue on the 2 speed variant. I just bought a Defender so I'm curious if it's an issue that may have been fixed in a revision.
It seems to be a single speed issue only based on my searching when I first noticed the issue. However I know if I had a two speed that was clicking, the first thing I would check is endplay/clearance stack up.
Check the links in the description. Due to production variation I can’t say exactly how many to use in each location. You’ll need to check the endplay and adjust. For me using the Traxxas shims on the three gear side would not have worked out so that’s why I used clutch shims which are thinner.
HEY BROTHER,,I HAVE THE TRAXXAS SHIMS PART#1985 WHICH ARE THE ''5X8 0.5MM'' CAN I USE THESE ON THE 3 GEAR TRANSFER SIDE??? OR THE OTHER OPPOSITE END SIDE?? OR SHOULD I ORDER THE LINK DESCRIPTION YOKOMO SHIMS FROM AMAN AND USE THERE ''5X8 O.25MM''??I ASK BC I HAVE ABOUT 30 OF THE TRAXXAS SHIMS,BUT I HAVE NO PROBLEM ORDERING WHAT U MESSAGE ME TO MY FRIEND!! ANY FEEDBACK IS SO GREATLY APPRECIATED THANK YOU🤜🤛
I would go ahead and order the thinner shim set just so you have them on hand. I can’t say for sure which side either due to manufacturing tolerances, each kit could be different. But the same approach can be used to “dry-fit” the cases with the shaft, gear, spacer, & select the appropriate shims to fine tune the end play. Thanks for the support!
@@Forker45 I'm just gonna order the arrma shims that you have, and you had put 1x on the opposite side, there under $3.00 bucks,and order the YOKOMO SHIMS that were in the description that you used the 4x of them on the 3 gear side, and then just process of elimination the rest maybe I might need four as well or three,but having them,is better than not having them,thank you so much brother,and happy New years to you and your family🤜🤛
Well this is my first time on completely building the TRX4 and now I just found out that I have no power to the rear output shaft and there’s a loud noticeable clicking from the transmission so what am I looking for when I open the transmission to fix this situation? Btw great work on these videos !
It’s most likely in that 3 gear area of the transfer case if you have power to one but not the other. I’d recommend going back through the manual and disassembling to see if you missed a drive pin or have something in wrong orientation.
No he's explaining his process into finding his solution, which is invaluable as it gives proof to his fix as well as showing the viewer if this is the same problem or not
this video is not 100% correct, but it's not false either. I have an aluminium transmission case, where I do not have that problem which you have in this video, but nevertheless, it's still clicking!! the problem is, this little pins are TOO SHORT in the gearwheel pocket and moving around while driving, and that is your clicking sound! you'll need thick silicone oil (90.000 cst and more), just fill it in the gearwheel pocket and then this little pin will stop moving around and making clicking sounds
It sounds like your problem & solution could be unique to an aluminum case and quite possibly a different root cause of noise. I’m confident the solution I presented will resolve single speed Sport trans clicking as shown in the video. Thanks for the comment, I’m glad you were able to solve your issue.
Great video! Thank you for showing me how to fix the transmission. I went from a very very noticeable clicking to no clicking whatsoever. I appreciate you good sir!
Glad it helped!
Awesome thanks for letting us know that's how we keep our rigs going,people like you sharing and taking time to make a great video with great information
Thanks! Hopefully it’s helpful for anyone else that has the clicking noise like I did. 👍🏽
Thank you so much for sharing the clicking fix for the trx-4 sport. My rig, trx-4 sport, still plastic housing, one gear, had the same problem after around 6 months. Solved the problem just as you described with in total 6x 5x8x0.1mm shims.
That’s great to hear that it helped you out! Thanks for sharing.
My rig runs so smooth now, it completely removed the clicking, thanks for this video 👍
Thank you for this video. I like your detailed explanation. I did a first attempt at Shimming but still had the click. Added 0,2mm more shims and now the click is gone. Thanks 😊👍🏻
You da man! Had the same problem with a Vanquish transmission and that small amount of play with the pin inside the gears was it! Thanks for all your hard work!
Great to hear you were able to solve it in your Vanquish trans. This style of pin driven, slip fit transmission gear is very common across many RCs. So this method of shimming to reduce side gear clearance could reduce clicking noise in those as well.
This is the best video. Thanks for taking some time to explain
Thanks! I didn't exactly followed your instructions because I found there was already a washer in the short shaft you showed (still has some play but a bit less than yours), it was an RTR Sport so maybe recently Traxxas added some washers from factory. What I had was a lot of play in the Spur shaft, and there I added a washer behind the locker shaft. That, and new grease in all the gears brought and absolutely silent and smooth tranny now! Thanks for your video, it really helped me identify the issues!
So glad I as able to help! Thanks for the feedback maybe it can help someone else. 👍🏽
Awesome video! I just ordered the shims. Thank you
Thank you so much for posting the video on that clicking sound🤔 and how to fix ...thank you 👍👍👍👍👍
Glad to hear the video was useful! 👍🏽
Damn, I have just de-assembled, greased, assembled and mounted the gearbox.
After that, I'm relaxing on the couch and watching this. Now I have to take it all apart again to make sure I don't have that grinding 😂 I have a trx-6 and it of cause have two gears, so it is a little different. But will still have to see if it has this grinding 🙂
Thanks for the tip 👍🙂
Well I wouldn’t go tearing it apart if it sounds ok. I am glad you appreciate my effort though! 👍🏽
@@Forker45 thanks, but now I'm curious to see if mine also have this grinding 🙂
Nice !!! Fixed mine my gosh it’s smooth as butter now !!!!! Thanks bro !!!
Thats great to hear! Thanks for the feedback.
Hell you've got my vote dude!
JUST SUBBED TO UR CHANNEL,,GREAT VIDEO MY GUY,I LITERALLY JUST GOT THE TRX4 SPORT UNASSEMBLED KIT FROM MY WIFE FOR CHRISTMAS,AND IRONICALLY I ORDERED 2 SETS OF TRAXXAS #1985 2 WEEKS AGO TO SHIM THE SMALL DRIVESHAFT IN THE GEN8 TRANSFER CASE,SO THOSE SHIMS BY TRAXXAS ARE ON MY WORKBENCH,GREAT EXPLAINING IN THE DETAIL AND WHEN I START MY BUILD IM MOST DEFINITELY DOING THIS TO THE PLAY AREA,THANKS MAN!🤜🤛👍
Excellent video, great explanation and demonstration
Great Vid and well detailed, will be doing this in Mine for sure. Thanks mate :)
Excellent video! Thank you so much for taking the time to share this info with all of us.
Thanks for taking time to comment with kind words. Im glad to hear the video was appreciated.
well done sir , thank you .
Good information to compare each case. It's very useful for me. Cool!👍👍😄 I subscribed.
Thank you buddy it is very helpful 👍
Very helpful. Thank you so much 😊
Some good info here. Thanks!
Thank you!
Good job well explain. 👍
My Defender was doing this. I took it apart and added a Traxxas shim to the other side of the large gear and that seem to work.
Awesome! The same principle could apply for 2-spds, but I assume the solution would be different based on the difference in internal components.
Awesome fix ... I already ordered all the shims to crack down on it, but hear me out. ( maybe a stupid idea ). Drill a 2-3mm hole in the end of the deep case where the shaft has play. Put a screw in to push the shaft forward. BAM ... adjustable. Not sure on the longevity of the threads in the plastic.
Very useful! Thanks I will try this on my trx4!
Glad to hear this is helpful. I appreciate the feedback!
GREAT VIDEO MY RC BROTHER,THANKS SO MUCH!
Great video. Would you happen to remember the part number of the HPI shims?
Thanks! Unfortunately I don’t know the part number for the HPI shims since they were part of clutch kits I’d bought back in the day.
Very good approach! Thanks for your share. There is one question. Can I know the reason why the shims outside need? If the inside shim assembled with supporter, this clearance causing clicking can be eliminated, I think. The outside shims are for preventing deformation of pin in advance?
Due to the direction of the shaft pin pockets in the gears, the shims are required on both sides to reduce the shaft movement/clearance. If only skimmed one side, the shaft can still shift within the gears and clicking/noise can still occur.
@@Forker45 O.K, I see, I'll try again.
Quick question, should I buy some of those arrma shims for under the spacer as well as the traxxas teflon shims for the other bit
I used the Arrma shims because they are thinner than the Traxxas shims and I had them on-hand. A better choice would be to get the Yokomo set to have multiple thicknesses to choose from.
@@Forker45 they were cheap enough I bought both, cheers for the video
I see more and more people using drills to do maintenance on thier RC's.
In my thirty years of the hobby I've tried every different type of driver you can imagine. I've set the clutches and speeds on the lowest settings possible.
My findings have always been that the plastics on 90% of RC's are heated and thread damaged by anything other than a manual hex driver. Thier were a few cases of Factory team AE plastics and Team Losi plastics held up better using a powered driver.
To the naked eye the damage is not noticeable, but under magnification you can see the damage get progressively worse around 10 to 12 cycles of in and out. At around 12 to 15 cycles I found that most threads were almost completely gone, and the screws would generally not tighten fully anymore.
The high end racers would last a bit longer around 30 cycles in and out.
I have found that if you use a manual hex driver the plastics will generally last 200 to 300 cycles if you take care to not overtighten the screws. I have a Tamiya grasshopper, a Golden Arrow, and a Stampede that has a mechanical ESC that are original and still have good threads in the plastics
I'm not trying be ignorant or judging you in anyway.
I just want to know if the Plastics may have changed in the last five years ago or so. So much that I may need to run this test again on some of my newer Traxxas vehicles. It sure would make maintenance easier to just hook my bits up to my power drill and zip them in and out. I definitely don't want a bunch of ruined plastics though, as I do methodical and regular maintenance on all my vehicles.
Thanks. I’ve had no issues with the driver I use. If you were to make a video detailing your experiment and findings I’m sure there would be a lot of people interested in those results.
Hi just got this clicking noise. Very helpful thanks for this. What would happen If I ignore the clicking noise? Would it grind down the transfer case housing groove/pocket all the way in? Thanks
I don’t know what the long term affect is so I can’t for sure...but I don’t think anything detrimental would happen if you ignore it. It would only wear away as much material as the clearance allows and I suspect the clicking would be worse as that clearance increases from wear.
Absolutely awesome info my TC friend 👍 SUBBED
Did it click as new? I have only driven 3 hours on my sport high trail and it started now cliking sometimes....
@@topqualityfi8216 yes my truck clicked new and this is how I fixed it
@@Forker45 so annyoing to pay 580e for car and after 3h gets clicking.... -.-
Odd issue! I wonder if this is also an issue on the 2 speed variant. I just bought a Defender so I'm curious if it's an issue that may have been fixed in a revision.
It seems to be a single speed issue only based on my searching when I first noticed the issue. However I know if I had a two speed that was clicking, the first thing I would check is endplay/clearance stack up.
@@Forker45 interesting, I couldn't find anything about the 2 speed either. Excellent video though, I will hold on to it just in case! Thank you.
Thanks for this fix 😁👍👍👍
So what shims do I need?
Check the links in the description. Due to production variation I can’t say exactly how many to use in each location. You’ll need to check the endplay and adjust. For me using the Traxxas shims on the three gear side would not have worked out so that’s why I used clutch shims which are thinner.
HEY BROTHER,,I HAVE THE TRAXXAS SHIMS PART#1985 WHICH ARE THE ''5X8 0.5MM'' CAN I USE THESE ON THE 3 GEAR TRANSFER SIDE??? OR THE OTHER OPPOSITE END SIDE?? OR SHOULD I ORDER THE LINK DESCRIPTION YOKOMO SHIMS FROM AMAN AND USE THERE ''5X8 O.25MM''??I ASK BC I HAVE ABOUT 30 OF THE TRAXXAS SHIMS,BUT I HAVE NO PROBLEM ORDERING WHAT U MESSAGE ME TO MY FRIEND!! ANY FEEDBACK IS SO GREATLY APPRECIATED THANK YOU🤜🤛
I would go ahead and order the thinner shim set just so you have them on hand. I can’t say for sure which side either due to manufacturing tolerances, each kit could be different. But the same approach can be used to “dry-fit” the cases with the shaft, gear, spacer, & select the appropriate shims to fine tune the end play. Thanks for the support!
@@Forker45 I'm just gonna order the arrma shims that you have, and you had put 1x on the opposite side, there under $3.00 bucks,and order the YOKOMO SHIMS that were in the description that you used the 4x of them on the 3 gear side, and then just process of elimination the rest maybe I might need four as well or three,but having them,is better than not having them,thank you so much brother,and happy New years to you and your family🤜🤛
Sounds like a plan 👍🏽. Let me know how it works out and thanks for the kind words.
I just ran my kit build after I installed the electronics and was not impressed with the clicking noise so I will be pulling the transmission out
Good luck! Let us know if you’re able to resolve it.
Thank for a video. Subscribe
Well this is my first time on completely building the TRX4 and now I just found out that I have no power to the rear output shaft and there’s a loud noticeable clicking from the transmission so what am I looking for when I open the transmission to fix this situation?
Btw great work on these videos !
It’s most likely in that 3 gear area of the transfer case if you have power to one but not the other. I’d recommend going back through the manual and disassembling to see if you missed a drive pin or have something in wrong orientation.
2 shims at these locations
Long........ winded vid
Could of done this in 2 mins
No he's explaining his process into finding his solution, which is invaluable as it gives proof to his fix as well as showing the viewer if this is the same problem or not
this video is not 100% correct, but it's not false either. I have an aluminium transmission case, where I do not have that problem which you have in this video, but nevertheless, it's still clicking!! the problem is, this little pins are TOO SHORT in the gearwheel pocket and moving around while driving, and that is your clicking sound!
you'll need thick silicone oil (90.000 cst and more), just fill it in the gearwheel pocket and then this little pin will stop moving around and making clicking sounds
It sounds like your problem & solution could be unique to an aluminum case and quite possibly a different root cause of noise. I’m confident the solution I presented will resolve single speed Sport trans clicking as shown in the video. Thanks for the comment, I’m glad you were able to solve your issue.
@@Forker45 YES, your version will help, I know that! but if it's still clicking after that, then you have to do something with the short pins 👍🏻
@@Forker45 by the way, I have single speed too
Thank you!