Mercedes R129 Top Latch Removal

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  • Опубліковано 3 лис 2024

КОМЕНТАРІ • 23

  • @tedschroeders5289
    @tedschroeders5289 5 років тому +1

    excellent video. just descriptive enough without a lot of extra fluff. please keep 'em coming!

    • @FlashDriveFilms
      @FlashDriveFilms  5 років тому

      Thank you! I intentionally work to keep them short, and refuse to add filler just to get a 10 minute+ video. If I can show something in 4-5 mins I do. I respect that your time is valuable too.
      Alden

  • @thrasherx7576
    @thrasherx7576 3 роки тому +1

    Very good video! Im about to do a dive in and search but figured I would ask here....I am having a leaking issue. But the hardtop is still on it....its leaking from front along the windshield. What I believe to be both pumps..but I dont know how to get to them with the hardtop on. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    • @FlashDriveFilms
      @FlashDriveFilms  3 роки тому

      Certainly. Just behind the sun visors is a small plug in the header plastic. They hide small holes for access to the manual top release. You'll need a 6mm Allen/hex wrench and they rotate in opposite directions to release the top latches. Then, in the trunk on either side, under the hinges, are red-painted levers. Use a thin, ( I think 13? 10mm?There is a stamped version they provide in the trunk tool kit) wrench to flip them and that will release the back latches manually. Disconnect the electric pigtail in the drivers' door jamb for the heated rear window and have a friend help lift the hardtop off. The video shows the rest of the steps to remove the windshield header hydraulic rams.

  • @automan1223
    @automan1223 11 місяців тому +1

    If the front latches fail to unlock there is a manual method using a 6mm allen wrench thru a hole in the pillar at each latch.

    • @FlashDriveFilms
      @FlashDriveFilms  11 місяців тому

      Correct. The factory tool kit in the trunk includes a wrench with the 6mm hex-drive portion, and a Very thin open-end portion (13mm?) to release the metal tonneau cover as well.

  • @mandosandradios
    @mandosandradios 4 роки тому

    Excellent

  • @ElyMcfly
    @ElyMcfly 9 років тому

    Please note that on later models (97 and later), you'll need to remove the latch surround screws as mentioned in the video AND 3 additional screws per side (6 more screws)... 1.) The post cap screw. 2.) the screw on the roof rubber gasket about an inch below the post cap (don't worry....its really obvious), and 3.) the third is under the rubber itself. Although hidden, just lift the rubber. It is very easy to remove also.
    With those removed, now you can lift the cover piece out of the way...

    • @FlashDriveFilms
      @FlashDriveFilms  9 років тому

      Kite Yoda Hi! Glad you have enjoyed these! The version I have been making my videos of is my daily driver, a 1990 R129 so many of the later cars' improvements are not on mine. I know in the mid-90s many upgrades and changes came about, including improved top latches.(by 1995, the dashboard had been upgraded too, so my Dash Flash fix was also not needed.) As long as I keep driving the car, I'll keep hitting service intervals and repairs and I'll get out the video camera and invite everyone to look over my shoulder!
      Alden

    • @ivofreitag2057
      @ivofreitag2057 11 місяців тому

      Thanks for the video. 👍👏👏

  • @brynabryna
    @brynabryna 4 роки тому +1

    So until I fix it, don’t push the button- no more fluid leaking?

    • @FlashDriveFilms
      @FlashDriveFilms  4 роки тому +1

      It depends on where it is leaking from. If it is the two rams above the windshield, there may be some fluid that has leaked into the header rail and will continue to trickle down by gravity. But not pushing the switch will stop additional fluid from coming out of the system. Definitely check the reservoir tank in the trunk. It may be empty and you don't want to run the pump dry.
      Alden

    • @brynabryna
      @brynabryna 4 роки тому

      ​@@FlashDriveFilms It's leaking from the joint by the window. Nothing leaking from the rearview mirror. I'm going to have to look for how to find the reservoir in the trunk. It smells (only a little!)
      like fluid so I imagine it's not empty.

  • @BOAT-AND-POOL-LIFE
    @BOAT-AND-POOL-LIFE 5 років тому

    What size of clear tubing do you use to connect the metal lines together ?

    • @FlashDriveFilms
      @FlashDriveFilms  5 років тому +1

      Hi! The tubing I used was listed as 1/4" OD X .170 ID, made by a company called Watts. The tag on it said "Clear Vinyl, low pressure food/water, not for ice maker use" I believe I bought it at Lowes or Home Depot and I usually use it for things like windshield washer tubing.
      Hope that helps.
      Alden

    • @BOAT-AND-POOL-LIFE
      @BOAT-AND-POOL-LIFE 5 років тому

      @@FlashDriveFilms Mine just popped a leak dripping down.on the drivers side today so your video will come. in handy.

  • @arisgevorgyan2087
    @arisgevorgyan2087 5 років тому

    thanks for video and good idea

  • @mikelwil
    @mikelwil 10 років тому

    need this info on a w230

    • @FlashDriveFilms
      @FlashDriveFilms  10 років тому

      Hi! Sadly, I don't have this for W230, but, you might try 2 other channels: Mercedessource and fupabox. They have Mercedes service videos as well.
      Alden

  • @mercedestopseals5792
    @mercedestopseals5792 8 років тому

    r129 SL500 Sl320 u cup seal kits are available at www.mercedestopseals.com they are easy to rebuild with my instructions and now include a pin tool to disassemble the rear bow cylinders!
    I have them custom manufactured to my specifications and material to far outlast the OEM seals.

  • @klausstegmann5034
    @klausstegmann5034 5 років тому +1

    sl r 129 🤗🍂 ein danke schön, und ein lieben gruß,