Yeah, this was surprise for me too.. First thought was, that these blue Philips caps is, probably, toast.. It's rare to see old caps in excellent condition.. But they were made to last.. Sometimes I get good caps in old gear from 70s, and that's always makes me wonder, because caps, even from this century goes bad after 10 years 😂 But ceramic ones can fail after 3..
Great video, thanks. I really enjoyed it. Would it work to stack up 2 of the boards to fit between the connector pins instead of bending the connector pins?
I've never damaged a chip from being under UV. Back when these were the only kind of erasable eproms available, I'd have a dozen chips just sitting under UV when debugging as I would make a code change, then program a new chip. The old chip goes back under the light.
Yeah, I took a look at them, but I decided to keep the more retro LCD look instead (plus the LCD was cheaper, which is a plus). I am thinking of using an OLED screen in my Retro Chip Tester though.
Yeah, I'm too don't replace old caps if they are in spec.. 👍 Sometimes, older caps is made to last, but newer ones go out sooner.. About erasing old ROM without backup, it is bad idea.. I'm always do backup before erase or update - I had bad experience in the past.. Excellent tips about crimping for extensions! 👍 I'm using JLCPCB - good quality too and fast delivery.. Didn't try out PCBWAY, yet.. Anyway, excellent repair video as always! 👍😉
I didn't mention it, but I did take a copy of the old v1.2 firmware. Always backup! 😄 All the firmware versions I've found so far are uploaded to the tekwiki link in the video description for future reference. 🙂
@@NearFarMedia Thanks God! Backup is always good thing to go back if something goes bad.. 😉 From my experience, update one time didn't work.. 😂 That's why I'm always do backup after that.. And erasing chip without mention backup, that's why I was scared of.. Only didn't mention my stomach reaction in UA-cam, hearing that.. 😂 Thanks for reply and explanation! 👍 Waiting for next repair video, because of excellent content!
Why, oh why are you making cables instead of boards? A simple PCB, laid out for all 96 ways with off the shelf right angle connectors is so much easier than all that mucking about. Populate with 16, 32, 48, 64, or 96 way connectors as appropriate. DIN 41612 connectors are easy peasy. If you really really want to do cables then add a 0.1" by 0.1" pad sets (32 x 2) at each end to allow for connecting a pair of extender cards with a normal flat cable by just soldering in 2 x 32 pin headers. So the order on each card is: male DIN, 3 cm, 2x32 header, big gap, 2x32, 3 cm, female DIN.
I used ribbon cables to try to replicate the original Tek extenders. Using rigid extenders would require having the boards angled out at 90 degrees to allow access to the many adjustment points and would make moving the unit around on the bench without things becoming unplugged a precarious endeavour at best. Also it would prevent their use for extending the Option 02 board in the center of the unit for adjustment. The ribbon cables are what Tektronix used in their extender cables and allows for easy adjustment of the unit.
I am stunned those blue caps were still good, I’ve NEVER found good ones LOL. I guess they are a bit newer than the gear I normally work on.
Yeah, I was thinking of your adventures when I saw these ones. :D
Maybe I got lucky with a unit that didn't get too much use...
Yeah, this was surprise for me too.. First thought was, that these blue Philips caps is, probably, toast..
It's rare to see old caps in excellent condition.. But they were made to last.. Sometimes I get good caps in old gear from 70s, and that's always makes me wonder, because caps, even from this century goes bad after 10 years 😂 But ceramic ones can fail after 3..
@@NearFarMedia when do you continue the astro boy Building?
Another awesome video. Nice to see how you tackle each issue. The battery replacement boards you've been making are especially nifty 👍👍
Ichiro! Always informative and entertaining! Cheers!
Great video, thanks. I really enjoyed it.
Would it work to stack up 2 of the boards to fit between the connector pins instead of bending the connector pins?
I've never damaged a chip from being under UV. Back when these were the only kind of erasable eproms available, I'd have a dozen chips just sitting under UV when debugging as I would make a code change, then program a new chip. The old chip goes back under the light.
Awesome, I call it artwork.👍👍👍
nowadays you can even get oled version of those 1602 display modules (no contrast adjustment needed, I'm not sure about their lifespan tho)
Yeah, I took a look at them, but I decided to keep the more retro LCD look instead (plus the LCD was cheaper, which is a plus).
I am thinking of using an OLED screen in my Retro Chip Tester though.
Yeah, I'm too don't replace old caps if they are in spec.. 👍 Sometimes, older caps is made to last, but newer ones go out sooner..
About erasing old ROM without backup, it is bad idea.. I'm always do backup before erase or update - I had bad experience in the past..
Excellent tips about crimping for extensions! 👍
I'm using JLCPCB - good quality too and fast delivery.. Didn't try out PCBWAY, yet..
Anyway, excellent repair video as always! 👍😉
I didn't mention it, but I did take a copy of the old v1.2 firmware. Always backup! 😄
All the firmware versions I've found so far are uploaded to the tekwiki link in the video description for future reference. 🙂
@@NearFarMedia Thanks God! Backup is always good thing to go back if something goes bad.. 😉 From my experience, update one time didn't work.. 😂 That's why I'm always do backup after that.. And erasing chip without mention backup, that's why I was scared of.. Only didn't mention my stomach reaction in UA-cam, hearing that.. 😂
Thanks for reply and explanation! 👍
Waiting for next repair video, because of excellent content!
I'm old, fat, and hairy, but I still pass the specs with flying colors, so I can definitely relate...
Why, oh why are you making cables instead of boards? A simple PCB, laid out for all 96 ways with off the shelf right angle connectors is so much easier than all that mucking about. Populate with 16, 32, 48, 64, or 96 way connectors as appropriate. DIN 41612 connectors are easy peasy. If you really really want to do cables then add a 0.1" by 0.1" pad sets (32 x 2) at each end to allow for connecting a pair of extender cards with a normal flat cable by just soldering in 2 x 32 pin headers.
So the order on each card is: male DIN, 3 cm, 2x32 header, big gap, 2x32, 3 cm, female DIN.
I used ribbon cables to try to replicate the original Tek extenders.
Using rigid extenders would require having the boards angled out at 90 degrees to allow access to the many adjustment points and would make moving the unit around on the bench without things becoming unplugged a precarious endeavour at best.
Also it would prevent their use for extending the Option 02 board in the center of the unit for adjustment.
The ribbon cables are what Tektronix used in their extender cables and allows for easy adjustment of the unit.