The lill backwards turn you made with the screw @ 8:51 is so important when screwing into plastic. I always make a point of mentioning this when showing people how to work on things. David, I'm also always impressed with the quality of the terminations you put on wiring. Thanks for sharing the detail on this project!
Thank you for the kind comment! I do custom modification and commissioning work on industrial panels, so this is something I have taken home from work. This method keeps stray strands at bay, and also is more compact than other methods. You're very correct about the screw installation method. Failing to properly engage the screw with the threads in the plastic will usually split something.
your username tells me you had dialup in north AL in the 90's, hell its the only reason I clicked. great move on keeping the killawatt alive with the switch off.
Thanks for your comment! Yes, I subscribed to hiwaay dot net way back in the day. I don't even remember how long ago it was but I've had the same email address since I got on the internet. Glad you enjoyed the video about the switch box!
This is the video I’ve been waiting for! A few years ago, I built my own box using one of your shared diagrams, but seeing it assembled live is on another level. Your latest design has so many brilliant improvements, and I’m inspired to modify mine after watching this. You have an incredible talent for taking complex concepts and making them simple to understand. Thank you for sharing your expertise!
I found this channel when i bought a 40s GE fridge a few years back for my shop. I continue to watch because of your content! Its awesome. As a manufacturing maintenance tech for 25 years i love fixing things. To see you save these works of art is so enjoyable. Ive assumed how your switch box works, but there was a few aspects i hadnt considered. Thanks for taking the time to not only show how but explain why. Love it.
you are absolutely awesome: so -enjoyable , simple to listen & learn from; most appreciated for your straight forwarded, honesty, down-to-Earth-approaches. ;( & watch , listen,learn, do, make...) & best-off: WHY😜😇😎presentations . all explained so-well...STELLAR AS A PRESENTER TO ANY-LEVEL-OF APTITUDE ... BRAVO 😎😎😎😎😎 MOST-APPRECIATED-BY-ALL..., I'M-SURE, ALWAYS. thank you ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️...
What a great hack! I would do one more thing - use one of plug in covers to keep kids from poking things into electrical outlets to cover the outlet on the meter itself. Otherwise in a moment of not thinking, I'm sure I would accidentally plug a device under test directly into the meter rather than on the switched outlet next to it.
Thanks! I appreciate your comments, as always. You have a good point, but I have to admit I do use the unswitched outlet sometimes. For instance, if I am using a light or an oil heater on a fridge under test, I might only switch the compressor through the outlet, but use the unswitched outlet for the others.
Thanks for this, I saw this contraption in your other videos and always wondered how it worked. I used to own the original Kill-a-watt, now a fan of the cheesy Chinese "Wiring Type Power Monitor" available on Amazon. It seems reasonably accurate except for the frequency, that only reads to the nearest 10Hz! I've only ever seen it display 50 or 60, nothing in between.
Thanks for posting this David! I'm going to try my hand at building one of these. I've bought the nomex 410 insulation paper and a Poniie meter. It was hard to see on the video but how did you connect your two gang boxes together?
It should be on the live, but when you are dealing with single phase it will work the same either way but this way it would not measure a ground fault if one were to occur. This is how the meter was designed, not my idea. I just had to build this around the meter I had.
I have a question for you but it is off-topic: I have a Westinghouse flat top soda multidrink machine from the 50s/60s. I got it running and it cools great and got the vending motor running via temporary closed push button so the coin counter is bypassed. The only problem is the thermostat has failed in the closed (always on) position so it will run 24/7 to the point of freezing the drinks into ice (if I allow it to go that long). Do you have a generic modern replacement thermostat system that you recommend and do I need some kind of delay-on relay to protect the motor to account for power outtages or if/when the tstat triggers too rapidly?
Most fan-forced coolers like that need a constant-cut-in thermostat, such as a Ranco A12-700. That will allow for cold beverages but will ensure the coils defrost between each cycle. The sensing probe from the A12-700 should be inserted into the fins of the evaporator, carefully avoiding the fan blade.
The only thing sad about your videos is the reach. It makes me sad that few people in America care to learn about this stuff. Free instructions from a master and only a few show up.
Thanks for your comment Jeremy. Part of that is probably my fault. Many of these videos I share unlisted on different groups; versus making them public. I used to get too many non-constructive comments when publishing them directly. But now it seems things are better. You are correct that few people are interested in learning hands-on repair techniques any more. They have drank the proverbial cool-aid of throw away items. Once that stream dries up, there are going to be many people left high and dry.
David has helped me tremendously the past month and especially the past couple days in troubleshooting and repairing my mother and father in laws first refrigerator! I love these videos. I work in the oil and gas industry and come across interesting testing and troubleshooting equipment from the early to mid 20th century. I’ll send some to you if you are interested!
Thank you for making this video! My mind has been wondering about this forever!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Your attention to detail and explanation are fantastic, another well done video!
Thank you!
Ah, the much anticipated switch box video. Great instructions as always. Going to have to build myself one of these. Thank You!
Glad it helped!
Great job, I enjoy all of your videos. You sir are the Bob Ross of you tube please keep up the good work.
@@adamgarrison4400 Happy little fridges.
Thanks for your comment!
The lill backwards turn you made with the screw @ 8:51 is so important when screwing into plastic. I always make a point of mentioning this when showing people how to work on things.
David, I'm also always impressed with the quality of the terminations you put on wiring. Thanks for sharing the detail on this project!
Thank you for the kind comment! I do custom modification and commissioning work on industrial panels, so this is something I have taken home from work. This method keeps stray strands at bay, and also is more compact than other methods.
You're very correct about the screw installation method. Failing to properly engage the screw with the threads in the plastic will usually split something.
your username tells me you had dialup in north AL in the 90's, hell its the only reason I clicked.
great move on keeping the killawatt alive with the switch off.
Thanks for your comment!
Yes, I subscribed to hiwaay dot net way back in the day. I don't even remember how long ago it was but I've had the same email address since I got on the internet.
Glad you enjoyed the video about the switch box!
This is the video I’ve been waiting for! A few years ago, I built my own box using one of your shared diagrams, but seeing it assembled live is on another level. Your latest design has so many brilliant improvements, and I’m inspired to modify mine after watching this. You have an incredible talent for taking complex concepts and making them simple to understand. Thank you for sharing your expertise!
Thanks so much for the kind comment. I am happy that you have duplicated my box and found it useful!
Too cool!!! I'd be so tempted to put a little vintage indicator lamp on the box. Preferably a little red glass bead one with a cool hood lol
Thanks for your comment! That is a good idea about the indicator.
I found this channel when i bought a 40s GE fridge a few years back for my shop. I continue to watch because of your content! Its awesome. As a manufacturing maintenance tech for 25 years i love fixing things. To see you save these works of art is so enjoyable. Ive assumed how your switch box works, but there was a few aspects i hadnt considered. Thanks for taking the time to not only show how but explain why. Love it.
Thanks for your comment! I am glad you are enjoying my videos and were able to get your GE working for your shop. Those 40's ones last forever!
I appreciate all of your videos. Unmatched content you will not find elsewhere
Thanks for your comment!
I really appreciate your videos, and I look forward to them. I have learned a lot from them! Thank you
Glad you are benefitting from my videos! Thanks for the comment.
you are absolutely awesome: so -enjoyable , simple to listen & learn from; most appreciated for your straight forwarded, honesty, down-to-Earth-approaches. ;( & watch , listen,learn, do, make...) & best-off: WHY😜😇😎presentations . all explained so-well...STELLAR AS A PRESENTER TO ANY-LEVEL-OF APTITUDE ...
BRAVO 😎😎😎😎😎
MOST-APPRECIATED-BY-ALL..., I'M-SURE, ALWAYS.
thank you
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️...
Thank you for your comment!
Always wondered how this hack worked
Now you know!
What a great hack! I would do one more thing - use one of plug in covers to keep kids from poking things into electrical outlets to cover the outlet on the meter itself. Otherwise in a moment of not thinking, I'm sure I would accidentally plug a device under test directly into the meter rather than on the switched outlet next to it.
Thanks! I appreciate your comments, as always.
You have a good point, but I have to admit I do use the unswitched outlet sometimes. For instance, if I am using a light or an oil heater on a fridge under test, I might only switch the compressor through the outlet, but use the unswitched outlet for the others.
@@davida1hiwaaynet Good point! There is a use for the unswitched outlet!
Very clever! Thank you David!
Thanks for your comment!
As always a great job of work and instruction.
Thank you!
Thank you very much! I have been needing a way to test my motors safely.
Thanks for your comment!
Pretty durn cool David.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video. I thought the noise was rain
Here is details on exactly what it was! ua-cam.com/video/G-TSStm_zmc/v-deo.html
Thank you!!!
Thanks for your comment!
Thanks for this, I saw this contraption in your other videos and always wondered how it worked. I used to own the original Kill-a-watt, now a fan of the cheesy Chinese "Wiring Type Power Monitor" available on Amazon. It seems reasonably accurate except for the frequency, that only reads to the nearest 10Hz! I've only ever seen it display 50 or 60, nothing in between.
Thanks! Question: Does the Kil-a-watt measure the neutral side the same as the Poniie meter?
Thanks! And yes the Kill-A-Watt measures in the same manner via the neutral side.
I am going to make me one .Thanks
Sounds like a flowing water soda machine in the background!
It is the agitator from such a machine; under test.
Thanks for posting this David! I'm going to try my hand at building one of these. I've bought the nomex 410 insulation paper and a Poniie meter. It was hard to see on the video but how did you connect your two gang boxes together?
Current should be measured on the active side
It should be on the live, but when you are dealing with single phase it will work the same either way but this way it would not measure a ground fault if one were to occur. This is how the meter was designed, not my idea. I just had to build this around the meter I had.
I have a question for you but it is off-topic: I have a Westinghouse flat top soda multidrink machine from the 50s/60s. I got it running and it cools great and got the vending motor running via temporary closed push button so the coin counter is bypassed. The only problem is the thermostat has failed in the closed (always on) position so it will run 24/7 to the point of freezing the drinks into ice (if I allow it to go that long). Do you have a generic modern replacement thermostat system that you recommend and do I need some kind of delay-on relay to protect the motor to account for power outtages or if/when the tstat triggers too rapidly?
Most fan-forced coolers like that need a constant-cut-in thermostat, such as a Ranco A12-700. That will allow for cold beverages but will ensure the coils defrost between each cycle. The sensing probe from the A12-700 should be inserted into the fins of the evaporator, carefully avoiding the fan blade.
The only thing sad about your videos is the reach. It makes me sad that few people in America care to learn about this stuff. Free instructions from a master and only a few show up.
Thanks for your comment Jeremy. Part of that is probably my fault. Many of these videos I share unlisted on different groups; versus making them public. I used to get too many non-constructive comments when publishing them directly. But now it seems things are better. You are correct that few people are interested in learning hands-on repair techniques any more. They have drank the proverbial cool-aid of throw away items. Once that stream dries up, there are going to be many people left high and dry.
David has helped me tremendously the past month and especially the past couple days in troubleshooting and repairing my mother and father in laws first refrigerator! I love these videos. I work in the oil and gas industry and come across interesting testing and troubleshooting equipment from the early to mid 20th century. I’ll send some to you if you are interested!
Well said Jeremy. David is truly a master and I really appreciate his knowledge and skillset for showing and teaching others.
noice but i think ive made a better one
Hope it's better than your punctuation skills.