Die-cast hoops are a different game altogether. Once the tension is off, I often start from very loose again, as it's the only way I can hear the tension of each lug. There's also the method of loosening a single lug to fingertight, then tightening it say a half-turn. Repeat this at every lug, maybe for two rounds. If the bearing edge is good, you might end up with the head in tune (same tension at every lug) without even listening in-between. Sort of a drum dial7tension watch method without a device.
Do you think die cast snare side hoops offer any advantage? My thinking is that they're pointless but I've never tried one. On a regular 3-flange hoop I can detune around the strainer to control buzz,
Thanks for the explanation. I´ve been experimenting for weeks with my snare in a very hight tunning for reggae, included some drumhead broken 😅. The tunning like I want and the mic position to sound good in a song mix drive me crazy, but I will apply your teachings!
Excellent information. Considering some comments here you might consider doing the same presentation with a steel hoop to show how inconsistent they are. Another suggestion is to show the effect of the effect the bearing edge has on your presentation. A lot of tuning information is available by listening to the overtones created at the different lugs.
Great video! One can actually see what you're doing. There are other videos from your channel where you only describe what you do, but here, it's a lot more interesting to see how you do the changes
Thank you for this simple but enlighting explanation! Die cast hoops are both a blessing And a curse! I have yamaha aluminium die casts and they can be very frustrating form time to time. The only good solution somtimes is just loose them all and start over again
Dude i ended up surrending to that Drum Dial lol (at least it allows me to mesure the tension), but i find more and more important to learn with ear training, because for us not professional drummers (i mostly like to play drums, but record and mix it in my small homestudio), sometimes you don't understand what you're doing worng (for instance you guys saved my snare tone - changing the reso and leaving it uncranked sounded awesome!). And my drumkit is simple, so i'm investing in a good tone from good skins and tunning, which you guys taught is most important to the tone than an expensive kit (i'm into the evans red hidraulic, emad on the kick, and dreaming about the calftone lol). Thanks for the lessons! Cheers from Brazil, stay awesome!
I enjoy your videos ALOT, but this one hits home alot, as I experiment all the time and with snare drums find them to be somewhat puzzling sometimes to get the snares close to perfection to how I prefer them for articulation and clean sounding, and not too buzzy or snarry...
You say that, with die-cast hoops, it's possible to have a backed out tension rod but not be able to hear it because of the hoop's rigidity. Yet, in your demonstration, a quarter turn difference was somewhat audible, and a half turn was very audible. How do those two things reconcile? I agree that a die-cast hoop can mask tuning inconsistencies when the differences aren't that large. But your demonstration clearly shows that, by a half turn (if not sooner), it's not masking anything anymore. If you mean that backed out tension rod can be inaudible if the adjacent tension rods are also over-tightened to compensate, then you should say so in your explanation.
You might have tuned down instead of up, loosening instea of tightening. Then the head might still have some hidden slack beyond the bearing edge that only comes out when you play it. Always tighten from below, loosen before if necessary.
Die-cast hoops are a different game altogether. Once the tension is off, I often start from very loose again, as it's the only way I can hear the tension of each lug. There's also the method of loosening a single lug to fingertight, then tightening it say a half-turn. Repeat this at every lug, maybe for two rounds. If the bearing edge is good, you might end up with the head in tune (same tension at every lug) without even listening in-between. Sort of a drum dial7tension watch method without a device.
Do you think die cast snare side hoops offer any advantage? My thinking is that they're pointless but I've never tried one. On a regular 3-flange hoop I can detune around the strainer to control buzz,
Thanks for the explanation. I´ve been experimenting for weeks with my snare in a very hight tunning for reggae, included some drumhead broken 😅. The tunning like I want and the mic position to sound good in a song mix drive me crazy, but I will apply your teachings!
Thank you! Love the explanation of three variables. Whack a mole reference is great! Fantastic! 10 out of 10!
Excellent information. Considering some comments here you might consider doing the same presentation with a steel hoop to show how inconsistent they are. Another suggestion is to show the effect of the effect the bearing edge has on your presentation. A lot of tuning information is available by listening to the overtones created at the different lugs.
Tuning whack-a-mole was spot on.
Great video! One can actually see what you're doing. There are other videos from your channel where you only describe what you do, but here, it's a lot more interesting to see how you do the changes
Thank you for this simple but enlighting explanation! Die cast hoops are both a blessing And a curse! I have yamaha aluminium die casts and they can be very frustrating form time to time. The only good solution somtimes is just loose them all and start over again
Dude i ended up surrending to that Drum Dial lol (at least it allows me to mesure the tension), but i find more and more important to learn with ear training, because for us not professional drummers (i mostly like to play drums, but record and mix it in my small homestudio), sometimes you don't understand what you're doing worng (for instance you guys saved my snare tone - changing the reso and leaving it uncranked sounded awesome!). And my drumkit is simple, so i'm investing in a good tone from good skins and tunning, which you guys taught is most important to the tone than an expensive kit (i'm into the evans red hidraulic, emad on the kick, and dreaming about the calftone lol). Thanks for the lessons! Cheers from Brazil, stay awesome!
I still want to know what you think about the zildjian 400 LE snare
I enjoy your videos ALOT, but this one hits home alot, as I experiment all the time and with snare drums find them to be somewhat puzzling sometimes to get the snares close to perfection to how I prefer them for articulation and clean sounding, and not too buzzy or snarry...
You say that, with die-cast hoops, it's possible to have a backed out tension rod but not be able to hear it because of the hoop's rigidity. Yet, in your demonstration, a quarter turn difference was somewhat audible, and a half turn was very audible. How do those two things reconcile? I agree that a die-cast hoop can mask tuning inconsistencies when the differences aren't that large. But your demonstration clearly shows that, by a half turn (if not sooner), it's not masking anything anymore. If you mean that backed out tension rod can be inaudible if the adjacent tension rods are also over-tightened to compensate, then you should say so in your explanation.
Starting from a new low pitch can't be further from the truth
Really resets the playing field
Tuning a string on a guitar can also effect the rest of the string as it puts new tention on the neck
Just when I get the tuning right, I smack it good for one song and it's all off tune again. Rim shots sound so nice tho.
Lug locks, my friend!
You might have tuned down instead of up, loosening instea of tightening. Then the head might still have some hidden slack beyond the bearing edge that only comes out when you play it. Always tighten from below, loosen before if necessary.
That's one advantage of 6-lug snares. I dislike 10 lugs on a snare for that reason. 8 is plenty.