@@GunnerAsch1 IKR??? (lol) But that's not what I was getting at, really. "Re-using cotter pins hurts my soul" was quite literally the very first piece of merch offered on this channel; a founding principle that Ray lives by & will NEVER compromise on! ^.^ I was making light of the fact that: of all the people to lose it, and of all the things for Ray to lose, it HAD to be the Cotter pin master kit!!! LMFAO
My biggest challenge this week came on Friday. I changed out a freeze plug in a 1979 Pontiac Trans Am 400 without pulling the engine. It was the middle plug on the drivers side of the block, so it sets just to the firewall side of the cradle. No direct access to the thing. I was proud of my achievement lol
I feel the rust. Living outskirts of Minneapolis. Replaced both front control arms last year 2009 Subaru Tribeca. One bad ball joint, but control arm assembly with ball joints cheaper than ball joints alone. Replace one, replace both. Poor garage mechanic doing my own work. Had to throw the kitchen sink at it. 2 days torches, pneumatic impacts, pneumatic chisels...ended cutting the sway bar links. Got it all fixed. New tires, struts, ball joints. Perfect. $2k or so. 2 months later engine craps out. Newish Crosstrek is not a good replacement for a seasoned Tribeca. My 8yr old son actually cried when i showed up witj the replacement. Live and learn. Got the "reusing cotter pins damages my soul" hoodie last week. Fits here at the end of this video.
One other piece of info is that when I was in Afghanistan working with a helo mission we used stainless steel wire to tie ALL of our bolts and nuts so that vibration would not loosen them. Of course the aircraft bolts were pre-drilled with holes to thread the wire thru. There was a particular way the wire had to be threaded and wrapped. It may have been a cheap alternative but the steel in a cotter pin is of high tinsel strength so you could have hammered that pin you took out and reused it. BUT, being that everything you do is on camera, I can understand you wanting to use new parts. WE out here in YT land KNOW that you are an honest and ethical person. One reason that your live feeds get so many audience members is just for that reason Sir. Great SHOW!!
After calling literally 17 ships in town I have only found 1 that will work with "customer supplied parts". Most tell me it is an insurance thing where others say they have to do this to prevent customers from coming back and claiming the shop didn't install the parts they supplied but put in cheaper parts instead. The problem I have always encountered, which is why I prefer to supply my own parts, is that I have NEVER found a shop that would buy the specific brands I like. they always get theirs from the local NAPA or Carquest but those places don't carry brands that I have had good success with (Moog for instance). A perfect example is mevotech. All the shops where I used to live LOVED mevotech parts but from my own personal experience they can't build a balljoint if their lives depended on it. I've even gotten brand new mevotech radius arms with rattling balljoints right out of the box and had to send them back TWICE to finally get ones that were "good". Wondering if there is any way you could suggest I get the shop to source the brands I want if they won't use the parts I bring in myself?
You have to have fun otherwise the job comes aggravating and tedious you get frustrated and you start breaking things or worse so you get hurt have a good day
Hello Ray, Love your U-tube post, I am writing to you because I was Vacumming the House today and when I got done . I shut the vacumm off and made the power off sound, that you do. And I had a great Laugh, with my self. Thanks Tom from Vermont
Depends if tightening the bush locks the rotation of the rubber as some joints allow the centre to spin on its axis as this arm does on the left bush (console type). If it does lock the rotation then yes you should tighten with the appropriate loading applied in order for the rubber not to twist which will promote tearing and short life expectancy.
General rule of thumb is Yes, because even if the control locks the rotation or not, the other parts of the control arm should be torqued under ride load to ensure even wear and load.
@@MiracleMitch your explanation is awesome. I was actually thinking about that earlier today. Never thought about preload until coming across instructions for a double adjustable lower trailering arm. 69 chevelle. Was wondering why. You answered my question before I asked it👍😁👍
It’s always kinda funny listening to you talk about the “challenges” of working on a northern car but to me, that’s just what working on a car is like haha
@@mccainiac1 yeah I work on rusted out cars all day everyday. I was just pointing out the humor in that being uncommon for him, but a non rusted car would be uncommon for me
I used to have to take 4 mm flat head screws out of the molds approximately 40 of them if that had been through multiple heat cycles and exposed to moisture I had drill & retape them in a blind hole. Had my work cut out but I did it have a great day
When you tighten the bushings on the lower control arm , the weight of the car should be applied before tightening. This puts the rubber of the bushing in a neutral state. The ball joint can flex at all angles so can be torqued before lowering the car ( also away bar links)
That's what I call them too, but I do have an assortment kit here that has a sticker on it that says: "Split steel cotter pins". I guess it depends whart part of the world/country/state you're in and what school you went to ;)
Ray, loosen the nuts on the front and rear control arm bushes, put a transmission jack under the control arm and jack it up to load the suspension, then tighten the nuts on the bushes, if you dont that control arm will be junk in no time at all.
Hello Ray. I wanted to take time to thank you for your channel on UA-cam. I have slowly come to realize that I watch more of UA-cam than TV. It took me many months but I just started to subscribe to individuals as yourself. I have come to admire some qualities about yourself like courage! It takes real courage to start your own business. Evidently you are confident with your skills and persistence to overcome is another major quality. I noticed how you interact with your child and wife unit displays qualities of patience and love. I know you will succeed in anything you do in life. Thank you for sharing your personality. Good clicks and gravity to your new year around the corner in your business.
Cool vid, but dont you need to lower the car on its wheels before tightening the bolts/nuts on the control arms to prevent the bushings from twisting too much??
Tightening the front bolt with the suspension hanging will 1. Change the ride height of that corner of the vehicle. 2. Put extra load on the rubber in the bushing and cause early failure. Classic backyard mechanic mistake. All suspension mounts should be tightened at ride height, tighten them enough to hold and do final tightening ( not that Ray torques anything to spec anyways) with the vehicles weight applied to the suspension. AKA wheels on and sitting on the ground. Great place to have an alignment or drive on ramp type lift.
Ray. Leave bushing thru bolts untightened until the vehicle is at ride height (example: on the alignment rack) or they will get torn up. I'm sure you know that securing that control arm with the suspension hanging will pre load a twist into the bushing when it hits the floor and is a no no!!! Dr. John.
Last month I put a lower control arm bushing bracket on my car what I discovered years ago I'd gotten in a wreck and it had been replaced but the mechanic did not tighten it up I had a vibration my front end everybody said it was a rotor got under there and saw a shiny ring around the bolt head where'd been wallowing around in the aluminum so I got a new set got the car in the air and fixed it in the driveway great job Ray have a great day
I'm ok with this video being short as I work at the plant that the sub frame and LCA were made. A tip for next time you have to get that front bushing in is to put a little bit of lubricant on both ends.
one thing i dont miss about not being a mechanic any more after 15 years of doing it....working on other ppls POS cars....now i just work on my own car and my mothers....and this is the happiest i been in my entire life.
This is just my observation: Me and MY “Wife Unit” really enjoy watching your videos, very informative and very entertaining. We also love when you include your kids and your “Wife Unit”. We love your take on the work you are doing and on life in general, you have a GREAT sense of humor. BUT we were NOT a fan for when you and the “Guys” got to together on that last project or when you had that last ZOOM meeting. We are not saying to stop doing them, just that “WE” will probably skip watching those kind of videos in the future. Hope your future videos are all nice and shiny! James and Lisa
Jimmy & Lisa, I agree with your point, the newness of Ray and the boys figuring out how to do live streaming isn’t good content but hopefully Ray and Wife unit will keep it to what got them to this point. He’s skills is what brought everyone to his site. He’s learned the video side thru the years and now produces a good product.
Lol, the irony is that he comments about the lugnuts being swollen. However, the main reason lugnuts get swollen is because they are blasted off and then blasted back on. They should be broken loose with a breaker bar then removed once jacked and then torqued back on by hand.
A 3/8” extension is the best tool to put on the clips that hold the pins in a door on the chevy c/k series trucks. I’m surprised you havnt made a video about putting chevy door by pins in.
Actually, as you have loosened the centre bolt of the rear bush, and installed the front bush bolt, they should be loosened, and only torqued/tightened once the weight of the car is on the right front suspension. This is pretty common practice for all rubber suspension bushes of this type. If you tighten the bush bolts with suspension fully extended, the rubber will be stressed when the car is on the ground, and likely leads to premature failing (tearing) of the rubber bushing. I am sure you yourself have noted this on your earlier vids!
The shop I go to will, but not unreasonably they won't warranty the parts. I had them put a clutch in my 96 Jeep XJ, I had the parts but after watching a few videos decided that was not a job I wanted to tackle on my gravel driveway. The parts went to a Habitat Restore.
When installing things with rubber bushing like a control arm, I've heard that final tightening of the bolts/nuts should be done with the weight of the car on the wheels. I assume that it's because of the position of the rubber bushing. If the wheels are hanging when tightened, the bushing rubber will be under stress when they experience the weight of the car. Is that true?
Yes the final tightening should be done with the vehicle on its wheels at normal ride height. Ray knows this and he also knows the car has to go to another location for a wheel alignment where the bushings will have to be loosened to perform the alignment. The bushings will be ok so long as large bumps are avoided. Large bumps could break the rubber free inside the bushing.
Just in case nobody else mentioned it , you need to re tighten the bolt on the end of the control arm that you loosened to align the rear mount bolts , great vid keep up the good work
Our vehicles up here in Wisconsin seriously look like that in 1 year here. Cars typically last about 5 Years here before they rot out. My brothers 2016 Silverado has very serious frame rot after just 6 Wisconsin salty winters.
Have we gone back to the 1970s? I remember cars rusting out in 5 years back then but in the 80s and 90s cars were going 10 years before rusting out. I think they’re using harsher calcium chloride, etc. Anyone notice this? If true it makes leasing a car in Wisconsin a good idea.
A good hardware store can sell you finishing nails by the piece. Those make great "cotter pins"! Just be sure to spray them with brake cleaner once a month!!
I've done that a few times.axel but loose .easy in.and easier on the body.cheers ray .don't forget lube when removing the nuts , saves our tools from working so hard .🍺🍺
New biz, going LIVE on UA-cam and a full family to boot. Please tell me you are taking enough breaks to clear your mind and relax. Don't burn out dude! Love this channel!
I have extension as extended hammer tool they be good for that … one problem with mine been used that much it no longer takes a socket on the end lol 🇦🇺
Nice job, but why not any lube or rust protection added? Instead of heavy use of brake clean, just a little grease in general, and some cheap rust protection as final act?
....assuming the control arm does not need to be on the ground and levelled/loaded before tightening up the main bolts? Of course not...silly me for asking..
Sitting here in a resort in Phuket Thailand. My neighbours probably think I'm rebuilding a car in this room. It's an improvement on the Hindu disco music they've been subjecting me to.
Hurt at Work! Smashed Myself | 2010 Equinox 3.0 AWD ua-cam.com/video/JfxcCRE47tA/v-deo.html
Of all the things to mis-place, it HAD to be the cotter pin master kit; LMAO!!!
@@Rekuzan Harbor Freight sells a good cotter pin kit btw... cheap enough too.
@@GunnerAsch1 IKR??? (lol) But that's not what I was getting at, really. "Re-using cotter pins hurts my soul" was quite literally the very first piece of merch offered on this channel; a founding principle that Ray lives by & will NEVER compromise on! ^.^ I was making light of the fact that: of all the people to lose it, and of all the things for Ray to lose, it HAD to be the Cotter pin master kit!!! LMFAO
love the new intro
Hi Ray, need more pry bar. Gotta go and get one at Kmart. Yeah, yeah, yeah.....
Sunday afternoon in Germany, Cup of Coffee a cookie and watching the Rainman, just great
My biggest challenge this week came on Friday. I changed out a freeze plug in a 1979 Pontiac Trans Am 400 without pulling the engine. It was the middle plug on the drivers side of the block, so it sets just to the firewall side of the cradle. No direct access to the thing. I was proud of my achievement lol
Loving the intro. Very well created and original. Short and sweet. Long intros are like broken off bolts in hard to reach places!
The longer the intro, the less I like the video. This one is perfect, short and to the point.
It’s perfect. Someone has some creative juice.
Yeah, this intro is quite awesome.
Yea, I like Dr. Disrespect too
lol I watch too many streams because the first time i seen it I thought of Dr. D in a second.
I feel the rust. Living outskirts of Minneapolis.
Replaced both front control arms last year 2009 Subaru Tribeca. One bad ball joint, but control arm assembly with ball joints cheaper than ball joints alone. Replace one, replace both.
Poor garage mechanic doing my own work. Had to throw the kitchen sink at it. 2 days torches, pneumatic impacts, pneumatic chisels...ended cutting the sway bar links.
Got it all fixed. New tires, struts, ball joints. Perfect. $2k or so.
2 months later engine craps out. Newish Crosstrek is not a good replacement for a seasoned Tribeca. My 8yr old son actually cried when i showed up witj the replacement. Live and learn.
Got the "reusing cotter pins damages my soul" hoodie last week. Fits here at the end of this video.
"I've ruined enough of these to know when I'm about to ruin one of these..."
I think that's the definition of wisdom.
Back in the shade tree days we used a bent over finish nail to replace a cotter pin.
Drive 'em in, pound 'em over and done.
God damn that intro is sick
It is great to get my morning fix of Ray along with my coffee. I am happy for Ray he looks forward to go into work now.
Me too have a great day coffee and Ray bye
One other piece of info is that when I was in Afghanistan working with a helo mission we used stainless steel wire to tie ALL of our bolts and nuts so that vibration would not loosen them. Of course the aircraft bolts were pre-drilled with holes to thread the wire thru.
There was a particular way the wire had to be threaded and wrapped.
It may have been a cheap alternative but the steel in a cotter pin is of high tinsel strength so you could have hammered that pin you took out and reused it.
BUT, being that everything you do is on camera, I can understand you wanting to use new parts.
WE out here in YT land KNOW that you are an honest and ethical person.
One reason that your live feeds get so many audience members is just for that reason Sir.
Great SHOW!!
After calling literally 17 ships in town I have only found 1 that will work with "customer supplied parts". Most tell me it is an insurance thing where others say they have to do this to prevent customers from coming back and claiming the shop didn't install the parts they supplied but put in cheaper parts instead. The problem I have always encountered, which is why I prefer to supply my own parts, is that I have NEVER found a shop that would buy the specific brands I like. they always get theirs from the local NAPA or Carquest but those places don't carry brands that I have had good success with (Moog for instance). A perfect example is mevotech. All the shops where I used to live LOVED mevotech parts but from my own personal experience they can't build a balljoint if their lives depended on it. I've even gotten brand new mevotech radius arms with rattling balljoints right out of the box and had to send them back TWICE to finally get ones that were "good". Wondering if there is any way you could suggest I get the shop to source the brands I want if they won't use the parts I bring in myself?
lol I haven't even seen the vid yet and I already smashed that like button. But, I mean, why not? It's Ray. How could it not be good?
Same here.
Same. Death, taxes and great Ray videos are the three certainties in life
I do the same thing with Ray, Rich from Ford Boss Me, Brain from FordTechMakuloco and AMD at The Car Care Nut channel. They always have good content.
I love watching your vids, they help me know that I'm not the only one who deals with rust and corrosion!
It is refreshing to see a guy having fun while working with tough bolts and nuts.
You have to have fun otherwise the job comes aggravating and tedious you get frustrated and you start breaking things or worse so you get hurt have a good day
Those were not tough at all,just normal.Tough is when they are rusted together like welded tight.
I usually hate intros but not yours, it's quick and VERY catchy. Poppening Z hood! Gravity. Love it!
I try to never reuse cotter pins. They are cheap enough to always keep a variety on hand. Love the new intro logo. It would make a great neon sign :)
Hello Ray, Love your U-tube post, I am writing to you because I was Vacumming the House today and when I got done . I shut the vacumm off and made the power off sound, that you do. And I had a great Laugh, with my self. Thanks Tom from Vermont
I bought a set of thin open ended spanners for those sway bar links on eBay. This saves spinning the joint in the socket with the power tool.
General question. Do control arm's need to be tightened under load at ride height?
Depends if tightening the bush locks the rotation of the rubber as some joints allow the centre to spin on its axis as this arm does on the left bush (console type). If it does lock the rotation then yes you should tighten with the appropriate loading applied in order for the rubber not to twist which will promote tearing and short life expectancy.
General rule of thumb is Yes, because even if the control locks the rotation or not, the other parts of the control arm should be torqued under ride load to ensure even wear and load.
@@MiracleMitch your explanation is awesome. I was actually thinking about that earlier today. Never thought about preload until coming across instructions for a double adjustable lower trailering arm. 69 chevelle. Was wondering why. You answered my question before I asked it👍😁👍
It’s always kinda funny listening to you talk about the “challenges” of working on a northern car but to me, that’s just what working on a car is like haha
I think what he was talking about was Northern cars run on salted roads and are more prone to be rusted out
@@mccainiac1 yeah I work on rusted out cars all day everyday. I was just pointing out the humor in that being uncommon for him, but a non rusted car would be uncommon for me
I used to have to take 4 mm flat head screws out of the molds approximately 40 of them if that had been through multiple heat cycles and exposed to moisture I had drill & retape them in a blind hole. Had my work cut out but I did it have a great day
The flavor! Where is CSW?
When you tighten the bushings on the lower control arm , the weight of the car should be applied before tightening. This puts the rubber of the bushing in a neutral state. The ball joint can flex at all angles so can be torqued before lowering the car ( also away bar links)
...u where about 3/4 of an hour quicker than me...exactly what I thought...👍
it's not gonna make a difference
It seems like many mechanics in US don’t follow the rules and do cut corners.
@@andyallen1772 it's not cutting corners it's working smart
@@inspectorjavert5563 It will
Aren’t they called split pins ? Cotter pins are a chamfered pin I think - the type that used to hold bicycle crank arms to the bottom bracket axle.
That's what I call them too, but I do have an assortment kit here that has a sticker on it that says: "Split steel cotter pins". I guess it depends whart part of the world/country/state you're in and what school you went to ;)
@@timjohnun4297 nail on head. The group are cotter pins. That makes sense. So, he’s correct. Cleared that up.
I've heard mechanics call them "Cotter keys" too.
What I really like are the diagnostics, and the more difficult, the more glued I find myself to the screen!
Ray, loosen the nuts on the front and rear control arm bushes, put a transmission jack under the control arm and jack it up to load the suspension, then tighten the nuts on the bushes, if you dont that control arm will be junk in no time at all.
" I've ruined enough of these to know when I'm about to ruin one of these"..........CLASSIC!
I live in the rust belt. We call that a rust free southern car.
Yeah, any chassis parts in which you don’t need the torch are clean
After being a mechanic for 14 years in Michigan I wonder if I would be an absolute beast if I moved down south and fixed cars lol
Yes...in the southwest things come apart pretty nicely lol
And the weather is better.
0:52 - Hey Ray: You need to do a video on your tool cart organizational strategy !! LOL
Organization = Pile stuff up until it avalanches off. Put some away and start over.
Love the videos watch them after work to help me learn to fix my own car but took my 2 hours to change my control arm ..... im Still learning
Snap On flank drive wrenches are the best,been running those since 1992.
I liked this video especially because Ray took a shortcut that actually saved him some time (droping the balljoint withuot removing the axle.)
Ray, never say this is going to be an easy job. Karma will get you.
Hello Ray. I wanted to take time to thank you for your channel on UA-cam. I have slowly come to realize that I watch more of UA-cam than TV. It took me many months but I just started to subscribe to individuals as yourself. I have come to admire some qualities about yourself like courage! It takes real courage to start your own business. Evidently you are confident with your skills and persistence to overcome is another major quality. I noticed how you interact with your child and wife unit displays qualities of patience and love. I know you will succeed in anything you do in life. Thank you for sharing your personality. Good clicks and gravity to your new year around the corner in your business.
not long ago my car needed balljoints, but i bought the control arms so i would also have new bushings.
Cool vid, but dont you need to lower the car on its wheels before tightening the bolts/nuts on the control arms to prevent the bushings from twisting too much??
Hard nope.
05:07 What a crazy design they made that that bold locks on the part above.
@3:18, Ruffles have ridges too.
Just the tip that's what she said!!! Morning sunshine hope you have an enjoyable time dealing with a little bit of the usual rust
Some days that's all there is.
Tightening the front bolt with the suspension hanging will
1. Change the ride height of that corner of the vehicle.
2. Put extra load on the rubber in the bushing and cause early failure.
Classic backyard mechanic mistake.
All suspension mounts should be tightened at ride height, tighten them enough to hold and do final tightening ( not that Ray torques anything to spec anyways) with the vehicles weight applied to the suspension. AKA wheels on and sitting on the ground. Great place to have an alignment or drive on ramp type lift.
Ray. Leave bushing thru bolts untightened until the vehicle is at ride height (example: on the alignment rack) or they will get torn up. I'm sure you know that securing that control arm with the suspension hanging will pre load a twist into the bushing when it hits the floor and is a no no!!! Dr. John.
Last month I put a lower control arm bushing bracket on my car what I discovered years ago I'd gotten in a wreck and it had been replaced but the mechanic did not tighten it up I had a vibration my front end everybody said it was a rotor got under there and saw a shiny ring around the bolt head where'd been wallowing around in the aluminum so I got a new set got the car in the air and fixed it in the driveway great job Ray have a great day
Hey Ray. Up here in the mid-western state of Illinois, I and my friends refer to that situation as Midwest Metal Mites.
I'm ok with this video being short as I work at the plant that the sub frame and LCA were made. A tip for next time you have to get that front bushing in is to put a little bit of lubricant on both ends.
one thing i dont miss about not being a mechanic any more after 15 years of doing it....working on other ppls POS cars....now i just work on my own car and my mothers....and this is the happiest i been in my entire life.
That garage filled up fast, with STUFF!!!
This is just my observation: Me and MY “Wife Unit” really enjoy watching your videos, very informative and very entertaining. We also love when you include your kids and your “Wife Unit”. We love your take on the work you are doing and on life in general, you have a GREAT sense of humor. BUT we were NOT a fan for when you and the “Guys” got to together on that last project or when you had that last ZOOM meeting. We are not saying to stop doing them, just that “WE” will probably skip watching those kind of videos in the future. Hope your future videos are all nice and shiny! James and Lisa
I agree in all aspects. Different people like different things, otherwise there would only be Coke OR Pepsi. (And definitely NOT RC Cola, blech...)
Jimmy & Lisa, I agree with your point, the newness of Ray and the boys figuring out how to do live streaming isn’t good content but hopefully Ray and Wife unit will keep it to what got them to this point. He’s skills is what brought everyone to his site. He’s learned the video side thru the years and now produces a good product.
Bumper lights looking good, now to make them functional.
Morning coffee and Ray on a gloomy Sunday morning is all i need! 👍🙃
You're so lucky. We took the steering knuckle off with the control arm as once piece and then hammered the ball joint out from the top in a vice.
I enjoy learning from your videos. You make it fun. Thank you Ray! :)
Ray, you need to use more care when removing lug nuts. Drives me crazy when I get my car back and wheels are marked up.
Lol, the irony is that he comments about the lugnuts being swollen. However, the main reason lugnuts get swollen is because they are blasted off and then blasted back on. They should be broken loose with a breaker bar then removed once jacked and then torqued back on by hand.
@@craigfin3222 Those nuts are steel with a chrome cap to make them look better. The steel underneath starts to rust and causes the swelling.
Another successful attack on another vehicle. I love the smell of victory in the morning!
I live in the north and I've never had an issue with rust or corrosion - but then we don't pour tons of salt on the roads here.
Ace Rimmer......What a guy!
A 3/8” extension is the best tool to put on the clips that hold the pins in a door on the chevy c/k series trucks.
I’m surprised you havnt made a video about putting chevy door by pins in.
Cotter pin equals bent nail or paperclip. Shade Tree central
Actually, as you have loosened the centre bolt of the rear bush, and installed the front bush bolt, they should be loosened, and only torqued/tightened once the weight of the car is on the right front suspension. This is pretty common practice for all rubber suspension bushes of this type. If you tighten the bush bolts with suspension fully extended, the rubber will be stressed when the car is on the ground, and likely leads to premature failing (tearing) of the rubber bushing. I am sure you yourself have noted this on your earlier vids!
Fake news
Ray it's great that you don't mind installing customer's parts! A lot of shops won't do that..........
The shop I go to will, but not unreasonably they won't warranty the parts. I had them put a clutch in my 96 Jeep XJ, I had the parts but after watching a few videos decided that was not a job I wanted to tackle on my gravel driveway. The parts went to a Habitat Restore.
When installing things with rubber bushing like a control arm, I've heard that final tightening of the bolts/nuts should be done with the weight of the car on the wheels. I assume that it's because of the position of the rubber bushing. If the wheels are hanging when tightened, the bushing rubber will be under stress when they experience the weight of the car. Is that true?
Yep, seen the effect of not doing this. The rubber bushing broke free inside the casing and started squeaking so it had to be done again.
Very true a 4 post lift is a good way if not the floor it is , those bushings won't last long
Absolutely true.
Yes the final tightening should be done with the vehicle on its wheels at normal ride height. Ray knows this and he also knows the car has to go to another location for a wheel alignment where the bushings will have to be loosened to perform the alignment. The bushings will be ok so long as large bumps are avoided. Large bumps could break the rubber free inside the bushing.
Just in case nobody else mentioned it , you need to re tighten the bolt on the end of the control arm that you loosened to align the rear mount bolts , great vid keep up the good work
Me too.
Also bushing bolts (both front and back) need tighten when suspension is compressed, then they last longer
Also, suspension should be tightened when loaded with vehicle weight.
Good Morning Ray..... Ray of Sunshine
Our vehicles up here in Wisconsin seriously look like that in 1 year here. Cars typically last about 5 Years here before they rot out. My brothers 2016 Silverado has very serious frame rot after just 6 Wisconsin salty winters.
Have we gone back to the 1970s? I remember cars rusting out in 5 years back then but in the 80s and 90s cars were going 10 years before rusting out. I think they’re using harsher calcium chloride, etc. Anyone notice this? If true it makes leasing a car in Wisconsin a good idea.
As my father would say, “Thaaaaat a boy…. Keep hammering that bolt till the threads are crushed.”
Love the new intro.
Loving the intro. Theme looks like it came from the 80's with a mix of Knight Rider and Miami Vice on it.
A good hardware store can sell you finishing nails by the piece. Those make great "cotter pins"! Just be sure to spray them with brake cleaner once a month!!
Ray you are the man for this job Ray.
YOU NEED A mosquito zapper to fill in for no phone . Plus they are good for moral , the zap makes you grin
Wow that whole trucks shiny new now
If Ray was working on Canadian cars he’d be reaching for that hammer and a torch all the time 😢 Rust never sleeps 😮
You need a lot of patience for the salt belt
@@Danimal100 and a bigger hammer
@@Danimal100 and use penetrating oil like Ray uses brake clean.
Like minnesota cars. Been looking for a cheap awd Equinox. No cheap ones in mn that are good
Some parts of Canada do not experience rusty cars
I've done that a few times.axel but loose .easy in.and easier on the body.cheers ray .don't forget lube when removing the nuts , saves our tools from working so hard .🍺🍺
You bring back memories of an East Coast Volvo and suspension bushings. Not fun, that was.
Add a long brass drift to your holiday shopping list.
Yeah! It’s Rainman Ray!
Love the intro!
Another great video Ray. It is nice not being interrupted by service advisors, eh? Thanks.
Yup, that is a winner for the next round of T-Shirts, "sometimes you just got to hammer something"
Sweet and easy in and out nice work
Cheers from Nova Scotia
Wow! It's so much better at 2x speed! 😁👍
Mr. Ray made a subconscious Muppet reference at 9:43..
THAT was definitely tried before... look at the hammering marks on the control arm. At my place previously started job can cost extra.
The was the piece de restistance yeah gravity I’m dead lol it’s perfect. More Rayisms they make my day.
Thanks for the entertainment.
New biz, going LIVE on UA-cam and a full family to boot. Please tell me you are taking enough breaks to clear your mind and relax. Don't burn out dude! Love this channel!
lol the intro was a nice touch goes well with your type of videos.
I have extension as extended hammer tool they be good for that … one problem with mine been used that much it no longer takes a socket on the end lol 🇦🇺
The intro is fantastic!!! Well done!!!
That little voice was saying...that cotter pin still looks OK.
Down south Ray has a closet full of brake clean! Up here in Ma , we have closets full of PB😅🤣
As in the good old days, nails make excellent cotter pins !!
The quality of nails has gone to pot these days. ;)
But I have never seen or heard gravity hit a single nail in Ray's garage! Makes me think he has none of them either.
Me too moment !
Nice job, but why not any lube or rust protection added? Instead of heavy use of brake clean, just a little grease in general, and some cheap rust protection as final act?
Reeeee The Paint on the Control Arm lmfao 🤣 @Rainman Ray's Repairs
....assuming the control arm does not need to be on the ground and levelled/loaded before tightening up the main bolts? Of course not...silly me for asking..
The answer to all jobs is having the right tools and flexible flangys👍🇬🇧🖖
Nice to see some company working with you ray,,
Keep it up
With love ❤️
We follow you from Saudi Arabia 🇸🇦
Looking forward to seeing that box of cotterpins within the next few vids.
Good video. Not all/many "straightforward seeming" jobs are not so straightforward....
That was short and sweet...like it's supposed to be right? Good stuff, thanks for sharing. Can't wait to see what's next.
Sitting here in a resort in Phuket Thailand. My neighbours probably think I'm rebuilding a car in this room. It's an improvement on the Hindu disco music they've been subjecting me to.
Its ok to Booger the threads slightly ,they will never be taken apart again!