Evaluating the scary sharpening system
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- Опубліковано 3 бер 2019
- Having watching Crimson Guitars and Workshop Heaven's video on the Scary Sharpening system, I was so impressed I bought the kit to try myself.
You can watch Crimson Guitars' video here:
• The Last Scary Sharp T...
I have no affiliation with Workshop Heaven. You can find the kit that I bought here:
www.workshopheaven.com/worksh...
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"It's a beautiful piece of kit..." I just love British expressions! Reminds me of my late Brummie mum!
Me too, Susan. I posted a long comment on Ben's site, but it basically comes down to - the clearest description of scary sharp on the web. You can test the concept with any flat surface and high grit abrasive paper and honing guide. You will immediately get sharp chisels quick. Then Matt's abrasives are a big step better. You can get thick float glass from a local glazier for a fraction of the cost, mind you!
You amasing woman there!! Thank you for explaing everything so good!
Ha! I've got one of those blue things. Several of my chisels won't hold in it because they have perpendicular sides, no chamfer / bevel. And yes, it topples.
I found that ordering a couple of sheets of the 100 micron course grit for the reverse side of the glass I could relatively quickly put an accurate 25 degree bevel on vintage marples (and the like) chisels ... following this the quick honing worked as for new chisels. You could also regrind the 25 degree bevel on a grinding wheel to get a true start point.
I looked up the prices of this system and the thing that is really scary about it is the prices. The glass following the curvature of the earth ? Come on the only thing that is revolutionary about is the amount of mumbo jumbo they are telling about it. I have no doubt that it will sharpen, but so does a few pieces of waterproof paper and a piece of dumpster plate glass. Add some water with dishwashing liquid and if you want to use somethig for a fixed angle, and you have the same for a fraction of the cost. There is this proverb that goes somewhat like this: For the farmer it does not matter ihether the cat is white, black or striped, as long as she is catching mice. Same for for sharpening. It is first and foremost the result that counts and in 2nd place the time and cost of the solution.
Good review. Personally, I'm not convinced about this system but I was almost sold after watching the original video. I bought the Veritas honing guide a while back and realised that it is OK for resetting plane blades and initial chisel grind but for day to day sharpening, there is nothing quicker and more convenient than a single fine stone of choice and strop (or palm of hand as my Dad used as a jobbing joiner). Plus, I don't have room on my bench for a delicate contraption like that and having to pull it out 3 times a day (being careful not to smash it) if I'm doing intensive work. It would be interesting to see if you still use it in 6 months time. Please keep us informed.
i use a 1000 grit dimond plate then finish them off a leather strop with a bit of honing paste on it it takes about 30s too do and you can see your face in the back of the chisel cheers ian
Hi Susan, I also saw the same video and bought the system,after it arrived I spent 3 hours sharpening everything that wasn't nailed down. What joy! I have struggled for ages trying to get my plane blades sharp especially my 4 1/2 but now it is brilliant. Regards Jim
great talk through Susan, BIT on the expensive side but worth it if youve got the money
Hi Susie, at first I thought your guide was really cool but I just don’t know for sure after watching the entire video. You made me think and look at my own chisels and as I have a top set with no individuals, they are all ground about the same. I’m thinking that one almost needs a small shim system to ensure that they all remain square and precise to the surface. Thank you for the video and all your videos. It been quite a while since I’ve posted but I enjoy every one you put up! Buddy
If you carry on with the Stanley chisel because it is not flat in the jig the chisel will end up out of square on the end
It already is. It’s not critical. I might try to grind the edges square so the bevel recovers
That system will only work well if you get the chisel flat in the guide, otherwise you get the angle wrong.
"Over sharpen the blade and the edge will soon blunt."Lao Tsu 400 bc.
Not a precision tool but this is useful for quickly getting angles in the right ballpark before honing www.toolstation.com/scheppach-tiger2000s-120w-200mm-wet-stone-sharpener/p47645
All of your comment and work remaking the bevel of your bevel down Stanley blade was a complete waste. The bevel angle of a bevel down plane only needs to be less than the seating angle of the blade on the frog.
You need to get acquainted with someone who has a surface grinder, that way you would save a few hours if not days.
The method works, but boy it has a stupid name :-) You can take out a bend in a chisel with the subtle method of hitting it with a hammer. Just need to be careful not to overdo it with either hitting too hard or hitting too many times. One hit with correct force is optimal.
I had to do that on a bull nose blade - 2 hits across the tool well on my bench and I had a perfect concave. The problem with the chisel was it was just the final 2cm were convex - the rest of the chisel was fine - not something a hammer could fix.
‘Guided honing using abrasive film’ isn’t very catchy, but ‘scary’ is a bit silly.
It is a stupid name.