I think the main advantage using natural is the finish they bring while developing slur. I mean, the vast majority of people I've seen going for natural stone, was people searching for a very fine Kasumi finish on the blade (over 6000 Kasumi finish) Developing a slur, and then lift up the pressure and use the slur to make the hagane/jigane distinction appears on the kireha while sharpening and preserve it through the progression. A lot of dedication is needed through the process. Synthetic above 6000 tend to erase the Kasumi hagane/jigane distinction, while giving uniform mirror polish over the kireha. It seems natural can bring very fine mirrorlike hagane, and preserve nice hazy/dark jigane because of the non uniformity in the grit. Beside of that, and the feeling/feedback, I think I'll go synthetic for more typical western double beveled knife. Give much much more for the money.
I was first upset about this video, when I saw the short version and conclusion. Then I watched the full version here, and when I think about it I'm actually quite happy with what I see, and the things you say. Why was I upset when I saw it the first time? For multiple reasons, you walk into the experience sceptical about cutting speed, because natural stones are sometimes thought of as these magical stones that are significantly better then synthetics in all aspects, and that just leads to disappointment, especially on a stone like this. The "harder"but still relatively soft akamusa, is similar to our the same thing as a binsui. It's a very readily available and cheap stone that is not very fast cutting on it's own, you have one of the softer versions there, looks very nice to me, it's faster cutting then the harder ones. The reason I'm happy with the video is when I got my binsui, I like many other was disappointed, but after having gotten aquatinted with it, it's likely my favourite stone. I could ramble about this for a while, the main things I wanted to say was: a stone like this takes a little learning to get the most out of, this should really be used with slurry, you got your atomas they should do great for raising some before you begin the session. The main thing this does it's improve cut speed and feel. The second thing is, a large part of the allure of using something like this is that the grain of the stones is not consistent, and that will result in a toothier edge, something your weight can't test. You can also combine slurry from different natural stones to get an even more refined yet still toothy edge on a stone like this. Therefore I was a little sad when you went on your strop immediately after sharpening, even more so with compound. This is not the stone I reach for when I want to remove a lot of material, but I really like the edges on my stainless knives, and I don't feel like the speed is a problem unless the knife is very thick behind the edge Also this stone does not represent all coarse jnat, it does not even represent all akamusas, they are all slightly different for better or worse
I would like to see close ups of the bevel before and after the sharpening in your videos. Seeing the finish is also a factor in choosing stones I feel.
Question : Hi Ricky. I'm really found of your videos, even if I'm french and it's sometimes difficult for me to understand everything. So excuse me for my poor english. Nevertheless, I wondering if you have ever tried the new diamond line of Naniwa. I sharpen all my knives on Naniwa professionnal and Suehiro Cerax and Rika, but I'm very interested in this stones. TY for your answer.
I have this one and the red one. I felt they were cutting very slow even with the aus 8. But they worked very well with the knives that were made of softer steel like 5Cr. And these stones cost less than $50 each. Also, you can use them to thin the cladding iron of your knives. They left mild scratches and save your core steel.
Hi try the knife on food. I juse both syntetic and natural stones. And The edges done with my Hideriyama or takashima stone are mutch more agresive and feels alot more sharper and bites alot more than my knives sharpen by syntestic stones. Im also a knife sharp nerd and sharpen every Day.
Riky, these are actually good stones. They are not soaking stones. Splash and go only as they will fall apart if soaked. Yes, flatten with the atoma 400. This stone works well with nagura slurries and light touch when progressing to mejiro and koma for final polish.
Great video. Judging from the sound, it sure is a pretty interesting stone to work with. If this is a "real natural" stone, like cut from a natural occuring rock, then I would go for a full soak. Like 1h+ in water or so. Since those real natural stones are made from ocean sediments, there is no over watering them. They can be left in water for days on end or even longer and won't come apart, as the natural bonding is way stronger then any synthetic one. (At least from my knowledge)
I thought the Chosera 600 was your favourite (from a recent video)? I picked up the 600 from that suggestion, hoping to end up with a 2-stone Setup 600 > 2000 > strop
I'd take that over the super muddy 800 and super hard and very fine somewhat slow 3k he normally shills. chosera 800 is very friable and muddy. the 400 and 600 are not
Hey Ricky, e really enjoy your videos, u clearly say what u see and feel when reviewing whetstones, did u ever consider making a review on the sigma select stones or the king hyper series, a lot of people like this stones.
For a very inexpensive natural stone it's not bad but after trial and error I only buy natural stones for polishing now. Yes, good ones can be hundreds of dollars but polishing on natural stones turns into a hobby all to itself. Particularly for single bevel knives where polishing can really enhance a knife.
I have it and its a great stone, very big so it will last a very long time and leaves a great edge without forming a burr due to its softness. It is very easy to gouge the stone because of how soft it is so you have to have good angle control. Its a great finishing stone for stainless steel knives or a good stone for cleaning up the edge before moving on to high grit polishing stones. Check out the channel mrknifefanatic for a good review of it. look for his videos that mention the green brick.
I have a love/hate relationship with that stone. It's a very soft stone that releases abrasive very quickly. It has quite a large range depending on how you work the slurry, it will polish well beyond its rated grit. I find that it will work pretty well for soft stainless steels and carbon steel but I usually don't get very good results with harder, more wear resistant stainless for some reason. IMO it's a better stepping stone than a stone I would want to finish on for most knives. It will leave a nice clean bevel ready for refinement or to take a micro bevel very well though..I'm just not usually satisfied with the edge quality it produces unless it's one of those softer stainless knives or a carbon steel knife. I think one of the reasons is all the mud it produces, I figure it's constantly impacting the edge a little bit and killing the sharpness of the edge to some extent. At the same time that same quality is what makes it good at a leaving a relatively clean bevel because the slurry also makes it a stone that doesn't turn much of a burr in my experience. The sharpness it's capable of producing is probably perfectly acceptable for most, I'm just a serious edge snob. I'm sure others have had different results and thoughts about it given the large differences between people's technique and what they are usually sharpening. Bottom line is many people love the stone which says something and it does have its uses; even for someone like me who like hard stones. It's also huge for a 2k, just be aware it's a very soft, muddy stone. Good thing to some and a negative to others. I'm a big fan of Shapton Ha No Kuromaku stones so it's a little hard for me to make friends with such a soft stone, especially for double bevel knives with small surface areas. Harder stones tend to produce more crisp, sharp edges IME but they are also less forgiving; at least for me. By the way the Shapton Pro/Ha No Kuromaku 2K is probably the best stone in the line if you want something harder, it's a totally different stone. It works well on everything I've tried and is capable of leaving a ridiculously sharp edge on many of my carbon knives. It cuts fast and leaves a really nice edge, I stop right there a lot of the time unless I want super ridiculous and bring it to the 8k or 12k.
I restore chisel and planes, where flatness of the back is important, what sharpening stone would you recommend for the initial major pass, I often need to remove a lot of material because they are dinged and have never been properly flattened.
Probably a diamond stone like the Atoma 140 if you're looking to hog off a lot of material, it will stay flat throughout sharpening which is important for chisels and planes.
Thanks! Full review on the debado stones please! They’re available in the western market now :) There’s a pro model with a base attached much like the original or japanese version of the choseras and around $30 cheaper!
Tengo un cuchillo de la marca kai de la serie shun para lonchear jamón algo muy tradicional en España de hecho es parte de mi trabajo ademas de mi pasión por que no nos enseñas a afilarlo
Can European people participate in your give aways? For exemple, I'm French and I would be so interested !!! 😊 Oh and amazing channel, helps me relax so much, not sure why 😆
I think the main advantage using natural is the finish they bring while developing slur.
I mean, the vast majority of people I've seen going for natural stone, was people searching for a very fine Kasumi finish on the blade (over 6000 Kasumi finish)
Developing a slur, and then lift up the pressure and use the slur to make the hagane/jigane distinction appears on the kireha while sharpening and preserve it through the progression.
A lot of dedication is needed through the process.
Synthetic above 6000 tend to erase the Kasumi hagane/jigane distinction, while giving uniform mirror polish over the kireha.
It seems natural can bring very fine mirrorlike hagane, and preserve nice hazy/dark jigane because of the non uniformity in the grit.
Beside of that, and the feeling/feedback, I think I'll go synthetic for more typical western double beveled knife. Give much much more for the money.
I was first upset about this video, when I saw the short version and conclusion. Then I watched the full version here, and when I think about it I'm actually quite happy with what I see, and the things you say. Why was I upset when I saw it the first time? For multiple reasons, you walk into the experience sceptical about cutting speed, because natural stones are sometimes thought of as these magical stones that are significantly better then synthetics in all aspects, and that just leads to disappointment, especially on a stone like this. The "harder"but still relatively soft akamusa, is similar to our the same thing as a binsui. It's a very readily available and cheap stone that is not very fast cutting on it's own, you have one of the softer versions there, looks very nice to me, it's faster cutting then the harder ones.
The reason I'm happy with the video is when I got my binsui, I like many other was disappointed, but after having gotten aquatinted with it, it's likely my favourite stone.
I could ramble about this for a while, the main things I wanted to say was: a stone like this takes a little learning to get the most out of, this should really be used with slurry, you got your atomas they should do great for raising some before you begin the session. The main thing this does it's improve cut speed and feel.
The second thing is, a large part of the allure of using something like this is that the grain of the stones is not consistent, and that will result in a toothier edge, something your weight can't test. You can also combine slurry from different natural stones to get an even more refined yet still toothy edge on a stone like this. Therefore I was a little sad when you went on your strop immediately after sharpening, even more so with compound.
This is not the stone I reach for when I want to remove a lot of material, but I really like the edges on my stainless knives, and I don't feel like the speed is a problem unless the knife is very thick behind the edge
Also this stone does not represent all coarse jnat, it does not even represent all akamusas, they are all slightly different for better or worse
knife bros are some of the dimmest humans walking the earth.
I would like to see close ups of the bevel before and after the sharpening in your videos. Seeing the finish is also a factor in choosing stones I feel.
we have here in mexico many natural stones from soft coarse to very hard fine grit,have one black- blue with cobalt and is very very nice
the allure of a natural connection. I can dig that.
Question : Hi Ricky. I'm really found of your videos, even if I'm french and it's sometimes difficult for me to understand everything. So excuse me for my poor english. Nevertheless, I wondering if you have ever tried the new diamond line of Naniwa. I sharpen all my knives on Naniwa professionnal and Suehiro Cerax and Rika, but I'm very interested in this stones. TY for your answer.
I have this one and the red one. I felt they were cutting very slow even with the aus 8. But they worked very well with the knives that were made of softer steel like 5Cr. And these stones cost less than $50 each. Also, you can use them to thin the cladding iron of your knives. They left mild scratches and save your core steel.
They are nice but slow
Hi try the knife on food. I juse both syntetic and natural stones. And The edges done with my Hideriyama or takashima stone are mutch more agresive and feels alot more sharper and bites alot more than my knives sharpen by syntestic stones. Im also a knife sharp nerd and sharpen every Day.
""I'm sure it's similar to my brick" LMAO
Riky, these are actually good stones. They are not soaking stones. Splash and go only as they will fall apart if soaked. Yes, flatten with the atoma 400. This stone works well with nagura slurries and light touch when progressing to mejiro and koma for final polish.
Great video. Judging from the sound, it sure is a pretty interesting stone to work with.
If this is a "real natural" stone, like cut from a natural occuring rock, then I would go for a full soak. Like 1h+ in water or so. Since those real natural stones are made from ocean sediments, there is no over watering them. They can be left in water for days on end or even longer and won't come apart, as the natural bonding is way stronger then any synthetic one.
(At least from my knowledge)
You are correct about the soak times. You should change the water they are in every so often though.
I thought the Chosera 600 was your favourite (from a recent video)?
I picked up the 600 from that suggestion, hoping to end up with a 2-stone Setup
600 > 2000 > strop
I'd take that over the super muddy 800 and super hard and very fine somewhat slow 3k he normally shills. chosera 800 is very friable and muddy. the 400 and 600 are not
Hey Ricky, e really enjoy your videos, u clearly say what u see and feel when reviewing whetstones, did u ever consider making a review on the sigma select stones or the king hyper series, a lot of people like this stones.
What stones do you recommend to sharpen the Yaxell Mon with? (on a budget)
For a very inexpensive natural stone it's not bad but after trial and error I only buy natural stones for polishing now. Yes, good ones can be hundreds of dollars but polishing on natural stones turns into a hobby all to itself. Particularly for single bevel knives where polishing can really enhance a knife.
oh and price is 35 usd for a 8x3x2 inch large size
Question. Any experience /thoughts on the naniwa aotoshi 2k?
I have it and its a great stone, very big so it will last a very long time and leaves a great edge without forming a burr due to its softness. It is very easy to gouge the stone because of how soft it is so you have to have good angle control. Its a great finishing stone for stainless steel knives or a good stone for cleaning up the edge before moving on to high grit polishing stones.
Check out the channel mrknifefanatic for a good review of it. look for his videos that mention the green brick.
I have a love/hate relationship with that stone. It's a very soft stone that releases abrasive very quickly. It has quite a large range depending on how you work the slurry, it will polish well beyond its rated grit. I find that it will work pretty well for soft stainless steels and carbon steel but I usually don't get very good results with harder, more wear resistant stainless for some reason. IMO it's a better stepping stone than a stone I would want to finish on for most knives. It will leave a nice clean bevel ready for refinement or to take a micro bevel very well though..I'm just not usually satisfied with the edge quality it produces unless it's one of those softer stainless knives or a carbon steel knife. I think one of the reasons is all the mud it produces, I figure it's constantly impacting the edge a little bit and killing the sharpness of the edge to some extent. At the same time that same quality is what makes it good at a leaving a relatively clean bevel because the slurry also makes it a stone that doesn't turn much of a burr in my experience. The sharpness it's capable of producing is probably perfectly acceptable for most, I'm just a serious edge snob. I'm sure others have had different results and thoughts about it given the large differences between people's technique and what they are usually sharpening. Bottom line is many people love the stone which says something and it does have its uses; even for someone like me who like hard stones. It's also huge for a 2k, just be aware it's a very soft, muddy stone. Good thing to some and a negative to others. I'm a big fan of Shapton Ha No Kuromaku stones so it's a little hard for me to make friends with such a soft stone, especially for double bevel knives with small surface areas. Harder stones tend to produce more crisp, sharp edges IME but they are also less forgiving; at least for me. By the way the Shapton Pro/Ha No Kuromaku 2K is probably the best stone in the line if you want something harder, it's a totally different stone. It works well on everything I've tried and is capable of leaving a ridiculously sharp edge on many of my carbon knives. It cuts fast and leaves a really nice edge, I stop right there a lot of the time unless I want super ridiculous and bring it to the 8k or 12k.
I restore chisel and planes, where flatness of the back is important, what sharpening stone would you recommend for the initial major pass, I often need to remove a lot of material because they are dinged and have never been properly flattened.
Probably a diamond stone like the Atoma 140 if you're looking to hog off a lot of material, it will stay flat throughout sharpening which is important for chisels and planes.
Ceramic 220.
Great... very informative!
With your fancy scale thing, what's the lowest you can go?
i have a vg 10 tojiro . what stone is best for sharpening? thanks
Thanks! Full review on the debado stones please! They’re available in the western market now :) There’s a pro model with a base attached much like the original or japanese version of the choseras and around $30 cheaper!
Agreed. A review of the Debado's would be great. Can you tell me who is carrying them in the U.S?
Thanks.
@@Alistair_Spence Chef Knives To Go have them
I want to see your review on the Arkansas Stone's.
I would like to see you review the Arkansas stones you got last year thanks or the video's
you should do more videos with real natural stone ;) thanks
How can I sharpen steel s110v?.
Tengo un cuchillo de la marca kai de la serie shun para lonchear jamón algo muy tradicional en España de hecho es parte de mi trabajo ademas de mi pasión por que no nos enseñas a afilarlo
Ver los vídeos de “el rincondelafilado” y Arturo Lafuente sobre ese tema que son muy explicativos 🙏
Try the Arkansas stones. I know you have some.
Can European people participate in your give aways? For exemple, I'm French and I would be so interested !!! 😊
Oh and amazing channel, helps me relax so much, not sure why 😆
ASMR
sure sounds like a cutting stone.
打浆再磨效果会好很多
@Juan 石头是甜的
@Juan 天然砥石基本上都有一种甜味
😂😢😂😮🎉