Remove Broken Studs or Bolts With A Welder - Step by Step
Вставка
- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- In this video I will show you a technique using a welder to remove a broken bolt or stud. I am using a Harbor Freight wire feed welder. I will cover the basic settings on the welder to achieve solid welds. I used this technique removing broken studs from my Dodge Ram with the Hemi engine.
This method you use your welder to build up a slag pile, once the pile is high enough you take your nut and place it over the pile and then take your welder and weld the nut to the slag pile. Once it cools down you can then use a socket to unscrew the broken exhaust manifold bolt. Be sure to check out my other videos where you can see what the broken bolts look like.
Tools you will need
-Wire Feed Welder
-Broken Stud or Bolt :)
-Masking Tape
-Nut with an interior diameter about the same size as the broken stud or bolt.
Have owned and operated my auto repair shop for 4 years now. Always had issuses getting studs out of heads with wedler and never was sure why. This guy and his harbor freight welder taught me why! Beleive main thing is my wire feed has always been too high. Cant wait til the next one comes in!
Freakin awesome! Took me a ton of trial and error.
Same here. This video helped me successfully get two broken bolts out of my transmission. Almost no wire speed, high on the voltage and hold the trigger for 2-3 seconds were the three tips I needed for success.
Oh my goodness thank you so much for making this video! I watched others about using the welder to remove the bolts, and was growing extremely frustrated when attempting to do this myself. I have absolutely no welding experience and minimal mechanical experience. After watching this and following your steps I was able to get the bolts out with relative ease! Thanks so much!!
Thats amazing! Feels awesome when it actually works...nice work!
Idk why...everytime I go to weld onto a broken stud inside aluminum. It takes me 200 times because it never sticks good to the metal..
Watched both videos before attempting the drivers side on my 2017 Ram - super helpful - used the exact same HF welder - thanks for posting!
I keep watching this as I am changing the exhaust manifold on my dodge. I have one last broken bolt to take out. I have an amazon flux core welder with a lot more variations in settings so it is a challenge to translate this to mine, but I will keep at it. No success getting good weld attachment to the bolt yet.
Eventually, I got the bolt out. I ended up using the stick welding setting on my welder and 7014 sticks. That gave me enough penetration to get a weld that was strong enough to get the bolt moving. After that, the flux-core was more than enough even though I broke off the welds twice, the third time I got it out all the way.
Thanks for the video, glad to find it because I just picked up a Harbor Freight welder today to see if I can get three broken studs out of my Dodge Dakota.
Good luck! Its super frustrating when you do your first one. I recommend getting a bolt from the autoparts store and practice on it first.
@@MechanicLife I got the three broken studs out! I had trouble getting a nut to stick but I was able to build up the bolt about 1/2" so I could put my Channel-lock pliers on them so I could get them turned.Your video gave me the confidence to try this rather than taking the truck to the shop for an expensive repair.
Freakin cool!! Pretty awesome you just went and bought a welder and tried it. That repair is an intimidating one.
@@ScampCamper I can't get the bot to stick without breaking when I go to turn it, any tips? Slag pile keeps breaking
@@Executnr I used penetrating oil and allowed that to soak in for a long time. Once I built up a bead with the welder I was able to use my channel lock pliers to grab it, and then loosen just a little counterclockwise, and then go back a little clockwise, and then a little more counterclockwise, and then clockwise, going back and forth a little each time. On one of the bolts I had to add weld beads about three times as each one broke off while twisting.
OH wow this was a life saver! I wish i watched this before wasting a ton of cash on the various extraction tools.
Glad it was helpful
Everyone forgets that a cleaner surface on both parts makes the weld stronger. Dont forget to clean the bolt really well with a wire brush or emory cloth.
Good call.
Great video Luke. I have the same welder and have wanted to learn this technique. Thanks for sharing!!
You bet!!!!
A man of culture welding in slides!
I went to change out my camshaft positioner sensor, and the 8 mm Bolt had already been damaged. I tried extractor sets and was about to remove the fan and shroud which needs 2 specialized tools (surprise). So even though it horizontal and like totally no room to work, I'm going to try this..wish me luck. Good Video!
You got this!!!
Good luck
Did it work!?
How did you ground the bolt when I was insulated in the aluminum block
any big bolt on subframe
Will be attempting this process next weekend, have not opened anything up yet but i know there is 2 broken studs on each side. MY biggest concern was if the stud was broken off in the head but after watching numerous videos it seems like regardless your weld wont stick to the head. will give an uddate once attempted
Exactly. The weld wont stick for sure. I put up to other videos on my truck as well. On one sid eI had a stud broken off at the block. The other was sticking out about a 1/4" which was great because I could remove it with vice grips. Recommendation is start on the passenger side first. It is 10x easier to get at the manifold. The drivers side is much more intense.
I tried it this morning but the nut came off. I did it after seeing this technique in another video, later searching for this using a HF welder I found your video. I have the same HF welder as you but this morning I did not have my wire feed at 1.5 like you, and I need to make sure the slag gets bonded to the bolt end first. I think it was at 5. Gonna go back and retry. BTW, your video is very well done.
Good Luck! I spun it off a fem time at first. When I finally built up a slag pile big enough I then welded the bolt on and it worked like a charm!
This is a helpful video and I tried your suggestions several times. I am having trouble getting a good weld unfortunately. I have a Forney 125FC welder which is an AC welder. It creates a lot of splatter and I think I am not able to get enough heat for a good weld. Is the welder you use a DC welder, is that what my problem is I wonder?
Best video ever
Where did you hook your ground clamp when welding on the bolt in the head?
Directly to the block
hi. please tell me what type of welding wire you have used it? was it a mild steel wire, hardweld wire or something else?
0.030 FLux Core Wire Mild
When you're welding the nut to the stud are you moving the welding gun?
I hold it in place to heat up the bolt surface so the weld will mate and then move it is tiny circles to fill up the hole between the bold and nut.
What wire did you used
Where did you place your ground when the bolt was in the block, have the same problem with my dodge and would like to replace the bolts to get rid of the tick
I would try and clamp vice grips on the block next to where you're welding. Attach the ground on the vice grips and have at it!
I get it welded on but when I go to turn the Bolt it breaks?
Make sure to hold your weld a little longer so it heats up and melts...half a second to a second. People have a tendency to do it really quick so the weld is really weak.
This may be worth buying a welder... but my bolts are really rusted so I’m wondering if the weld will hold. If they’re rusted to hell will this work?
Yes. Just make sure you soak the bolts with penetrating oil a few times and leave overnight. I would get as much rust off the surface your welding too. (grinder, or sandpaper, even wire brush the area.
thankful for the video, but i really don't think you tapped that weld for "2 or 3 seconds" as you stated verbally
Up here in Canada my local private shop wants 5 hours labor per side, so 550 bucks and I only have 1 single broken bolt on the drivers side. Looks like I'll be ordering a welder. Thanks for the tip, it doesn't look like too terrible a job. There is more, the dealer wanted 723 for manifold, gasket, hardware and heat shield (and back ordered). Is this what they call the northern tax? It's rugged up here lol. Have a Dorman setup ordered for 250.
Sounds about right for the cost from dealer. Good luck on the repair!
@@MechanicLife I have a muffler shop down to 250. Getting closer!
I am using a stick welder on a broken stud below the surface of an aluminum block. What electrode should I use? 6013?
I have had luck with 6013 and 6011. Always use the wire feed though now.
@@MechanicLife Thanks for the reply. I''m going to try the 6013 tonight. Fingers crossed!
Let me know how she goes! Good luck
Just found your great vid after failing to get a weld to stick to the broken bolt this afternoon and not knowing why. Filled the nut up nice with weld both times but wouldn't stick to the stud. I'll be building a slag pile next. Thanks so much for the tip
You bet!
Problem is u can’t do it with a 110 machine or at least mine Eastwood 135
And to think k I was gonna pay a shop to have it done and take the actual heads off cause they said they need to to be able to drill it out without drilling into the block...
Sounds like a lot of unnecessary work;)
Bro u was in some chancletas doin this🤣🤣so gangsta!
How would you do that if upside down under a car frame
I’ve got to do this on a freezer compressor. Failure will mean a significant financial loss like ruining an engine. Can you recommend some tips? I believe it’s a blind hole. The thread is 5/16”, I’m assuming the bolt thread is hardened steel and the body of the compressor is steel or aluminum. What size nut would I need, 1 size down? I’ve seen people recommend a washer first then build a nut on top. I’m also assuming that providing a close ground will eliminate the risk of the compressor windings from melting. I do have a tap and die, extractors etc. This seems like a better first try as once the extractor breaks it’s game over.
I recommend a nut the same size at the threads.
It's does work I stripped a caliper bolt now to remove I need to weld nut the only issue on the caliper the bolt are on the back side so you don't have enough room like in the video take.little more of pacienc3.....
Can you work the slag pile inside of the stud using flush or protruding? I think you said that but want to make sure it’s not going to cause issues with the threading inside. Pulling stud out of engine block.
How do you remove the nut from the broken bolt after it has been welded?
you don't, just chuck it in the garbage
Have to say your welds look amazing compared to mine lol
I got lucky for sure
How are you grounding to be able to weld ,I have same welder and it wont seem to start, when I touch the bolt??
I am grounding directly to the Vise. Whats your vise made out of?
@@MechanicLife figured it out, thanks for replying though.
doesn't matter what I do, it seems the weld does not penetrate and the nut spun off.
I’m a try ur setting since I got the harbor freight but I learned some steps I didn’t use ima. Try this and see if my exhaust studs come out ty
What polarity works best for bolt removal?
So I have a bolt that holds a winch that the head was broken off … it’s not sitting vertical like this it’s sitting horizontal ..do I just pool it up from the bottom to top ?
You can do that as well yes.
What size wire did u use 0.030 or 0.035
You explain things REALLY well. Thank you for making this video.
You bet!
Thanks for this... just about to attempt to remove a rounded torx bolt using this method and your details were really useful 👍
Great video
I've been trying this but the rusty bolt keeps snapping. Where am I going wrong?
I would coat the heck out of it for thread penetrating oil and let it sit for a day or two and then try again. You an also try with a torch to heat it up first and then let it cool off before you weld.
So the weld will not stick to the threads in the block?
The weld will not trash the thread in aluminium.
Always let the stud cool completely before putting a spanner on it.
Sometimes takes a few goes.
I do slightly different.
Just hold the nut down with the nozzle and weld in one go. Doesn't matter if the nut starts to deform.
I'm going to go try this technique now on a bolt that broke off in a lower control arm. It's just a stud since the head broke off and I cut the other side. The stud is still stuck in the metal bushing sleeve. Should be an easy out if the weld holds.
On my first attempt, the nut did not bond to the stud. Then I ran out of wire right when I went to attempt the second slag pile. What do you recommend for the wire?
You probably didnt heat up the pool enough to bond it. Make sure you clean the area really well and run your lead about another second longer.
@@MechanicLife got it
motivation my friend
Hi your video is very informative, I've got a question. What type of welder did you use? Is it Arc welder ? Will this welder works on any type of broken bolt? like Etorx bolt or nut? Thanks in advance
I was using a wire feed bought from Harbor Freight.
Flux
I have almost the same setup but my weld keeps breaking. The nut just turns right off the bolt and doesn't even require much force for it to do that. I feel like I'm following the steps exactly. This is a manifold stud that is sticking out maybe a half inch from the head. It's like the nut just isn't fusing to the bolt. It's filling up the nut, but seems to break at the bottom. Any ideas what I could be doing better?
get your weld hotter initially. If you are just doing enough to tack it it will break each time.
Jeff S I am in the same boat, with the stud buried in the head it may be better to first preheat with a map torch, get it all nice an hot then proceed to build up the slag heap
@@MechanicLife what do you mean by heat it up? how do you do with the welder? any specific settings?
How that works with aluminum block ? Is it safe? Does it damage the aluminum threads in the block where the Stud/bolt is broken while building up to the nut? Thank you!!
I haven't had any issues with it. I have a video up on how to get them out of a dodge which has the aluminum block.
@@montanamade1114 Where is your video? Can’t seem to find it.. I’m trying on a Dodge aluminum head now too - can you clamp the ground to the aluminum head?
ua-cam.com/video/iE2OGDTqMAU/v-deo.html
Minute 11:14
Great video man 🤟
Appreciate it!
Are there inexpensive welder kits just for this type of welding?
The welder was just over $100 from Harbor Freight
you saved me, I am eternally grateful!
You bet!!!
Very useful video. Wouldn't it make it even more effective if you *don't* wait for the nut to cool before trying to extract the stud? That way it's still got all that heat in it from the weld, just as if you'd heated it up with an oxy-acetylene torch (or similar) as people so often do.
Wrong way heat expands the stud making it more difficult to remove along with weld also being softer. The washer and nut method works really well I use this daily with great results
@@damiengibson2630 Ah got ya. Cheers
Also have a ram with the same problem. I'm worried about going this route because the engine block is aluminium. Doesn't aluminium have a low melting point ?
I have done this on 4 different rams now without issue. Its surprisingly way easier to do than you think it is. Just take your time and let your slag piles cure each time. They hardest part is welding inverted. I have yet to melt any part of the block performing this method and one of my welds was as sloppy as you could make it;)
@@montanamade1114
I get nervous welding so close to the block.. I made a couple small divits on the side wall of the beggining of the hole. Hopefully it doesn't screw with the exhaust out
Get er! :) Once you get enough to hook up a nut on it and back the stud out You'll be surprised how little you took out if any. Super nerve wracking though when its your first time doing it. Are you able to build up slag on the stud?
@@montanamade1114 I can build up a little nub and that's about it.. Maybe its because I'm using fluxcore ? Maybe I have to use mig.. What are you using ?
Thanks for the replys BTW
Hindi bhasha me bhejo bahi ji video ok
I need to do the same thing. Is there any danger of welding the bold or nut to the block? I don't know a lot about welding.
No, you are good.
@@MechanicLife Why is that? Because the bolt is steel and the block aluminum?
Yep. You are correct.
where u attach or ground at there and was ur ground + or -?