I knock on the wall as I go along to find the studs. The bottom nail should catch the bottom plate. I'm not overly worried about missing a stud with this thin MDF since the caulking will hold more than the nails will.
The preference for 45 or 30 is true. That said the 30 is longer and does have a larger surface area. It is in the Math. BUT, aside from that an excellent instructional video.
I don't know if I would trust 22.5 with the thinner materials. Not enough glue surface to hold them together but might be OK for thicker material. I'm sure it's much easier to line up. I worked for a company that we cut them square and biscuit joined them together. We were trying to get them to stay together down long corridors in hotels.
You need to retire the Dewalt Brad nailer, then get the Milwaukee M18 Fuel Gen 2 18 Gauge Brad Nailer! It doesn’t have that annoying flywheel. It uses compressed nitrogen gas to power the striker. No wind up, nails as fast as you can pull the trigger, then it leaves behind beautiful nail holes!
As much as I would love to be able to afford to just buy the latest and greatest tools, it's not going to happen. I'm stuck with the DeWalt for awhile.
I think I’m going to go with wood glue (I’m assuming that’s the glue you were using). I’m using MDF, and got that CA glue that is amazing stuff. But, God help you if you don’t fit the pieces together right the first time. With this method, you’ve got some time to set (and adjust) it, if need be, then just tack/pin it in place once you’re satisfied, you’ve got it 99% of the way there. Your’s looks better than mine even after I used some Dap dry wall filler, and sanded mind. I may be over thinking it….but, that’s the only part of my project that’s giving me fits.
The joint won't match up perfectly and there will be a bit of a gap. You need to sand the joint to get it nice and flush. The dust from sanding mixes with the glue and fills the gap in. I usually don't re-prime that area, just hit it a couple extra times with the trim paint.
I use it. I like it for some stuff. With the splice I like the extra time to adjust. I like that the glue mixes with the dust while sanding to fill the void in the cut. Nothing wrong with it whatever works for you 👍
Not saying your doing anything wrong because your NOT. But mitered joints are so un-necessary. Its like the old wives tale if you leave a battery on concrete it will die. Yeah if you have an old battery with a metal shell. Mitered joints were from the old days with real wood that shrinks over time to help conceal the vertical crack it creates. This finger jointed pine and mdf stuff its totally un-necessary. For real if your using two pieces I would rather cut them 1/16 longer than the wall and glue the butt joint and the two walls puts pressure on the butt joint and you cannot get a tighter joint, its impossible plus your can tap the joint up,down,in out to perfection. Try doing that with a mitered joint thats just a titch too long. Ain't gonna happen. you will have one side proud of the other side and you cannot beat it into submission for anything..
Everyone posting videos about corners, when all I needed was this, thank you 😊
Happy to help!
Yes. we will go with a 45 It just takes me so long because I do not do it very often.
A "c" hair.......that was funny
That made me visit the comments
Facts only person I ever heard say it besides my crazy ass cousin 😂
I’ve heard it from multiple former supervisors but I never thought to check any of their tape measures
Thanks for the no nonsense instructions.
@@ElBarberino , ha! Same!
Happy to see I’m not the only one that measures in C hairs.
😆
Are P hairs the same as C hairs? Just wanna be sure I have the exact measurements. 😁
Thank You very much Sir!
No problem! Thanks for watching!
I avoid the whole problem and only work with walls 12’ and under😂
Lol, check out my video on "how to use a wood stretcher"
@@BrentDarlington Do they come in left handed models. I need one of those.
I’ve never heard anyone else use Dolabella auricularia (sea hare) in carpentry. Just kidding, your vid was great, thank you for sharing.
🤣🤣 a C hair. . It looked is good man👊
“ I have to go outside and shave a C hair off of it.” SUBSCRIBE!!!
I laughed when he said that. My dad used to say the same thing LOL
Good job
Are you nailing into stud or just drywall? I don't see any stud finder or marking so im assuming drywall
I knock on the wall as I go along to find the studs. The bottom nail should catch the bottom plate. I'm not overly worried about missing a stud with this thin MDF since the caulking will hold more than the nails will.
Always find and nail to studs.
The c hair made me spit my toothpaste out
LOL, I have so many questions about this comment
@@BrentDarlington I know exactly what you mean. My dad used to say that
The preference for 45 or 30 is true. That said the 30 is longer and does have a larger surface area. It is in the Math. BUT, aside from that an excellent instructional video.
Nice scarf joint. Have you tried cutting it at 22.5 degrees? I get really nice results from using that measurement.
I don't know if I would trust 22.5 with the thinner materials. Not enough glue surface to hold them together but might be OK for thicker material. I'm sure it's much easier to line up. I worked for a company that we cut them square and biscuit joined them together. We were trying to get them to stay together down long corridors in hotels.
is this just a regular 45 or is this a bevel cut. I am new to all this and I am going to be laying baseboards. please help...
Regular 45
all these are great for white trim but prefinished is much harder to make perfect. Or at last that it looks like one piece
Lucky for me that's in style around here. I may have to sub it out if it's wood lol
Will that electric nail gun shoot through metal bullnose corners?
Doubt it
@BrentDarlington I do it all the time. Of course I have a mikwaukee, can't speak for dewalts
Looks amazing and very professionally done 👍 what grit of sandpaper did you use to remove the glue on the scarf joint?
Thanks! 150 grit
You need to retire the Dewalt Brad nailer, then get the Milwaukee M18 Fuel Gen 2 18 Gauge Brad Nailer! It doesn’t have that annoying flywheel. It uses compressed nitrogen gas to power the striker. No wind up, nails as fast as you can pull the trigger, then it leaves behind beautiful nail holes!
As much as I would love to be able to afford to just buy the latest and greatest tools, it's not going to happen. I'm stuck with the DeWalt for awhile.
Looks great Brent!
@@BrentDarlington I enjoy my dewalt to and have no issue with the 'flywheel sound. It simply works just fine.
What’s a C hair?
Thicker than a "B" hair but thinner than a "D" hair
I think I’m going to go with wood glue (I’m assuming that’s the glue you were using). I’m using MDF, and got that CA glue that is amazing stuff. But, God help you if you don’t fit the pieces together right the first time. With this method, you’ve got some time to set (and adjust) it, if need be, then just tack/pin it in place once you’re satisfied, you’ve got it 99% of the way there. Your’s looks better than mine even after I used some Dap dry wall filler, and sanded mind. I may be over thinking it….but, that’s the only part of my project that’s giving me fits.
I always use wood glue for them. CA has its place but I agree, you need more time to adjust.
@@BrentDarlington 👍
Worlds slowest nail gun.
Yes.
Since I am the world's slowest nailer, it's a match made in heaven.
Wouldn’t you paint the boards before installing? Does it even matter?
It doesn't really matter. I usually do, just may not have for this video.
C Hair!! Hahahaha
You know who else is a base board. . .
YOUR MOM
That was a great joke
Wipe that glue off with a damp rag or some naptha rather than sanding off the primer.
The joint won't match up perfectly and there will be a bit of a gap. You need to sand the joint to get it nice and flush. The dust from sanding mixes with the glue and fills the gap in. I usually don't re-prime that area, just hit it a couple extra times with the trim paint.
No CA glue?
I use it. I like it for some stuff. With the splice I like the extra time to adjust. I like that the glue mixes with the dust while sanding to fill the void in the cut. Nothing wrong with it whatever works for you 👍
C-hair....dude!
Not saying your doing anything wrong because your NOT. But mitered joints are so un-necessary. Its like the old wives tale if you leave a battery on concrete it will die. Yeah if you have an old battery with a metal shell. Mitered joints were from the old days with real wood that shrinks over time to help conceal the vertical crack it creates. This finger jointed pine and mdf stuff its totally un-necessary. For real if your using two pieces I would rather cut them 1/16 longer than the wall and glue the butt joint and the two walls puts pressure on the butt joint and you cannot get a tighter joint, its impossible plus your can tap the joint up,down,in out to perfection. Try doing that with a mitered joint thats just a titch too long. Ain't gonna happen. you will have one side proud of the other side and you cannot beat it into submission for anything..
I’m putting in mdf boards now. I think I’ll stick to butt joints
A C hair lolll
I am sorry man, but that looks garbage. Only possible way is straight 90dgr cut joint and biscuit.
It's like 3/8" thick. How are you going to do a biscuit?
@@BrentDarlington …. or dowels. This profile is thin in the middle, so I agree. But dowels and wood glue. Majority of base is at least 1/2” tho.
C hair ?
Yes
@@BrentDarlington Looked a little bit more than a red C hair. Haven't heard that saying in a long time!
I did lol cuz I haven't heard it in years either
And it would say the reference of a c hair is probably not really appropriate...🙄