I appreciate your help. I had bought a new motor for my 95 camry 3.0 and I couldn't figure out why it was idling so high and fans would turn on during cold start and stay on, I also couldn't find the the temperature sensor but the harness was there unpluged. After seeing your video, I looked for the sensor on my thermostat housing and nothing wasn't there, then it dawned on me that the original housing may be different and it was, the sensor was there. I swapped the housing to the original and my idle went down and fans were off. Good job, it really help me alot. I had been puzzed for a couple of days.
Thank you so much for that detailed explanation. It really helped me. I fixed a 94 Camry that was jumping and shaking. Seemed like the transmission. I replaced the EFI temp sensor and fixed the problem.
What a nice vedio with nice information, thanks man , you're the best 👌 keep making 👍 a nice vedios like this one , i wish if you own a lexus LS400 96 model with 1UZFE engine , like my car , then you will be the best one in the youtube making maintenance vedios about it . Thanks alot 😊
Been searching for possibilities of believed fuel issues/ stalling etc on my 1994 Lexus 3.0. I have acquired these new sensors recently and will be installing them soon. Hope it works for me. Very Good Video and explanation of how & what these sensors do for the engine.
Very informative video, the best I found so far online. But I am not sure how it relates to my code P0125 problem. My 1997 Toyota Camry LE 3.0L V6 (California model) check engine ligh came on when I re-started car after filling the gas after 2 hours of driving. OBDII says code P0125 (Insufficient Coolant Temp for Closed Loop Fuel Control). Got home and erased code and drove for 53 miles so far, no check engine light, no code again yet. Googled online and found it related to the EFI coolant temp sensor and O2 Sensor. I measured the resistance of the heat coil of the O2 sensor to be 13.6 Ohms (good). I also measured the EFI coolant temp sensor with 3 pairs of readings: (overnight, 62F, 3016 Ohms), (drove 10 min, 182F, 131 Ohms), (cool down to 138F, 340 Ohms). Compared to your curve, it shifted toward left, But I still think it's good, Do you think so?
If the engine is loosing temperature while driving even though it is warmed prior and coolant level is not low or air locked.. the (thermistat) part which serves to maintain proper heat levels in the coolant is not working properly. It would be because the Thermistat is either not closing.. or staying open too far for temperature that it is subjected to. I have heard of problems after high flow water pumps were installed.. Those pumps put so much pressure through the thermistat that they can force the stock thermistat design to open when they are still under opening temp ranges. The spring in thermistats is typically strong enough to hold back "stock water pump pressures", made during normal rpm ranges.. not more than that though. Plan to Replace that thermistat! I wouldn't just waste the opportunity to learn something extra in the process, so take the old one out, put old one and new one in a pot of water (submerged) and warm them slowly till the water about boils. WHILE Using a thermometer to note the temps that they begin to open AND let the water cool while noting temps as each of them closes.. You should see a difference inbetween the thermistats responces. I've found plenty of bad (new) thermistats this way and saved a lot of time by not installing them "untested". There are easy do-it-yourself methods to checking a thermistat while in vehicle. I prefer to start a cold engine and monitor the engine temp by feeling with "bare hands" until too hot to touch then "gloved hands" afterwards. I monitor temps at thermistat housing, upper radiator hose, lower radiator hose, and heater hoses. Why? because.. This tells me when the thermistat is first opening. With a good thermistat.. The coolant stays cool in the top radiator hose till the thermistat has opened, then the hotter coolant quickly warms the top hose followed by the radiator then the lower hose. A bad thermistat typically opens too soon. Warms the entire coolant system all at once before the engine even reaches proper temp. If the cooling fans turn on.. or the vehicle is driven fast enough to cool the radiator.. the temp may drop quite far before the bad thermistat shuts again or slows the coolant flow. Unless the radiator is plugged or covered which prevents the heat from leaving or being exchanged from it.
Great video. My 96 Camry LE 3.0 has an issue where at Cold start around 40F it idles first at 1100rpm and gradually goes up to about 1800 then eventually comes down to 800 rpm after warmup. Also, once hot, if I turn engine off, and let it sit for 15-25 minutes it starts but then stalls immediately. Eventually it will idle after a few tries. No engine codes. Lastly, my car has 4 temp sensors. All in same locations as yours except I have an extra single wire sensor that screws into side of tstat housing. Any thoughts?
I'm having similar issue. Code- P0401"Insufficient Flow.. I have replaced the EGR valve, modulator and fuel filter but still get the same P0401 code. Did your car ever give a code or check engine light? I'm thinking of taking the throttle body off and cleaning the IAC as well. Any suggestions would greatly help. Thanks.
+TheCocreator Although my car says it has On Board Diagnostic II, I don't have a data logger, not able to get a code. If you have a code then my guess is its a dirty Mass Air Flow Sensor, vids suggest spraying MAFS solvent on the sensor, after you take it off the car. Before that change your air filter. Change your air filter see if that fixes it.
To test a EFI coolant temp sensor it compares temperature to resistance, a bad one does a dramatic drop in resistance as temp increases, if OBD2 can tell you that, need one that gives a code for it.
You might even get better fuel economy on the freeway because the engine will stall but at high speed the engine will start up got 55mpg over 350 miles. Yes, my car was made in the introduction of OBD2 and no code is ever generated for this problem, only an honest and experienced mechanic will know this problem.
@@Super6-Four my gas mileage was about 23-24, but I would get 29-31 only highway. I figured the 55 was a mistake and I must have filled the tank and didn't record it. But it was also the time I was having the problem with stalling and I did figure out the sensor. You can't drive a car that stalls every time after going 3 miles, but that one trip as best as I can remember actually happened.
@@2march11 55 mpg is like a hybrid or plug in hybrid that's why I was confused. Would be nice. You must have miscalculated to be honest. Hopefully I get better mpg once the sensors get replaced.
I appreciate your help. I had bought a new motor for my 95 camry 3.0 and I couldn't figure out why it was idling so high and fans would turn on during cold start and stay on, I also couldn't find the the temperature sensor but the harness was there unpluged. After seeing your video, I looked for the sensor on my thermostat housing and nothing wasn't there, then it dawned on me that the original housing may be different and it was, the sensor was there. I swapped the housing to the original and my idle went down and fans were off. Good job, it really help me alot. I had been puzzed for a couple of days.
Wow, this 3 mintue video with no hands on footage had more helpful information than most I've seen in the subject. Good job
Wow! This is good info Sir, I appreciate this info. God bless you!
Thank you so much for that detailed explanation. It really helped me. I fixed a 94 Camry that was jumping and shaking. Seemed like the transmission. I replaced the EFI temp sensor and fixed the problem.
Thank you for this informative video! You did a great job explaining and also included the torque spec.
What a nice vedio with nice information, thanks man , you're the best 👌 keep making 👍 a nice vedios like this one , i wish if you own a lexus LS400 96 model with 1UZFE engine , like my car , then you will be the best one in the youtube making maintenance vedios about it .
Thanks alot 😊
Great video. Learned something new. Thank you 😊.
Great upload!! 👍🏻
Finally, someone got these part numbers correct
Superb! Thank you! Warm Regards from Oregon
Thank you friend it's very helpful
I came here to find the location of the sensor, we got a College degree on physics and thermistors
Been searching for possibilities of believed fuel issues/ stalling etc on my 1994 Lexus 3.0. I have acquired these new sensors recently and will be installing them soon. Hope it works for me. Very Good Video and explanation of how & what these sensors do for the engine.
If your 1MZ-FE stalls after warming up, then you only need "ONE" sensor, 89422-35010.
Thank you so much Sir
Well done video
Very informative video, the best I found so far online. But I am not sure how it relates to my code P0125 problem.
My 1997 Toyota Camry LE 3.0L V6 (California model) check engine ligh came on when I re-started car after filling the gas after 2 hours of driving. OBDII says code P0125 (Insufficient Coolant Temp for Closed Loop Fuel Control).
Got home and erased code and drove for 53 miles so far, no check engine light, no code again yet. Googled online and found it related to the EFI coolant temp sensor and O2 Sensor.
I measured the resistance of the heat coil of the O2 sensor to be 13.6 Ohms (good). I also measured the EFI coolant temp sensor with 3 pairs of readings: (overnight, 62F, 3016 Ohms), (drove 10 min, 182F, 131 Ohms), (cool down to 138F, 340 Ohms). Compared to your curve, it shifted toward left, But I still think it's good, Do you think so?
Nice video man. Really schooled me
My camry 1mzfe the gauge inside shows the temp dropping slowly when driving after temp is at half. Anyone got any ideas what it could be
If the engine is loosing temperature while driving even though it is warmed prior and coolant level is not low or air locked.. the (thermistat) part which serves to maintain proper heat levels in the coolant is not working properly. It would be because the Thermistat is either not closing.. or staying open too far for temperature that it is subjected to. I have heard of problems after high flow water pumps were installed.. Those pumps put so much pressure through the thermistat that they can force the stock thermistat design to open when they are still under opening temp ranges. The spring in thermistats is typically strong enough to hold back "stock water pump pressures", made during normal rpm ranges.. not more than that though.
Plan to Replace that thermistat! I wouldn't just waste the opportunity to learn something extra in the process, so take the old one out, put old one and new one in a pot of water (submerged) and warm them slowly till the water about boils. WHILE Using a thermometer to note the temps that they begin to open AND let the water cool while noting temps as each of them closes.. You should see a difference inbetween the thermistats responces. I've found plenty of bad (new) thermistats this way and saved a lot of time by not installing them "untested".
There are easy do-it-yourself methods to checking a thermistat while in vehicle. I prefer to start a cold engine and monitor the engine temp by feeling with "bare hands" until too hot to touch then "gloved hands" afterwards. I monitor temps at thermistat housing, upper radiator hose, lower radiator hose, and heater hoses.
Why? because.. This tells me when the thermistat is first opening.
With a good thermistat.. The coolant stays cool in the top radiator hose till the thermistat has opened, then the hotter coolant quickly warms the top hose followed by the radiator then the lower hose.
A bad thermistat typically opens too soon. Warms the entire coolant system all at once before the engine even reaches proper temp. If the cooling fans turn on.. or the vehicle is driven fast enough to cool the radiator.. the temp may drop quite far before the bad thermistat shuts again or slows the coolant flow. Unless the radiator is plugged or covered which prevents the heat from leaving or being exchanged from it.
@@craftsmanbyheart yeah will check it out thanks a lot
Thank you.
Great video. My 96 Camry LE 3.0 has an issue where at Cold start around 40F it idles first at 1100rpm and gradually goes up to about 1800 then eventually comes down to 800 rpm after warmup. Also, once hot, if I turn engine off, and let it sit for 15-25 minutes it starts but then stalls immediately. Eventually it will idle after a few tries. No engine codes. Lastly, my car has 4 temp sensors. All in same locations as yours except I have an extra single wire sensor that screws into side of tstat housing. Any thoughts?
Very helpful, replacing my sensor soon. Thx.
I'm having similar issue. Code- P0401"Insufficient Flow.. I have replaced the EGR valve, modulator and fuel filter but still get the same P0401 code. Did your car ever give a code or check engine light? I'm thinking of taking the throttle body off and cleaning the IAC as well. Any suggestions would greatly help. Thanks.
+TheCocreator Although my car says it has On Board Diagnostic II, I don't have a data logger, not able to get a code. If you have a code then my guess is its a dirty Mass Air Flow Sensor, vids suggest spraying MAFS solvent on the sensor, after you take it off the car. Before that change your air filter. Change your air filter see if that fixes it.
❤
Is 180 or 181 degrees an bad ect sensor i used my obd2 scanner and live data or 200-230 bad
To test a EFI coolant temp sensor it compares temperature to resistance, a bad one does a dramatic drop in resistance as temp increases, if OBD2 can tell you that, need one that gives a code for it.
God i hope this fixes my problem. Replaced the ecu, throttle body and fuel pump and my car is still stalling at lights :(
How'd you go?
Do you think that this particular sensor can cause bad fuel economy without tripping a computer code ?
You might even get better fuel economy on the freeway because the engine will stall but at high speed the engine will start up got 55mpg over 350 miles. Yes, my car was made in the introduction of OBD2 and no code is ever generated for this problem, only an honest and experienced mechanic will know this problem.
@@2march11 I've gotta be honest with you how in the world can you get 55 mpg? Mine is absolute trash doing 15 mpg in the city and maybe 19 mpg highway
@@Super6-Four my gas mileage was about 23-24, but I would get 29-31 only highway. I figured the 55 was a mistake and I must have filled the tank and didn't record it. But it was also the time I was having the problem with stalling and I did figure out the sensor. You can't drive a car that stalls every time after going 3 miles, but that one trip as best as I can remember actually happened.
@@2march11 55 mpg is like a hybrid or plug in hybrid that's why I was confused. Would be nice. You must have miscalculated to be honest. Hopefully I get better mpg once the sensors get replaced.