Great episode Todd. Don't scrimp on the brakes, renew the lot my friend if you can. When I rebuilt a 74 VW camper van I bought as a project I renewed the entire braking system even travelling far afield to purchase a pair of brand new original front brake calipers and discs which were like gold dust at the time. The brake lines I made myself and we're pretty easy to do. Sourcing new rear brake cylinders was easy too, I even managed to find and renew gear lever linkage bushings and seals Luckily for me the camper van wasn't rotten underneath and I simply ended wire brushing the complete underneath before deciding to hammerite it with a coat of black hammer finish. I preferred that over black underseal. I also renewed the wheel bearimgs. The hardest part to obtain was it's elevated roof bellows as this was completely rotten. I eventually had that made. I even put a fresh water tank underneath for running water supply, I also installed an electric supply too. I really spent a small fortune refurbishing/rebuilding that vehicle into like a small RV for camping use. I then soon realised how expensive it was to take on such a project but I had to keep going! I was very lucky with its engine, it was perfect and didn't require anything other than a service and oil change but I replaced the carburettor with new and replaced the fuel lines. The interior I had made at a VW camper specialist near Chessington Surrey if I recall correctly. I really did get an extreme amount of joy rebuilding that Camper as I am sure you are with the project 928 Porsche. Needless to say after completing the VW camper I decided to move to something smaller and easier to repair and I began purchasing accident damaged heavy motorcycles from a source belonging to an insurance company. I became friendly with a guy/owner of a newly opened motorcycle parts business based in Kilburn london (Dave Silver). He'd purchase shipping containers from Japan with new motorcycle parts of all Japanese motorcycles, he didn't really know what parts were inside the containers. I remember purchasing a red and virtually new Honda FB750 Sport from an insurance company contact, no keys non runner and with a completely destroyed front end, buckled front comstar wheel and its clutch side casing had a huge hole in it. The best part for me was stripping down the motircycle in my garage. My goal was to get all damaged parts off and get the bike started. However I had to get the clutch housing cover first from a well known Honda dealer in Clapham london as they were the only dealership with this part. Anyway, fitting the clutch housing was easy, as the entire front end was off it was relatively easy to start it without keys as it's ignition had also been destroyed on impact. Hearing it fire up for the first time was a joy, its engine was perfect and in VGC. That motorcycle was rebuilt with new parts purchased from Dave Silver motorcycle parts based in kilburn. I recall paying £110 for 2 brand new front forks which were a bargain at the time. The comstar wheel I took to a buisness near Byfleet Surrey who straightend the front wheel for £45 if I recall correctly. The wheel to purchase new was costly so having it straightened was a better solution. Anyway enough of me waffling on down memory lane, watching you hard at back there really brings back some good memories and I love you build Todd. Love and respect from Taiwan, stay safe.
Hi Terry - that seems to be the moto of my. car! Ok - it looks like im renewing the brake lines anyway, will investigate the brake ms. Thanks as ever :)
@@MrToddgibbs I also rebuilt a mini from scratch. Deseamed the bodywork, made a 4 headlight conversion for it and placed an oval window where its original rear screen once was. That was a tuff task to complete. By the time I completed the car it looked like a factory wood and Picket conversion but better. I built up a full race 1380cc engine with headers linked to a side exit RC40 full exhaust system. Great times Todd
Wow Terry, that does not sound like a small project! Im sat here, early Saturday morning, coffee in hand, debating grinding out the under-seal in the wheel arches ... wish me luck!
@@MrToddgibbs it wasn't a small project to be honest BUT great fun. I remember having a mechanic tune it as I opted for using twin weber carbs that I purchased from the mini spares centre in Putney. Griding out the underseal from the wheel arches isn't going to be pleasant, been there, seen it, done it. I used a rotary wire brush attachment for an electric drill. Once you get the underseal starting to come off its pretty much down hill, sadly its messy as the underseal flies everywhere, so safety glasses, mask and a hat are a good idea. Good luck with that Todd.
Those Hard lines from Porsche are INCREDIBLY EXPENSIVE...save them at all costs if possible. Some are NLA. The last time I checked the Long front Passenger side was over $700 US . Take your time and work them loose. Heat, flare wrench on the solid nut and "crows foot" on as long a ratchet as you can find and work them loose. Just did Transmission lines that were SOLID...wrap a towel in Solvent of choice and let them sit for a day or two. The Aluminum Hubs are fine raw.
@@MrToddgibbs Did you video making the bends and the process? the long lines are incredibly complex. Would be interesting to see how you managed it. TY
Hey Todd, Definitely replace the brake lines. Never cut them and then reuse them. Flaring tools are handy to have in the garage kit and making your own lines is rewarding. I did cringe when you were removing the reservoir for the master cylinder...with fluid still in it...we live and learn. Rebuild the master cylinder, kits aren't too expensive and they are relatively straight forward. Paint (powder coat) anything that was rusted before removal, for they will only rust again. I would leave the hubs raw alloy and the bearings have replaced by the shop...small cost, but much less headache. Great work bud, keep it up. Marc
Hi Marc, Yes, I was expected many more comments about the brake fluid.... still, it washed the engine bay nicely :) New brake lines seems a must. Thanks for the advice :)
Hi Todd, maybe it is the best way to grind the undercoating in the wheelhouses to see if its rusty underneath. Some coatings don't dry properly so rust can grow unseen. The point where wing and body meet can corrode as well. The undercoating seems to be new to make it look nice,but usually people try to hide sth. Fingers crossed underneath that its just bare metal. I would recommend to try to grind it to bare metal at some spots.can agree with Mr.Miller referring to your questions. Good work thx for sharing!
Hi Todd. I received this week the rebuild kit for my brake master cylinder. They are not that expensive and I think it should be done. Also, the rebuild kits for the brake callipers are cheap. If you want I can send you the references I've bought. About the wheel hubs, I have the same doubt. I was thinking of powder coat the back part and leave the face in raw aluminium, just because I believe that if I let them all in raw aluminium they will be covered in brake dust in no time and it will be extremely hard to clean. I am planning to powder coat my first brake calliper today. It will all be done in house. I will share the video later, maybe something for you to consider also due to the number of parts you are powder coating. I chose to get a small sandblast cabinet (check in my vídeos, there is a vídeo about that) and a powder coating set. I've done a lot of small parts already for my track car and for my bikes. The next investment I am thinking of is a shop press. I am divided between a 10Ton and a 20Ton press. Keep up with the rebuilt. We want to see the next video.
Hi, Where did you get the master cylinder rebuild kit from and what part number? Im going to leave the hubs raw metal, but I will spray the callipers in UHT paint, not sure powder coating is ok? Now you got me hunting for a press! :)
Replace all of the brake line's with new or like you stated original Porsh parts. or as part of the program build a new brake line system. I think you should also replace the hole of the car's wiring loom, but that's another prog.
I would either put the master cylinder back or replace it. It's about £250 for a new one. Not outrageous but it all adds up. I hear that they're a pig to replace if the engine is back in. If the lines are not 100% then replace them. Kunifer pipe and the fittings are cheap. Don't scrimp on a flaring tool. Cheap eBay ones are horrible to use. One more thing - is the brake servo ok? Again... a horrible job with the engine in place.
@@MrToddgibbs Hmmm... you don't mess with brakes. The servo needs to hold vacuum. So, if you have a vacuum pump you can check that. I can't think of anything else. I would definitely replace all the seals and pistons in the calipers. Once you've got it all back together you can test it and see if the master cylinder holds pressure. But, given the car's history, I might want to just spend the money on that to be sure.
The inside of the master cylinder should be pristine...I'd replace at this point...brakes aren't something you scrimp on. I'd agree check and vacuum check the booster and other parts of the system. You 100% don't want to replace that with the motor in at this point...it's critical. I was jumping up and down with all that brake fluid glugging out...that is the most pernicious fluid in the car...always suck out as much as you can and have a boat load of towels sliver everything and a hose ready to flush with water if you spill. Ruins and stains everything...especially paint!!! Score! On the shocks. Are they the Koni internally adjustable? If yes I'll find a sheet on baseline adjustments and send link. Best upgrade value from the BOGE and not too stiff like some other aftermarket shock/spring options.
hey @drBlast - thanks for comment! Yes, sand does seem a little aggressive. What specifically does it do to ruin them though? It appears to have just taken off the dirt/corrosion
@@MrToddgibbs well the hub and A Arm may be structurally sound but the appearance now is horrendous. Feel free to look at my videos and notice the profile of my blasting of aluminum components, you may never sandblast aluminum items like you did the A Arm and Hub again.
Will do, thanks! They are quite 'raw' now and I considered clear lacquering them to avoid dirt getting in the rough surface - is that a good idea or just leave them as is? Appreciate your input :)
Ah I see. I doubt I can get into all the corners/holes. I see what you mean though - it should be like my smooth intake runners. I’ll experiment a bit - thanks!
Great episode Todd.
Don't scrimp on the brakes, renew the lot my friend if you can.
When I rebuilt a 74 VW camper van I bought as a project I renewed the entire braking system even travelling far afield to purchase a pair of brand new original front brake calipers and discs which were like gold dust at the time.
The brake lines I made myself and we're pretty easy to do. Sourcing new rear brake cylinders was easy too, I even managed to find and renew gear lever linkage bushings and seals
Luckily for me the camper van wasn't rotten underneath and I simply ended wire brushing the complete underneath before deciding to hammerite it with a coat of black hammer finish. I preferred that over black underseal.
I also renewed the wheel bearimgs.
The hardest part to obtain was it's elevated roof bellows as this was completely rotten. I eventually had that made.
I even put a fresh water tank underneath for running water supply, I also installed an electric supply too. I really spent a small fortune refurbishing/rebuilding that vehicle into like a small RV for camping use. I then soon realised how expensive it was to take on such a project but I had to keep going!
I was very lucky with its engine, it was perfect and didn't require anything other than a service and oil change but I replaced the carburettor with new and replaced the fuel lines.
The interior I had made at a VW camper specialist near Chessington Surrey if I recall correctly.
I really did get an extreme amount of joy rebuilding that Camper as I am sure you are with the project 928 Porsche.
Needless to say after completing the VW camper I decided to move to something smaller and easier to repair and I began purchasing accident damaged heavy motorcycles from a source belonging to an insurance company.
I became friendly with a guy/owner of a newly opened motorcycle parts business based in Kilburn london (Dave Silver).
He'd purchase shipping containers from Japan with new motorcycle parts of all Japanese motorcycles, he didn't really know what parts were inside the containers.
I remember purchasing a red and virtually new Honda FB750 Sport from an insurance company contact, no keys non runner and with a completely destroyed front end, buckled front comstar wheel and its clutch side casing had a huge hole in it.
The best part for me was stripping down the motircycle in my garage. My goal was to get all damaged parts off and get the bike started.
However I had to get the clutch housing cover first from a well known Honda dealer in Clapham london as they were the only dealership with this part.
Anyway, fitting the clutch housing was easy, as the entire front end was off it was relatively easy to start it without keys as it's ignition had also been destroyed on impact.
Hearing it fire up for the first time was a joy, its engine was perfect and in VGC.
That motorcycle was rebuilt with new parts purchased from Dave Silver motorcycle parts based in kilburn.
I recall paying £110 for 2 brand new front forks which were a bargain at the time.
The comstar wheel I took to a buisness near Byfleet Surrey who straightend the front wheel for £45 if I recall correctly. The wheel to purchase new was costly so having it straightened was a better solution.
Anyway enough of me waffling on down memory lane, watching you hard at back there really brings back some good memories and I love you build Todd.
Love and respect from Taiwan, stay safe.
Hi Terry - that seems to be the moto of my. car! Ok - it looks like im renewing the brake lines anyway, will investigate the brake ms. Thanks as ever :)
And thanks for the memories - its so nice to hear previous experiences and battles :)
@@MrToddgibbs I also rebuilt a mini from scratch.
Deseamed the bodywork, made a 4 headlight conversion for it and placed an oval window where its original rear screen once was. That was a tuff task to complete.
By the time I completed the car it looked like a factory wood and Picket conversion but better.
I built up a full race 1380cc engine with headers linked to a side exit RC40 full exhaust system.
Great times Todd
Wow Terry, that does not sound like a small project!
Im sat here, early Saturday morning, coffee in hand, debating grinding out the under-seal in the wheel arches ... wish me luck!
@@MrToddgibbs it wasn't a small project to be honest BUT great fun. I remember having a mechanic tune it as I opted for using twin weber carbs that I purchased from the mini spares centre in Putney.
Griding out the underseal from the wheel arches isn't going to be pleasant, been there, seen it, done it.
I used a rotary wire brush attachment for an electric drill.
Once you get the underseal starting to come off its pretty much down hill, sadly its messy as the underseal flies everywhere, so safety glasses, mask and a hat are a good idea.
Good luck with that Todd.
Those Hard lines from Porsche are INCREDIBLY EXPENSIVE...save them at all costs if possible. Some are NLA. The last time I checked the Long front Passenger side was over $700 US . Take your time and work them loose. Heat, flare wrench on the solid nut and "crows foot" on as long a ratchet as you can find and work them loose. Just did Transmission lines that were SOLID...wrap a towel in Solvent of choice and let them sit for a day or two.
The Aluminum Hubs are fine raw.
Thanks for the message Dan. I replaced everything, Porsche are expensive but you can get the same materials for a fraction of the cost :)
@@MrToddgibbs Did you video making the bends and the process? the long lines are incredibly complex. Would be interesting to see how you managed it. TY
@@Dundertaker1 yes it’s all on UA-cam
Hey Todd, Definitely replace the brake lines. Never cut them and then reuse them. Flaring tools are handy to have in the garage kit and making your own lines is rewarding. I did cringe when you were removing the reservoir for the master cylinder...with fluid still in it...we live and learn. Rebuild the master cylinder, kits aren't too expensive and they are relatively straight forward.
Paint (powder coat) anything that was rusted before removal, for they will only rust again. I would leave the hubs raw alloy and the bearings have replaced by the shop...small cost, but much less headache. Great work bud, keep it up. Marc
Hi Marc, Yes, I was expected many more comments about the brake fluid.... still, it washed the engine bay nicely :) New brake lines seems a must. Thanks for the advice :)
Hi Todd, maybe it is the best way to grind the undercoating in the wheelhouses to see if its rusty underneath. Some coatings don't dry properly so rust can grow unseen. The point where wing and body meet can corrode as well. The undercoating seems to be new to make it look nice,but usually people try to hide sth. Fingers crossed underneath that its just bare metal. I would recommend to try to grind it to bare metal at some spots.can agree with Mr.Miller referring to your questions. Good work thx for sharing!
Hey Karl - I’ll try that! Next video content :)
Hi Todd.
I received this week the rebuild kit for my brake master cylinder. They are not that expensive and I think it should be done. Also, the rebuild kits for the brake callipers are cheap. If you want I can send you the references I've bought.
About the wheel hubs, I have the same doubt. I was thinking of powder coat the back part and leave the face in raw aluminium, just because I believe that if I let them all in raw aluminium they will be covered in brake dust in no time and it will be extremely hard to clean.
I am planning to powder coat my first brake calliper today. It will all be done in house. I will share the video later, maybe something for you to consider also due to the number of parts you are powder coating. I chose to get a small sandblast cabinet (check in my vídeos, there is a vídeo about that) and a powder coating set. I've done a lot of small parts already for my track car and for my bikes.
The next investment I am thinking of is a shop press. I am divided between a 10Ton and a 20Ton press.
Keep up with the rebuilt. We want to see the next video.
Hi, Where did you get the master cylinder rebuild kit from and what part number?
Im going to leave the hubs raw metal, but I will spray the callipers in UHT paint, not sure powder coating is ok?
Now you got me hunting for a press! :)
Replace all of the brake line's with new or like you stated original Porsh parts. or as part of the program build a new brake line system. I think you should also replace the hole of the car's wiring loom, but that's another prog.
Hi Barrie, sounds like you are creating work for me ! :). Will investigate the wiring loom soon .... Thanks for watching
Hi Todd, I will leave you a message on IG. Congratulations on the powdercoated parts. They look awesome
Got it Andreas .thanks :)
I would either put the master cylinder back or replace it. It's about £250 for a new one. Not outrageous but it all adds up. I hear that they're a pig to replace if the engine is back in. If the lines are not 100% then replace them. Kunifer pipe and the fittings are cheap. Don't scrimp on a flaring tool. Cheap eBay ones are horrible to use.
One more thing - is the brake servo ok? Again... a horrible job with the engine in place.
The Sykes Flaremaster 2 is the one to have for on the car flares. It can be had for (a bit) under £100 with some shopping around.
Thanks Howard - Is there a way to test the cylinder and the servo to know if they are ok ?
@@MrToddgibbs Hmmm... you don't mess with brakes. The servo needs to hold vacuum. So, if you have a vacuum pump you can check that. I can't think of anything else.
I would definitely replace all the seals and pistons in the calipers. Once you've got it all back together you can test it and see if the master cylinder holds pressure. But, given the car's history, I might want to just spend the money on that to be sure.
Thanks Howard. Ok that’s probably a good idea - rebuild calipers, renew brake lines, reassemble and try…. Leak=replace master cylinder
The inside of the master cylinder should be pristine...I'd replace at this point...brakes aren't something you scrimp on. I'd agree check and vacuum check the booster and other parts of the system. You 100% don't want to replace that with the motor in at this point...it's critical. I was jumping up and down with all that brake fluid glugging out...that is the most pernicious fluid in the car...always suck out as much as you can and have a boat load of towels sliver everything and a hose ready to flush with water if you spill. Ruins and stains everything...especially paint!!!
Score! On the shocks. Are they the Koni internally adjustable? If yes I'll find a sheet on baseline adjustments and send link. Best upgrade value from the BOGE and not too stiff like some other aftermarket shock/spring options.
Looks horrible! Sand is terrible, way too aggressive and those aluminum parts are forever ruined!
hey @drBlast - thanks for comment! Yes, sand does seem a little aggressive. What specifically does it do to ruin them though? It appears to have just taken off the dirt/corrosion
@@MrToddgibbs well the hub and A Arm may be structurally sound but the appearance now is horrendous. Feel free to look at my videos and notice the profile of my blasting of aluminum components, you may never sandblast aluminum items like you did the A Arm and Hub again.
Will do, thanks! They are quite 'raw' now and I considered clear lacquering them to avoid dirt getting in the rough surface - is that a good idea or just leave them as is? Appreciate your input :)
@@MrToddgibbs you should now sand them, but even that process may not make it smooth again
Ah I see. I doubt I can get into all the corners/holes. I see what you mean though - it should be like my smooth intake runners. I’ll experiment a bit - thanks!