I use cheap vanish flouro on some rods. It all depends what lures or baits you use. I fish wacky and shakey and have no problems. Toss a crankbait and watch the twist develop.
I've caught 5 lb bass using drag, never a problem. I use braid to fluro using an FG knot. Never had one fail. Reel handle feels better to me between my ring and pinky finger. Just what works for me.
I watch all of Randy’s videos and have learned a ton from him. However, I have to respectfully disagree on his 100% fluoro advice. A braid to fluoro leader has allowed me to cast so much further and smoother with a lot less tangles. Having to retie a new leader is a downside and an extra step, but I don’t mind as much and it helps me practice my Alberto knot.
I'm a straight braid kinda guy. The leader can cause tangles still and fish still break off. Caught a 7.3 on dropshot with straight braid this week. I'd rather lose a few fish when they possibly see the line than 100% lose fish when they jump and land on my like and break it. If I had a leader I would not have been able to pull that big bass away from the deep cover it was moving towards. Braid for life.
@@AyCee21 I broke a huge one off a month or so ago using braid to floro and decided no more. I always preferred straight braid but that was the end of it. Big old bass jumped and landed ON the line and broke it I estimate 6 or 7 plus and I had just re tied. As long as you use a dark green line I'm convinced it doesn't lose that many bites and it's worth it. In addition the extra feel you lose with the floro leader is AMAZING you lose so much feel. I was throwing a crankbait and I could feel every knock as it swam. Then I put on a leader about 8 feet long. The feeling was cut in HALF I swear. To each their own do what works where you are. But for me it's not a question anymore braid and nothing but.
@@flaminggorilla909nice! I think it also depends on the rest of one’s set up. I had a 6.5 jump out of the water and hammer my worm while I was doing the figure 8 technique. I also had him pinned in the bushes and had to wait for an angler nearby to come give me a hand cause I was fishing off of a pier and didn’t have the angle to flip him over. This was all on braid to fluoro. Also, not everyone ties their leaders the same, which can lead to different results.
I gotta practice the backreelin thing more in my personal fishin' so I don't have to strip line when I get a big one. strippin' works, but that old- fashioned back reel works& seems more intuitive to the pressure fish put on the line.
I am 78 years old and have been fish longer than Randy has been alive. I grew up in western Pa. using a spinning real on a 6' light action rod throwing hardware at trout in rocky streams that were 2-3 feet deep.. Needless to say I have used every line ever made and fluorocarbon line on a 1000 series real is an absolute nightmare. That crap wound on a spool that small has more memory than a herd of elephants after several hours of use. Now I use nothing but braid. I use Ohero 10lb that has a line diameter of 1 lb. mono. You can't get any smaller than that and it has ZERO MEMORY AND ZERO STRETCH. it's only flaw is it is damn near impossible to see. My biggest problem with the fluorocarbon gimmick is the invisibility crap. Bass will readily hit a spinner bait that looks like a license plate wearing a dress, or a. . crank bait that looks like a neon light bulb, but the industry wants us to believe they are petrified of a piece on fishing line than is .012 mm in diameter.
I have a hard time with “back reeling”. I understand the concept of better fish control, but when a big spot or striper decides he wants to run, I can’t back reel fast enough to keep up with the bass! I always bust my knuckles with the reel handle getting out of control. These fish fights are not a slow back and forth tug of war.
I've never had issues using the drag on my Daiwa BGs and Saltists and there's no way I can back reel on a yellowtail jack or any of the tuna species over here in So Cal. I landed a 300+ lb giant black seabass on my Saltist 4500 on 25lb fluorocarbon leader using the drag. I'm assuming you're mostly talking about freshwater species?
I tried straight fluorocarbon on my spinning reel. It worked fine for that day but, after picking it back up and fishing a few days later, I encountered MAJOR COILING. Tons of small circular loops were in my line. No thank you plus, who can afford to throw fluorocarbon away like that?! Also, I held the Tatula 3000 and the Shimano Stradic FM 3000 spinning reels this weekend. the spool size on them is very small and, I could see losing a lot of casting distance from my current Daiwa BG 3000. I'd have to get the 4000 model of the Daiwa Tatula or the Stradic FM just to have the same sized spool I have with my Daiwa BG 3000 now! In summary, the 3000's are too small of you're looking for a good sized spool for casting distance.
Robert I feel your pain with the cost of fluorocarbon. Ive found that some brands are stiffer than others. I use Seaguar red label and haven't had any problems. Just my two cents. 👍👍👍
What the hell are you guys smoking over there in the states. Straight fluorocarbon, back winding while locking the drag knob?... If you pull that where I come from you'll be committed to an asylum.
Here is my pro tip: Never spool your reel with straight flourocarbon unless you get your line for free
Agreed but I've had no issues with 6lb or lighter.
I use cheap vanish flouro on some rods. It all depends what lures or baits you use. I fish wacky and shakey and have no problems. Toss a crankbait and watch the twist develop.
Use a backer line fill spool around half way then straight floro?
I typically use the cheap berkely floro& it works fine. just spritz it w reel magic day before you go fishin
I don't have the sensitivity with fluorocarbon.
I've caught 5 lb bass using drag, never a problem. I use braid to fluro using an FG knot. Never had one fail. Reel handle feels better to me between my ring and pinky finger. Just what works for me.
I watch all of Randy’s videos and have learned a ton from him. However, I have to respectfully disagree on his 100% fluoro advice. A braid to fluoro leader has allowed me to cast so much further and smoother with a lot less tangles. Having to retie a new leader is a downside and an extra step, but I don’t mind as much and it helps me practice my Alberto knot.
I'm a straight braid kinda guy. The leader can cause tangles still and fish still break off. Caught a 7.3 on dropshot with straight braid this week. I'd rather lose a few fish when they possibly see the line than 100% lose fish when they jump and land on my like and break it. If I had a leader I would not have been able to pull that big bass away from the deep cover it was moving towards. Braid for life.
@@flaminggorilla909to each his own, I guess. I’ve caught 6-8lbers and never broke off.
@@AyCee21 I broke a huge one off a month or so ago using braid to floro and decided no more. I always preferred straight braid but that was the end of it. Big old bass jumped and landed ON the line and broke it I estimate 6 or 7 plus and I had just re tied. As long as you use a dark green line I'm convinced it doesn't lose that many bites and it's worth it. In addition the extra feel you lose with the floro leader is AMAZING you lose so much feel. I was throwing a crankbait and I could feel every knock as it swam. Then I put on a leader about 8 feet long. The feeling was cut in HALF I swear. To each their own do what works where you are. But for me it's not a question anymore braid and nothing but.
@@flaminggorilla909nice! I think it also depends on the rest of one’s set up. I had a 6.5 jump out of the water and hammer my worm while I was doing the figure 8 technique. I also had him pinned in the bushes and had to wait for an angler nearby to come give me a hand cause I was fishing off of a pier and didn’t have the angle to flip him over. This was all on braid to fluoro. Also, not everyone ties their leaders the same, which can lead to different results.
@@AyCee21 Fg knot never breaks. The issue for me is the weaker more brittle line. Like you said to each their own. GL man catch some big ones!
Thanks for the tips Randy.
I use the drag on spinning reels for peacock bass big fish never never had a problem or lost fish
I gotta practice the backreelin thing more in my personal fishin' so I don't have to strip line when I get a big one. strippin' works, but that old- fashioned back reel works& seems more intuitive to the pressure fish put on the line.
This guy showing all the sauce and trimming rod length 1" at a time. Tremendous
Straight mono!
Randy, do you flip the switch to during the fight or do you just always have the reel in back reel mode?
I fish braid with mono or fluoro leader prefer the greater distance in casting and the instant setting of the hook 🤗
The proper way to hold any fishing reel is how you feel comfortable not what other people tell you.
I am 78 years old and have been fish longer than Randy has been alive. I grew up in western Pa. using a spinning real on a 6' light action rod throwing hardware at trout in rocky streams that were 2-3 feet deep.. Needless to say I have used every line ever made and fluorocarbon line on a 1000 series real is an absolute nightmare. That crap wound on a spool that small has more memory than a herd of elephants after several hours of use. Now I use nothing but braid. I use Ohero 10lb that has a line diameter of 1 lb. mono. You can't get any smaller than that and it has ZERO MEMORY AND ZERO STRETCH. it's only flaw is it is damn near impossible to see.
My biggest problem with the fluorocarbon gimmick is the invisibility crap. Bass will readily hit a spinner bait that looks like a license plate wearing a dress, or a. . crank bait that looks like a neon light bulb, but the industry wants us to believe they are petrified of a piece on fishing line than is .012 mm in diameter.
I have a hard time with “back reeling”. I understand the concept of better fish control, but when a big spot or striper decides he wants to run, I can’t back reel fast enough to keep up with the bass! I always bust my knuckles with the reel handle getting out of control. These fish fights are not a slow back and forth tug of war.
I've never had issues using the drag on my Daiwa BGs and Saltists and there's no way I can back reel on a yellowtail jack or any of the tuna species over here in So Cal. I landed a 300+ lb giant black seabass on my Saltist 4500 on 25lb fluorocarbon leader using the drag. I'm assuming you're mostly talking about freshwater species?
Never tried back before.
back reel are for rookies
I tried straight fluorocarbon on my spinning reel. It worked fine for that day but, after picking it back up and fishing a few days later, I encountered MAJOR COILING. Tons of small circular loops were in my line. No thank you plus, who can afford to throw fluorocarbon away like that?! Also, I held the Tatula 3000 and the Shimano Stradic FM 3000 spinning reels this weekend. the spool size on them is very small and, I could see losing a lot of casting distance from my current Daiwa BG 3000. I'd have to get the 4000 model of the Daiwa Tatula or the Stradic FM just to have the same sized spool I have with my Daiwa BG 3000 now! In summary, the 3000's are too small of you're looking for a good sized spool for casting distance.
Robert I feel your pain with the cost of fluorocarbon. Ive found that some brands are stiffer than others. I use Seaguar red label and haven't had any problems. Just my two cents. 👍👍👍
What the hell are you guys smoking over there in the states. Straight fluorocarbon, back winding while locking the drag knob?... If you pull that where I come from you'll be committed to an asylum.