Nice job and a nice save! If it were mine, I'd hit it with some Simple Green, to degrease and rinse in good old hot water, then into a warm over to dry. While still warm from the oven, I'd use rattle can red engine paint, to protect it from rust, and to make it easier to spot. I've done this to a number of tools that I've found at yard sales or thrift shops. This method works well, and you end up with a better tool than you can generally find today at anywhere near the price. You can add to that the pride of workmanship that goes with bringing an old tool back from the junk pile. Keep up the good work. Merry Christmas
David Gonyeau A tool like this I will keep oiled and put it it in the tool box I have painted some of my old hammers and old wrenches with a flat or semi gloss black I do like flat black because you can oil over top of it and it looks nice Thanks for watching and also have A Merry Christmas
Tap looks like 3/8 x16..? For the horizontal slit running up the shank, try running a strip of maybe 220 grit crocus cloth back and forth to clean its faces. For the hollow core inner cleaning, i would take a spare 1/2" copper fitting brush thats used to abrade the female fitting prior to sweat soldering, and grind the steel bristles down till it fits slightly snug within the cylinder I want to buff. Cut the handle off the end and put the shank in your drill. Spin it up and insert into that hollow cylinder and buff away anything thats in there. I like how you take what is essentially a perfectly good tool, albeit rusty etc, and make it as good as new. Good man! :)
Sam P I don't know what the tap was I just grabbed it out of the box ...I have alot of older tools I've cleaned up they are made better than most of the new cheap stuff
Ever try Evapo-Rust? I thought it was some kind of snake oil until I tried it on a floor lamp pole, cast iron base, and the socket holder shell. I was quite amazed that the rust disappeared, gone. It got down into the crevasses that my bead blaster couldn't get into. I read here and there that others have made up similar solutions using raw syrup (feed store) and water, etc. It works the same way, as a chelating agent is created that rips the oxygen away from the iron, on the iron oxide molecules.
boogerhead0 I have not tried it but I have seen it used in a few videos It does work well . next time I will try it. I have used CLR but the smell was so bad I won't use that again
Thanks for sharing. Tool looks superb!Glad to know that I am not the only person that enjoys clean & properly working tools.
Nice job and a nice save! If it were mine, I'd hit it with some Simple Green, to degrease and rinse in good old hot water, then into a warm over to dry. While still warm from the oven, I'd use rattle can red engine paint, to protect it from rust, and to make it easier to spot. I've done this to a number of tools that I've found at yard sales or thrift shops. This method works well, and you end up with a better tool than you can generally find today at anywhere near the price. You can add to that the pride of workmanship that goes with bringing an old tool back from the junk pile. Keep up the good work. Merry Christmas
David Gonyeau A tool like this I will keep oiled and put it it in the tool box I have painted some of my old hammers and old wrenches with a flat or semi gloss black I do like flat black because you can oil over top of it and it looks nice Thanks for watching and also have A Merry Christmas
A clean tool shows that you are respectful.
pete oconnor Thanks I have saved alot of old neglected tools I do try to take care of my tools I have some that I have had for 30+ years
Nice clean up man !!
I have a tap for a hex bolt that is M12-1.25 x 35mm.... can someone tell me what size tap wrench I would need? Would a 1/4"-1/2" adjustable one work?
Measure the square end of the tap that should show you
WanderleiSilva29
Tap looks like 3/8 x16..? For the horizontal slit running up the shank, try running a strip of maybe 220 grit crocus cloth back and forth to clean its faces. For the hollow core inner cleaning, i would take a spare 1/2" copper fitting brush thats used to abrade the female fitting prior to sweat soldering, and grind the steel bristles down till it fits slightly snug within the cylinder I want to buff. Cut the handle off the end and put the shank in your drill. Spin it up and insert into that hollow cylinder and buff away anything thats in there. I like how you take what is essentially a perfectly good tool, albeit rusty etc, and make it as good as new. Good man! :)
Sam P I don't know what the tap was I just grabbed it out of the box ...I have alot of older tools I've cleaned up they are made better than most of the new cheap stuff
thats very cool mam
THANKS !!!!
Ever try Evapo-Rust? I thought it was some kind of snake oil until I tried it on a floor lamp pole, cast iron base, and the socket holder shell.
I was quite amazed that the rust disappeared, gone. It got down into the crevasses that my bead blaster couldn't get into.
I read here and there that others have made up similar solutions using raw syrup (feed store) and water, etc. It works the same way, as a chelating agent is created that rips the oxygen away from the iron, on the iron oxide molecules.
boogerhead0 I have not tried it but I have seen it used in a few videos It does work well . next time I will try it. I have used CLR but the smell was so bad I won't use that again