Thanks for the video. Very informative. Why do you say not to use Silicon Sealant? Is that just on the roof, or anywhere on the coach? thanks for sharing
I was waiting for someone to ask this question, because I wanted to pin this question and my answer so it would appear at the top of all comments. You don’t want do use silicone sealant anywhere on the RV and here’s why: Silicone usually does not have UV protection. But even if you happen to find a silicone product that does have UV protection properties, once silicone has been applied to ANYTHING and you come back later to do any repairs, it's nearly impossible to scrap and remove it all off to reapply new material. There's always some residual silicone left behind on the old surface which makes adhering the new silicone product unable to adhere properly. Silicone won't adhere to itself either.
@@RVstreet - it's important to know however, that Winnebago uses silicone sealant from the factory. So if you have one, do not use dicor unless you take all of the silicone off and clean it up first, like you have done. Dicor does not stick to silicone.
@@MrRMB1 So let me elaborate a little more on this for others: Remember our coach is a 2012. I don't know what type of self leveling sealant they used then. But for me it didn't matter. I stripped all the old sealant off. Then sanded the entire roof. Then wiped down with acetone, then cleaned it with the Dicor cleaner. So I started from scratch. Once the roof was down to bare bones, then I laid down the eternabond tape, then applied a thick amount of the Dicor self leveling sealant over that and everything else up there. Then put 3 coats of the Dicor roof coating over all that. In the 5 years since I've done that all my sealant still looks brand new. No touch ups, no cracking, no nothing at all. That sealant or tape isn't going anywhere. NOTE: I do not use any type of silicone sealant anywhere on our RV. I hate silicone. Now on the rounded roof edges, where it tucks in behind the roof gutter, I originally used Nuflex 640 for that when I redid all those seams also 5yrs. ago when I redid the roof. And it has done fairly well, but since then I've switched to my polyurathane product I showed you. That stuff bonds like crazy, stays white-doesn't yellow-or start to crack. It's pretty amazing stuff. But I do still check my seams a couple of times a year and in fact just last week I dug out a couple of areas that had the Nuflex 640 cause it was looking a little questionable and then applied the polyurathane sealant. But other than that no other maintenance at all the last 5yrs. except washing it a couple times a year.
@@RVstreet Thanks for the comment. I should have stated 'later' model years. Both Winnie and Entegra have changed it up in the last few years on some models so unless someone can tell by feel, it's best to call the manufacturer. Thanks again for the clarification. Your video's are awesome and I've learned quite a lot from them.
Martin, I am a 60 year old veteran with years of Is experience tent camping and travel trailers. I and my wife are just buying our 1st motor home. Retirement is a few years off but I want to be ready. I came across your channel a few months ago, And you are now at the top of my list to watch. I especially appreciate the Detail and Method You so eloquently teach. I am reminded Of Is being in A military classroom. I hope That your videos are archived Forever. And I pray that God grants you healing and endurance to weather through this medical storm. Keep the faith brother. Grace, Peace, and strength of our Savior Jesus be on you and Joni.
I was unaware of this Winnebago roof maintnece issue until about 4 feet of my roof blew up in stiff Iowa winds. When I bought the Winnebago, Instead of sealing the J channel the proper way, I just covered the whole thing with Eternabond. I will say if I hadn't Eternabonded over the joint I probably would have lost the whole roof. For the fix, I had to heat the Eternabond with a heat gun, pull off the white cover, and then scrape off as much of the adhesive as I could. That exposed the subject joint. Instead of using a razor, I used the pointy end of a painters tool to scrape out all the old sealant. I then used the same pointy end of a painters tool to drag a microfiber cloth soaked in solvent to cleane out the joint. I should have used lacquer thinner or acetone, but as I age I'm getting leery of using strong chemicals, so I used 90% isopropyl alcohol. I then filled the joint with adhesive. The hardest part of the job was dealing with the Eternabond mess. I did one side a couple of years ago and used 3m4200. On the other side I used the Locktite product, largely because it was recommended by Practical Sailor. I fouled this article doing a search on the Loctite product. I did it on Tuesday at the campground, and won't drive it again until Saturday for the drive home. I'm hoping the high FL humidity will have cured it enough for the drive home. Enjoyed your video!
I have been doing so much research on how to maintain my Winnebago fiberglass roof. I recently asked the dealership service center where I bought my rv what products to use and they said to just go to Camping World and ask them. Your video has come along just in time. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Hey buddy great videos here's a trick that I did scraping up all the old glue around all the components such as the vents and the skylights you get an oscillating tool with a real burnt-out blade so it has no teeth on it take that stuff up one out you'll be done with the whole roof keep up the good work TJ over and out
By far one of the best roofing videos I've seen. And your voice reminds me of my step dad Bruce; RIP. He was really awesome. Excellent and good attention to detail.
With "Goo Gone" Caulk Remover, clearing away and replacing old, leaky sealants is a cinch. Plus, its fast-acting gel is gentle on surfaces. Works on wet and dried silicone and acrylic latex caulk, expansion joint sealants, polyurethane glues and construction adhesives.
This is a great video and I can attest to the fact that if you don't do this maintenance your entire roof can be blown off, been there done that. Martin, thank you, this is what I will be doing to my newly applied roof fiberglass roof on my 2004 Itasca Sunova. Really appreciate the efforts you put in.
... . we love your presentation style !!! Further, your directions for various tasks are so clear, thorough, and well-captured on your videos !!! We can save a ton of money by implementing your preventive maintenance programs !!!
Hi Martin! This will be a job for “down the road” when we are retired with more time on our hands! Power washed George’s roof and checked all the seals. He’s good to go for now. Tell Joanie Hi!
Martin..great video and timely. Hubby was looking for a video about FG roofs. Also congrats to you and Joanie on 1M+ views.....well deserved and IMHO...long overdue.
Hello Martin, You have helped me so much, I thought I would share with you. I was watching a custom car builder video and he pulled out his black 1962 Galaxy from storage. He said he does not wash his show cars with soap and water when he takes them to shows. So, he grabbed a bottle of pump spray blue glass cleaner and cleaned the whole car with it. BTW, he had sprayed the car down with WD40 before storing it. He got the car clean and looking good in a few minutes. So, I went out to my shop grabbed a bottle I use for sharpening tools and started cleaning our coach. It works great! The dirt and grime just come right off. I thought you might like to hear another method of cleaning a coach dry. Respectfully, Kevin
Hi Martin! Thanks for making this video. Your attention to detail is impressive. Your step-by-step instructions lay out the methodology in such an easy-to-understand technique. I appreciate and value you and all your hard work here on your channel.
I did the roof job you described. I used 18 tubes of Dicor Lap Sealant. This project really expended me. I hope in one year I am happy that all is well. One thing I learned by watching the Dicor videos is that they say to wait two weeks after applying the lap sealant to cover with their fiberglass sealant. I don't know how important this is, but I did wait two weeks. I also did your hot water tank flush. It really needed it. Thanks for all the help.
Another excellent video! I love your comment on do it right, too many try to take shortcuts and this never works in their favor. Congratulations on the 1M+ views but frankly I'm not surprised as the content you put out is unique, well done and very instructional. And can you please ban the two people who gave this a thumbs down??
These videos are excellent, I'm surprised you don't have a larger subscriber base. Mix in a campsite review or something now and then to break things up and to give people more reasons to visit and subscribe.
Thank you for your informative video. Our RV is 15 years old and we have a leak we cant find on the roof. We haven't maintained it as we should have so I'm not surprised it's a problem now. We're going to follow your process and we're confident it will work. We appreciate the time you took and how well you explained each step. Looking forward to solving the problem!
I have been doing research for my fiberglass roof but having a hard time getting a good explanation. I just ordered the roof paint and dicor self-leveling. I ordered another sealant for the sides but think I will go with what you recommend. Hadn't seen a good explanation on removing the side sealant so this was a huge help!
Martin - thank you both for all the great video. Taking on my roof on my 89 Coachman. Way over due - TPO is missing T&P & most of O. Most of deck needs some sort of patch so just going to pull it all off. I appreciate your attention to detail!
Great video! Our family just went full-time in a 2007 and the roof is in rough shape. My dad and I are going to reseal our roof like you in the video show so we don't have to worry about it. Thanks for such an informative channel.
Hello Marlin and Jonie, I really enjoy all of your videos and they are really helpful. The trouble is when I watch your videos I have work to do on my motorhome after. Just when I think I am catching up
I know I will never get caught up. I have dodged the bullet a couple of times with flat tires on my dually tires. I am going to order from your Amazon Store the Ezee TPMS. Question putting air in the rear dually are a pain to say the least. Did you ever hear of Borg valve stems? They are made of metal and formed to extend to make filling the tires a lot easier. I tried extenders, clamp on extenders with problems. These Borg valve stems are $140 for 6 tires for my motorhome. Pricey yes but for safety and easy access worth it. Thanks again. Ken
Putting air in my dually's isn't hard at all, not sure why it's such a pain for you. Yes I have heard of the Borg and have read much on them. But can you add TPMS sensors to the Borg? Have you looked into that? I don't consider $140 pricey for anything that accomplishes the mission. Thanks Kenneth so much for watching and supporting our channel. 🙏
@@RVstreet I called Borg and they told me that the will screw on the ends of the valve stems. I have a 2011 Winnebago 24 J and the steel trims have a round hole and elongated holes. Trying to get the inner valve stem through the outer elongated hole in the outer rim so you can check air pressure and put air in is very difficult. Apparently the Borg valve stem for the inner rim is approx. 7" long way it's bent at an angle so it comes through the elongated hole on the outer rim. Like I said I have been lucky twice with flat tires on the rear and the other tire carried the load without a blowout. I know I have a good guardian angel. Thanks again and I will be looking forward to more videos. Ken
Thank you so much Marvin. Your videos are so detailed and well presented. You have giving me confidence in myself to do these things A great thank you again to your wife as well. God bless you both.
Great information you provided.....looks like I will be busy this summer with the roof. However, while jumping off the roof is a good move, it would be more impressive to leap from the ground up onto the roof!! We missed you last week, good to have you back.
I have a '97 Roadtrek 170. I can't keep the fiberglass roof clean. It always gets moldy-looking speckles on it and the finish is more than dull. How do I prep, clean ALL the discoloration off, to restore it with the steps you have provided on this video? You explained your video so well...thank you. TREKN-ON ...(soon)
Q: How do I prep, clean ALL the discoloration off, to restore it with the steps you have provided on this video? A: The same exact way I described how I did mine, then add the coating. I applied 3 coats. Prepping the roof like I did is the most important part. All you'll have to do from then on is wash it when you wash the RV. Your roof will never discolor again.
Great Video, your roof is Immaculate! Thank you for sharing, Happy Easter folks! But I am not a Dicor Lap Sealant guy.... I am converted to and use Chem-Link and swear by it!
Just found your site. Awesome!! I’m hooked. I have 2007 class A. I’ve purchased sumo springs and all of your recommendations for polish/wax and repair and graphic restoration. Attacking Hot water heater soon! Awesome videos. Thanks again! Rob
@@RVstreet Monaco Monarch 30’ SVE. I removed all old sealant and roof tape last year. I re-tapped all seams but didn’t know about applying the roof sealant. Looks like you painted it on. Searching for your roof video now. The sealant is unavailable on your Amazon channel-will check again. Thanks again for your awesome videos!!
@@robnelson4869 Nice coach BTW... Here's my roof video: ua-cam.com/video/H00oNtbvtrk/v-deo.html And I just checked my store link and the sealant is available: www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet
Once again you didn’t disappoint with the valuable information excellently communicated. I’m gettn on the roof today and conducting my annual inspection. Thank you very much for sharing your experience with us! You Rock!!!
Such a great walk through, I own tour buses that always seem to have leaking roofs and this will be perfect, especially for one I am retiring and converting.
Very Nice video! I want to know, if it’s possible to applied it, on my Rv rear vertical plastic molding corner. It have cracks. I put temporarly super white adhesive.
Martin, I have a 2018 Winnebago intent. However, it’s roof is tpo flex, not fiberglass. How do you recommend treating this type roof so that it’s similar to yours where you don’t have to worry about it for a year or so. Thanks, Kyle
Great video Martin ! Have to put this on the to-do list which is backing up. Rig in the shop for major slide repair. When it gets back I have to clean and protect the entire body with Rejex. Still have much work remaining underneath on the rust removal job. Passenger side front window leaking and needs resealing pronto! Roof is about number 3 or 4 on the list. Dolly due for maintenance also- bearing, brakes and repaint! Thanks for an excellent video. I was wondering how to redo the front cap to roof seam and I like your approach!
My roof is fiberglass but is tan does dicor sell different colors or only white? White would look weird on my curved sides. You've inspired me to tackle this job and it will be labor intensive but I can only imagine how much it would cost to hire someone
Dicor self leveling sealant does come in tan for your vents and other areas on top of the roof. I have your color in my Amazon Store. Just go to the "Everything On The Roof" category. www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet Now you said above "White would look weird on *my curved sides"*. So if you're talking about the area where the roof crown curves down and under the aluminum roof gutter, like the product I showed you that I repaired, it also comes in bronze which would look fine on your roof. Same thing...go to my Amazon store, go to the "Everything On The Roof" category, scroll down about half way and click the PL loctite sealant and chose "Bronze" as your color. And you're right. If you jobbed this out it would cost you several hundreds of dollars + materials and more than likely it wouldn't be done properly.
Did you say you purchased the lot you are parked in? By the way I did a very similar thing with my 1981 20' C class. Also, I've noticed the Dicor sealant for windows and such dries pretty rigid which is contrary to what you are saying about staying flexible. One last thing, you are a perfectionist, even more so than me.
Yes we purchased our winter lot. Ya, the flexible sealant I covered is necessary on the-roof seams-because that's where a lot flexing happens. If a hardening sealant is used it will be money & time spent for nothing b/c it will crack, not hold and allow water intrusion.
I have no idea. IMO, I wouldn't think so, because you're not changing anything structurally. But I'd call Winnebago to be sure. Also, if I'm not mistaken, those 10 year warranties are limited warranties too.
We have a Winnebago 30B with the fiberglass roof. I am needing to reseal my roof so watching videos about that process. I ran across your video and see that you have used the Dicor self leveling caulking. I have already purchased that product for our roof but in watching another video, the guy says that with fiberglass, you are supposed to use a silicone, self leveling caulking, or it will not adhere correctly. It doesn't look like you have had a problem with that. Any comments on this subject?
No, I have not had any problems with any of the areas that I resealed with Dicor. But remember I took all the old sealant off right down to the roof, sanded and acetoned the entire roof and those areas. If you have exisiting silicone sealant on those areas now, Dicor probably won't adhere to that. You could try a test spot though if you want. Silicone sealants wont' even adhere to itself. I hate silicone and don't use any kind of silicone sealant on anything. BTW...I just went your channel and saw your video "This Texas Weather Keeps SUCKING!" Your coach is very much like ours. Don't know if you've SEEN this video of mine or not, but if you do these insulation things I cover-in your coach-it will make a huge difference in the summer AND IN THE WINTER. ua-cam.com/video/yqZjE4aEoek/v-deo.html
Hi Ali, I would love to know how you do maintain well on the slides........ What exactly do you mean by this? Have you checked out myPLAYLISTS page yet? Ton of stuff there. ua-cam.com/users/RVstreetplaylists
@@RVstreet I have seen a lot of your videos. But I don’t recall one specific for maintaining the slides or doing maintenance on an RV slide out. You know like cleaning or lubrication every time you move or relocate. Every time the slide comes in or out? Are we not suppose to do RV maintenance on slide outs? Thank you so much. Your videos help me understand on keeping up with what I’m suppose to do.
@@baortiz25 Oh, OK. Here's two videos I've done on slides so far. One for cleaning and taking care of the rubber seals when you have toppers: ua-cam.com/video/F5YSBrmuTCA/v-deo.html And one to clean the top of the slides and the toppers: ua-cam.com/video/lVF_nPZccbQ/v-deo.html Lubrication isn't necessary every time you deploy or retract. I lube mine rack & pinion slide systems about twice a year with a dry lube that's in my Amazon Store in the "Sealants, Lubes and Protectants" category. But of course I block my slide gears and rails with my custom made panels too, to keep dirt out.
Your darn good, I don't want to go against your good advice, however... my Bigfoot Camper has a rigid fiber reinforced sealer around the penetrations direct from the factory. I'm only looking to do what the factory did. I am not a fan of the soft rubbery lap sealant. Thinking of taping off around the penetrations and re-coating them with the fiber reinforced coating. Your thoughts?
@@RVstreet Sorry, wasn't clear. I'm going to use the Dicor product that you used on your whole roof only on my penetrations, as did the Bigfoot factory.
BTW I like how you put eternabond at each end of the roof and then covered with self leveling I intend to do the same with new tpo at each end. The worst part or should I say biggest stress point seems to be the side edges going into side termination bars of my roof. The majority of my leaks are coming from where the stress of movement and time caused those areas to fail. Is there a reason not to run a piece of eternabond down the length of the rood under the new TPO?? At 60 - I figure those edges would possibly outlast me?? Thanks Jim
I would NOT run eternabond tape down the whole length of the roof. If that area ever needs maintenance or repair, eternabond tape is nearly impossible to remove. Just service and maintain your roof edges like you're suppose to every year.
I want to do the Rubber roof with the Dicor coating, as well as redo the seams or joints withe the self leveling sealant. Would you recommend removing the old caulking, and sealing with the self leveling sealant, before using the Dicor cleaning Treatment number 1, and then finish up with the painting with the step 2? Or would you cover the seams with the Self Leveling sealant. Thanks again for your help!
Dicor has a little different coating product for Rubber roofs. It really depends on the current condition of you're existing caulking. But what I'd probably do without seeing your roof, is go over all existing areas with a nice new thick bead of Dicor self-Leveling sealant...THEN'....paint the coating over that and everything else.
You don’t want do use silicone sealant anywhere on the RV and here’s why: Silicone usually does not have UV protection. But even if you happen to find a silicone product that does have UV protection properties, once silicone has been applied to ANYTHING and you come back later to do any repairs, it's nearly impossible to scrap and remove it all off to reapply new material. There's always some residual silicone left behind on the old surface which makes adhering the new silicone product unable to adhere properly. Silicone won't adhere to itself either.
"All you do is create work for me......" Ah, but would you continue to watch if Joanie was creating all this work for you wearing a bikini? Or perhaps a really cool looking pair of snow shoes? Just asking 🇨🇦🎅🇨🇦 😜😜😜😜😜😜😜😜😜😜😜😜😜😜😜
Great video thank you. I had watch over 50 videos and finally got to you with a perfect and complete instructions, I know feel confident to do this on my own. One question tho, I bought rust-oleum topside paint, you think that will work too? TFS :)
Sir...thanks for your videos! SERIOUSLY...your videos are the best.. I hope to run into you guys on the road someday. QUESTION: Did you make a video to install the 360 vent cover?
Martin, thank you for making these videos. I apologize if this question has already been asked abd answered but I am trying to figure out how much 80 grit sandpaper I am going to redo my roof. I have a 36ft 2004 Itasca Meridian. I am trying to figure out if I should buy a few sheets of sandpaper or a whole roll. Please let me know what you think. Thank you.
Not a wifi booster but a cellular booster. This really helps us get a stronger cell signal so we can use our phones as a hot spot. Mine is the weBoost 4G-X that I installed 4yrs ago. weboost just released a newer version-about a year ago I think-called the WeBoost Drive Reach RV which is stronger and same price as I paid for mine 4yrs. ago. We couldn't do what we do without it. Traveling it is a must have IMO. I have both models in my Amazon Store in the Electronics category. www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet thx Lee 👍
Great video, thanks Martin. I have a 7 year old Allegro 34tga, our first motorhome that we purchased last year. When i got on the roof I saw what looked like a half an inch or more of the self leveling sealant. I have seen other videos that have removed the self levelpng sealant and replaced it with eternabond tape around the seams and roof penetrations. it looked cleaner than the mess I have and I was hoping to get your opinion on the use of the eternabond over the self leveling sealant. Also wondering if the fiberglass paint would go right over the tape if I decide to go that route. Thanks for all you do for the RV community.
Not sure what "roof penetrations" are... My roof was a mess too when I bought it. That's why I started from scratch. Do it once and do it right. I've never had to worry about my roof. I like using Eternabond tape over the front & rear caps only. Why? Because those are the two most vulnerable areas for leaking and they take the most stress. This is one area I don't want to have to deal with down the road, so using Eternabond tape is pretty much a permanent fix there. The chances of me ever having to pull the front or rear cap off are slim to none. I followed up with self leveling sealant over that to provide additional protection from the sun and then the Dicor coating over that. Sun is brutal as you know. I would never use Eternabond tape over any other areas because it's to permanent and very difficult to get off if I want or need to replace something like a vent gets cracked, or I need to change out my antenna or a branch breaks a cover or whatever. The self leveling sealant you saw in my video is 5 years old and looks like it was put on yesterday. So no..... no Eternabond tape anywhere else for me. I know others feel differently but that's ok.
That roof had been MARTINIZED... Mr.Martin.. Thank you..I have a Safari trek with an frp roof too... Doesn't Winnebago revoke using nuflex 311 silicone sealant? How did your get the dicor sealpoint l sealant to stick around the vents etc... Was there 311 sealant on the end caps originally? How did you get the eternabond to stick? I need to do maintenance and recoat
Well remember our coach is a 2012. I don't know what type of self leveling sealant they used then. But for me it didn't matter. I stripped off all the old sealant off. Then sanded the entire roof. Then wiped down with acetone, then cleaned it with the Dicor cleaner. So I started from scratch. Once the roof was down to bare bones, then I laid down the eternabond tape, then applied a thick amount of the Dicor self leveling sealant over that and everything else up there. Then put 3 coats of the Dicor roof coating over all that. In the 5 years since I've done that all my sealant still looks brand new. No touch ups, no cracking, no nothing at all. That sealant or tape isn't going anywhere. NOTE: I do not use any type of silicone sealant anywhere on our RV. I hate silicone. Now on the rounded roof edges, where it tucks in behind the roof gutter, I originally used Nuflex 640 for that when I redid all those seams also 5yrs. ago when I redid the roof. And it has done fairly well, but since then I've switched to my polyurathane product I showed you. That stuff bonds like crazy, stays white-doesn't yellow-or start to crack. It's pretty amazing stuff. But I do still check my seams a couple of times a year and in fact just last week I dug out a couple of areas that had the Nuflex 640 cause it was looking a little questionable and then applied the polyurathane sealant. But other than that no other maintenance at all the last 5yrs. except washing it a couple times a year.
@@RVstreet thank you so much Mr. Martin... This video and this write up is my guide... My roof is from 98.. Original fiberglass... Is there a way I can reglue it or do I have to get a new fiberglass sheet. To replace the original one... Thank you again... Watching your RV maintenance especially on the generator... That overhaul at my local rv center is $450 labor plus parts....
@@RVstreet I apologize for not being clear.... My fiberglass roof is original from 1998... I was told that eventually the glue holding the fiberglass roof to the luan will dry out.... This will cause the roof too separate..... Can my original fiberglass roof be reused and reglued..... Or do I have to buy a new fiberglass roof and glue that? Thank you again.... Just watched your video on replacing the 12v water pump... My Pump ended up being good... It was the screen that was severely clogged up
Question I am getting ready to reseal my Fiberglass roof. So far I have redone all vents and end caps by removing old dicor and replacing with new. My question is using the dicor fiberglass cleaner. So you said you use a bucket and us a rag and rinse the rag and apply. My Question is do I need a seperate bucket with clean water and use a seperate rag and wipe off the fiberglass cleaner or do you just apply it with a rag and than leave it on the roof and than come back with the Aciton with a rag does that remove the cleaner .
I did my roof in 2016 and still looks great and I applied 3 coats back then which took 2 gallons and I'm 35' long. It's a fantastic product and now all I have to do is wash it. Definitely one of the smartest upgrades I did right off the bat. Take your time and prep the roof right first. That's important to get a good, long lasting result. Currently it's not available on Amazon therefore not in my store. Once it becomes available again it will be in my store again. Supply chain issues right like everything else. But you MAY find it at a local RV dealer. Dicor doesn't sell to the general public. www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet
Awesome video! I have a fifth wheel with a TPO roof. What product would you recommend for this type of roof to have the same benefits of the product you used?
Water damage is a sign of a leaky roof, which is usually caused by separated seams that allow water to enter your insulation. However, if your roof saturation level is under 25% and your remaining seams are in good condition, you can install a silicone restoration system to restore your TPO roof. A primer will not be needed on a TPO roof that is over five years old because an oily film (found on new TPO) will have worn away. If the oily film is still present, it will prevent the silicone from adhering to TPO properly. If your roof saturation is above 25%, remove the TPO and insulation and install a new roofing system. I’m not well versed in coating TPO roofs but I did some research for you. Perhaps this would be the way to go. www.gaf.com/en-us/roofing-products/commercial-roofing-products/tpo-roofing-systems/tpo-primers-sealants/sealants/everguard-one-part-pourable-sealant
Thanks for the video. Very informative. Why do you say not to use Silicon Sealant? Is that just on the roof, or anywhere on the coach? thanks for sharing
I was waiting for someone to ask this question, because I wanted to pin this question and my answer so it would appear at the top of all comments.
You don’t want do use silicone sealant anywhere on the RV and here’s why:
Silicone usually does not have UV protection. But even if you happen to find a silicone product that does have UV protection properties, once silicone has been applied to ANYTHING and you come back later to do any repairs, it's nearly impossible to scrap and remove it all off to reapply new material. There's always some residual silicone left behind on the old surface which makes adhering the new silicone product unable to adhere properly. Silicone won't adhere to itself either.
@@RVstreet - it's important to know however, that Winnebago uses silicone sealant from the factory. So if you have one, do not use dicor unless you take all of the silicone off and clean it up first, like you have done. Dicor does not stick to silicone.
@@MrRMB1 So let me elaborate a little more on this for others:
Remember our coach is a 2012. I don't know what type of self leveling sealant they used then. But for me it didn't matter. I stripped all the old sealant off. Then sanded the entire roof. Then wiped down with acetone, then cleaned it with the Dicor cleaner. So I started from scratch. Once the roof was down to bare bones, then I laid down the eternabond tape, then applied a thick amount of the Dicor self leveling sealant over that and everything else up there. Then put 3 coats of the Dicor roof coating over all that. In the 5 years since I've done that all my sealant still looks brand new. No touch ups, no cracking, no nothing at all. That sealant or tape isn't going anywhere.
NOTE: I do not use any type of silicone sealant anywhere on our RV. I hate silicone.
Now on the rounded roof edges, where it tucks in behind the roof gutter, I originally used Nuflex 640 for that when I redid all those seams also 5yrs. ago when I redid the roof. And it has done fairly well, but since then I've switched to my polyurathane product I showed you. That stuff bonds like crazy, stays white-doesn't yellow-or start to crack. It's pretty amazing stuff. But I do still check my seams a couple of times a year and in fact just last week I dug out a couple of areas that had the Nuflex 640 cause it was looking a little questionable and then applied the polyurathane sealant. But other than that no other maintenance at all the last 5yrs. except washing it a couple times a year.
@@RVstreet Thanks for the comment. I should have stated 'later' model years. Both Winnie and Entegra have changed it up in the last few years on some models so unless someone can tell by feel, it's best to call the manufacturer. Thanks again for the clarification. Your video's are awesome and I've learned quite a lot from them.
@@MrRMB1 👍
Martin, I am a 60 year old veteran with years of Is experience tent camping and travel trailers. I and my wife are just buying our 1st motor home. Retirement is a few years off but I want to be ready. I came across your channel a few months ago, And you are now at the top of my list to watch. I especially appreciate the Detail and Method You so eloquently teach. I am reminded Of Is being in A military classroom. I hope That your videos are archived Forever. And I pray that God grants you healing and endurance to weather through this medical storm. Keep the faith brother. Grace, Peace, and strength of our Savior Jesus be on you and Joni.
blessings in heaven MARTIN. still helping folks
Cherish all his videos, knowing there will be no more. Miss you, Martin.
I was unaware of this Winnebago roof maintnece issue until about 4 feet of my roof blew up in stiff Iowa winds. When I bought the Winnebago, Instead of sealing the J channel the proper way, I just covered the whole thing with Eternabond. I will say if I hadn't Eternabonded over the joint I probably would have lost the whole roof. For the fix, I had to heat the Eternabond with a heat gun, pull off the white cover, and then scrape off as much of the adhesive as I could. That exposed the subject joint. Instead of using a razor, I used the pointy end of a painters tool to scrape out all the old sealant. I then used the same pointy end of a painters tool to drag a microfiber cloth soaked in solvent to cleane out the joint. I should have used lacquer thinner or acetone, but as I age I'm getting leery of using strong chemicals, so I used 90% isopropyl alcohol. I then filled the joint with adhesive. The hardest part of the job was dealing with the Eternabond mess. I did one side a couple of years ago and used 3m4200. On the other side I used the Locktite product, largely because it was recommended by Practical Sailor. I fouled this article doing a search on the Loctite product. I did it on Tuesday at the campground, and won't drive it again until Saturday for the drive home. I'm hoping the high FL humidity will have cured it enough for the drive home. Enjoyed your video!
I have been doing so much research on how to maintain my Winnebago fiberglass roof. I recently asked the dealership service center where I bought my rv what products to use and they said to just go to Camping World and ask them. Your video has come along just in time. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Hey buddy great videos here's a trick that I did scraping up all the old glue around all the components such as the vents and the skylights you get an oscillating tool with a real burnt-out blade so it has no teeth on it take that stuff up one out you'll be done with the whole roof keep up the good work TJ over and out
By far one of the best roofing videos I've seen. And your voice reminds me of my step dad Bruce; RIP. He was really awesome. Excellent and good attention to detail.
With "Goo Gone" Caulk Remover, clearing away and replacing old, leaky sealants is a cinch. Plus, its fast-acting gel is gentle on surfaces. Works on wet and dried silicone and acrylic latex caulk, expansion joint sealants, polyurethane glues and construction adhesives.
I don't have a RV but this guy makes me want to get one.
Your DIY Videos are the best!
I have had to watch this video, several times, and I have got it now:- THANKS! ☺
No one is as thorough as you! Great job. Thank you
Thank you Bill so much. 🔧👍
I love your videos. I just received your 1 million views notification. Great job!!!
This is a great video and I can attest to the fact that if you don't do this maintenance your entire roof can be blown off, been there done that. Martin, thank you, this is what I will be doing to my newly applied roof fiberglass roof on my 2004 Itasca Sunova. Really appreciate the efforts you put in.
I love how you explain things and the products you use. Keep doing what your doing !👌
Thank you so much!!
... . we love your presentation style !!! Further, your directions for various tasks are so clear, thorough, and well-captured on your videos !!! We can save a ton of money by implementing your preventive maintenance programs !!!
Great minds think alike. You did a really thorough reseal, I like that. Nice work.
Hi Martin! This will be a job for “down the road” when we are retired with more time on our hands! Power washed George’s roof and checked all the seals. He’s good to go for now. Tell Joanie Hi!
Martin..great video and timely. Hubby was looking for a video about FG roofs. Also congrats to you and Joanie on 1M+ views.....well deserved and IMHO...long overdue.
Thank you Marie. Your always so kind. 💗
One of the cleanest RV roofs I have ever seen! Great job.
Hello Martin, You have helped me so much, I thought I would share with you. I was watching a custom car builder video and he pulled out his black 1962 Galaxy from storage. He said he does not wash his show cars with soap and water when he takes them to shows. So, he grabbed a bottle of pump spray blue glass cleaner and cleaned the whole car with it. BTW, he had sprayed the car down with WD40 before storing it. He got the car clean and looking good in a few minutes. So, I went out to my shop grabbed a bottle I use for sharpening tools and started cleaning our coach. It works great! The dirt and grime just come right off. I thought you might like to hear another method of cleaning a coach dry.
Respectfully, Kevin
Thanks for reply to sealing fiberglass roof.
Your roof is immaculate!
Thank you Gypsy 💗
Hi Martin! Thanks for making this video. Your attention to detail is impressive. Your step-by-step instructions lay out the methodology in such an easy-to-understand technique. I appreciate and value you and all your hard work here on your channel.
Thank you so much
This was a marvelous video. I have purchased so many things from your amazon store. Thank you for being so straight foward
Thank you so much for your support
I did the roof job you described. I used 18 tubes of Dicor Lap Sealant. This project really expended me. I hope in one year I am happy that all is well.
One thing I learned by watching the Dicor videos is that they say to wait two weeks after applying the lap sealant to cover with their fiberglass sealant. I don't know how important this is, but I did wait two weeks.
I also did your hot water tank flush. It really needed it. Thanks for all the help.
You'll be just fine with the coating over the dicor.
Another excellent video! I love your comment on do it right, too many try to take shortcuts and this never works in their favor.
Congratulations on the 1M+ views but frankly I'm not surprised as the content you put out is unique, well done and very instructional.
And can you please ban the two people who gave this a thumbs down??
Thank you Michael so much. YT creators have no control of who 👍 or 👎nor do we see who does it.
@@RVstreet I know, right? Too easy for people to hide behind a 👎 button, but we can give them a 'wave' 🖕can't we....
Thank you. This is the best info I've ever heard for keeping the roof in good shape!
My 2014 Winnebago roof is showing it’s age and I’m doing this with the products you recommended. Thank you Martin!
fascinating content RVstreet. I broke the thumbs up on your video. Keep on up the solid work.
These videos are excellent, I'm surprised you don't have a larger subscriber base. Mix in a campsite review or something now and then to break things up and to give people more reasons to visit and subscribe.
Excellent video. Thank you so much for the info. Once again,, you make clear instructions.
Proflex is awesome for winni roof seams...
Thank you for your informative video. Our RV is 15 years old and we have a leak we cant find on the roof. We haven't maintained it as we should have so I'm not surprised it's a problem now. We're going to follow your process and we're confident it will work. We appreciate the time you took and how well you explained each step. Looking forward to solving the problem!
This guy is awesome!! Thanks for making the videos!! So helpful!!
Wow dude. Outstanding video and very informative. Thanks for the great work.
Great video! Love the callout for the 360 vents. They work so well!
I have been doing research for my fiberglass roof but having a hard time getting a good explanation. I just ordered the roof paint and dicor self-leveling. I ordered another sealant for the sides but think I will go with what you recommend. Hadn't seen a good explanation on removing the side sealant so this was a huge help!
It looks awesome that roof I gonna do mine this summer for sure because I have a leak on my RV
Just did my first coat! and thank you for the educating videos! also praying for your recovery and strength for your Wife to be by your side
Martin - thank you both for all the great video. Taking on my roof on my 89 Coachman. Way over due - TPO is missing T&P & most of O. Most of deck needs some sort of patch so just going to pull it all off. I appreciate your attention to detail!
Thank you 4 all the enfo,,,E Plurbis Um,,,welcome back,,and thank you for your service Troop
🇺🇸🙏
Awesome job detailing the roof sealing.
Wow. Your roof looks better than some new ones I've seen on dealer lots right from the factory. Well done.
Exactly what I was looking for to plan spring maintenance on my Vista's roof. Thank you sir. I hope all is well with you and Joanie.
Great video! Our family just went full-time in a 2007 and the roof is in rough shape. My dad and I are going to reseal our roof like you in the video show so we don't have to worry about it. Thanks for such an informative channel.
Great info as usual! We really appreciate your problem solving and explanations. The way you think about it makes sense to us. Thank you!!
Hi Martin
I just read your response to the silicone question of amother viewer.
Thanks again
I'm sorry J, I thought I answered your question. I believe you asked this twice. So are you good to go. Do you have the answer I gave.
@@RVstreet
Ha, well I'm in my 60s now that's my excuse.
Thank you
@@TheSkite575 👍
We're on our 2nd Winnebago class A. This is the first I've heard of this. THANK YOU so much!!!
Hello Marlin and Jonie,
I really enjoy all of your videos and they are really helpful. The trouble is when I watch your videos I have work to do on my motorhome after. Just when I think I am catching up
I know I will never get caught up. I have dodged the bullet a couple of times with flat tires on my dually tires. I am going to order from your Amazon Store the Ezee TPMS. Question putting air in the rear dually are a pain to say the least. Did you ever hear of Borg valve stems? They are made of metal and formed to extend to make filling the tires a lot easier. I tried extenders, clamp on extenders with problems. These Borg valve stems are $140 for 6 tires for my motorhome. Pricey yes but for safety and easy access worth it.
Thanks again.
Ken
Putting air in my dually's isn't hard at all, not sure why it's such a pain for you.
Yes I have heard of the Borg and have read much on them.
But can you add TPMS sensors to the Borg? Have you looked into that?
I don't consider $140 pricey for anything that accomplishes the mission.
Thanks Kenneth so much for watching and supporting our channel. 🙏
@@RVstreet I called Borg and they told me that the will screw on the ends of the valve stems.
I have a 2011 Winnebago 24 J and the steel trims have a round hole and elongated holes. Trying to get the inner valve stem through the outer elongated hole in the outer rim so you can check air pressure and put air in is very difficult. Apparently the Borg valve stem for the inner rim is approx. 7" long way it's bent at an angle so it comes through the elongated hole on the outer rim.
Like I said I have been lucky twice with flat tires on the rear and the other tire carried the load without a blowout. I know I have a good guardian angel.
Thanks again and I will be looking forward to more videos.
Ken
@@kennethkirschbaum1906 Nice follow up Ken. thx 👍
@@RVstreet Your welcome.
I thoroughly enjoy your channel! Glad I found you. We are DIY's and we need to do this this spring. Thanks!
Thank you so much Marvin. Your videos are so detailed and well presented. You have giving me confidence in myself to do these things A great thank you again to your wife as well. God bless you both.
Great information you provided.....looks like I will be busy this summer with the roof. However, while jumping off the roof is a good move, it would be more impressive to leap from the ground up onto the roof!! We missed you last week, good to have you back.
We're doing a vid every other week this year. thx Larry
I have a '97 Roadtrek 170. I can't keep the fiberglass roof clean. It always gets moldy-looking speckles on it and the finish is more than dull. How do I prep, clean ALL the discoloration off, to restore it with the steps you have provided on this video? You explained your video so well...thank you. TREKN-ON ...(soon)
Q: How do I prep, clean ALL the discoloration off, to restore it with the steps you have provided on this video?
A: The same exact way I described how I did mine, then add the coating. I applied 3 coats. Prepping the roof like I did is the most important part. All you'll have to do from then on is wash it when you wash the RV. Your roof will never discolor again.
Great Video, your roof is Immaculate! Thank you for sharing, Happy Easter folks!
But I am not a Dicor Lap Sealant guy.... I am converted to and use Chem-Link and swear by it!
Just found your site. Awesome!! I’m hooked. I have 2007 class A. I’ve purchased sumo springs and all of your recommendations for polish/wax and repair and graphic restoration.
Attacking Hot water heater soon! Awesome videos. Thanks again!
Rob
Thanks fantastic Bob 👍 You'll be way way ahead of the pack.
What's the model of your Class A?
@@RVstreet Monaco Monarch 30’ SVE. I removed all old sealant and roof tape last year. I re-tapped all seams but didn’t know about applying the roof sealant. Looks like you painted it on. Searching for your roof video now. The sealant is unavailable on your Amazon channel-will check again.
Thanks again for your awesome videos!!
@@robnelson4869 Nice coach BTW...
Here's my roof video: ua-cam.com/video/H00oNtbvtrk/v-deo.html
And I just checked my store link and the sealant is available: www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet
Thank You as always your TOP NOTCH PROFESSIONAL!! Extremely thorough and fantastic
Great video thanks! I will be following your steps in the coming months
Once again you didn’t disappoint with the valuable information excellently communicated. I’m gettn on the roof today and conducting my annual inspection. Thank you very much for sharing your experience with us! You Rock!!!
Such a great walk through, I own tour buses that always seem to have leaking roofs and this will be perfect, especially for one I am retiring and converting.
always great info with common sense!!
Great job. Any chance you can address a rubber roof? If you have already done that video could you give me the link. Love your channel.
Have not done a rubber roof video.
Very Nice video! I want to know, if it’s possible to applied it, on my Rv rear vertical plastic molding corner. It have cracks. I put temporarly super white adhesive.
Nice job. Keep to videos coming. Thank you
Great video very good information good product information you do a great job
Glad it was helpful!
Martin, I have a 2018 Winnebago intent. However, it’s roof is tpo flex, not fiberglass. How do you recommend treating this type roof so that it’s similar to yours where you don’t have to worry about it for a year or so.
Thanks,
Kyle
Will a heat gun help remove the old caulking
Great video Martin ! Have to put this on the to-do list which is backing up. Rig in the shop for major slide repair. When it gets back I have to clean and protect the entire body with Rejex. Still have much work remaining underneath on the rust removal job. Passenger side front window leaking and needs resealing pronto! Roof is about number 3 or 4 on the list. Dolly due for maintenance also- bearing, brakes and repaint! Thanks for an excellent video. I was wondering how to redo the front cap to roof seam and I like your approach!
Always luv hearing from you Joe. 🔧 💗
My roof is fiberglass but is tan does dicor sell different colors or only white? White would look weird on my curved sides. You've inspired me to tackle this job and it will be labor intensive but I can only imagine how much it would cost to hire someone
Dicor self leveling sealant does come in tan for your vents and other areas on top of the roof. I have your color in my Amazon Store. Just go to the "Everything On The Roof" category. www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet
Now you said above "White would look weird on *my curved sides"*. So if you're talking about the area where the roof crown curves down and under the aluminum roof gutter, like the product I showed you that I repaired, it also comes in bronze which would look fine on your roof. Same thing...go to my Amazon store, go to the "Everything On The Roof" category, scroll down about half way and click the PL loctite sealant and chose "Bronze" as your color.
And you're right. If you jobbed this out it would cost you several hundreds of dollars + materials and more than likely it wouldn't be done properly.
Thank you again for a very informative video.
Winnebago says not to use dicor on filon/ fiberglass roof. They recommend nuflex 311 silicone.
I had heard about a product that has asbestos in it and not only seals but does major insulating.
I have a silicone roof. What should I use for the small cracks?
Good information, 👍😎🇺🇸🦅🍺
very nice job sir..
Did you say you purchased the lot you are parked in? By the way I did a very similar thing with my 1981 20' C class.
Also, I've noticed the Dicor sealant for windows and such dries pretty rigid which is contrary to what you are saying about staying flexible.
One last thing, you are a perfectionist, even more so than me.
Yes we purchased our winter lot.
Ya, the flexible sealant I covered is necessary on the-roof seams-because that's where a lot flexing happens. If a hardening sealant is used it will be money & time spent for nothing b/c it will crack, not hold and allow water intrusion.
martin great video what would u do if u did not have a glass roof such as Brite Tec
Not sure. I'm not familiar with Brite Tec
Will added a coating void the Winnebago 10 year warranty ?
I have no idea. IMO, I wouldn't think so, because you're not changing anything structurally. But I'd call Winnebago to be sure. Also, if I'm not mistaken, those 10 year warranties are limited warranties too.
Beautiful place!! Great video :0)
We have a Winnebago 30B with the fiberglass roof. I am needing to reseal my roof so watching videos about that process. I ran across your video and see that you have used the Dicor self leveling caulking. I have already purchased that product for our roof but in watching another video, the guy says that with fiberglass, you are supposed to use a silicone, self leveling caulking, or it will not adhere correctly. It doesn't look like you have had a problem with that. Any comments on this subject?
No, I have not had any problems with any of the areas that I resealed with Dicor. But remember I took all the old sealant off right down to the roof, sanded and acetoned the entire roof and those areas. If you have exisiting silicone sealant on those areas now, Dicor probably won't adhere to that. You could try a test spot though if you want. Silicone sealants wont' even adhere to itself. I hate silicone and don't use any kind of silicone sealant on anything.
BTW...I just went your channel and saw your video "This Texas Weather Keeps SUCKING!"
Your coach is very much like ours. Don't know if you've SEEN this video of mine or not, but if you do these insulation things I cover-in your coach-it will make a huge difference in the summer AND IN THE WINTER.
ua-cam.com/video/yqZjE4aEoek/v-deo.html
Hey Martin, I would love to know how you do maintain well on the slides! I need the education please make a video! Thank you and happy travels.
Hi Ali,
I would love to know how you do maintain well on the slides........
What exactly do you mean by this?
Have you checked out myPLAYLISTS page yet? Ton of stuff there.
ua-cam.com/users/RVstreetplaylists
@@RVstreet I have seen a lot of your videos. But I don’t recall one specific for maintaining the slides or doing maintenance on an RV slide out. You know like cleaning or lubrication every time you move or relocate. Every time the slide comes in or out? Are we not suppose to do RV maintenance on slide outs? Thank you so much. Your videos help me understand on keeping up with what I’m suppose to do.
@@baortiz25 Oh, OK. Here's two videos I've done on slides so far. One for cleaning and taking care of the rubber seals when you have toppers:
ua-cam.com/video/F5YSBrmuTCA/v-deo.html
And one to clean the top of the slides and the toppers:
ua-cam.com/video/lVF_nPZccbQ/v-deo.html
Lubrication isn't necessary every time you deploy or retract. I lube mine rack & pinion slide systems about twice a year with a dry lube that's in my Amazon Store in the "Sealants, Lubes and Protectants" category. But of course I block my slide gears and rails with my custom made panels too, to keep dirt out.
@@RVstreet thank you!!! I will watch them now!
Great Video , excellent information.
Your darn good, I don't want to go against your good advice, however... my Bigfoot Camper has a rigid fiber reinforced sealer around the penetrations direct from the factory. I'm only looking to do what the factory did. I am not a fan of the soft rubbery lap sealant. Thinking of taping off around the penetrations and re-coating them with the fiber reinforced coating. Your thoughts?
JIC, the product I am talking about is NOT soft rubbery lap sealant. No sure what fiber reinforced coating your talking about.
@@RVstreet Sorry, wasn't clear. I'm going to use the Dicor product that you used on your whole roof only on my penetrations, as did the Bigfoot factory.
@@bob_frazier 👍
BTW I like how you put eternabond at each end of the roof and then covered with self leveling I intend to do the same with new tpo at each end. The worst part or should I say biggest stress point seems to be the side edges going into side termination bars of my roof. The majority of my leaks are coming from where the stress of movement and time caused those areas to fail. Is there a reason not to run a piece of eternabond down the length of the rood under the new TPO?? At 60 - I figure those edges would possibly outlast me?? Thanks Jim
I would NOT run eternabond tape down the whole length of the roof. If that area ever needs maintenance or repair, eternabond tape is nearly impossible to remove. Just service and maintain your roof edges like you're suppose to every year.
Nice RV park. What city is it in?
I want to do the Rubber roof with the Dicor coating, as well as redo the seams or joints withe the self leveling sealant. Would you recommend removing the old caulking, and sealing with the self leveling sealant, before using the Dicor cleaning Treatment number 1, and then finish up with the painting with the step 2? Or would you cover the seams with the Self Leveling sealant.
Thanks again for your help!
Dicor has a little different coating product for Rubber roofs.
It really depends on the current condition of you're existing caulking. But what I'd probably do without seeing your roof, is go over all existing areas with a nice new thick bead of Dicor self-Leveling sealant...THEN'....paint the coating over that and everything else.
@@RVstreet That sounds like a Great Plan,Thanks Marten!
Hi Martin
Would you elaborate on why not to use silicone on the camper
Thanks for your videos
You don’t want do use silicone sealant anywhere on the RV and here’s why:
Silicone usually does not have UV protection. But even if you happen to find a silicone product that does have UV protection properties, once silicone has been applied to ANYTHING and you come back later to do any repairs, it's nearly impossible to scrap and remove it all off to reapply new material. There's always some residual silicone left behind on the old surface which makes adhering the new silicone product unable to adhere properly. Silicone won't adhere to itself either.
I have to stop watching your channel. All you do is create work for me. And for all your efforts, thank you very much.
"All you do is create work for me......"
Ah, but would you continue to watch if Joanie was creating all this work for you wearing a bikini? Or perhaps a really cool looking pair of snow shoes? Just asking 🇨🇦🎅🇨🇦
😜😜😜😜😜😜😜😜😜😜😜😜😜😜😜
Great video great imformation. Tks
Great video thank you. I had watch over 50 videos and finally got to you with a perfect and complete instructions, I know feel confident to do this on my own. One question tho, I bought rust-oleum topside paint, you think that will work too? TFS :)
Rust-oleum for what? The top of the roof? If so, I wouldn't use that on my roof.
Sir...thanks for your videos! SERIOUSLY...your videos are the best.. I hope to run into you guys on the road someday. QUESTION: Did you make a video to install the 360 vent cover?
No I didn't. I did all this work before we even had a YT Channel. 👍
Info on RV electrical systems
Martin, thank you for making these videos. I apologize if this question has already been asked abd answered but I am trying to figure out how much 80 grit sandpaper I am going to redo my roof. I have a 36ft 2004 Itasca Meridian. I am trying to figure out if I should buy a few sheets of sandpaper or a whole roll. Please let me know what you think. Thank you.
With a heavy heart I have to tell you that Martin has passed away and I don't have the answer to your question. Sorry
@RVstreet I am so sorry for your loss. He was a great man and his legacy will live on via the knowledge he shared with the rest of the RV community.
Hey Martin, love your videos, a question, is that a wi fi booster on your coach? If so what kind? Where do you find it? Thanks Lee
Not a wifi booster but a cellular booster. This really helps us get a stronger cell signal so we can use our phones as a hot spot. Mine is the weBoost 4G-X that I installed 4yrs ago. weboost just released a newer version-about a year ago I think-called the WeBoost Drive Reach RV which is stronger and same price as I paid for mine 4yrs. ago. We couldn't do what we do without it. Traveling it is a must have IMO. I have both models in my Amazon Store in the Electronics category. www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet
thx Lee 👍
@@RVstreet Thank you Martin, your the best. Lee
Great video, thanks Martin. I have a 7 year old Allegro 34tga, our first motorhome that we purchased last year. When i got on the roof I saw what looked like a half an inch or more of the self leveling sealant. I have seen other videos that have removed the self levelpng sealant and replaced it with eternabond tape around the seams and roof penetrations. it looked cleaner than the mess I have and I was hoping to get your opinion on the use of the eternabond over the self leveling sealant. Also wondering if the fiberglass paint would go right over the tape if I decide to go that route. Thanks for all you do for the RV community.
Not sure what "roof penetrations" are...
My roof was a mess too when I bought it. That's why I started from scratch. Do it once and do it right. I've never had to worry about my roof.
I like using Eternabond tape over the front & rear caps only. Why? Because those are the two most vulnerable areas for leaking and they take the most stress. This is one area I don't want to have to deal with down the road, so using Eternabond tape is pretty much a permanent fix there. The chances of me ever having to pull the front or rear cap off are slim to none. I followed up with self leveling sealant over that to provide additional protection from the sun and then the Dicor coating over that. Sun is brutal as you know.
I would never use Eternabond tape over any other areas because it's to permanent and very difficult to get off if I want or need to replace something like a vent gets cracked, or I need to change out my antenna or a branch breaks a cover or whatever. The self leveling sealant you saw in my video is 5 years old and looks like it was put on yesterday. So no..... no Eternabond tape anywhere else for me. I know others feel differently but that's ok.
That roof had been MARTINIZED...
Mr.Martin.. Thank you..I have a Safari trek with an frp roof too... Doesn't Winnebago revoke using nuflex 311 silicone sealant?
How did your get the dicor sealpoint l sealant to stick around the vents etc...
Was there 311 sealant on the end caps originally? How did you get the eternabond to stick?
I need to do maintenance and recoat
Well remember our coach is a 2012. I don't know what type of self leveling sealant they used then. But for me it didn't matter. I stripped off all the old sealant off. Then sanded the entire roof. Then wiped down with acetone, then cleaned it with the Dicor cleaner. So I started from scratch. Once the roof was down to bare bones, then I laid down the eternabond tape, then applied a thick amount of the Dicor self leveling sealant over that and everything else up there. Then put 3 coats of the Dicor roof coating over all that. In the 5 years since I've done that all my sealant still looks brand new. No touch ups, no cracking, no nothing at all. That sealant or tape isn't going anywhere.
NOTE: I do not use any type of silicone sealant anywhere on our RV. I hate silicone.
Now on the rounded roof edges, where it tucks in behind the roof gutter, I originally used Nuflex 640 for that when I redid all those seams also 5yrs. ago when I redid the roof. And it has done fairly well, but since then I've switched to my polyurathane product I showed you. That stuff bonds like crazy, stays white-doesn't yellow-or start to crack. It's pretty amazing stuff. But I do still check my seams a couple of times a year and in fact just last week I dug out a couple of areas that had the Nuflex 640 cause it was looking a little questionable and then applied the polyurathane sealant. But other than that no other maintenance at all the last 5yrs. except washing it a couple times a year.
@@RVstreet thank you so much Mr. Martin... This video and this write up is my guide... My roof is from 98.. Original fiberglass... Is there a way I can reglue it or do I have to get a new fiberglass sheet. To replace the original one...
Thank you again... Watching your RV maintenance especially on the generator... That overhaul at my local rv center is $450 labor plus parts....
@@camposvazquez What do you mean by "Is there a way I can reglue it"? Tell me what's going on.
@@RVstreet I apologize for not being clear.... My fiberglass roof is original from 1998... I was told that eventually the glue holding the fiberglass roof to the luan will dry out.... This will cause the roof too separate..... Can my original fiberglass roof be reused and reglued..... Or do I have to buy a new fiberglass roof and glue that?
Thank you again.... Just watched your video on replacing the 12v water pump... My Pump ended up being good... It was the screen that was severely clogged up
Question I am getting ready to reseal my Fiberglass roof. So far I have redone all vents and end caps by removing old dicor and replacing with new. My question is using the dicor fiberglass cleaner. So you said you use a bucket and us a rag and rinse the rag and apply. My Question is do I need a seperate bucket with clean water and use a seperate rag and wipe off the fiberglass cleaner or do you just apply it with a rag and than leave it on the roof and than come back with the Aciton with a rag does that remove the cleaner .
I'm so sad to say that Martin has passed away and I don't have the answer to your question.
@@RVstreet so sorry to hear about your loss prayers and thoughts are with you
Another great video Martin. That coating you put on, how long does it last before you need to re/apply redo the roof?
I did my roof in 2016 and still looks great and I applied 3 coats back then which took 2 gallons and I'm 35' long. It's a fantastic product and now all I have to do is wash it. Definitely one of the smartest upgrades I did right off the bat.
Take your time and prep the roof right first. That's important to get a good, long lasting result.
Currently it's not available on Amazon therefore not in my store. Once it becomes available again it will be in my store again. Supply chain issues right like everything else. But you MAY find it at a local RV dealer. Dicor doesn't sell to the general public.
www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet
Awesome video! I have a fifth wheel with a TPO roof. What product would you recommend for this type of roof to have the same benefits of the product you used?
Water damage is a sign of a leaky roof, which is usually caused by separated seams that allow water to enter your insulation. However, if your roof saturation level is under 25% and your remaining seams are in good condition, you can install a silicone restoration system to restore your TPO roof.
A primer will not be needed on a TPO roof that is over five years old because an oily film (found on new TPO) will have worn away. If the oily film is still present, it will prevent the silicone from adhering to TPO properly. If your roof saturation is above 25%, remove the TPO and insulation and install a new roofing system.
I’m not well versed in coating TPO roofs but I did some research for you. Perhaps this would be the way to go.
www.gaf.com/en-us/roofing-products/commercial-roofing-products/tpo-roofing-systems/tpo-primers-sealants/sealants/everguard-one-part-pourable-sealant