DIY'er here. I've done about 20 door casings and made a hash of nearly all of them. Pros don't often think of the little tips they've acquired over the years that us newbies have never heard. This video is the first I've seen that is genuinely helpful. I'm tempted to go rip off a casing, just to give it a try.
I havent done any of mine in my hime, in fear of them looking bad which in turn stresses me out cause I cant stand them unfinished. Im gonna try now I feel more informed now. I appreciate the tips also.
About to install my first door casing. Your step by step instruction is VERY helpful. Thanks for not making assumptions about your viewer’s skill levels.
You said " come right up close " . . . now , this is one of the most helpful tips for the making of this hands-on videos since you truly helped me to see what you did . Thank you so much for your great skills and empathy for the ones like me that need help to do it better.
Keep up the great work, ur awesome. I'm a 4th Generation carpenter. I was the black sheep of the family and retired as a 25 year police & medic veteran. I never gave up my roots though I still do carpentry -My family mentors have passed. Thank you for this; this is my "whoo-saa" now.
I worked with an old school finish carpenter years ago that was so good you almost could have painted without caulking his trim. His crown molding and cabinet work was the best I’ve ever seen. I wish I had taken the time to learn from him but I was young and stupid so I missed the opportunity.
Trim carpenters must be the happiest people on earth. You get to see the fruits of your labor every day. Hands on - no technology to mess with your mind and soul.
Very nice video with helpful details; 2" nails, brad nailer, 1/4" reveal, hold it like a gangster, jambs first, etc. All of these little things that it's so hard to learn and you had it all, so thank you! And gluing the joints; who does that? Only someone who wants their work to last. Thank you, again.
So glad to see a carpenter spread the glue completely on cut ends of wood trim. It seals the grain and helps preventing joints opening up with humidity fluctuations. I do tons of poplar trim work.. Back-prime (not just the face) and glue your cuts completely. Only way to do it and not have joints galore open up.
Hey man. Just wanted to say thank you. I bought a house in 2021 and had 2 weeks to rip out and install new door casings in the entire house so it was safe for my family and kids to move in (it was that bad). And this video really helped me. Now I'm back watching again so I can finish the one door I wasn't able to get to.
A helpful video, thanks. One safety tip that I would add is that when somebody is cutting a 45 angle on the mitre saw, to keep the hand that is holding the wood in a position so where it is impossible for it to get sucked into the blade. The saw teeth are circling clockwise meaning that it will tend to pull the wood (where one's right hand is holding the wood to the rail) into the saw's blade, and possibly pull one's hand into the blade if it moves along with the wood. So what I do is lock my wood-holding hand into a position so that it is impossible for it to get sucked into the blade, in case the wood gets jerked into the blade.
I fo this for a living and your work is fantastic. Extremely text book correct on everything you did. It does take a few minutes longer to do this correctly but it is worth it. I wish I worked with people like you. Today fast is good but it is sloppy work. Fantastic!!
Scrambled O I will add my thanks to scrambled O’s observations. For the home DIYer your instructions are fantastic! Thanks for sharing your expertise and years of experience.
I think that is the most important part of his videos. If he just says he does something "just because" it makes it so we put our own input (ignorantly) and that is why we end up wrong. We don't know what we don't know.
Been doing home projects for about two years now and never knew about holding my nail gun gangster style. Thumbs up for that tip. I've had more than a couple of nails veer out on me. Thanks!
Thanks. I've been following your vids and you make everything look so easy. You're also humble and soft talking, not like some other (great) channels that think they are cool if they yell and gesticulate.
Yes, you did get lucky. My experience apparently has been as yours, that the miters do not always come out right the first try. That is why I always put the header piece up first and then match the legs. I have seen many people use your way by putting the legs up first. The problem being is that when you don't "get lucky" you wind up cutting the header shorter and then your reveal must be adjusted. If you get really unlucky and both miters of the header have to be adjusted then your reveal will wind up being noticeably off. On the other hand if you make your adjustment to the leg then at worst you will wind up with a small space at the sub floor which, if the finish floor is carpet, tile or wood, it will not matter at all. I liken this to painting yourself into a corner, but then each has their method I suppose. One more thing, when I was a young man such as you I did not bother to wear hearing protection either and now I am paying the price. Do yourself a favor and take care of your health at work. Despite my critiques I think you've made a great video!
You just need to bisect the angle of the door jamb on both ends. Carry a mitre protractor in your belt for this. No getting lucky, no weird reveals, no adjusting and no different length hypotenuse on mitres.
So appreciate you sharing your skills and the tricks of your craft. I've thoroughly enjoyed watching/learning from your videos. Love the common sense approach and the wit "All gangster"! Thanks!
It’s called a T Square lol going to get me one BEFORE I start installing my door trim. The present baseboards are no longer made so I going to have to install all new baseboards & door trim throughout the house. One room at a time. Appreciate your expertise & detailed instructions. Hope I can do as good a job as you’ve done. Learning as I go. lol
Really appreciate your channel. I've been renovating my house and I get tremendous help from your videos. I find with your guidance I'm getting fantastic results. Takes more time than slapping it together but the results are far more professional. Thanks for the efforts!
I just want to say thank you for taking the time to make detailed door casing video. I had never done this before and just finished and it is (OK). Not as flush as yours, but, flush enough for me. At any rate, especially defining the tools needed was key. Your communication in this video is benchmark.
I have this speed square from harbour freight. 3 dollars and it has a 1/4” pivot point, works perfectly as well. Forgot to glue for the second time today though. Gotta take it easy on the grass.. Thanks for the great videos. Been a lotta help this last half year.
Really appreciate the attention to detail here--in both your work itself and your explanations. You have a great blend of expertise and approachability, and I hope your videos help spark a revival of interest in the skilled trades. We are in so much trouble with so many older tradesmen retiring and so few wanting to take their place. The long-term pro-college, anti-trades bias in North America is truly going to back up everyone's toilets and make our buildings fall.
Everyones toilets and buildings are already failing! I know because I am fixing them every day! Also, we are already at the trades shortage people have been warning us about. I feel really bad for the average homeowner trying to get ANY work done. It's a real gamble if you can even find someone these days.
I find it interesting how meticulous getting a perfect drywall finish can be and yet planing down the door frame to be flat is considered excessive for most doors in the house. Not being negative, I just find that interesting. I've learned so much watching your content and I consider you the best resource on youtube for learning this type of stuff.
I don't think he is trying to say it is excessive, just that most folks opt for speed as they don't get paid by the hour. It is 'good enough' vs 'good'.
Not sure you’ll even see this, but thanks for this tutorial, currently install my first door trim in my house and this gave me the confidence to do it!
Thanks for the tips. I put all MDF base, shoe and casings in my house 15 years ago now that I have had the kitchen and bath done all modern I decided to change all the moulding to what you just did 1/2 x3 and base will be 1/2 x 5 1/2. The plane moulding is more appropriate for a modern look. Some of your tips with the glazing bar and glue on top are new to me plus the way to hold the nail gun. Thanks. I went out and bought a Milwaukee battery finish nail gun because I have the Milwaukee battery system. So much easier than dealing with a compressor cord and noise. I have a 2000 foot home to install. You have a favorite miter saw stand you like. I want a stand this time. I was cutting on the garage floor before.
@@R1ckyfrankl1n Anyone can paint, but after time of experience. As a beginner I would cut in wavy so bad it forced me to use tape. But after a few years, I could cut straight with my eyes closed while I'm balancing myself on a basketball and drunk as hell. Jk. But you get my point. Lol
Added advice for new people that he never mentioned: - No two miters are never the same so be sure when you cut your two side pieces, make sure your top piece is scribed in to make it tight and depending on your blade, cut just top of the line. - Not every 45* is 45* so be sure your miter saw has a correct 45 so check it with your speed square. I have a hitachi miter saw and the 45 is more like 43* and zero is like +/- 1* so double check first. - When cutting, don't just eyeball it and go for it... Cut about an inch above the line to check your miter line to make sure the cut matches the line and THEN you can get closet and close in on that cut. - When you are nailing your pieces together, Throw a couple brads from the side and top corners of the trim as well. - No need to glue, that does no good and just breaks the more you open and close the door and/or settling of the home, simply use some wood putty and/or caulk to seal off the lines. - There's no "chisel point", you can shoot straight or at an angle disregard that. I've shot at hard angles and still had them turn so that he said don't matter. - Don't just "line up and shoot"... Plumb your first piece, shoot ONE BRAD AND STOP! Go to the top and assure your plumb up top, shoot it. Do the bottom. THEN you can start firing away the rest. - Someone said "always nail your header first" .... There's no federal penal code to do it that way "always". I've done it both ways and get the same result. Overall, miters are fun and challenging at the same time, always cut and measure, check and repeat. Don't just jam one at the miter and place it.
You have such a lovely way presenting tips and tricks, such gentle guidance. Pleasure watching your videos, even though I don't have a door casing in my near future. :-)
Put a trash bin under the miter saw, no one does it and I can't understand why? It is so easy and keeps the site clean. Great videos by the way, I really enjoy them
Gareth Kalber, TOTALLY!!! I hate tripping over garbage, plus saws are dangerous and most guys have the biggest messes at their feet while working with their saw.
I was thinking of tackling replacing the current door frames but man oh man am I scared!! This helped greatly!!!! Wish I did this kind of stuff for a living!! Or at least have the knowledge! Thank you for all of your posts!!!❤️
Thanks for the tips to install casing. I purchased the door yesterday and will be installing today. When finished I will re-do some of my old casing installs that were not as pretty.
This type of video remind me how not enough it is to buy a book about how to do this type of work. Thanks a lot! Now I can finally stop having to fill my not 45 degrees angle with silicone :D
That's a good habit with spreading the glue. It's especially necessary when installing solid wood trim as it seals the wood grain and prevents/minimizes moisture getting into the wood and causing miters to come apart.
I Tend To Use A Pin Nailer To Nail The 45s Together, One Shot Down From The Header To The Leg, And One From The Side Into The Header...When It Comes To My Reveals, I Get My Reveal Off The Hinge Side By Placing The Leg Against The Hinges Because Sometimes Homeowners Will Change Hinges On Us, So Our Reveals Have Ranged From 1/8 To 5/8 Of An Inch...Thats Miami Custom Homes For Ya, LoL...Good Work Man...I Enjoy Continuing Education In This Trade, And I Subscribed
Bro these videos are helping me SO MUCH. I just got into finish carpentry and The info/tips you share definitely help me not look so clueless while on the job haha. 🙏 thank you!
Nice. Everyone does tutorials on walls and frames that are absolutely perfect. Then it doesn't work when you try it in the real world. I think your tips are definitely going to help when I give this a go on my definitely less-than-perfect 1920's walls/doorframes.
I'm a do it yourself guy and I have to say in your video I learned a couple of the little things that make the job way easier! I'm not the subscribe type of guy either but I just did!! You explain things a lamens way with the invaluable little tricks! People think trim work is just slap it up easy but if you don't know the little tricks it could look like a bag of butts and leave you scratching your head thinking... "how do I make this work?!" Thanks a bunch bud and outstanding video! 🤘
I used to do site work years ago brings back some memories. I used to put the mitred head up first then go from there but planing the architrave up to fit the frame.
Vancouver Carpenter , in the US we call it a combination sq this is a sliding t bevel. www.homedepot.com/p/Johnson-T-Bevel-B75/100353824?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CBase%7CD29A%7CMulti%7CNA%7CPLA%7CMajor-Appliances%7CSpecial-Buys%7c71700000032418849%7c58700003842365800%7c92700030987191770&gclid=CjwKCAiA8rnfBRB3EiwAhrhBGkiGfgAtlPInkJmsbKT6wFOy1tLAXGJvB67JTpI8XAQS3hb65wz9TxoClasQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Nice video. Thanks! Joe homeowner here. I am commenting here not to criticize but because you obviously care about the final product. (Impressive) Frankly, hiring contractors is usually frustrating (to me) because the longer term quality is lousy. Example: a contractor installed baseboard in my house. Two years later. the baseboard is separating from the wall by 1/16 inch. Contractor is long gone. He was a pro. I am a nobody. When I install trim/baseboard, I put a light bead of matching color adhesive caulk (painter's caulk) on the inside outer rim of the baseboard.... Basically, this adds flexibilty (baseboard/and door frames get a few kicks) and glues it to the wall. Then I nail it. Caulk squishes out a tiny bit. Finally, I wipe with damp paper towel to seal joint. (I note you do a bit of this) It never separates from the wall. Yes, more cost, more labor. Contractors hate this... but, isn't hiring a pro ultimately outcome oriented? Imagine my "joy" (sarcasm) at having to redo his job.
Thanks Vancouver Carpenter, I followed your guidance and just installed some casings that for the first time didn't look terrible.... Also thanks to your tip on the gangsta style grip I looked cool while installing it.
Great content. I've watched a lot of your videos recently as I was working on a small diy project. Found your videos really helpful. Thanks, and best wishes
You may want to consider a video on how to cut a head piece if the jamb trim is out of plumb. You had the ideal situation in this video but not usually the case if retrofitting or DIYing. Good video. Thanks.
I assemble and glue all the casing together on a flat surface. I use spring clamps to hold the miters tight while the glue dries. The assembly goes up together and the miters always stay perfect. No tuning necessary. Please use saftey glasses. A 2" nail hitting the head of a drywall screw will do some crazy things.
You should do your headers first, try it you can do like 5-10 doors at the same time. You should also cut your casing on the face and on the backside, don't swing the saw so much. Try swinging the saw to the left and leaving it there cut thru the primer for 1 leg and thru the backside for the other. Easy. Also helps you not to have potentially different angles as opposite sides of the miter table *could be* different. Seen it before on that same Milwaukee 12. Maybe also consider glueing your casing too.. at least the first 6-10 inches where the miter is. Movement will break the miter joint regardless of the glue in the joint so gluing the casing to the wall is key. Finisher here in Calgary man, things are very slow. Glad to see someone still uses the old school way. There's actually a guy on UA-cam biscuit joining casing together.. also have seen someone pre-assemble the whole header and legs.. insane if that doesn't fit right you're in trouble. Lol. I also PL my window casing now.. no more movement. Have a good one!
I've assembled them on the ground...I've produced corners so perfect, it looks like they were carved from one piece of wood. But it took me two days. Lol. Why headers first?
DIY'er here. I've done about 20 door casings and made a hash of nearly all of them. Pros don't often think of the little tips they've acquired over the years that us newbies have never heard. This video is the first I've seen that is genuinely helpful. I'm tempted to go rip off a casing, just to give it a try.
I hope you've dont it already bro, if notjust fucking send it, practice makes perfect
I havent done any of mine in my hime, in fear of them looking bad which in turn stresses me out cause I cant stand them unfinished. Im gonna try now I feel more informed now. I appreciate the tips also.
question. is this applicable with concrete walls?
About to install my first door casing. Your step by step instruction is VERY helpful. Thanks for not making assumptions about your viewer’s skill levels.
You said " come right up close " . . . now , this is one of the most helpful tips for the making of this hands-on videos since you truly helped me to see what you did . Thank you so much for your great skills and empathy for the ones like me that need help to do it better.
Keep up the great work, ur awesome. I'm a 4th Generation carpenter. I was the black sheep of the family and retired as a 25 year police & medic veteran. I never gave up my roots though I still do carpentry -My family mentors have passed. Thank you for this; this is my "whoo-saa" now.
I worked with an old school finish carpenter years ago that was so good you almost could have painted without caulking his trim. His crown molding and cabinet work was the best I’ve ever seen. I wish I had taken the time to learn from him but I was young and stupid so I missed the opportunity.
Trim carpenters must be the happiest people on earth.
You get to see the fruits of your labor every day.
Hands on - no technology to mess with your mind and soul.
Very nice video with helpful details; 2" nails, brad nailer, 1/4" reveal, hold it like a gangster, jambs first, etc. All of these little things that it's so hard to learn and you had it all, so thank you! And gluing the joints; who does that? Only someone who wants their work to last. Thank you, again.
So glad to see a carpenter spread the glue completely on cut ends of wood trim. It seals the grain and helps preventing joints opening up with humidity fluctuations. I do tons of poplar trim work.. Back-prime (not just the face) and glue your cuts completely. Only way to do it and not have joints galore open up.
Hey man. Just wanted to say thank you. I bought a house in 2021 and had 2 weeks to rip out and install new door casings in the entire house so it was safe for my family and kids to move in (it was that bad). And this video really helped me. Now I'm back watching again so I can finish the one door I wasn't able to get to.
The only thing better than these tutorials is actually being in a classroom. Thanks so much for making them, VC!
A helpful video, thanks. One safety tip that I would add is that when somebody is cutting a 45 angle on the mitre saw, to keep the hand that is holding the wood in a position so where it is impossible for it to get sucked into the blade. The saw teeth are circling clockwise meaning that it will tend to pull the wood (where one's right hand is holding the wood to the rail) into the saw's blade, and possibly pull one's hand into the blade if it moves along with the wood. So what I do is lock my wood-holding hand into a position so that it is impossible for it to get sucked into the blade, in case the wood gets jerked into the blade.
I fo this for a living and your work is fantastic. Extremely text book correct on everything you did. It does take a few minutes longer to do this correctly but it is worth it. I wish I worked with people like you. Today fast is good but it is sloppy work. Fantastic!!
Great tutorial! I love how you add all the tidbits on why you cut of trim ends and how to use the t-bevel. That’s great teaching.
I bought a t-bevel years ago just because it is generally useful, never knew what it was actually for until this video.
When you told the camera to come closer, I became a fan. Great detailed video!!
I have watched tons of UA-cam… You my friend make great videos Always explain exactly what you’re doing and why you’re doing it. Thank you
Scrambled O I will add my thanks to scrambled O’s observations. For the home DIYer your instructions are fantastic! Thanks for sharing your expertise and years of experience.
I think that is the most important part of his videos. If he just says he does something "just because" it makes it so we put our own input (ignorantly) and that is why we end up wrong. We don't know what we don't know.
Been doing home projects for about two years now and never knew about holding my nail gun gangster style. Thumbs up for that tip. I've had more than a couple of nails veer out on me. Thanks!
Thanks. I've been following your vids and you make everything look so easy. You're also humble and soft talking, not like some other (great) channels that think they are cool if they yell and gesticulate.
Great video! Miters are definitely an experienced art to get a clean finish with no gap!
Yes, you did get lucky. My experience apparently has been as yours, that the miters do not always come out right the first try. That is why I always put the header piece up first and then match the legs. I have seen many people use your way by putting the legs up first. The problem being is that when you don't "get lucky" you wind up cutting the header shorter and then your reveal must be adjusted. If you get really unlucky and both miters of the header have to be adjusted then your reveal will wind up being noticeably off. On the other hand if you make your adjustment to the leg then at worst you will wind up with a small space at the sub floor which, if the finish floor is carpet, tile or wood, it will not matter at all. I liken this to painting yourself into a corner, but then each has their method I suppose. One more thing, when I was a young man such as you I did not bother to wear hearing protection either and now I am paying the price. Do yourself a favor and take care of your health at work. Despite my critiques I think you've made a great video!
You just need to bisect the angle of the door jamb on both ends. Carry a mitre protractor in your belt for this. No getting lucky, no weird reveals, no adjusting and no different length hypotenuse on mitres.
VC Carpenter you make it look easy. I enjoy your work, knowledge sharing, and humor.
You took the time to teach you are an excellent teacher my friend. For this just as you earn your pay you have earned my subscription ❤
So appreciate you sharing your skills and the tricks of your craft. I've thoroughly enjoyed watching/learning from your videos. Love the common sense approach and the wit "All gangster"!
Thanks!
It’s called a T Square lol going to get me one BEFORE I start installing my door trim. The present baseboards are no longer made so I going to have to install all new baseboards & door trim throughout the house. One room at a time. Appreciate your expertise & detailed instructions. Hope I can do as good a job as you’ve done. Learning as I go. lol
Really appreciate your channel. I've been renovating my house and I get tremendous help from your videos. I find with your guidance I'm getting fantastic results. Takes more time than slapping it together but the results are far more professional. Thanks for the efforts!
I just want to say thank you for taking the time to make detailed door casing video. I had never done this before and just finished and it is (OK). Not as flush as yours, but, flush enough for me.
At any rate, especially defining the tools needed was key.
Your communication in this video is benchmark.
I have this speed square from harbour freight. 3 dollars and it has a 1/4” pivot point, works perfectly as well.
Forgot to glue for the second time today though. Gotta take it easy on the grass..
Thanks for the great videos. Been a lotta help this last half year.
Great video.
This was my go-to video for doing this type of installation for the first time ever. Thank you!
Really appreciate the attention to detail here--in both your work itself and your explanations. You have a great blend of expertise and approachability, and I hope your videos help spark a revival of interest in the skilled trades. We are in so much trouble with so many older tradesmen retiring and so few wanting to take their place. The long-term pro-college, anti-trades bias in North America is truly going to back up everyone's toilets and make our buildings fall.
Everyones toilets and buildings are already failing! I know because I am fixing them every day! Also, we are already at the trades shortage people have been warning us about. I feel really bad for the average homeowner trying to get ANY work done. It's a real gamble if you can even find someone these days.
I find it interesting how meticulous getting a perfect drywall finish can be and yet planing down the door frame to be flat is considered excessive for most doors in the house. Not being negative, I just find that interesting. I've learned so much watching your content and I consider you the best resource on youtube for learning this type of stuff.
I don't think he is trying to say it is excessive, just that most folks opt for speed as they don't get paid by the hour. It is 'good enough' vs 'good'.
Thank you! I'd never done this, and now Ive done 12 in my house. Got it down to 25 min each. ☺️
I trim for a living. This is a very slow way of casing a door. Theres a much faster and more accurate way.
@@johnnyguttilla3009 can't wait for your video
@@johnnyguttilla3009 yes would love to see it.
@@johnnyguttilla3009 ya lets see it......dickwad
This video was incredibly helpful. I used every tip, technique he used and I ended up with pro results.
Not sure you’ll even see this, but thanks for this tutorial, currently install my first door trim in my house and this gave me the confidence to do it!
“Gangster style” that was a great way to remember 😂... great video, you have a new subscriber.
Also the tool for setting the reveal is called a combination square.
Thanks for the tips. I put all MDF base, shoe and casings in my house 15 years ago now that I have had the kitchen and bath done all modern I decided to change all the moulding to what you just did 1/2 x3 and base will be 1/2 x 5 1/2. The plane moulding is more appropriate for a modern look. Some of your tips with the glazing bar and glue on top are new to me plus the way to hold the nail gun. Thanks. I went out and bought a Milwaukee battery finish nail gun because I have the Milwaukee battery system. So much easier than dealing with a compressor cord and noise. I have a 2000 foot home to install. You have a favorite miter saw stand you like. I want a stand this time. I was cutting on the garage floor before.
Outstanding attention to detail. The mark of a craftsman
Outstanding video. Proper measurement and superb fine adjustment technique.
"cause that's no fun for the painters" thank you! finally another trade thought of us!
That’s because anyone can paint. How you do it all day I will never know. Simpletons
@@R1ckyfrankl1n Anyone can paint, but after time of experience. As a beginner I would cut in wavy so bad it forced me to use tape. But after a few years, I could cut straight with my eyes closed while I'm balancing myself on a basketball and drunk as hell. Jk. But you get my point. Lol
@@obeycastle2547 nobody gives a crap how you make your 10$/hr loser
Read more
Scumbag
@@justindecker9557 Damn guy, you need a hug.
@@R1ckyfrankl1n anyone can cut wood boards and hammer them in too... it's just that most people are lazy... try being an engineer for a day. A-hole.
i like this guy. watched many of his videos. very skilled and just seems like all around good dude.
This was great! The casings in my primary bedroom look awful, now I feel more confident about tackling this myself.
Added advice for new people that he never mentioned:
- No two miters are never the same so be sure when you cut your two side pieces, make sure your top piece is scribed in to make it tight and depending on your blade, cut just top of the line.
- Not every 45* is 45* so be sure your miter saw has a correct 45 so check it with your speed square. I have a hitachi miter saw and the 45 is more like 43* and zero is like +/- 1* so double check first.
- When cutting, don't just eyeball it and go for it... Cut about an inch above the line to check your miter line to make sure the cut matches the line and THEN you can get closet and close in on that cut.
- When you are nailing your pieces together, Throw a couple brads from the side and top corners of the trim as well.
- No need to glue, that does no good and just breaks the more you open and close the door and/or settling of the home, simply use some wood putty and/or caulk to seal off the lines.
- There's no "chisel point", you can shoot straight or at an angle disregard that. I've shot at hard angles and still had them turn so that he said don't matter.
- Don't just "line up and shoot"... Plumb your first piece, shoot ONE BRAD AND STOP! Go to the top and assure your plumb up top, shoot it. Do the bottom. THEN you can start firing away the rest.
- Someone said "always nail your header first" .... There's no federal penal code to do it that way "always". I've done it both ways and get the same result.
Overall, miters are fun and challenging at the same time, always cut and measure, check and repeat. Don't just jam one at the miter and place it.
You have such a lovely way presenting tips and tricks, such gentle guidance. Pleasure watching your videos, even though I don't have a door casing in my near future. :-)
This guy is pretty good with tips and tricks
That "tool" is called a "combination square". Good video, I enjoyed watching it.
I've been figuring out how to do that, first on my mom's kitchen doors. I'll be using a miter box. Thanks for the demo.
Good craftsmanship and good teacher
Another great video. Best Carpentry channel on the Tubes!
I'm just starting the construction phase of my first DIY reno on a house we just bought, and your videos are helping a lot! Thanks!
Awesome! :)
You used a door plane on the frame as first operation..(edit) wow great idea. I will use my plane more often. Great work btw
Beautiful! I knew this guy was legit when he held the gun gangster style for the nailing!
Put a trash bin under the miter saw, no one does it and I can't understand why? It is so easy and keeps the site clean. Great videos by the way, I really enjoy them
Gareth Kalber, TOTALLY!!! I hate tripping over garbage, plus saws are dangerous and most guys have the biggest messes at their feet while working with their saw.
I was thinking of tackling replacing the current door frames but man oh man am I scared!! This helped greatly!!!! Wish I did this kind of stuff for a living!! Or at least have the knowledge! Thank you for all of your posts!!!❤️
Thanks for the tips to install casing. I purchased the door yesterday and will be installing today. When finished I will re-do some of my old casing installs that were not as pretty.
Another great and informative video, Ben! You are very good at what you do and I will be installing door stop molding for a customer later today :)
Love how you remember what a glaizers bar is but not a standard combo square 🤣 great video, just about to start my casing
Great video and techniques! They work like a charm! 👏👏👏
I live in Kansas City and I've been a painting contractor for 25 years. Would you please move here and start building stuff that I can paint?
This type of video remind me how not enough it is to buy a book about how to do this type of work. Thanks a lot! Now I can finally stop having to fill my not 45 degrees angle with silicone :D
How did this happen???? A professional how-to video on youtube! Nice work my friend.
“Leg going down, all gangster “.. comedy and learning. Thank you
Very nicely done and explained. I’m always learning little tricks from you. Go Canucks!
That's a good habit with spreading the glue. It's especially necessary when installing solid wood trim as it seals the wood grain and prevents/minimizes moisture getting into the wood and causing miters to come apart.
Very nice and informative videos, best channel i've come across in a long time.
Man! I’m learning so much! Thanks for doing these videos!
Great simple tips that really make a huge difference, great videos as always
I Tend To Use A Pin Nailer To Nail The 45s Together, One Shot Down From The Header To The Leg, And One From The Side Into The Header...When It Comes To My Reveals, I Get My Reveal Off The Hinge Side By Placing The Leg Against The Hinges Because Sometimes Homeowners Will Change Hinges On Us, So Our Reveals Have Ranged From 1/8 To 5/8 Of An Inch...Thats Miami Custom Homes For Ya, LoL...Good Work Man...I Enjoy Continuing Education In This Trade, And I Subscribed
Bro these videos are helping me SO MUCH. I just got into finish carpentry and The info/tips you share definitely help me not look so clueless while on the job haha. 🙏 thank you!
Thank You-MY skills exceed my expectations.This will will help in more than one area...AWESOME...
Mike Tabers from Texas...
I used to be a painter and know how this goes, being in Chicago, I graduated to trim man....I nail it up, and let the painters fix it
Two year old video yet still the first one I've seen that wasn't dry wall. Lol but love seeing this done well.
Great video Clear instruction thank u for taking the time to make the clip and sharing it,All the best from Australia
Thanks for the clear and simple video! It's called a combination square btw
I don’t know much but this looked awesome to me. Great video and very helpful!
Nice. Everyone does tutorials on walls and frames that are absolutely perfect. Then it doesn't work when you try it in the real world. I think your tips are definitely going to help when I give this a go on my definitely less-than-perfect 1920's walls/doorframes.
I do this type of work for my handyman biz and I like how you used the glaziers bar to line up the miters
Wyatt's dad are you Wyatt’s dad?😂😂 love names like that make me chuckle
I'm a do it yourself guy and I have to say in your video I learned a couple of the little things that make the job way easier! I'm not the subscribe type of guy either but I just did!! You explain things a lamens way with the invaluable little tricks! People think trim work is just slap it up easy but if you don't know the little tricks it could look like a bag of butts and leave you scratching your head thinking... "how do I make this work?!" Thanks a bunch bud and outstanding video! 🤘
As a guy whose recent trim job looks like a bag of butts, I feel this deeply 🤣
Simple, clean, great useful tips, very nicely done!
I’ve watched this so many times and finally put it to use, appreciate your videos
Somehow I've stumbled on a good diy, and then realize I used to watch this guy's skate vids... Small world
You are like a good Italian carpenter and craftsman.
I used to do site work years ago brings back some memories. I used to put the mitred head up first then go from there but planing the architrave up to fit the frame.
Thank you! I just remembered the sliding T bevel is the one for finding angles.
Vancouver Carpenter , in the US we call it a combination sq
this is a sliding t bevel.
www.homedepot.com/p/Johnson-T-Bevel-B75/100353824?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CBase%7CD29A%7CMulti%7CNA%7CPLA%7CMajor-Appliances%7CSpecial-Buys%7c71700000032418849%7c58700003842365800%7c92700030987191770&gclid=CjwKCAiA8rnfBRB3EiwAhrhBGkiGfgAtlPInkJmsbKT6wFOy1tLAXGJvB67JTpI8XAQS3hb65wz9TxoClasQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
@@markschiavone8003 I use that as a angle finder
Benji Mcdowell , I actually just got a digital T - bevel for trim and its awesome.
Whats kind of wood did you use here?
@@antoinegoins it’s just pre primed MDF (medium density fibreboard). Cheap and easy to use
Thank you for such a great video! I am about to do door casing on my first home myself and found this to be very informative.
This video helped me install my first door moulding!
All your videos are awesome and well explained. I have all the tools so I'm doing my bedroom. Should get the wife off my back. LOL Thanks You!
Nice video. Thanks! Joe homeowner here. I am commenting here not to criticize but because you obviously care about the final product. (Impressive) Frankly, hiring contractors is usually frustrating (to me) because the longer term quality is lousy. Example: a contractor installed baseboard in my house. Two years later. the baseboard is separating from the wall by 1/16 inch. Contractor is long gone. He was a pro. I am a nobody. When I install trim/baseboard, I put a light bead of matching color adhesive caulk (painter's caulk) on the inside outer rim of the baseboard.... Basically, this adds flexibilty (baseboard/and door frames get a few kicks) and glues it to the wall. Then I nail it. Caulk squishes out a tiny bit. Finally, I wipe with damp paper towel to seal joint. (I note you do a bit of this) It never separates from the wall. Yes, more cost, more labor. Contractors hate this... but, isn't hiring a pro ultimately outcome oriented? Imagine my "joy" (sarcasm) at having to redo his job.
Thanks for these great videos! I've watched a few of your videos and looking forward to watching the rest and learning. Keep the vids coming!
Thanks Vancouver Carpenter, I followed your guidance and just installed some casings that for the first time didn't look terrible.... Also thanks to your tip on the gangsta style grip I looked cool while installing it.
Great content. I've watched a lot of your videos recently as I was working on a small diy project. Found your videos really helpful. Thanks, and best wishes
Wait, this tripped me out, came here looking to learn a little door trim and found the dude that usually teaches me kickflips. Lol.
I just got my casing for my bathroom doors and this is going to help me so much!!
This guy sounds and almost looks like Mr Rogers! .. seriously. You gotta look it up .. You also do a GREAT JOB !!
Hey gentlemen, I appreciate your time, your work is amazing, I'm learning from you, thank you again
this helped me alot , and you get extra points for making me laugh with your cheesy gangsta style method . Thanks for your help
You may want to consider a video on how to cut a head piece if the jamb trim is out of plumb. You had the ideal situation in this video but not usually the case if retrofitting or DIYing. Good video. Thanks.
I assemble and glue all the casing together on a flat surface. I use spring clamps to hold the miters tight while the glue dries. The assembly goes up together and the miters always stay perfect. No tuning necessary. Please use saftey glasses. A 2" nail hitting the head of a drywall screw will do some crazy things.
I feel like such a dork I've seen so many Vancouver drywall videos and have just subscribed... my fault 😂
Excellent tutorial Sir. It’s nice that you work on your house when you aren’t filming ‘The Boyz’😬
At 6:51, your reference to 90s gangster rap videos was hilarious as it was helpful!
Your videos are real-world... thanks for your insights.
Wow! You make excellent videos, and you are an excellent craftsman.
thanks for the tip about nail gun orientation. I always pre-assemble my casings using clam clamps and CA glue.
Another winner! You are amazing. Thanks!
You should do your headers first, try it you can do like 5-10 doors at the same time. You should also cut your casing on the face and on the backside, don't swing the saw so much. Try swinging the saw to the left and leaving it there cut thru the primer for 1 leg and thru the backside for the other. Easy. Also helps you not to have potentially different angles as opposite sides of the miter table *could be* different. Seen it before on that same Milwaukee 12. Maybe also consider glueing your casing too.. at least the first 6-10 inches where the miter is. Movement will break the miter joint regardless of the glue in the joint so gluing the casing to the wall is key.
Finisher here in Calgary man, things are very slow. Glad to see someone still uses the old school way. There's actually a guy on UA-cam biscuit joining casing together.. also have seen someone pre-assemble the whole header and legs.. insane if that doesn't fit right you're in trouble. Lol. I also PL my window casing now.. no more movement. Have a good one!
I've assembled them on the ground...I've produced corners so perfect, it looks like they were carved from one piece of wood. But it took me two days. Lol.
Why headers first?