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Did you have the valves in heads ported bigger?

Good to see you again and congratulations for your upcoming retirement. Can't wait to see what you can do working on that puppy full time once you get caught up with your honey do list.😁😎👍

Jeff absolutely a awesome video I'm glad to see you back in the shop and getting the rear done for the Nova also happy retirement God bless brother.. 😎❤🙏🇱🇷✌

I just learned too.

👍 outstanding!!

When I first got out of the Army in 95 I had 76 Nova, Sold it to my cousin 4 months later when I went back in, Retired in 2011 and moved out here to the Pinal Valley Arizona (in between Phoenix and Tucson) and started looking for a project car and while talking to my neighbor and he told me that his cousin was selling his aunts 75 Nova. It's nothing special, It's a base Nova, 250 Inline six with the 3 Automatic Turbo-Hydramatic Trans but at this point in my life I'm not looking for 1000 HP or a Torque Monster I just want something to drive and have fun with and being an original Arizona Car there is zero rust although I'm going to repaint it and build a Restomod of sorts, I'm going to put one of the new LS V6 engines in it, I can get one for 4k from my local GM Dealership and now a days it would cost me that much to rebuild the 250 and I can find a 4 speed auto trans from a junkyard for it, I'm going to change the color to Black Rose, That's the Deep Dark Purple that GM used on the 4th Gene Camaros/Firebirds, S10's, Berettas and Corvettes in the late 80's and early 90's, The interior is decent shape although the dash board is cracked in several places and needs recovered but it's already Biege so I won't change that at all, I'll just need have to fix and recover the dash, I'm also on the look out for cheap buckets.

Local speed shop quoted 380 for hot tank haha.

No offense, but aren't you a little too old to be getting into the engines? I don't know. Maybe it's just me but as a kid I was always messing around in my buddy's machine shop messing with a mel and a lathe at the age of 11. Maybe I'm lucky but I feel like most people should have a pretty extensive knowledge of engines at least guys anyways. Is there a reason why you're a light bloomer?

Well, it’s been four years since you posted this video so you can add about 25% to what it cost you. Nice job thanks for the video!

You over paid😂 like by a lot. But your old as dirt so you cant do the cleaning and machining yourself. You need to make friends with people who do transmissions. They have machines that can clean very well. Buddy didn't change me a dime. Its about networking and making friends that will help you along the way. Spent 700 on my 383. My machined and honed the engine myself as well as rebuilding the carbs. Im pushing 510 horse power naturally aspirated.

What does it cost? Depends on what you put into it!! Anywhere from $800 to $80,000!!! There's your answer!

Say friend, by the way, can you tell me the function of that cannister with 2 tubes attached to it, behind the left headlamp?

Looks like a great build, hope it makes lots of power. However, what possessed you to spend $1500 on Vortec heads? You could have had a great set of aluminum heads that would make more power for less. But to each his own.

Nice!! This is what it really costs!! Maybe some cheap mail order stuff is less but it will not have the quality of machining, docs and attention to detail yours does. Its worth it in the long run! Id run 4.11 700r and a good 2800-3000 lock up converter it will be perfect

Hope you get it all installed and lets see the finished car.. 👍🏻

These are great videos mate. I think you've actually put me off doing it myself though haha. I only say that because I don't wanna invest a lot of cash and stuff it up. I might get a 383 short block and work up from there for my first build

That is some pricey machine work ! Probably good work tho. The last block I had bored decked cleaned freeze plugs and cam bearings was 350$. That was about a year ago

Where are you finding those $900 383 stroker blocks?

Glad to see it coming together can't wait to see the Nova run so be careful welding steel to cast you could end up with cracks awesome jobs. God bless brother. PS if you want Graphics done on the Nova I'll do it for you or I can cut it out of paint mask on a large vinyl cutter spray the graphics on zero cost like to donate something to the car when you're ready God bless brother

Yes as mentioned install a drain plug in the cover. They sell transmission pan weld in or bolt in drain plugs that should work in the cover? Also, great job fixturing that rear to weld the ends on! Should call you Wile E. Coyote, super genius for how you did that. Now if you do a couple of those conversions for a couple people you can recover the $ for the fixture and the rear you bought. Or sell the fixture for twice the cost of materials because your time is worth something. Then use the profit to make another to sell. When you sell that one make 2 to sell, if those sell right away make another 2 and pocket the extra $. There should be somewhere local to buy the steel from to cut down costs? There are several places within 50 miles from me, look around maybe......?

The drain plug should be on the back of the rear cover. also make sure the rear is vented

When your TIG welding turn up the pulse more and I recommend you getting a Pyrodex cup your tungsten from the tip of the point back to the bottom of your cup the stick out should be no longer than the width of your cup Pyrodex cup you will also be able to see better for you to do your TIG welding I recommend getting a wider Pyrodex cup not too wide because then you will lose your shielding gas if you have any questions just send me a message. God bless brother. PS about the stick out. TIG torch if your cup size is 1/2 inch your stick out would be 1/2 inch. And so forth for each different size cup

Jeff some ideas for you. You can used a winters quick-change rear i n your Nova. you can bolts on any axle length tube no welding required any length and can get any size axles Length axles that you want. in the back of the quick-change gear cover can unbolt pull the plate off and also change your gear setup in minutes for quick change very easily without losing all your gear oil. Also you can get a older winner quick-change rear pretty cheap look up used old and new stock car parts for sale quick-change Rears you can find a lot of parts there that will fit right underneath the car you're working on. You can get Catalog for all the Center sections and tubes for a 9-inch rear you can weld it up yourself also if you want Jeff if you need a picture let me know. or you can even go to a junkyard and get a Corvette rear axles and brackets little bit of fabrication it will definitely fit your car Or if you're looking to build a rear there's a place that sells the center section and tubes and axles the size that you need.. I see you have a TIG welder weldpro they make awesome Tig and Welding machines does yours have pulse set up in your TIG welding machine. Oh by the way I install these Quick Change over the years on my street rods for the street these Franklin and Winters quick-change rear. even Corvette Rears I have used them in the past oh my street cars Pontiac Chevy. Need help just holler God bless brother doing an awesome job

nice looking job i think i would put a drain in the housing

Great job I did something similar 15 years ago cost me about $5k then but I only did the assembly work. Made one mistake used original push rod on summit RPM heads. I ate the pushrod after about 5k miles.

The low amount of horsepower thus engine has... Does NOT need stud girdles! SMH!

I'm running my 67 Chevelle with cast iron heads at 11 to 1 and pump gas. Even 87 doesn't ping... Its all in the camshaft that you use!

How much horsepower you think it's making?

Damn, them bare blocks at summit runs 2100.00 now! Ha ha

Great video!!

What's the fun in buying a car

How much fuel 91+octane does it take to break in engine for how long of a period of time, and how many cycles of break ins???

Hit it right on the money with that last comment, Do what you love , Yes Sir

Awesome job building that 383 Motor😎

Just wondering That cam you put in it is that hydraulic cam or a solid camp? And did you use the proper braking in oil? When you breaking in that motor should be 2,500 RPMs at least a half an hour if not a little bit more. I recommend that you had a radiator in place and hooked up to the motor to get the proper temperature and pressure for breaking in the motor. but using a garden hose you're flowing in constant cool water which will never bring the block temperature up to a temperature and pressure to get all the water through all the water passages that you need to break in that motor properly.😎

My old school was 202 fuelly heads

Question are you going to be racing 383 or just Street use?.

Summit does not selling these blocks anymore

Built , not bought! You are on the way to having a killer street toy my friend!

You have to check piston to deck height then you can figure out your quench. it is so important to figure out the quench or you won't get proper combustion burn in the Chamber leads to lack of horsepower. you can get a tool for checking piston to deck height clearance. First you want to check piston 2 deck height first and then check valve to piston relief clearance that were cut into your flat top pistons. now there is a gap from 45 thousands of an inch minimum to 60 thousands of an inch Max. That where you want to be. I had mine set at clearance 45 thousands of an inch and I still had enough valve relief from piston to valve clearance and you can check valve clearance to piston with modelers clay. Some people run a wider Gap 4 quench is that some people that they're afraid something will go wrong or piston will hit the bottom of the head or not enough valve clearance which will call damage. I personally like the tolerances as close as possible. Awesome videos thanks for sharing God bless brother

Awesome build on that 383 stroker motor well done

How are you Cooling off that 383 stroker motor and I hear that the valve train is very noisy is it a solid cam or hydraulic cam I've done a few 383 stroker Motors in my day if you ever need any high performance cams numbers for that 383 let me know I got a few good cam grind pretty wicked for the street

I also think a roller cam block is still considered as Old School. I think a roller cam is worth the extra cost

Stroker is the "only" way to go. Each to his own on all my points of interest and concerns. Why no Crane cam and Harland Sharp roller rockers? The Vortec heads have a considerable restriction on what intakes will work even though 400's ran (run) their best volumetric efficiency with them bc they facilitate such a drastic unshrouding of the intake valves. You mentioned your crank having 350-sized main journals must be why you mentioned King bearings? Good choice on the Clevite models bc they have been winning races since B4 King was even thought of. Your .200 gain on the 350 journal crank is primarily less surface feet per second and a bit less rotational mass. Lastly these blocks scare me enough just being 2 bolts due to how the hole is already a through-hole by the undercut in the main bearing web area. A better idea would be to splay the outer bolts on a factory 2-bolt block. I have a '70 Warranty Replacement 2-bolt 3951511 block that needs to get back on the street.

Hello from Youngstown brother God bless , I guess we're neighbors I myself have a 73 Nova 👍

Good work ,like my father say ,slowy but surely. Budjet is a thing and money it's a other . For rust proofing ,I prefer por15 it's cover is very good and yes you can shoot the product with a spray gun foor rust proofing .Keep the good work sir!