Totally agree. A large survival knife may be better when there are kit limitations but a well-rounded kit will have an axe no doubt. I always grab my 26 inch. I find the extra few inches helps out a lot in what I use it for but Im a big and tall guy so that is also a factor in using an axe larger than a 19 inch or so. Loved the video and the information you provide. Thank you.
It's funny to go back and look at these older videos. It really gives you an appreciation for hard work. W has been doing this for years, day in and day out. Many want overnight success, which is fleeting.
I think it's great you took the time to do a thorough review on hatchets. I use one while trapping, hunting, camping, etc (I'm in the North Rockies). Still, I think there is a bit of prejudice against the "hardware" hatchet... their taper and weight balance is in favor of splitting and edge endurance. While the grind you use is great for woodwork or game prep, the edge angle dulls easily. A bit of nit-picking :) Thanks so much for the video.
Thanks wranglerstar for the wise advise. I hear quite often on UA-cam folks saying the "Large 7 to 12 inch knives are safer to use and some of them say their knife cuts/chops at least as well as an hatchet/axe. Common sense woodcraft isn't so common.
Most people don’t live in the remote wilderness, and there are plenty who travel to experience it. I enjoy backpacking, but I don’t have a trail head in my backyard. I suggest taking a trip and going on adventure!
I recently move to another country and I am about get axe. This is one of the most explained video I ever see and the way you care of the environment🍃. I have no doubt about which axe to get and how to use properly! BIG THANKS for share this!
There are 3 bargain-priced hatchets, which i think many woodcrafters and campers would love. The first,mis the Husqvarna hatchet. It's made by Hults Bruks, the oldest axe maker in Sweden, and the steel and forging are close to or equal the levels of Gransfors Bruks and Wetterlings. The quality of the high-Carbon Swedish steel is superb. It is often $45 or less, and i believe it is the best deal in hatchets. The Fiskars X7 is a modern Finnish axe, with fiberglass handle. The head is made of decent quality, mid carbon Finn steel. It won't hold an edge like the Husqvarna, but with its wedge shape, it splits very well. I find the steel a bit soft, but it is easy to sharpen. $25 and common. The last would be the famous Estwing 12" or 14" Sportsmans Hatchet. It's a 1-piece, all steel design with a pretty stacked leather handle. USA-made, the head is a nice thin shape, for great bite in wood. The US-steel is medium carbon, and while it doesn't hold an edge like the Husqvarna, i find it is better than the Fiskars. It is very easy to find, and you should pay less than $35. I personally love the traditional Husqvarna/Hults Bruks, and find it performs extremely well, just as well as my pricier Swedish axes. But all 3 are outstanding value for money, and will last a lifetime of service.
The Hults Bruks is in the same general area: non-lab, hand-held unit testing, but I own 3 Gransfors, 5 Hults, and 2 Wetterlings, and they are all near dead even, and got to R/C a few in a buddies machine shop. My GB SFA was 60 at the edge, my HB Hatchet was 61, and Forest Axe was 59. The splitting axe wasn't tested, but feels a bit softer. Off the top of my head, I don't remember the Wetterlings SFA but it was in the same ballpark. The hardest 2 axes were the HB and GB Carving axes, but neither were 68, (seems a bit high.) As long as their QC is tight, (they have recently had some slips I guess due to increased production,) I still say the Gransfors are the best out of the box axe you can get. If you are willing to do some clean up, sharpening and maybe sand and finish the handle, the Husqvarnas are the best bang-for-the-buck. FWIW, I would like to go back to test my new Velvicut Boys axe, which is a beauty. It's harder than a regular Council, but it is not as hard as a Gransfors. Next time I go to the NE, I'll try to bag a Barco Kelly Perfect to test- those beauts have caught my eye and the quality/price ratio is crazy.
Markus Wincor yes, I agree the Fiskars are a superb tool, especially for harsh environments, or rough use. The combination of the slightly softer, but excellent steel, and the fiberglass handle makes for an extremely tough tool. I often take a Fiskars X7 or X14 backpacking because they are easier to maintain. That said, the beauty of a Gransfors Bruks is tough to beat. Wetterlings and Hults Bruks are close, and with some handle work they can be just as good. The Fiskars axes are so well designed it is hard not to like them- but I love traditional wood, steel and leather!
seattwa OK, I just wa5ched a few videos on tnis hatchet and apparently even tho it's handle is short, 12 1/2", it works very well for small-medium camp chores.
Cody, I would like to thank you for all the wealth of information (especially the tips) you provide to your subscribers. As a , ny suburb, dyi homeowner, having the right tool (the right hatchet in this case, and the proper usage) is invaluable. Every time, i watch your show, i have to pause every few minutes and google the name of the tool since i am so inexperienced. Please keep up the great work.....
Thanks Cody, I've watched many of your video's and always seem to learn something. It's an inspiration really. I come from New York originally and my family and I are now in PA, which is more suited to my likes and personality. I've always found myself drawn to the woods and the outdoors and have recently been fevered by bushcrafting. I love the idea of leaving nothing behind but the nature that was there before you arrived. That being said, the right type of equipment is essential. I am anxiously awaiting my Gransfors Bruks small forest axe. Thanks again for all you have shared.
Sir, you are a Professional Woodsman. So many people come on here thinking they are Les Stroud and they haven't got a clue on technique or safety (or both!). Very useful video about hatchet axe types, grinds, shapes and bevel. Knice to know there are people out there who are both knowledegable and modest. Well done!
Great video once again. I have learned a trick from my late old timer friend (who used to log for a living and spent his entire life cutting firewood) that you can use the back of your axe for removing limbs. It works really well and obviously saves your blade. I bought a thick steel tool (I'm not sure of what it was used for) that is basically a long steel dowel with a horizontal mouth at one end. I wrapped the handle in hockey tape to a thickness that is both comfortable and absorbs the vibration and I use it to remove limbs when chainsawing trees for my hunting tent.
I'm in the same boat, just yesterday I put in an order for a John Neeman axe, they said it'll be ready in 5-6 MONTHS! The boots are my next purchase, my Redwing loggers are about shot. He lives the life I've always dreamed of, and am thankfully now working on achieving, although up in Alaska. He is more of an influence on people than he probably thinks, in a good way for sure.
Great vid Cody, I can never learn enough about axemanship. I, like many others purchased a silly fiskars camp axe and although I don't think I'll ever break it, those tend to be the famous last words! Lots of love from New Brunswick Canada
I purchased a Hults Bruk hatchet before learning how to use one. With the help of your videos and others', I've seen the light now and purchased a cheap Collins to practice using and sharpening so I don't damage the expensive one. I've been far more frugal since and haven't overspent on gear.
That was one of the most informative and perfectly executed videos I have ever seen. I would have thought that this was a TV show. Besides this, subject wise this is perfect for clearing up the difference between an axe and a hatchet. I have a few tools and am not sure what's what, but maybe now I can knowledgeably recognize what tools I have.
The only place where I prefer a large survival blade to a hatchet or axe is when I'm backpacking. I haven't bought into the hype, just watching my weight as much as possible since I am packing in with 3 kids and a dog and my smallest just turned 6, so I end up with a backpack weight of over 80 lbs as it is. And I can get by with a SawVivor cross cut saw, and my buck hoodlum, and get all the work done I need to, for less total weight and less work. Thanks for the awesome videos!
I totally agree, " Thin is In ", I had a Iltis Oxhead 2 3/4lbs German made, with a 5" cutting face, I had it put on a 19" White Hickory handle, everybody told me too thin, but for camp work, it chops, slices, and dices, I had it custom made, and that's exactly what I use it for, for my needs, for tinder, and shelter building, it will out perform any large knife I own, " follow your hearts men ".
Thanks wranglerstar, i just bought an old true temper hatchet head on ebay in need of some work. I made sure it had the properties you describe. I look forward to restoring it and carving a nice handle for it.
When talking budget hatchets/trail axe I love the Cold Steel Trail Hawk after sharpening using your jig and making a handle it was a go to for the trail and my son still carries it today was not bad for 35$ after making sheath and new handle. Though I purchased a Gränsfors Bruks Small Forest Axe as my new go to. (this comment is for those who are broke and looking to get something to carry that you can trust) Love the video btw Wranglestar hope to see more it is because of you I was inspired to do my own handles for all of my axes and many more projects.
Thanks for the video ! next hatchet purchase will defiantly be the Husqvarna Hatchet made by Wetterlings , my current hand axe that i use is a Estwing Tomahawk , before that was the hatchet/ hand axe that started it all . the Coleman $15 hatchet from walmart , but now that i'm getting more knowledge i can get better tools
It's all about your purpose, thick cheeks does not equal cheap axe. If you carry a silky saw....the majority of what you will be doing is splitting wood. The hatchet described will penetrate, cut and get stuck before initiating the split. You want thick cheeks to transfer the energy of your blow to the splitting direction. I learned this by grinding the cheeks out of a hatchet; it did not split as well. If you want a woodcraft hatchet, or have no saw then by all means I would agree. Your true temper hardware store hatchet with thick cheeks has its purpose as well.
Hey wranglerstar! Nice channel! I'm the child of homesteaders trying it out on my own soon with my fiancé. I tip for your sheath if you find the sharp edge is popping rivets, works with knife sheaths too. Use a leather shoelace or other thin strip of leather in between your seam to act a blade stop, and your sheath will last almost forever! With your axe sheath, you might be able to just loosen the screws and slip a strip in. I hope it helps!
This is a great video, & certainly not the first time I've watched it. I really appreciate not just your experienced instruction, but also the approach of stacking the limbs to create a habitat. Thanks for making & posting this video.
Thanks for making this video. I'm going Gransfors Bruks, with a finger choil, smithed by our youngest Instructor Zac Nast, who visited and was taught at the Gransfors Bruks factory. :-)
Note: The hook on the beard of a hatchet has a function. On the toothed 1812 US boarding axe and British boarding axe it is there to be used as a hook to move things like tangled battle damage rigging. For the woodsman it might be handy to move brush so don't cut that beard off that nice old hatchet. It was put there for a reason.
I didn't use a hatchet until I was 10 . I started out at 6 using a plumb 4 pound double bit axe, then I got a Collins 2.5 pound boys axe. At 12 years of age I can swing an 8 pound splitting maul. I appreciate your videos. I hope you would post a video on sharpening a Tuttle toothed crosscut saw, I have a two man 5' crosscut, it has Tuttle teeth. My grandpa says I should learn how to sharpen it. At 12 I feel certain I could survive in the woods by myself for a while, Thanks for the GREAT videos, please answer my questions, Thanks
I would certainly have to agree with this line of thought. I'm continually saying my wife and kids. Use the right tool for the right job. In essence, your making quick work of the job because your using the right tool!! Love the videos!!
Finally, logic! The whole internet is full of people trying to chop down a tree with a knife. It reminds me of the old movie, Monty Python & The Holy Grail when they talk about chopping down a tree with a herring. What a waste of energy. This was a great video. I have used hatchets for years, but found a lot of good advice on blade styling and other nifty tips here. SUBSCRIBED!
i ruined a good mechanical watch chopping wood like you do in video. all my ax handles are self made. out of black locust wood, the best wood for handles, all are straight, lightly tapered, and inserted from front to back,so you don`t need any wedge, the whole handle is so to say a long wedge, the more you abuse it - the stiffer becomes.
Cheers Cody, I wonder weather once sharpened if it were possible to heat treat the edge to help it hold an edge longer. But then again its probably worth getting something like you were showing in this vid.
I have the ESEE junglas 10.5” and a Bahco Laplander Saw and if I was planning a solo trip or was caught offguard, that’s the gear I would likely have because they are smaller, packable and more suitable to EDC. This combo does have a place in the survival/bushcraft world in my opinion. The large knife vs the axe gives different capabilities, so its user preference for the right application.
For a planned bugout, I like the axe and have ordered the GB Scandi, and will likely soon get the GB Small Forest Axe also. I couldn’t decide on which to get so I may just get both, I’ll see how I like the Scandi 1 handed use. If ever the WROL/Bugout scenario happens and the lights go dark I will have the means to process larger/more trees with the scandi and perform smaller task with the SFA. Redundancy/Versatility.
I learned this the hard way by putting my axe into a small stone (in the ground) - making a really bad nick in the axe edge, grinding and grinding to make that edge useable again. Im happy you mention straight handles for axes! I have a tomahawk style axe with a straight handle and it does the job very good!
I should have guessed! :) By the way, most excellent advice about not trying to take down a tree by sheer force. Always always always, let the tool do the work! And you really know how to keep the tool in top shape so it CAN do the work for you!
Thank you Wrangler Star for your videos. Especially this one. I have been contemplating Hatchets; their design, Manufactures and price. My conclusion seems to be, " I'll make my own". I don't know how many Blacksmiths you know, but that is Blacksmith speak for, "I'm too cheep to give someone else the money for something I can do myself". The Lord has blessed me with many skills and a profession I love, Blacksmithing. I work for a Historical town as the behind the scenes man. But I have also invested MANY years into the Royal Ranger Ministry, hence the Ranger Cmdr. Your video has enlightened me as to those things I should take into account as I make my tool. What steel do you recommend? I'm considering a trial run with the leaf spring from my Cherokee. Then I'll do one with the good stuff. Thanks
A leaf spring is usually 5160 so it's a really good steel... If you weld in a bit of harder steel it'll rival all the best axes out there if you sharpen it well and shape it nicely
Ranger Cmdr the 5160 itself is quite good, 1095 is decent as well, but my favorite would be 52100... It will rust faster, but it should get and stay sharper than 1095 and O1... Those two steels are more complicated to heat treat though if you want to do it perfectly that is
by those two I mean 5160 and 52100 are more difficult to heat treat than say 1045 with a 1095 bit... but they will perform better, and 5160 is easy salvaged from leafsprings, so there's potential to save some money I suppose
One criticism of the gransfors grind.. It is thin so it cuts very deep... But it also sticks quite badly in wood. It also doesn't throw chips as well as a proper vintage axe with a high centerline, and convex cheeks, which will bit deep, throw chips well, and not stick. This makes such a big difference in fatigue after a full days work
A survival knife cant' hang with a quality hatchet. A lot of guys have bought into the hype that a survival knife is superior to a hatchet. I have not. I live in the forest. I use these tools everyday. A knife does not exist that can outwork a proper hatchet.
Cody you're a great salesmen without even knowing it. First the whites and the american felling axe now im in the market for a good hatchet. I don't regret a single purchase though, thank you.
I have always been confused as to what a hatchet is and what it is used for. There are carpenter's hatchets and nowadays there are hybrids and misnamed tools due to either ignorance or marketing fluff. Even if someone has trouble finding one they can always modify or improve another tool. Great video.
Just bought a Hultafors hatchet. It seems to fit into your description of a good hatchet. I won't be using it out in the bush...I just got tired of splitting kindling with a cheap one. That old axe head you showed and thought might be cut down a bit may have been made in North America. We did make good products at one time.
In case you wondered who made your Granfors Bruks Axe the initials are stamped on them and a list of the smiths can be found in "The Axe Book" I think that says a lot about a company. Same reason I like John Neeman (Autine).
Very Well done Mate, I am a fan of The Ghurka Khukri as a light brush tool and survival weapon,..although I never confuse my knife to be an ax, even as I notice you never attempted to throw your ax. I knew In advance you were the real thing. Very informative, I would like to hear your opinion on Tomahawks and their purpose with lite camp work and survival,..I find Cold Steel has got a fair selection on light axes as well. Thanks for the Great video.
If you buy cold steel axes/hawks get ready for a project. They come dull as hell with a terrible bevel that will need to be reground. The paint they use is useless and needs to be stripped off, and sometimes you get one that wasn't hardened properly. And the handles are a bit rough on the hawks so you will need to work on them a bit, but if you don't mind putting about ten bucks into their hawks/axes( if you get one that was heat treated properly, and I'm assuming you have a belt sander/worksharp) you can turn a 30 dollar axe in a 70 dollar axe. Oh, and if you do get a crap heat treat cold steel should send you new one.
I was pleased to see your small forest axe was made by the same smith as mine, it speaks volumes that each smith initials each head that he/she forges, Pride in the job!
I have a Gransfors Burks small forest axe,that I like very much. I also have a Marble's # 9 belt axe with the 14 inch handle,that is nice for light work.
This just answered one of the questions that I was going to ask you in your next call in show! "How many e-mails do you get in a day?" No wonder you can't respond to all of them!
one thing I like about your style is the head is wider then the rest so you can choke up on the handle to use it like a knife and it puts the blade inline with your hand more
I really like the idea of stacking the limbs neatly.. Growing up my Dad pounded the idea of keeping a neat job site into my brain. If I'm working and the area starts getting too cluttered I have to stop and organize things a bit lol
whats your thoughts on us made steel, like the true tempers prior to them shipping manufacturing overseas the head styles seam to be the thicker more wedge like but the steel is hard and holds an edge well
just a tip for anyone who is getting into tools especially old kinds go to family pawn shops, the ones that look like they have been there forever. a lot of them will have tons of tools that you wont find on the main street pawnshops. there is a pawnshop here that has 5 draw knives.
I come from lumber country in Michigan and from a long line of fellers and smiths. I'm pretty old now and my grandad taught me that the weight of the axe should do the work and not your back.
As I commented at your axe video, I'll go with Fiskars, every time. They're fairly cheap, about $35, and are very nearly indestructible. They are sharp as help, chop like a dream, are light, and very comfortable to use. Oh, they split well, too.
Love your videos sir. Very informative. Do you have an opinion on the Gerber hatchet? It' made in Finland. I have had it for a few years. It's only seen light use. Seems to hold an edge, and the grind seems to mostly fit the bill for what you describe as good. Looking at it closer after watching your video, I'm a little concerned with the handle and how it attaches to the head. What about the Estwing style, where the head and handle are 1 piece? So many questions lol.
Hey Cody you were talking about the size of hatchets being 16-19 inches isn't that more a camp size axe? The hatchets I looked at were generally 13 inches is that too short? Neeman tools only has a 13 the rest jump up above twenty inches.
Thanks for the vid. I want the Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe. They just look like excellent, high quality tools. Can't wait to purchase it and put it to work!
It's amazing how much information I have learned by watching your videos Cody. I am extremely grateful to you and look forward to watching your videos for a long time. God Bless you and your family. Robert Harcourt
I really like the axe and what it can do, but don't discount the large chopping knives like the ESEE Junglas, now should I get the Gransfor Bruks Small Forest Axe or the GB Scandinavian Forest Axe
you stated to stack branches with but ends facing up hill, there must be a reason and I was wondering if you could share? was it because of the animal habitat that you spoke about right after? or are they just more likely to stay where u place them?
I remember a forging hammer handle you made but I don't know if you ever smith or forge anything? Did you quit or not film it? Or it did'nt happend yet? thanks
It is so Amazing that we can choose a Proper Axe for camping and building fires to keep us warm and cooking to feed ourselves and setting up a tent pounding stakes in the ground, chopping firewood for a week and reserves and carrying it for other multiple jobs alike. If you notice closely at How a Axe is used, it takes a good strong wrist and hand and a strong forearm. It also takes a common sense mobility to aim at something and when you swing an Axe, Safety is of Utmost importance in the process, if not, you can cut off your fingers. Also, an Axe can easily be carried in a backpack or by your side on a holster. And with Proper maintenance, it can retain a good Sharpen Edge at all times. So, with this Classic Illustration of an Axe, On a Human playing field, Old Bitter Resentments of the Past;... Old Arguments of the Past;... Old Untouched guilt and Emotional Scars of the Past;... they all have a Open Problem. An Old phrase of Life in the Country: " You need to bury the Axe ". For One, Forgiveness Opens the Door, because the Door hangs on Hinges, which is common sense to the Soul, and Once the Door is open - Freedom pushes you through... Forgiveness is a Gift from God, and Only He can Open that Special Freedom Door. So, now you know; so just walk right in, and you will find on the other side - a touch of an Angel guiding you to be Restored Clean. Psalm 32 Matthew 5:43-48
Do you have video or know of a good video that shows how to re-profile an axe/hatchet head to be more suitable for chopping? I have a classic store brand hatchet that I love as a beater but would like to make it a better chopper. Thanks!
Just bought a hardware store hatchet because I needed one quick. I really would like to have someone do a metallurgical analysis of this - What's in it? lead? tin?
My interests are for Survival/Bushcraft. Not traditional woodsman work or building a log cabin or felling large trees in a homesteading type situation. This is for light weight packable gear for small shelter, fire wood processing purposes.
I also carry a Coleman Camp Axe, which is actually a hatchet, which costs less than $10 at WalMart. The edge is crap but takes and holds a decent edge. I use it for the places, like the roots, where I don't want to risk my better tools.
Totally agree. A large survival knife may be better when there are kit limitations but a well-rounded kit will have an axe no doubt. I always grab my 26 inch. I find the extra few inches helps out a lot in what I use it for but Im a big and tall guy so that is also a factor in using an axe larger than a 19 inch or so. Loved the video and the information you provide. Thank you.
Thanks. I especially liked the comment at the end about leaving the branches.
+John Carey // That's woodsmanship.
I thought the same :D
John Carey I double that thanks too! Responsible felling.
Do not behave like a crazy hatchet in a porcelain store, haha. Awesome! Love it too :D
I really like that you take pride in your work that has fallen off and I was always taught to take pride in whatever you do. That's the world we need.
It's funny to go back and look at these older videos. It really gives you an appreciation for hard work. W has been doing this for years, day in and day out. Many want overnight success, which is fleeting.
I think it's great you took the time to do a thorough review on hatchets. I use one while trapping, hunting, camping, etc (I'm in the North Rockies). Still, I think there is a bit of prejudice against the "hardware" hatchet... their taper and weight balance is in favor of splitting and edge endurance. While the grind you use is great for woodwork or game prep, the edge angle dulls easily. A bit of nit-picking :) Thanks so much for the video.
Thanks wranglerstar for the wise advise. I hear quite often on UA-cam folks saying the "Large 7 to 12 inch knives are safer to use and some of them say their knife cuts/chops at least as well as an hatchet/axe.
Common sense woodcraft isn't so common.
"Neatly and do it with Pride!" awesome..
Whatever you do, do it with gusto!
You have a good eye for quality.
Yes the bushy end stacks higher. By facing the cut ends uphill the pile stacks even.
I live in a city and never leave my apartment why am I watching this XD
Have you watched any survival movie/series like The Walking Dead?
It's the call of the wild.
Ace because you wise you could have some or any kind of adventure.
Most people don’t live in the remote wilderness, and there are plenty who travel to experience it. I enjoy backpacking, but I don’t have a trail head in my backyard. I suggest taking a trip and going on adventure!
Change that!
I recently move to another country and I am about get axe.
This is one of the most explained video I ever see and the way you care of the environment🍃.
I have no doubt about which axe to get and how to use properly!
BIG THANKS for share this!
There are 3 bargain-priced hatchets, which i think many woodcrafters and campers would love.
The first,mis the Husqvarna hatchet. It's made by Hults Bruks, the oldest axe maker in Sweden, and the steel and forging are close to or equal the levels of Gransfors Bruks and Wetterlings. The quality of the high-Carbon Swedish steel is superb. It is often $45 or less, and i believe it is the best deal in hatchets.
The Fiskars X7 is a modern Finnish axe, with fiberglass handle. The head is made of decent quality, mid carbon Finn steel. It won't hold an edge like the Husqvarna, but with its wedge shape, it splits very well. I find the steel a bit soft, but it is easy to sharpen. $25 and common.
The last would be the famous Estwing 12" or 14" Sportsmans Hatchet. It's a 1-piece, all steel design with a pretty stacked leather handle. USA-made, the head is a nice thin shape, for great bite in wood. The US-steel is medium carbon, and while it doesn't hold an edge like the Husqvarna, i find it is better than the Fiskars. It is very easy to find, and you should pay less than $35.
I personally love the traditional Husqvarna/Hults Bruks, and find it performs extremely well, just as well as my pricier Swedish axes. But all 3 are outstanding value for money, and will last a lifetime of service.
The Hults Bruks is in the same general area: non-lab, hand-held unit testing, but I own 3 Gransfors, 5 Hults, and 2 Wetterlings, and they are all near dead even, and got to R/C a few in a buddies machine shop. My GB SFA was 60 at the edge, my HB Hatchet was 61, and Forest Axe was 59. The splitting axe wasn't tested, but feels a bit softer. Off the top of my head, I don't remember the Wetterlings SFA but it was in the same ballpark.
The hardest 2 axes were the HB and GB Carving axes, but neither were 68, (seems a bit high.)
As long as their QC is tight, (they have recently had some slips I guess due to increased production,) I still say the Gransfors are the best out of the box axe you can get.
If you are willing to do some clean up, sharpening and maybe sand and finish the handle, the Husqvarnas are the best bang-for-the-buck.
FWIW, I would like to go back to test my new Velvicut Boys axe, which is a beauty. It's harder than a regular Council, but it is not as hard as a Gransfors.
Next time I go to the NE, I'll try to bag a Barco Kelly Perfect to test- those beauts have caught my eye and the quality/price ratio is crazy.
Markus Wincor yes, I agree the Fiskars are a superb tool, especially for harsh environments, or rough use.
The combination of the slightly softer, but excellent steel, and the fiberglass handle makes for an extremely tough tool.
I often take a Fiskars X7 or X14 backpacking because they are easier to maintain.
That said, the beauty of a Gransfors Bruks is tough to beat. Wetterlings and Hults Bruks are close, and with some handle work they can be just as good.
The Fiskars axes are so well designed it is hard not to like them- but I love traditional wood, steel and leather!
But isn't it only like 13" long? That seems a little small. Maybe something 16 - 19 inches is more usefull.
seattwa OK, I just wa5ched a few videos on tnis hatchet and apparently even tho it's handle is short, 12 1/2", it works very well for small-medium camp chores.
what about some good old spanish style axe¿? the basques are mighty.
Cody, I would like to thank you for all the wealth of information (especially the tips) you provide to your subscribers. As a , ny suburb, dyi homeowner, having the right tool (the right hatchet in this case, and the proper usage) is invaluable. Every time, i watch your show, i have to pause every few minutes and google the name of the tool since i am so inexperienced. Please keep up the great work.....
Thanks Cody, I've watched many of your video's and always seem to learn something.
It's an inspiration really. I come from New York originally and my family and I are now in PA, which is more suited to my likes and personality.
I've always found myself drawn to the woods and the outdoors and have recently been fevered by bushcrafting. I love the idea of leaving nothing behind but the nature that was there before you arrived. That being said, the right type of equipment is essential. I am anxiously awaiting my Gransfors Bruks small forest axe.
Thanks again for all you have shared.
+Chris Aitken Thanks Chris
Sir, you are a Professional Woodsman. So many people come on here thinking they are Les Stroud and they haven't got a clue on technique or safety (or both!). Very useful video about hatchet axe types, grinds, shapes and bevel. Knice to know there are people out there who are both knowledegable and modest. Well done!
Great video once again. I have learned a trick from my late old timer friend (who used to log for a living and spent his entire life cutting firewood) that you can use the back of your axe for removing limbs. It works really well and obviously saves your blade. I bought a thick steel tool (I'm not sure of what it was used for) that is basically a long steel dowel with a horizontal mouth at one end. I wrapped the handle in hockey tape to a thickness that is both comfortable and absorbs the vibration and I use it to remove limbs when chainsawing trees for my hunting tent.
I like the shape and design however the steel is soft.
I'm in the same boat, just yesterday I put in an order for a John Neeman axe, they said it'll be ready in 5-6 MONTHS! The boots are my next purchase, my Redwing loggers are about shot. He lives the life I've always dreamed of, and am thankfully now working on achieving, although up in Alaska. He is more of an influence on people than he probably thinks, in a good way for sure.
"And all that you do in the woods, do it neatly and with pride."
Reliable info from a good steward is why I always watch your videos.
Great vid Cody, I can never learn enough about axemanship. I, like many others purchased a silly fiskars camp axe and although I don't think I'll ever break it, those tend to be the famous last words! Lots of love from New Brunswick Canada
I purchased a Hults Bruk hatchet before learning how to use one. With the help of your videos and others', I've seen the light now and purchased a cheap Collins to practice using and sharpening so I don't damage the expensive one. I've been far more frugal since and haven't overspent on gear.
I am not a woodsman but I love your videos. thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience
That was one of the most informative and perfectly executed videos I have ever seen. I would have thought that this was a TV show. Besides this, subject wise this is perfect for clearing up the difference between an axe and a hatchet. I have a few tools and am not sure what's what, but maybe now I can knowledgeably recognize what tools I have.
The only place where I prefer a large survival blade to a hatchet or axe is when I'm backpacking. I haven't bought into the hype, just watching my weight as much as possible since I am packing in with 3 kids and a dog and my smallest just turned 6, so I end up with a backpack weight of over 80 lbs as it is. And I can get by with a SawVivor cross cut saw, and my buck hoodlum, and get all the work done I need to, for less total weight and less work. Thanks for the awesome videos!
I totally agree, " Thin is In ", I had a Iltis Oxhead 2 3/4lbs German made, with a 5" cutting face, I had it put on a 19" White Hickory handle, everybody told me too thin, but for camp work, it chops, slices, and dices, I had it custom made, and that's exactly what I use it for, for my needs, for tinder, and shelter building, it will out perform any large knife I own, " follow your hearts men ".
Thanks wranglerstar, i just bought an old true temper hatchet head on ebay in need of some work. I made sure it had the properties you describe. I look forward to restoring it and carving a nice handle for it.
When talking budget hatchets/trail axe I love the Cold Steel Trail Hawk after sharpening using your jig and making a handle it was a go to for the trail and my son still carries it today was not bad for 35$ after making sheath and new handle. Though I purchased a Gränsfors Bruks Small Forest Axe as my new go to. (this comment is for those who are broke and looking to get something to carry that you can trust) Love the video btw Wranglestar hope to see more it is because of you I was inspired to do my own handles for all of my axes and many more projects.
Your pride in your work shows in every video. Thanks.
you inspired me to fix a old 5 buck flea market axe with my dad into a clean sharp and study hatchet.
Thanks for the video ! next hatchet purchase will defiantly be the Husqvarna Hatchet made by Wetterlings , my current hand axe that i use is a Estwing Tomahawk , before that was the hatchet/ hand axe that started it all . the Coleman $15 hatchet from walmart , but now that i'm getting more knowledge i can get better tools
It's all about your purpose, thick cheeks does not equal cheap axe.
If you carry a silky saw....the majority of what you will be doing is splitting wood. The hatchet described will penetrate, cut and get stuck before initiating the split. You want thick cheeks to transfer the energy of your blow to the splitting direction. I learned this by grinding the cheeks out of a hatchet; it did not split as well. If you want a woodcraft hatchet, or have no saw then by all means I would agree. Your true temper hardware store hatchet with thick cheeks has its purpose as well.
The most informative and educational video on the use and design of an hatchet I have seen on UA-cam to date!
Thanks for the education!
Ian.
Great video!! I like how you ended it with reminding people to take pride in their work and leave the place as neat as possible. :)
Hey wranglerstar! Nice channel! I'm the child of homesteaders trying it out on my own soon with my fiancé. I tip for your sheath if you find the sharp edge is popping rivets, works with knife sheaths too. Use a leather shoelace or other thin strip of leather in between your seam to act a blade stop, and your sheath will last almost forever! With your axe sheath, you might be able to just loosen the screws and slip a strip in. I hope it helps!
Hopefully you didnt try it on your fiance XD
This is a great video, & certainly not the first time I've watched it. I really appreciate not just your experienced instruction, but also the approach of stacking the limbs to create a habitat. Thanks for making & posting this video.
Thanks for making this video. I'm going Gransfors Bruks, with a finger choil, smithed by our youngest Instructor Zac Nast, who visited and was taught at the Gransfors Bruks factory. :-)
I love that you said to leave the branches in a pile because it make a nice shelter for small animals
Best video of Wranglestar! Notice the edge of that hatchet? I could see the objects in its reflection: "Mirror" Sharp! That's passed "Scary".
Note: The hook on the beard of a hatchet has a function. On the toothed 1812 US boarding axe and British boarding axe it is there to be used as a hook to move things like tangled battle damage rigging. For the woodsman it might be handy to move brush so don't cut that beard off that nice old hatchet. It was put there for a reason.
I love watching your older videos to see how far you've come.....great information.
One of the very best videos I've seen on you tube. Leave the big knives at home and buy a tool that's designed for the job.
I didn't use a hatchet until I was 10 . I started out at 6 using a plumb 4 pound double bit axe, then I got a Collins 2.5 pound boys axe. At 12 years of age I can swing an 8 pound splitting maul. I appreciate your videos. I hope you would post a video on sharpening a Tuttle toothed crosscut saw, I have a two man 5' crosscut, it has Tuttle teeth. My grandpa says I should learn how to sharpen it. At 12 I feel certain I could survive in the woods by myself for a while, Thanks for the GREAT videos, please answer my questions, Thanks
This is my absolute all time favorite video I've ever seen on youtube
I would certainly have to agree with this line of thought. I'm continually saying my wife and kids. Use the right tool for the right job. In essence, your making quick work of the job because your using the right tool!! Love the videos!!
Crazy watching your older videos hahaha. Still golden content!
Finally, logic! The whole internet is full of people trying to chop down a tree with a knife. It reminds me of the old movie, Monty Python & The Holy Grail when they talk about chopping down a tree with a herring. What a waste of energy.
This was a great video. I have used hatchets for years, but found a lot of good advice on blade styling and other nifty tips here. SUBSCRIBED!
Don't fell bad. I pause a lot of videos I watch to search tools or phrases.
i ruined a good mechanical watch chopping wood like you do in video. all my ax handles are self made. out of black locust wood, the best wood for handles, all are straight, lightly tapered, and inserted from front to back,so you don`t need any wedge, the whole handle is so to say a long wedge, the more you abuse it - the stiffer becomes.
Well said.
Cheers Cody, I wonder weather once sharpened if it were possible to heat treat the edge to help it hold an edge longer. But then again its probably worth getting something like you were showing in this vid.
I have the ESEE junglas 10.5” and a Bahco Laplander Saw and if I was planning a solo trip or was caught offguard, that’s the gear I would likely have because they are smaller, packable and more suitable to EDC. This combo does have a place in the survival/bushcraft world in my opinion. The large knife vs the axe gives different capabilities, so its user preference for the right application.
For a planned bugout, I like the axe and have ordered the GB Scandi, and will likely soon get the GB Small Forest Axe also. I couldn’t decide on which to get so I may just get both, I’ll see how I like the Scandi 1 handed use. If ever the WROL/Bugout scenario happens and the lights go dark I will have the means to process larger/more trees with the scandi and perform smaller task with the SFA. Redundancy/Versatility.
I learned this the hard way by putting my axe into a small stone (in the ground) - making a really bad nick in the axe edge, grinding and grinding to make that edge useable again.
Im happy you mention straight handles for axes! I have a tomahawk style axe with a straight handle and it does the job very good!
Martyn I chipped my Husqvarna hatchet within a day of getting it. Some lessons have to be learned the hard way.
I should have guessed!
:)
By the way, most excellent advice about not trying to take down a tree by sheer force.
Always always always, let the tool do the work! And you really know how to keep the tool in top shape so it CAN do the work for you!
Thank you Wrangler Star for your videos. Especially this one. I have been contemplating Hatchets; their design, Manufactures and price. My conclusion seems to be, " I'll make my own". I don't know how many Blacksmiths you know, but that is Blacksmith speak for, "I'm too cheep to give someone else the money for something I can do myself". The Lord has blessed me with many skills and a profession I love, Blacksmithing. I work for a Historical town as the behind the scenes man. But I have also invested MANY years into the Royal Ranger Ministry, hence the Ranger Cmdr. Your video has enlightened me as to those things I should take into account as I make my tool. What steel do you recommend? I'm considering a trial run with the leaf spring from my Cherokee. Then I'll do one with the good stuff. Thanks
A leaf spring is usually 5160 so it's a really good steel... If you weld in a bit of harder steel it'll rival all the best axes out there if you sharpen it well and shape it nicely
Thank you. What do you recommend for the bit?
Ranger Cmdr the 5160 itself is quite good, 1095 is decent as well, but my favorite would be 52100... It will rust faster, but it should get and stay sharper than 1095 and O1... Those two steels are more complicated to heat treat though if you want to do it perfectly that is
Thanks
by those two I mean 5160 and 52100 are more difficult to heat treat than say 1045 with a 1095 bit... but they will perform better, and 5160 is easy salvaged from leafsprings, so there's potential to save some money I suppose
BEST channel on axes and crosscut saws ever! great job wranglerstar keep making videos
One criticism of the gransfors grind.. It is thin so it cuts very deep... But it also sticks quite badly in wood. It also doesn't throw chips as well as a proper vintage axe with a high centerline, and convex cheeks, which will bit deep, throw chips well, and not stick. This makes such a big difference in fatigue after a full days work
A survival knife cant' hang with a quality hatchet. A lot of guys have bought into the hype that a survival knife is superior to a hatchet. I have not. I live in the forest. I use these tools everyday. A knife does not exist that can outwork a proper hatchet.
Do you have a video that shows how to properly install a new handle in a older axe or Hatchet?
Cody you're a great salesmen without even knowing it. First the whites and the american felling axe now im in the market for a good hatchet. I don't regret a single purchase though, thank you.
Nicely done Cody. Thanks for another great video.
Have you got any good tips for the lanyard on a Hatchet please? Thanks?
I have always been confused as to what a hatchet is and what it is used for. There are carpenter's hatchets and nowadays there are hybrids and misnamed tools due to either ignorance or marketing fluff. Even if someone has trouble finding one they can always modify or improve another tool. Great video.
Just bought a Hultafors hatchet. It seems to fit into your description of a good hatchet. I won't be using it out in the bush...I just got tired of splitting kindling with a cheap one. That old axe head you showed and thought might be cut down a bit may have been made in North America. We did make good products at one time.
In case you wondered who made your Granfors Bruks Axe the initials are stamped on them and a list of the smiths can be found in "The Axe Book" I think that says a lot about a company. Same reason I like John Neeman (Autine).
Great video, it's always a pleasure to listen to someone who knows what they're talking about.
Very Well done Mate, I am a fan of The Ghurka Khukri as a light brush tool and survival weapon,..although I never confuse my knife to be an ax, even as I notice you never attempted to throw your ax. I knew In advance you were the real thing. Very informative, I would like to hear your opinion on Tomahawks and their purpose with lite camp work and survival,..I find Cold Steel has got a fair selection on light axes as well. Thanks for the Great video.
If you buy cold steel axes/hawks get ready for a project. They come dull as hell with a terrible bevel that will need to be reground. The paint they use is useless and needs to be stripped off, and sometimes you get one that wasn't hardened properly. And the handles are a bit rough on the hawks so you will need to work on them a bit, but if you don't mind putting about ten bucks into their hawks/axes( if you get one that was heat treated properly, and I'm assuming you have a belt sander/worksharp) you can turn a 30 dollar axe in a 70 dollar axe. Oh, and if you do get a crap heat treat cold steel should send you new one.
I was pleased to see your small forest axe was made by the same smith as mine, it speaks volumes that each smith initials each head that he/she forges, Pride in the job!
I have a Gransfors Burks small forest axe,that I like very much. I also have a Marble's # 9 belt axe with the 14 inch handle,that is nice for light work.
I carry my Cold Steel SRK for knife work and my Gransfors Bruk small forest axe for axe work
A hatchet seems like an in between?
This just answered one of the questions that I was going to ask you in your next call in show! "How many e-mails do you get in a day?" No wonder you can't respond to all of them!
one thing I like about your style is the head is wider then the rest so you can choke up on the handle to use it like a knife and it puts the blade inline with your hand more
I really like the idea of stacking the limbs neatly.. Growing up my Dad pounded the idea of keeping a neat job site into my brain. If I'm working and the area starts getting too cluttered I have to stop and organize things a bit lol
whats your thoughts on us made steel, like the true tempers prior to them shipping manufacturing overseas
the head styles seam to be the thicker more wedge like but the steel is hard and holds an edge well
just a tip for anyone who is getting into tools especially old kinds go to family pawn shops, the ones that look like they have been there forever. a lot of them will have tons of tools that you wont find on the main street pawnshops. there is a pawnshop here that has 5 draw knives.
Just received the Husqvarna Carpenter Axe. I cannot wait to try it out! As Mr. Wranglerstar would say. It's a proper hatchet.
I come from lumber country in Michigan and from a long line of fellers and smiths. I'm pretty old now and my grandad taught me that the weight of the axe should do the work and not your back.
As I commented at your axe video, I'll go with Fiskars, every time. They're fairly cheap, about $35, and are very nearly indestructible. They are sharp as help, chop like a dream, are light, and very comfortable to use. Oh, they split well, too.
great vid but I cant figure out if the fiskars x series axes and hatchets are good. they cut well for the sizes.
Thanks Cody. As it happens I've been looking at hatchets...and NOW i know what to look for. Great video, as usual.
Gransfor Bruks small forest axe, about £75.00 in U.K., 19 inch handle, leather sheath and in some places, with a free book.
Love your videos sir. Very informative. Do you have an opinion on the Gerber hatchet? It' made in Finland. I have had it for a few years. It's only seen light use. Seems to hold an edge, and the grind seems to mostly fit the bill for what you describe as good. Looking at it closer after watching your video, I'm a little concerned with the handle and how it attaches to the head. What about the Estwing style, where the head and handle are 1 piece? So many questions lol.
Your videos are so true to life and honest! Sincerely thank you for your time shared!
Hey Cody you were talking about the size of hatchets being 16-19 inches isn't that more a camp size axe? The hatchets I looked at were generally 13 inches is that too short? Neeman tools only has a 13 the rest jump up above twenty inches.
Thanks for the vid. I want the Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe. They just look like excellent, high quality tools. Can't wait to purchase it and put it to work!
It's amazing how much information I have learned by watching your videos Cody. I am extremely grateful to you and look forward to watching your videos for a long time. God Bless you and your family. Robert Harcourt
I like that you carry your Axe/hatchet on your belt handle up. I have been doing it that way for a long time myself.
I really like the axe and what it can do, but don't discount the large chopping knives like the ESEE Junglas, now should I get the Gransfor Bruks Small Forest Axe or the GB Scandinavian Forest Axe
"in all that you do in the woods: do it neatly, and with pride." I couldn't agree more. great video. I'm glad I subscribed to your channel.
you stated to stack branches with but ends facing up hill, there must be a reason and I was wondering if you could share? was it because of the animal habitat that you spoke about right after? or are they just more likely to stay where u place them?
Fantastic video. Thanks for all the information... I definitely learned how much I didn't know about hatchets.
Wranglerstar I understand needing a hatchet and not just a knife, but what is your opinion on a Kukri in place of a hatchet.
I remember a forging hammer handle you made but I don't know if you ever smith or forge anything? Did you quit or not film it? Or it did'nt happend yet?
thanks
In all you do in the Woods, do it neatly and with pride. 8:27. One of your best quotes. @Wranglerstar
It is so Amazing that we can choose a Proper Axe for camping and building fires to keep us warm and cooking to feed ourselves and setting up a tent pounding stakes in the ground, chopping firewood for a week and reserves and carrying it for other multiple jobs alike. If you notice closely at How a Axe is used, it takes a good strong wrist and hand and a strong forearm. It also takes a common sense mobility to aim at something and when you swing an Axe, Safety is of Utmost importance in the process, if not, you can cut off your fingers. Also, an Axe can easily be carried in a backpack or by your side on a holster. And with Proper maintenance, it can retain a good Sharpen Edge at all times. So, with this Classic Illustration of an Axe, On a Human playing field, Old Bitter Resentments of the Past;... Old Arguments of the Past;... Old Untouched guilt and Emotional Scars of the Past;... they all have a Open Problem. An Old phrase of Life in the Country: " You need to bury the Axe ". For One, Forgiveness Opens the Door, because the Door hangs on Hinges, which is common sense to the Soul, and Once the Door is open - Freedom pushes you through... Forgiveness is a Gift from God, and Only He can Open that Special Freedom Door. So, now you know; so just walk right in, and you will find on the other side - a touch of an Angel guiding you to be Restored Clean. Psalm 32 Matthew 5:43-48
Do you have video or know of a good video that shows how to re-profile an axe/hatchet head to be more suitable for chopping? I have a classic store brand hatchet that I love as a beater but would like to make it a better chopper. Thanks!
Just bought a hardware store hatchet because I needed one quick. I really would like to have someone do a metallurgical analysis of this - What's in it? lead? tin?
I really agree with this guy. I made my own leather axe cover when I was in Boy Scouts. I’m an Eagle Scout and have been using mine for over 5 years.
My interests are for Survival/Bushcraft. Not traditional woodsman work or building a log cabin or felling large trees in a homesteading type situation. This is for light weight packable gear for small shelter, fire wood processing purposes.
whats a good sized hatchet that could somewhat be attached to a bag without looking outta place, but with the ability to chop and split wood? cheers.
I also carry a Coleman Camp Axe, which is actually a hatchet, which costs less than $10 at WalMart. The edge is crap but takes and holds a decent edge. I use it for the places, like the roots, where I don't want to risk my better tools.