The 'beads' may only be specced for 1W in which case that would be a bad idea. However if they are in fact 3W 'beads' being under-driven then, yeah, why not? However it's hard (impossible?) to tell what they're rated for.
@@Shaun.Stephens Generally, you can get an idea of the power rating from the size of the led die. when compared to a die of known power rating, you can deduce the rating.
I've got a shard of an old blue glass bottle which I found while gardening. If I shine my Petzl Actik headtorch through the glass it makes things fluoresce and I can check markings on paper bank notes. That piece of glass is a beautiful blue colour. Stunning.
I bought one of these a few years ago from Amazon advertised as 36w tested at 11.1w went straight back and the company tried to get me to remove my review stating it would unfairly hurt their sales 😂 jog on
One can clearly tell from watching, that Clive was really enjoying himself while making this video. In fact, i would go as far as to say he was excited. =)
It's really odd to see the manufacturers put their contact details on the PCBs. They must not have anything to hide on this one. (It will probably be a sales messenger ID)
It would be interesting to actually *know* the company that made this device. Reason: It doesn´t look "typical chinese" to me. Good, design, good job on the soldering, good circuit design, good choice of components. Could have been manufactured in the US, england, germany, france with only some few extra steps. Hats off to the designer, you Sir, made a device that could have been made in a first world country. Good job! Nice to see something made in china that is actualy well engineered vs. made "as cheap as possible"
The power supply seems to also have the ability of having an adjustable shunt regulator like LT431 and support components installed. If you really want to go to town, you can even make a little pot to adjust the brightness of the lamp by installing the shunt regulator and trimming it's bias.
Energy of an EM spectrum wave is inversely proportional to its wavelength hence the blue end magic and the lack of magic at the red end, which is also the reason that blue LEDs have a higher forward voltage than red LEDs I believe
Yes. The forward voltage drop is usually the same as the energy of the wavelength in electron-volts. That's true unless the semiconductor is doing something fancier than dropping one conduction band electron into a hole and getting one photon in return.
Nice unit, actually has an earth, excellent separation, etc. I suspect this is made for a UK customer or similar to the required standard and that they are also banging it out under their own brand.
I noticed one peculiar detail that you did not cover. The reference design took the feedback at the secondary from a smoothing choke, not from the output voltage. However, the lamp power supply did not have such a choke, so it looks like the feedback must be directly from the secondary (output) voltage. That makes the whole implementation a constant voltage... I would like constant current drive, but that naturally would not work for the fan.
In regards to heating the panel up, I put a cast iron pan upside-down on the stove and get it good and warm. Helps a ton when soldering the square COB LEDs. Works better on a gas stove most likely but would work if you preheated the iron pan and flipped it after turning the heat off. Just take care not to heat it *too* hot before cutting the heat off.
Hi, To help judge the isolation of the transformer you can look at the secondary wire where it is soldered to the pins. If the last bit of insulation looks like burnt plastic it is triple insulated wire and you should be good in any case. The insulation is made up from layers of polyester and polyamide. It could probably also be double isolated and only rated for 3kv withstand voltage but since tiw is the most common I would doubt it. If you want to have a look search for TEX-E. Cheers, Christian
You CAN get a longer wavelength to stimulate the output of shorter wavelength photons, but it involves a high-powered pulsing IR laser. A german lady scientist discovered this effect (two-photon excitation) in 1906. Just learned this today. If I were you, I'd try and swap the zener for the next higher voltage rating, or add a series diode or two and check with the power meter... Cheers!
Perfect timing Clive! I am restoring our kinetic sign (flip dot) on one of our commercial properties and was looking for a way to upgrade the UV florescent tubes used to excite the phosphors on the flip dots to UV LEDs instead.
Nice chunky enclosure. Worth it for the casing alone, and those useful internal components (including the heatsink). Almost tempted to buy three (and re-LED to R,G and B), then drive the LEDs via an off the shelf DMX controller. Pretty inexpensive avenue for a decent build quality powerful RGB disco light??
You forgot to point out that it was correctly earthed... i've seen the 3 wires with the earth connected with a screw to the base... now i guess you can modify it and put your own 3W LEDs and boost it...
@@charles8060 Ok, that's what happend when you "watch" the video while doing something else... i'm a bit embarassed now, is there any way BigClive would forget to point out metal case's earthing??? Thank you for pointing out that i was wrong (not sarcasm)
@Matt Quinn Agreed - now that we know it's well made. However without seeing Clive do a tear-down I'd be loathe to spend that much on it sight-unseen. Maybe I'm just poorer than you?
Hi, better than usual but still not compliant with CE. Earthing isn’t allowed to have a mounting point as it’s main path (even if it’s electrically the same) The path must be made with wire.
stimulation does happen in the other direction it's that the longer wavelengths have less energy so it takes n number of stimulations to produce one photon in the other direction. Tide uses fluorescent dye that takes in IR and emits bluish light to make white clothes look brighter and less yellow.
u-king? I have a few LED-PARs from them which should offer DMX... but their implementation is totally broken... i just can manage different flash/blink modes... but no steady light...
If you forget the 10 watts instead of the 27, its skookum! Might get one and put in some warm white LEDs and stick two magnets in it. Should be a great lamp for nightly crafting!
Where i am from in central Indiana (now Ohio), we have several accents from different locations. I've always pronounced longevity as, "Lawn-jevity", while others say, "long-jevity".
Mr. Clive, doesn't plastic block a fair percentage of the UV so that would mean the plastic cover is reducing the desired UV, or since this is actually a purple light, that is not at play here?? Just curious.
Most plastics block very little UV, a few block lots. Hopefully they chose wisely. Most types of glass block a fair bit, but of course even then there are some types that block very little of it.
LEDs themselves are pretty bad at emitting anything more than barely-UV wavelengths, around 400nm. The kind of LEDs which can go below 300nm are still around $200 a piece.
Clive, it may be time to introduce a range of T and polo shirts, I am sure that many would by them with the Big Clive logo and a typtcal catch phrase on them or a Fray Bentos pie with with Explosion Containment Pie Dish on it rather than the the Fray blurb :)
Maybe the heat sink is there because this might be placed near much hotter fixtures, raising the local ambient temperature and making it harder to keep cool?
Very fascinating to listen and watch an excellent presentation and it answered my thoughts about the possibility to split up the unit into three separate parts, thanks... (love the accent by the way)
Funny that, you finding shmoo on the PCB. For whatever reason, lately I've been finding another "human artifact" recently, while disassembling cheap electronics: *eyelashes!* D:
"Lets Plug It In And Probe About ...." - Yes indeed, Clive, lets. A very well designed, low stressed device. I like gear that is run under capacity. I'd probably put a film of silicone heat sink compound. I do stuff like that.
I'd hope that the reflectors would only go so far on, if they're conductive. Maybe a good reason to keep the glass on right enough; to avoid an inadvertant 'dunt' causing a reflector to hit both teminals either side of its LED. Those buttons look quite big though. Interesting.
Quite strange to see something genuinely well engineered, or maybe even overengineered on this channel. Quite refreshing. Must watch a few quick deathdapter vids to reset the balance.
"120 000" lumen headlight, that i recently bought, is barely ten watts or ~1000 lumens at max brightness. Cost me under ten euros, with batteries so i'm not complaining.
I got some very similar for cheap, tore them down and built the LED panels into an old (and thus relatively high) scanner case. Now I can make PCBs :) . (and it's actually really fast) Mine had a slightly different case without fan and the front was made out af real glass™.
Trying to figure out why replacing a 400W UV bulb with blue metal halide would help with rainwater. It seems to me the MH bulbs run hot too and are just as susceptible to cracking when dripped on. Perhaps the MH lights were new fixtures that kept the water off the bulbs better?
I thoroughly enjoy your videos. I wonder how you are able to find info on even the most obscure parts. Anyway, my freezer recently failed and I determined that the component is the PTC starter. So the component has the following information: 512001 K115 TY. I cant find a manufacturer. Anyway, I popped the top off of the PTC starter and found the PTC element. It has R507 15A imprinted on the device. This is the real component. I have spent a fair amount of time trying to find this R507 15A. How would you find information on this component? I can provide more information if you are interested. Thanks!
Nice fitting there. I wonder how that would run if it was modified to take out the UV LEDs, and replaced with warm white or cool white LEDs? Or even RGB LEDs?
RGB LEDs have a 3rd tail so you would need a new controller for them. Changing the colour of the leds should cause no problem, though you might need to change some of the resistors.
Watch out with UV (or "UV") LEDs! Since the eye isn't very sensitive at this wavelength (or sensitive at all at real UV wavelength), you won't have any eye reflexes (blinking, avoidance, pupil contraction). But it is still 1W LEDs. You wouldn't look into a 1W LED of any other color, because it would just hurt and could damage your eyes, even more so if you were dealing with higher power LEDs.
Can u recommend a source for some rgbw led light strips that are about 1/2 meter long, that can be daisy chained . I want to use them for indirect shelf edge lighting.
Holy hell! My whole moronic country taught me to say "longgevity" even though it's quite clearly "longevity"! I always learn something from each of these videos, but I sure didn't expect _that_
Would an optoisolator degrade the DMX signal? You say there's a risk of putting 240V through DMX, if we put optoisolators on the DMX lines between the external connector and the devices CPU/controller with an anti-tracking slot underneath would that effectively prevent this happening without negatively impacting the ability to send and receive data?
@bigclivedotcom when i saw the thumbnail i thought you got yoursen a mk2 caledonian sleeper model train coach with interior lights. at a glance, the thumbnail pic looks like the side prifile to the BR mk2 in cally sleeper blue and purple livery lol
Big Clive's dentist is missing his UV hardening lamp...
Big Clive's hardening wand is missing a dentist.
@@ipissed LOL
Uh Oh the Clive seal of approval - I smell a run on Ebay !
Too bad Im not seeing the quality version so far. Im seeing the expected (lack of) quality
The price has already gone up!!
Does anyone else watch, not really understand all the ‘techy’ stuff, but stay because Clive has such a soothing voice?
Dunno, I'm here for the "techy" stuff.
Sometimes I wish I had subtitles because of his lovely accent
Pro-ject. Rather than proj-ect
I really wanted to see that puppy modified to run at 27W. Bummer...
Come on, Clive! Do it!
The 'beads' may only be specced for 1W in which case that would be a bad idea. However if they are in fact 3W 'beads' being under-driven then, yeah, why not? However it's hard (impossible?) to tell what they're rated for.
@@Shaun.Stephens Generally, you can get an idea of the power rating from the size of the led die. when compared to a die of known power rating, you can deduce the rating.
That light bar thing is so well made and looks so nice, I want to get one, even though I have no practical use for it.
Drake Tungsten
Whiten your teeth and pretend you're Ross Geller 😂
I had exactly the same thought. It would look great..... erm.... over the bath.... or maybe in the cupboard under the stairs.... or something.
Welcome to the curse of eBay, and having too much money
@@oldbatwit5102 over the bath with some sellotape holding it to the wall lol
Don't. These things aren't real blacklights.
I've got a shard of an old blue glass bottle which I found while gardening. If I shine my Petzl Actik headtorch through the glass it makes things fluoresce and I can check markings on paper bank notes.
That piece of glass is a beautiful blue colour. Stunning.
It's probably cobalt glass. It's very blue and pretty. I used to find pieces in an empty lot next to an old glass factory in my hometown.
I bought one of these a few years ago from Amazon advertised as 36w tested at 11.1w went straight back and the company tried to get me to remove my review stating it would unfairly hurt their sales 😂 jog on
One can clearly tell from watching, that Clive was really enjoying himself while making this video. In fact, i would go as far as to say he was excited. =)
And the designer put their QQ instant messenger ID on the board. Maybe we should send them a heads up. Anyone has a Tencent QQ account here? :)
It's really odd to see the manufacturers put their contact details on the PCBs. They must not have anything to hide on this one. (It will probably be a sales messenger ID)
It would be interesting to actually *know* the company that made this device.
Reason: It doesn´t look "typical chinese" to me. Good, design, good job on the soldering, good circuit design, good choice of components.
Could have been manufactured in the US, england, germany, france with only some few extra steps.
Hats off to the designer, you Sir, made a device that could have been made in a first world country. Good job!
Nice to see something made in china that is actualy well engineered vs. made "as cheap as possible"
@@bigclivedotcom Scary enough, it is American made...
@@PatrickLeeUS
Why is that scary?
@@PatrickLeeUS No, it's not. (The PCB)
That’s quite a nice enclosure ripe for hacking...
The power supply seems to also have the ability of having an adjustable shunt regulator like LT431 and support components installed. If you really want to go to town, you can even make a little pot to adjust the brightness of the lamp by installing the shunt regulator and trimming it's bias.
Love the ElectroBOOM reference at 9:03 :D
I love the little nods creators give to other creators in this space. Always brings a smile to my face.
14:45 for the AvE references to the manufacturing schmoo!
Energy of an EM spectrum wave is inversely proportional to its wavelength hence the blue end magic and the lack of magic at the red end, which is also the reason that blue LEDs have a higher forward voltage than red LEDs I believe
Yes. The forward voltage drop is usually the same as the energy of the wavelength in electron-volts. That's true unless the semiconductor is doing something fancier than dropping one conduction band electron into a hole and getting one photon in return.
Did anyone else get a vision of Clive wearing his fluorescing overalls at a disco?
And I shall don my fluorescent yellow Lycra and dance in front of said UV batton bar... disco inferno!!
Oh blimey, dear God .......... I'm on the Dark Web again.
In the back of your new Camper van, preferrably behind closed doors! LOL
Boogie down Disco warrior!
"Burn baby burn!"
Nice unit, actually has an earth, excellent separation, etc. I suspect this is made for a UK customer or similar to the required standard and that they are also banging it out under their own brand.
More than likely it was a high-end unit and someone ripped it off verbatim. Then got it mass produced in China for peanuts.
The heat dissipation here seems designed to handle a 27W load, it's just that someone put 9W of LEDs in there instead.
Pretty well made LED light. Reminds me a bit of the LED modules they put in the freezers at shopping centers.
I noticed one peculiar detail that you did not cover. The reference design took the feedback at the secondary from a smoothing choke, not from the output voltage. However, the lamp power supply did not have such a choke, so it looks like the feedback must be directly from the secondary (output) voltage. That makes the whole implementation a constant voltage... I would like constant current drive, but that naturally would not work for the fan.
It would have been better as a constant current unit. The fan could still have been tapped across three LEDs.
In regards to heating the panel up, I put a cast iron pan upside-down on the stove and get it good and warm. Helps a ton when soldering the square COB LEDs. Works better on a gas stove most likely but would work if you preheated the iron pan and flipped it after turning the heat off. Just take care not to heat it *too* hot before cutting the heat off.
Top tip.
On the ones I have, the power switch is labeled backwards and if I recall, you can smell something inside the lamp getting warm.
This channel has conditioned me to "pucker up" due to impending mains play every time I hear "Hopi"
Your pictures of the circuit board looks like a real circuit board on your desk! It looks like you even cut the holes out.
Man I've missed your videos I haven't watched one in ages glad I've returned to the world of Clive
Hi,
To help judge the isolation of the transformer you can look at the secondary wire where it is soldered to the pins. If the last bit of insulation looks like burnt plastic it is triple insulated wire and you should be good in any case. The insulation is made up from layers of polyester and polyamide. It could probably also be double isolated and only rated for 3kv withstand voltage but since tiw is the most common I would doubt it. If you want to have a look search for TEX-E.
Cheers, Christian
Looks like the lighting makers have started watching Big Clive.
I just love your voice.. I play your videos every night before sleeping because it is the most relaxing voice ever :D
You CAN get a longer wavelength to stimulate the output of shorter wavelength photons, but it involves a high-powered pulsing IR laser. A german lady scientist discovered this effect (two-photon excitation) in 1906. Just learned this today. If I were you, I'd try and swap the zener for the next higher voltage rating, or add a series diode or two and check with the power meter...
Cheers!
Frequency doubling is the way to make most green lasers
Perfect timing Clive! I am restoring our kinetic sign (flip dot) on one of our commercial properties and was looking for a way to upgrade the UV florescent tubes used to excite the phosphors on the flip dots to UV LEDs instead.
I'd suggest giving one of these a long trial to see how long term reliability is.
Very nice supply .. whoever made ot was proud enough to put his phone and qq on it .. nice!
Nice chunky enclosure. Worth it for the casing alone, and those useful internal components (including the heatsink). Almost tempted to buy three (and re-LED to R,G and B), then drive the LEDs via an off the shelf DMX controller. Pretty inexpensive avenue for a decent build quality powerful RGB disco light??
You forgot to point out that it was correctly earthed... i've seen the 3 wires with the earth connected with a screw to the base... now i guess you can modify it and put your own 3W LEDs and boost it...
He says the case is earthed at 16:10
Also at 7:44
@@charles8060 Ok, that's what happend when you "watch" the video while doing something else... i'm a bit embarassed now, is there any way BigClive would forget to point out metal case's earthing??? Thank you for pointing out that i was wrong (not sarcasm)
"Can I say anything bad about it?"... how about the fact it's advertised at 27W but runs at 9W 😁
Guess they forgot the 18 other watts ^^ and yes I did the math.
New math 1×9=27
To be fair, the manufacturers probably have no control over what the eBay sellers claim...
They are listed at this wattage in multiple different sources. not just eBay. There are also other variants, such as a 36 W 12 LED and 18 W 6 LED
Perhaps they use the same watts that audio suppliers rate their amplifiers in for compatibility on audio-visual presentations?
Thanks for this, makes a change to see these cheap lights being under driven, just ordered 10 for £127.59 😊
I'm sure this is a dream, a quite reasonable light with a decent psu.
And earthed for a change :-D
But not exactly cheap. You get what you pay for (sometimes).
@Matt Quinn Agreed - now that we know it's well made. However without seeing Clive do a tear-down I'd be loathe to spend that much on it sight-unseen. Maybe I'm just poorer than you?
Hi, better than usual but still not compliant with CE. Earthing isn’t allowed to have a mounting point as it’s main path (even if it’s electrically the same) The path must be made with wire.
Probably the exact same power supply they use in the 24 LED version. Cheaper to use the same supply in each variation.
Nice to hear you satisfied!
I wonder why you people don't say *long-livity* or something like that.
stimulation does happen in the other direction it's that the longer wavelengths have less energy so it takes n number of stimulations to produce one photon in the other direction. Tide uses fluorescent dye that takes in IR and emits bluish light to make white clothes look brighter and less yellow.
I have a laser pointer sold as "purple" (405nm) that makes lots of things fluoresce quite well. A lot of fun in a dark room.
Ohhhh, I ❤️ the lovely purpley color! 🤠
William Squires I 💜💜💜💜💜 it too. 🤠
u-king? I have a few LED-PARs from them which should offer DMX... but their implementation is totally broken... i just can manage different flash/blink modes... but no steady light...
If you forget the 10 watts instead of the 27, its skookum! Might get one and put in some warm white LEDs and stick two magnets in it. Should be a great lamp for nightly crafting!
Sounded like you said "full bridge rectifier", but i couldnt quite make it out...
Where i am from in central Indiana (now Ohio), we have several accents from different locations.
I've always pronounced longevity as, "Lawn-jevity", while others say, "long-jevity".
10 out of 10, for grounding.
You should give them a ring and say hello seeing as they were nice enough to give you there number on the pcb :)
Mr. Clive, doesn't plastic block a fair percentage of the UV so that would mean the plastic cover is reducing the desired UV, or since this is actually a purple light, that is not at play here?? Just curious.
Most plastics block very little UV, a few block lots. Hopefully they chose wisely. Most types of glass block a fair bit, but of course even then there are some types that block very little of it.
That tends to be in the shorter wavelengths of UV.
LEDs themselves are pretty bad at emitting anything more than barely-UV wavelengths, around 400nm. The kind of LEDs which can go below 300nm are still around $200 a piece.
@@FireAngelOfLondon Chinese made and wise design choices seem to rarely go together. ;-)
@@JaroslawFiliochowski Ahh- makes sense. Thx.
I wonder if the reflectors weren't stepped like that but smooth if the output would be brighter or smoother?
Wow, nothing running at 200 degrees C. Cool.
Unless Clive has changed his usual ambient to 170.
Joseph Cote - Actually I think Clive likes it around 0.
Clive, it may be time to introduce a range of T and polo shirts, I am sure that many would by them with the Big Clive logo and a typtcal catch phrase on them or a Fray Bentos pie with with Explosion Containment Pie Dish on it rather than the the Fray blurb :)
Appears very well designed
Maybe the heat sink is there because this might be placed near much hotter fixtures, raising the local ambient temperature and making it harder to keep cool?
Very fascinating to listen and watch an excellent presentation and it answered my thoughts about the possibility to split up the unit into three separate parts, thanks... (love the accent by the way)
Funny that, you finding shmoo on the PCB. For whatever reason, lately I've been finding another "human artifact" recently, while disassembling cheap electronics: *eyelashes!* D:
Wow! We have a "FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER" !!!! That's right up there with we have "POWER" !!! ):D
And manufacturing schmoo as well.. RELEASE THE SCHMOO!!!
"Lets Plug It In And Probe About ...." - Yes indeed, Clive, lets. A very well designed, low stressed device. I like gear that is run under capacity. I'd probably put a film of silicone heat sink compound. I do stuff like that.
thanks for the video. greetings from France 🇫🇷
I'd like to see how you'd modify this to overdrive the LEDs or replace them with higher output white LEDs
I'd hope that the reflectors would only go so far on, if they're conductive. Maybe a good reason to keep the glass on right enough; to avoid an inadvertant 'dunt' causing a reflector to hit both teminals either side of its LED. Those buttons look quite big though. Interesting.
It tickles me pink that you have a light that beeps to announce it's turning on and off! Hey Clive could we sell it as torch for blind? LOL
Finally, Something safe and well made.
Quite strange to see something genuinely well engineered, or maybe even overengineered on this channel. Quite refreshing. Must watch a few quick deathdapter vids to reset the balance.
I've got an LEDJ branded DMX UV baton that claims 60W (12x5W)... I should check the power consumption on it too.
Thank you for informative video about ultraviolet blacklight bar
I almost bought a couple of these but the DMX ones and chickened out as I thought they were gonna be utterly dreadful.
They definitely overstate the power of LED bars like this.
It seems like the specs are always over stated...
"120 000" lumen headlight, that i recently bought, is barely ten watts or ~1000 lumens at max brightness. Cost me under ten euros, with batteries so i'm not complaining.
jeffrey hebert , Ebay is a huge gamble.
sleeptyper , true. Especially if it’s 8650 batteries, I always need more :)
I got some very similar for cheap, tore them down and built the LED panels into an old (and thus relatively high) scanner case. Now I can make PCBs :) . (and it's actually really fast)
Mine had a slightly different case without fan and the front was made out af real glass™.
It's been a while since we had a properly good transformer unwinding....
nicely made is it 19" ? no idea why I would need one but foxy would like one !
Trying to figure out why replacing a 400W UV bulb with blue metal halide would help with rainwater. It seems to me the MH bulbs run hot too and are just as susceptible to cracking when dripped on. Perhaps the MH lights were new fixtures that kept the water off the bulbs better?
The old (huge) fixtures had water ingress issues. The new smaller metal halide fixtures were better sealed.
The forward Voltage drop in the LED in the PC817's is 1.7 Volts not 3 Volts (UV) per manual.
I thoroughly enjoy your videos. I wonder how you are able to find info on even the most obscure parts. Anyway, my freezer recently failed and I determined that the component is the PTC starter. So the component has the following information: 512001 K115 TY. I cant find a manufacturer.
Anyway, I popped the top off of the PTC starter and found the PTC element. It has R507 15A imprinted on the device. This is the real component.
I have spent a fair amount of time trying to find this R507 15A. How would you find information on this component? I can provide more information if you are interested. Thanks!
Very nice light, well made. Good tear down u did.
You sound like Yoda
@@benwinkel I hadn't even noticed lol but your right.
Not t-bag I would say
Usually 3W "beads" have bigger chip than 1W. These chrome plated reflectors lasts for decades.
I use 4 of them for my wedding dj setup years now and none broke
Nice fitting there. I wonder how that would run if it was modified to take out the UV LEDs, and replaced with warm white or cool white LEDs? Or even RGB LEDs?
RGB LEDs have a 3rd tail so you would need a new controller for them. Changing the colour of the leds should cause no problem, though you might need to change some of the resistors.
That blue LED wand looks like one of those glue curers that dentists use on fillings
Wow. A properly engineered and constructed piece of electronics?
That's a change.
RGB is the only right thing right now!
Any chance you look at PC-RGB stuff?? OR look at a PC Power Supply (with RGB obviously ;)), Clive?
I'd watch that video. RGB Clive!
Can it have some sort of UV-pass filter added so the visible portion is removed and you're left with just the proper uv portion of the band?
That is quite the mouthful for the name of the unit. D:
Those must be those *special 10 mike fart capacitors* everyone has been talking about! Finally I get to see one!
Watch out with UV (or "UV") LEDs! Since the eye isn't very sensitive at this wavelength (or sensitive at all at real UV wavelength), you won't have any eye reflexes (blinking, avoidance, pupil contraction). But it is still 1W LEDs. You wouldn't look into a 1W LED of any other color, because it would just hurt and could damage your eyes, even more so if you were dealing with higher power LEDs.
Are ultraviolet steel angels an evolution of the Stone Angels from Dr. Who?
2:46
Or an awesome name for an 80's hair metal band?
Or Ultraviolet steel angles miss spelled?
"Don't Blink! Blink and you're dead" - The Doctor
@@shadowzedge5793 My favourite - "This is not War, this is Pest Control!"
They're an evolution of these ladies: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steel_Angel_Kurumi
"longjevity" i say for pronunciation :) love ur work
Loinjewety
www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=FpOyXJDYDoyy9QPx067wBw&q=longevity&btnK=Google+Search&oq=longevity&gs_l=psy-ab.3..0l10.1864.5803..6263...0.0..0.236.1798.0j6j3......0....1..gws-wiz.....0..0i131j0i3.LYCUTuKkKCk
Can u recommend a source for some rgbw led light strips that are about 1/2 meter long, that can be daisy chained . I want to use them for indirect shelf edge lighting.
9:08 IS THAT AN ELECTROBOOM REFERENCE?
You probably know this but I feel like I should point out that the "chrome" plating is usually an aluminium physical vapour deposition coating.
I feel like i should point out that your avatar shows nothing like a man with beard.
But you probably know this...
@@benwinkel Give me a moment.
@@ManWithBeard1990 Lol!
@@benwinkel I changed it. Is that better?
@@ManWithBeard1990 It doesn't show yet
Holy hell! My whole moronic country taught me to say "longgevity" even though it's quite clearly "longevity"! I always learn something from each of these videos, but I sure didn't expect _that_
There's different uv wave lengths. We have forensic uv led tourches
Did you leave positive feedback on E-bay?
hey clive the logo on the lamp itself is identical to the Rebirth rda in vaping.
You can see the fan label, so it's extracting. They always go the same way.
Would an optoisolator degrade the DMX signal? You say there's a risk of putting 240V through DMX, if we put optoisolators on the DMX lines between the external connector and the devices CPU/controller with an anti-tracking slot underneath would that effectively prevent this happening without negatively impacting the ability to send and receive data?
" Let's plug it in and probe about "... Proctolicical exam words you NEVER want to hear, but expected during a LED light exam from BigClive!
They went to all that effort to design it properly, then they cheaped out on the LED wattage and lied about it.
@bigclivedotcom when i saw the thumbnail i thought you got yoursen a mk2 caledonian sleeper model train coach with interior lights. at a glance, the thumbnail pic looks like the side prifile to the BR mk2 in cally sleeper blue and purple livery lol
Not so much ultra violet as mildly violet?
TheAmpair somewhere between ultra violent to infra dead