I am currently doing the same thing to our camper. This has been super helpful. Thank you!You mentioned that you saw a video about how to take the bed apart. Could you please drop a link to that video?
Hi Wendy! There are two other videos regarding this build-out. All the way to skinning the final step with aluminium sheet. Remember, if you go with aluminium, it really depends on the climate you take your camper to. We are in Florida, so it works well being in wet/hot temperatures all the time. We found that on nights that reach 32 degrees, you will definitely need mattress barriers/spacers. From here you can opt to place luan board or even thin PVC bathroom wall board. I designed ours so it would never have to be rebuilt ever again. Here is the link to step two: ua-cam.com/video/0sC9WK3b0gQ/v-deo.html
Our trailer is slightly different and we so not have the support on the tongue like you do, but instead is supported by diagonal wires from the top. We need to fix the bunk love your option however I am curious about support where you have the pink insulation what is preventing you from putting your putting you knee through the aluminum?
Great videos: “JUST BUILD IT AND GO CAMPING.” Thanks for the information and inspiration. Did you glue the PVC and foam board in place, or just lay them on the cavity before screwing down the aluminum?
@ Alan Hezekiah, Did you glue the PVC and foam board in place, or just lay them on the cavity before screwing down the aluminum? Answer: Just laid them in. Reasoning: The PVC board does not glue well and my worry was the sun/heat and the possibility of some areas staying glued and some areas separating giving that bubbly delaminating look. Also, the foam reacted (melted) when I applied Loctites version of contact cement. Main goal was to be able to pull it apart and I guess monitor the interior in the future, the way it is built now, there is no way for rot to take place.
How did it hold up when laying on it? I am wondering about the load on the aluminum frame without the strength of the plywood/foam sandwich adhered to the outer skin.
@@frankfitzgerald4536 Hey Frank, the center metal beam supports the main weight along with the outer square metal frame work. You can stand two full grown ups on this without any flex at all. As an engineer, I over build everything. No flex at all. Original plan was to use Diamond Plate, over kill on my opinion. This is lighter than stock plus no chance of any rot.
what would you do if your fiber glass is delaminated from the metal frame before putting in all that new stuff. i have a bubble on the fiber glass exterior and edges are coming out of the metal channel.
Hi Raheeli, here in Florida the sun is wicked brutal. So the fiberglass is a little wavy after the repair. All I can say is you won't own your rig 100 years from now. So, deal with the blemishes, and don't work hard on making it perfect. GO CAMP!! GO LIVE!!
But, you could park near a wall, use a piece of wood with a 2x4 as a wedge, remove the corner molding (its work now) and use an industrial-grade glue, or 3M 5200. Just remember, 5200 is some bad to-the-bone stuff! It won't ever come off.
Holy cowzone! 17 actual likes. Thanks everyone! Stone
I am currently doing the same thing to our camper. This has been super helpful. Thank you!You mentioned that you saw a video about how to take the bed apart. Could you please drop a link to that video?
Do you have the video of taking out the very top of the bed pieces
Hi Wendy! There are two other videos regarding this build-out. All the way to skinning the final step with aluminium sheet. Remember, if you go with aluminium, it really depends on the climate you take your camper to. We are in Florida, so it works well being in wet/hot temperatures all the time. We found that on nights that reach 32 degrees, you will definitely need mattress barriers/spacers. From here you can opt to place luan board or even thin PVC bathroom wall board.
I designed ours so it would never have to be rebuilt ever again.
Here is the link to step two: ua-cam.com/video/0sC9WK3b0gQ/v-deo.html
Our trailer is slightly different and we so not have the support on the tongue like you do, but instead is supported by diagonal wires from the top. We need to fix the bunk love your option however I am curious about support where you have the pink insulation what is preventing you from putting your putting you knee through the aluminum?
Great videos: “JUST BUILD IT AND GO CAMPING.” Thanks for the information and inspiration. Did you glue the PVC and foam board in place, or just lay them on the cavity before screwing down the aluminum?
@ Alan Hezekiah, Did you glue the PVC and foam board in place, or just lay them on the cavity before screwing down the aluminum?
Answer:
Just laid them in. Reasoning: The PVC board does not glue well and my worry was the sun/heat and the possibility of some areas staying glued and some areas separating giving that bubbly delaminating look. Also, the foam reacted (melted) when I applied Loctites version of contact cement. Main goal was to be able to pull it apart and I guess monitor the interior in the future, the way it is built now, there is no way for rot to take place.
How did it hold up when laying on it? I am wondering about the load on the aluminum frame without the strength of the plywood/foam sandwich adhered to the outer skin.
@@frankfitzgerald4536 Hey Frank, the center metal beam supports the main weight along with the outer square metal frame work. You can stand two full grown ups on this without any flex at all. As an engineer, I over build everything. No flex at all. Original plan was to use Diamond Plate, over kill on my opinion. This is lighter than stock plus no chance of any rot.
what would you do if your fiber glass is delaminated from the metal frame before putting in all that new stuff.
i have a bubble on the fiber glass exterior and edges are coming out of the metal channel.
Hi Raheeli, here in Florida the sun is wicked brutal. So the fiberglass is a little wavy after the repair. All I can say is you won't own your rig 100 years from now. So, deal with the blemishes, and don't work hard on making it perfect. GO CAMP!! GO LIVE!!
But, you could park near a wall, use a piece of wood with a 2x4 as a wedge, remove the corner molding (its work now) and use an industrial-grade glue, or 3M 5200. Just remember, 5200 is some bad to-the-bone stuff! It won't ever come off.