Hi Jacob, my Flava got attacked by snails 🐌! I repotted it after flushing out the soil to get rid of the eggs! But after watching this video, seems I will have to repot it! Thanks and keep up the good work!
You should be doing your dividing before the plant starts to grow in spring. So these “new” plants will start growing in spring just like they did before being divided.
I know I need to use either rain water or RO water for the plants, but would it be OK to use either water from my water softener or straight city water ( Vancouver WA, which has some chlorine ) to wash the roots in when dividing? I just have a small, under counter RO unit with approximately a 1 gallon tank. I collect rain water in 2 garbage cans in winter, but I run out of those in about 2 months after growing season starts and less rainfall, so hate to use that if I don't need to for division cleaning. Also, I don't like reporting any more than I have to, so why not put divisions in larger pots right off the bat? Or do they really need new soil mix every year?
Jacob, I would like to know how some growers always seem to have a dozen or more fully developed traps coming from one small pot. Has to be multi crowned but how does one do that? I have your vids on sarracenia care and how break divisions are done. What wasn't covered was a method of how to get multi crowned rhizomes. Is this possible? Also, is it possible to do a culturing like vfts are do to mass produce them? I'd love to get various flava types and do that kind of mass culturing. Thoghts?
If you leave a rhizome alone in the pot for a few years, most Sarracenia will tend to automatically produce multiple growth points on that rhizome - assuming they get plenty of sunlight, water and insects. Some growers report being able to use a notching technique on old healthy rhizomes to stimulate new growth points. Barry Rice or Peter D'Amato may have written about the method. I have not bothered with that, since I have many plants and have enough trouble keeping them from outgrowing their pots as it is. Several tissue culture companies claim to have managed tissue culture of Sarracenia, but it is difficult since the plants naturally harbor a number of viruses that interfere with the process. On the other hand, this last year I had a pitcher that broke free from a rhizome, essentially creating a leaf pulling. I just leaned the pitcher up against the side wall of the water pool. Two or three months later, I happened to notice it had developed some short roots - so I potted it up and it is doing fine. But that is the only time this has happened - on all other occasions the pitcher has died.
I use a mix of 10 Liter Peat Moss, 3,5 Liter Perlite and 2,5 Liter of Sand. Would it still be possible to increase the amount of perlite and sand to a higher percentage ?
Yes. The default mixture is 1:1, peat to perlite or perlite/sand - by volume. If I were using sand in my mixtures, which I don't, I would use 7 liters perlite and 3 liters sand to go with that 10 liters of peat moss. Be careful about the sand you use - you don't want any limestone in the mixture - pure quartz sand is best.
"And always remember: Roots down stems up,very easy" 🤣🤣🤣
Another great video, thank you Sarracenia Northwest!
Great video! Now I'm off to pot up a bunch of bare roots! Thanks for sharing!
Hi Jacob, my Flava got attacked by snails 🐌! I repotted it after flushing out the soil to get rid of the eggs! But after watching this video, seems I will have to repot it! Thanks and keep up the good work!
Thanks Jacob and Jeff! I love this time of year! Time to wake up the CPs!
Very informative, I've got some sarracenia in my bot garden, I will bear this in mind in a few years time when they start getting bigger.
Great vid, guys!
Thanks for this important information!!
After you cut the leaves and then split the plants up like this, how long does it usually take to start growing new pitchers?
You should be doing your dividing before the plant starts to grow in spring. So these “new” plants will start growing in spring just like they did before being divided.
Depends. If you divided in summer you should see them within days/weeks, if you did it in winter possibly a months or 2
I'm about to order from you guys ,cant weight, I have lots of pitcher plants but cant weight to see your sundews
Jeff, the placement of the rhizome in the pot is this position good for Sarracenia Leucophylla , I am in zone 7 in the state of Maryland.
I know I need to use either rain water or RO water for the plants, but would it be OK to use either water from my water softener or straight city water ( Vancouver WA, which has some chlorine ) to wash the roots in when dividing? I just have a small, under counter RO unit with approximately a 1 gallon tank. I collect rain water in 2 garbage cans in winter, but I run out of those in about 2 months after growing season starts and less rainfall, so hate to use that if I don't need to for division cleaning.
Also, I don't like reporting any more than I have to, so why not put divisions in larger pots right off the bat? Or do they really need new soil mix every year?
Jacob,
I would like to know how some growers always seem to have a dozen or more fully developed traps coming from one small pot. Has to be multi crowned but how does one do that? I have your vids on sarracenia care and how break divisions are done. What wasn't covered was a method of how to get multi crowned rhizomes. Is this possible? Also, is it possible to do a culturing like vfts are do to mass produce them? I'd love to get various flava types and do that kind of mass culturing. Thoghts?
If you leave a rhizome alone in the pot for a few years, most Sarracenia will tend to automatically produce multiple growth points on that rhizome - assuming they get plenty of sunlight, water and insects. Some growers report being able to use a notching technique on old healthy rhizomes to stimulate new growth points. Barry Rice or Peter D'Amato may have written about the method. I have not bothered with that, since I have many plants and have enough trouble keeping them from outgrowing their pots as it is.
Several tissue culture companies claim to have managed tissue culture of Sarracenia, but it is difficult since the plants naturally harbor a number of viruses that interfere with the process.
On the other hand, this last year I had a pitcher that broke free from a rhizome, essentially creating a leaf pulling. I just leaned the pitcher up against the side wall of the water pool. Two or three months later, I happened to notice it had developed some short roots - so I potted it up and it is doing fine. But that is the only time this has happened - on all other occasions the pitcher has died.
What soil did you use? I’ve been using pest moss for mine and I read that some can use sphagnum moss.
Is there any harm in planting in an oversized pot?
I use a mix of 10 Liter Peat Moss, 3,5 Liter Perlite and 2,5 Liter of Sand. Would it still be possible to increase the amount of perlite and sand to a higher percentage ?
Yes. The default mixture is 1:1, peat to perlite or perlite/sand - by volume. If I were using sand in my mixtures, which I don't, I would use 7 liters perlite and 3 liters sand to go with that 10 liters of peat moss.
Be careful about the sand you use - you don't want any limestone in the mixture - pure quartz sand is best.
Where do you get your pool liners ?
:)