Mont-Blanc du Tacul Supercouloir Boivin Gabarrou 1975 direct departure and summit Mountaineering

April 2014, mountaineering, mountain, ice gully... Chamonix Mont-Blanc massif... Mont-Blanc du Tacul, Supercouloir... Direct departure, summit... Snow ice and mixed 800 meters... Open from 18 May 20, 1975 by Jean-Marc Boivin and Patrick Gabarrou... Thanks to Luc Mongellaz and Rémi Peschier (rope 2: Simon Wiegeth and Morgan Périsse)...
00:00 Bivouac Aiguille du Midi.
00:30 Approach Glacier du Géant.
00:40 Rimaye.
01:08 Bottom mixed, L1.
01:20 Mixed bottom, L2.
02:50 Mixed bottom, L3.
04:27 Median chute, lower part.
06:50 Median chute, upper part.
11:54 Median chute, last wall.
14:55 Mixed from the top. Ice and snow slope.
16:10 Mixed from the top. Mixed middle and following snow slope.
18:05 Mixed from the top. Corner exit from the slope.
18:33 Final ridge part 1, mixed.
20:00 Final ridge part 2, rock in 4.
22:00 Final ridge end in snow.
10:30 p.m. Summit of Mont-Blanc du Tacul.
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The Supercouloir is one of the most beautiful races of this type in the Mont Blanc massif. It separates the Gervasutti pillar (on the right) from the Three Points pillar (on the left). It is a very long, very narrow and very steep corridor. In summer, there is neither snow nor ice and there are many rock falls. It is therefore necessary to climb this chute in glacial conditions, generally in the fall, winter or spring.
Route history
1st ascent: May 18 to 20, 1975 - Jean-Marc Boivin, Patrick Gabarrou.
First bivouac at 4 pitches above the bergschrund, second at the exit of the Gervasutti pillar - 32 hours of effective climbing.
- www.camptocamp.org/routes/549...