Sugar SG1 acoustic guitar build part 50: Fitting the top and back
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- Опубліковано 7 чер 2019
- I get the brace ends trimmed and notched into the linings.
Having got a nice sealed cavity I determine the resonant frequency of the air cavity - the Helmholtz frequency.
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Gona make a guitar soon, and I can't wait for the resumption of your science! Great work.
Another wonderful video. Watching you use the green measuring tools you made is a joy. You are so creative.
I so lovely all your ep. Please making it to showing knowledge Especially in your tap tune in back with stobosolft. Please do it on soundboard too.
Buenas notches :D One more sawing tip: It's a good habit to make the strokes as long as possible, while keeping the pressure so light that the saw moves easily. The cut quality and accuracy improves and the saw stays sharp longer.
Greetings Susan. In addition to sound hole size and tuning the sound board and back to adjust the air or space inside, you could do a Reverse TARDIS. i.e. make it smaller on the inside. Probably not ideal, but some light weight filler, perhaps some blocks of balsa could take some air space out. Alternatively, go full TARDIS and do some clever transmission line type of an arrangement as in the transmission line design speakers to coerce the sound to travel farther and affect the resonate frequency of your instrument. Just some thoughts. Enjoying your videos.
Cheers.
Great notches!
A couple of things occur to me Susan watching the video. Building a fair few guitars over the years I've honed my method of fitting top and back to the point now I'm happy with it. So....to mark the brace pockets I attach lots of cup hooks to my mould and stretch large (I think about 20mm wide) elastic bands across the plate to keep it located and prevent it from moving). To cut the brace pockets I use my Proxxon router on my fancy Microfence plunge router base which is incredibly precise. Used to use a Dremel and Stewmac base and it was almost as good. Lastly I'm a great believer in the use of "idiot tape". So where you nicked the top whilst tapering the finger braces I'd have had masking tape in place to prevent it. I also have tape placed in any location where the chisel might slip. It's a small thing but makes a difference I feel. You're getting there with the build!
Thanks Gerry. I’ll definitely use idiot tape when I do refinements as the brace ends must now remain untouched
So now knowing the sound cavitiy resonates 95Hz, what does that mean for the actual guitar?
I’ll explain in a future video, but it’s a reference point to tune the other frequencies of the top and back to create a well balanced sound with no badly behaved notes. 95Hz lies between the F# and G on the bottom string, although this will shift a bit when coupled with the top and back.
I only know of one company that makes a small bodied guitar that does not sound "boxy"-C F Martin making guitars for 170+ years,
It would be great to run your test on one of those for comparison.............................
I totally agree, but I don’t think I know anyone who has (and is prepared to lend me) a Martin O (or maybe OOO)
Are you just broadcasting the sound across the guitar top or is there a mechanical connection to the box?
Great job on all your videos! THANKS
Yes, just broadcasting across the top. I don’t want a mechanical connection as it’s only the air I’m interested in. I’ll be looking into the interaction of the top, back and air cavity in a future video
Sorry, I was late, I was watching Disc Golf.
Beats the shit out of Love Island! (I think)