Smyth Busters: Cleaning Will Wear Out a Barrel?
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- Опубліковано 25 лип 2024
- "Cleaning a barrel will shorten its life." That's the "fact-or-myth" scenario a viewer submitted to our Smyth Busters, Brownells Gun Techs™ Caleb and Steve. Is it true? The barrels of .22 rimfire guns are made of softer steel, and careless cleaning with a screw-together, sectioned steel rod without a bore guide CAN lead to permanent damage to the rifling. Ammonia-based solvent, commonly used to remove copper fouling, can pit the bore if it is not thoroughly flushed from the barrel. Copper fouling on .22s isn't difficult to remove with regular bore solvent, so there's usually no need for an aggressive ammonia-based solvent. Long-range precision rifle shooters clean their barrels a LOT, and their barrels do tend to wear out - because of the high number of rounds fired, not due to the cleaning. Cleaning a barrel regularly with a good polymer-coated cleaning rod will in no way shorten its life, especially if it's a chrome-lined or Nitrided barrel. So the myth that cleaning wears out a barrel is BUSTED - as long as you're not a heavy-handed cleaner. Fouling degrades accuracy and reduces bore life, so go ahead and clean your barrel AS NEEDED.
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This myth sounds the same to me as the "Dry fire can hurt your gun"
What could a brass brush do for damage that 150 grains of lead and copper moving 3000 fps under intense pressures and heat from an explosion in the chamber not cause?
Certain guns can be dry fired, but others cannot. Either way, just use snap-caps.
@@zoltancsikos5604 Guns can be dry fired. Certain guns cannot.
@@WallabieMcDee Rim fire guns aka 22LR should not be dry fired unless you have snap caps or dummy rounds in the chamber.
The dry fire paranoia is so pervasive, a friend of mine spent 20 minutes looking for his snap cap so he could fire his .22 before takedown when I was at his house.... same as this Myth in the video, don't sit and dry fire your gun all day but if you need to dry fire it once or twice a year to release the action, than dry fire it. It's going to hurt nothing
@@TyBardy This is why I don't like Buying used rim fire firearms. Too many mis treat their 22LR guns.
I use Frank's red hot, I put that shi+ on everything.
Ha ha ha!
Got a chuckle out of me, but I prefer Tapatio!
underrated comment 😂😂
LOL, that made my day. Thanks for the laugh.
Being vinegar based, there is actually some chemical cleaning action there.
The ammonia based bore solvent was news to me, so thanks for that!!
It's not an issue IF it's all cleaned out afterwards.
@@onpsxmember how do you make sure it's all out?
@@TerminalM193
Water or Water with some simple green extreme, not the regular kind. This type won't harm aluminum parts. The main thing is the water reacting with the ammonia, the bit of SG Extreme is just a degreaser that is often used for aeroplanes. Now you got a wet barrel but don't freak out. Machine parts get washed & degreased by any gunsmith in a washing station with water and a degreaser. First you get rid of most of the remaining water with pressurized air (wear goggles cause tiny metal parts flying around should be separate from eyeballs). There is still humidity in there so some warmth is needed. A heatgun will do the trick, an adapter to get all the hot air in the barrel is helpful but not necessary. Now you got a copper free, degreased and bone dry barrel. Draw an oil-patch through the bore (Don't forget it!) and you're done. That is mostly used by bench rest shooters with expensive stainless steel barrels. You can find further guides online how concentrated they want the ammonia solution and so on.
Yeah when ever I use that I always do a cold water rinse after, air dry with a hair dryer on cold setting and lube.
@@Whiskey5_
Why on cold setting? The barrel doesn't mind getting a bit of warmth.
3:29 I put wire insulation heat shrink on my rod. If you have one that isn't coated that is a viable option as well.
Sounds like safe sex…
That is actually pretty smart.
Pretty slick, no pun intended.
Great idea thanks for a second I was thinking clear tubing too.
NICE!! Doing that right now!
You guys have stepped into a minefield! When I used to compete in various long range matches and .22 competition we had guys that wanted their bore prestige and guys that would shoot you in if you came near their gun with a bore rod (that’s not literal to any Karen that sees it). My take is that I clean every bore, but only when dirty and generally with Bore Snakes. I occasionally loan guns to very good friends under the condition that they will not clean them on any way, shape or form. I’m a bit OCD about some things and cleaning my guns are one of them. When I learned how to build a benchrest or tactical precisions gun from guys like Thomas “Speedy” Gonzales I followed his breaking and cleaning religiously, but then back when I was in the Army, 1980s and 90s we used the sectional steel rod on M16s and M4s without any problems.
It really just depends upon the gun. I still shoot a good bit of Blackpowder and clean those like it’s a religious experience. So basically I haven’t added anything, I’ve just had too much coffee this morning. 😎
You added a great couple of anecdotes, and I'm glad to see the black powder community chiming in. I just left a comment about the corrosive salts in some surplus ammo, and referenced the relatively MASSIVE quantity of rust-inducing junk you guys have to deal with.
It's not even close to morning as I type this, but I'm still drinking coffee. I've nearly killed an entire 10-cup pot today... I think I have a problem. Cheers!
Soft aluminum rod is not going to do a darn thing to a steel barrel.
@@didamnesia3575 It's not the aluminum, it abrasives that embed into the softer metal.
Why not see a Dr. About fixing the OCD then you could trust your friends to clean.
Great channel, y’all do a fantastic job. Thanks for all the good advice and videos y’all do!
Thank you so much for doing this one!
Another great episode!
I learned something from you guys (again)
I used to use Boresnakes. Now i just run Wet Patches followed by dry patches until the barrel is dry. Ive realized a Spotless Clean barrel shoots like shit so i dont need my barrels to be Spotless anymore. Just run a wet patch, let it soak in, followed by dry patches until they come out clean. I personally feel all these new age Barrel Cleaning solvents and Products are a whole lot of marketing and nothing else.
How do you clean the bore snake?
You guys are so efficient. Love it!
"Back when I could see"
I laughed on the outside but cried on the inside. I am just hitting the point where I need glasses for any up close viewing.
Same here!
If it's bad enough it may be worth lasic.
@@onpsxmember I had that 17 years ago on both eyes. Left is still good, right slightly nearsighted again. I’m debating if I want the right done again, assuming it’s even doable.
@@M60E3MG It's worth finding out. If you wait too long you might not have the option anymore.
Good info. Especially regarding the ammonia-based solvents. Thanks!
Shooting through a barrel gives you three fouling materials:
1- copper
2- lead
3- carbon
Carbon attract moisture and leads to corrosion. Lead accumulates in your rifling, decreasing accuracy. Both can be potentially dangerous. A little of copper is actually good for accuracy because it fills some microscopic imperfections on the barrel steel. I used to remove every last vestige of copper using solvents, before learning that I could damage the steel with it. The secret of cleaning a barrel is getting rid of n°2 and 3 and leaving a little of the n°1, without damaging the steel.
Um, not exactly, but the end result is correct. Carbon is not hygroscopic, nor can it be dissolved in water and both of the oxides of carbon are gaseous. Lead-oxide and cuperic oxide are both abrasive. Passing something over that with high pressure and speed will erode (as compared to corrode) the underlaying substrate. It will definitely damage the barrel given enough abuse. Pure copper, left exposed to air, will oxidize as evidenced by the gigantic bronze statue in NY Harbor. Unless you're frequently shooting cast lead bullets in your rifle, you're not likely to have any significant lead fouling, unlike 22LR where you have nothing but lead fouling.
@@Lacquerhead-TX that's legitimately interesting information! 👍
I use big cotton bore swabs & a Otis Rip Cord. I use Slip 2000 degreaser, cleaner or Simple Green(if short on cleaner). Then I run a few swabs of gun oil, Slip 2000 EWL or a lubricant. I'd say a decent non toxic, CLP should do fine. I'd add older ammonia or harsh fume 🤭 bore solvents are not really required in 2021.
@@Lacquerhead-TX by “carbon” I meant gunpowder. Even though smokeless gunpowder does not attract moisture as black powder, it is hygroscopic, specially if it’s a single-base nitrocellulose propellant.
Interesting point about erosion, never heard of it happening to barrels. I’ll research about it.
I bought an used .38 carbine and the accuracy was pretty bad. Sure enough, a bore scope showed me a lot of lead fouling (I’m guessing the previous owner had the habit of shooting lead Bullets going too fast). It was probably the only time I used a iron brush on any barrel. The gains in accuracy were great though.
@@VincitOmniaVeritas7 Next time, don't use steel. Find a 99.99% pure copper pot scrubber. You can buy them. I wrapped the copper scrub material around a nylon bore brush. It's difficult to push through the bore, but it worked. A little Hoppes helped as well. Used 10/22 allegedly owned by a police officer. And yes, fired cheap, translate bulk, Remington Thunderbolts. Never again. I got a piece lead out about 1 1/2 inches long, 1/8 inch wide or more, and 1/64 inch thick near the chamber.
As for me I like to clean and inspect each firearm after each use since I don't know when I will be shooting that firearm again. I would rather store it and know that it has been cleaned and lubricated prior to putting it away.
Tim at military arms channel just came out with video on this topic. He says not to over clean and only use nylon brush. I think he meant mostly for precision guns though.
Chad at school of the american rifle says not to use brass brush unless very dirty. And not to scrape at bcg with metal. It will affect tolerances eventually.
What's there options on me using old hoodie string in pitch 😂
To turn in our M4s and M16s all we had were brass brushes and told to scrape the carbon off. I think there is no one right way to clean but the key is to not get carried away.
@@americanmilitiaman88 And that's why all the M4s and M16s wear out prematurely. Over-cleaning is an issue.
SOTAR Chad, is the man. I trust his word on all things AR.
Shooting will affect tolerances eventually…
I was just wondering about this yesterday, thanks fellas!
I do appreciate these videos and tips from Brownells
I always loved the Remington Sqee-g system. I wish it would come back.
Informative videos as usual. 👍
Another great video! Thank you, guys!!!
Thanks for the great information. Here lately I've been keeping it simple. I use Ballistol as my solvent then clean with a bore snake followed by a patch around the brush of the bore snake. Seems to get the job done in a way that doesn't damage the barrel.
I used to have a fiberglass rod that ran smoothly through the bore with a brush or patch on the end.
@IronAndYarn That's great. It definitely works for me.
I like Ballistol 🇩🇪 but for barrels, cleaning I use a gun oil or lube about 80-90% of the time. Slip 2000 EWL or Froglube Extreme. 🐸 As time goes by I lean more towards the Slip 2000 line of gun care items. No odors, no fumes. 🤭
Love this series....
I so appreciate your videos!
This video left me with more questions than answers.
In 40 some years of shooting I have never ruined the accuracy of a weapon by cleaning it. And this includes muzzle loaders and Marlin model 60 .22's or my lever actions that I clean from the front of the barrel. And I clean my guns every time I shoot them. I just can't put a dirty gun away lol. Especially rimfire or black powder guns because they tend to get dirty pretty fast. I will admit with a centerfire rifle or handgun they are pretty clean after shooting them and it doesn't take much to clean it but I do it anyway. I still want to do a quick cleaning and inspection after shooting a gun for my own piece of mind.
Depends on. a lot of factors , putting the wrong “ cleaner” solvents into a chrome/moly barrel can dissolve the chrome moly ,
Very informative Thanks
I appreciate their cautionary word on ammonia-based solvents, that's a very important point to consider with anything made of ferrous metals (might tarnish brass as well). I simply wish they had mentioned ammunition with corrosive primers, a.k.a. that sweet sweet surplus light ball. Bores should be cleaned every time one fires that stuff, as it leaves corrosive salts behind- primarily ammonia, go figure.
I frequently use plain old boiling water to dissolve and flush out salts, same as the black powder guys do. Although their entire powder charge is corrosive, not just the primer! If If I'm lazy, I have a couple of c.l.p./'all-in-one' cleaners like Ballistol that are alkaline enough to prevent corrosion on their own.
P.S. I should have clarified that not all surplus is corrosive, so it definitely pays to do some research on what you've got when acquiring new old ammo!
if its pre 90s or comes in a spam can its going to be corrosive. if unsure assume it is
For black powder I use soap and water and wipe dry and add a coat of light oil .
@@txrick4879 lots of old timers used windex to clean after shooting corrosive ammo and or isopropyl alcohol!!!
thank for that info it was very useful and it helped answer some questionable questions
Thank you for the video! I always clean my 22 after shooting, with just hoppes 9 bore Cleaner and a jag, and finish it off with a light application of 9 oil on a patch. 👍nothing fancy but for a stainless barreled 22 it gets it spotless. 😀👍
I started cleaning my bp guns with Ballistol. After a while, I added in a few modern guns to see how they did. Now, all my firearms are cleaned only with it. If it’s good for Hickock45 and the German Army in the trenches of WWI, it’s good now. Non toxic, but stinks. I use a carbon fiber cleaning rod with brass jags. Brass brush occasionally. T-shirt squares.
Ballistol just plain works, and makes it all so much simpler.
I use Otis pull cord cleaning kits for all my guns ..One pass with the brass brush. One pass with a wet mop. One pass with a wet patch.. dry patches until they come out clean. Followed by one last wet patch for storage. I use Slip 2000 lube and have cleaned all my firearms this way since I started collecting guns a few years back.. still no rust or anything like that. However I do keep my guns in a humidity controlled gun safe so rust/moisture corrosion is non existent for me.
Also if I haven’t shot one of my guns for about 6 months I take it out and give it a wipe down and lite coat of oil just for storage purposes
My takeaway from cleaning guns is this. Everyone has a method or special order to how they do it. Everyone cleans guns differently. Using different solvents/oils ect. Just find something that works for you. Any good CLP will work just fine. Clean what’s dirty. Throw a little oil on it. Boom done
Brownells offers felt cleaning pellets which fit on a jag or slide onto flexible rods, for additional safe cleaning options.
I use acetone soaked patches, after using copper solvents. I then move to a light oil for preservation. The acetone, will strip the bore of all chemicals, and oils. Also a good idea if you're going to be mixing/switching to different bore cleaners. I use brass rods, over steel, as they won't scratch up a bore as easily.
1) Soak my barrel real good with hoppe's 9, let it sit for 10 minutes. 2) Run a brass brush through the barrel a few times or more toward the muzzle, depending on how many rounds. 3) Run cotton patches soaked in balistol through it until patch comes out clean. Done.
Heard hoppes destroys brass brushes, have you had that issue?
Why is everyone talking about brass brushes? All bore brushes I have found are bronze-based.
@@adammathers4879 Brass and bronze CAN be the same thing. Bronze usually refers specifically to "red" brass which is 83% copper by volume. Brass can be either red brass or "yellow" brass (or other), which is 51% copper by volume (using zinc as the primary replacement metal in the alloy). Thus, all bronze is brass, but not all brass is bronze. At least this is true in the plumbing world...I left out all the forms of bronze that can vary (silica bronze FE). Bronze and brass both have a multitude of variations. Neither term is specific in and of itself. Definitions and recipes for both alloys are innumerable....
@@jfal104 Man, you just enlightened me, big time! Seriously. Thanks for the info.
@@antoniodelrio1292 You're welcome!
I just have S&W pistols, semi autos and one revolver. I have the kit with brass brushes. The problem seems to be the devices that hold the cloth are a pain. So I use the brush and wrap the cloth patch around the brush in the same direction as I rotate it when cleaning. It stays in place well. Two times very wet with solvent and allow to soak, the use new patches as required until clean.
Hoppe`s #9 gun bore to start. #9 oil if next use is soon. CLP leaves a semi permanent protection. for longer storage. I used it on a tool that got wet and rusted and it has stayed rust free two years now.
I have a long "string type" I used for 177 cal pellet gun. Should work for 22 also.
Food vacuum storage are good for ammo and pistols/revolvers that see infrequent use.
If you can disassemble a long gun, it should work for that also.
I just use Ballistol. Seems to do a good job keeping everything shiny. Only brass brushes, and bore snakes for long guns. Mobil 1 red synthetic grease keeps an M1a running smoothly. Old cut up flannels to wipe down.
You remind me of the time, back in '75 at Marine Corps OCS, when we were cleaning our M14s for Battalion CO's inspection, when the Sgt Instructor came into the barracks with a power drill to punch the bores...
In the modern USMC (2013-21) my buddies and I called that a “dog and pony show”. Maybe that’s more of that classic USMC jargon?
Doesn’t matter how much sense it makes, if it’s stupid or not, even damaging or destructive, or if it really is good. Looks good, smells good…”must be good”. Dog and Pony show.
Something that always annoyed me with the Marine Corps. We’d have the guys that could just about light a match with a bullet at hundreds of yards but that didn’t matter if their sleeves weren’t rolled better or if they had a dirtier hair cut than the Pizza Box shooters.
@@JT-yz4rj In my day, 'Dog and Pony Shows' referred to managed tours. This was simply one of the final inspections of the OCS course. Same general thought, though.
This was a good one. Thanks guys
Great video!
Thanks for the info
I learned using KG-12 solvent using patch over nylon brush. You may also start with KG-1.
With the AK I rinse the barrel out with pure ammonia as I run dirty cheap surplus ammo and oil it up with some sythetic 10W-30. I shoot every weekend and clean it about 3-4 times a year. Rifling looks awesome still after many rounds and decades of issued brushes. The only difference is back in the 1980s sythetic was not a thing so I used regular 10W-30. 40 years of regular use out of a rifle that was old when I got it speaks volumes. 5-6 inch groups at 100 yards with optics. I'm happy with it.
Off of the bore, I have worked on more guns ruined by either overly zealous disassembly or neglect than I have shooting. Yes, I've seen a few guns shot to pieces in my time, but not many.
Barrels wear out quicker than people think
I found my Henry 22 barrel got scored using a Hoppes cleaning rod. I had done a complete take down after my last range shoot and when I looked through the barrel from the chamber end I could see scratches down the length of it. I switched over to a bore snake and tossed the Hoppes stuff in the trash. Thankfully the Henry is still dead accurate, but still ticked about the scratches.
I clean my barrels every couple hundred rounds or so depending on the gun but you guys definitely gave me some things to consider and think about. I was never a fan of rods. I use bore snakes for all of my guns. Im gunna be watching my cleaning products a lot closer now.
How do you clean your bore snake when it’s dirty after cleaning weapons?
@@NgJackal1990 never thought about that. When my bore snakes get so fouled up I think its hindering rather than helping I just get a new one. That may not always be an option though. Definitely food for thought. Maybe a simple green solution with a dash of isopropyl alcohol? Next time I replace one ill play with cleaning the fouled one.
@@bootleg1514 thanks
@@bootleg1514 dawn dish soap handwash and a good rinse then hang dry
No bore isn't damaged or worn by brass brushes. With solvent removal of existing copper & lead from bullets makes rifle bore clean and shinny, with light coat of oil will extend bore life
It is that simple...
When I do use cleaning rods. I use brass rods with bore guides. For light cleaning I use boresnakes.
Fiberglass rods and cupper brush and a 17 caliber on a 22 rifle is the perfect combination
I use Balistol and a bore snake. I use the same bore snake for a .22, .223 and even a .270. Seems to work fine.
My dad always taught me to clean a 22 LR with a brass brush, one pass from breech to muzzle, then soak the bore with G96 brand gun treatment for a minute or two, then pull three cotton patches from breech to muzzle and it would work very well for the target rifles we were shooting. ( Dirtier rifles just require a little more work but same process )
Military rifles are at times like mausers etc. encountered that in the past were cleaned from the muzzle end that destroyed the crown. Today always clean from the breech and if cleaning from the muzzle end take care to not damage the crown.
Excellent info!, Ever since I started cleaning starting from the chamber out the muzzle end, I’ve had better results and I was told it’s less wear on the muzzle end in your older firearms/milsurps, it’s tedious but I’m much happier with the end results. That being said, is it that true? I have no idea. I just know I tend to get more gunk cleaned this way vs the traditional method.
This is the correct way to clean the barrel. Clean the barrel the way the rounds move down the barrel.
Ya gotta love that synchronized swig!!! ✊
I've used Sweet's for a whole bunch of years(must be 30 some odd by now) and have not had a single issue and all my guns are as accurate as they ever were or better in a couple cases, I use brushes (other than nylon ones )very sparingly, I first use just good old Hoppe's 9 to get powder filling and basic yuk out of the barrel then dry patch and then a patch or 2 with sweet's and if it shows no sign of copper (it turns blue) I stop, then dry patch and follow that with a patch well wetted with a thin oil such as rem oil or ballistol or even CLP something like that to protect and neutralize any cleaners that were used and I let it soak for a few minutes to do it's job on all the cleaners , then I dry the barrel after that and it's done, I don't let the barrels "wet" while in the safe in storage and I have never had a single issue in 40+ years (I do the outside and action of the guns the same basic way other than a tiny bit of the proper kind an amount of lube where need be), and yes I do use bore guides where needed and also use JB's bore bright every so often for an extra deep cleaning (also to be done sparingly because overuse of it can and does polish away micro amounts of actuall metal over time and heavy use), a good quality ceaning rod is a must, those multi section screw together types are ok for light occasional cleaning in a range bag or on the go bag, but at home you need to have a high quality one piece rod of proper sizing for the gun being cleaned, guns are an investment and paying outrequired $'s to use proper and high quality cleaning equiptment to maintain it is well worth it, it makes me cringe when some guy is here on youtube making a video about how to use karosene, or motor oil, diesel or some other concoction blend of whatever, with old Tshirts patches (not so bad but proper patches are CHEAP) and shoving it down the barrel with one of the cheap garbage hoppe's multi section aluminum rods, or a wire coat hanger or some crap like that to clean and lube his Les Bear or other high end expensive gun to "save money" on proper cleaning supplies, spend a bit on good cleaning gear and it will reward you ten fold.
I've been kind of curious on this one myself, especially with the brass brushes.
Excellent (as usual) but I do have a question - brushing "both ways." On my Ruger Hawkeye LRT, I follow the online "advice" and ONLY run the brush breech-to-muzzle then unscrew and repeat. Probably a half dozen strokes before patch with solvent and patches until clean/dry. IS there an accuracy issue when pulling the bore brush back through the bore? Can it really affect the muzzle crown enough to worry about? I can see a bronze brush MAAAAYYYYBE having more of an effect than nylon but is it real? With my 1911, I really don't care as my practice ranges run from 5 - 10 yards.
My son and I shot indoor rimfire for a few years and we didn't clean after every match. We just didn't need to. Good video!
Helpful, thanks
Thank you!
Thanks Guys.
Did not know these points thank u
I've cleaned my guns the same way for most of my life. Well until the boar brush came out or bore snake whatever the hell it's called. I use hoppes #9 for cleaning every part of the firearm unless the boar is real real fouled and then I will hit it with some powder blast. I use a bore snake now as opposed to a sectioned rod. I go One direction with it every time. That's worked for me and every firearm I've had my entire life. Like I said except for when the bore snake came out prior to that I used the rods with the appropriate sized copper bristled bore brushes. Thank you for yet another excellent video. And as always God bless and stay safe.
I use Ballistol wet patches on the plastic tip of a caliber specific guide rod followed by dry patches until it looks ok. For me Ballistol is by far the best and chemical-free oil.
I am amazed to see the .22 rifle you displayed for this video. I have been looking for one of these old Mossberg/Western Fields for decades in order to replace the cracked bolt on my childhood rifle ( of the same type) that belonged to my grandfather. It's all I have of him and I want to keep the old gun shooting for my grandkids. Any ideas?
Find a good welder that's competent. He can repair it.
I clean my barrel with Seal1 CLP, if you have not tried this cleaning product yet you absolutely NEED to give it a try! I brush out the barrel ~5 times with Seal1, patch until dry, and done.
Coated Dewey rod, JPE Bore guide, Bore Tech Eliminator solvent, and nylon brush. My ARs get a full barrel clean about every 500-1000 rounds, or when my accuracy drops. AR BCG get cleaned after every shoot, followed by a couple passes through the barrel with a bore snake, to remove any excess carbon fouling. I finish with a patch of Break-Free CLP down the bore, followed by a dry patch.
I have a mini14 SS haven’t clean it for 30 years until that one day. About an hour on the barrel until I was getting clean patches out
I'm with you guys, as long as your not cleaning with a steel brush or rod, I don't think you are going to damage the rifling. However I do know from experience how harsh some of those gun cleaners and solvents can be so you should be cautious of that. I don't think I damaged any of my bores from cleaning but I have stripped some hydro dip camo paint off of one of my shotguns using gun scrubber. Luckily it was a gun that was given to me and I don't like it that much either, but I still have plans to restore it.
I started using a bore snake and with the shooter lube solvent and lube. But right now I just have a 9 mm pistol and an AR.
Carburetor cleaner works great for stubborn jobs. Just be sure to oil everything up good after you are done.
My Cz 83 I clean the chamber with a steel wire brush and copper brush on the rest of the barrel. I use Remington oil.
This video was a little too basic, but it was well understood for the new gun owners. Back in my day of shooting National competition at Camp Perry back in 1968-'69. I shot an Anschutz Match rifle built on the Model 54 action. I used a Teflon coated Parker Hale rod, with a Parker Hale Style Cleaning Jag which were hold overs from the Black Powder Days as they are designed to use Bulk Cotton that you purchase from the pharmacy store. Plus I shot Eely Red ammunition, back in those days it was a hole lot less expensive. The story were were told was that a single pass of a rod down the barrel was equal to 5 shots fired. The hardest part in cleaning a tight precision 22 caliber barrel was getting the wax out.
There are composite cleaning rods....Tipton for one. Also recommend Ballistol as a cleaning agent.
Beautiful old Mossberg!
After shooting my firearms I just run a couple of patches with a good gun oil down the bore and then a few to dry it out. I do this to remove powder fouling that can draw moisture and cause rust. When I start seeing the accuracy going South I give it a good cleaning. But that's just the way I do it.
Bore snake and hoppies 9 solvent is what I use that and rem oil for the finish
Excellent video! A request please. My knowledge base on nitride coated barrels is not what I would like it to be. I am familiar with the coating, but not with its performance inside barrels. Accuracy, lifespan, does it resist barrel burners like the 220 swift, etc. Please educate a gray haired old guy on this new fangled stuff.
Brian Moore Nitride is just a brand name like Tenifer or Melonite. This type of coating is a hard outer shell over the steel called nitro carburizing. It makes the steel or in some cases heat treated MIM (metal injection molding) parts harder than it might be otherwise and it resists corrosion and wear. Chrome lining does the same sort of thing but chrome allows for a slicker surface so there is less fouling. If say you have a Ackley Improved or AI rifle that is a barrel burner because of the hot loads it is made to shoot then a bull or heavy barrel (slows heat transfer by thickness) combined with nitro carburizing or properly chrome lined should extend the life of the bore. But being an AI hot caliber assuming that AI loads are used instead of standard loads, it will still have much less life than standard calibers. Some shooters don't go to the extra trouble and expense so when the barrel wears out they just replace it and it might be cheaper that way in the long run.
Hoppe's boresnake is my go to with their solvent and oil. Never knew about the ammonia based solvent so I wonder if Hoppe's uses it in their solvent.
I heard hoppes 9 has a small amount of ammonia. But, also includes a chemical that neutralizes the corrosion aspect. Some people have used hoppes 50+ years.
Yes Hoppe's does use some ammonia in their solvent. I wouldn't worry too much about it. If you are just go on to Amazon and order break free CLP. Ammonia free.
Regular Hoppe's, no. But their copper remover does. Just about every thing labeled specifically as a copper remover has ammonia in it. Also Shooters Choice and Tipton solvents have a little ammonia in them, and maybe Bore Tech too, but I'm not sure on that one. Shooter's Choice is my favorite bore solvent outside of MPro-7 which I use most of the time. I haven't had any issues as a result of using it other than it will eat up a bronze brush after a few cleaning sessions. Sweet's 7.62 Copper Remover is an ammonia based gel that you don't let sit in your barrel for too long. After using Sweet's or any other copper-specific solvent, it's a good idea to flush some hot water through the bore or clean it out with MPro-7.
Bores snakes are game changers. Especially for those quick, after the range jobs. I only have one precision rifle and I am more careful with that one. But with the milsurps, ARs & shotguns and revolvers I use MC-7 and boresnakes.
Hopps 9 does NOT have ammonia in it! That’s nuts, it’s been cleaning barrels for over 100 years by literally every gun owner in America and has NEVER been accused of etching a barrel.
When I was in the army we cleaned our gun every time it was outside, used or not. It was same vintage as me so by the time I got it it was cleaned more often than I had showers. Still could knock down targets 200m no problem.
Chrome lined bore, the exception in this case
@@ArcChain not chrome lined, cold hammered
3:29 you can slip some heatshrink over the length of the cleaning rod and put it in the oven if you don't want to buy a coated rod
I use bore snakes they are the easiest and safest way.
Hey! Some us still shoot real Black Powder in cartridges. I have been powder coating my cast lead boolits, not much reason to clean if propelling with smokeless in that case. I clean guns shot with black powder with scalding hot water dosed with a bit of Ballistol to prevent flash rusting.
I use a long wooden dowel as a cleaning rod for my .22s. Come to think of it, I use them for everything.
i always remember hearing that " more guns are worn out by cleaning then shooting"
I do precision shooting every time I shoot I pass a patch with Bore Tech.. 5 minutes later 2 or 3 patches is all clean. One last patch with any oil, I use clp to protect before next shooting time. It only takes 15 minutes and it keeps your groups small...
Clean every time I put the weapon away. Never sure how long before that particular weapon goes back to the range plus I live in a damp environment.
Thanks goodm info.
I usually just run some CLP with a patch through on a brass rod, then just wipe it out. Might take like 3-10 patches depending on how bad it is, but I never let them sit dirty more than a day or two. Heavy cleaning's a different story
I use clp and a bore snake and my barrels are spotless but most of my guns arnt getting cleaned regularly. I shoot a until it stops working right then clean it and lube with hopes and on my ars I use gun grease. My carry gun is a glock so it rarely needs cleaning too
First, you guys have a REALLY GREAT program, thanks for your expert advice on things .I was at a very large gun show and I had talked to the Ruger representative and he recommended Hoppe's Elite instead of Hoppe's number 9. I had bought my 300 Win Mag used from a guy at work and I had to ask him how to get the bolt out for cleaning. If you have any better suggestions I would really like to hear them because all I've ever had was a brass brush and the Hoppes Elite.
I gave away all of my hops number nine.
I had Beretta factory techs recommend Montana Xtreme, an ammonia-based cleaner. Montana Xtreme claims it does not damage barrels even if left in for extended periods of time.
What's the difference between hoppes elite and 9? Is #9 bad over time or something?
I think the main thing is to just be careful, don't put any metal but brass or aluminum down you barrel. I soak a patch with Kroil run it through 10 or so times, run a clean patch through, then a brass brush with couple drops of Kroil about 3-5 times, patch soaked in Kroil again, then a patch with JB bore compound, let sit for a bit and then another final swab with Kroil and then a clean patch. Works for me, always get nice tight groups.
I am a real fan of Brownells. But I learned more in the comments than I did from you. I think you planned it that way. Anyway thanks
If you're using the proper size rod for the caliber you're cleaning, the rod will self center in the bore. The purpose of a muzzle guide is to protect the Crown of the muzzle from any rubbing with the rod itself.
Cloth soaked with cleaner until it comes out clean, after the range. I use the brush several times a year.
You also need to thoroughly clean when shooting any foreign surplus ammo made with corrosive primers.
I was a 45B20 (Small arms repairman) stationed at Fort Knox (1973/4). We rebuilt thousands of M16s that I'm sure were ruined by cleaning. The Inspector General (IG) inspectors would inspect the basic training rifles on a regular basis, don't know how often that was. I witnessed a drill or supply sergeant sitting out on the back step with an electric drill running a steel cleaning rod up and down the bore to get them really clean to pass inspection. Wouldn't take long with that to make a bore gauge drop in to far.
I suspect this is the exact reason why you find so many M1 Garand barrels with a muzzle wear reading twice or 3 times the throat wear. You can easily see the rifling smoothed over. Cleaning with those 3 piece steel rods from the muzzle since that’s the only way on an M1.
THANKS
Unless I am shooting lead bullets (not including my 22's here) I rarely use anything in my bores except CLP. Every once in a blue moon will I use a copper cleaning solvent but then it's only when I notice a reduction in accuracy. Even then it's used sparingly and completely removed then a light coat of CLP until I head off to the range, which at that time the bore is dried for use. After the day of shooting when the rest of the firearm is cleaned a few patches of CLP are run down the bore and that is it.
Hmm I never use wire brushes . I always use just a rod with a couple folded over patches and spray a good lube/cleaner on the patches and run it in and out until its clean. I always leave residue in the barrel to protect it.. I never thought about if it could actually corrode it .. I have not seen any issues with my guns yet but the cleaner/lube combo I use is meant to be sprayed into the action and left there as a lube after cleaning so I would think its ok.
You use ballistol?
@@brandonmanley5500 Oh I guess I probably should have said what I use lol.. I use Rem Oil Pro. It is really not meant to be a cleaner but works great and leaves a great lubricant behind .
Lightly clean it when first received to ensure manufacturing didn't miss anything, then clean on occasion, depending on usage... Lube is way more important
Dry phucking is never good