Thanks as always David. You always give great information to the viewers. Every job has a HACK and for a nonprofessional that may try this once on an old unit it is a great way to DIY it. Now why not show the professional way to do it so the viewers can see both ways side by side. Keep up the great work.
Excellent video! I watched a lot of your automotive content since I own old Chevy's and even converted my two squarebodies to 152a. Got 38 degree air coming out of a dual air burb and an R4 compressor.
Thank you, I really appreciate your comment; and watching my videos! I have been using R152A in all my cars for years now and it does exceptionally well. Had a friend who is a purist ride with me and he became grumpy and irritable when my air was colder than his R12 he paid out the wazoo for.
Great tutorial David! Recognizing people will hack things and trying to show them how as best as possible to do things under the circumstances is really worthwhile!
Thanks! I appreciate it. This is true - people will try anything. Back in the day, there was a lot of guesswork going on. Now, people use Google and get wrong and dangerous AI-generated results which are causing havoc. I don't mind spending time explaining things to those who will listen, but having to repeat the same thing over and over is very time consuming. I hope that I can point people to this video when they ask, and save myself some time and them some worry.
I'm thinking a coating of epoxy around the leaker valve would help prevent leaks? This kind of valve is perfect for the guy like me who just wants a cheap, fun user of a fridge in the garage or patio! I wouldn't send a fridge out to someone with this valve, but I myself wouldn't mind babysitting it and doing a top up every few years or so. So this video is perfect and hits home for a lot of people I think! I suuure do Ppreciate it!
Another great video, you do the things that we used to LOL. i've used bullet valves for years. like everything else, you get what you pay for. And that's a big plus when management doesn't want to go all out to save a unit. And yes, we used to use R12 and R22 for leak detection with a flame leak detector. LOL Look for the green flame..😊
Thanks so much for the lesson. I recently picked up a 60s Pepsi machine and was told it may be low on charge. Both fans and thermostat (coil mounted probe) seem to be working. The machine ran for hours and would only get to around 50-degree temp. I noticed the suction line would frost up starting at the compressor for about 10 inches. It would instantly defrost when the compressor cycled. The temp outside was around 70 degrees. my low side pressure was about 17. Is this over charged? Again, thanks for the lesson. I am going to subscribe, and I will sure check out your other vids!
This is the best site!! Everything was going perfect. The unit was getting cold and then It wasnt'. It oped a hole right next to the capillary tube. and I would say all gas leaked! So.....Once i address this leak can I pull a vacum and add more dust-off and get this up and running again. Any help is really appreciated!
A Westinghouse? They are famous for corrosion holes forming right at the point where the cap tube goes in the condenser. I fixed many of those. I typically cut off the outlet off the condensing very short and then solder in a copper tube to replace it.
@@davida1hiwaaynet I believe I got the hole fixed by the cap tube. Now I'm completely new to all this as you know by now. I tried to cheap out on the vacuum process and picked up the Pittsburgh unit from Harbor freight that hooks to an air compressor. My problem is i don't think the compressor is big enough Craftsman 125 PSI 12 Gallon. I start at 125PSI but it backs off to 40 PSI pretty quick I may have to get a regular vacuum pump. I have the blue line open and going to the low side and the yellow line to the vacuum pump that goes to the compressor. If I understand it right Red valve closed and no hose connected. I may have to get a regular vacuum pump. If I do what should the gauge read when the vacuum is complete? Can I start from square one and add the dust-off again when the vacuum is complete? By now you're probably thinking why doesn't this guy just give up. lol I'm stubborn I guess.....Thank you!
Hey David, how do you know what size cap tube to pick for a new high side line? I have a 1952 westinghouse fridge that i changed the compressor and unfortunately most of the cap line was ruined by the previous owner when they tried to fix it (ruined as in missing lol) I'm trying to tie in the new compressor and know the right size suction line but is there a method to determine was size cap tube to use?
They actually have charts included with new cap tube! You need to know the original refrigerant spec for the system, compressor horsepower, and the evaporator temperature toward the middle of the run cycle.
i have a question. you said some company use to use freon 500. which was a mix of r-12 and r-152a. . so would it be safe assume that r-152a can be used with either pag oil and/or mineral oil , like in your other videos when you did your car with r-152a ?
Thanks for the comment. There's no simple answer, unfortunately. Automotive A/C is a different animal when it comes to lubrication and oil flow within the system. These systems have very high cooling BTU capacity with a small charge and very lightweight compressor. Engineers have fought with lubrication concerns for decades as they have obtained higher capacities and less weight in these components. There is typically little or no oil sump in many auto A/C compressors. They depend on a constant mist of oil (and in some cases liquid refrigerant droplets) in the return gas from the refrigeration circuit. This oil is used to cool and lubricate the compressor, and is all pumped through the compressor discharge with the refrigerant gas. Even very short disruptions to this lubrication flow can cause damage to the compressor. These systems need a combination of oil and refrigerant which blend together fully (they are miscible) similar to mixing gasoline and oil for a two-stroke engine. To allow this to be a feasible lubrication scheme, very high performance oils were engineered for these systems. PAG oil is one of the best lubricants for these systems for a variety of reasons. Unfortunately, the solvent properties it possesses allow it to soften and swell the electrical insulation inside electric compressors. Automotive compressors need this oil for proper lubrication. Using mineral oil would likely not provide adequate lubrication at the required temperatures and running speeds encountered. Older automotive systems used mineral oil and R12, which are fully miscible. These systems used high viscosity oils, and many had oil sumps to maintain lubrication to the compressor at all times. The compressors were much heavier than newer designs and were not as highly stressed as the newer designs requiring more exotic oils. Electric compressors (as shown here; with older medium temperature coolers) have an oil sump which traps oil and provides forced lubrication to the moving parts of the compressor, via an internal lubrication system. They don't depend on a constant mist of oil coming in via the suction line. Most electric compressors work best with a dry, superheated vapor return to the suction port. Because the compressor is working with vapor only, the solubility of the oil in the liquid phase of the refrigerant is not as important. The oil does need to be able to remain liquid and move through the system at evaporator temperatures, so it needs to have an adequate pour point and viscosity for the system. So to summarize, automotive A/C is highly stressed and needs oil and refrigerant which mix like a two-cycle engine's oil and gas. Small amount of highly engineered oil which circulates constantly and has to fully mix with the refrigerant liquid. R152A and PAG oil are fully miscible and work well in these systems. Older design electric compressors have a very large oil volume in them. Most of that oil stays in the compressor housing and circulates within the compressor housing. Very little oil circulates in the system. The compressor mainly pumps "dry" superheated vapor. Refrigerant liquid and oil solubility is not very important, so long as the oil doesn't solidify in the evaporator. At medium temperature operation temps that isn't going to be a problem. Hopefully this helps explain it!
I'm converting a mains fridge to 12v using a camping fridge compressor and R152a. Do I really need to use a different manifold to avoid oil contamination?
If your manifold gauge has been exposed to automotive A/C compressor oil, you should not use that for your electric compressor. Especially if it is a new compressor; if it goes bad and they see damage to the winding they will not stand behind it.
There are several commercially available refrigerants which will work in place of R12. Most of them are blends and are engineered for larger systems having several pounds of refrigerant and long distances of tubing between the condensing unit and evaporators. These are expensive, many are going through phase-out, and as with all blended refrigerants they have drawbacks. Never use any hydrocarbon refrigerants containing propane or butane in these systems. It will soften and swell the rubber seals present in antique compressors. I would not recommend using any other gas aside from R152A; or locating new-old-stock R-12 (not any of the other "fake-12" automotive replacements.) I can vouch for nothing other than what I showed in this video.
No sir; propane is not acceptable for these systems. Wrong pressure-temperature characteristic and also will swell and soften rubber parts inside the compressor.
Thanks David! I appreciate your effort to educate people!
EXCELLENT video David. I appreciate you explaining the differences between the automotive stuff & non-automotive stuff.
Thanks! I am delighted that it helped explain a few things.
I learn so much from your patient teaching. Thank you for the effort you put into your videos.
Something I've learned from all your AC presentations is to be patient. It's something I struggle with...
Thanks as always David. You always give great information to the viewers. Every job has a HACK and for a nonprofessional that may try this once on an old unit it is a great way to DIY it. Now why not show the professional way to do it so the viewers can see both ways side by side. Keep up the great work.
As a DIYer, this video is pure gold, including the theory. Thanks a million...
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video! I watched a lot of your automotive content since I own old Chevy's and even converted my two squarebodies to 152a. Got 38 degree air coming out of a dual air burb and an R4 compressor.
Thank you, I really appreciate your comment; and watching my videos! I have been using R152A in all my cars for years now and it does exceptionally well. Had a friend who is a purist ride with me and he became grumpy and irritable when my air was colder than his R12 he paid out the wazoo for.
Great tutorial David! Recognizing people will hack things and trying to show them how as best as possible to do things under the circumstances is really worthwhile!
Thanks! I appreciate it. This is true - people will try anything. Back in the day, there was a lot of guesswork going on. Now, people use Google and get wrong and dangerous AI-generated results which are causing havoc. I don't mind spending time explaining things to those who will listen, but having to repeat the same thing over and over is very time consuming. I hope that I can point people to this video when they ask, and save myself some time and them some worry.
@@davida1hiwaaynet Never even thought of AI generated advice in this case - yes - some of the AI stuff is so wrong its dangerous!
I'm thinking a coating of epoxy around the leaker valve would help prevent leaks? This kind of valve is perfect for the guy like me who just wants a cheap, fun user of a fridge in the garage or patio! I wouldn't send a fridge out to someone with this valve, but I myself wouldn't mind babysitting it and doing a top up every few years or so. So this video is perfect and hits home for a lot of people I think! I suuure do Ppreciate it!
Thank you for all that you do!
i love the sound of a old compressor
Thank you David, great video and superb explanations of not just what to do but also why. Really enjoyed this video.. Regards Barry from the UK
Many thanks!
Excellent educational video David!
Thank you!
Very nice repair job on the refrigerant leak
Thanks 👍
As always thank you!
Another great video, you do the things that we used to LOL. i've used bullet valves for years. like everything else, you get what you pay for. And that's a big plus when management doesn't want to go all out to save a unit. And yes, we used to use R12 and R22 for leak detection with a flame leak detector. LOL Look for the green flame..😊
Thanks! Those flame leak detectors were pretty sensitive. It is quite amazing that tiny leaks could color the flame.
Definitely interesting AND useful-well done!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
thanks for the video David.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Appreciate the knowledge!! Good info. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much!
You're welcome!
Thanks so much for the lesson. I recently picked up a 60s Pepsi machine and was told it may be low on charge. Both fans and thermostat (coil mounted probe) seem to be working. The machine ran for hours and would only get to around 50-degree temp. I noticed the suction line would frost up starting at the compressor for about 10 inches. It would instantly defrost when the compressor cycled. The temp outside was around 70 degrees. my low side pressure was about 17. Is this over charged?
Again, thanks for the lesson. I am going to subscribe, and I will sure check out your other vids!
This is the best site!! Everything was going perfect. The unit was getting cold and then It wasnt'. It oped a hole right next to the capillary tube. and I would say all gas leaked! So.....Once i address this leak can I pull a vacum and add more dust-off and get this up and running again. Any help is really appreciated!
A Westinghouse? They are famous for corrosion holes forming right at the point where the cap tube goes in the condenser. I fixed many of those. I typically cut off the outlet off the condensing very short and then solder in a copper tube to replace it.
@@davida1hiwaaynet I believe I got the hole fixed by the cap tube. Now I'm completely new to all this as you know by now. I tried to cheap out on the vacuum process and picked up the Pittsburgh unit from Harbor freight that hooks to an air compressor. My problem is i don't think the compressor is big enough Craftsman 125 PSI 12 Gallon. I start at 125PSI but it backs off to 40 PSI pretty quick I may have to get a regular vacuum pump. I have the blue line open and going to the low side and the yellow line to the vacuum pump that goes to the compressor. If I understand it right Red valve closed and no hose connected. I may have to get a regular vacuum pump. If I do what should the gauge read when the vacuum is complete? Can I start from square one and add the dust-off again when the vacuum is complete? By now you're probably thinking why doesn't this guy just give up. lol I'm stubborn I guess.....Thank you!
Thank you. Great info. Good info for preppers, so we'll know how to keep things going after the Big One.
Hey David, how do you know what size cap tube to pick for a new high side line? I have a 1952 westinghouse fridge that i changed the compressor and unfortunately most of the cap line was ruined by the previous owner when they tried to fix it (ruined as in missing lol) I'm trying to tie in the new compressor and know the right size suction line but is there a method to determine was size cap tube to use?
They actually have charts included with new cap tube! You need to know the original refrigerant spec for the system, compressor horsepower, and the evaporator temperature toward the middle of the run cycle.
i have a question. you said some company use to use freon 500. which was a mix of r-12 and r-152a. . so would it be safe assume that r-152a can be used with either pag oil and/or mineral oil , like in your other videos when you did your car with r-152a ?
Thanks for the comment. There's no simple answer, unfortunately. Automotive A/C is a different animal when it comes to lubrication and oil flow within the system. These systems have very high cooling BTU capacity with a small charge and very lightweight compressor. Engineers have fought with lubrication concerns for decades as they have obtained higher capacities and less weight in these components. There is typically little or no oil sump in many auto A/C compressors. They depend on a constant mist of oil (and in some cases liquid refrigerant droplets) in the return gas from the refrigeration circuit. This oil is used to cool and lubricate the compressor, and is all pumped through the compressor discharge with the refrigerant gas. Even very short disruptions to this lubrication flow can cause damage to the compressor. These systems need a combination of oil and refrigerant which blend together fully (they are miscible) similar to mixing gasoline and oil for a two-stroke engine. To allow this to be a feasible lubrication scheme, very high performance oils were engineered for these systems. PAG oil is one of the best lubricants for these systems for a variety of reasons. Unfortunately, the solvent properties it possesses allow it to soften and swell the electrical insulation inside electric compressors. Automotive compressors need this oil for proper lubrication. Using mineral oil would likely not provide adequate lubrication at the required temperatures and running speeds encountered.
Older automotive systems used mineral oil and R12, which are fully miscible. These systems used high viscosity oils, and many had oil sumps to maintain lubrication to the compressor at all times. The compressors were much heavier than newer designs and were not as highly stressed as the newer designs requiring more exotic oils.
Electric compressors (as shown here; with older medium temperature coolers) have an oil sump which traps oil and provides forced lubrication to the moving parts of the compressor, via an internal lubrication system. They don't depend on a constant mist of oil coming in via the suction line. Most electric compressors work best with a dry, superheated vapor return to the suction port. Because the compressor is working with vapor only, the solubility of the oil in the liquid phase of the refrigerant is not as important. The oil does need to be able to remain liquid and move through the system at evaporator temperatures, so it needs to have an adequate pour point and viscosity for the system.
So to summarize, automotive A/C is highly stressed and needs oil and refrigerant which mix like a two-cycle engine's oil and gas. Small amount of highly engineered oil which circulates constantly and has to fully mix with the refrigerant liquid. R152A and PAG oil are fully miscible and work well in these systems.
Older design electric compressors have a very large oil volume in them. Most of that oil stays in the compressor housing and circulates within the compressor housing. Very little oil circulates in the system. The compressor mainly pumps "dry" superheated vapor. Refrigerant liquid and oil solubility is not very important, so long as the oil doesn't solidify in the evaporator. At medium temperature operation temps that isn't going to be a problem.
Hopefully this helps explain it!
I'm converting a mains fridge to 12v using a camping fridge compressor and R152a. Do I really need to use a different manifold to avoid oil contamination?
If your manifold gauge has been exposed to automotive A/C compressor oil, you should not use that for your electric compressor. Especially if it is a new compressor; if it goes bad and they see damage to the winding they will not stand behind it.
Out of curiosity, there is some other type of gas that could be used in place of r152a?
Propane
There are several commercially available refrigerants which will work in place of R12. Most of them are blends and are engineered for larger systems having several pounds of refrigerant and long distances of tubing between the condensing unit and evaporators. These are expensive, many are going through phase-out, and as with all blended refrigerants they have drawbacks.
Never use any hydrocarbon refrigerants containing propane or butane in these systems. It will soften and swell the rubber seals present in antique compressors.
I would not recommend using any other gas aside from R152A; or locating new-old-stock R-12 (not any of the other "fake-12" automotive replacements.) I can vouch for nothing other than what I showed in this video.
No sir; propane is not acceptable for these systems. Wrong pressure-temperature characteristic and also will swell and soften rubber parts inside the compressor.
@@davida1hiwaaynet I've seen it bootlegged in auto a/c-
@@horacerumpole6912 You'll notice how people doing that almost never have any longterm success follow-up on their experiment.