One thing that’s worth mentioning as well- it’s safer, since you have a solid stop to drill against, so you don’t to worry about the drill binding up and turning your part into a propeller.
Yes I forgot to mention that, but yes that's one of the biggest wins. I'm always doing a quick freehand drill, and if there is any tool that draws my blood, it's usually the drill press
Hmmm ... there is still a risk, because the part is not held down, and can under certain circumstances climb up the flutes of the drill, and start spinning when it overtops the fence. I deal with it in some detail in a separate post below.
Excellent. As a hybrid woodworker/metalworker I see lots of crossover that isnt utilised. The flip stops are a great example of this. Semi-precise and perfect for many jobs. Suits practically everything woodworking and a lot of metalworking. The spinny drill thingy in the middle is genius. I have added this to my list of things to make. Number 4633 on the list. Thats pretty high all things considered.
Lovely result Tom. Serious time savings! We've all spent too much time with cold blue, calipers, squares and punches that this tool could have saved. Most jobs don't need mill-precision, and this will be perfect for those. I've seen many wooden tables and fences added to drill presses for woodworking use, but never seen one intended for metalwork. Great thinking! 💡
Watching this, I wish I hadn’t messed around so much during metalwork at school. 40 years later, with a career in IT, I’m interested in this stuff because it’s all so tactile and physical. Great video!
I was never hugely into wood/metal work in school. But looking back it was probably because everything was just manual hand sawing and filing. I'm basically self taught on everything thanks to youtube, you just need to get started on something and build on your skills over time
It took a long time to build, but the time it saves you is priceless. Excellent job!!! Glad to see a video that is not a stupid waste of time for a change. Keep up the good work!!!
But it is a stupid waste of time, the only reason to make this is if you have nothing else to make, if he had something to make you wouldn't be seeing him make this.
@Mr Sock I bet the same was said of every incremental improvement in history. Who needs roads when dirt paths are perfectly fine? I make tool upgrades on this side of other projects, and I enjoy it. Surely that is a good reason?
If you had 10 or 1000 pieces to make, all with holes needed in the same position, you would see the value in this fence, as opposed to measuring and marking each hole individually.
@@TomMakeHere get over yourself, this gimmicky trash can't be compared to paving roads, there's cobblestone roads that are hundreds of years old. After you work out how to mark out and drill holes this will be stuffed under a bench or used to make something worthwhile.
You are so clever! And you have such an amazing range of tools and machines and materials. And you know what to do the whole time and how to do it. Yes, you are sooo clever! And efficient! Thank you so much for showing us. We are forever thankful and full of admiration. You are a real Hero.
That is an awesome drill press table! Good work. Also I died laughing when you called them "flippy stops." I think that should be the new official name. The free spinning insert is pretty clever. I haven't seen anything like that. I'm a woodworker, so a lot of machining is fascinating at a distance. Good video. Cheers.
Thanks, wood working is an area I'm slowly venturing into, the cross over between fields will be fun. Making a dado capable arbor for my table saw is on my to do list. Might not make that into a video though
@@TomMakeHere I'd actually l love to see that. If you don't make a full video, you can always make a short instead and just cover the major operations with on screen text. Shorts get a pretty different audience, but woodworking and machining shorts seem to do pretty well and increase discoverability. From a purely selfish perspective, I have a tablesaw I'd like to do the same to, so seeing it done would be great lol.
Excellent design work here. Thank You. I've used the drill press a lot for metal work, and often wondered why drill press tables are the way they are (lack function, and vulnerable to the drill bit as well, not good at all for clamping onto, do not collect the chips well at all, and on and on). Love the removable insert, as well as the T-slot on the side. I plan to make this or something similar for my shop as well.
Have been trying to figure out how to solve these very common irksome issues for years. Your collection of solutions is along the lines I was thinking, but does the job much better in each case. Thank you for sharing your wisdom and skills. Much appreciated.
"skim off the rust and flatten it." It might have been interesting to see the plate bow when you had skinned only the one side. Then how you skinned the other and whether the plate normalized for you or not, and if not, how you proceeded to take out the bowing. I can't tell you how many times I have chased the stress from one side of a hunk of metal to the other, never quite getting 'em evened out. When I'm able to, I prefer to heat it to about 2000F in a bed of coals and let it cool slowly. Makes an enormous difference in rolled structural steels. I like what you did there. I may imitate you using Alum' Jig Plate
Now do those holes with a 3mm drill... or do have long series drills for the small sizes so the chuck can clear the fence? Have you thought about sanding the rust off before machining the parts? Your tooling would last a lot longer. Same thing with using some lube and coolant. Have you thought about using wood for some of the components? Ply and MDF specifically.
Good point, my drill chuck actually can't hold those small sizes, for that purpose I use a micro chuck in my chuck. The micro chuck is smaller and allows t to get past the fence. That being said, I'm considering a lower profile aluminium extrusion to make it easier I was a bit lazy on the rust removal on this one. I just didn't have my wire wheel handy so I just went for it I typically use a paste lubricant for a lot of my drilling and always when tapping. For machine tooling I typically run carbide, but I'm not set up for a consistent flood coolant, so there is no point without inducing thermal shock from intermittent cooling I wanted a durable 'forever table' and didn't want to deal with metal chips getting embedded so I made it from steel, but yes ply/mdf would work fine or even aluminium plate Thanks for watching and the comments!
Great design, thanks. By the way: I have learned at school to never ever use gloves at rotating tools, especially at a drill press. It is very dangerous for fingers and hands.
@@NigelTolley Also thin gloves, for example made of rubber or silicone, are dangerous at any rotating tools. There are impressive videos here on UA-cam. They do not tear apart.
Before trying to drill a bunch of non-punched holes, I would chuck an automatic center punch into it and use the drill press to punch my four hole locations. I think this would improve accuracy.
I love it, one change. On your table holding bolts drill 4 holes outside your pattren to bolt it to the base parts so you can still use the clamp down holes youve lost bolting it down. Last this system is brilliant, I see an ability to add draws to the bottom to hold bits in. Nice prototype but probably better mass production would use aircraft aluminum And if you need a larger fence 8020 had larger stock that wider, in fact a t slot system could also work like a bridgport mill , you could also make 1/2 of it fold for off 90dgr holes. I like this. Where's mine?
Excellent points. Yes I'm considering additional tapped holes around the centre for this reason Drawers were a consideration, but I have a metal stand under the drill (with a terrible plywood top) I need to overhaul that and maybe add drawers there Your table is in your head and some material stock, it's just up to you to find it!
Awesome build dude, there's a lot of good stuff you've implemented! Incredibly handy The spinning plug insert you mentioned will freespin once you've made contact - I imagine you'll have others with a larger bore for if you're doing large(r) diameter drilling?
@@TomMakeHere Why do you need something in there at all, once you've aligned the table with the brass item and removed it? Is it to keep the hole clear of swarf (which seems ample justification, BTW)
How I would LOVE to be able to work metal (I work in wood) I would love a budget mill to learn on. You're an inspiration Tom. And you make it look SOOOOO easy that I know it isn't.😶🌫
I'm going the other way and venturing into wood work ha ha I started from a small minimill and worked my way up, it's a learning journey, but fun if you like precision and perfect fits
Thanks. There are plenty of options for any build. The table could be any flat material; aluminium, plywood etc. The 90° head was a nice-to-have option, changing the work holding could achieve the same result, or a bolt on T-track could serve the same result
Yep, that's a sub. Very nice and concise mods. Everything you did was dying to get a spot on this video. I suppose there were others that didn't make the cut this time. As a new fabricator this is candystore level ideas.
Thanks for watching and sub! Yep, that's usually what I aim to do on this channel, just make a big dump of ideas, have fun and hopefully inspire or help someone out there
Beautiful. My drill press is 20 year old Harbor Freight garbage and needs to be replaced. Making this table would be a good reason to buy a decent drill press. No new, affordable drill presses come with these features. Well done.
When you skinned that original piece of material, did it not bow or warp on you??? I would have expected that? Did you surface it more than once perhaps?
When drilling thin sheet steel with a conventional drill bit (twist drill) there's a real risk, when breaking through, that the drill creates a lobed hole which acts like a nut on a leadscrew with a VERY coarse helix. This can cause the workpiece to jump off the table without any provocation but extremely suddenly. The moment it gets above the level of the fence it does a lifelike impression of a rotary scythe. It happens only rarely, but that makes it all the more likely to catch people unawares. And explains why it is not a well-known contingency. I think it would be a good idea to suggest to impressionable viewers that in such cases they rig a toggle clamp to quickly hold each workpiece down. For repetition work, some sideways projecting, overhanging item, which the workpiece could easily be slid under, might be worth considering. Perhaps a piece of rod bent into a U, and then inserted in a vice with the plain legs protruding upwards, so they can be bent over at maybe 30 degrees. The result would look a bit like a ski tip. This could plug into a couple of holes equispaced in the vertical face of the fence, to straddle and surround the drill. The underside could be say 5mm above the deck, anything thicker should probably be clamped.
I like the overhanging shelf idea, I would probably just clamp something down that provides a shelf and slide the parts under that. Or clamp the part directly for a one-off A zero clearance insert will also reduce the tendency to grab The fence is also a great safety feature as it prevents the part from spinning so long as the part isn't drawn up Thanks for the comment!
@@TomMakeHere It does not happen rarely.....it happens often. With all the holes why not make a hold down.? The time use it is negligible,,,,,compared to the time away from the shop getting stitches and then spending another 1/2 day getting them out.
That’s a lot of work mate, but we’ll worth it in the end… unfortunately I don’t have the equipment to be able to make that set up, but one day maybe :) well done, that’s an amazing design…
Great video! Curious to hear your thoughts about chemical removal of rust and mill scale before machining. For those minus a mill, perhaps a wood and hardwood plywood version to start?
I've not really played a lot with chemical rust removal. I usually use a wire wheel. I was lazy and used the mill, I'm intending to tear it down and give it a clean soon, so I thought a bit more dirt won't hurt in the short term. Absolutely wood could be used. T track could be inserted as guides for the fence. Or aluminium could be used
Nice work. Can someone tell me what the clamps that might fit into the grooves in my drill press table in order to hold work steady are called and where I can get some?
Thanks You are probably after a T nut / T bolt I suspect. You might be able to get away with a regular bolt if you grind the head a bit shorter, or a small piece of flat bar with a tapped hole to accept a bolt
@@TomMakeHere Only problem is...I don't have t slots in the drill press table. It has horizontal grooves, flush, on top and on the bottom it is curved.
Great work Tom, accuracy/repeated...But 0.5mm will never equal 0.013" thou...How about a digital scale stuck to the top of the rail, the top stops could be locked in by a cam action bolt, save having to find the Allen key everytime...
Betcha there are tables out there costing way more than the cost to build this. I'm sharing this with the shop I used to work in. How does it travel with thicker materials, larger holes or non-square pieces?
Larger holes may be an issue depending on your torque as it might knock your fence if it's not locked down well enough. The table seems to suit my drill press fine in holes up to 16 mm so far, and it 12 mm steel Non square pieces may require you to clamp it down to prevent it moving
Oh, welcome back online, Tom! I've been missing your accent, mait)) Is it you having got some new toys (read: video equipment) or it's me who have forgotten what your videos look like?
Liked. Subbed. I'm impressed with the drill stop idea, did you come up with that for yourself or have you seen it elsewhere? I'm not planning to make such a table for myself but I think I might experiment with making just that part for my existing table. Thanks for sharing the idea. I think I will experiment with putting an old motorcycle valve spring under the spinning button so that larger diameter drill bits will be able to go all the way through the work. I'll just have to be careful to make sure the spring is wound in the correct direction so that any twisting action on it doesn't react upwards. The alignment button is similar to something I already do but I use a parallel pin and hole. Now that I have seen your idea I'm thinking an old timkin wheel bearing might be a way of accurately aligning with the chuck axis. By running the chuck and pressing down it should align to the centre of quill play. Now I'll just have to think of a way of holding the timkin cup where I need it to be... Good job Tom... you've got me thinking
Not sure what you mean by the drill stop? The flip down stops are common in woodworking tools, and I stole the idea from there The button in the middle was just meant to be a replaceable insert, but the fact that it spins was somewhat of a realisation after I'd made it! My table is hollow if I take out the button apart from the plunger. But it could probably be modified so that it easily lifts out the top, opening up the bore Thanks for watching! Always happy to inspire ideas!
It is a good point, the original table was cast iron, this is heavier but not by heaps. Aluminium profile would make an excellent table choice though as it is nice and flat, and the v profile extrusions would eliminate the need for the tapped holes
Quick drilling setups for fabrication where a mill is overkill and would take longer to set up Plus if there is a jig set up at the mill partway through another job I'd need to tear it down
Since your drill is round, you only need to move one side of your fence. The other side would be pinned. Yes, you would need a different scale, but that should not be difficult.
One thing that’s worth mentioning as well- it’s safer, since you have a solid stop to drill against, so you don’t to worry about the drill binding up and turning your part into a propeller.
Yes I forgot to mention that, but yes that's one of the biggest wins.
I'm always doing a quick freehand drill, and if there is any tool that draws my blood, it's usually the drill press
That is super nice Tom. Thanks for sharing and inspiring
But, ti's fun to throw a part and a small vice through the window. I know, I did that.
Hmmm ... there is still a risk, because the part is not held down, and can under certain circumstances climb up the flutes of the drill, and start spinning when it overtops the fence. I deal with it in some detail in a separate post below.
@@TomMakeHere ohhh yeah how true those words are for me over my 43yrs trade life.
At least I still have all my fingers🤔
Excellent. As a hybrid woodworker/metalworker I see lots of crossover that isnt utilised. The flip stops are a great example of this. Semi-precise and perfect for many jobs. Suits practically everything woodworking and a lot of metalworking. The spinny drill thingy in the middle is genius. I have added this to my list of things to make. Number 4633 on the list. Thats pretty high all things considered.
Thanks for watching!
Yes, the endless project list ha ha
Lovely result Tom. Serious time savings! We've all spent too much time with cold blue, calipers, squares and punches that this tool could have saved. Most jobs don't need mill-precision, and this will be perfect for those. I've seen many wooden tables and fences added to drill presses for woodworking use, but never seen one intended for metalwork. Great thinking! 💡
Thanks Craig!
I might need to adapt more wood working tools to metalwork. Track saw using a slitting saw? 🤔😂
@@TomMakeHere 😁 You jest, but I used to part-own a metal cutting circular saw in the UK. Adding a track would not have been much effort 👍
True, I forgot about those lol
Watching this, I wish I hadn’t messed around so much during metalwork at school. 40 years later, with a career in IT, I’m interested in this stuff because it’s all so tactile and physical. Great video!
I was never hugely into wood/metal work in school. But looking back it was probably because everything was just manual hand sawing and filing.
I'm basically self taught on everything thanks to youtube, you just need to get started on something and build on your skills over time
It took a long time to build, but the time it saves you is priceless. Excellent job!!! Glad to see a video that is not a stupid waste of time for a change. Keep up the good work!!!
Thanks thats right
and yeah I try to keep my videos relavant, short and to the point
But it is a stupid waste of time, the only reason to make this is if you have nothing else to make, if he had something to make you wouldn't be seeing him make this.
@Mr Sock I bet the same was said of every incremental improvement in history. Who needs roads when dirt paths are perfectly fine?
I make tool upgrades on this side of other projects, and I enjoy it. Surely that is a good reason?
If you had 10 or 1000 pieces to make, all with holes needed in the same position, you would see the value in this fence, as opposed to measuring and marking each hole individually.
@@TomMakeHere get over yourself, this gimmicky trash can't be compared to paving roads, there's cobblestone roads that are hundreds of years old. After you work out how to mark out and drill holes this will be stuffed under a bench or used to make something worthwhile.
You are so clever! And you have such an amazing range of tools and machines and materials. And you know what to do the whole time and how to do it. Yes, you are sooo clever! And efficient! Thank you so much for showing us. We are forever thankful and full of admiration. You are a real Hero.
Not sure if sarcasm? lol
Anyway I had fun making it
That is an awesome drill press table! Good work. Also I died laughing when you called them "flippy stops." I think that should be the new official name. The free spinning insert is pretty clever. I haven't seen anything like that. I'm a woodworker, so a lot of machining is fascinating at a distance. Good video. Cheers.
Thanks, wood working is an area I'm slowly venturing into, the cross over between fields will be fun. Making a dado capable arbor for my table saw is on my to do list. Might not make that into a video though
@@TomMakeHere I'd actually l love to see that. If you don't make a full video, you can always make a short instead and just cover the major operations with on screen text. Shorts get a pretty different audience, but woodworking and machining shorts seem to do pretty well and increase discoverability. From a purely selfish perspective, I have a tablesaw I'd like to do the same to, so seeing it done would be great lol.
Wow!!! Your talent and workmanship is next level. Thanks for your vid
Thanks for watching mate 😀
Excellent design work here. Thank You. I've used the drill press a lot for metal work, and often wondered why drill press tables are the way they are (lack function, and vulnerable to the drill bit as well, not good at all for clamping onto, do not collect the chips well at all, and on and on). Love the removable insert, as well as the T-slot on the side. I plan to make this or something similar for my shop as well.
Thanks! Yeah the more I started thinking about it, the more I realised there was something worthwhile here
Have been trying to figure out how to solve these very common irksome issues for years. Your collection of solutions is along the lines I was thinking, but does the job much better in each case.
Thank you for sharing your wisdom and skills. Much appreciated.
Thanks for watching, I hope it inspired some good ideas
@@TomMakeHere Yes it has. Are you a trained engineer?
I am as it happens, although I'm more in the structural world, but I do a bit of mechanical too
“It’s really awesome.” Yes, it is. Great design. Great implementation.
Subscribed for more. 👍🏻
Cheers, more to come!
"skim off the rust and flatten it." It might have been interesting to see the plate bow when you had skinned only the one side. Then how you skinned the other and whether the plate normalized for you or not, and if not, how you proceeded to take out the bowing. I can't tell you how many times I have chased the stress from one side of a hunk of metal to the other, never quite getting 'em evened out.
When I'm able to, I prefer to heat it to about 2000F in a bed of coals and let it cool slowly. Makes an enormous difference in rolled structural steels.
I like what you did there. I may imitate you using Alum' Jig Plate
very nice drill pallet, and I like the fence stops thats a great idea, simimlar to the rotating depth post on my router ...also a huge time saver.
Yeah it's a great tool
Thanks for watching
Some interesting thinking in this project.
And your camera and editing work is top notch, as always.
Thanks! Just need to find more workshop time
Really happy to see a new video from you.
Thanks!
If I had the time I'd be pumping out videos
Nice build, thanks Tom. Great to see the "new" mill in action!
Thanks! I've been meaning to get it properly set it up for a while now
Some great ideas you have given us with your build Tom
Love the rigidity. Thanks for sharing
Cheers
Thanks for watching! Hope there are some good takeaways
Now do those holes with a 3mm drill... or do have long series drills for the small sizes so the chuck can clear the fence? Have you thought about sanding the rust off before machining the parts? Your tooling would last a lot longer. Same thing with using some lube and coolant. Have you thought about using wood for some of the components? Ply and MDF specifically.
Good point, my drill chuck actually can't hold those small sizes, for that purpose I use a micro chuck in my chuck. The micro chuck is smaller and allows t to get past the fence. That being said, I'm considering a lower profile aluminium extrusion to make it easier
I was a bit lazy on the rust removal on this one. I just didn't have my wire wheel handy so I just went for it
I typically use a paste lubricant for a lot of my drilling and always when tapping. For machine tooling I typically run carbide, but I'm not set up for a consistent flood coolant, so there is no point without inducing thermal shock from intermittent cooling
I wanted a durable 'forever table' and didn't want to deal with metal chips getting embedded so I made it from steel, but yes ply/mdf would work fine or even aluminium plate
Thanks for watching and the comments!
Hi Tom. Great upgrade for the drill. I will be doing one for my poor old drill.
Cool, it's a bit of work, but handy when done
Impressive design and results. Brilliant!
Thanks!
What a brilliant setup! I bet that'll save a bunch of time in very short order
Thanks, it works well
This was a lot of work, but you produced something extremely useful. Great video, thanks for sharing your idea.
Yep, I love it. Great tool
I am so making something like this once I've got our workshop's standing drill installed.
Go for it!
There is something so satisfying watching steel cut steel.
It's great
Thanks for watching
Great design, thanks. By the way: I have learned at school to never ever use gloves at rotating tools, especially at a drill press. It is very dangerous for fingers and hands.
They'd just tear apart, they're latex or silicone and really thin. Edit: nitrile.
@@NigelTolley Also thin gloves, for example made of rubber or silicone, are dangerous at any rotating tools. There are impressive videos here on UA-cam. They do not tear apart.
Nice design and execution. Really well done, Bud.
Cheers!
You are a sharp thinking. Very nicely done. Thanks for the post!
Thanks for watching!
subscribing because I love your editing and content....cheers from Florida, USA...Paul
Cheers mate! Good to have you on board
Excellent workmanship...gloves and anything turning is a No No...
Before trying to drill a bunch of non-punched holes, I would chuck an automatic center punch into it and use the drill press to punch my four hole locations. I think this would improve accuracy.
That's an awesome idea! I love it
I love it, one change. On your table holding bolts drill 4 holes outside your pattren to bolt it to the base parts so you can still use the clamp down holes youve lost bolting it down.
Last this system is brilliant, I see an ability to add draws to the bottom to hold bits in.
Nice prototype but probably better mass production would use aircraft aluminum
And if you need a larger fence 8020 had larger stock that wider, in fact a t slot system could also work like a bridgport mill , you could also make 1/2 of it fold for off 90dgr holes.
I like this. Where's mine?
Excellent points.
Yes I'm considering additional tapped holes around the centre for this reason
Drawers were a consideration, but I have a metal stand under the drill (with a terrible plywood top) I need to overhaul that and maybe add drawers there
Your table is in your head and some material stock, it's just up to you to find it!
Awesome build dude, there's a lot of good stuff you've implemented! Incredibly handy
The spinning plug insert you mentioned will freespin once you've made contact - I imagine you'll have others with a larger bore for if you're doing large(r) diameter drilling?
Thanks for watching!
Yes, I imagine I have a series of zero clearance inserts to go in the bore based on drill bit size
@@TomMakeHere happy days! Love your work mate.
@@StyxHackshop Cheers!
@@TomMakeHere Why do you need something in there at all, once you've aligned the table with the brass item and removed it? Is it to keep the hole clear of swarf (which seems ample justification, BTW)
@@Gottenhimfella When drilling small parts they need support underneath to stop them tilting. I could keep it open yes
How I would LOVE to be able to work metal (I work in wood) I would love a budget mill to learn on. You're an inspiration Tom. And you make it look SOOOOO easy that I know it isn't.😶🌫
I'm going the other way and venturing into wood work ha ha
I started from a small minimill and worked my way up, it's a learning journey, but fun if you like precision and perfect fits
As someone who has worked with metal for almost 10 years, I have always wanted to get into wood. Seems so much more complicated!
You’ve done to your drill press what I plan to do on my vertical bandsaw, think you could use one too!
Yep, I'm impressed
Thanks! It's very useful
Tom you do outstanding work. And very precise .
Thanks for watching!
fantastic ! brilliant design.. Thanks for sharing
thanks, glad to inspire where I can
Amazing!
You managed to turn a $200 drill press to a $2000 ultra drill press 👍
Thanks! It's a great upgrade
Marvelous and well thought out. Unfortunately I don’t have a mill or 90° mill head.
Thanks. There are plenty of options for any build.
The table could be any flat material; aluminium, plywood etc.
The 90° head was a nice-to-have option, changing the work holding could achieve the same result, or a bolt on T-track could serve the same result
good job - consider cleaning rust off blanks to make your cutting edges last longer.
The inserts were already dull, so I wasn't too bothered. I tend to use them for far longer than I should because I'm cheap lol
Wow, really nice video and tutorial!! Thanks for sharing!!!
Thanks for watching!
Yep, that's a sub.
Very nice and concise mods. Everything you did was dying to get a spot on this video. I suppose there were others that didn't make the cut this time. As a new fabricator this is candystore level ideas.
Thanks for watching and sub!
Yep, that's usually what I aim to do on this channel, just make a big dump of ideas, have fun and hopefully inspire or help someone out there
EXCELLENT presentation Thankyou Thankyou Thankyou..........
THhanks!
This was outstanding, thank you. I need one of those now.
Thanks! Build one!
Nice project. Welcome back!
Thanks!
very clever! Thanks for sharing this.
Cheers! Thanks for watching
Very clever and a very nice piece of work.
Thank you
Super DP table build Tom👍✔💯
Thanks! Glad you like it
Beautiful. My drill press is 20 year old Harbor Freight garbage and needs to be replaced. Making this table would be a good reason to buy a decent drill press. No new, affordable drill presses come with these features. Well done.
Thanks, old iron can sometimes be better though. Maybe it just needs some tweaks to make it better
Great idea, nice project, well executed
Thanks!
Welcome back!
Thanks, I just need more time in the workshop
A fine job !
What an outstanding project!!
Thanks! It was fun to make
best end to a video ever........
😂
Some really smart solutions implemented there! 👍🙂
Thanks! I had fun building this
Great project! 👍 🇬🇧
Cheers!
interested if the spinny drill into thing affects how the burs are formed on the bottom edge of holes? awesome table earned a sub!
Yes, I drilled some brackets just today and there are no burrs formed which I was very pleased about
First time on your channel. Very good work.
Thanks for watching!
inventive and great video work
Cheers. Thanks for watching
Great job! Thanks for the idea.
No problem!
When you skinned that original piece of material, did it not bow or warp on you??? I would have expected that? Did you surface it more than once perhaps?
It wasn't too bad just milled. I could surface grind it, but probably overkill for a drill press table
When drilling thin sheet steel with a conventional drill bit (twist drill) there's a real risk, when breaking through, that the drill creates a lobed hole which acts like a nut on a leadscrew with a VERY coarse helix. This can cause the workpiece to jump off the table without any provocation but extremely suddenly. The moment it gets above the level of the fence it does a lifelike impression of a rotary scythe.
It happens only rarely, but that makes it all the more likely to catch people unawares. And explains why it is not a well-known contingency.
I think it would be a good idea to suggest to impressionable viewers that in such cases they rig a toggle clamp to quickly hold each workpiece down.
For repetition work, some sideways projecting, overhanging item, which the workpiece could easily be slid under, might be worth considering. Perhaps a piece of rod bent into a U, and then inserted in a vice with the plain legs protruding upwards, so they can be bent over at maybe 30 degrees. The result would look a bit like a ski tip. This could plug into a couple of holes equispaced in the vertical face of the fence, to straddle and surround the drill. The underside could be say 5mm above the deck, anything thicker should probably be clamped.
I like the overhanging shelf idea, I would probably just clamp something down that provides a shelf and slide the parts under that. Or clamp the part directly for a one-off
A zero clearance insert will also reduce the tendency to grab
The fence is also a great safety feature as it prevents the part from spinning so long as the part isn't drawn up
Thanks for the comment!
@@TomMakeHere It does not happen rarely.....it happens often.
With all the holes why not make a hold down.? The time use it is negligible,,,,,compared to the time away from the shop getting stitches and then spending another 1/2 day getting them out.
Good well crafted and well thought out , a definite like and sub .
Thanks!
I had fun making it
That’s a lot of work mate, but we’ll worth it in the end… unfortunately I don’t have the equipment to be able to make that set up, but one day maybe :) well done, that’s an amazing design…
You could make it with much simpler tools if you wanted. Aluminium profiles bolted together would be a great choice for the table for example
Dang, very impressive!
Cheers!
Great video!
Curious to hear your thoughts about chemical removal of rust and mill scale before machining.
For those minus a mill, perhaps a wood and hardwood plywood version to start?
I've not really played a lot with chemical rust removal. I usually use a wire wheel.
I was lazy and used the mill, I'm intending to tear it down and give it a clean soon, so I thought a bit more dirt won't hurt in the short term.
Absolutely wood could be used. T track could be inserted as guides for the fence. Or aluminium could be used
well done
Very cool work.
Thanks!
Just an everyday joe with his simple tools and unlimited money!
I've worked my way to where I am over 10 years
a thing of beauty
Cheers!
Some great ideas for rough work, where precision is not that vital!
That is the idea, make it quick and easy
good video Tom
Thanks
Looks like a winner
Thanks, it's great!
It's amazing 👍👍
Nice work. Can someone tell me what the clamps that might fit into the grooves in my drill press table in order to hold work steady are called and where I can get some?
Thanks
You are probably after a T nut / T bolt I suspect. You might be able to get away with a regular bolt if you grind the head a bit shorter, or a small piece of flat bar with a tapped hole to accept a bolt
@@TomMakeHere Only problem is...I don't have t slots in the drill press table. It has horizontal grooves, flush, on top and on the bottom it is curved.
Great work Tom, accuracy/repeated...But 0.5mm will never equal 0.013" thou...How about a digital scale stuck to the top of the rail, the top stops could be locked in by a cam action bolt, save having to find the Allen key everytime...
Betcha there are tables out there costing way more than the cost to build this. I'm sharing this with the shop I used to work in. How does it travel with thicker materials, larger holes or non-square pieces?
Larger holes may be an issue depending on your torque as it might knock your fence if it's not locked down well enough. The table seems to suit my drill press fine in holes up to 16 mm so far, and it 12 mm steel
Non square pieces may require you to clamp it down to prevent it moving
Very nice work, now I have a project for this weekend.
Go for it!
Oh, welcome back online, Tom! I've been missing your accent, mait))
Is it you having got some new toys (read: video equipment) or it's me who have forgotten what your videos look like?
Cheers mate :)
Nah, nothing has changed at my end, it's just been a while I reckon
Liked. Subbed.
I'm impressed with the drill stop idea, did you come up with that for yourself or have you seen it elsewhere? I'm not planning to make such a table for myself but I think I might experiment with making just that part for my existing table. Thanks for sharing the idea.
I think I will experiment with putting an old motorcycle valve spring under the spinning button so that larger diameter drill bits will be able to go all the way through the work. I'll just have to be careful to make sure the spring is wound in the correct direction so that any twisting action on it doesn't react upwards.
The alignment button is similar to something I already do but I use a parallel pin and hole. Now that I have seen your idea I'm thinking an old timkin wheel bearing might be a way of accurately aligning with the chuck axis. By running the chuck and pressing down it should align to the centre of quill play. Now I'll just have to think of a way of holding the timkin cup where I need it to be...
Good job Tom... you've got me thinking
Not sure what you mean by the drill stop?
The flip down stops are common in woodworking tools, and I stole the idea from there
The button in the middle was just meant to be a replaceable insert, but the fact that it spins was somewhat of a realisation after I'd made it!
My table is hollow if I take out the button apart from the plunger. But it could probably be modified so that it easily lifts out the top, opening up the bore
Thanks for watching! Always happy to inspire ideas!
@@TomMakeHere Serendipity at its best. Yeah, by drill stop I was referring to the button in the middle.
I wish I had the space and tools to do this.
It's a gradual build up. I started working in the driveway with an angle grinder and a cheap welder about 13 years ago
It seems like a lot of added weight for your drill press to support, aluminum may have been a better choice of material.
It is a good point, the original table was cast iron, this is heavier but not by heaps.
Aluminium profile would make an excellent table choice though as it is nice and flat, and the v profile extrusions would eliminate the need for the tapped holes
Beautiful
Thanks!
That is Fu*king Awesome…👍👍
Cheers mate, thanks for watching!
Yes, but what are you gonna turn the old table into?
To be confirmed!
Love it.
Thanks!
cool idea
Thanks!
That's really super
Thanks!
What kind of spray wax do you use? Thanks - Phil
I just used Feast and Watson timber spray wax
Thanks for watching
Very nice
Thank you
Self made tools are often the best tools.
That's right!
quick question, why do you need drill press when you have mill?
Quick drilling setups for fabrication where a mill is overkill and would take longer to set up
Plus if there is a jig set up at the mill partway through another job I'd need to tear it down
Bloody awesome Tom 👍 but what about the cup holder😁
Next video then...
I'll look forward to seeing that next week 🤣🍺
Top job mate 👍🇦🇺
Thanks for watching!
delightful
Thanks
brilliant!
Thanks!
Excellent project, thanks for sharing. No use to me though as I only own a rusty hammer and a blunt saw :(
Thanks!
Never too late to start this addiction of collecting tools!
Me parece muy bueno se le agrades.por su video
¡Gracias por ver!
Since your drill is round, you only need to move one side of your fence. The other side would be pinned. Yes, you would need a different scale, but that should not be difficult.
Correct. That would work perfectly.
As you say, the scale would just have to be in line with drilling location
Thanks for watching
These comments are a Game Changer!