Thank you for this video. The tractor IH844S with 268 engine runs like a new one. Only difference was the timing pointer you line up with the timing marks. On this tractor it is at the 12 o'clock position. All other markings exactly the same.
Thank you for this video...I do appreciate it. I have an older 75 International Industrial 3400A with a D179 and although it runs like a dream after you get her going, she always take a short squirt of ether to get her started..I am learning daily about how to keep her going, and thanks to you (and because both yours and mine are supprisingly so much alike) I'll keep coming back and checking on your progress...Again Thank You..
If this has the old style Bosch pump, that speeds up as you pull the fuel shut off down, there is a cold starting procedure that helps. ( I don't remember the old pumps number, the one that is prior to the VE ) Bring the throttle up about 1/4" , push the fuel shut off lever all the way up then bring is down about a quarter of the way ( 2 " or so ), crank engine. Pulling the fuel shutoff lever down on these pumps adds what is called " excess fuel " to aid in starting, kind of like a choke on a gas engine. What happens is some of the excess fuel remains liquid and artificially raises the compression ratio giving a bit more heat of compression. Once the engine starts, you can move the fuel shut up and down a bit to adjust idle then move it all the way up and adjust cold idle with the throttle lever.
If this has the old style Bosch pump, that speeds up as you pull the fuel shot off down, there is a cold starting procedure that helps. ( I don't remember the old pumps number, the one that is prior to the VE ) Bring the throttle up about 1/4" , push the fuel shut off lever all the way up then bring is down about a quarter of the way ( 2 " or so ), crank engine. Pulling the fuel shutoff lever down on these pumps adds what is called " excess fuel " to aid in starting, kind of like a choke on a gas engine. What happens is some of the excess fuel remains liquid and artificially raises the compression ratio giving a bit more heat of compression. Once the engine starts, you can move the fuel shut up and down a bit to adjust idle then move it all the way up and adjust cold idle with the throttle lever.
@@73DiamondReo Try pulling it down less. The excess fuel mech only has a limited range, you might be going past where it takes effect. With the engine running, slowly pull the fuel shut off down to get a sense of where the engine speeds up then use that setting for cold start.
@@bobroberts2371 fuel shut off is electric. it starts up in a revolution or two. I have to pull the pump off now anyway because its leaking externally. Its been a few years since this video was made
thanks. your static timing mark would be different and probably the number on the pump gear. I still have to adjust the valves hot but i wasn't pulling the cover off in the rain. I did get the one loader bucket cylinder repacked and will have a video of that also.
Thanks for the video!! Very informative and easy to follow. Any ideas on one that starts and idles fine but when throttled up the motor lopes? And then under load when using the hoe it gets worse. Any advice would be appreciated thanks
Thanks! I have done the filters and even drained all the old fuel since I had no idea how old or if it would matter. I do not notice any leaks. I believe it is the fuel system but am at a loss figuring it out. Even treated for algae in case that was the issue.
@@Rico-m9s unless its sucking air in somewhere id have to lean towards the injection pump. i believe you can remove the cover on the side of the pump and make an adapter to put a gauge. check charge pump pressure and might help narrow it down.
Very informative. That old girl is a cold blooded International and came with an ether assist built in, though I'm not a big fan of ether. By the way, who the heck keeps popping off rounds in the background? Sounds like a firing range. Keep up the good work, sir.
Exactly my D179 on IH 2400 backhoe. I appreciate the insight on this since I'm trying to revive a machine that has been dormant for 5 years. My Dad passed away and left it to me. Do you know of any videos or written instructions on priming the fuel system? I have the service manual but it doesn't cover it. The user or operator's manual I have not been able to find in print or digital.
When priming any fuel system start from the tank to the fuel filters then inlet of injection pump then injector lines. Does you machine have an electric or manual lift pump? Did you do some work to it that you think the system needs to be bled? for starting make sure the throttle is set half way on these engines. Engine may also be tired and just need a sniff of either too
@@73DiamondReo It's a 2 filter system and I started there changing both filters. There was no fuel in either glass bowl. Removed, cleaned thoroughly and put new filters in. I'm getting fuel coming out the bleed screw at the top of the first filter but the bowl is not filling with fuel. Filter 1 is on the right side and then a fuel line wraps around the front of the engine to filter 2 on the other side of the tractor. Filter 2 is adjacent to the injector pump. Any ideas appreciated.
@@tailgatetalk Did you pre fill the filters with diesel before installing them if possible? Tighten bleed screw on filter one and open bleed screw on filter two. electric or mechanical lift pump? If its electric it should prime second filter. if it has a mechanical lift pump. there should be a lever or plunger on it that you can use to prime the system. On some difficult gravity fed systems without a lift pump ive had to put 1 or 2 psi on the fuel tank to get fuel to the injection pump but this is a rare case.
@@73DiamondReo I really didn't see a way possible to prefill the filters. There's a rod with bottom bleed screw running through the entire assembly, a glass bowl about 1 inch deep and the filter (which has no housing). All sandwiched together with a nut on the housing top. Am I missing something? Should I be able to fill them after assembled and on the tractor? I did pressurize the tank a little, that's how I finally got fuel coming out at the incoming connection point of filter 1. I'm also getting fuel with no bubbles coming out of the bleeder screw of filter 1. Again, no fuel going into filter. Bowl empty. There is neither an electric nor a mechanical lift pump. I probably have 10 gallons in the tank putting the fuel level well above both filters. Do you think maybe I just haven't turned it over enough times to pressurize the system? My battery is weak and I've got jumpers to my truck which gives me about 5-7 seconds worth of the engine turning over. I know this beast was running when Dad parked it but I do know the injector pump leaked some. He complained about it but it still ran.
@@tailgatetalk ah i see. Id disassemble the filter. is it possible to put in upside down? You should have had fuel in the bowl almost immediately. I wouldn't try to start it until you have fuel all the way to the injection pump.
I have a client with a 686 tractor (Australia) and just want to ensure the 16 deg BTDC is correct for his engine. He is complaining of low power and starting difficulty which appears common looking at other comments. He has a pump off another engine that was apperantly running well so wants to try it. How do I confirm what deg BTDC is correct for his engine?
@@andrewjones1471 it depends on what style pump is on it 14*BTDC on BR pumps and 16*BTDC on CR pumps. i Don't have a listing for 686. only 684. you should be using mark #4 on the timing gear
If this has the old style Bosch pump, that speeds up as you pull the fuel shut off down, there is a cold starting procedure that helps. ( I don't remember the old pumps number, the one that is prior to the VE ) Bring the throttle up about 1/4" , push the fuel shut off lever all the way up then bring is down about a quarter of the way ( 2 " or so ), crank engine. Pulling the fuel shutoff lever down on these pumps adds what is called " excess fuel " to aid in starting, kind of like a choke on a gas engine. What happens is some of the excess fuel remains liquid and artificially raises the compression ratio giving a bit more heat of compression. Once the engine starts, you can move the fuel shut up and down a bit to adjust idle then move it all the way up and adjust cold idle with the throttle lever.
@@73DiamondReo also do you have video where you do the timing with dial indicator? I had to get a mefin/ delphi injector pump and the timing window only has letters on the roller ring instead of pointer and scribe line! Thank you for your help love your videos!
@@73DiamondReo i have an cav injector pump with the timing window and the gear inside is mark with letters “ABCEDFGH” do you know what letter to line up with?
Thank you for this video. The tractor IH844S with 268 engine runs like a new one. Only difference was the timing pointer you line up with the timing marks. On this tractor it is at the 12 o'clock position. All other markings exactly the same.
Glad it helped
Thank you for this video...I do appreciate it.
I have an older 75 International Industrial 3400A with a D179 and although it runs like a dream after you get her going, she always take a short squirt of ether to get her started..I am learning daily about how to keep her going, and thanks to you (and because both yours and mine are supprisingly so much alike) I'll keep coming back and checking on your progress...Again Thank You..
If this has the old style Bosch pump, that speeds up as you pull the fuel shut off down, there is a cold starting procedure that helps. ( I don't remember the old pumps number, the one that is prior to the VE ) Bring the throttle up about 1/4" , push the fuel shut off lever all the way up then bring is down about a quarter of the way ( 2 " or so ), crank engine. Pulling the fuel shutoff lever down on these pumps adds what is called " excess fuel " to aid in starting, kind of like a choke on a gas engine. What happens is some of the excess fuel remains liquid and artificially raises the compression ratio giving a bit more heat of compression. Once the engine starts, you can move the fuel shut up and down a bit to adjust idle then move it all the way up and adjust cold idle with the throttle lever.
Thanks so much for the video I have a IH 2400 backhoe with a D179 engine and have been looking for this video for months.
If this has the old style Bosch pump, that speeds up as you pull the fuel shot off down, there is a cold starting procedure that helps. ( I don't remember the old pumps number, the one that is prior to the VE ) Bring the throttle up about 1/4" , push the fuel shut off lever all the way up then bring is down about a quarter of the way ( 2 " or so ), crank engine. Pulling the fuel shutoff lever down on these pumps adds what is called " excess fuel " to aid in starting, kind of like a choke on a gas engine. What happens is some of the excess fuel remains liquid and artificially raises the compression ratio giving a bit more heat of compression. Once the engine starts, you can move the fuel shut up and down a bit to adjust idle then move it all the way up and adjust cold idle with the throttle lever.
this is the CR pump. i move the fuel lever up to full then half way to cold start
@@73DiamondReo Try pulling it down less. The excess fuel mech only has a limited range, you might be going past where it takes effect. With the engine running, slowly pull the fuel shut off down to get a sense of where the engine speeds up then use that setting for cold start.
@@bobroberts2371 fuel shut off is electric. it starts up in a revolution or two. I have to pull the pump off now anyway because its leaking externally. Its been a few years since this video was made
I think my engine is the 239. A little different. Good job on the fine tuning. It sounds great
thanks. your static timing mark would be different and probably the number on the pump gear. I still have to adjust the valves hot but i wasn't pulling the cover off in the rain. I did get the one loader bucket cylinder repacked and will have a video of that also.
What is the number for the pump gear on the 239?
Thanks for the video!! Very informative and easy to follow. Any ideas on one that starts and idles fine but when throttled up the motor lopes? And then under load when using the hoe it gets worse. Any advice would be appreciated thanks
have you done your fuel filters and checked for something restricting the flow from the fuel tank? any fuel leaks?
Thanks! I have done the filters and even drained all the old fuel since I had no idea how old or if it would matter. I do not notice any leaks. I believe it is the fuel system but am at a loss figuring it out. Even treated for algae in case that was the issue.
@@Rico-m9s unless its sucking air in somewhere id have to lean towards the injection pump. i believe you can remove the cover on the side of the pump and make an adapter to put a gauge. check charge pump pressure and might help narrow it down.
73DiamondReo will do. Thank you for your help
Very informative. That old girl is a cold blooded International and came with an ether assist built in, though I'm not a big fan of ether. By the way, who the heck keeps popping off rounds in the background? Sounds like a firing range. Keep up the good work, sir.
Stump Piler gun club is a half mile away.
Sounds like my place opening day of deer season.
Exactly my D179 on IH 2400 backhoe. I appreciate the insight on this since I'm trying to revive a machine that has been dormant for 5 years. My Dad passed away and left it to me. Do you know of any videos or written instructions on priming the fuel system? I have the service manual but it doesn't cover it. The user or operator's manual I have not been able to find in print or digital.
When priming any fuel system start from the tank to the fuel filters then inlet of injection pump then injector lines. Does you machine have an electric or manual lift pump? Did you do some work to it that you think the system needs to be bled? for starting make sure the throttle is set half way on these engines. Engine may also be tired and just need a sniff of either too
@@73DiamondReo It's a 2 filter system and I started there changing both filters. There was no fuel in either glass bowl. Removed, cleaned thoroughly and put new filters in. I'm getting fuel coming out the bleed screw at the top of the first filter but the bowl is not filling with fuel. Filter 1 is on the right side and then a fuel line wraps around the front of the engine to filter 2 on the other side of the tractor. Filter 2 is adjacent to the injector pump. Any ideas appreciated.
@@tailgatetalk Did you pre fill the filters with diesel before installing them if possible? Tighten bleed screw on filter one and open bleed screw on filter two. electric or mechanical lift pump? If its electric it should prime second filter. if it has a mechanical lift pump. there should be a lever or plunger on it that you can use to prime the system. On some difficult gravity fed systems without a lift pump ive had to put 1 or 2 psi on the fuel tank to get fuel to the injection pump but this is a rare case.
@@73DiamondReo I really didn't see a way possible to prefill the filters. There's a rod with bottom bleed screw running through the entire assembly, a glass bowl about 1 inch deep and the filter (which has no housing). All sandwiched together with a nut on the housing top. Am I missing something? Should I be able to fill them after assembled and on the tractor? I did pressurize the tank a little, that's how I finally got fuel coming out at the incoming connection point of filter 1. I'm also getting fuel with no bubbles coming out of the bleeder screw of filter 1. Again, no fuel going into filter. Bowl empty. There is neither an electric nor a mechanical lift pump. I probably have 10 gallons in the tank putting the fuel level well above both filters. Do you think maybe I just haven't turned it over enough times to pressurize the system? My battery is weak and I've got jumpers to my truck which gives me about 5-7 seconds worth of the engine turning over. I know this beast was running when Dad parked it but I do know the injector pump leaked some. He complained about it but it still ran.
@@tailgatetalk ah i see. Id disassemble the filter. is it possible to put in upside down? You should have had fuel in the bowl almost immediately. I wouldn't try to start it until you have fuel all the way to the injection pump.
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I have a client with a 686 tractor (Australia) and just want to ensure the 16 deg BTDC is correct for his engine. He is complaining of low power and starting difficulty which appears common looking at other comments. He has a pump off another engine that was apperantly running well so wants to try it. How do I confirm what deg BTDC is correct for his engine?
you'll have to check the engine manual. ill look tomorrow and see if i have anything to help you out
@@73DiamondReo Cheers mate. I don’t have a manual so would appreciate that.
@@andrewjones1471 it depends on what style pump is on it 14*BTDC on BR pumps and 16*BTDC on CR pumps. i Don't have a listing for 686. only 684. you should be using mark #4 on the timing gear
Nice video! Is that engine direct injection? Starts better than my KW!
yes its direct injection. I don't know about that. they might be neck and neck
Hey I used to start mine like that now I just give it a little shot of ether and it starts right up keep burning the starters out to much
If this has the old style Bosch pump, that speeds up as you pull the fuel shut off down, there is a cold starting procedure that helps. ( I don't remember the old pumps number, the one that is prior to the VE ) Bring the throttle up about 1/4" , push the fuel shut off lever all the way up then bring is down about a quarter of the way ( 2 " or so ), crank engine. Pulling the fuel shutoff lever down on these pumps adds what is called " excess fuel " to aid in starting, kind of like a choke on a gas engine. What happens is some of the excess fuel remains liquid and artificially raises the compression ratio giving a bit more heat of compression. Once the engine starts, you can move the fuel shut up and down a bit to adjust idle then move it all the way up and adjust cold idle with the throttle lever.
D239 do you know the pump gear number
give me a day or two and ill look it up
@@73DiamondReo also do you have video where you do the timing with dial indicator? I had to get a mefin/ delphi injector pump and the timing window only has letters on the roller ring instead of pointer and scribe line!
Thank you for your help love your videos!
@@stevenfaulkner395 gear number should also be a 4 for a D239. I do not have a video on the dial indicator method
@@73DiamondReo i have an cav injector pump with the timing window and the gear inside is mark with letters “ABCEDFGH” do you know what letter to line up with?