How To DSLR Scan || Scanning
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
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Best mirror demonstration I've ever seen. Thank you.
Excellent video Nico. Take a look at the Klein tools 935DAG - you can level the camera and stand in seconds. I moved away from that for 35mm though and use a Nikon ES-2 with my EOS R (it works with any 52 or 62mm lens). I bought extra film holders to do 6 strips at a time and I find it far less fiddly than leveling and aligning the camera every time, threading the full roll, etc. Workflow is dry film->snip->load holders->camera->negative sleeves. Using a full spectrum light source is critical too. I still use the Epson v850 with Silverfast for MF/LF with the betterscanning holders. That gets me ~2800 ppi, which is more resolution than my EOS R for larger formats, and ICE is nice. Great work on the channel!
A great way is to use a flash instead of continuous light source, you can use faster shutters speeds and that cuts a lot of the ambiente light, and no shaking scannes. I love the idea of the mirror to make sure everything is level, great tip Nicolas👍. Thank you
its true, i use my own installation with compact flash , powered by dc 5v. No shaking, works with every outdoor light
Agree. I tried different methods and find flash to be the best option. I use LED light only to frame and focus properly.
@@mariuszsobolewski6713 Me too. I use a little peace of led strip
What’s the benefit of faster shutter speeds if what you’re capturing is (assuming) completely static?
@@elliotowens8939 First and foremost, faster shutter speed allows to cancel out any (not too bright) ambient light, so there's no need to "scan" in near darkness to avoid ambient light influence on the picture.
3:13 IS PURE GOLD INFO!!! THANKS A BUNDLE
Thanks Nico! One advice from my experience - I have digitalized approx. 20000 negs: it is important to remove dust around your repro stand. I use a duster and I use it 15 minutes before I start.
great demonstration.
I digitise this way though I use Negative Supply equipment. But what is common with all the brands is that the holder only has one set of gears to advance the film. This means that usually the first frame is not advanced with the rollers and has to be pushed into position. Not such a big thing if the negatives haven’t been cut into strips but not fun if they have.
My cheapo setup is an old enlarger base and column plus an LED downlight with built in diffuser....works a treat.
So interesting! You could do a Frontier Vs Noritsu video, kinda lost in which one is better or the differences between them 👌
I use an old durst colour copy 350 slide copier as the light source and copy stand. It has a bellows system that allows mounting a digital camera and an enlarger lens. Works a treat.
Great video! Very thorough
As always, great advice
Thank you so much for the information. Good work! May I know what the name of the second video that process the image and most important the settings between software?
Valoi - crazy prices for what seem to be cheap plastics equipment!!!
A lot has evolved since the video, its currently a mix of plastic and metal parts that go into a VALOI product. But the market it small and runs and not so big to cut prices too low with mass production. I suggest you have a look at other options by Negative Supply, Pixl-ltr, EFH and Lomography. Maybe it will be better suited for your needs.
👍 It is difficult to compare the scanning resolution of film scanners, flatbed scanners and DSLRs. Film scanners are the most accurate, the most manually controlled method is DSLR, and I like flatbeds with their fill light and ICE for scratched film.
Great video!
Gracias señor!
As always, a great video Nico and I love the tip using the mirror for levelling!. I've been doing this for a while and for colour negative film have been using a red intensifier filter (RA054) which seems to improve colour separation. I use my Olympus OMD EM1 mk2 and have found the HiRes (80 MP) mode works brilliantly to digitise my 6 x6 medium format negatives/postives from my Hasselblad 500 film camera. One theoretical advantage of using the pixel shift is that it does away with the Bayer Mosaic interpolation of the RGB info used in digital sensors and gives 100% accurate colour compared to the 33% accuracy of the Bayer process. Not that i'm sure you would really be able to tell the difference but why not use it if you have a digital camera that offers the choice! Looking forward to the next instalment.
Are you using the RA054 filter during the scanning process, or as a filter on the camera lens during shooting?
@@noicemagazine I use the RA054 red intensifier during scanning ( photographing the colour negative).
@@ginovairo6487 Cheers
Awesome video! Do you happen to know if the Valoi 360 works with the negative supply 4x5 light source?
Nice video Nico! Don't you think translating the negative via a digital camera - limits the dynamic range of film + taking away the filmy colors? [p.s- Also, I believe the grain is captured not as nice. like a very sharp sand texture]. Please share your thoughts...
I'm at a point I strongly dislike scanning in any way or form and just want to get it done for a video or for social media (family too). But I havent found the results that bad to think its worse than a scanner or similar. I would happily only print my work in a darkroom but time has been non existent so this has been my fast way to get results Im ok with. About grain and sharpness we could have a whole TED talk for sure.
film itself does not have a high dynamic range. a digital camera will not in any way limit the dynamic range of film and colour and sharpness are down to you knowing how to edit your photos properly.
Hola Nico. Great video! One question: what brand of repro stand are u using in this video? many thanks
Hi Nico,
When you do the software, I’m guessing you’ll be showing software like negative lab pro, but could you give some thought to doing it all in a RAW workflow?
I’m trying to do this in capture one, do the white balance, inversion, color correction all within a full RAW workflow.
You lose RAW advantages when you use things like negative lab since they output tiff.
I just started using negative lab pro. I put .orf files in and get .orf out. ( Olympus raw format).
@@lkj974 That's interesting...I thought the Negative Lab Pro only worked through Lightroom and when you ran images through it, they came out jpg?
@@chilecayenne I’ll double check. Pretty sure it remained a raw file. I was expecting tiff files.
Do you have recommendations for focal lengths that cover 135 and 120 format nicely? In museum environments I heard they use the same setup, but with a digital MF back instead of a DSLR.
I’m putting together a scanning set up and planning to use my GFX100 to do the scans.
For special images, I thought I’d try the pixel shift function and get a 400MP image…I figure I can get close to drum scanning with this…