I want to lead a campaign for Texas basements! We should be doing this, especially in all the infill construction going up on small lots in the old, close-in burbs. Great space for mechanicals and storage, shops, etc. And Polywall is in Ennis!? Spectacular.
And a basement can sit on more solid soil, not clay that gets water logged and causes homes built on pier and beam to go way out of whack, constantly needing leveling. Or post tensioned slabs. My understanding is below four feet the ground doesn't move and why pole barns stay strong and plumb. Or am I wrong?
I used a system like this 23 years ago when I build my basement with ICF. I used 3/4inch washed gravel fill around my dimpled system. I used engineered panels above grade because at the time it was 20% cheaper than the ICF. My brother built his house all ICF all the way up. I would never built a house again without using ICF construction. Trust me here in Ohio we get temps from -10 to close to 100 degrees and I can honestly say that I don't regret using this type of construcion. Yes it costs a little more but between having all this foam in house and using Geothermal heating and cooling it doesn't take long for the return on investment. Unfortunately a couple of years ago we had a fire and the foam will not burn! It does shrivel up from the heat though. Was easy enough to replace the SIP panels that were damaged.
Seems like that dimple mat should have the nipples toward the concrete to hold the dimple mat off the concrete. Because the filter fabric will end up being pushed into the dimples or get full of dirt . With the dimple against the concrete the channel for water to flow down will always be open.
I think you are exactly right. Common problem of a general contractor not knowing how to properly install a specialized system. But then again most foundation waterproofing/repair companies are equally inept and at least they are trying here. I will give them that.
I've seen products that are intended to be installed dimples in. They come without any fabric layer for obvious reasons. This product is designed to be installed as shown dimples out. Like you said though I'm skeptical that a little fabric is going to do anything to help keep that soil out when back filled especially over time.
I too was looking for like minded people. I do not like the way they do/did this. The water won't be able percolate down to the drain tile along the 'poly wall' side. The flat side is glued to the 'poly wall'- leaving sealed little dimples in big wide areas of adhesive. Wouldn't be any different if you glued a 1×12 to the polywall around all the edges. Nothing will move easily through the areas they placed adhesive. It may even TRAP water between the polywall and the dimple mat, depending on if they go along all the edges. The dimples facing outward will be surrounded by stone and dirt once the felt fails to hold it back, so again, nothing will allow water to percolate easily down to the drain where you want it to go. Not to pick on this channel (cause I generally like it) but I can see the next step would be: "...now put a waterproof hard wall backer vinyl plywood, with antimicrobial semi sealing lattice vanes over the felt /dimple side, and voila! You are done!" The waterproof wall that costs a cool $1 million to do. This is NOT well thought-out. Pretty expensive too, considering it won't be doing ANYTHING in a few years.
I know this video was released 4 years ago, I have been researching this method of waterproofing ICF, one thing I couldn't find is the Pink Primer that you used to coat the ICF before applying the Poly Wall.
Thank you Matt. 20 years ago dimple matt was a pain to put on being able just spray and apply so much better. This series was very help for sealing up poured walls of all types.
What the hell are you talking about? Dimple mat has been routinely used for more than 40 years.Anyone with any knowledge of waterproofing takes dimple mat for granted. Anyone that thinks it is hard to install has zero knowledge of waterproofing. In the industry it is called drain mat
Matt, two questions ?? 1. Would you still apply this over an insulated poured cement, in-ground foundation? 2. If you insulate the foundation, which essentially acts as a water barrier itself, would you still also apply a stick-on or roll-on waterproofing membrane underneath the insulation panels?
It looks like on the joint, only the filter fabric overlaps like a shingle and the backing butts up together with no overlap. Maybe I’m seeing it wrong. If not, I think they should put a flat lip on the upper back side for the upper section to lay over, preventing water to enter at the seam. Probably overkill, but if you’re going that far...🤷🏽♂️ why not? Great videos!
We call it drain board or protection board. I love this type of work. Below grade wp. I also really enjoy working with traffic coatings, I'd maknly do those in parking structures. Edit: we also use the 3M glue that comes in a cylinder as well. Really gets the job done.
Will you go over properly waterproofing window and door openings and proper window door install for this ICF project? There is no good info out there for waterproofing openings on ICF.
Matt, have you seen, used or have an opinion about Form -A- Drain or Fast Foot Fabric footers? They both claim to be far superior to traditional footings for waterproofing but I can’t find an unbiased review.
No bugs live in mine. My top is completely open no sealing strip. Dimplex on bare concrete with minimal fasteners along the top. Basement is cool in summer and warm in winter. I believe the concrete foundation walls drying out has created more of a thermal break due to the porous nature of concrete.
I've been a huge fan of Matt's videos recently, but what I'm even more interested in is similar content with a focus on high-density housing, such as apartment blocks, condominiums, or public housing projects. Can anyone recommend a good channel for that topic?
I really hope we get to see a video about the transition from basement to siding. I’ve never seen a video like that, and I’m curious as to how it will work.
BuildBlock ICFs Do you have videos that show different products used on the upper exposed portion of ICF above grade ? There’s got to be new products out there better than parging.
Lots of these are "Extra" steps to really make a premium final product. The dimple roll stuff isn't excessively expensive. I've seen so many basements that leak that I'd spend the little bit extra to really go overkill like this and make sure there are no issues ever in the future. ICF really doesn't require any waterproofing you wouldn't do on a block or traditional form poured foundation.
I know some systems have a mold strip that lays over top that prevents debris from falling in. I’m Sure it reduces pests as well and I bet PolyWall probably has the same thing.
Ant colonies, yellow jacket nests, termite nets, any other bug that lives in a colony underground. I would assume they would rather move into an existing underground space rather than digging a fresh space.
What a great system, I would definitely consider that if I were to build. A year ago I just bought a duplex condo, we are high with great drainage, no water issues at all. I would like to finish the basement, I run a dehumidifier all spring and summer to keep the humidity at 45%. Concrete is porous and before I stud it, what would be the best treatment for the walls and floor? I live in southern Massachusetts. Thanks!
I’m looking to do some renovation on a 1923. My personal home. It needs leveled. Should I level and then poly/dimple. Or should I just replace the whole foundation wall and start from scratch?
Matt I have a basement with a perimeter drain... would this work as a continuous drainage mat / air seal down the interior walls of the basement to the perimeter drain itself? The perimeter drain will be hooked up to two sumps with airtight lids.
@@daveklein2826 The majority of the system is below grade you are correct. Are you suggesting that you would stop it some inches below grade and the ground covers the transition? I would assume that the dimple mat will come up 4-6" above grade thus a portion would stick out above that could be damaged by weed eaters and lawnmower not to mention looking unsightly. Or should you bring it all the way up to the bottom plate and then stucco over it.
Matt Risinger, Great video as always. I find myself coming back to a lot of videos because of the detail. I have wondered about something and have not seen your take on it. Below grade SIPS. There are a couple of companies that are doing this and wanted to get your take on the viability based on what they are doing and how it would be best to seal it from the soil much like being done to concrete or ICF.
My tech teacher told me he puts a coping at the bottom of his foundation wall. I think a trough or gutter system would also work well under that to displace the water
im surprised to see my late dad used this concept on our large balcony water proofing. basically concrete balcony, water proofing membrane, dimple mat and mesh, on top of that pavers stone. Paver stone keeps out the UV and its a killer detail. i took one paver stone off because it cracked, and the water proofing below it look almost brand new.
How much rain / snowfall do I need to worry about if I'm going to invest in what is an extra step where I am located. Where I am we receive only 6 in of water per year. If we got a hundred inches of water per year I could see the need for the Arroyo and the poylwall. How many inches of water do I need to worry about before doing this extra effort?
Matt, I have dmx above the basement floor level and a few inches up against the cement wall from below. I want to insulate and rock. Can I put a baseboard over the dmx? Should I use pcv or MDF ? I have a vinyl floor with cavities underneath to direct condensation.
Would this need to be done to a retaining wall if I were to make that an open area under ground courtyard, instead of having the back fill come up to the home, the back fill goes up to the retaining wall or is that a different process?
The manufacturer says polywall can be used on pretty much anything. They have different surface prep recommendations depending on what you are planning to adhere it to.
Great video, how much would this cost to do one wall, 32 ft, existing home, built in 1955, in upstate cold, wet, NY, and do you have a contact here that could do this work? Thank you
Why do some people have the dimple on the outside and others have it on the inside? If it's on the inside you can snap into the outside with the dimple board and do a tight fit.
So why would you apply the waterproofing membrane underneath the dimple mat? Couldn't you just apply the dimple mat and put the membrane on the section above that and use their 2200 fluid membrane along the seams?
actually I would put a price on it, by the sqft. we're talking about water proofing a foundation here, no space exploration. this system looks great, how much does it cost per sqft?
For those of us with wet, damp, un-repairable basements... convince your clients it's worth doing right. They can improve what is above ground later! You can't really dig the house back out and replace the basement....
HI Matt, Do you have any negative experiences with Dorken or Polywall? Is one system better than the other? I talked to Dorken rep. and he started talking about hilti nails in the foundation????
quick repost. im surprised to see my late dad used this concept on our large balcony water proofing. basically concrete balcony, water proofing membrane, dimple mat and mesh, on top of that pavers stone. Paver stone keeps out the UV and its a killer detail. i took one paver stone off because it cracked, and the water proofing below it look almost brand new.
As someone who knows nothing about home building, it seems crazy material sciences hasn’t gotten to the point where cement and foundation walls can be completely water resistant. (Disregarding the fact that we’d still want to direct water away from the house in general)
yes it would be too warm for the forms and also too much added pressure and would endure a number of blow outs as he mentions that could happen, better of with a higher psi concrete than 3,000 psi standard. I have worked with and used hydraulic cement.
@@Joshua79C i have studied icf blocks my self, and was hoping the heat of the cements would not melt the structural blocks , guess ill have to resort to my first plan . Sand mixed with wood glue add 1/2 part water andpart 1/2 cement and polyurethane as added hardner. Artificial sand rock
You can use standard cement, but certain hydraulic cement may get a bit too warm or exert pressure the foam blocks may not be able to handle, you can use any cement mix of at least 3,000 psi and up.
The problem is that most builders don't want to pay for this. They barely want to pay for the spray or roll on membrane. I have been waterproofing for 20 years and 95% of my jobs we just spray the walls and they backfill against it. That being said, just the spray is usually good enough I've never had a foundation fail or leak and I've done 5000+ in Massachusetts.
It would be great (for all of us that don't have access to the products that you are promoting) to provide a non commercial product solution that can be used instead.
1:30 Why dont you want to fill with big rocks? If the point is to maintain dimples, tiny rocks willl fill the space and defeat the purpose of dimples. Only rocks bigger than dimple spaces will keep the spaces open.
I don't think it's that the waterproofing can't get wet, it's more about controlling the water on the property. Additionally the air gap should help the underground part of the house be more conditioned. Controlling the water is the same reason we put in drainage ditches and gutters and stuff. It's not a bad thing.
Drainage board isn't waterproof. It just protects the water resistive membrane from mechanical damage, soil microorganisms, and high pressure. By your reasoning, siding is redundant, we should only use house wrap.
@asdf A good general contractor shouldn't have to put his hands on the tools. He should manage his people and subcontractors and should have the knowledge to know when something isn't right so that it can be fixed early. All of this provides a high value to the client, which is why they hired him to begin with.
@@jsierra1980 I would just send them this video and be like "I want this" lol. But yea would just send him this vid he'd probably dig all the content anyway
Well then lets hope the people I hire do this correctly, because if not there watching them all day, I wont know. So is this showing that houses done the last 10-20 years are done wrong because it doesnt have this dimple matt? And if you dont want water sitting against the foundation shouldnt the dirt and landscaping be angled away from the house?
never be the first through the door. with ICF foundation the drain wrap will eventually push into the styrofoam reducing the air gap and possibly damaging the waterproof membrane. i think those products are superior on a wood or conventional concrete foundation. also, mice love living in styrofoam
I hope you know that you are not supposed to just butt the plastic at the seam and overlap the fabric flap. I'm pretty sure you are supposed to overlap the plastic a couple inches and snap it together like Legos.
You could put that system in place, but how successful will it be with all those joints between panels? Why don't you just clean off the concrete, spray foam the entire exterior of the basement from the lower plate down and over top of the footing...and DONE...one piece, no leaks, and insulates from heat and cold. This is what I did around my old basement (1950's) and it is by far the warmest room in my house in winter ( I live in Snow Lake , Manitoba, Canada, where we have 6 months of winter and minus 35 degree Fahrenheit temperatures for weeks on end). I should also mention that because my lot slopes two ways, part of my basement is above grade...and it's still incredibly warm. You should try it sometime, it would probably be more cost effective and quicker with a better result. Cheers from Canada!
I agree. A thick plastic membfane over the water proofing to prevent is from damage and a stone backfill from footer to daylight will do the same but on a far more massive scale. I can see this as an alternative where the foundation ends nearly on the property line or something and you have inches to play with. But if you are backfilling with stone this seems pointless.
33 year waterproofing here, would not recommend this sytem, in Michigan we use spray rubber- housegusrd and normal 2” rigid prior to backfill and of course stone and tile and bleeders, with straw wrap, he does not know as much as you all give him credit for, , , he neve4 mentioned bleeders, scares me so many believe this system, I do it for a living,,,Aquaguard waterproofing system’s,,,,
I remember the days of the blogs where paid undisclosed sponsorships were rampant. Which is why I cringe at things like your Toyota sponsorship although this is pretty okay. Its very simple: Disclose, keep it relevant, don't shill, sponsor the product not the brand. Things like excessive Skillshare ads are cancer.
It is hilarious that from the very beginning of the video there is a fatal flaw in the waterproofing. It obviously was not “rolled” correctly. There is a huge birds mouth at the seem. He acts like an expert, but he has Zero knowledge of waterproofing.
If you guys are looking for good building content and want your house done right. Watch all this guy's videos. Matt Risinger is the man.
I want to lead a campaign for Texas basements! We should be doing this, especially in all the infill construction going up on small lots in the old, close-in burbs. Great space for mechanicals and storage, shops, etc. And Polywall is in Ennis!? Spectacular.
And a basement can sit on more solid soil, not clay that gets water logged and causes homes built on pier and beam to go way out of whack, constantly needing leveling. Or post tensioned slabs. My understanding is below four feet the ground doesn't move and why pole barns stay strong and plumb. Or am I wrong?
I used a system like this 23 years ago when I build my basement with ICF. I used 3/4inch washed gravel fill around my dimpled system. I used engineered panels above grade because at the time it was 20% cheaper than the ICF. My brother built his house all ICF all the way up. I would never built a house again without using ICF construction. Trust me here in Ohio we get temps from -10 to close to 100 degrees and I can honestly say that I don't regret using this type of construcion. Yes it costs a little more but between having all this foam in house and using Geothermal heating and cooling it doesn't take long for the return on investment. Unfortunately a couple of years ago we had a fire and the foam will not burn! It does shrivel up from the heat though. Was easy enough to replace the SIP panels that were damaged.
Seems like that dimple mat should have the nipples toward the concrete to hold the dimple mat off the concrete. Because the filter fabric will end up being pushed into the dimples or get full of dirt . With the dimple against the concrete the channel for water to flow down will always be open.
I think you are exactly right. Common problem of a general contractor not knowing how to properly install a specialized system.
But then again most foundation waterproofing/repair companies are equally inept and at least they are trying here. I will give them that.
I was just thinking the same thing, and was scaring the comments to see of anyone had an opinion on it. Thanks 👍
I've seen products that are intended to be installed dimples in. They come without any fabric layer for obvious reasons.
This product is designed to be installed as shown dimples out.
Like you said though I'm skeptical that a little fabric is going to do anything to help keep that soil out when back filled especially over time.
I too was looking for like minded people. I do not like the way they do/did this. The water won't be able percolate down to the drain tile along the 'poly wall' side. The flat side is glued to the 'poly wall'- leaving sealed little dimples in big wide areas of adhesive. Wouldn't be any different if you glued a 1×12 to the polywall around all the edges. Nothing will move easily through the areas they placed adhesive. It may even TRAP water between the polywall and the dimple mat, depending on if they go along all the edges.
The dimples facing outward will be surrounded by stone and dirt once the felt fails to hold it back, so again, nothing will allow water to percolate easily down to the drain where you want it to go.
Not to pick on this channel (cause I generally like it) but I can see the next step would be: "...now put a waterproof hard wall backer vinyl plywood, with antimicrobial semi sealing lattice vanes over the felt /dimple side, and voila! You are done!"
The waterproof wall that costs a cool $1 million to do.
This is NOT well thought-out. Pretty expensive too, considering it won't be doing ANYTHING in a few years.
DRAINAGE EXCELLENCE!!!
Thanks MATT R!
Protecting from the outside is the way for foundations. it seems like quality ideas on Matt's show. I like.
I know this video was released 4 years ago, I have been researching this method of waterproofing ICF, one thing I couldn't find is the Pink Primer that you used to coat the ICF before applying the Poly Wall.
They sell it on their website
Thank you Matt. 20 years ago dimple matt was a pain to put on being able just spray and apply so much better. This series was very help for sealing up poured walls of all types.
What the hell are you talking about? Dimple mat has been routinely used for more than 40 years.Anyone with any knowledge of waterproofing takes dimple mat for granted. Anyone that thinks it is hard to install has zero knowledge of waterproofing. In the industry it is called drain mat
Well thought out as usual. Also answered a concern I had of keeping the poly wall from being scared in the backfill and compaction process. Love it!
Matt, two questions ??
1. Would you still apply this over an insulated poured cement, in-ground foundation?
2. If you insulate the foundation, which essentially acts as a water barrier itself, would you still also apply a stick-on or roll-on waterproofing membrane underneath the insulation panels?
It looks like on the joint, only the filter fabric overlaps like a shingle and the backing butts up together with no overlap. Maybe I’m seeing it wrong. If not, I think they should put a flat lip on the upper back side for the upper section to lay over, preventing water to enter at the seam. Probably overkill, but if you’re going that far...🤷🏽♂️ why not? Great videos!
Looked to me that the top of the base wall is missing about 2" of dimple 6:05, so I would assume it is meant to overlap that as well.
I wish I would've found this video before I started working for a tight knit waterproofing company 😵💫😵💫🤣🤣 instant subscribe
Thank you for using our STA'-PUT Quick Grip adhesive, Matt!
We call it drain board or protection board. I love this type of work. Below grade wp. I also really enjoy working with traffic coatings, I'd maknly do those in parking structures.
Edit: we also use the 3M glue that comes in a cylinder as well. Really gets the job done.
This channel is a master class! Thanks Matt!!!
If this was in a cooler climate, would what insulation would you use and where would you put it?
Arroyo = stream. Zanja = ditch. Good video.
Will you go over properly waterproofing window and door openings and proper window door install for this ICF project? There is no good info out there for waterproofing openings on ICF.
Matt, have you seen, used or have an opinion about Form -A- Drain or Fast Foot Fabric footers? They both claim to be far superior to traditional footings for waterproofing but I can’t find an unbiased review.
No bugs live in mine. My top is completely open no sealing strip. Dimplex on bare concrete with minimal fasteners along the top. Basement is cool in summer and warm in winter. I believe the concrete foundation walls drying out has created more of a thermal break due to the porous nature of concrete.
I've been a huge fan of Matt's videos recently, but what I'm even more interested in is similar content with a focus on high-density housing, such as apartment blocks, condominiums, or public housing projects. Can anyone recommend a good channel for that topic?
Are you going to show us what goes above ground on this build so we can see exactly how to UV protect the exposed Polywall?
Most just use Tyvek or similar covering.
I really hope we get to see a video about the transition from basement to siding. I’ve never seen a video like that, and I’m curious as to how it will work.
Hey Jack! We'll be documenting the entire build of this project over on our channel.
I will follow you!
BuildBlock ICFs Do you have videos that show different products used on the upper exposed portion of ICF above grade ?
There’s got to be new products out there better than parging.
Doing the exact same system on a custom in Lago Vista, TX! Thanks Matt!
So many steps to finish this ICF wall foundation, I wonder if they can simplify it to try reduce the cost.
Lots of these are "Extra" steps to really make a premium final product. The dimple roll stuff isn't excessively expensive.
I've seen so many basements that leak that I'd spend the little bit extra to really go overkill like this and make sure there are no issues ever in the future.
ICF really doesn't require any waterproofing you wouldn't do on a block or traditional form poured foundation.
What keeps the bugs from moving into the dimple mat? Seems like it would be a great home for many types of underground bugs.
Is that bad?
#freebughousing
Robert, what’s the concern? This is Al board of the waterproofing so I don’t see why it would matter. Thanks for watching. Matt
I know some systems have a mold strip that lays over top that prevents debris from falling in. I’m Sure it reduces pests as well and I bet PolyWall probably has the same thing.
Ant colonies, yellow jacket nests, termite nets, any other bug that lives in a colony underground. I would assume they would rather move into an existing underground space rather than digging a fresh space.
How does this mitigate heavy saturated soils from pushing on the foundation wall?
What a great system, I would definitely consider that if I were to build. A year ago I just bought a duplex condo, we are high with great drainage, no water issues at all. I would like to finish the basement, I run a dehumidifier all spring and summer to keep the humidity at 45%. Concrete is porous and before I stud it, what would be the best treatment for the walls and floor? I live in southern Massachusetts. Thanks!
I’m looking to do some renovation on a 1923. My personal home. It needs leveled. Should I level and then poly/dimple. Or should I just replace the whole foundation wall and start from scratch?
Matt I have a basement with a perimeter drain... would this work as a continuous drainage mat / air seal down the interior walls of the basement to the perimeter drain itself? The perimeter drain will be hooked up to two sumps with airtight lids.
Man...
ICF with a nice open floor plan seems the way to go right now with lumber prices out of control...
17 people with thumbs-down don’t like building a house the better way. Must be production home builders that stick to minimum code
Nope. Look closely at what they are doing. This is a very poor setup.
Can you do some videos on how people are covering this system above grade?
Normally dimple mat/ drain board isnt used above grade
Kinda my point.
It's below grade
@@daveklein2826 The majority of the system is below grade you are correct. Are you suggesting that you would stop it some inches below grade and the ground covers the transition? I would assume that the dimple mat will come up 4-6" above grade thus a portion would stick out above that could be damaged by weed eaters and lawnmower not to mention looking unsightly. Or should you bring it all the way up to the bottom plate and then stucco over it.
@@finieclimber all of the system is at grade and below
Matt Risinger, Great video as always. I find myself coming back to a lot of videos because of the detail. I have wondered about something and have not seen your take on it. Below grade SIPS. There are a couple of companies that are doing this and wanted to get your take on the viability based on what they are doing and how it would be best to seal it from the soil much like being done to concrete or ICF.
My tech teacher told me he puts a coping at the bottom of his foundation wall. I think a trough or gutter system would also work well under that to displace the water
im surprised to see my late dad used this concept on our large balcony water proofing. basically concrete balcony, water proofing membrane, dimple mat and mesh, on top of that pavers stone. Paver stone keeps out the UV and its a killer detail. i took one paver stone off because it cracked, and the water proofing below it look almost brand new.
How much rain / snowfall do I need to worry about if I'm going to invest in what is an extra step where I am located.
Where I am we receive only 6 in of water per year. If we got a hundred inches of water per year I could see the need for the Arroyo and the poylwall. How many inches of water do I need to worry about before doing this extra effort?
I used Delta Drain on my 1970 bungalow all the way around. I I think the Peel and stick with a dimple membrane is a tad excessive.
Matt, I have dmx above the basement floor level and a few inches up against the cement wall from below. I want to insulate and rock. Can I put a baseboard over the dmx? Should I use pcv or MDF ? I have a vinyl floor with cavities underneath to direct condensation.
If you use a sump pump do NOT forget to use a check valve in you plumbing that goes out from your pump. Other wise you'll burn it up
Would this need to be done to a retaining wall if I were to make that an open area under ground courtyard, instead of having the back fill come up to the home, the back fill goes up to the retaining wall or is that a different process?
What is the best way to waterproofing, using the trem drain and insulating with 2" foam board?
What's the difference between using this and the traditional spray tar
How long will spray adhesive last keeping all of this up?
Once backfilled it'll be pressed against the foundation and you don't need to worry about the adhesive.
I have dmx above basement floor from outside wall. Can I build a wall over it?
Can Polywall work on block foundation or would you recommend a product like Bakor Aqua-Bloc 770-06
instead?
The manufacturer says polywall can be used on pretty much anything. They have different surface prep recommendations depending on what you are planning to adhere it to.
Does the water come out at base if the dimple board?
@mattrisinger perhaps when the smoke clears you head to Mexico beach fl for a video on the few still standing concrete homes
Awesome system and all but They make this in Texas but do they sell it in Montreal 🇨🇦?
I'm getting ready to install this system. Where can you purchase "stay put". Having trouble finding it
Goto The PolyWall website and use the Contact Us tab. Call them for suppliers
Great video, how much would this cost to do one wall, 32 ft, existing home, built in 1955, in upstate cold, wet, NY, and do you have a contact here that could do this work? Thank you
Why do some people have the dimple on the outside and others have it on the inside? If it's on the inside you can snap into the outside with the dimple board and do a tight fit.
Wounder what kind of adhesion integrity we would achieve in the winter months in the NW when we have 100+ days of rain in temps just above freezing.
It's below grade with backfill pressing against it
@@daveklein2826- i know, right??? Wow. Just wow.
I've did this over 18 years
It was very use full for me thanks sir
So why would you apply the waterproofing membrane underneath the dimple mat? Couldn't you just apply the dimple mat and put the membrane on the section above that and use their 2200 fluid membrane along the seams?
Hi Matt great video ! Can u pur stucco on top of the material
It's below grade
Is there cheaper way to apply adhesive other than spray gun? The adhesive with spray gun costs a whopping $1000.00
More great content Matt👏
omg new products! i'm fully entering a cynical state... how much for the adhesive? my clients can't afford this !
Not a new product and you cannot put a price on proper engineering.
actually I would put a price on it, by the sqft. we're talking about water proofing a foundation here, no space exploration. this system looks great, how much does it cost per sqft?
For those of us with wet, damp, un-repairable basements... convince your clients it's worth doing right. They can improve what is above ground later! You can't really dig the house back out and replace the basement....
@@thedadchronicles- actually, if you look closely....this is not proper engineering.
I know it's off topic but what in your opinion is the best roofing material?
How do you add insulation to this system? Probably between the drain board and the wall right?
He was attaching to an ICF foundation
HI Matt, Do you have any negative experiences with Dorken or Polywall? Is one system better than the other? I talked to Dorken rep. and he started talking about hilti nails in the foundation????
How do you deal with outside corners with a variable grade?
I see a double drain pipe (tile) in the video, why two pipes??
How long is the functional lifespan of this system?
quick repost.
im surprised to see my late dad used this concept on our large balcony water proofing. basically concrete balcony, water proofing membrane, dimple mat and mesh, on top of that pavers stone. Paver stone keeps out the UV and its a killer detail. i took one paver stone off because it cracked, and the water proofing below it look almost brand new.
How long will that plastic stuff last before it degrades and your wall falls off.
I like the system
Awesome video
Great video!
As someone who knows nothing about home building, it seems crazy material sciences hasn’t gotten to the point where cement and foundation walls can be completely water resistant. (Disregarding the fact that we’d still want to direct water away from the house in general)
Where can I buy the poly wall arroyo materials to water proof my wall
Use the Google machine
Why dident you use hydraulic cement ? Dose it get to hot for the icf forms ?
yes it would be too warm for the forms and also too much added pressure and would endure a number of blow outs as he mentions that could happen, better of with a higher psi concrete than 3,000 psi standard. I have worked with and used hydraulic cement.
@@Joshua79C i have studied icf blocks my self, and was hoping the heat of the cements would not melt the structural blocks , guess ill have to resort to my first plan . Sand mixed with wood glue add 1/2 part water andpart 1/2 cement and polyurethane as added hardner. Artificial sand rock
You can use standard cement, but certain hydraulic cement may get a bit too warm or exert pressure the foam blocks may not be able to handle, you can use any cement mix of at least 3,000 psi and up.
The problem is that most builders don't want to pay for this. They barely want to pay for the spray or roll on membrane. I have been waterproofing for 20 years and 95% of my jobs we just spray the walls and they backfill against it. That being said, just the spray is usually good enough I've never had a foundation fail or leak and I've done 5000+ in Massachusetts.
It would be great (for all of us that don't have access to the products that you are promoting) to provide a non commercial product solution that can be used instead.
Use the Google machine
@@daveklein2826 assuming as if all viewers are located in the USA with all your fancy building supply stores, products and systems.
@@MyMotherWasaNinja so you want him to tell you whats available in your country? LMAO
@@daveklein2826 infomercial shill
Is all this extra expense and effort necessary. What are most builders useing today?
1:30 Why dont you want to fill with big rocks? If the point is to maintain dimples, tiny rocks willl fill the space and defeat the purpose of dimples. Only rocks bigger than dimple spaces will keep the spaces open.
So the water proofing can't get wet a lot so the waterproofing needs it's own waterproofing. Got it.
I don't think it's that the waterproofing can't get wet, it's more about controlling the water on the property. Additionally the air gap should help the underground part of the house be more conditioned. Controlling the water is the same reason we put in drainage ditches and gutters and stuff. It's not a bad thing.
Drainage board isn't waterproof. It just protects the water resistive membrane from mechanical damage, soil microorganisms, and high pressure.
By your reasoning, siding is redundant, we should only use house wrap.
The house is in Atlanta, not much freezing going on in the south.
mold trap, layers in layer on layer of shit.
Water proofing systems NEED a drainage system to prevent hydraulic pressure from destroying the foundation.
New drinking game: take a shot every time Matt says ‘detail’ 😀
Or “very interesting “
Matt Risinger Ha! Yes. Thanks for the great content as always!
@asdf A good general contractor shouldn't have to put his hands on the tools. He should manage his people and subcontractors and should have the knowledge to know when something isn't right so that it can be fixed early. All of this provides a high value to the client, which is why they hired him to begin with.
My understanding is most of these mats fail over a 10 year period or so. Is this true?
Can you tell me why you wouldn't just add xypex to the concrete mix ?
Water can still follow all of the plastic ICF ties that go between the forms. Doesn't matter if the concrete is water proof.
Good point. But then there has to be a way to seal in between each block before its seated.
Why not just use Polyguard?? Same company
How do you drink this system up with your builder
If they don’t know about it.
@@jsierra1980 I would just send them this video and be like "I want this" lol. But yea would just send him this vid he'd probably dig all the content anyway
Well then lets hope the people I hire do this correctly, because if not there watching them all day, I wont know. So is this showing that houses done the last 10-20 years are done wrong because it doesnt have this dimple matt? And if you dont want water sitting against the foundation shouldnt the dirt and landscaping be angled away from the house?
Cost?
never be the first through the door. with ICF foundation the drain wrap will eventually push into the styrofoam reducing the air gap and possibly damaging the waterproof membrane. i think those products are superior on a wood or conventional concrete foundation. also, mice love living in styrofoam
all your videos so far are good even though theres no music
I hope you know that you are not supposed to just butt the plastic at the seam and overlap the fabric flap. I'm pretty sure you are supposed to overlap the plastic a couple inches and snap it together like Legos.
Jab zayada barish hota he tab zayada pani aata he. Keep in mind. Don't forget.
You could put that system in place, but how successful will it be with all those joints between panels? Why don't you just clean off the concrete, spray foam the entire exterior of the basement from the lower plate down and over top of the footing...and DONE...one piece, no leaks, and insulates from heat and cold. This is what I did around my old basement (1950's) and it is by far the warmest room in my house in winter ( I live in Snow Lake , Manitoba, Canada, where we have 6 months of winter and minus 35 degree Fahrenheit temperatures for weeks on end). I should also mention that because my lot slopes two ways, part of my basement is above grade...and it's still incredibly warm. You should try it sometime, it would probably be more cost effective and quicker with a better result. Cheers from Canada!
Watch the previous two videos please before I go on
With gravel around the wall, I don’t see why this would be necessary.
I agree. A thick plastic membfane over the water proofing to prevent is from damage and a stone backfill from footer to daylight will do the same but on a far more massive scale. I can see this as an alternative where the foundation ends nearly on the property line or something and you have inches to play with. But if you are backfilling with stone this seems pointless.
1:17 double doodie......;)
*Watches video... Looks at last name*
oh dang....coincidences
Best to just build above ground. There are too many issues to worry about otherwise.
33 year waterproofing here, would not recommend this sytem, in Michigan we use spray rubber- housegusrd and normal 2” rigid prior to backfill and of course stone and tile and bleeders, with straw wrap, he does not know as much as you all give him credit for, , , he neve4 mentioned bleeders, scares me so many believe this system, I do it for a living,,,Aquaguard waterproofing system’s,,,,
/
I remember the days of the blogs where paid undisclosed sponsorships were rampant. Which is why I cringe at things like your Toyota sponsorship although this is pretty okay. Its very simple: Disclose, keep it relevant, don't shill, sponsor the product not the brand. Things like excessive Skillshare ads are cancer.
Why are you cutting it why don't you roll it out
It is hilarious that from the very beginning of the video there is a fatal flaw in the waterproofing. It obviously was not “rolled” correctly. There is a huge birds mouth at the seem. He acts like an expert, but he has Zero knowledge of waterproofing.
Ewwww, masks....don’t spray stuff without wearing face protection. As Mom might say....you'll get pneumonia.
first