I'm a super nerd - this is a great working explanation of V and A in a welding context. I have no idea why your vids don't have massive views, a lot of this stuff is very concise info that all welders should hear, and even many other trades. One thing that should be added, is that OCV is just the voltage when the circuit is open - no arc. Operating voltage is going to drop as you strike an arc, and get closer to the work piece. Long arcing it is going to raise the voltage, because there is more resistance to the flow of all those electrons (amps) - so amps will drop, voltage will raise. Effectively it's like putting your thumb over a hose. Get closer, and your resistance drops, which allows more current flow. Up to the point where your rod sticks, and resistance drops significantly and lets ALL the amps through - making your whole rod glow hot. There are a lot of other dynamics in there, but for the most part, it just doesn't matter. There is the dig, or arc force control, which gives a "current droop" characteristic needed to burn cel rods ... which a generator based machine isn't truly a CC machine, so it does it naturally, but an inverter machine you need circuitry to emulate that or you aren't gonna be burning cel rod, and then there are other types of welding - CV (Constant Voltage) for mig welding for example where voltage mostly serves to stabilize the arc when you're pushing wire in at high speed, with wire speed more or less equating to "amps" at a given wire diameter and feed speed ... but that's a totally different animal from stick and tig (both constant current CC processes).
Welding can be as complicated and technical as you want to make it. The reverse is also true. It can be kept fairly simple. Basically, welding, at the welder's level, is all about machine settings and proper technique for the application. The more info. you have the better, but more knowledge doesn't always make a better welder. Sometimes, the worst drunk in the bar is the best guy to get the job done properly.
Good point I know welder that don't know A lot about the theory and the why but man can they dial in on any machine just by looking at how there Électrode reacts I just actually like to learn about anything to do with welding you don't have to know this to be a welder is what il trying to say 😂
Those are some really good explanations about how voltage and amperage work. Now if you want a really great explanation of how it works and how to set your machines look up Travis Fields or Fieldress on UA-cam. He took the time and mapped it out to explain a lot of how it works on both generator and inverter machines engine driven and electric. Again my friend keep it coming 👍
I remember 25 years ago the Navy taught me hole flow. There's not all that much more I remember about electronics as I changed my job after my first tour but that's not stoppin me from gettin into welding now that I'm retiring soon. Thanks for the great videos! Learnin a lot before trade school.
Great video man, im a welder and book nerd myself and its funny to me that most hands know how to do something but not why they are doing it. Great and easy explanation.
You have a brilliant teaching mind, speaking in terms that most people can understand, I love welding but the amps and volts parts is just making less sense to me physically, these analogies make it so much easier to relate. great video man
That's a great explanation, but I'm still curious about why current is referred to in volts for mig but in amps for stick. Is it a "just because" thing, or is there a specific reason why one is emphasized in each process?
Very thought provoking video. Volts and amps are such poor scientific terms imo. Volts can mean 2 different things, electric potential and electro motive force (emf). Amps is just a bad name. Thanks to your video and another video I saw awhile back by a plumber with a think southern accent, I think I finally have a accurate way to explain volts and amps. Volts is equivalent to pressure(aka electric potential), BEFORE the 'pipe valve' is opened(or when the 'electrode' touches or is close to touching the metal), but when once the pipe is open, the pressure drops to 0, there is 0 or close to 0 pressure once a water valve is opened. I bet the same applies to electric potential which means once the valve is opened volts no longer means pressure, that is when volts means electro motive force, but electro motive force is dependent on flow and size of pipe (or rod). Amps is the speed of the flow and is zero when the valve is not open. In my opinion both terms should be scrapped, and pressure, force, and speed should be used instead. Volume is unlimited when it comes electricity because it comes from the ether, but the useable volume is directly proportional to the pressure. Im kinda riffing but it seems like all of them are proportionally dependent on one another, but it all stems from pressure. I've been thinking about this for years and your video made me a step closer to devising a simpler way to explain electricity, Thanks!
i've never welded but enjoy watching videos about it. one guy said his test of higher voltage made a wider puddle and less penetration because the voltage spead out the heat too much and his point was that travel speed is what influences penetration. So which is it? How to get better penetration? slower and not too much volts so as to not blast the heat diffusing?
Partner, I'm new...and just really need to weld some 2x2x1/8 angle iron. I have a Temu hand stick welder running off of a 20 amp power supply. Will 3/32 6013 work for such small welds? Would appreciate your recommendation. Ty.
Ever mess with higher power factors? Most welders are dropped to 80% to 85% but vintage stuff with higher power percent will weld hard to run rods, but will "bite" you just changing rods, could easily kill if wet or grounded good. I have used, love them, but don't own one. Always keep gloves on, when power is on. Lol.
Most electric welders have a number with a % sign after. This is for safety. But pre-WWII welders had high numbers. For illustration, you ever experiment with rods, and it looks like you can't weld? Like hard surfacing rods, or even a 7018AC try them on vintage unsafe high number and they will "crack" and weld good, go to safe welder, and weld goes to turds. Lol.
I guess you will be looking at spec plates on vintage electric stick welders, always AC only? I have heard some commercial machines may have a higher power factor, but nothing I have personally seen. well asking about Christmas presents? lol, I will take a 1920's wood cabinet welder, that has battery terminal lugs that you use battery cable connectors to connect cables to, but there are 3 different common styles. of these vintage welders, next looks like a R2D2 but most I have seen are rusted bad, & last has vintage plugs where you move cable to different hole. but some of them have low power factor, some high, just remember the 80-85% is for your safety, the 95% can knock you hard or kill you. & If you did find, priced fair, in good shape, I would be interested, unsure how to get it shipped, but been browsing for over a decade for a good one. I just hope my comments doesn't make someone want one that cant have the respect to use, as it can easily kill you. not safe to play with, but a welding "geek" looking for fun new toy, a MAYBE. I did a quick search, hope my link shares, this is one if you zoom in it says power factor of 75%, so this is a safe welder, so you can figure out how old welders have to be to be unsafe, generally pre WWII. www.ebay.com/itm/261553784404?ul_ref=https%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-213727-13078-0%252F2%253Fmpre%253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.com%25252Fitm%25252Flike%25252F261553784404%2526itemid%253D261553784404%2526targetid%253D4580565445261265%2526device%253Dc%2526adtype%253D%257Badtype%257D%2526googleloc%253D%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D301076556%2526adgroupid%253D1231453139370182%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-4580565445261265%2526abcId%253D1129776%2526merchantid%253D51291%2526query%253Dmarquette%252520welders%252520for%252520sale%2526msclkid%253D145b76b1a3491187b0382ab459e50ec0%2526srcrot%253D711-213727-13078-0%2526rvr_id%253D1767930894651%2526rvr_ts%253D775b33c01670ac1c4fe38ed5fffec21e
So, voltage is more for penetration and amps are more for how much filler metal you want to leave behind. Rod thickness is determined by its ability to resist melting too quickly in order to give the welder more control over the arc and resulting puddle. Is that correct?
Hey... I have an offgrid project where I'd like to weld some .375 rebar. My van has a giant 155ah battery and a 2000 watt inverter and while it running i can usually power about 1500 watts ~13a@115v appliances. 14a appliances usually trip my inverter. I've been testing a few really small DC inverter arc/stick welders. A welder that can put out about 150amps is too much power for my van. A welder than can put out 70watts kind of works, but my 6011 3/32 rods stick a lot and I have trouble keeping a puddle or penetrating . Oddly it' behaves very similar at 40a vs 70a. I tried 6011 1/16 rod and they did not work at all, they only stick. I feel I'm very close. Wondering if type of rebar or thickness (.375) of rebar is the issue? Maybe I need to clean them more or go with small rebar? maybe a particular kind of rebar? Anyways, I suspect I'm losing a lot of efficiency going from 12v to 115v and then back to some other DC voltage. Since I've seen people weld with 24v DC on youtube, I wonder what would happen if i just tried to weld using an isolated and 200amp fused 12 to 24 step up DC inverter. like this product from Amazon : "40a 960w step up voltage regulator Module Car power Supply"... I know most are gonna say.. "do not try this at home".. Thanks.
hey bud i have a red d arc d300k and i bought some 8010 5/32s to practice on my down hill fill and cap and like you said my machine is not holding the arc ill be welding for a couple seconds and it’ll lose the arc, the only thing that gets me is that this is a big machine it should be made to hold more than a 5/32 so my question is, is there any way you could increase youre voltage on a machine or is there a way you can tweak something to get better voltage? keep in mind machine is not brand new it has 7000hrs
The fastest way from A to B is a straight line... but... is the fastest way from A to B voltage or amperage??? Amperage takes a thicker wire to move from A to B, and causes more heat in the lines... Question: Can we weld with high voltage and forget about current??? Higher voltage needs less resistance, but is that a good thing??? Probably for tig??? Maybe for stick??? And if it's better, why are we concerned about current??? Seems that current should only be considered at the weld point of resistance at the start of a weld...
lynne lyon as best I understand it, the amperage increases the longer the arc length, not 100% sure what it does to the voltage but I believe it doesn’t change at all with arc length since you are running on Constant Voltage. That’s best I understand it and could be wrong
iam from libya north africa, we have here two types of voltage: 220v and 380v and iam working on aflat cars trailer starting from the wheels bar and up to the end and i only have 220v in my house, can i finsh this work greatly or i will make adisaster on the road some where, and if i have amachine wiht higher amp may be 200amp or more with our 220v ist going to finish the work with out any accident on the road later. ihope you going to answer me so soon.
The voltage won’t affect the safety of your work. What will be the main concern is your welds. As long as you use the right amperage heat for the type and size of welding your doing and using the appropriate amount of weld, you should be good. I can’t say for sure though as I do not know your weld ability.
Since power(watts) = volts x amperage; then how is voltage not tied into 'heat' when you referred to it as being amperage related.. If you think about it, if you have infinitely large wires and the resistance is consequently 0, you would have no voltage (drop) since voltage drop is current x resistance.. So you could have as much current running through a wire as you wanted but the voltage would be # number of amps times 0 ohms; i.e. no voltage drop and no heat produced since power is volts x amps [0v x # number of amps]
Ok I have a question. You mentioned voltage as the force and you said 6010 type rods require higher ocv's. I just got my SA200 back from the shop they replaced the rack with a new one and they set it on the load bank back to speck. But when I go to weld an uphill root with 6010 I'm fighting it to stay on. It doesnt maintain the arc it cut out. What can I do?
Fermin G I believe your running too cold of amperage for that rod if I understand what your problem is properly. Try running at 35 or 40 on your remote or explain a little more what your problem is if I misunderstood
@@Welderbeast yea I cant try going higher. 30 on the remote would be really hot for a 1/8 6010 rod for my machine. It would make the key hole too big. 20 is where it works best if the arc wouldn't die out.. But when it does stay on it runs fine. I feel I might need to tweak the linkage to get more RPM's and maybe it might create more arc force so the rod doesnt go out. I dont know I'm still learning. My machine has been an endless money pit. I'm trying to break out and make my money back on what I've spent on the machine and hopefully find something better. Thank for replying back.
Fermin G cell rod needs high OCV’s as you already talked about and 20 is low OCV’s and amperage. Try second gear at 40-50 on your remote, you’ll achieve the same amperage but be working with higher OCV’s
Stay hungry yet humble!! You're a good teacher. Good information.
I'm a super nerd - this is a great working explanation of V and A in a welding context. I have no idea why your vids don't have massive views, a lot of this stuff is very concise info that all welders should hear, and even many other trades.
One thing that should be added, is that OCV is just the voltage when the circuit is open - no arc. Operating voltage is going to drop as you strike an arc, and get closer to the work piece. Long arcing it is going to raise the voltage, because there is more resistance to the flow of all those electrons (amps) - so amps will drop, voltage will raise. Effectively it's like putting your thumb over a hose. Get closer, and your resistance drops, which allows more current flow. Up to the point where your rod sticks, and resistance drops significantly and lets ALL the amps through - making your whole rod glow hot.
There are a lot of other dynamics in there, but for the most part, it just doesn't matter. There is the dig, or arc force control, which gives a "current droop" characteristic needed to burn cel rods ... which a generator based machine isn't truly a CC machine, so it does it naturally, but an inverter machine you need circuitry to emulate that or you aren't gonna be burning cel rod, and then there are other types of welding - CV (Constant Voltage) for mig welding for example where voltage mostly serves to stabilize the arc when you're pushing wire in at high speed, with wire speed more or less equating to "amps" at a given wire diameter and feed speed ... but that's a totally different animal from stick and tig (both constant current CC processes).
In school right now and was struggling to not just know but understand and this video helped alot thanks
Welding can be as complicated and technical as you want to make it. The reverse is also true. It can be kept fairly simple. Basically, welding, at the welder's level, is all about machine settings and proper technique for the application. The more info. you have the better, but more knowledge doesn't always make a better welder. Sometimes, the worst drunk in the bar is the best guy to get the job done properly.
gord johnson excellent point, my videos are for the welders that want to use knowledge to become better at their job
Good point I know welder that don't know A lot about the theory and the why but man can they dial in on any machine just by looking at how there Électrode reacts I just actually like to learn about anything to do with welding you don't have to know this to be a welder is what il trying to say 😂
Those are some really good explanations about how voltage and amperage work. Now if you want a really great explanation of how it works and how to set your machines look up Travis Fields or Fieldress on UA-cam. He took the time and mapped it out to explain a lot of how it works on both generator and inverter machines engine driven and electric.
Again my friend keep it coming 👍
RCRCustoms thanks and Travis is an animal, I hope to be as knowledgeable as that guy is some day
I remember 25 years ago the Navy taught me hole flow. There's not all that much more I remember about electronics as I changed my job after my first tour but that's not stoppin me from gettin into welding now that I'm retiring soon. Thanks for the great videos! Learnin a lot before trade school.
Great video man, im a welder and book nerd myself and its funny to me that most hands know how to do something but not why they are doing it. Great and easy explanation.
Good video I like the explanations, a lot more easy to understand. Keep posting videos bro.
Thanks and will do!
You have a brilliant teaching mind, speaking in terms that most people can understand, I love welding but the amps and volts parts is just making less sense to me physically, these analogies make it so much easier to relate. great video man
Yours the second video I watch. And big thanks, now I understand how it works.
Glad I could help
u deserve more attention.., prefect explanation
Well explained....Thank you for your time!!
Thanks for watching
That's a great explanation, but I'm still curious about why current is referred to in volts for mig but in amps for stick. Is it a "just because" thing, or is there a specific reason why one is emphasized in each process?
Very thought provoking video. Volts and amps are such poor scientific terms imo. Volts can mean 2 different things, electric potential and electro motive force (emf). Amps is just a bad name. Thanks to your video and another video I saw awhile back by a plumber with a think southern accent, I think I finally have a accurate way to explain volts and amps. Volts is equivalent to pressure(aka electric potential), BEFORE the 'pipe valve' is opened(or when the 'electrode' touches or is close to touching the metal), but when once the pipe is open, the pressure drops to 0, there is 0 or close to 0 pressure once a water valve is opened. I bet the same applies to electric potential which means once the valve is opened volts no longer means pressure, that is when volts means electro motive force, but electro motive force is dependent on flow and size of pipe (or rod). Amps is the speed of the flow and is zero when the valve is not open. In my opinion both terms should be scrapped, and pressure, force, and speed should be used instead. Volume is unlimited when it comes electricity because it comes from the ether, but the useable volume is directly proportional to the pressure. Im kinda riffing but it seems like all of them are proportionally dependent on one another, but it all stems from pressure. I've been thinking about this for years and your video made me a step closer to devising a simpler way to explain electricity, Thanks!
i've never welded but enjoy watching videos about it. one guy said his test of higher voltage made a wider puddle and less penetration because the voltage spead out the heat too much and his point was that travel speed is what influences penetration. So which is it? How to get better penetration? slower and not too much volts so as to not blast the heat diffusing?
Thank you!! Great post!!
Great explanation. This helped
Partner, I'm new...and just really need to weld some 2x2x1/8 angle iron. I have a Temu hand stick welder running off of a 20 amp power supply. Will 3/32 6013 work for such small welds?
Would appreciate your recommendation. Ty.
Preciate it dude!
Explained very well 💯
Ever mess with higher power factors? Most welders are dropped to 80% to 85% but vintage stuff with higher power percent will weld hard to run rods, but will "bite" you just changing rods, could easily kill if wet or grounded good. I have used, love them, but don't own one. Always keep gloves on, when power is on. Lol.
Randy mack I’m not sure what you mean by higher power factors, explain this a little more for me
Most electric welders have a number with a % sign after. This is for safety. But pre-WWII welders had high numbers. For illustration, you ever experiment with rods, and it looks like you can't weld? Like hard surfacing rods, or even a 7018AC try them on vintage unsafe high number and they will "crack" and weld good, go to safe welder, and weld goes to turds. Lol.
Randy mack interesting I did not know that, the only percentages I knew of were the duty cycle percentages
I guess you will be looking at spec plates on vintage electric stick welders, always AC only? I have heard some commercial machines may have a higher power factor, but nothing I have personally seen.
well asking about Christmas presents? lol, I will take a 1920's wood cabinet welder, that has battery terminal lugs that you use battery cable connectors to connect cables to, but there are 3 different common styles. of these vintage welders, next looks like a R2D2 but most I have seen are rusted bad, & last has vintage plugs where you move cable to different hole. but some of them have low power factor, some high, just remember the 80-85% is for your safety, the 95% can knock you hard or kill you. & If you did find, priced fair, in good shape, I would be interested, unsure how to get it shipped, but been browsing for over a decade for a good one.
I just hope my comments doesn't make someone want one that cant have the respect to use, as it can easily kill you. not safe to play with, but a welding "geek" looking for fun new toy, a MAYBE. I did a quick search, hope my link shares, this is one if you zoom in it says power factor of 75%, so this is a safe welder, so you can figure out how old welders have to be to be unsafe, generally pre WWII.
www.ebay.com/itm/261553784404?ul_ref=https%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-213727-13078-0%252F2%253Fmpre%253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.com%25252Fitm%25252Flike%25252F261553784404%2526itemid%253D261553784404%2526targetid%253D4580565445261265%2526device%253Dc%2526adtype%253D%257Badtype%257D%2526googleloc%253D%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D301076556%2526adgroupid%253D1231453139370182%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-4580565445261265%2526abcId%253D1129776%2526merchantid%253D51291%2526query%253Dmarquette%252520welders%252520for%252520sale%2526msclkid%253D145b76b1a3491187b0382ab459e50ec0%2526srcrot%253D711-213727-13078-0%2526rvr_id%253D1767930894651%2526rvr_ts%253D775b33c01670ac1c4fe38ed5fffec21e
Nice
So, voltage is more for penetration and amps are more for how much filler metal you want to leave behind. Rod thickness is determined by its ability to resist melting too quickly in order to give the welder more control over the arc and resulting puddle. Is that correct?
great video thanks:)
Hey... I have an offgrid project where I'd like to weld some .375 rebar. My van has a giant 155ah battery and a 2000 watt inverter and while it running i can usually power about 1500 watts ~13a@115v appliances. 14a appliances usually trip my inverter. I've been testing a few really small DC inverter arc/stick welders. A welder that can put out about 150amps is too much power for my van. A welder than can put out 70watts kind of works, but my 6011 3/32 rods stick a lot and I have trouble keeping a puddle or penetrating . Oddly it' behaves very similar at 40a vs 70a. I tried 6011 1/16 rod and they did not work at all, they only stick. I feel I'm very close. Wondering if type of rebar or thickness (.375) of rebar is the issue? Maybe I need to clean them more or go with small rebar? maybe a particular kind of rebar? Anyways, I suspect I'm losing a lot of efficiency going from 12v to 115v and then back to some other DC voltage. Since I've seen people weld with 24v DC on youtube, I wonder what would happen if i just tried to weld using an isolated and 200amp fused 12 to 24 step up DC inverter. like this product from Amazon : "40a 960w step up voltage regulator Module Car power Supply"... I know most are gonna say.. "do not try this at home".. Thanks.
hey bud i have a red d arc d300k and i bought some 8010 5/32s to practice on my down hill fill and cap and like you said my machine is not holding the arc ill be welding for a couple seconds and it’ll lose the arc, the only thing that gets me is that this is a big machine it should be made to hold more than a 5/32 so my question is, is there any way you could increase youre voltage on a machine or is there a way you can tweak something to get better voltage? keep in mind machine is not brand new it has 7000hrs
What's the closed circuit voltage, it has to be way lower than power circut, right?, wait is the arc considered an open circuit 🤔
ThanKyou Very Much
The fastest way from A to B is a straight line... but... is the fastest way from A to B voltage or amperage???
Amperage takes a thicker wire to move from A to B, and causes more heat in the lines...
Question: Can we weld with high voltage and forget about current???
Higher voltage needs less resistance, but is that a good thing???
Probably for tig???
Maybe for stick???
And if it's better, why are we concerned about current??? Seems that current should only be considered at the weld point of resistance at the start of a weld...
Thanks for the video
Thanks for watching
what books do you recommend?
Lincoln Electrics guide to arc welding I believe it’s called is a very good book to reference
Thank you.
Can you explain how voltage and amperage affect arc length?
I’m not sure I understand the question correctly but arc length is controlled by you depending on how close or far away you hold the rod when welding
@@Welderbeast I probably asked that backwards. Sorry! More like what happens to voltage and amperage as the arc length is increase or decreased?
lynne lyon as best I understand it, the amperage increases the longer the arc length, not 100% sure what it does to the voltage but I believe it doesn’t change at all with arc length since you are running on Constant Voltage. That’s best I understand it and could be wrong
@@Welderbeast Thank you! You have confirmed what I was thinking.
iam from libya north africa, we have here two types of voltage: 220v and 380v and iam working on aflat cars trailer starting from the wheels bar and up to the end and i only have 220v in my house, can i finsh this work greatly or i will make adisaster on the road some where, and if i have amachine wiht higher amp may be 200amp or more with our 220v ist going to finish the work with out any accident on the road later. ihope you going to answer me so soon.
The voltage won’t affect the safety of your work. What will be the main concern is your welds. As long as you use the right amperage heat for the type and size of welding your doing and using the appropriate amount of weld, you should be good. I can’t say for sure though as I do not know your weld ability.
@@Welderbeast thank you, i appreciate your answer.
What’s about MIG?
Since power(watts) = volts x amperage; then how is voltage not tied into 'heat' when you referred to it as being amperage related.. If you think about it, if you have infinitely large wires and the resistance is consequently 0, you would have no voltage (drop) since voltage drop is current x resistance.. So you could have as much current running through a wire as you wanted but the voltage would be # number of amps times 0 ohms; i.e. no voltage drop and no heat produced since power is volts x amps [0v x # number of amps]
OCV is when the machine is running but NOT welding. CCV is when you are actually welding
Thanks for correcting me, I'm still learning every day!
Ok I have a question. You mentioned voltage as the force and you said 6010 type rods require higher ocv's. I just got my SA200 back from the shop they replaced the rack with a new one and they set it on the load bank back to speck. But when I go to weld an uphill root with 6010 I'm fighting it to stay on. It doesnt maintain the arc it cut out. What can I do?
What gear are you running in and what setting on the fine current control are you set at?
@@Welderbeast 3rd gear, the fine on the machine is down to the 100. And 20 on my remote
Fermin G I believe your running too cold of amperage for that rod if I understand what your problem is properly. Try running at 35 or 40 on your remote or explain a little more what your problem is if I misunderstood
@@Welderbeast yea I cant try going higher. 30 on the remote would be really hot for a 1/8 6010 rod for my machine. It would make the key hole too big. 20 is where it works best if the arc wouldn't die out.. But when it does stay on it runs fine. I feel I might need to tweak the linkage to get more RPM's and maybe it might create more arc force so the rod doesnt go out. I dont know I'm still learning. My machine has been an endless money pit. I'm trying to break out and make my money back on what I've spent on the machine and hopefully find something better. Thank for replying back.
Fermin G cell rod needs high OCV’s as you already talked about and 20 is low OCV’s and amperage. Try second gear at 40-50 on your remote, you’ll achieve the same amperage but be working with higher OCV’s
i like to see
Volt or E is electromotive FORCE
Amp or I is INTENSITY
this was verry verry difecult for me to understand
With a welder can start building a sports bike garage
Guys watch a an electrician video everytime it's a welder explaining they contradict not saying this vid is right or wrong but how do you know 😂