Thank you so much for the instruction. Is there no way to remove the entire cylinder from the axel? I have a 5520, and had planed to remove the cylinder and take it to a cylinder rebuilding shop. After watching your video it looks like the bolts I had assumed held the entire cylinder in place just hold the cylinder cap on. Again, this instruction is so valuable, thank you!
Once you remove the cap screws you can tap the entire cylinder assembly out using a brass drift and a hammer. Problem is its often stuck to the differential case and you can damage it.
Great video, the tip of using the wrench to break the ball joints was spot on! I used that tip with it on the tractor and left the ball joints on the wheel hubs worked out great. Thanks to your video replaced all seals in less than two hours. Tractor is a 5410. Will be looking for more great videos. Thanks again from Alabama.
Your tip on the tie rod removal was a Godsend! I have a 5400 JD, and it looks a lot like your cylinder setup. The wrench setup on removing the second tie rod was GENIUS! I worked for 2+ days trying to get it off, and your tip got it broke loose in less than 30 minutes (more like 10-15 minutes). The only thing I did different was the cylinder kept popping up, so I used a ratchet tie down strap to hold it down.....and....I didn't have a washer big enough to put on the first tie rod, so I used the box end of a box wrench. I commend you on putting this out there. The tie rod removal part is what always gives guys problems. This video helped me get it off so fast. When the second tie rod finally broke loose, it was like a miracle from God just happened. I was so dang happy. (I thought I was going to run out of beer getting the tie rod off) Someone needs to manufacture a cylinder with REAL ends on it, instead of those skinny little ends that aren't thick enough to put a wrench on. Obviously the person who designed that skinny little flange on the end has NEVER worked on a tractor before. It is about 1/2 the thickness of every wrench end out there. I don't think they even make a wrench that skinny. Anyway, THANK YOU sooooooo much for this tip. It was a time saver for sure. This video should be at the top of the list in the tractors section. Every guy who works on tractors should have this video in their saved list and subscribe to your channel.
that idea on removing the other side is genius!! I fought with one of those for days and finally had to take it to a hydraulic repair place to get it off. won't happen again!! thank you!!!
Thank you for showing how to take off that tie rod end. It took a full day to try to remove it but with your help it was off in less than a minute. I appreciate the advice.
Like everyone else said, thank you for your advice. Been wrenching for a long time and I've never had such trouble doing this repair. I think someone used the word, "Godsend". This information is nothing short I assure you
Thank you for sharing your mechanical knowledge.. now I will be able to repair the hydraulic cylinder of my John Deere 5400 tractor. 😁😁😁😁After 25 years of use it began to leak oil through the seals.. Greetings from Argentina🙂🙂🙂
Have the same issue with my 5400 MFWD. Really appreciate you putting together this video. Seeing your video, I can definitely tackle this project. Many thanks!!
One trick is using a soda can that you have cut the ends off and slit down the middle top to bottom. Cut to size so the ends do not overlap when you wrap it around the piston and the o rings. Use it as a slip guide for the O Rings so they slide right in the case. Make sure no burs or ridges can cut the o rings. Push the piston in easily without and damage.
You may not remember the guy who gave you the tip about screwing the swivel back on the piston rod adding a thick washer, but I am sure glad you shared that nice little tip. Personally, I think the piston rod should have a good surface that would avoid you having to do that, but since it doesn't, yours and his tip worked perfectly. Thank you for that! I was a little jealous on how easy you knocked the other swivel off because I spent at least two hours trying to break either one of them free. My wife and I ended up bracing a wrench on one side while using a floor jack to turn a wrench on the other side. (This was actually her idea since I spent a good while heating and trying to break one loose with a sledge on the wrench.) Her method worked like a charm. (Smart gal) Again, thank you for sharing that info!!
Thank You SO much for the video! I have a 5103 (2wd) with this problem. I have beat on the ends and they did not come loose. I needed to know if they were right hand or left hand threads. You answered this question out of the box. I was also hoping they were a standard seal and could avoid the JD pricing assault. One thing I noted is that your old seals are green as are mine. The replacements are yellow. I wonder if they updated the material and we will not have to do this again. Thanks!
Thanks for the video. It looks like I've got quite a task ahead of me. I've got a couple questions if you don't mind. At 10:17 you mention the seals shrinking overnight. What causes them to shrink? Is it just the exposure to air? Also, once you've got it all done, what is the procedure for getting the fluid back in the system? My wife and I recently purchased a 5203 from her Grandma and I haven't had a whole lot of time to figure out where everything is and how it all works.
We have a 5520 tractor, but it doesn't have the lever for ups and downs. This tractor gives us the 540 at 2400 revolutions. How can I change to 1700 and get 540 the pto
It depends on the transmission type. If your tractor (on the left behind the main PTO lever) has a small lever labelled "540E" and "540," move that lever to 540E and set your engine RPMs at 1700. If you don't have the 540E capable transmission there's no way to retrofit.
Thank you so much for the instruction. Is there no way to remove the entire cylinder from the axel? I have a 5520, and had planed to remove the cylinder and take it to a cylinder rebuilding shop. After watching your video it looks like the bolts I had assumed held the entire cylinder in place just hold the cylinder cap on. Again, this instruction is so valuable, thank you!
Once you remove the cap screws you can tap the entire cylinder assembly out using a brass drift and a hammer. Problem is its often stuck to the differential case and you can damage it.
@@TheFritz423 Yes sir, many thanks!🙏
Great video, the tip of using the wrench to break the ball joints was spot on! I used that tip with it on the tractor and left the ball joints on the wheel hubs worked out great. Thanks to your video replaced all seals in less than two hours. Tractor is a 5410. Will be looking for more great videos. Thanks again from Alabama.
Your tip on the tie rod removal was a Godsend! I have a 5400 JD, and it looks a lot like your cylinder setup. The wrench setup on removing the second tie rod was GENIUS!
I worked for 2+ days trying to get it off, and your tip got it broke loose in less than 30 minutes (more like 10-15 minutes). The only thing I did different was the cylinder kept popping up, so I used a ratchet tie down strap to hold it down.....and....I didn't have a washer big enough to put on the first tie rod, so I used the box end of a box wrench.
I commend you on putting this out there. The tie rod removal part is what always gives guys problems. This video helped me get it off so fast. When the second tie rod finally broke loose, it was like a miracle from God just happened. I was so dang happy. (I thought I was going to run out of beer getting the tie rod off)
Someone needs to manufacture a cylinder with REAL ends on it, instead of those skinny little ends that aren't thick enough to put a wrench on. Obviously the person who designed that skinny little flange on the end has NEVER worked on a tractor before. It is about 1/2 the thickness of every wrench end out there. I don't think they even make a wrench that skinny.
Anyway, THANK YOU sooooooo much for this tip. It was a time saver for sure. This video should be at the top of the list in the tractors section. Every guy who works on tractors should have this video in their saved list and subscribe to your channel.
that idea on removing the other side is genius!! I fought with one of those for days and finally had to take it to a hydraulic repair place to get it off. won't happen again!! thank you!!!
Thank you for showing how to take off that tie rod end. It took a full day to try to remove it but with your help it was off in less than a minute. I appreciate the advice.
Like everyone else said, thank you for your advice. Been wrenching for a long time and I've never had such trouble doing this repair. I think someone used the word, "Godsend". This information is nothing short I assure you
Thanks. Great idea on using the washer and a wrench to get the second rod off.
Each step explained well
Thank you for sharing your mechanical knowledge.. now I will be able to repair the hydraulic cylinder of my John Deere 5400 tractor. 😁😁😁😁After 25 years of use it began to leak oil through the seals.. Greetings from Argentina🙂🙂🙂
Thanks for your video!! I used it to rebuild my 5205 steering cylinder last week. Much appreciated!!
Lord you have just saved me and my job many days and much money
Good job on the rebuild. This video will help others that have leaks on their John Deere power steering cylinder.
Have the same issue with my 5400 MFWD. Really appreciate you putting together this video. Seeing your video, I can definitely tackle this project. Many thanks!!
Good luck!
One trick is using a soda can that you have cut the ends off and slit down the middle top to bottom. Cut to size so the ends do not overlap when you wrap it around the piston and the o rings. Use it as a slip guide for the O Rings so they slide right in the case. Make sure no burs or ridges can cut the o rings. Push the piston in easily without and damage.
Thank you for sharing the trick with the washer. I was just about to weld a piece of flat across the other end of the shaft.
You may not remember the guy who gave you the tip about screwing the swivel back on the piston rod adding a thick washer, but I am sure glad you shared that nice little tip. Personally, I think the piston rod should have a good surface that would avoid you having to do that, but since it doesn't, yours and his tip worked perfectly. Thank you for that! I was a little jealous on how easy you knocked the other swivel off because I spent at least two hours trying to break either one of them free. My wife and I ended up bracing a wrench on one side while using a floor jack to turn a wrench on the other side. (This was actually her idea since I spent a good while heating and trying to break one loose with a sledge on the wrench.) Her method worked like a charm. (Smart gal)
Again, thank you for sharing that info!!
One good thing about UA-cam, you benefit from everyone else's painful experiences!
Great video. I’m fixing to rebuild mine today
Thank You SO much for the video! I have a 5103 (2wd) with this problem. I have beat on the ends and they did not come loose. I needed to know if they were right hand or left hand threads. You answered this question out of the box. I was also hoping they were a standard seal and could avoid the JD pricing assault. One thing I noted is that your old seals are green as are mine. The replacements are yellow. I wonder if they updated the material and we will not have to do this again. Thanks!
Thanks for the video Pole Man. Airborne......
All the way!
Thanks for the video. I have a 5500 and it appears to be identical.
THANK YOU SIR!!!!! Goodness, this saved me from breaking a lot of sh•*…
Thanks for the video. It looks like I've got quite a task ahead of me.
I've got a couple questions if you don't mind.
At 10:17 you mention the seals shrinking overnight. What causes them to shrink? Is it just the exposure to air?
Also, once you've got it all done, what is the procedure for getting the fluid back in the system?
My wife and I recently purchased a 5203 from her Grandma and I haven't had a whole lot of time to figure out where everything is and how it all works.
Did your kit maybe come with an extra O-ring maybe to fit a different model
whats the part number for that kit?
This is identical to how you would do a 5310 also
We have a 5520 tractor, but it doesn't have the lever for ups and downs. This tractor gives us the 540 at 2400 revolutions. How can I change to 1700 and get 540 the pto
It depends on the transmission type. If your tractor (on the left behind the main PTO lever) has a small lever labelled "540E" and "540," move that lever to 540E and set your engine RPMs at 1700. If you don't have the 540E capable transmission there's no way to retrofit.
@@TheFritz423 good answer thank you very much!
Hey where did you get your seal kit from?
EDIT: Holy smokes. John Deere is charging $180 for the one I need! Item number RE45894. That's criminal.
It is criminal and I got them from the criminals.
Thanks, nice. I would not trust a tractor jack…ever.
I’m sick motion sickness
Chonch sounalika 90