@martdaymo Thanks for your question. There are three battery type options you can select, AGM (default), Flooded and User-Defined. I use the User one which has selectable voltage ranges as follows:- Bulk charging voltage (CV voltage) is 25V-29.2V (Default 28.2V) Floating charging voltage is 25V-29.2V (Default 27V) Low DC cut-off voltage is 20V-24V (Default 21V) I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
@hugobenjegard6772 Good day and thanks for your question. Yes, I've run the unit many times without the inverter being switched on, just charging the battery from solar. You can also do the same for charging from mains power. All the best, Adrian
@martinmooren9536 Good day and thanks for your question. Yes, I've run the unit many times without the inverter being switched on, just charging the battery from solar. You can also do the same for charging from mains power. All the best, Adrian
@hugobenjegard6772 Good day and thanks for your question. With the inverter on and no-load the clamp meter measures around 1.3A. With power saving mode on it uses around 0.4A. I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
I got this installed and works nicely. Regarding the app - that was a pig to set up. I didn't see a tutorial for setting that up but in retrospect it makes sense, you have to connect to the logger to set its wifi to your wifi (using their app) then it reboots and then you end up back on your wifi and hopefully it sees it. In my case I added the dongles number before that step so after it rebooted it was just there. With regard to setting inverter options I think you said it was a bit hit and miss. It works 100% of the time, the thing that makes it look like its not working is that the module only connects every 5 min. So if you make a change its up to 5 min to take effect as it sends the command on the next connection. In my case I have a small 8x12 pent garden office with a PC and air conditioning, some network switches and a few other birts and bobs and I have 6 265W Panels flat on the roof - so nothing about that setup is optimal - and yet, it comfortably powers the office even without sun. I use about 350W all day unless the AC is on which is another 900Wm but usually the sun is whats causing the problem when I need that and I have a glut of power at that time. During the night it has to use mains but I still consider that a win.
@dr_jaymz Great to hear you got it working after the fiddly dongle setup. The whole reboot process caught me out the first time, but really handy for connecting to other inverters as it's plug 'n' play with the comm port (similar inverters), just change the name in the app when it detects a different serial number. I got round the 5 min polling by moving to solar assistant (ua-cam.com/video/DHHiSgIEdJE/v-deo.html) which is now my favourite monitoring method. That's a nice setup, especially with AC too! Have you considered angling the panels as this might help during the colder months when the sun is lower? All the best, Adrian
@DADvinci yes, I thought about angling, but when it's cloudy in winter, I might be just as well with straight up. I was suprised on friday when it was generating 1.3KW which is more than I'd hoped for. In fact now I'm a bit annoyed that I can't export to the rest of the house to offset car charging or the damn tumble dryer. This system is overpowered so it works in winter, the AC is inverting so does heat quite well but unlikely there will be enough to power that outside of BST. But given the panels produce so much maybe Microinverters would be better. Still, I'll stick with as is for now.
@dr_jaymz I see what you mean now. Have you considered just running an extension lead (fully unwound, if one of the wind-up ones) and then running some of your household appliances, one at a time? My current setup is essentially off-grid using extension leads around the house until I can get the 2 x15kWh 48V batteries on-grid (trying to find an installer). I run my dishwasher, washing machine, portable induction hob, pretty much anything I can unplug from the wall which has really worked well over recent years.
@DADvinci I think heating the hot water cylinder is probably the best and easiest. The specific heat capacity of water is astronomical and we heat that with gas daily at 4pm. So it will just take less gas and will use exactly the surplus. For solar assistant do you know the pin out? I have plenty of patch cables and usb serial adapters I googled it and found 6 different possibilities, but it's better to find someone who already has it working. I don't even even know if its serial ttl or proper 232, then I can give solar assistant a go. Conventionaly could use the cable supplied, and it rs232 would normally be 2,3,5. But you never know.
I have an mpp. Pip 5648mt and the fans, or at least one of them seems to go full blast 24/7.. even with nothing happening.. no per in or out. Just standby. Isn't constipation is way too high. I'm ditching it for a transformer inverter and separate victron rs charge controller
@herbertvonsauerkrautunterh2513 I know what you mean (both my MPP units have their fans on constantly). It was a pleasant surprise with these cheap EASUN units, didn't expect much from them. Transformer based inverters have their advantages (longer lasting, better surge, etc), so if weight and cost isn't an issue they are a very good choice. Do you know what manufacturer you're going to use for the inverter? All the best, Adrian
Morning Adrian. Just got one of these but I have the 12volt version to try out and play with. I will do a tear down to see what components they have used etc. I already have a grid tie inverter running that will feed back power to the grid if not consumed. I repair a lot of electronics, so I have no problems with the installing. The Only Question I have is if it is wired to grid and solar and with batteries. If when the batteries are full and solar has surplus power from lack of house consumption, does it give the excess back to the grid. Kind Regards. Paul
@PaulRush-rx9sj Hey Paul! It's been on my list to get the 12V version, but I have a habit of being distracted (usually by batteries) and not having enough money to get it all😆 (own worst enemy). That's really interesting about your electronics expertise as I popped this one after doing a clean (to remove dust and check out the internals). It was on my list to publish the video a while back, but have had other things come up, so I might post it sooner to get your input if you have a comparison from your own findings (area of board and component popped, slight burn mark on board, etc). I bought another one as apart from a noisy fan, it worked flawlessly for around 9 months until I 'cleaned' it 🤣. These are not grid-tie inverters, so wiring up directly to a CU will only allow for charging/pass-through on the inverter and it will disconnect the solar once the batteries are full. It does that on mine and I only use the grid to charge when Octopus Agile is negatively priced or very cheap (like overnight today due to the storm). The equivalent spec grid-tie ones are typically more expensive. I'd like to hear what you find and share the damage on my expired 24V as I don't like binning stuff that's repairable. I've also made a slight mod on my new one to reduce the dust getting inside. Adding a cut piece of vacuum cleaner filter over the intake at the bottom seems to be working ok during testing. Temps don't seem to have been affected, but I guess that's only going to show up in the middle of summer. All the very best, Adrian
@@DADvinci @DADvinci Hi Andy. Yes, did a bit of reverse on the main board. Yes, you are correct in the 230v input is a one way in to add to solar batts not bidirectional. Not a fan of 12v due to cable sizing and all but I just wanted to play around with it. My 12v version does not charge the batteries until it sees 45-47watts of solar coming in then it will start charging. Seems Ok for what it is. But a tear down will show what Crappy caps they maybe have gone with. LOL. Send me a pic of your damaged board with what it was doing when it failed, and I will give you, my thoughts. Nice to Chat. Cheers. Paul
Hi i didn't succeed to connect the inverter with the app I connect it in hot spot mode but i didn't succeed to add it on the list of equipment. could you explain hosw you did it thanks
@arnaudmainil6414 Good day! I'm sorry to hear it didn't work for you. I added it as a new device whilst connected to my home Wi-Fi (making sure it was in good range) then scanned the datalogger QR code. From what I remember it took a couple of attempts and was slow to connect initially, but then worked. Is yours in good range of Wi-Fi via home broadband or mobile hotspot? I think it needs a 2.4Ghz channel on Wi-Fi. All the best, Adrian
@qwertyasdfghg7714 Thanks for your question. With the inverter on and no-load the clamp meter measures around 1.3A. With power saving mode on it uses around 0.4A. I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
Is the inverter still performing strongly? How many days have you had it on for constantly without it being switched off? Looking at my next inverter choice.
@sun-sea-solar G'Day! I had it on for months before switching over to my 48V setup and it's currently charging my 24V dump battery as I'm being paid to grid-charge today (up to 8.82p per kWh used!). Are you going for 24V or 48V? Cheers, Adrian
@adamganjaman2275 That's no typo, it's the Agile tariff from Octopus Energy. The prices are split into 30min chunks throughout the day and when there's too much energy on the grid (usually from wind during storms), the wholesale price of electricity can go negative as they want to balance the grid, so pay customers to use it. It's not all the time, but generally the prices for me have been lower on Agile (since I joined in Jan 2024) than what I used to pay on their fixed price standard tariff. As long as you limit the usage during peak time 16:00-19:00 when it usually goes in excess of 25-30p kWh (capped at £1 kWh). I'm trying to find a way to get my batteries on the grid so I can, in effect, trade energy to reduce my costs especially during the winter months when solar isn't generating enough. The standing charge as it stands today is ridiculous and in May my standing charge (£14.88) was almost double the cost of the actual electricity (£7.97) I used for the whole month! All the best, Adrian
@sun-sea-solar I found it useful while out and about (+ config changes) and is reasonable in cost terms. I'm now a convert to Solar Assistant. It costs more upfront, but the refresh rate (almost instant vs 5 ish mins for dongle) and general usability is superior for me. I do use SA for battery monitoring too. Did you see the SA video? Cheers, Adrian
hello, I also have a 3.8kw SMH II, but I have a problem, at the PV input without connected panels, I have a constant 7-8v, can you measure at your place, please tell me if you also have PV voltage with are they disconnected?
mine is input 56V with no PV connected and output 3kva with no output connected. Brand new inverter connected only on batter first time. EASUNPOWER refused to accept my return reguest 4 months pass and no suport evento fix issue at a brand new inverter. Very bad company ran away or loss you money
@@parrotsparadiselife I have asked electricians who have repaired something like this and they told me that the inverter is electrically non-isolated and has voltage on all the outputs and inputs when it is working, but on the PV side they told me that I must have somewhere under 20v, that's how they are everything from what I understood, now it seems to me that you have a bigger problem
@@StefanMarianmine is brand new never wired work. An inverter connected to only battery wires it must have PV 0v input and 10-20w output for self consumption. Mine have pv1 0v pv2 56v and output 3kva just batteries wired on inverter. EASUNPOWER reply to me after a video request that it is the first time they see that... but no action to solve any problem of a brand new machine instead after 4 months i still have a band new broken inverter. Very bad company do not buy.
@StefanMarian Good day! To clarify, you've got no PV wiring connected to the PV input on the inverter and you'd like me to test the voltage at the PV input without wiring connected? Are you not using PV on your inverter? Please let m know. All the best, Adrian
@@DADvinci yes, that means the inverter works on batteries or grid, but the panels are not connected, I have 7-8vdc in their port, I understood that this is normal because these inverters are not isolated, I wanted to see if this happens to you too, because there aren't many on youtube, thanks :)
Hi. Could you please check if the inverter has USB (Utility first) as an available output source priority (parameter 01, in the manual only appear SUB and SBU)? Thanks!
@adb8478 Thanks for your question. The manual matches what's available on the inverter itself (no USB). The default option (as below) will offer the closest to what you are requesting, as long as solar isn't available. All the best, Adrian Default Option (SUB - Solar Utility Battery) Solar energy provides power to the loads as first priority. If solar energy is not sufficient to power all connected loads, utility will supply power to the loads at the same time. Battery provides power to the loads only when any one condition happens: - Solar energy and utility is not available. - Solar energy is not sufficient and utility is not available.
@@DADvinci That's a problem, because it means that when there is solar, AC charging is not available (it shares circuitry with inverter, so both functions cannot work at the same time), so it doesn't fit my purpose, which is feeding the hybrid with the surplus production of a grid inverter (and putting just a few panels on the hybrid). Fortunately, I've found that Y&H SP-2200W-12V (24V also available), which shares design, has USB priority available. Thanks for confirming my suspicion.
Thanks for the review - great info! I am looking for an efficient inverter with very low stand-by consumption and low-noise fan or passive cooling. The pro here seems to be the variable fan speed and in the video the sound seems not too bad. At what power (in percent of nominal power) does the fan typically kick in? And can you confirm stand-by consumption of only 2W as claimed on the easun-website? Some comments here seem to have very different experience...
@rilosvideos877 Thanks for your kind feedback, I'm glad it was useful 👍. With the inverter on and no-load the clamp meter measures around 1.3A from the battery cable. With power saving mode on it uses around 0.4A, so not 2W as claimed. I didn't get any amps registered on my plug monitor when connected to the grid (not charging the battery). It's difficult to say when the fan kicks in as it seems to be based on load and inverter temperature (heat builds slowly over time even in standby, no-load), but as shown, the fan response is much better than my MPP solar 24V equivalent. These cheaper inverters are not quiet, especially under higher load or when solar is generating a decent amount. If you are after passively cooled or inverters with extremely low standby, the cost goes up quite a bit. This was always a purchase of the cheapest I could find and I've been pleasantly surprised with how well it has performed and continues to do so. I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
Hello Adrian, Posting my question under this video since the model is close to the one I'm getting. A) Can you (fairly easy) manually control on/off charging from grid? B) Can you think of any way to control the time to have the AC charger kick on? I.e. 1am to 5 am? Cheers and thanks John
@jbjensen11 Hey John! I use smart plugs for all mains charging of batteries now (exploiting cheap rates with Octopus Energy in the UK). Using the Smart Life app you can schedule switch on/off times or more recently with Solar & Home Assistant. Here's the piece where I've started smart charging automation on Home Assistant ua-cam.com/video/DHHiSgIEdJE/v-deo.htmlsi=rJT9Wd-kpfaXrrG8&t=1538, set a price and then it charges once it falls below that price (30 min price changes). I hope this helps 😊👍. Cheers, Adrian
@@DADvinci Thanks a lot for your answers Adrian! Thats what I do, except I (still) have not autmated pulling the rates online somewhere, but Ill get into that and will check out what you do with home assistant, which i dont know anything about yet. -So let me now rephrase my question: using the smart plug, you can obviously time that any way you like - so you the EASUN will just start charging once the smartplug kicks on the AC input power to it? (No need to click anything extra - just supply AC power and it starts charging?)
@jbjensen11 Yes, that's correct John. Once I connect the grid it provides pass-through power to the AC output on the inverter and also charges the battery. I only use grid to charge the battery on cheap rate, otherwise it's battery with solar running the loads. I hope this answers your question?
@@DADvinci Thanks a lot. I will primarely use the unit as a charger, but need a way to program it to only charge when grid rates are cheap(like you) and the seller doesen't understand my question or answers something else... Looks like, if I just hook up AC input (through a smart plug) and connect to battery, then by programming the smart plug the unit will charge when the smart plug is powered. Correct? Any settings (besides LiFePo4 charging specs) I should beware of? Later I may utilize the inverter and passthrough options, also. For now I'm happy with my Victron Solar Controlllers and will not use the EASUNS MPPT controllers. It's actually good value, only as a charger - and I like the rest of the functions to play around with later and to have as backup in case any of my current hardware fails.
@jbjensen11 No problem at all. On this 24V inverter, other than changing the LiFePO4 settings as you’ve said, I've got the Output Source Priority (Menu 01 Option) on the default setting SUB. On the Charger Source Priority (Menu 16 Option) again on the default SNU. I don't currently have solar connected to this 24V setup, but it works fine for grid charging (same as 48V version) using the smart plug as control. Like you, I'm also looking to find and review another cheap solar inverter (48V this time) to act as a 'cheap rate' charger for another DIY (not battery box) build. They do offer good value, especially when compared to dedicated LiFePO4 chargers!
building an ev range extender with this unit. got one on deal from china for 140 usd. 24v, 240v out, ~3kw max. wondering if I will be able to do pass through charging, so 240v in from the free ev charger, hopefully charging my 8kwh 24v range extender pack, while also outputting up to 3kw for my car? seems to me as long as the evse can supply enough amps, it should allow pass through charging to my car while also charging the range extender. it says max ac input current is 60a = ~14kw, so i would imagine it could do both with pass through? ~12.5a or 3kw for the car, another 60amps *24v=1.5kw for the battery? net is only 4.5kw
@vevenaneathna Thanks for your question. The rated output for this inverter is as you've mentioned. The max AC input is related to the charger 60A @24V which can be increased to 80A @24V when solar and AC charging is combined. I've not setup a direct mains connection for the AC input which specifies the use of a 32A breaker for this model in the manual. In theory it would provide pass-through while battery charging in your setup, but mine is limited to 3kW output due to wiring and the standard plug I use for AC input (battery charging only). I've got no way to test over and above 3kW on AC without a direct connection to a consumer unit. I'm trying to understand how the free EV charging is working for you? Is it a plug-in one? Does the EV charger just supply 240V output? Look forward to hearing more. All the best, Adrian
@@DADvinci ya so the ev charger supplies 240v at the j1772 output. ive seen teslas charging up to ~7kw on the charger so i know its capable, i think about 6.8kw per cord (usually 2 cords per box). i know with my own j1772 evse cord, the car tells the evse that it wants ~3-3.3kw, that message would be handed between the 220v output side of the inverter, into a nema 14-50 (50a rated) plug, into the evse cord, which communicates with the car to do ~3kw. the j1772 e-bike adapter is what i think is the magic black box. the plug says its rated at 220v at 50amps, but that doesnt seem to match the "12 gauge wire". it only has 2 lives, and a ground wire going into a nema 15-20 (which should nomrally only be 120v, 1 live, 1 neutral 1 ground). i suspect it is wired on the pilot line of the j1772 unit to request up to 20 amps, which would be around 4.8kw. i probably have to set the inverter to have a max charge rate of the battery to be 4.8kw - 3.3kw to the car, to avoid cooking the cables is my current plan. maybe a little bit lower like 16-18 amps total at 220v = ~4.25kw total or just plug in my battery pack seperatly after my car charges and dont mess around with pass through is probably most safe....
@vevenaneathna Thanks for sharing your setup👍. I wish I had a way to test it, but don't have an EV. I guess it's whether you want to risk it or not. Like your final point, I personally would take the more cautious approach and not use pass-through. Cheers, Adrian
@user-pk5lc8rr6c I think I've answered this question on the EASUN 48V inverter for this. Please let me know if you have any other questions. All the best, Adrian
Thanks a lot for that review. I wonder vhy this is 10 times less expansive that Victron's ones. Have you any clues ? I am right if I say that you can put grid AC IN to load your batteries then display AC CURRENT if PV is not producing ?
@rebelion5051 Thank you! I'm hoping you found it useful. This is a budget model so the internal components will not be as expensive as those used on Victron (premium) inverters. When charging from the grid, you can see the number of amps that are charging the battery by selecting what gets displayed on the front panel. Does that answer your question? All the best, Adrian
Hello, could you please advise if you know regarding charging voltage from solar? I have got easun smh-II-2.2k with lifepo4 12v battery connected and it seems that inverter cannot charge it full, only till 13.5v. Settings are user with bulk and float charge at 14.4v. I also noticed on the side of the unit there's a sticker and it says that AC Charger mode gives only 13.5v DC output. Thanks
@captainpacific6796 Good day and thanks for your question. I've not got the 12V version of this EASUN inverter range, (only 24V & 48V) but I bulk charge at double yours (for 24V) at 28.8V and I set my float to 27.2V (equivalent to 13.6V for your 12V system). Not much point going above this as only a small amount left. When I've tested using the AC charger on my 24V system, I've managed to get it into the 28V range (when setting the float higher) but it's usually the BMS on the battery that stops the charging as one cell hits 3.65V first. Is your battery balanced and it's not the BMS preventing it from going higher? In addition, you should find the solar and/or AC charging disconnects when the voltage gets to target voltage (as per setup) on the inverter or the BMS prevents charging due to high voltage disconnect. The AC charger spec appears to be a reference voltage (27V for my 24V inverter) as I can set mine higher, but don't see the need personally. All the best, Adrian.
Hi, I’m interested in purchasing this inverter, but didn’t find enough info about if it’s going to work with my 12v battery or I should consider upgrading the battery to 24V? I saw in the settings that there is an option to select battery voltage - have you tried using the inverter with 12v setup?
@finessefishing3870 Thanks for your question. This is specifically a 24V inverter and wouldn't work with a 12V battery (low voltage DC cut-out on this is 21V). You have a couple of options, get the 12V version of this inverter or upgrade the battery to 24V as you've mentioned. Usually, the higher the voltage an inverter runs at the higher the mains (230V) output in watts (depends on what you need to run), as long as the battery can supply the amps needed by the inverter to run at full-power. Please shout if you have any other questions. All the best, Adrian
@@DADvinci , hey Adrian, thank you so much for your help! So, I ordered the inverter and a 24V battery for it. Currently I’ll use the gas powered generator to charge the battery via the inverter, but I’m planning to get also some solar panels. Do you think that 2X410W will be enough to charge the battery during the winter (I’m located in northern Greece- should have about 3/4h of sun). Also, if I understand correctly I should connect the panels is series, so that the inverter will works with them. Here is the panels data : (Vmp) - 31.46V (Imp) - 13.04A (Voc) - 37.45 (± 3%) (Isc)-13.85A (± 3%)
@finessefishing3870 No problem at all, glad to help where I can. May I ask what size 24V battery (in Ah) you went for? I guess it will be down to how much you consume when the sun isn't shining (linked to how much battery capacity you have). Winter is always a test in the UK, whereas the bigger the solar panel array the better as the sun is very low on the horizon and doesn't show up for very long. The MPPT solar charging circuit in this 24V inverter has a working voltage range of 55-430Vdc and a max (total) Voc for all panels connected of 450Vdc (important to always remain under the max Voc voltage), not a problem for your proposed setup with two panels. With the panels you're looking at you'd have to connect in series as the Vmp of 31.46V is too low for the operating range of the MPPT solar circuit range (55-430Vdc), so connecting the two in parallel wouldn't work. In series, this would give you around 62.96V (2 x 31.46V in the best solar conditions = cooler sunny days). If you did have enough room without shade, I'd suggest more panels to ensure you're getting enough to remain in the MPPT range, especially during winter. If you could let me know about the above questions, as in, battery capacity and your typical daily usage, that might help more, but I'd still suggest more panel(s) if you have unshaded room and budget to do so. Cheers, Adrian
@ , thank you for the information, Adrian! The battery is 100Ah, but I’m planning on upgrading to 200 during next year. I have just ordered 3 panels of the mentioned above. Currently the forecast for daily consumption is about 2kWh. Most of which will be during the day with peek about 1.2kW-1.5kW. I know that the current setup is not optimal, but I’ll use the gas powered generator for this season.
@finessefishing3870 My pleasure👍. Great call on the panels! Your setup is very good to begin with and has the added benefit of being scalable, both with batteries and extra panels (if ever needed). Please let me know if you have any other questions. Take care, Adrian
@secuadrian5419 Good day! May I ask what the Voc (open-circuit voltage) is for each panel? I assume you want to connect in series and you won't have any problems with shading where they will be installed? All the best, Adrian
@NoiseSHome I'm sorry to hear things aren't working for you. I've added the SmartESS app links to the description (I'm using the Android version). I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
@deneurope8966 Thanks for your question. You use the phone to connect to Wi-Fi as part of the setup process and then once the Wi-Fi dongle can see the Internet (via your router) you then access the inverter using the app (only works while you have an Internet connection on the mobile). I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
Thank you for the video. What "Charger source priority" have you got on i.e, CSO, SNU or OSO. Which one is more efficient. Also for the wifi unit which model should we buy. Do you have a link for it? Cheers.
@SaurabhBohora No problem, I hope the video was useful for you. I use the default option (SNU) on charger default priority, as I'm either charging from solar (with no grid connected) or charging from the grid with no solar connected (for grid battery backup charging). Charging from solar is usually more efficient as the MPPT is already dealing with DC voltage, which is what the batteries are. Charging from mains would always be converting AC to DC voltage, so the losses would be more than direct from solar. The link is in the description for the model and the one I purchased was the ‘SMH-II-3.2K-Wifi’ version (it can be selected on the product page). I'm not sure why they have changed the image on the main description, but further down you can see the same version that I've got. Might be worth checking with the seller before purchase. I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
I would like to ask you another question again after last reply. Just wondering if it works without battery in Utility setting in Program 01=UTI, just grid power and solar power (Day and night)? Thank you
@MYMUSICCHANNEL-db4ky Thanks for your question. The solar charger is rated at 3000W (Max charging 80A). The main point to note is not exceeding the Max Solar Voltage (VOC - Open Circuit Voltage) 450VDC. I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
@ferdm9646 Water (depending on the comparative volume) should take the same amount of energy to boil it. It's how efficient the process of boiling the water is where the differences in energy consumption are. The 3kW is fast boil, hence the rating. I did a video on kettles some time ago (ua-cam.com/video/m_nNhqO1Nmc/v-deo.html) and the comments section covers the amount of energy (kWh) used in my test boiling 1L of water in the kettles I have. The results were surprisingly close.
@@DADvinci that's a very good and informative video indeed. However I'm wondering if it's fair enough to boil the water in a matter of second or wait 1-2 minutes to finish the task. Does this make any difference or efficiency issues with the inverter? Slow boiling and low power boilers are might be a good options cause you don't want your mighty inverter overloaded while you're working something important on your desktop pc! Let it boil slowly while I'm using powers for other important tasks. Maybe it makes sense to me but might not make sense to others. But thank you for your reply
@ferdm9646 Thanks for your kind feedback 👍. I guess it's all about options for what individuals need. I was demonstrating the inverter at close to full load to test if it really goes up to 3kW output as stated in the specs. You're correct that running additional loads while off-grid (with this fast boil kettle) could tip this inverter over the max load and result in a shutdown. I've now got the 48V version of this inverter and it can handle 6.2kW max load, so I run the kettle with other large loads at the same time.
Thank you for a great video! I am interested in the no load power consumption from the battery (clampmeter or shunt?) and also, verey important, the power consumption from the grid wiythout charging the battery from the grid (AC plug with a meter?)
@adrianr2740 Thanks for your kind feedback👍. With the inverter on and no-load the clamp meter measures around 1.3A. With power saving mode on it uses around 0.4A. I didn't get any amps registered on my plug monitor when connected to the grid (not charging the battery). I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
Hi. I have the same model. With battery full, allot of sollar, no load on inverter, it still consume 80w from the grid. This means 700kw every year jusr if you keep it connected to the grid. Very bad design. I took another invertor and I'm using this one as charger. Later edit: it looks that not all the time it is consuming 80w. I added a smart plug to monitor the standby consumtion from the grid and that 80w peak occure from time to time. So, in the end, it is not that bad.
Without load the consumption is very the voltage of battery is decreasing a lot and the economic mode is working only if the load is up tban 100 w than mean that it is not possible to run a fridge on economic mode🤬🤬
@@draghicicosmin8861 Are you sure? 80W from the grid for what? Just for heating? This would be an absolute no-go! They claim stand-by consumption is 2W on their website!
@janitrajkov5280 Good day and thanks for your question. The model specification for my unit has a Max. Solar Voltage (VOC) 450VDC. If your model is exactly the same as mine and based on what you've said for your 6 panels connected in series, it would be 6 x 49V (VOC) = 294V (Total VOC) which is lower than the max of 450VDC, meaning it's within the range of the inverter specs. I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
@mobro2030 Hey! Thanks for your question. It's the ISolar-SMH-II-3.2K (230V AC) model. Please let me know if you have any other questions. All the best, Adrian
@andybiggs4374 Hey Andy! I've tested it for quite a while as my main system. I've since moved on to the 48V for my 30kWh system (only bought the 48V because the 24V worked well and it was also cheap) and neither of these cheap inverters have caused any problems at all, so far. I just use them as if they weren't there, regularly getting the load up high by running major appliances at the same time, while using an induction hob or microwave (48V version) to cook. The 24V is currently being used to charge batteries up when grid energy is cheap or I get paid to use it during negative pricing. I was very sceptical when I first ordered the 24V version as it seemed too good to be true, but so far so good. At the price, it's difficult to justify buying the separate components to charge batteries (via solar or grid) and an inverter to provide mains power, whereas this is in one box. Even if it lasts a few years, it's cheap enough for me to not really worry about. I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
@LRDefender1968 Hey Tony! I usually run an all-in-one system (AC200P) attached to about 600-700 watts of 'moveable' panels in the garden. The main system, at the moment, is my 24V LiFePO4 shopping cart battery hooked up to my MPP 24V solar inverter, with the 4 x 360W panels (static) in the garden. I've got my MPP 12V solar station build as backup, which I can charge from the all-in-one or 24V shopping cart system (direct from solar if needed) when things are running low. I give priority to my fridge freezer and only hook-up to the grid for it when everything (including other portable power) is used up. I plan the usage of my washing machine, dishwasher and cooking around the weather where possible. Things are going to change though, as my 48V battery kit has turned up from China and it's a beast. Depending on tested capacity, it could be a 15kWh (expandable) system which is a game changer for winter and beyond. If I can find a way and installer to connect me up to the grid (correctly), this new battery could be the first step to grid integration, but I'm getting way ahead of the game at the moment. I hope this helps? Cheers, Adrian
Tank you for response! What if battery drops below 21v. does inverter going to turn on? Or I will be waiting until it reaches-charges to 23volts to use electricity ? Can I use electricity generated from solar panels if battery is less than 22v?
@drpainlesss Sorry for the delay, I didn't get a notification about your comment so missed it. My inverter doesn't work once it's gone below the low DC cut off (default 21V or user-defined 20V minimum). The batteries (BMSs) I use tend to shut down as well when they hit low voltage to protected themselves. The key is to have the setting high enough on the inverter so that the battery (BMS) doesn't shutdown the battery, so when solar is available again it can recharge. I hope this answers your question. All the best, Adrian
@triplextriplexxx8225 No problem. I’m afraid not. This inverter can be connected to the grid and used for battery charging/pass-through purposes, but not feed-in like grid-tie inverters. Please shout if you have any other questions. Cheers, Adrian
@@DADvinci thanks alot i found powmr 6.2kw for 350usd it has ability to feed back to grid . When it becomes availoble to feed back to grid i want to have it ready
@windyse860 Please can you let me know what you are referencing? I'm not sure what you mean. Fridge compressors do draw surge load when starting, but this inverter will handle it and the fans will increase for a short time until the compressor has started-up. Is that what you meant? All the best, Adrian
@@DADvinci once the compressor of the fridge has started the inverter will come off power saving for the duration of the functioning of the compressor. Fridge works fine with inverters that have power saving as long as the pulse the inverter emits has a high frequency. If the pulse is emitted not every second but every 2,3,5 seconds like I saw in several newer inverters such as Victron 12v1000w or Easun smx series or the low frequency RP series, then it might be a problem. I don't know this inverter from this UA-cam video, I never used it, but if the power saving impulse is every second it should be fine with the fridge
@dominIKhs Good day! It's definitely a MPPT model (link also in the description). Please can you let me know where you think I mentioned it wasn't in the video? Many thanks, Adrian
Hello sir , i have a question : is this inverter combines the load output if the solar is not enough ? For example if i have a 1kw solar array and i ask 1.4kw from the inverter will add the rest 400w from the grid or it will cut the panels and switch to grid all the load ?
@ghk84 Thanks for your question. You can change the 'output source priority' (main menu option 01) with the following two options. Default Option (SUB - Solar Utility Battery) Solar energy provides power to the loads as first priority. If solar energy is not sufficient to power all connected loads, utility will supply power to the loads at the same time. Battery provides power to the loads only when any one condition happens: - Solar energy and utility is not available. - Solar energy is not sufficient and utility is not available. 2nd Option (SBU - Solar Battery Utility) Solar energy provides power to the loads as first priority. If solar energy is not sufficient to power all connected loads, battery energy will supply power to the loads at the same time. Utility provides power to the loads only when battery voltage drops to either low-level warning voltage or the setting point in main menu option 12. I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
I am planning to purchase 4.2 kw, would u plz confirm how much inverter support solar pv input current? Or Either it supports 550 watt pv panels ( 50 volt and 13 amps each) Looking forward for your early response plz.
@muhammadyaseen6318 Good day and thanks for your question. This 24V solar inverter (Model - iSolar-SMH-II-3.2K) has Max. Solar Voltage (Voc) 450VDC and the MPPT Voltage range is 55-450VDC. I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
I m not agree with you about the fan. They could be more quiet because they are not linked to the temperature of the cabinet they are working even if the cabinet is in a room at 15 degrees. Also in low charge battery condition the values of current and power are wrong. The economic mode is bad it s not possible to run a fridge in this mode .In normal mode the unit use 40 W to run with 0 load so during the night the battery is discharged.
@arnaudmainil6414 It's fine to disagree with me. I've shared my experience compared with my MPP Solar inverter and the fan control is better on the EASUN (for me) when it comes to input and output load change, I didn't mention about temperature. I agree about the power saving mode (economic mode as you reference) and I don't use it myself due to the pulse method used. I've not had a problem with any of the settings I've used and the battery will discharge while the inverter is on, most inverters have a standby load unless you buy very expensive makes like Victron that have very low consumption when left on all the time. All the best, Adrian
I have issue with this inverter when i switch it off with the side button with only battery attached it keeps switching back on while beeping and then off again and keep repeating this cycle. It worked fine before i had system off fir few months and now it developed this odd behavior. Doeas anyone have idea what could thos be. It still works and provides ac i just cant switch it off manually
@DADvinci hi Adrian I'm using it purely as inverter and nothing else. I have victron solar controllers to handle battery charging and this inverter is only connected to my battery and no ac input. There is no fault codes as soon as I switch it off the screen dimm a bit and the buzzing sound come then it just start to turn itself on and off all the time. I know that two days ago I unplugged the battery supply but I forgot to turn victron first so my victron instead of feeding the battery start apply power to inverter. I think that could damage sorting internally in the inverter. Never had this problem before and I put thos inverter into lot of work in the past charging nissan leaf and it was spotless but now I'm experiencing this
@greg23842384 I'm sorry to hear you're having issues and thanks for the additional info. Have you been able to check the inverter settings as I'm wondering if running it with the battery temporarily disconnected managed to reset the core settings? Is the battery itself ok (running at the right voltage) and are you able to test with another battery? I'm hoping the inverter isn't damaged and it's just settings, but it doesn't sound right with the buzzing sound. It does work ok with the inverter switched on? Cheers, Adrian
@@DADvinci i check all settings and everything is same as it was before. Battery is healthy and at the right voltage i must of burn something internally in the inverter
My EASUNPOWER 8kva inverter arrived damaged 4months ago. NO PV conected but inverter output 60v and no AC output connected and inverter uses 3kva output. I have claim a return request that is never been accepted. 4 months pass EASUNPOEWR support is not here issue still here at a brand new inverter. Anybody need evidence I have video unpacking and connect to battery only. EASUN very bad company
Does anybody know what the battery voltage range is?
For example with the victron 24 volt inverters they work from 18-32 volts.
@martdaymo Thanks for your question. There are three battery type options you can select, AGM (default), Flooded and User-Defined. I use the User one which has selectable voltage ranges as follows:-
Bulk charging voltage (CV voltage) is 25V-29.2V (Default 28.2V)
Floating charging voltage is 25V-29.2V (Default 27V)
Low DC cut-off voltage is 20V-24V (Default 21V)
I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
Hi, do you know if it’s possible to only run the MPPT while switching of the inverter to minimize draw? Thanks!
Very curious to know also. I'm planning to use an hybrid inverter like this only for the high voltage mppt charge function only.
Ideally I’d also like to know the idle draw of the unit if you know that! Thanks again!
@hugobenjegard6772 Good day and thanks for your question. Yes, I've run the unit many times without the inverter being switched on, just charging the battery from solar. You can also do the same for charging from mains power. All the best, Adrian
@martinmooren9536 Good day and thanks for your question. Yes, I've run the unit many times without the inverter being switched on, just charging the battery from solar. You can also do the same for charging from mains power. All the best, Adrian
@hugobenjegard6772 Good day and thanks for your question. With the inverter on and no-load the clamp meter measures around 1.3A. With power saving mode on it uses around 0.4A. I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
I got this installed and works nicely. Regarding the app - that was a pig to set up. I didn't see a tutorial for setting that up but in retrospect it makes sense, you have to connect to the logger to set its wifi to your wifi (using their app) then it reboots and then you end up back on your wifi and hopefully it sees it. In my case I added the dongles number before that step so after it rebooted it was just there.
With regard to setting inverter options I think you said it was a bit hit and miss. It works 100% of the time, the thing that makes it look like its not working is that the module only connects every 5 min. So if you make a change its up to 5 min to take effect as it sends the command on the next connection.
In my case I have a small 8x12 pent garden office with a PC and air conditioning, some network switches and a few other birts and bobs and I have 6 265W Panels flat on the roof - so nothing about that setup is optimal - and yet, it comfortably powers the office even without sun. I use about 350W all day unless the AC is on which is another 900Wm but usually the sun is whats causing the problem when I need that and I have a glut of power at that time. During the night it has to use mains but I still consider that a win.
@dr_jaymz Great to hear you got it working after the fiddly dongle setup. The whole reboot process caught me out the first time, but really handy for connecting to other inverters as it's plug 'n' play with the comm port (similar inverters), just change the name in the app when it detects a different serial number.
I got round the 5 min polling by moving to solar assistant (ua-cam.com/video/DHHiSgIEdJE/v-deo.html) which is now my favourite monitoring method.
That's a nice setup, especially with AC too! Have you considered angling the panels as this might help during the colder months when the sun is lower? All the best, Adrian
@DADvinci yes, I thought about angling, but when it's cloudy in winter, I might be just as well with straight up. I was suprised on friday when it was generating 1.3KW which is more than I'd hoped for. In fact now I'm a bit annoyed that I can't export to the rest of the house to offset car charging or the damn tumble dryer. This system is overpowered so it works in winter, the AC is inverting so does heat quite well but unlikely there will be enough to power that outside of BST. But given the panels produce so much maybe Microinverters would be better. Still, I'll stick with as is for now.
@dr_jaymz I see what you mean now. Have you considered just running an extension lead (fully unwound, if one of the wind-up ones) and then running some of your household appliances, one at a time? My current setup is essentially off-grid using extension leads around the house until I can get the 2 x15kWh 48V batteries on-grid (trying to find an installer). I run my dishwasher, washing machine, portable induction hob, pretty much anything I can unplug from the wall which has really worked well over recent years.
@DADvinci I think heating the hot water cylinder is probably the best and easiest. The specific heat capacity of water is astronomical and we heat that with gas daily at 4pm. So it will just take less gas and will use exactly the surplus.
For solar assistant do you know the pin out? I have plenty of patch cables and usb serial adapters I googled it and found 6 different possibilities, but it's better to find someone who already has it working. I don't even even know if its serial ttl or proper 232, then I can give solar assistant a go. Conventionaly could use the cable supplied, and it rs232 would normally be 2,3,5. But you never know.
Thank you for your feedback
@windyse860 No problem. Please let me know if you have any questions. All the best, Adrian
I have an mpp. Pip 5648mt and the fans, or at least one of them seems to go full blast 24/7.. even with nothing happening.. no per in or out. Just standby. Isn't constipation is way too high. I'm ditching it for a transformer inverter and separate victron rs charge controller
@herbertvonsauerkrautunterh2513 I know what you mean (both my MPP units have their fans on constantly). It was a pleasant surprise with these cheap EASUN units, didn't expect much from them. Transformer based inverters have their advantages (longer lasting, better surge, etc), so if weight and cost isn't an issue they are a very good choice. Do you know what manufacturer you're going to use for the inverter? All the best, Adrian
Morning Adrian. Just got one of these but I have the 12volt version to try out and play with. I will do a tear down to see what components they have used etc. I already have a grid tie inverter running that will feed back power to the grid if not consumed. I repair a lot of electronics, so I have no problems with the installing. The Only Question I have is if it is wired to grid and solar and with batteries. If when the batteries are full and solar has surplus power from lack of house consumption, does it give the excess back to the grid. Kind Regards. Paul
@PaulRush-rx9sj Hey Paul! It's been on my list to get the 12V version, but I have a habit of being distracted (usually by batteries) and not having enough money to get it all😆 (own worst enemy). That's really interesting about your electronics expertise as I popped this one after doing a clean (to remove dust and check out the internals). It was on my list to publish the video a while back, but have had other things come up, so I might post it sooner to get your input if you have a comparison from your own findings (area of board and component popped, slight burn mark on board, etc). I bought another one as apart from a noisy fan, it worked flawlessly for around 9 months until I 'cleaned' it 🤣.
These are not grid-tie inverters, so wiring up directly to a CU will only allow for charging/pass-through on the inverter and it will disconnect the solar once the batteries are full. It does that on mine and I only use the grid to charge when Octopus Agile is negatively priced or very cheap (like overnight today due to the storm). The equivalent spec grid-tie ones are typically more expensive. I'd like to hear what you find and share the damage on my expired 24V as I don't like binning stuff that's repairable.
I've also made a slight mod on my new one to reduce the dust getting inside. Adding a cut piece of vacuum cleaner filter over the intake at the bottom seems to be working ok during testing. Temps don't seem to have been affected, but I guess that's only going to show up in the middle of summer. All the very best, Adrian
@@DADvinci @DADvinci Hi Andy. Yes, did a bit of reverse on the main board. Yes, you are correct in the 230v input is a one way in to add to solar batts not bidirectional. Not a fan of 12v due to cable sizing and all but I just wanted to play around with it. My 12v version does not charge the batteries until it sees 45-47watts of solar coming in then it will start charging. Seems Ok for what it is. But a tear down will show what Crappy caps they maybe have gone with. LOL. Send me a pic of your damaged board with what it was doing when it failed, and I will give you, my thoughts. Nice to Chat. Cheers. Paul
@PaulRush-rx9sj You're most kind, thank you👍😊 Take care, Adrian
Hi i didn't succeed to connect the inverter with the app I connect it in hot spot mode but i didn't succeed to add it on the list of equipment. could you explain hosw you did it thanks
@arnaudmainil6414 Good day! I'm sorry to hear it didn't work for you. I added it as a new device whilst connected to my home Wi-Fi (making sure it was in good range) then scanned the datalogger QR code. From what I remember it took a couple of attempts and was slow to connect initially, but then worked. Is yours in good range of Wi-Fi via home broadband or mobile hotspot? I think it needs a 2.4Ghz channel on Wi-Fi. All the best, Adrian
Did you test the no-load current draw from this inverter ?
@qwertyasdfghg7714 Thanks for your question. With the inverter on and no-load the clamp meter measures around 1.3A. With power saving mode on it uses around 0.4A. I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
Is the inverter still performing strongly? How many days have you had it on for constantly without it being switched off? Looking at my next inverter choice.
@sun-sea-solar G'Day! I had it on for months before switching over to my 48V setup and it's currently charging my 24V dump battery as I'm being paid to grid-charge today (up to 8.82p per kWh used!). Are you going for 24V or 48V? Cheers, Adrian
Is that a typo ? If your being paid 8. 82 what are people being charged I thought my country was a rip off.
@adamganjaman2275 That's no typo, it's the Agile tariff from Octopus Energy. The prices are split into 30min chunks throughout the day and when there's too much energy on the grid (usually from wind during storms), the wholesale price of electricity can go negative as they want to balance the grid, so pay customers to use it. It's not all the time, but generally the prices for me have been lower on Agile (since I joined in Jan 2024) than what I used to pay on their fixed price standard tariff. As long as you limit the usage during peak time 16:00-19:00 when it usually goes in excess of 25-30p kWh (capped at £1 kWh). I'm trying to find a way to get my batteries on the grid so I can, in effect, trade energy to reduce my costs especially during the winter months when solar isn't generating enough. The standing charge as it stands today is ridiculous and in May my standing charge (£14.88) was almost double the cost of the actual electricity (£7.97) I used for the whole month! All the best, Adrian
The app is quite useful? The dongle is the same for my edecoa was wondering whether to buy the dongle
@sun-sea-solar I found it useful while out and about (+ config changes) and is reasonable in cost terms. I'm now a convert to Solar Assistant. It costs more upfront, but the refresh rate (almost instant vs 5 ish mins for dongle) and general usability is superior for me. I do use SA for battery monitoring too. Did you see the SA video? Cheers, Adrian
hello, I also have a 3.8kw SMH II, but I have a problem, at the PV input without connected panels, I have a constant 7-8v, can you measure at your place, please tell me if you also have PV voltage with are they disconnected?
mine is input 56V with no PV connected and output 3kva with no output connected. Brand new inverter connected only on batter first time. EASUNPOWER refused to accept my return reguest 4 months pass and no suport evento fix issue at a brand new inverter. Very bad company ran away or loss you money
@@parrotsparadiselife I have asked electricians who have repaired something like this and they told me that the inverter is electrically non-isolated and has voltage on all the outputs and inputs when it is working, but on the PV side they told me that I must have somewhere under 20v, that's how they are everything from what I understood, now it seems to me that you have a bigger problem
@@StefanMarianmine is brand new never wired work. An inverter connected to only battery wires it must have PV 0v input and 10-20w output for self consumption. Mine have pv1 0v pv2 56v and output 3kva just batteries wired on inverter. EASUNPOWER reply to me after a video request that it is the first time they see that... but no action to solve any problem of a brand new machine instead after 4 months i still have a band new broken inverter. Very bad company do not buy.
@StefanMarian Good day! To clarify, you've got no PV wiring connected to the PV input on the inverter and you'd like me to test the voltage at the PV input without wiring connected? Are you not using PV on your inverter? Please let m know. All the best, Adrian
@@DADvinci yes, that means the inverter works on batteries or grid, but the panels are not connected, I have 7-8vdc in their port, I understood that this is normal because these inverters are not isolated, I wanted to see if this happens to you too, because there aren't many on youtube, thanks :)
Hi. Could you please check if the inverter has USB (Utility first) as an available output source priority (parameter 01, in the manual only appear SUB and SBU)? Thanks!
@adb8478 Thanks for your question. The manual matches what's available on the inverter itself (no USB). The default option (as below) will offer the closest to what you are requesting, as long as solar isn't available. All the best, Adrian
Default Option (SUB - Solar Utility Battery)
Solar energy provides power to the loads as first priority. If solar energy is not sufficient to power all connected loads, utility will supply power to the loads at the same time.
Battery provides power to the loads only when any one condition happens:
- Solar energy and utility is not available.
- Solar energy is not sufficient and utility is not available.
@@DADvinci That's a problem, because it means that when there is solar, AC charging is not available (it shares circuitry with inverter, so both functions cannot work at the same time), so it doesn't fit my purpose, which is feeding the hybrid with the surplus production of a grid inverter (and putting just a few panels on the hybrid).
Fortunately, I've found that Y&H SP-2200W-12V (24V also available), which shares design, has USB priority available.
Thanks for confirming my suspicion.
Thanks for the review - great info! I am looking for an efficient inverter with very low stand-by consumption and low-noise fan or passive cooling. The pro here seems to be the variable fan speed and in the video the sound seems not too bad. At what power (in percent of nominal power) does the fan typically kick in? And can you confirm stand-by consumption of only 2W as claimed on the easun-website? Some comments here seem to have very different experience...
@rilosvideos877 Thanks for your kind feedback, I'm glad it was useful 👍. With the inverter on and no-load the clamp meter measures around 1.3A from the battery cable. With power saving mode on it uses around 0.4A, so not 2W as claimed. I didn't get any amps registered on my plug monitor when connected to the grid (not charging the battery). It's difficult to say when the fan kicks in as it seems to be based on load and inverter temperature (heat builds slowly over time even in standby, no-load), but as shown, the fan response is much better than my MPP solar 24V equivalent. These cheaper inverters are not quiet, especially under higher load or when solar is generating a decent amount. If you are after passively cooled or inverters with extremely low standby, the cost goes up quite a bit. This was always a purchase of the cheapest I could find and I've been pleasantly surprised with how well it has performed and continues to do so. I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
Hello Adrian,
Posting my question under this video since the model is close to the one I'm getting. A) Can you (fairly easy) manually control on/off charging from grid? B) Can you think of any way to control the time to have the AC charger kick on? I.e. 1am to 5 am?
Cheers and thanks
John
@jbjensen11 Hey John! I use smart plugs for all mains charging of batteries now (exploiting cheap rates with Octopus Energy in the UK). Using the Smart Life app you can schedule switch on/off times or more recently with Solar & Home Assistant. Here's the piece where I've started smart charging automation on Home Assistant ua-cam.com/video/DHHiSgIEdJE/v-deo.htmlsi=rJT9Wd-kpfaXrrG8&t=1538, set a price and then it charges once it falls below that price (30 min price changes). I hope this helps 😊👍. Cheers, Adrian
@@DADvinci Thanks a lot for your answers Adrian!
Thats what I do, except I (still) have not autmated pulling the rates online somewhere, but Ill get into that and will check out what you do with home assistant, which i dont know anything about yet.
-So let me now rephrase my question: using the smart plug, you can obviously time that any way you like - so you the EASUN will just start charging once the smartplug kicks on the AC input power to it? (No need to click anything extra - just supply AC power and it starts charging?)
@jbjensen11 Yes, that's correct John. Once I connect the grid it provides pass-through power to the AC output on the inverter and also charges the battery. I only use grid to charge the battery on cheap rate, otherwise it's battery with solar running the loads. I hope this answers your question?
@@DADvinci Thanks a lot. I will primarely use the unit as a charger, but need a way to program it to only charge when grid rates are cheap(like you) and the seller doesen't understand my question or answers something else...
Looks like, if I just hook up AC input (through a smart plug) and connect to battery, then by programming the smart plug the unit will charge when the smart plug is powered. Correct? Any settings (besides LiFePo4 charging specs) I should beware of?
Later I may utilize the inverter and passthrough options, also. For now I'm happy with my Victron Solar Controlllers and will not use the EASUNS MPPT controllers. It's actually good value, only as a charger - and I like the rest of the functions to play around with later and to have as backup in case any of my current hardware fails.
@jbjensen11 No problem at all. On this 24V inverter, other than changing the LiFePO4 settings as you’ve said, I've got the Output Source Priority (Menu 01 Option) on the default setting SUB. On the Charger Source Priority (Menu 16 Option) again on the default SNU. I don't currently have solar connected to this 24V setup, but it works fine for grid charging (same as 48V version) using the smart plug as control.
Like you, I'm also looking to find and review another cheap solar inverter (48V this time) to act as a 'cheap rate' charger for another DIY (not battery box) build. They do offer good value, especially when compared to dedicated LiFePO4 chargers!
Can that inverter use lifepo4 batteries
@christiancook6886 Hi Christian, I only use LiFePO4 batteries, so yes. All the best, Adrian
Hallo, i have similar inverter and i can t adjust timing. Do you know how to do it?
@alexandros6335 Hi Alexandros and thanks for your question. When you refer to timing, do you mean on the app? All the best, Adrian
building an ev range extender with this unit. got one on deal from china for 140 usd. 24v, 240v out, ~3kw max.
wondering if I will be able to do pass through charging, so 240v in from the free ev charger, hopefully charging my 8kwh 24v range extender pack, while also outputting up to 3kw for my car? seems to me as long as the evse can supply enough amps, it should allow pass through charging to my car while also charging the range extender. it says max ac input current is 60a = ~14kw, so i would imagine it could do both with pass through? ~12.5a or 3kw for the car, another 60amps *24v=1.5kw for the battery? net is only 4.5kw
@vevenaneathna Thanks for your question. The rated output for this inverter is as you've mentioned. The max AC input is related to the charger 60A @24V which can be increased to 80A @24V when solar and AC charging is combined. I've not setup a direct mains connection for the AC input which specifies the use of a 32A breaker for this model in the manual. In theory it would provide pass-through while battery charging in your setup, but mine is limited to 3kW output due to wiring and the standard plug I use for AC input (battery charging only). I've got no way to test over and above 3kW on AC without a direct connection to a consumer unit. I'm trying to understand how the free EV charging is working for you? Is it a plug-in one? Does the EV charger just supply 240V output? Look forward to hearing more. All the best, Adrian
@@DADvinci ya so the ev charger supplies 240v at the j1772 output. ive seen teslas charging up to ~7kw on the charger so i know its capable, i think about 6.8kw per cord (usually 2 cords per box). i know with my own j1772 evse cord, the car tells the evse that it wants ~3-3.3kw, that message would be handed between the 220v output side of the inverter, into a nema 14-50 (50a rated) plug, into the evse cord, which communicates with the car to do ~3kw.
the j1772 e-bike adapter is what i think is the magic black box. the plug says its rated at 220v at 50amps, but that doesnt seem to match the "12 gauge wire". it only has 2 lives, and a ground wire going into a nema 15-20 (which should nomrally only be 120v, 1 live, 1 neutral 1 ground). i suspect it is wired on the pilot line of the j1772 unit to request up to 20 amps, which would be around 4.8kw. i probably have to set the inverter to have a max charge rate of the battery to be 4.8kw - 3.3kw to the car, to avoid cooking the cables is my current plan. maybe a little bit lower like 16-18 amps total at 220v = ~4.25kw total
or just plug in my battery pack seperatly after my car charges and dont mess around with pass through is probably most safe....
@vevenaneathna Thanks for sharing your setup👍. I wish I had a way to test it, but don't have an EV. I guess it's whether you want to risk it or not. Like your final point, I personally would take the more cautious approach and not use pass-through. Cheers, Adrian
Good video. Can this inverter work without battery and net ac disconected? Only with the fv power to load?
@hevicex Thank you👍. I'm sorry, this inverter doesn't support battery-less operation. All the best, Adrian
Hi, what is his Max. Solar Current?;Max.Power Current Impp(A)? 6.2 kw
@user-pk5lc8rr6c I think I've answered this question on the EASUN 48V inverter for this. Please let me know if you have any other questions. All the best, Adrian
Thanks a lot for that review. I wonder vhy this is 10 times less expansive that Victron's ones. Have you any clues ?
I am right if I say that you can put grid AC IN to load your batteries then display AC CURRENT if PV is not producing ?
@rebelion5051 Thank you! I'm hoping you found it useful. This is a budget model so the internal components will not be as expensive as those used on Victron (premium) inverters. When charging from the grid, you can see the number of amps that are charging the battery by selecting what gets displayed on the front panel. Does that answer your question? All the best, Adrian
Hello, could you please advise if you know regarding charging voltage from solar? I have got easun smh-II-2.2k with lifepo4 12v battery connected and it seems that inverter cannot charge it full, only till 13.5v. Settings are user with bulk and float charge at 14.4v. I also noticed on the side of the unit there's a sticker and it says that AC Charger mode gives only 13.5v DC output. Thanks
@captainpacific6796 Good day and thanks for your question. I've not got the 12V version of this EASUN inverter range, (only 24V & 48V) but I bulk charge at double yours (for 24V) at 28.8V and I set my float to 27.2V (equivalent to 13.6V for your 12V system). Not much point going above this as only a small amount left. When I've tested using the AC charger on my 24V system, I've managed to get it into the 28V range (when setting the float higher) but it's usually the BMS on the battery that stops the charging as one cell hits 3.65V first. Is your battery balanced and it's not the BMS preventing it from going higher? In addition, you should find the solar and/or AC charging disconnects when the voltage gets to target voltage (as per setup) on the inverter or the BMS prevents charging due to high voltage disconnect.
The AC charger spec appears to be a reference voltage (27V for my 24V inverter) as I can set mine higher, but don't see the need personally. All the best, Adrian.
Hi, I’m interested in purchasing this inverter, but didn’t find enough info about if it’s going to work with my 12v battery or I should consider upgrading the battery to 24V?
I saw in the settings that there is an option to select battery voltage - have you tried using the inverter with 12v setup?
@finessefishing3870 Thanks for your question. This is specifically a 24V inverter and wouldn't work with a 12V battery (low voltage DC cut-out on this is 21V). You have a couple of options, get the 12V version of this inverter or upgrade the battery to 24V as you've mentioned. Usually, the higher the voltage an inverter runs at the higher the mains (230V) output in watts (depends on what you need to run), as long as the battery can supply the amps needed by the inverter to run at full-power. Please shout if you have any other questions. All the best, Adrian
@@DADvinci , hey Adrian, thank you so much for your help! So, I ordered the inverter and a 24V battery for it. Currently I’ll use the gas powered generator to charge the battery via the inverter, but I’m planning to get also some solar panels.
Do you think that 2X410W will be enough to charge the battery during the winter (I’m located in northern Greece- should have about 3/4h of sun).
Also, if I understand correctly I should connect the panels is series, so that the inverter will works with them.
Here is the panels data :
(Vmp) - 31.46V
(Imp) - 13.04A
(Voc) - 37.45 (± 3%)
(Isc)-13.85A (± 3%)
@finessefishing3870 No problem at all, glad to help where I can. May I ask what size 24V battery (in Ah) you went for? I guess it will be down to how much you consume when the sun isn't shining (linked to how much battery capacity you have). Winter is always a test in the UK, whereas the bigger the solar panel array the better as the sun is very low on the horizon and doesn't show up for very long. The MPPT solar charging circuit in this 24V inverter has a working voltage range of 55-430Vdc and a max (total) Voc for all panels connected of 450Vdc (important to always remain under the max Voc voltage), not a problem for your proposed setup with two panels.
With the panels you're looking at you'd have to connect in series as the Vmp of 31.46V is too low for the operating range of the MPPT solar circuit range (55-430Vdc), so connecting the two in parallel wouldn't work. In series, this would give you around 62.96V (2 x 31.46V in the best solar conditions = cooler sunny days). If you did have enough room without shade, I'd suggest more panels to ensure you're getting enough to remain in the MPPT range, especially during winter.
If you could let me know about the above questions, as in, battery capacity and your typical daily usage, that might help more, but I'd still suggest more panel(s) if you have unshaded room and budget to do so. Cheers, Adrian
@ , thank you for the information, Adrian!
The battery is 100Ah, but I’m planning on upgrading to 200 during next year.
I have just ordered 3 panels of the mentioned above. Currently the forecast for daily consumption is about 2kWh. Most of which will be during the day with peek about 1.2kW-1.5kW.
I know that the current setup is not optimal, but I’ll use the gas powered generator for this season.
@finessefishing3870 My pleasure👍. Great call on the panels! Your setup is very good to begin with and has the added benefit of being scalable, both with batteries and extra panels (if ever needed). Please let me know if you have any other questions. Take care, Adrian
Hi ,can i put 4 solar panel 600w each on this smh 3.2 ?and if you can give to me full settings ?
@secuadrian5419 Good day! May I ask what the Voc (open-circuit voltage) is for each panel? I assume you want to connect in series and you won't have any problems with shading where they will be installed? All the best, Adrian
Would you be so kind and share the exact name/link of the app working with the thing? On my 12V toy there is no app in the world working :/
@NoiseSHome I'm sorry to hear things aren't working for you. I've added the SmartESS app links to the description (I'm using the Android version). I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
hello! this inverter should be connected to wifi router, or you connect directly smartphone to inverter? thanks
@deneurope8966 Thanks for your question. You use the phone to connect to Wi-Fi as part of the setup process and then once the Wi-Fi dongle can see the Internet (via your router) you then access the inverter using the app (only works while you have an Internet connection on the mobile). I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
Thank you for the video. What "Charger source priority" have you got on i.e, CSO, SNU or OSO. Which one is more efficient. Also for the wifi unit which model should we buy. Do you have a link for it? Cheers.
@SaurabhBohora No problem, I hope the video was useful for you. I use the default option (SNU) on charger default priority, as I'm either charging from solar (with no grid connected) or charging from the grid with no solar connected (for grid battery backup charging). Charging from solar is usually more efficient as the MPPT is already dealing with DC voltage, which is what the batteries are. Charging from mains would always be converting AC to DC voltage, so the losses would be more than direct from solar.
The link is in the description for the model and the one I purchased was the ‘SMH-II-3.2K-Wifi’ version (it can be selected on the product page). I'm not sure why they have changed the image on the main description, but further down you can see the same version that I've got. Might be worth checking with the seller before purchase.
I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
@@DADvinci Thank you so much.
I would like to ask you another question again after last reply. Just wondering if it works without battery in Utility setting in Program 01=UTI, just grid power and solar power (Day and night)? Thank you
@SaurabhBohora This is not a battery-less model I'm afraid. Cheers, Adrian
Sure. Thank you for the reply.
hello can this take a solar panel input of 3000 watts to this inverter ?
@MYMUSICCHANNEL-db4ky Thanks for your question. The solar charger is rated at 3000W (Max charging 80A). The main point to note is not exceeding the Max Solar Voltage (VOC - Open Circuit Voltage) 450VDC. I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
That kettle is 3kw ? I heard you've said that! 6:23
@ferdm9646 Thanks for your question. The kettle is rated between 220-240V AC (2520-3000W). I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
@@DADvinci wow! That's a power hungry cattle you've got.
@ferdm9646 Water (depending on the comparative volume) should take the same amount of energy to boil it. It's how efficient the process of boiling the water is where the differences in energy consumption are. The 3kW is fast boil, hence the rating. I did a video on kettles some time ago (ua-cam.com/video/m_nNhqO1Nmc/v-deo.html) and the comments section covers the amount of energy (kWh) used in my test boiling 1L of water in the kettles I have. The results were surprisingly close.
@@DADvinci that's a very good and informative video indeed. However I'm wondering if it's fair enough to boil the water in a matter of second or wait 1-2 minutes to finish the task. Does this make any difference or efficiency issues with the inverter? Slow boiling and low power boilers are might be a good options cause you don't want your mighty inverter overloaded while you're working something important on your desktop pc! Let it boil slowly while I'm using powers for other important tasks. Maybe it makes sense to me but might not make sense to others. But thank you for your reply
@ferdm9646 Thanks for your kind feedback 👍. I guess it's all about options for what individuals need. I was demonstrating the inverter at close to full load to test if it really goes up to 3kW output as stated in the specs. You're correct that running additional loads while off-grid (with this fast boil kettle) could tip this inverter over the max load and result in a shutdown. I've now got the 48V version of this inverter and it can handle 6.2kW max load, so I run the kettle with other large loads at the same time.
Thank you for a great video! I am interested in the no load power consumption from the battery (clampmeter or shunt?) and also, verey important, the power consumption from the grid wiythout charging the battery from the grid (AC plug with a meter?)
@adrianr2740 Thanks for your kind feedback👍. With the inverter on and no-load the clamp meter measures around 1.3A. With power saving mode on it uses around 0.4A. I didn't get any amps registered on my plug monitor when connected to the grid (not charging the battery). I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
Hi. I have the same model. With battery full, allot of sollar, no load on inverter, it still consume 80w from the grid. This means 700kw every year jusr if you keep it connected to the grid. Very bad design. I took another invertor and I'm using this one as charger.
Later edit: it looks that not all the time it is consuming 80w. I added a smart plug to monitor the standby consumtion from the grid and that 80w peak occure from time to time. So, in the end, it is not that bad.
Without load the consumption is very the voltage of battery is decreasing a lot and the economic mode is working only if the load is up tban 100 w than mean that it is not possible to run a fridge on economic mode🤬🤬
@@draghicicosmin8861 Are you sure? 80W from the grid for what? Just for heating? This would be an absolute no-go! They claim stand-by consumption is 2W on their website!
Hi, i buy same 3.2 easun solar inverter, can i put 6solar panel 380w each whit 49v in open cik tnx
@janitrajkov5280 Good day and thanks for your question. The model specification for my unit has a Max. Solar Voltage (VOC) 450VDC. If your model is exactly the same as mine and based on what you've said for your 6 panels connected in series, it would be 6 x 49V (VOC) = 294V (Total VOC) which is lower than the max of 450VDC, meaning it's within the range of the inverter specs. I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
@@DADvinciwhat is the model/sku number of your hybrid inverter? Is it 110 or 220v? Thanks
@mobro2030 Hey! Thanks for your question. It's the ISolar-SMH-II-3.2K (230V AC) model. Please let me know if you have any other questions. All the best, Adrian
It is such a good price, it makes me suspicious. Have you kept it running with a reasonable load?
@andybiggs4374 Hey Andy! I've tested it for quite a while as my main system. I've since moved on to the 48V for my 30kWh system (only bought the 48V because the 24V worked well and it was also cheap) and neither of these cheap inverters have caused any problems at all, so far. I just use them as if they weren't there, regularly getting the load up high by running major appliances at the same time, while using an induction hob or microwave (48V version) to cook. The 24V is currently being used to charge batteries up when grid energy is cheap or I get paid to use it during negative pricing. I was very sceptical when I first ordered the 24V version as it seemed too good to be true, but so far so good. At the price, it's difficult to justify buying the separate components to charge batteries (via solar or grid) and an inverter to provide mains power, whereas this is in one box. Even if it lasts a few years, it's cheap enough for me to not really worry about. I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
Hi Adrian,
Would you mind giving a description of your set up/ups and how you use them in the real world please?
Kind regards
Tony
no, that's okay
@LRDefender1968 Hey Tony! I usually run an all-in-one system (AC200P) attached to about 600-700 watts of 'moveable' panels in the garden.
The main system, at the moment, is my 24V LiFePO4 shopping cart battery hooked up to my MPP 24V solar inverter, with the 4 x 360W panels (static) in the garden.
I've got my MPP 12V solar station build as backup, which I can charge from the all-in-one or 24V shopping cart system (direct from solar if needed) when things are running low. I give priority to my fridge freezer and only hook-up to the grid for it when everything (including other portable power) is used up. I plan the usage of my washing machine, dishwasher and cooking around the weather where possible.
Things are going to change though, as my 48V battery kit has turned up from China and it's a beast. Depending on tested capacity, it could be a 15kWh (expandable) system which is a game changer for winter and beyond. If I can find a way and installer to connect me up to the grid (correctly), this new battery could be the first step to grid integration, but I'm getting way ahead of the game at the moment.
I hope this helps? Cheers, Adrian
Awesome Adrian!
Thank you Sir 👍🏻
Looking forward to see how you do the change over switch 😳
Can it work without battery connected?
@drpainlesss My unit doesn't work without the battery. Cheers
Tank you for response! What if battery drops below 21v. does inverter going to turn on? Or I will be waiting until it reaches-charges to 23volts to use electricity ? Can I use electricity generated from solar panels if battery is less than 22v?
@drpainlesss Sorry for the delay, I didn't get a notification about your comment so missed it. My inverter doesn't work once it's gone below the low DC cut off (default 21V or user-defined 20V minimum). The batteries (BMSs) I use tend to shut down as well when they hit low voltage to protected themselves. The key is to have the setting high enough on the inverter so that the battery (BMS) doesn't shutdown the battery, so when solar is available again it can recharge. I hope this answers your question. All the best, Adrian
does this inverter work with lifepo4 batteries ?
@triplextriplexxx8225 Thanks for your question. Yes, I only use LiFePO4 batteries with all my builds. All the best, Adrian
@@DADvinci thanks i forgot to ask can it work to return excess energy back to grid like grid tie ?
@triplextriplexxx8225 No problem. I’m afraid not. This inverter can be connected to the grid and used for battery charging/pass-through purposes, but not feed-in like grid-tie inverters. Please shout if you have any other questions. Cheers, Adrian
@@DADvinci thanks alot i found powmr 6.2kw for 350usd it has ability to feed back to grid . When it becomes availoble to feed back to grid i want to have it ready
Yes, you can. The fridge takes up to 1000 watts when it starts, so it will trigger the inverter
@windyse860 Please can you let me know what you are referencing? I'm not sure what you mean. Fridge compressors do draw surge load when starting, but this inverter will handle it and the fans will increase for a short time until the compressor has started-up. Is that what you meant? All the best, Adrian
@@DADvinci once the compressor of the fridge has started the inverter will come off power saving for the duration of the functioning of the compressor. Fridge works fine with inverters that have power saving as long as the pulse the inverter emits has a high frequency. If the pulse is emitted not every second but every 2,3,5 seconds like I saw in several newer inverters such as Victron 12v1000w or Easun smx series or the low frequency RP series, then it might be a problem. I don't know this inverter from this UA-cam video, I never used it, but if the power saving impulse is every second it should be fine with the fridge
So You are saying this is not an MPPT unit?
@dominIKhs Good day! It's definitely a MPPT model (link also in the description). Please can you let me know where you think I mentioned it wasn't in the video? Many thanks, Adrian
Not convinced by the quality of data of these unit vs measured data and returned the unit.
Hello sir , i have a question : is this inverter combines the load output if the solar is not enough ? For example if i have a 1kw solar array and i ask 1.4kw from the inverter will add the rest 400w from the grid or it will cut the panels and switch to grid all the load ?
@ghk84 Thanks for your question. You can change the 'output source priority' (main menu option 01) with the following two options.
Default Option (SUB - Solar Utility Battery)
Solar energy provides power to the loads as first priority. If solar energy is not sufficient to power all connected loads, utility will supply power to the loads at the same time.
Battery provides power to the loads only when any one condition happens:
- Solar energy and utility is not available.
- Solar energy is not sufficient and utility is not available.
2nd Option (SBU - Solar Battery Utility)
Solar energy provides power to the loads as first priority.
If solar energy is not sufficient to power all connected loads, battery energy will supply power to the loads at the same time.
Utility provides power to the loads only when battery voltage drops to either low-level warning voltage or the setting point in main menu option 12.
I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
I am planning to purchase 4.2 kw, would u plz confirm how much inverter support solar pv input current?
Or
Either it supports 550 watt pv panels ( 50 volt and 13 amps each)
Looking forward for your early response plz.
@muhammadyaseen6318 Good day and thanks for your question. This 24V solar inverter (Model - iSolar-SMH-II-3.2K) has Max. Solar Voltage (Voc) 450VDC and the MPPT Voltage range is 55-450VDC. I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
I m not agree with you about the fan. They could be more quiet because they are not linked to the temperature of the cabinet they are working even if the cabinet is in a room at 15 degrees. Also in low charge battery condition the values of current and power are wrong. The economic mode is bad it s not possible to run a fridge in this mode .In normal mode the unit use 40 W to run with 0 load so during the night the battery is discharged.
@arnaudmainil6414 It's fine to disagree with me. I've shared my experience compared with my MPP Solar inverter and the fan control is better on the EASUN (for me) when it comes to input and output load change, I didn't mention about temperature. I agree about the power saving mode (economic mode as you reference) and I don't use it myself due to the pulse method used. I've not had a problem with any of the settings I've used and the battery will discharge while the inverter is on, most inverters have a standby load unless you buy very expensive makes like Victron that have very low consumption when left on all the time. All the best, Adrian
I have issue with this inverter when i switch it off with the side button with only battery attached it keeps switching back on while beeping and then off again and keep repeating this cycle. It worked fine before i had system off fir few months and now it developed this odd behavior. Doeas anyone have idea what could thos be. It still works and provides ac i just cant switch it off manually
@greg23842384 Good day and thanks for your question. Do you have mains or solar attached to the unit to charge the battery? All the best, Adrian
@DADvinci hi Adrian I'm using it purely as inverter and nothing else. I have victron solar controllers to handle battery charging and this inverter is only connected to my battery and no ac input. There is no fault codes as soon as I switch it off the screen dimm a bit and the buzzing sound come then it just start to turn itself on and off all the time. I know that two days ago I unplugged the battery supply but I forgot to turn victron first so my victron instead of feeding the battery start apply power to inverter. I think that could damage sorting internally in the inverter.
Never had this problem before and I put thos inverter into lot of work in the past charging nissan leaf and it was spotless but now I'm experiencing this
@greg23842384 I'm sorry to hear you're having issues and thanks for the additional info. Have you been able to check the inverter settings as I'm wondering if running it with the battery temporarily disconnected managed to reset the core settings? Is the battery itself ok (running at the right voltage) and are you able to test with another battery? I'm hoping the inverter isn't damaged and it's just settings, but it doesn't sound right with the buzzing sound. It does work ok with the inverter switched on? Cheers, Adrian
@@DADvinci i check all settings and everything is same as it was before. Battery is healthy and at the right voltage i must of burn something internally in the inverter
@greg23842384 That's a shame, I'm so sorry to hear that. Can you still use ok when it's switched on?
My EASUNPOWER 8kva inverter arrived damaged 4months ago. NO PV conected but inverter output 60v and no AC output connected and inverter uses 3kva output.
I have claim a return request that is never been accepted. 4 months pass EASUNPOEWR support is not here issue still here at a brand new inverter. Anybody need evidence I have video unpacking and connect to battery only. EASUN very bad company
👍🐝🌞
@jimdaly5077 Cheers Jim😃😊 I hope all is well with you?