1) 4-5 pumps into zerk fitting, wipe excess 2) remove zerk fitting 3) jump up and down on it 4) wipe off excess 5) reinstall zerk There are six zerk fittings, two on the slip yokes and four on the u-joints. Use lithium grease per Toyota.
You're crushing it with the 1st gen tundra content man. I have used your vids to mount a new head unit and a reverse camera. Just wanted to stop by and say thanks for the effort you are putting in!
Your videos seem to come out right when I need them. I actually recently replaced my carrier bearing and greased everything except for the slip yoke while it was out... Told myself I would do it when I had everything back in place, but forgot about it. This was the perfect reminder. Thanks Sal!
Tomorrow I'm going to look at my first truck and ur channel has been a great way to find out some more about these trucks and has helped me to feel confident that if I do end up getting this it's the right decision and if I don't get it I'm going to keep watching cuz ur a cool guy
Happens to me all the time and I just blew it off as “it’s just an old truck thing” but now I wanna actually fix it to your video when I’m back in town. Thanks a ton man. I got a 2001 sunfire red pearl TRD
This is good advice. Helps for sure. I change my own engine oil and gear boxes myself on my Tundra, but greasing is messy and is so much easier at a shop. Most shops will not charge you for this especially if you have been there before or are doing other work. But if you want to be sure that high quality grease is being used then doing it yourself is probably better.
Thanks for posting Sal. I saw greasing the yoke on the previous owners maintenance paperwork. Had not researched it yet. Bam you come along with a video. Perfect timing. Cheers
Got myself an 06 Tundy with the TRD package the other day and it was experiencing these issues. Went to harbor freight spent around 30 bucks and 2 hours later issue was resolved. Can’t thank you enough!
Hey Sal, I wanted to give it a few weeks since I took your advice and greased the slip yoke on my 06 Tundra. I had already greased the universal joints, but missed the yoke. I must say that after doing this, I have not had that annoying jump after a hard stop! I did not realize that was the cause before your timely video.....thanks!
I still have the original CV joints and u-bolts in my 2000 driveline at 275k hard miles. I've rebooted the CVs twice, and hit every grease point every all the way to the rear every 30- 40k. Drop and top on the transmission and change differential oil every 60k.
Thanks for another great video. I’m currently trying to figure out what’s causing the leak where the driveshaft meets the transmission on my 2005 Tundra. I appreciate your videos. I’ve used several of them for the upgrades/ repairs I’ve done.
the timing of this video couldnt be more perfect. Im having this exact issue. Will happen right as soon as i let off the brake or get back on the gas. was thinking it was the carrier bearing but will be trying this!
I was probably the first one to post the cause and fix for this issue back 20+ years ago on Tundra Solutions. It was known on the site as the Arkie6 Fix. Here is the lengthy write-up I had on the site, but can't seem to locate the actual thread at the new site: -ARKIE6 "On the vast majority of Tundras that experience the thump or bump in the rear when you come to an abrupt stop, it is due to binding in the driveshaft slip yoke. When you come to an abrupt stop, the rear of the truck rises up and elongates the driveshaft (via the slip yoke) in the process. Once you come to a stop, the back of the truck settles back down and the driveshaft compresses. If the truck is in gear, there will be some rotational torque applied to the driveshaft even when stopped. This rotational torque tends to increase the sliding friction in the slip yoke. If the slip yoke is not really well lubricated or the machining is not perfect, the slip yoke will tend to bind up and not compress. Then after you come to a stop, the transmission will downshift. During the downshift, the torque on the driveshaft is released which reduces the friction in the slip yoke and it will compress rather abruptly. This is the "thump" or "bump in the rear" that you are likely feeling. As a test to confirm, shift the transmission to neutral before coming to an abrupt stop. If you don't get the "thump" when you do this, but you do get it when the transmission is in drive, then it is very likely binding in the slip yoke. Ok, now that you have determined that it is binding in the slip yoke, you can either fix it yourself or convince your dealer to do it. Dealers don't make much money on warranty repairs unless parts are replaced, so they often may opt to replace the entire driveshaft assembly, which is fine as long as they hand lube the slip yoke with some good quality grease. But replacement of the driveshaft is typically not necessary. The slip yoke just needs to be greased properly, particularly on the 4x4s. 4x4s have the slip yoke at the back of the driveshaft where it connects to the rear end pinion shaft. The 4x4 driveshaft uses 4-bolt flanges at the rear end as well as at the transfer case output shaft. The 4x2 on the other hand has the slip yoke in the tail shaft of the transmission and as far as I know (I have a 4x4) is lubricated by the transmission fluid. I have heard of 4x2s with the thump, but most problems are with the 4x4s. The 4x2s may benefit from hand greasing the slip yoke splines, but I have not confirmed this. The 4x4 driveshaft slip yoke has a zerk fitting for adding grease; however, it is not very effective at getting grease at the point where the friction is taking place. There is a large void under the zerk fitting and it may take 30-40 pumps on a grease gun to actually get any grease on the splines, depending on how much if any grease was in there to begin with. The splines and seal are very tight and you may encounter significant resistance on the grease gun while grease is migrating along the splines. I've had my driveshaft apart examining the slip yoke and you have two options to properly grease the splines. One is to drop the rear driveshaft where it attaches to the rear end via the 4 bolts (always match-mark the two flanges to ensure you put them back in the same position - also, turn the bolts, not the nuts since the nuts have a high friction base flange to resist turning) and pull the slip yoke apart (again, match mark both halves of the slip yoke to ensure they go back together in the same relative position - the splines do have a wide spline to prevent mismatch; however, it is hard to see which one it is especially with grease on them and it's a pain trying to find just the right spot where they will slip together - match-marking the two halves before disassembly makes this much easier). Once the slip yoke is apart is then readily apparent why putting 5 or 10 shots of grease in the zerk fitting won't do any good. You can then hand lube the splines with a good quality grease. I would clean out as much of the existing grease as possible, but as long as you use a lithium base grease there should be no compatibility problems. Toyota recommends a lithium base NLGI#2 chassis grease for this. I recommend a lithium base molybdenum disulfide (moly) NLGI#2 chassis grease for this, the same grease that Toyota recommends for the double cardan joint. Once you've got everything greased up good, slide the yoke halves back together using the match marks to guide you then put the both flanges together, again using the match marks as a guide, install the bolts and nuts and torque. I think the torque is about 40 ft-lbs, but I don't have my manual handy at the moment. Torque from the bolt head, not the nut since the nut has a high friction base. After it is all together, shoot about 5-10 strokes of grease in the zerk fitting for "reserve", but you do not want it completely full as this will limit compression of the slip yoke. If all that is a little more than you want to tackle, here is an easier way that is probably just about as effective. Take your grease gun loaded with lithum base moly chassis grease and start pumping grease in the slip yoke zerk fitting. At some point you will encounter significant resistance on the grease gun handle and will likely note that the slip yoke is expanding. Slowly add grease at this point. You will likely see the slip yoke expand on each pump of the handle and then slowly contract. Continue adding grease for about 5-10 more strokes unless you see grease coming around the seal, then stop. Now get on the rear bumper and bounce it up and down a few times. This will tend to compress the slip yoke and force more grease along the splines. Now take a wrench and remove the zerk fitting to allow excess grease to escape. Once the zerk is removed, if a tablespoon or so of grease doesn't come out, then gently bounce on the bumper again to give it a little help. Once the excess grease is out, re-install the zerk, clean up the mess, and you are good to go. I initially used the straight lithum base chassis grease on the slip yoke and I started getting a hint of "thump" after about 10,000 miles. I subsequently put in the lithium base moly (an extreme pressure additive) grease and haven't had any hint of "thump" in 15,000+ miles. My truck (2000 Tundra 4x4) now has 28,000+ miles and is "thump" free.
Ha ha, I used to live in Fl, and would take extra t-shirts with me everywhere. One tip on grease guns is to buy a good one. The cheap ones might work for a bit, but will only make you lose your mind at some point. Also, you want to use high-pressure, high-temp grease for drivelines. Marine grease won't hurt and will work fine, just won't hold up as long. I usually have two grease guns loaded up, one with "waterproof" grease for boat trailer bearings, and one for drive and suspension components.
Great video. My 03 TRD is doing that. I also have loose steering when I floor it or hit rough road. I'll be doing a lot on mine kinda like what you have done on yours.
I probably won't do a video on it, but overdrive is simply the gear in the transmission where the wheels are spinning faster than the engine is. Basically every car has an overdrive gear. The only thing sorta special about it in our trucks is that we can press our O/D button to stay in the lower gear which can be optimal for towing. In the 2000-2002 Tundras, the gearset for that overdrive gear is apparently weaker than the other gears and can be known to fail when under a heavy load like towing or hauling. Therefore, it is recommended to deselect O/D when towing to avoid that failure. The O/D bulb is the lowest bulb in line with PRND21 O/D, you should be able to see that in my interior LED video I made. Hope this helps clear it up for you! And thanks for watching!
Funny you should say that, next video I'm throwing on some Bilstein 4600s. I seriously considered doing 5100s and some upgraded springs, but for the money and what I use this truck for, I felt that the 4600s just made more sense for me. Other than that, I'm actually pretty happy with where the truck is at. I'm currently looking for a DC tundra to upgrade to, and then the mods/upgrades would start all over again which is always exciting lol thanks for watching
My slip yoke has been making a clicking sound ever since I pulled my buddy’s Nissan across my town. I’m fairly certain it non grease-able. I need some advice.
Hmm, I'm honestly not sure where to start on that one. Is your truck a 4wd model? Someone else on here said the 2wd trucks don't have a slip yoke so maybe the sound is coming from somewhere else?
Hey JDM driveway. just greased up mine. do u have to drive around for a bit to notice the fix ? or should it be instantly. drove abt 15 miles and noticed it got better but sometimes still there. not sure if it take a little more driving around to completely go away?
I usually just pump the grease in until it starts coming out. Also are you greasing your ball joints? I believe I got the oem ones and man their a pain. Their “non grease-able” meaning you have to get a grease needle and slide that sucker underneath the seal without stabbing the seal. If anyone has any recommended lower and upper ball joint brands that are grease-able then please let me know.
I have not been greasing my LBJs, I frankly didn't even know that was a thing. Most people who you ask will tell you to only do OEM lower ball joints. The aftermarket ones are infamously known to fail prematurely. Thanks for watching!
Yup, this has been a Florida truck its whole life so it is pretty spotless under there. I'm definitely spoiled having such a clean truck, it set the bar pretty high for whatever vehicle I get next lol Thanks for watching!
If you're asking about an access cab like Sal's, the back seat can come fully out, but you will lose some sound dampening which will cause your cab to get louder. To remove it there are large bolts at the base 14mm or 12mm (can't remember). Then the seats hang on some hooks and you just have to lift them vertically to remove them from the back wall. Have two people if possible.
That's low mileage, but still a lot of money for an AC. I would definitely consider it though if you're looking for a long term truck. Best of luck if you decide to go with it! Thanks for watching
1) 4-5 pumps into zerk fitting, wipe excess
2) remove zerk fitting
3) jump up and down on it
4) wipe off excess
5) reinstall zerk
There are six zerk fittings, two on the slip yokes and four on the u-joints. Use lithium grease per Toyota.
Thanks man, this is exactly what I was hoping for! We appreciate it!
if only they put zerk fittings on their ball joints -____-
You're crushing it with the 1st gen tundra content man. I have used your vids to mount a new head unit and a reverse camera. Just wanted to stop by and say thanks for the effort you are putting in!
I appreciate that, I'm enjoying making the videos and helping you guys out too! Thanks for watching!
Your videos seem to come out right when I need them. I actually recently replaced my carrier bearing and greased everything except for the slip yoke while it was out... Told myself I would do it when I had everything back in place, but forgot about it. This was the perfect reminder. Thanks Sal!
Lol glad to hear it. I'm thinking about doing my carrier bearing soon too, I'll keep you guys updated though! Thanks for watching
I'd love to see you do a video on all grease points on the first gen.
Got it, I'll definitely look into it. Thanks for watching!
My 2004 has been dealing with this for years. I used to think somebody hit me from behind. Such a simple fix to thank you
For sure, thanks for watching!
Tomorrow I'm going to look at my first truck and ur channel has been a great way to find out some more about these trucks and has helped me to feel confident that if I do end up getting this it's the right decision and if I don't get it I'm going to keep watching cuz ur a cool guy
Best of luck with the truck! I appreciate the kind words, thanks for watching!
Happens to me all the time and I just blew it off as “it’s just an old truck thing” but now I wanna actually fix it to your video when I’m back in town. Thanks a ton man. I got a 2001 sunfire red pearl TRD
Sweet, glad to hear it. Hope its a simple fix like it was for me! Thanks for watching
This is good advice. Helps for sure.
I change my own engine oil and gear boxes myself on my Tundra, but greasing is messy and is so much easier at a shop. Most shops will not charge you for this especially if you have been there before or are doing other work. But if you want to be sure that high quality grease is being used then doing it yourself is probably better.
That's a good point, and if you're not sure exactly how to do it (like me lol) it can sometimes be easier to have a shop do it. Thanks for watching
Thanks for posting Sal. I saw greasing the yoke on the previous owners maintenance paperwork. Had not researched it yet. Bam you come along with a video. Perfect timing.
Cheers
Awesome, glad to hear it Daryl. Thanks for watching!
Got myself an 06 Tundy with the TRD package the other day and it was experiencing these issues. Went to harbor freight spent around 30 bucks and 2 hours later issue was resolved. Can’t thank you enough!
I have the same issue! Gonna fix it now thanks sal 🤙🏽
Sweet, glad to hear it. Thanks for watching!
Another amazing video from this man, amazing!!!….hands up for first gen tundra drivers!!! …you got a lifetime subscriber…👏👏👏👏👍👍👍⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
I appreciate that, thanks for watching!!
Hey Sal, I wanted to give it a few weeks since I took your advice and greased the slip yoke on my 06 Tundra. I had already greased the universal joints, but missed the yoke. I must say that after doing this, I have not had that annoying jump after a hard stop! I did not realize that was the cause before your timely video.....thanks!
That's great to hear. Glad the video helped, and thanks for watching!
when u greased the slip yoke did u fill it up or only do 3 pumps?
@@cedricmendoza1305 It is recommended to give it 3-5 pumps and jump up and down on the rear bumper to get the yoke sliding and distribute the grease.
Great vid! Thank you for explaining!
I can't believe how clean your undercarriage is!
I got lucky with a truck who's lived its whole life in FL! And I continue to count my blessings lol. Thanks for watching
Ive been searching for this answer for years now. thank you
That's great to hear! Thanks for watching
when u did this fix did u have to drive around for awhile for it to completely fix ? or was it instantly?
I still have the original CV joints and u-bolts in my 2000 driveline at 275k hard miles. I've rebooted the CVs twice, and hit every grease point every all the way to the rear every 30- 40k. Drop and top on the transmission and change differential oil every 60k.
Wow that's awesome to hear. I haven't touched the trans or diff fluids yet, but I've been considering it. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for another great video. I’m currently trying to figure out what’s causing the leak where the driveshaft meets the transmission on my 2005 Tundra. I appreciate your videos. I’ve used several of them for the upgrades/ repairs I’ve done.
Yeah, I think I have a minor leak there too. I think there's a seal around the output shaft which may be going bad. Thanks for watching!
I'm hearing it comes from the yoke
the timing of this video couldnt be more perfect. Im having this exact issue. Will happen right as soon as i let off the brake or get back on the gas. was thinking it was the carrier bearing but will be trying this!
Yeah, it's definitely worth a shot at least, I hope its an easy fix like it was for me! Thanks for watching!
did it work when u greased it up??
@@cedricmendoza1305 didnt go completely away but it was very apparent and now you can barely even notice it
@@Dannyyzeee also how many miles on yr tacoma?
@@cedricmendoza1305 80k, i have a tundra. this video is about a tundra
I was probably the first one to post the cause and fix for this issue back 20+ years ago on Tundra Solutions. It was known on the site as the Arkie6 Fix. Here is the lengthy write-up I had on the site, but can't seem to locate the actual thread at the new site:
-ARKIE6
"On the vast majority of Tundras that experience the thump or bump in the rear when you come to an abrupt stop, it is due to binding in the driveshaft slip yoke. When you come to an abrupt stop, the rear of the truck rises up and elongates the driveshaft (via the slip yoke) in the process. Once you come to a stop, the back of the truck settles back down and the driveshaft compresses. If the truck is in gear, there will be some rotational torque applied to the driveshaft even when stopped. This rotational torque tends to increase the sliding friction in the slip yoke. If the slip yoke is not really well lubricated or the machining is not perfect, the slip yoke will tend to bind up and not compress. Then after you come to a stop, the transmission will downshift. During the downshift, the torque on the driveshaft is released which reduces the friction in the slip yoke and it will compress rather abruptly. This is the "thump" or "bump in the rear" that you are likely feeling. As a test to confirm, shift the transmission to neutral before coming to an abrupt stop. If you don't get the "thump" when you do this, but you do get it when the transmission is in drive, then it is very likely binding in the slip yoke.
Ok, now that you have determined that it is binding in the slip yoke, you can either fix it yourself or convince your dealer to do it. Dealers don't make much money on warranty repairs unless parts are replaced, so they often may opt to replace the entire driveshaft assembly, which is fine as long as they hand lube the slip yoke with some good quality grease. But replacement of the driveshaft is typically not necessary. The slip yoke just needs to be greased properly, particularly on the 4x4s. 4x4s have the slip yoke at the back of the driveshaft where it connects to the rear end pinion shaft. The 4x4 driveshaft uses 4-bolt flanges at the rear end as well as at the transfer case output shaft. The 4x2 on the other hand has the slip yoke in the tail shaft of the transmission and as far as I know (I have a 4x4) is lubricated by the transmission fluid. I have heard of 4x2s with the thump, but most problems are with the 4x4s. The 4x2s may benefit from hand greasing the slip yoke splines, but I have not confirmed this.
The 4x4 driveshaft slip yoke has a zerk fitting for adding grease; however, it is not very effective at getting grease at the point where the friction is taking place. There is a large void under the zerk fitting and it may take 30-40 pumps on a grease gun to actually get any grease on the splines, depending on how much if any grease was in there to begin with. The splines and seal are very tight and you may encounter significant resistance on the grease gun while grease is migrating along the splines. I've had my driveshaft apart examining the slip yoke and you have two options to properly grease the splines. One is to drop the rear driveshaft where it attaches to the rear end via the 4 bolts (always match-mark the two flanges to ensure you put them back in the same position - also, turn the bolts, not the nuts since the nuts have a high friction base flange to resist turning) and pull the slip yoke apart (again, match mark both halves of the slip yoke to ensure they go back together in the same relative position - the splines do have a wide spline to prevent mismatch; however, it is hard to see which one it is especially with grease on them and it's a pain trying to find just the right spot where they will slip together - match-marking the two halves before disassembly makes this much easier). Once the slip yoke is apart is then readily apparent why putting 5 or 10 shots of grease in the zerk fitting won't do any good. You can then hand lube the splines with a good quality grease. I would clean out as much of the existing grease as possible, but as long as you use a lithium base grease there should be no compatibility problems. Toyota recommends a lithium base NLGI#2 chassis grease for this. I recommend a lithium base molybdenum disulfide (moly) NLGI#2 chassis grease for this, the same grease that Toyota recommends for the double cardan joint. Once you've got everything greased up good, slide the yoke halves back together using the match marks to guide you then put the both flanges together, again using the match marks as a guide, install the bolts and nuts and torque. I think the torque is about 40 ft-lbs, but I don't have my manual handy at the moment. Torque from the bolt head, not the nut since the nut has a high friction base. After it is all together, shoot about 5-10 strokes of grease in the zerk fitting for "reserve", but you do not want it completely full as this will limit compression of the slip yoke.
If all that is a little more than you want to tackle, here is an easier way that is probably just about as effective. Take your grease gun loaded with lithum base moly chassis grease and start pumping grease in the slip yoke zerk fitting. At some point you will encounter significant resistance on the grease gun handle and will likely note that the slip yoke is expanding. Slowly add grease at this point. You will likely see the slip yoke expand on each pump of the handle and then slowly contract. Continue adding grease for about 5-10 more strokes unless you see grease coming around the seal, then stop. Now get on the rear bumper and bounce it up and down a few times. This will tend to compress the slip yoke and force more grease along the splines. Now take a wrench and remove the zerk fitting to allow excess grease to escape. Once the zerk is removed, if a tablespoon or so of grease doesn't come out, then gently bounce on the bumper again to give it a little help. Once the excess grease is out, re-install the zerk, clean up the mess, and you are good to go.
I initially used the straight lithum base chassis grease on the slip yoke and I started getting a hint of "thump" after about 10,000 miles. I subsequently put in the lithium base moly (an extreme pressure additive) grease and haven't had any hint of "thump" in 15,000+ miles. My truck (2000 Tundra 4x4) now has 28,000+ miles and is "thump" free.
No way, that's awesome! Thanks so much for the thorough write up, and thanks for posting it here too!
thanks for posting this. Was looking this up and realized i need to do this asap
speaking of which, Sal you think you could make a video on the diff fluid changes? and 4wd
I've been thinking about doing that because I haven't changed the fluids on my truck. Thanks for the idea
@@JDMDriveway would be greatly appreciated! I’ve learned a lot using your vids man
thanks for taking the time to beat the grease gun fitting technique to death, i learned a thing..
.
I'm definitely not an expert here, but I like to take the time to show it for everyone else! Thanks for watching
Thanks for the video just checked my 2002 Tundra 2 wheel drive and it does not have the slip yoke.
Gotcha, thanks for letting me know!
Ha ha, I used to live in Fl, and would take extra t-shirts with me everywhere. One tip on grease guns is to buy a good one. The cheap ones might work for a bit, but will only make you lose your mind at some point. Also, you want to use high-pressure, high-temp grease for drivelines. Marine grease won't hurt and will work fine, just won't hold up as long. I usually have two grease guns loaded up, one with "waterproof" grease for boat trailer bearings, and one for drive and suspension components.
Nice, thanks for the tips! I'd like to upgrade my harbor freight one at some point here. Thanks for watching!
Wow! I got this the very first week I bought my truck. I thought it was something trucks do since it was my first truck ever.
My truck was bought new from the dealership.
I only have experience with 200k mile trucks 😂 interesting that you'd feel it right off the bat. Thanks for watching!
They ended up replacing my shaft here. I guess it had gone too long without being greased. It certainly did it pretty hard on my 1st gen as well.
Dang I didn't know it could get that bad haha, I guess it makes sense though! Thanks for watching
Great video. My 03 TRD is doing that. I also have loose steering when I floor it or hit rough road. I'll be doing a lot on mine kinda like what you have done on yours.
Huh interesting, probably some front end bushings need to be addressed. Maybe the steering rack ones? They tend to wear out. Thanks for watching!
I get this when accelerating, not braking. Hoping this is the same issue. Thanks for sharing!
It may also be the carrier bearing, but best of luck with the fix!
Unfortunately, I have a 2WD, so no slip yoke. And I just had my carrier bearing and U joints redone, so not those either. Pain.
Oof lol good luck man
Can you do a video on the overdrive feature. Also confirm which bulb it is since mine went out.
I probably won't do a video on it, but overdrive is simply the gear in the transmission where the wheels are spinning faster than the engine is. Basically every car has an overdrive gear. The only thing sorta special about it in our trucks is that we can press our O/D button to stay in the lower gear which can be optimal for towing. In the 2000-2002 Tundras, the gearset for that overdrive gear is apparently weaker than the other gears and can be known to fail when under a heavy load like towing or hauling. Therefore, it is recommended to deselect O/D when towing to avoid that failure. The O/D bulb is the lowest bulb in line with PRND21 O/D, you should be able to see that in my interior LED video I made. Hope this helps clear it up for you! And thanks for watching!
@@JDMDriveway great explanation….thanks!
Any information on this issue for an 05 2wd tundra? I have no grease fittings...
What are you next upgrades for the truck? Maybe a real suspension set up not the metal spacer kind
Funny you should say that, next video I'm throwing on some Bilstein 4600s. I seriously considered doing 5100s and some upgraded springs, but for the money and what I use this truck for, I felt that the 4600s just made more sense for me. Other than that, I'm actually pretty happy with where the truck is at. I'm currently looking for a DC tundra to upgrade to, and then the mods/upgrades would start all over again which is always exciting lol thanks for watching
My slip yoke has been making a clicking sound ever since I pulled my buddy’s Nissan across my town. I’m fairly certain it non grease-able. I need some advice.
Hmm, I'm honestly not sure where to start on that one. Is your truck a 4wd model? Someone else on here said the 2wd trucks don't have a slip yoke so maybe the sound is coming from somewhere else?
@@JDMDriveway Mines 4WD. It doesn’t click when I put it in gear plus I checked the u-joints and they didn’t make any concerning noises.
@zelepuza3518 gotcha, yeah I'm really not too sure what could be causing that. So it's clicking while driving? Or just when you come to a stop?
@@JDMDriveway it happens when I come to a stop
might be your center support bearing
@@zelepuza3518
My Tundra does the opposite, when accelerating on an incline I get a pop from the rear.
Mine was doing that and I replaced the center carrier bearing and it fixed it
@@kayden_lynd thank you!
Sweet, glad to hear it. I'm sure checking the slip yoke wouldn't hurt too. Thanks for watching!
Hey JDM driveway. just greased up mine. do u have to drive around for a bit to notice the fix ? or should it be instantly. drove abt 15 miles and noticed it got better but sometimes still there. not sure if it take a little more driving around to completely go away?
I usually just pump the grease in until it starts coming out. Also are you greasing your ball joints? I believe I got the oem ones and man their a pain. Their “non grease-able” meaning you have to get a grease needle and slide that sucker underneath the seal without stabbing the seal. If anyone has any recommended lower and upper ball joint brands that are grease-able then please let me know.
I have not been greasing my LBJs, I frankly didn't even know that was a thing. Most people who you ask will tell you to only do OEM lower ball joints. The aftermarket ones are infamously known to fail prematurely. Thanks for watching!
Does every first gen tundra have the same dent in the front bumper
hahaha I think so. Those chrome bumpers dent super easily. Thanks for watching
How is your undercarriage so rust free with such an oldie? I have a 2006 tundra but I live in Pennsylvania so she a rusty girl underneath
He lives in Florida he said in a previous video
Yup, this has been a Florida truck its whole life so it is pretty spotless under there. I'm definitely spoiled having such a clean truck, it set the bar pretty high for whatever vehicle I get next lol Thanks for watching!
Fluid film it
What kind of the grease to I use for my Toyota tundra 2002.?
I honestly don't know that it really matters. I opted for the marine grease, but other people might recommend something else. Thanks for watching
Any idea hot to remove the back seat?
If you're asking about an access cab like Sal's, the back seat can come fully out, but you will lose some sound dampening which will cause your cab to get louder. To remove it there are large bolts at the base 14mm or 12mm (can't remember). Then the seats hang on some hooks and you just have to lift them vertically to remove them from the back wall. Have two people if possible.
Thanks for that awesome info. I haven't tried taking them out at all myself, so I'm glad someone else had the answer. Thanks for watching!
@@garrett_m_m my man thanks for the info
@@JDMDriveway possible video idea :)
I found a 2002 tundra 75k miles for 18k should I get it ??
That's low mileage, but still a lot of money for an AC. I would definitely consider it though if you're looking for a long term truck. Best of luck if you decide to go with it! Thanks for watching
Try a lock and lube grease coupler,
Locknlube
I'll check it out, thanks!
Why are you "slamming" on the brakes so often? Pay attention and stop tailgating... with your mom in the car even.